How to Apply Pure Tung Oil to Wood (the right way)

Tutorial on how to use 100% pure tung oil wood finish the right way. See list of Tung Oils that are not 100% pure tung oil below. I have seen several videos showing how to do it the so many ways, most aren’t even done with pure tung oil and decided I better show how I do it.
Two notes I did not say in the video:
1 - I only dilute the second coat on very dense woods with high Janka Hardness ratings. On most domestic woods, I go straight to undiluted on the second coat (i.e. walnut, soft maple, cherry).
2 - After the piece has cured for about a week, I burnish it with abrasive pads, then you can leave it like that or wax it.
Link to the 100% Pure Tung Oil I use: www.woodcraft....
Now you can use the finish above without diluting it if you want to, to be green or nonhazardous (i.e. using it on a cutting board). If you want to dilute it with an alternative to mineral spirits use orange oil.
I have only heard of people doing this, I haven’t done it myself. So if you do this method please leave a comment below letting me know if you like it or prefer something else.
Many labels make it seem like you are getting pure tung oil (natural oil) when you are not (synthetic oil), some finishes say tung oil on the label and don’t even contain any tung oil in them. A general way to tell is if it smells like varnish, it is varnish. But if you haven’t smelled tung oil before it can be hard to know what the difference is. So for your convenience, here is a list of “tung oil” finishes that are not 100% pure tung oil.
Common brands of finish that are wiping varnish (not pure tung oil):
• Formby’s Tung Oil Finish
• Zar Wipe-on Tung Oil
• Val-Oil
• Hope’s Tung Oil Varnish
• Gillespie Tung Oil
• Waterlox
• General Finishes’ Sealacell
• General Finishes’ Arm R Seal
• Daly’s ProFin
• Jasco Tung Oil
• Common brands of finish that are oil/varnish blends:
• Watco Danish Oil
• Deft Danish Oil
• Behlen Danish Oil
• Maloof Finish
• Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil Finish
• Minwax Tung Oil Finish
• Minwax Antique Oil Finish
• Velvit Oil
• Behlen Salad Bowl Finish
• Behlen Teak Oil
• Watco Teak Oil
Read the whole article: What the Finishing Manufacturers Don’t Tell You www.popularwood...
Music by Vienna Ditto, “Oh Josephine” and “Whatever Comes My Way”, used under a Common Creative Attribution License creativecommon...
Check them out at viennaditto.com/

[@theoptimisticmetalhead7787]

You didn't have to go this hard on the music my guy. It is WILDLY good. Love it.

[@joeidaho5938]

Pure tung oil actually will not go bad. No need to worry about that part. Linseed oil can go rancid but not tung oil. I think you're going way too fast with coats. Gotta let the tung oil cure....which can take up to a week, between coats. if you let it cure and truly harden between coats, you'll get some depth in the finish. if you just do coats each hour, you just end up with one well-absorbed coat...and that's it. The finish will have very very little thickness, in the end, as nothing hardened or cured between your so-called "coats".

[@aaqilian5.085]

If you know so goddamned much, why you watching this ‘how to’ video? Just to insert your unsolicited opinions? To show how super superior you are? Eat shit, mungo 🖕🏾

[@joshkerr6452]

At risk of contradicting everyone else, I quite liked the background music. Great tutorial. Something I needed since I just picked up woodworking again after 12 years.

[@JohnDoeEagle1]

The music sucked! kzbin.info/www/bejne/jp6sonyMrbqogdU You are welcome!

[@willerwin3201]

Heating up pure Tung oil will also help it penetrate and apply well; you don’t have to dilute it. Deeper penetration does little for protection, but it does make the grain pop a little more. This is the “flood method,” which is popular, but takes longer to cure, uses more oil, and can lead to leaching problems. I’ve had better results applying thin coats and buffing off all excess right away.

[@markharris5771]

I have a slight hearing impairment and heard every word said. And that that was said was extremely helpful to a newbie like myself, thank you.

