How to Build a Chevrolet 454 Big Block Part 6: Replacing the Pistons and Rings

[@Maroqu1n]

Thank you for doing this by the way! I'm rebuilding my 454 as well and this guide is priceless :)

[@2carpros]

Very cool! We are uploading it as we build it. This week we aren't working on it due to the holiday but we will be back on it early next year! Thanks for watching!

[@bugoykikay8074]

@@2carpros i know u might not see this but can you do a rebuild video on 5.3 vortec or 6.2 v8 (third gen)

[@donniepayton1460]

I always put my rod bearing in the rod first and then rubber tips on rod bolts so you don't damage the crank when installing and pour some oil on crank journal before putting rod in

[@SummitRacing]

Another great video!

[@2carpros]

Thanks Summit, appreciate the comment!

[@joeltobert8457]

I hope we get to hear this BBC run, I want to here that cam. Merry Christmas

[@2carpros]

Hopefully! Thanks for watching! Merry Christmas!

[@jasonradle7076]

You will have to watch clamping the rod that way you can easily twist/bend the connecting rod a connecting rod vise is the best and clamp it at the parting line for the cap not trying to be rude just wanna help ya out brother hope she turns out well for ya!

[@SOLDOZER]

Where's YOUR video? Oh...you dont have one...

[@markwatson9393]

Thank you. Keep up the great work

[@2carpros]

Thanks, will do!

[@joe-hp4nk]

Install and lube the rod baring before you knock the piston in and make sure the chamfer is to the outside against the crank. Also you didn't check the clearances on the crank and rods.

[@killercodplays]

Just posted about this lol good eyes

[@killercodplays]

Well I commented

[@nicholascooper2043]

Really enjoying this build series. When’s the next video?

[@warrenmartin1607]

454th like on a 454 rebuild.

[@2carpros]

Well you know what that means right? You gotta build one. That's the rules lol Thanks for watching!

[@steverose2405]

Helpful videos; thank you. You used the term “gall” several times, but you were actually cautioning against damaging a surface by scratching or nicking. Galling is due to friction and adhesion between two surfaces, which causes the crystal structure beneath the surface to slip and tear. A galled surface will appear gouged with areas of missing material and other areas with material adhered onto the surface.

[@2carpros]

Seems like the same thing. At the end of the day just don't scratch, gall, bang, knock, gash or anything like that against the surfaces I said. Thanks for watching!

[@steverose2405]

Definitely not the same thing.@@2carpros

[@designsinorbit]

Hello good sir! Question for ya- The machine shop balances the pistons separate from the crankshaft? I am at the stage of taking my 454 block to the machinist. So I may have a few Q's for ya...thanks so much!

[@randybrooks3323]

Really should put assembly lube on the bearings

[@BigBlockGDM]

He says it will just squeeze out when you tighten

[@whiplashmachine]

He should have. His reasons for not are miss guiding and BS.

[@whiplashmachine]

@@BigBlockGDM it will squeeze out the excess but leave an important film behind. There should be at least 0.002" clearance between bearing bore and journal and that will hold plenty of lube.

[@bwhite2851]

I’m rebuilding my big block 454 Gen VI marine motor right now. My stock rods look exactly the same as you original set with that extra notch on the rod cap. It seems like GM put that there for a reason. Can you expand on why that is/was an issue for your rebuild? I can’t honestly say if they were that way or not when I took my parts down the machine shop, but I have a feeling they came from the factory that way. BTW, great videos! I’m using them as a guide for my rebuild. Cheers!

[@2carpros]

Very cool! Might have been for balancing reasons or casting reasons. I'm sure someone on the internet will be along shortly to correct me lol. Thank you so much for watching!

[@mo2058130]

Great series good videos. Got a new sub.!

[@2carpros]

Awesome, thank you! Welcome aboard!

[@killercodplays]

Only thing I saw that was wrong is you didnt put assembly lube on your rod bearings which can cause pre mature wear. Hope you prime the hell out of that oil pump and filter.

[@michaelrouse627]

I was just about to take it all apart and wipe the lube I put on seeing Ryan not put any on until I googled it.

