How I Paint Things - Stormcast Sequitors

[@timoses01]

Love this paint scheme!

[@Bassmunchkin1]

Yet another excellent video and I think I've worked out one of the many reasons as to why I like your videos so much, your laughing, banter and joking around gives the painting side of this hobby that "don't take it to serious" expression. I was going all serious and slow up to the lines on my first base coats and taking absolutely ages to just get the base colours done on one model, but now I don't get scared to paint, instead I really enjoy it because you've made it fun and enjoyable as a hobby and not a task of something that we have to do, but rather something that we want to do, so as always... thanks millions

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

I see a lot of the time people agonizing over those first base coats, thinking that every step needs to be perfect before continuing. It's something that a lot of tutorial videos seem to encourage, even if they don't stress it specifically. Meanwhile, I'm of the opinion that if you're going to paint something a different colour in a later step... eh, go for it! Start messy, and tidy up as you go - you're building layers, after all! Teri Litorco here on KZbin has a saying I love: "Done is my favorite color!" With a lot of my miniatures you'll notice they look like an absolute disaster right until the last few brush strokes. Don't let your base coats slow you down or give you trouble. Just relax, trust in the process, and keep painting until you're happy with it. If that doesn't work, there's paint stripper of all kinds out there! ;)

[@leckey119]

Brilliant skills and tutorial, has helped me a lot. Loved the silver look

[@alkirkham7078]

Great job. Your right, these minitures are fantastic looking.

[@biguncle554]

Excellent guide!

[@delenn101]

Awesome work. I really love your Hallowed Knight. This is the best one that I’ve seen. Very inspiring.

[@johnkelley9877]

What a great looking figure! It is your best work to date. Thanks for sharing this.

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Now that's high praise! :D Thank you, John. These miniatures are a real blast to paint, I don't think you can go far wrong with them.

[@TheDesknight]

Its a really solid paint for a basic tutorial, good job.

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

I find that taking a little time with the really simple techniques will pay dividends in the long run. Practicing the base-wash-highlight method will almost always churn out decent results without spending hours on each miniature!

[@IDICBeer]

Great job mate

[@saemonnosukesanada473]

Awesome video as always!

[@matthewcairns7666]

This is really helpful, thanks man ✌️

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Glad to hear it!

[@MasterofDoom2006]

Awesome!:)

[@KimHarderFog]

Nice video. Was thinking that it would be awesome to see one of those Stormcasts in the paladin Tier 2 Judgement Armor from World of Warcraft.

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Can't say I know it, honestly. I never played WoW! There's a good bit of overlap as far as style goes, though, I guess - big pauldrons will only ever mean one or two fantasy settings, right? :D

[@KimHarderFog]

Indeed with the big pauldrons ;) I'm not sure if its allowed to do links here, but if it doesnt work, you should do yourself the favour of looking up the Judgement set, one of the best looking models in WoW, sketchfab.com/models/f3eb3183601746d2b150737b956d5d07.

[@brijant]

its looks awesome,for whats its worth my compliments

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Thank you kindly! These are some aaawesome miniatures. I'm not sure you can do a bad job on them, really!

[@XSRainbowDash]

Nice guide! which brushes do you use? I am refurbishing myself.

[@charlieosler9632]

How are you sticking that model to the stick? Very interested in this process, do you then do your base and then (super) glue? them on? Find my super glue is glossy so it shines out. Cheers in advance if you manage to read this!

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

It's really just a wee dab of super glue. Nothing fancy! I do use super glue again to stick it to the base, but only a tiny spot of it. It'd probably not stand up to regular gaming. If you wanted something more permanent, just shave a layer of paint with your hobby knife or mould line remover so you're back to bare plastic on both surfaces, and a dot of plastic glue will stick those together good and proper. :D

[@zeroa6]

Awesome! subbed.

[@doorshq]

This is how I painted mine, but with red instead of blue. The inside of the pauldron I did with spiritstone red over retributor gold.

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

That sounds like it'd look really cool! I thought about green instead, but I stuck with the Hallowed Knights for the time being since someone had asked a while back how I might paint these guys.

[@bushmins]

Hey. Did you put the leadbelcher spray directly on the plastic or did you prime it first? I'm about to paint the tempest of souls box and was thinking of priming with black and covering the model using leadbelcher from the pot. It'll save me some money!

