How Does Tikka Bottom Metal Work?

[@REDNECKROOTS]

I wish there were more gunsmiths with your level of passion. Its easy to tell you kno your shit! And you love what you do. Its refreshing to see . Ty 😊 🙏

[@mountaintacticalcompany]

Thanks man! I love what I do. There’s nothing else I’d rather do.

[@REDNECKROOTS]

@mountaintacticalcompany I can sense that even through a video. If I was a tika man I'd get mine built by you, hands down. I'm a Weatherby man , not many options for smiths that specialize in them like how u do w tikas.

[@mountaintacticalcompany]

Weatherby makes a great rifle!

[@P0rtScann3r]

Well done. Thanks for the deets

[@mountaintacticalcompany]

You bet

[@phild9813]

Nice video. I have 3 of your bottom metals and would recommend them to anyone. With the factory plastic “metal” on one of my Tikkas, I torqued the action screws once and felt one of them “let go.” I switched 3 of my 4 Tikkas to yours almost immediately after that. I have an older T3 that I’m holding out on for some reason.

[@phild9813]

I honestly have no idea if they are “old” or “new”

[@phild9813]

I did some looking, they are “old” ones

[@NoNo-yb7ds]

Great video as always ! I love how easy you break things down to understand and visuals along side the explanation, keep up the great work !

[@mountaintacticalcompany]

Thank you for watching! These are fun videos to make!

[@richcotte]

Great info as always!

[@mountaintacticalcompany]

Thank you!

[@1valg]

Awesome content once again! 👍

[@mountaintacticalcompany]

Thank you!

[@Accuracy1st]

4 of my factory contour 7mm cut rifled barrels arrived. Man they are exact. I'm swapping one of them with a guy I already sold a different bbl to. He changed his mind on his build. Now he wants to convert his Tikka 270 to a 280AI. That leaves me with 3 Tikka contoured bbls, 2 in 9 twist, 1 in 8 twist. The plan is a 280AI, 708, and not sure what I'll do with the 8 twist. Most likely a 7PRC....like I need yet another one. Thanks for another great video. You explained a lot. I passed on a pre-owned but perfect left hand blued Hunter in 708 because the mag would not latch despite us properly torquing the screws. It would only latch if the screws were loose

[@mountaintacticalcompany]

Oh man... If you bed that bottom metal I bet you could fix the spacing. The owner most likely over torqued it at some point and damaged the wood.

[@Accuracy1st]

@@mountaintacticalcompany We looked that over with 3 sets of eyes with the bottom kit removed. The rifle appeared brand new right out of the box. We didn't even see finger prints on the wood or metal. Who knows, but I passed on it

[@rosalindstewart7013]

What about a 7wsm for the spare barrel you have, just a thought as it sounds like you already have a few PRC,s cheers Yogi ✌️

[@Accuracy1st]

@@rosalindstewart7013 I have a lot of 7PRC brass and 7RemMag brass on hand. I do not know of anyone making 7WSM brass. I checked Peterson and ADG sites. If someone was making it I would consider it. But then I'd have to make a dummy round where a heavy bullet was seated long, send it to JGS and get a reamer made. I just don't do short magnums as designed. Just like I favor 7RemMag reamers where bullets are seated longer. So, I'd have the expense of a new 7WSM reamer and I'd want to buy enough brass if anyone made it, for probably at least 3-4 different rifles/barrels. Instead, I was toying with the idea of a 7mm-300 Norma magnum Improved which has more case capacity than a 28 Nosler. If I went down that road, it would be nothing more than a new project that simply costs a lot of money but would likely be fun. In terms of practicality, it is really hard to justify the simple 7s we have available. My longest kill was a 202" Colorado mule deer at 800 on the nose. I used a 168 Berger VLD in a 7RemMag, Winchester brass, 215 match primer, 73.0 Retumbo at 3000fps. It was also the heaviest buck I've ever killed. So, with that experience, and the doubt I'll ever do another shot at that distance, I ponder, why do I need more power, bigger bullets, etc.? I don't. I have no doubt a 7PRC with a 175 grain bullet even at 2850 would have accomplished the same thing. All ya gotta know is your come ups on your scope and have time based experience with your setup.

[@Accuracy1st]

@@rosalindstewart7013 I have a lot of 7PRC brass and 7RemMag brass on hand. I do not know of anyone making 7WSM brass. I checked Peterson and ADG sites. If someone was making it I would consider it. But then I'd have to make a dummy round where a heavy bullet was seated long, send it to JGS and get a reamer made. I just don't do short magnums as designed. Just like I favor 7RemMag reamers where bullets are seated longer. So, I'd have the expense of a new 7WSM reamer and I'd want to buy enough brass if anyone made it, for probably at least 3-4 different rifles/barrels. Instead, I was toying with the idea of a 7mm-300 Norma magnum Improved which has more case capacity than a 28 Nosler. If I went down that road, it would be nothing more than a new project that simply costs a lot of money but would likely be fun. In terms of practicality, it is really hard to justify when we have the simple 7s available. My longest kill was a 202" Colorado mule deer at 800 on the nose. I used a 168 Berger VLD in a 7RemMag, Winchester brass, 215 match primer, 73.0 Retumbo at 3000fps. It was also the heaviest buck I've ever killed. So, with that experience, and the doubt I'll ever do another shot at that distance, I ponder, why do I need more power, bigger bullets, etc.? I don't. I have no doubt a 7PRC with a 175 grain bullet even at 2850 would have accomplished the same thing. All ya gotta know is your come ups on your scope and have time based experience with your setup.

[@MyHuntingJournal]

So is the Short action and Long action Bottom metal the same dimensions, minus the magazine opening? Most aftermarket stocks that accept factory bottom metal dont specify short or long action, so would it work for either?

[@mountaintacticalcompany]

The magazines are the same outside dimensions. The short action magazines have a molded in spacer in the rear to hold the rounds forward. Then the short action bolt stop keeps the bolt from coming too far back.

[@stevenbarnes5220]

The TX3 CTR isn't the same as this model. Can you show that system?

[@mountaintacticalcompany]

That’s a great idea! I think we have a CTR stock around here we could cross section. We do have CTR bottom metal.

[@stevenbarnes5220]

@@mountaintacticalcompany Sounds like a plan. Thanks.

[@Accuracy1st]

Rosilandstewart - I have a lot of 7PRC brass and 7RemMag brass on hand. I do not know of anyone making 7WSM brass. I checked Peterson and ADG sites. If someone was making it I would consider it. But then I'd have to make a dummy round where a heavy bullet was seated long, send it to JGS and get a reamer made. I just don't do short magnums as designed. Just like I favor 7RemMag reamers where bullets are seated longer. So, I'd have the expense of a new 7WSM reamer and I'd want to buy enough brass if anyone made it, for probably at least 3-4 different rifles/barrels. Instead, I was toying with the idea of a 7mm-300 Norma magnum Improved which has more case capacity than a 28 Nosler. If I went down that road, it would be nothing more than a new project that simply costs a lot of money but would likely be fun. In terms of practicality, it is really hard to justify considering the simple 7s we have available. My longest kill was a 202" Colorado mule deer at 800 on the nose. I used a 168 Berger VLD in a 7RemMag, Winchester brass, 215 match primer, 73.0 Retumbo at 3000fps. It was also the heaviest buck I've ever killed. So, with that experience, and the doubt I'll ever do another shot at that distance, I ponder, why do I need more power, bigger bullets, etc.? I don't. I have no doubt a 7PRC with a 175 grain bullet even at 2850 would have accomplished the same thing. All ya gotta know is your come ups on your scope and have time based experience with your setup.