[@joeltobert8457]

Great job. wanted to point out to you on the second set of rods the machine shop screwed you. they are missed matched. the first set was all truck rods, better then bottom of the line car rods. you look at the area just above the journal you will see the first set looked like a thumbprint( nickname thumb rods) in the casting and most of the second set look like a dog bone, this is a week area in cast steel rods and the thumb rods are thicker in the week spot. When you look at the video you will notice the second set is a miss-match. at least one thumb/ truck rod( second back right side marked #6) among dog bone rods. not sure the could really balance the different rods to each other? Sure it will run but wanted to point it out to you.

[@2carpros]

Good eye! We swapped them out because of your comment! Thank you so much!

[@mba753]

Thanks for the videos really helpful. I didn’t get how to determine the orientation of the pistons Can you explain more, are you referring to the chamfered side on the rods?

[@c0c0asauce]

If you pause at 2:51 you can see 2 dark little notches for the bearing tabs to fit into. That's what he meant by the tang.

[@renemata5806]

Thankyou for urs videos

[@nickycritic5269]

Sunshine and puppies? ......Woof woof

[@TubeInspire]

Hello! Thank you for the awesome videos seems like I learned a lot and I'm going for i!! Building my own engine, quick question? I seen your series of videos for the big block build with that being said can i add a blower like that in the future or should I build certain things so different? Thanks again

[@2carpros]

Awesome! You are going to do great! Three things. You might want to look into a boost friendly camshaft and forged rotating assembly to handle that extra heat. Along with that heat you need to open the rings bigger for the pistons so you don't pinch a ring. Thanks for watching!

[@TubeInspire]

@@2carpros thank you for replying back I will definitely Sona research on those items 👍🏼 thanks again

[@JaySmith-frosty]

the box with the rings had a dodge , Chrysler, Plymouth label. for a big block chevy?

[@2carpros]

If the bore is the same size it might be cross platform. Thanks for watching!

[@martynhamblyn2711]

A some vids I’m rebuilding my 454 I looked up the piston rings part number is that for a 4.3500 bore or am I reading it wrong cheers

[@2carpros]

So my bore is .030 over. The stock bore is 4.25, that makes mine 4.28. But you are right the part number in the beginning of the video is wrong and .100 over there was a mix up with the machine shop. Always get pistons rings that match your pistons. We did get the right ones for the end of the video though. Thanks so much for watching!

[@deankoch7305]

tHANKS BRO.

[@2carpros]

Thanks for watching Dean!

[@JH-kh9lf]

Does it Matter what type of motor oil you use? Or does it have to be the same as you will run in the engine?

[@2carpros]

No it doesn't matter. Thanks for watching!

[@randybrooks3323]

And valve relief hose to the top

[@bradley7723]

I'm suprised that as meticulous as you were you neglected to plastigage the rods and mains to positively measure clearance especially after the machine shop sent back a unusable and improperly machined rod. 😮

[@mikemelisa1804]

And also failed to offset the seams of the rear main seal. 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@codysp]

​@@mikemelisa1804 not supposed to.

[@my357mags]

You measure ring gap, but you don't plasti gauge main or rod bearings. Just as important!

[@2carpros]

As I stated, in my experience of engine building, it is either too tight, too loose, or just right. 99/100 it's just right. Don't worry I show exactly how to plastigauge it on the 302-347 build we did. Thanks for watching!

[@theronmatthews5369]

When you honed the line bore did your bearings change size? If so, how do you know what bearing size to get? What clearance and tolerance?

[@2carpros]

I didn't do that. That machine shop did. They told me to get 0.010 bearings. Thanks for watching!

[@theronmatthews5369]

@@2carpros thanks! Amazing work by the way bro!! This is by far my favorite set of KZbin videos.

[@BigGixx23]

When are we going to see the next video?

[@2carpros]

Very soon! We are excited due to a generous fan donating a new engine for us and I will explain everything in the next video!

[@nightsnake64]

what is the part number on the piston rings

[@nightsnake64]

never mind i missed it , sorry

[@2carpros]

All good! Thanks for watching!

[@captainslauter3690]

where did you get the connecting rods??

[@2carpros]

I buy all of my performance parts from SummitRacing.com but those rods came from the factory with the block. Thanks for watching!

[@cghennig4380]

I didn’t see any check on bearing clearance. Do you totally trust your Machine shop?

[@2carpros]

Yep. Thanks for watching!