[@captaincoyote1792]

Unlike some of my fellow commenters.....I actually enjoyed the music you attached to your video. I found it both informative AND relaxing! As a “Type A” recently retired federal wildlife law enforcement officer, and prior to that a career Navy Officer, relaxing is now paramount -and not always easily achieved. As an obviously amateur woodworker, I especially appreciated your attached “pseudo / wannabe “pure” tung oil list! Incidentally, I saw on another video you produced, you mentioned photographing the Organ Mountains. Woo-hooo! I’m a NMSU alumni....spent a significant part of my youth in Alamogordo, ElPaso, and Las Cruces. My daughter earned her Masters and teaching certificate there....and now teaches high school biology in ‘Cruces! Back to the issue.....this video and its value in watching? Bravo-Zulu, job well done, amigo!

[@wam44]

I appreciated the music-not too loud-just right...Regarding relaxation-If you are having troubles relaxing I have been practicing Qigong and breathing exercises for years-helps me...Deep breathing activates the parasympathetic nervous system which tells the body to go into relax/rest/safe mode...Try it!

[@captaincoyote1792]

@@wam44 That was very kind of you. In today’s world, a simple kindness is all the more appreciated. So thank you for taking the time to reply.....and I’ll give it a try!

[@wam44]

@@captaincoyote1792 Hi again-I facilitate free online classes which I moved online after the pandemic started. Feel free to join and share with friends/family/coworkers-All are welcome! Online Qigong & Meditation Practice is offered weekdays starting at 12:30 p.m. CST-link below I also teach Yoga and Qigong on Saturdays starting at 11am CST The link below works for all classes-If you have any questions, please get in [e-mail] us04web.zoom.us/j/9320331087?pwd=TStMZkM4M1RLQ3NEWDZQVk51THhqUT09 Meeting ID: 932 033 1087 Password: 097307

[@jameslouder]

It's a good video, but I have to put in a word to save the newbies from themselves. You may have heard that rags and paper towels sodden with linseed oil can spontaneously combust, if thrown in a heap. Tung oil will do the same thing--indeed, there are those who say it's *even worse* . Whatever you're using to wipe it with, you have to beat this fire hazard from the start. Here are three ways. 1. Unfold the rags and lay lay them out flat to dry completely, or better yet, hang them on a line outdoors. Once dry they may be safely discarded. 2. Put them into a metal can with a tight-fitting lid, where there won't be enough oxygen to sustain a fire. For small shop projects a paint can works well, so does a small metal garbage can. 3. Best of all, I think, is what we did in our pipe organ shop, where we finished the huge oaken casework with oil--gallons of it. The used rags went into a galvanized metal garbage can with a gallon of water and a cup of Pine-Sol or some other strong detergent. At the end of the day, the wet rags were forked out and went into a heavy garbage bag, twisted down, tied off, and set outside for garbage collection day.

[@gamadmex]

Very informative. I've never used tung oil before, so this is very helpful.

[@scooby0068]

An alternate method of air evacuation I found is to drop in glass marbles until you are close to the top before squeezing it and sealing.

[@MrDarylWhitt]

At 3:50 he mentions marbles.

[@crackerjack3359]

I'm using 'Bloxigen' Just spray on top of the oil, paint or whatever and put the top on. Bloxigen is heavier than air and keeps the oxygen off the surface of the finish in the can, bottle or whatever. www.amazon.com/s?k=bloxygen+finish+preserver&crid=368T4S6Z353M2&sprefix=blox%2Caps%2C222&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_6_4

[@farmalmta]

Very good instructions, although I suggest for very tight grained hardwoods that a 1:1:1 tung oil:turpentine:mineral spirits be used for the first coat, then proceed as you did here. Japan Drier added sparingly will speed tung oil curing for all coats. Add a small quantity of pine tar (sourced from equine suppliers) to enhance anti-microbial properties. Note that a distinct pine smell will be temporarily noticeable from the finished piece, and it can slightly darken the finish, so test before applying.