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

The Leadbelcher spray works as a primer, too, so you can spray directly from the can onto bare plastic and get painting straight away. Alternatively, a black primer and a couple coats of Leadbelcher from the pot will give you the same effect if you've got the time. :D

[@Bassmunchkin1]

A question if I may, as plastic glue melts and super glue is what it says, if Im gluing a sprue to the underside of a plastic character, for easy removal reasons afterwards, should I use plastic glue or super glue and to cut it off, I assume just use a craft knife? As my Blackstone Fortress models are click together and their not glued, you've totally convinced me to disconnect them as it seems so much more easier to get to the under sides without the bases attached, we're never told these golden nugget ideas/things when we get the box, just glue the models together, give them a slap of paint and their good to go... Mmmm if only we knew then what we are learning now from very kind people like yourselves Many thanks :-)

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

If you're wanting a join that will come apart clean with a minimal amount of glue, super glue is the best choice. Polystyrene cement - or just 'plastic glue' as we usually call it - results in a bond known as a solvent weld. Essentially it melts the two surfaces together and once the glue's finished drying, those mixed surfaces are now a single solid piece. It's actually a pretty interesting process! You can generally pry plastic pieces that have been glued together with polystyrene cement with a bit of effort, but the solvent process will ruin any detail on the parts that face one another. Super glue's a safe bet, and if you shave off the little bit of super glue residue - say from a foot or a backpack - you can then glue it to another plastic surface using your polystyrene cement as normal. :D

[@Bassmunchkin1]

@@SonicSledgehammerStudio WOW you sure do like to reply completely and many thanks again for taking the time to reply, I really do appreciate your priceless thoughts. As to your answer, it now makes perfect sense to what you are saying :-)

[@sabinekine2737]

Do you have any videos like this on green robes?

[@Fluffykeith]

Have you done, or are you planning on doing, a video tutorial on how to apply liquid green stuff, for all us noobs? I'd like to be able to deal with the obvious joins on the Stormcast shoulderpads, some of them don't seem to have fitted as well as I'd like and there's a noticable gap on some of them. I'd like to fix that without screwing up the model, if possible...

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

I haven't had much success with liquid green stuff, myself. It always seems to run away from the gap I want to put it into, somehow! For the gap in the shoulder pads, I push the two pieces together as close as they'll get, then dab just a little more plastic glue into the gap so that it 'bulges' over the top. Leave it to dry for a while and it'll usually fuse a little messily, but you can shave it back with your knife or scraper and it'll take paint no problem.

[@Fluffykeith]

Sonic Sledgehammer Studio Thanks, I’ll give that a shot

[@TashiMortier]

Ahhh the base looks so fabulous and I don't know what the paints for it are. I'm such an idiot unable to pick any colors :(

[@derspecht3713]

Great instructional video! I'll definitely use this guide to paint my minis. Just one little thing: As of now, Pink Horror is missing in your description

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Well spotted! I thought I'd got them all for once. :D

[@RobertGardnerEngineer]

I love the way you differentiated the cloth and metal. I'm trying to work out how to do the same thing for my own SCE. I'm doing Hallowed Knights, but with Green instead of Blue. My current recipe for the green is base Waagh Flesh, shadee Nuln Oil, layer Waagh Flesh, layer Warp Stone Glow, then an edge highlight in a few select places of moot green. I'm thinking I might do this for the cloth now, and move the Armor sections to Caliban Green instead of Waagh Flesh. What do you think? Also, given a green cloth/shoulders mix, I was thinking purples for the beasts (Dracoth, Gryph-Charger etc.) but I have zero idea how to go about doing that :-/ I would really appreciate the advice.

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Funnily enough, I had originally planned to paint this guy in green and silver, but as someone had already asked about Hallowed Knights it was the blue that won out. Personally, I'd go for a slightly more 'faded' appearance to the green - Waaagh Flesh, Biel-Tan Green Shade, then highlight with Warboss and Skarsnik Green. By comparison I'd definitely go for the Caliban Green on the armoured plates, then highlight with Warpstone and Moot Green for the final extreme highlight if that's where you want to take it. I'd had it in mind to aim for loads of contrast, and that slight yellowish tone that Warpstone and Moot have seems like it'd work better for lacquered armour? Your results may vary, but you're not far off what I'd be thinking!

[@advancetomayfair]

great tutorial! nice work. would like a tutorial on how you did the base as i have the same model :) any help would be great with the colors u used for the base

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

I'll head back and touch on the bases at some point soon. A lot of people have asked how I do them and honestly, they're some of the fastest, easiest bits of a model to paint more often than not!