[@tyronecarruthers22]

Did u buy everything new or did you keep parts? I’m going to start building a 454 with your help and I need answers on if I have to buy every thing new or not

[@2carpros]

Reused somethings and bought new others. Like the crank is the stock one. But most everything else is new. Thanks for watching!

[@joearvelo7260]

Nice vid thou!

[@cr500mike]

LIKE !!!!!

[@austinjones6058]

Im confused! I remember you measuring 454 at the beginning of this series but the description says 0.030 board over. Did you have to get special size pistons for that then? Also how much was it to send to the machine shop? What all would that be called to get it cleaned and honed like that?

[@2carpros]

Yep. You get 0.030 over pistons at SummitRacing.com And it would be about 1600 or so depending on the shop. I always just ask what is the block going to clean up at? I'd like 0.030 if possible. I need the block hot tanked and line honed and new cam bearings. If you need a crank reground or re surfaced ask them about that too. Just talk to them about what you are doing and they will help you out. Most machine shops are super cool. Thanks for watching!

[@warwitem]

Well it been nice for you to tell use new guys exactly what you were planning to do in video when you removed the piston and got them ready for machine because I had no idea that you were replacing them and I pulled mine out as you instructed not realizing until now that I need .030 sized pistons to match ring and bore.

[@TubeInspire]

I been fallowing the videos! So you took the stock pistons to the machine shop with the after market ones? Or are they the same stock piston machined? And do we find out what size bore we need or ask for? Sorry first time trying to build, i been send you mags through out the series Thanx

[@2carpros]

Hey there Ruben thanks so much for watching! So the stock pistons are junk and never to be used again. You are changing the bore size of the cylinder so bigger pistons are needed to match. In this case we bored 0.030 over so we need 0.030 bigger pistons. In our case we used SRP pistons over stock but had them hung on our stock rods because they were in good shape and we aren't making monster power. You find out the bore size by asking the machine shop what the bore will clean up at. Ours happened to be 0.030 but sometimes its 0.060 or even 0.100 so you have to ask the machine shop. I'll be happy to answer any question you might have. Thanks again!

[@TubeInspire]

@@2carpros awesome! I get it now, appreciate the feedback and your help, happy holidays and blessings

[@ralphvickers2339]

why does the ring box say chrysler - dodge -plymouth ? Thought this was a chevy rebuild

[@2carpros]

It is but rings can be used in more than one application. Thanks for watching!

[@ralphvickers2339]

@@2carpros I figured as much...just checking. I am considering buying an old camper with a 454 engine... this has been a great series to watch and done very well to boot.

[@joearvelo7260]

Same rods no arp bolts???..OB

[@2carpros]

What?

[@oscarsotelo735]

How much it cost to rebuild a 454

[@2carpros]

Depends if you use aluminum heads and forged pistons like I have. I'm probably around 2000 into this due to all the performance and aluminium parts I have bolted to it. Thanks for watching Oscar!

[@aaronbollhoefer8465]

Am I the only one who feels like he doesn't use enough assembly lube on those journals?

[@2carpros]

Considering the lube will just squeeze out when you torq it down. It's fine. Although more lube is always better. Thanks for watching!

[@whiplashmachine]

No you are not, lol

[@john10962]

No link to piston.

[@Maroqu1n]

Yeah I was looking for that too haha

[@2carpros]

Fixed! Thanks for watching!

[@peterbuilttough3406]

Rod looks like it's been over heated

[@2carpros]

I asked about that at the machine shop. It is apart of the heat treating GM does at the factory. Thanks for watching!

[@whiplashmachine]

@@2carpros it is from when they heated the rod in the pin oven to fit the wrist pin in.

[@Twiztid_Fayte]

23k on just the pistons?! 😮😮

[@2carpros]

Not mine lol I'd never spend that even if I could afford it. Thanks for watching!

[@randybrooks3323]

Gose

[@arturoriveraxd192]

How many pounds finally 50 i want know

[@2carpros]

Which part?

[@codysp]

Ring gap should not be measured at the top of the cylinder.

[@2carpros]

It's a cylinder not a cone. Thanks for watching!

[@codysp]

@2carpros bet you $100 cylinders have a taper!

[@Scubasteve22]

No lube on the bearing?...

[@2carpros]

Not on the back side.

[@Scubasteve22]

@@2carpros no for sure, wasnt any on the load side either, I didnt think..