[@magicdaveable]

I use limonene (orange oil) which is technically "citrus rind oil." i cut pure tung oil 1:1 for general purpose first coat but not always. Closed pore wood such as White Oak needs a more absorbent first coat. A tung oil finish on the solid body guitars I build works very well tung oil takes dyes too.

[@Melodysdadvideos]

I didn't even think about mixing it with dyes, that's awesome. The dyes I have used I either mix with water or denatured alcohol, are you just adding dyes with tung oil/mineral spirits? I'll have to play around with that. Thanks for letting me know.

[@czoubek]

The maple in the miters! Love it.

[@Feldspar__]

You can also put water in the bottle to remove the air at the top. It will sink. Enjoyed the second song. Speaks to the true nature of how women approach relationships.

[@xiaobai7060]

Interesting.. this is also how you do an oil painting ,starting with thinned out coats/layers, making them thicker and thicker, with less and less solvent and more and more oil. Though it has nothing to do with wood grain or soaking in since it is painted on canvas or non-absorbent, but rough surfaces. It has more to do with preventing cracking and even flaking with age.

[@ashagon]

Good instruction but hate background music in DIY videos.

[@patricebrowne5115]

Thank you for the lesson.Ditch the background music!

[@stephenzinda]

Yes

[@mattmoores5442]

Don’t listen to these guys. Music is refreshingly different. And good. Be you.

[@sirspongadoodle]

@@mattmoores5442 music and refreshing dont go in the same sentence... its all cardi b and pathetic love songs about how amazing someones genitals are.

[@JohnWaclawski]

Thanks!! I started here & learned quite a bit about tung oil. Almost bought the Minwax thinking I was getting tung oil but between what you mentioned, actually in you comments, and what I found elsewhere, that Minwax isn't real tung oil.

[@joeidaho5938]

My take is that Minwax is to be avoided, on the whole. If anything is to be used, it would be their stains, but never their mixes of stain and poly....or these other so-called finishes.

[@georgecindyaustria4995]

With three coats of pure tung oil, the curing time after the third coat can be longer than a week. It more like three to four weeks, I've found, to finally achieve that hard finish that tells you it's fully cured.

[@elim7228]

I was told to wait for 30 days for any items that come in contact with food. So sounds like 4 weeks is the timing.

[@Madmun357]

I used a tung oil finish on a red oak desk box I made for a girlfriend. I love the richness that it gives the wood. BTW, I'm originally from just down the road in El Paso.

[@Johnwilldo]

I hope your lady friend gives you a special treat!

[@iancrossley6637]

Forty years ago I sprung $50.00 for a gallon can of Tung oil. Never had an issue with air. Still dipping out of the same can. Good tip on diluting though. Straight Tung oil on Teak takes a month to dry.

[@Melodysdadvideos]

I have only had one container of tung oil ever go bad on me. It formed a grit to it. So when applying it to a piece it feels like you are applying a sandy oil.

[@LBCAndrew]

True tung oil will thicken up and turn jelly like if exposed to air like that. A great solution is to get a bag of those glass rocks that people put in vases and drop them in the tung oil container to keeep the level. At the top.

[@schreeburks7137]

I'm sorry but your video would have been better without the loud music

[@rayswoodshop4467]

Nice job, thx. i dont know why people complained about the music, It wasnt over powering your narration and was quite enjoyable.

[@perfectpixel9544]

I would recommend using a torch and slowly pulling the purple out. It is mind blowing

[@blanerampart4986]

The music is very distracting. If you're going to use BG music, at least make it instrumental. And about about half the volume it is here.

[@davidfrank6666]

correct advice!

[@SinnerSince1962]

I had no trouble hearing him. But in summary, wipe it on, followed by wiping it off. Do it 5 times. There. done.