[@advancetomayfair]

nice! looking forward to seeing the base tutorial. cheers

[@Zillawill]

I have 2 soul war half's, blightwar half and some other SCE to paint and I think this might just be my scheme if I don't go classic gold

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Nice! That's a fairly chunky army to start out with - good on swapping for the Nighthaunt, right? :D

[@Zillawill]

Sonic Sledgehammer Studio I bought 2 of boxes cause my idea was sce and nighthaunt, but with me having a BA British army and loads of other projects on at moment figured might as well split and keep SCE, plus I'm getting into magic so needed some cash back lol

[@briangoughnour5200]

Just started to get into the hobby. I picked stormcast as a race I want to play as. Is there a difference between the gold played vs silver? Thx for any info, much appreciated.

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Hi Brian, thanks for stopping by! The different colours for the Stormcast Eternals represent different 'armies' within their ranks, which are called Stormhosts. Think of them as being similar to Space Marine Chapters or infantry divisions with different patches and markings and you can't go far wrong. Each of them does have a slight difference in the rules, but nothing so serious that there's a 'right' one to choose - gold, black, blue, silver; they're all awesome in their own way, and there's also rules for making up your own Stormhost and painting them how you like, so you should feel free to just roll with what you think looks cool. The basic rules for the entire game are all available in the Age of Sigmar app, along with rules for each of the units, but army-specific little flavour rules like the Stormhost abilities I mentioned are in the Battletome for each army. You can play quite happily without it, but there's a ton of neat content in there, along with lore and pictures of other inspiring colour schemes you can try.

[@stephendavinson4441]

Looks similar to a LAPD swat team figure but use for a Space Police Tactical Assault member.🤔

[@kiwijimi]

Blue steel look? When are we going to see Magnum

[@manshultin6349]

What is your experience so far with retributor armour as far as thinning goes. I'm currently struggling finding a good ratio

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

I tend not to thin it very much, honestly. Just a little water in my brush when I take it out of the pot, then mix it on the palette and see if it comes off the brush smoothly.

[@cptamerica011]

Thanks a lot. What palette do you use?

[@williamwoodward2632]

Please help. How do you paint around the anvil on the Pouldron?

[@williamwoodward2632]

Ah. Thanks

[@MiNDmaZing]

Thanks, but how did you paint the base?

[@tetsuoswrath]

Bad ass. And that base is neat. Good choice sir. :{J

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

These are some straight-up awesome miniatures. It's hard to go wrong! :D

[@TheSnow16]

please celestial vidicators, excellent work

[@thanasisgeronimos9124]

i have a small objection on the front clothing and the highlights...and i see this almost on every paint jobs out there....clothing do not reflect light that much or in this intensity..it looks cool but i think its less ...normal lighting just brings the tone up a bit ...on the metallic parts yes...on some edges the reflection and intensity of the highlight will change the tone significantly but the clothing do not..its like every single figure is having a personal mini sized sun over them to give that kind of highlight...Now dont get me wrong...i will have this video as a guide when i paint mine minis of stormcasts but on some areas i will bring it down a bit..also...if you have the light from a certain point of view some areas wont get any highlight. like the back and behind legs where his lower cape is. Loved the video despite my ''objection'' on this matter.

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

You're not wrong, of course - in reality the cloth would be far smoother. In the cast of most miniatures painters I know, at this scale it's a deliberate style choice to try and make the most of the limited space we have to work with. Painting cloth without using far more layers than I have can take a lot of time! As for the highlighting aspect, I had the same premise explained to me when I got started painting. We aren't putting our figures on a plinth for display, so we can't always guarantee the angle they'll be viewed at. We're instead choosing a 'second best' method of highlighting where everything is lit equally from all directions, rather than having it look strange from a different angle. You're absolutely right that this method isn't wholly accurate, but as a style that tries to emulate the best result from every viewing angle, I think it works alright overall.

[@thanasisgeronimos9124]

Will you do a Sequitor?

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

I'm not sure I quite understand. This is a Sequitor?

[@thanasisgeronimos9124]

the woman with the mace on her shoulder with the face instead of the helmet

[@OldAverageBritGaming]

I love a good Ultramarine painting guide me. :P

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Aww, c'mon... Hallowed Knights are at least Black Templars-level cool! ;D

[@danielgurney8173]

#Taulivesmatter Edit: when every other comment gets a reply by the creator....

[@Omanion83]

just do not close combt with the galaxy police :P

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

It doesn't really leave much to respond to, does it?