[@yarnybart5911]

Great video thanks. I'm using some old pallet collars as raised beds but want to give them some kind of treatment before they go out into 'the wild'. I decided on using Tung Oil but didn't know the best way to apply the first coat after I've sanded the collars. Now I know and the orange oil type is really helpful. Don't want to use any nasty thinners in wood that I'm growing food in. Cheers, from (a very soggy) Somerset, England.

[@csjmoore]

Thanks for the dilution tip. The music was a bit loud but it was enjoyable. I have a Cherry wood project that is aged with baking soda and a "traditional cherry" stain wiped on and then off after a minute. Now comes the tung oil to match the original tv cabinet color. BTW - it has been years since I used turpentine but I have a can of it so here goes. Cheers.

[@rickhughes954]

why would you use turpentine and mineral spirits ? .... why not just one of these, you are only using as a thinner, assume it's going to evaporate off anyway.

[@davekimball3610]

Lol, I'm just giggling at the Sadie's salsa jar. But the finish looks fantastic!

[@stephenwright2178]

This is certainly one way of treating wood with tung oil and it is also a quick way. However in terms of providing the best looking and most durable finish, it is not the best way. As tung oil is a drying oil, each successive coat has to cure properly and that takes several days rather than around an hour, for each coat to dry. Before applying the second and all subsequent coats of oil, the previous coat should be lightly sanded with around 400 grit, but only after it has properly cured. If you want to read an authoritative article that compares the superior properties of tung oil with other oils and how to use it correctly to finish and protect wood, see: www.canadianwoodworking.com/get-more/tung-oil-debunking-myths Whether for interior or exterior wood, there is no finer method for finishing and protecting wood than using tung oil. If maintained, it is more resistant to mould, rot and moisture ingress than any other finish. Paint, varnish, wood stain etc will all eventually flake or let moisture in. Once that has happened, the only option is to completely strip back to bare wood and re-treat. One final thought to anyone wanting to make your interior or exterior wood grain really pop with colour and contrast, try the ancient Japanese wood-charring method of Shou Sugi Ban, prior to treatment with tung oil. The extent of charring can be to your taste and is worth experimenting with. However, for exterior wood, once you have tried this, you will never want to go back to using wood stain.

[@Melodysdadvideos]

Stephen Wright have you ever used pure ting oil before?

[@stephenwright2178]

Several times. :)

[@Melodysdadvideos]

Stephen Wright oh good, cause it sounded like you never have and were just quoting that lady's article☺. I've been using it for years. Refer to your article you linked: "The oils dont really "dry" or evaporate; they "harden" or cure." You don't layer it like a urethane the way you are describing. Pure Tung oil doesn't work like that. As far as sanding between coats, I have noticed no difference so I don't bother. But to each his own. I use pure tung oil weekly, and made this video for people who are frustrated using it. That's a good article you cited though, I remember reading it years ago.

[@jmgraffio]

Stephen Wright I just watch some examples of that method of wood burning. I'm so glad you said that because I was wondering if it could be used in this case. Definitely going to try it

[@taurushipointenthusiast1306]

I have to say YUP even with Boiled Lin Seed oil and Tru-oil several days dry between coats sand paper and 0000 steel-wool between coats there is one exception 1st coat needs several HOURS being cut dries quicker after that 2nd coat needs few days to dry. pending application 0000 Steel-Wool or sandpaper work just fine. But after 2nd coat needs a few days for drying

[@GeeDeeBird]

Tung oil and Sadie's Salsa. Nothing but the best!

[@ValerieLynn]

Thank you for the video tutorial on finishing wood with tung oil and for the write-up with links.

[@toneeclark399]

Excellent presentation. Thanks. Enjoyable soundtrack and great info. 👍🏾👍🏾 (I love Purple Heart)

[@johnnymb100]

Thanks so much for this. I'm refurbishing a 1940 snare drum, and tung oil seems to be the weapon of choice to really get in there and bring it back to life. You reaffirmed my choice, so thank you again. BTW the music accompaniment is awesome. Reminds me of Wednesday's Wolves.

[@nickcarter5448]

Excellent, clear video -- thank you! I loved the background music so much, I Shazam'd it to find it. Then I saw you linked in the description. Thank you for supporting musicians and attributing!

[@jonwikan3986]

I thought I would point out that while some products are actually called tung oil and have linseed oil and no tung oil, for example Minwax and Formby's, many of the other finishes you list are not pretending to contain tung oil, so don't need to be on the list. Waterlox has 85% tung oil and dryers and resins to speed up the dry time, and probably make it more durable which is really nice when doing floors but you still have to limit traffic for a week and walk on red rosin paper.

[@spencerb52a]

This may be silly (also a newbie) but I’m reading about the combustibility factor of the rags used in applying the tung oil which is freaking me out. What do you do with your rags after use?

[@time4clocks]

Hi! Just thought I'd mention that I always save used glass or plastic food containers with lids after they are empty and before I do refinishing, fill them halfway with water. When I am done refinishing I jam all the rags in there along with my latex gloves, top off the container with water, screw the lid on, then into the trash. Many refinishing products will combust the rags and since the potential for fire is there I just make it a habit to do this even with non-combustible products. 😸

[@peti802]

very helpful. thanks. background music was a distraction.

[@sinipepa4583]

John Petitt that's cause your a crybaby

[@augustreil]

Sini, and you're crying about him making a valid point. Smh.

[@scooby0068]

Just shut up and appreciate ingrate.

[@ToadHallNW]

I rather liked the music, which is very unusual for me.

[@holybritches]

Yes, the background music was terrible. It sounded like a 1920's song overlaid with Depeche Mode music. Horrible.

[@gerbendenheeten6905]

I want to apply it on chopsticks that I painted, I used acrylic paint on a wooden base. After the paintjob I varnished it, but I think I need an extra layer (foor safety/protection) of Tung Oil. Any advice?

[@Nick-qn5nf]

Instructions on my 100% tung oil say a different process. You applied, wiped off, waited an hour & re-applied. Mine say apply, wait an hour, wipe off, re-apply 12 hours later.

[@robertpelland5649]

If I wanted to listen to music, I am told there are really great music video's on the web

[@bryanesmith8739]

Big ups for the Sadie's Salsa! Albuquerque in the house!

[@iwannaapple7190]

Extremely thorough information. Thanks

[@davidkopec9442]

Thanks for the video, very informative. The music is fine.

[@ansellovestogroworganicall2180]

I cut 10/1 first coat - ten mineral spirits to one oil ...... I work down to less mineral spirits and more oil but richest I do is 70% oil with 30% oil .... Mineral spirits are the vehicle that drives the oil into the wood .... Usually do 7-8 coats.

[@scott33761]

Very nice. Putting a finish on something can take longer than building it. A trick I picked up is to squirt some propane into a container before closing it is an inert gas that keeps things from skinning over going bad. it is no more dangerous than having a can of flammable stuff on the shelf. take the head off the torch first.

[@Melodysdadvideos]

That's clever.

[@2dogscandies]

Hi I'm just wondering in your experience with tung oil, will it be durable enough to be used for outdoor projects?

[@greglinton329]

It has been used for thousands of years on boats.

[@briscoedarling3237]

Is that music from the land of tung trees?

[@MakerBoyOldBoy]

Southwest heat and sun defeats all finishes - wood or auto. Boiled linseed goes very dark and degrades. Plastic finishes flake off due to wood movement. Tung oil is the only option, but it must be recoated fairly often. It doesn't darken but the sun does degrade it.

[@jettkeyser9909]

That would be very useful...I am finding my way...an old beginner...and hugely delighted...

[@Melodysdadvideos]

I am sorry about taking so long to get around to it, but I finally made the video, I hope it helps: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gmTHpaGjicuJfdE

[@HomeImProveMentHow]

I just liked and subscribed to your Channel this is important something lot of people don't know about I'm more familiar with polyurethane and lacquer so thanks for sharing bro

[@mattmoores5442]

Love the music. And the instruction. Thank you

[@TheDuckcarver]

Why on earth would you want to interject the cacophony loosely termed "music" in an instructional video?

[@no-ce]

Please could you help me? this oil can I use on floor wood? this floor is inside mi comercial job, which procedure must have I follow? Hi from Mexico City

[@scottnunya2441]

While I appreciate the vid, and your method works, I use a different approach. No dilution, 2--3 coats, wipe off with lint free cloth (really, you should never use anything that releases fibers, like a paper towel) after each coat, and waiting 24 hours between coats. I think your method is really for those who want to do the job fast, but in my experience, diluting often results in an uneven finish with dull and shiny spots. I've never had an issue with undiluted tung oil sweating, so I think the dilution may have something to do with that. Just my 2 cents.

[@hellakitty2]

my experience as well. currently applying on red oak floors. i will wait and apply no cut oil and see if i can amend the appearance.

[@scottnunya2441]

@@hellakitty2 just an FYI, when using tongue oil on floors that receive traffic, the needed re-application will be more frequent. With no traffic, roughly every 4-5 years, but with traffic, probably around 2 years. Easy enough to re-apply, so really not a big deal.

[@hellakitty2]

@@scottnunya2441 thank you appreciate the heads up. This is my second use of a penetrating oil on floors. Initially used Penefin Verde which lasted about 5 years.

[@user-nd5ti2rk4i]

Great video, I learned a lot.

[@Briannafrancis-e9g]

Tung oil is the best thing invented I swear!

[@Melodysdadvideos]

LOL, I too, am a fan. I am glad you are stoked about it :)

[@akinama1103]

Newbie here! Thank you for this video. This might be a silly question but after reading the article I am still confused as to what is wrong with the oil/vanish mix. I purchased the Hope's not knowing it wasn't pure, and I am trying to understand and figure out if I need to return the product or not. It's for outdoor garden bed. TIA!

[@keithbarry29]

Can or should you spray on Tung Oil to walls? I just cover the walls in my Speakeasy inn and was thinking I need to show off all the different wood grains. Tung Oil or something else because its A. Such a big area and B. I'd like to spray?

[@waterfordrs22]

Definitely want to start by thinning it. Turpentine will slow down the drying process, mineral spirits used- it will dry faster.

[@vivarc2]

Great detailed detailing of the tung oil!

[@joshuasmith1215]

Do you know if there would be any issue if I stained softwood 2x construction lumber then added tung oil once the stain dried?

[@alancosens]

Is that wood stained? I'm wondering about using tung oil to finish after using a wood stain. Seems that a water-based wood stain would be okay in this regard. Any insight on this? Also, I recently did apply non-diluted tung oil to a previously unfinished guitar neck. Seems like it came out really beautiful but it's only been about 24 hours. It's hard maple. As you recommend diluting it first I'm wondering, is there some problem that I many have by not thinning first, and also if I go back now and reapply with thinned tung oil will that help? Thanks a bunch.

[@bowser5]

Did you ever figure out your stain question?

[@Doyledidit]

Thanks for this information, I learned something which makes my day. Great choice in music, again thanks

[@larrybounds9001]

Making paste? What is your preferred recipe. Most recipes I see is with mineral oil, now the recipe might all be the same?

[@FR-tb7xh]

Fabulous video! Somewhat surprised though, knowing pure tung oil, that you didn’t wait days between the first applications, and that you didn’t lightly sand between coats. Is it because your first coats had been diluted with turpentine, and because you minimized the bubbles? Any help appreciated, because I’ve got a new and beautiful checkerboard end grain butcher block cutting board and am overdue to reoil all my great wooden utensils!

[@chdjhns]

Would this work well on a wood stereo cabinet. Just wanted to clean it up a bit or wood just some Howards feed and wax work fine

[@danalaniz7314]

Very informative and useful. Thank you.

[@ethereal1257]

Ive never worked with wood but wanting to do some diy stuff using the pre sliced wood ornaments. They all suggest using tung oil to care for the wood pieces. For this kind of situation do I dilute the oil? I also see spray tung oil available. Is it best to brush on with paint brush, rub on with a cloth, or spray on? Diluted or straight? The wood pieces vary in size from 2.0 in.-3 1/2in.

[@MarcellaSmithVegan]

Also, would Tung oil resist paint splatters, can I use it on a wood painter's easel? Or would another oil be better?

[@larshuschke1875]

I've stained a butcher block table. Will let it dry completely before adding the Tung Oil. My question is if I dilute the oil with Mineral Spirits will this effect the stain at all? Thanks.

[@Melodysdadvideos]

I have never used tung oil as a sealer. I may have to play around with it to see what happens some day. To answer your question, if the stain you used is oil based, then yes, if the stain is water based than not so much. Hope this helps, let me know it it works as a sealer, could save me some time experimenting. Most of the wood I use with tung oil is the wood they base the stain colors on; walnut, ebony, mahogany, cherry, etc. But the woods have very distinct grain patterns which make them look pretty amazing with a bit of oil to make them pop.

[@rodlacey560]

Music????

[@anthonypaul210]

I noticed the Watco Tung Oil Finish did not make the list of Do Not Use. Is watco tung oil Good stuff??

[@theblackat50]

I purchased an unfinished French door. It was ready for staining. I’ve stained it with minwax stain and is allowing it to dry. In a few days I want to add a top clear coat or a sealant so I will use tung oil. Do I just apply the tung oil to the stain coat or do I need to sand it first with a 220 grid sand paper sponge before applying the tung oil?

[@jericoyman8873]

can i ask whose the artist of this song? thank you

[@lilyshen3824]

Thanks for your Vedio. But unfortunately when I watched your Vedio, I have already done the first coat with the pure tung oil. Is there anything I need to do to correct it? Thanks

[@marciamoore6818]

What are you using to wipe after appliation - it looks like paper towels but I would think that would leave lint

[@icespeckledhens]

Thanks for the information in the video.

[@redpunk]

Knowing next to nothing about woodworking, I have a question about safety (with regards to disposal and storage). Basically I've heard that tung oil likes to oxidize and that tung oil soaked rags and whatnot tend to get hot as a result. So am I overreacting or is improper storage and disposal an actual fire hazard?

[@Melodysdadvideos]

So with pure tung oil no, but...if you thin it with something like mineral spirits or turps that is flammable and combustible, then you need to either rinse off your rags before throwing them away or just let them dry out before throwing them away. The problem is that many products are labeled "Tung Oil" but contain all sorts of additives, thinners, and even different oils. Check out the description to my video: I included a list of such "Tung Oils". I don't recommend those. I prefer a pure 100% Tung Oil, that I can dilute as needed myself which I also provided a link to the one I use.

[@spkendrick]

Can this be applied to plywood? And how much maintinence is required? Meaning do i have to apply this every month since it's not a poly?

[@hermankrijnen6409]

Background "musical noise" spoils the whole instruction! The idea is that the viewer can hear you. That would be more instructive.

[@scooby0068]

There are those that create for others like Melody's Dad and then there are those that lie comfortably on their backs and criticize like you......what have you created for us to enjoy numbnutz? I'm sure it's an empty quiver.

[@mrgod2u701]

I love the way you accented the purple heart miters with biscuits, it really pops that amateur quality look to your work and makes me want to trust your advice on how to use tung oil.

[@jonahbutler1266]

Are these like kitchen paper towels or like a dense shop paper towel? Just wondering about pieces of it getting stuck in the finish

[@thdef]

Most people say that you should let it dry for at least 24 hours between two coats. Have you ever had any trouble by only waiting one hour between each?

[@CyrilViXP]

Yeah, the idea is that the first layer of oil is hardened enough in 24 hours to not mix anymore with the next coat

[@robinhoodwasasocialist.1401]

Purple Heart is beautiful but I've never found a way to keep the purple color from fading to brown.

[@Melodysdadvideos]

Yep, but I don't mind the end color either. I think the only wood I don't like the aged color of is walnut. So sad because walnut looks so amazing with just tung oil on it until it gets older and then turns to that tan look.

[@LBCAndrew]

@@Melodysdadvideos try applying a spar urethane marine grade varnish. They almost always have UV inhibitors which will help retain the colorbetter than anything I have found. As long as you use the satin version and don’t go crazy with it, you can avoid the poured epoxy bar-top look.

[@52memor]

Thanks for the vid.. it was a great help............. Is there anyway you can get rid of that annoying music

[@suleymansekman2697]

hmm! If I were you ; Only%20 tung oil mix much better first coat?

[@fredcdobbs823]

What would you think of wiping it with 0000 steel wool instead of paper towels?

[@keith.loves.lasagna]

Question. I am thinking of applying pure Tung Oil on a unfinished guitar. I have done it in the past with success; however, it was many years ago and my memory is foggy. Additionally, this time I plan to add dye. I am mixing Keda liquid aniline dye to acetone and doing a 50/50 mix with Tung Oil. Seemed OK on a test piece. Ideally, I will do 1 coat of this. Then the following coat will be a heavy coat of Tung Oil only (no dye or acetone) as recommended by Real Milk Paint (technically for the first coat). Let soak, wipe off any puddling for even polymerization, and thin coats from there. Sorry for long backstory. My question is........... Should I finish both sides of the guitar? The first time, years ago, I did the back first, then front & sides. I figured gravity would help w/ the penetration. But since I will be dying the wood this time, I was curious if I should dye the entire body, front & back, then hang to dry. Any thoughts? Thanks!

[@unclejack123]

What are you using as applicators? Looks like gauze pads ..... I thought the music was O.K. ...... JRW

[@bodybuilder220]

Can you apply a coat of catalytic varnish over this ting oil finish

[@marcuskay8316]

How much tung oil would I need for 150 ft of floor boards please.

[@jackiecrowe-talma5859]

I've been given 1" thick slabs of tulip wood with the bark on that I'll be using for shelving. The person that gave it to me suggested using valoil on it but it's no longer available. My experience with finishing wood is nothing more than moldings and doors. Any suggestions? I'd like to try to preserve the bark and bring out the grain. Water won't be an issue. The slabs are probably at least 3 years old and the bark is intact.

[@taylorsessions4143]

Jackie Crowe- Talma whatever you end up doing I hope there is a video at least showing the final product!

[@platalibertad9177]

Thanks for the 3step process coz I was applying 3 layers PURE and it fell too thick.

[@billybastar4022]

Does the turpentine alter the color? I need a natural oak finish to stay true

[@jamest.5001]

I'm wanting to oil finish my wood flooring. I haven't seen any orange oil around here. but I don't really care about using it or not. but I need to walk on it in a day or two after finishing. I like the color of the wood. its never been finished . and is about 70 years old as far as I know. it had been covered for years. but I want to leave it bare and finish it. what would be a good oil for a fast drying quick job?

[@Melodysdadvideos]

Unfortunately, I don't have any experience with finishing wood floors. I'm not going to pretend to be a resource for that. I can tell you that many oils that have additives/hardeners dry faster than pure varieties so I am sure there is something out there for what you are trying to do, I just don't know what it is of the top of my head.

[@socalmx255]

Love the video! What do you usually apply it with? I've used cheesecloth before, just didn't know if there is something better. Thanks!!!

[@kamonharrell3277]

Audio sounds fine with over ear headphones, you should try mastering your volume in the next one. Other than that great video!

[@edhorn5640]

Step 2 above: What grit are your abrasive pads? Thanks,

[@declanwilson4230]

Beautiful work!

[@clapforboobies5892]

Is it ok to shellac this wood after tung oil?

[@DFox-ud3gx]

Thanks glad I found your tutorial