How to Build a Rocket Stove with a Built-In Water Heater!!

In this video, I am building a Rocket Stove with a built-in heat exchanger!
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0:00 - Intro
1:28 - The Build
8:45 - The Heat Excahnger
22:25 - Final touches
25:56 - Testing the Stove
#Rocketstove #camping #diy

[@michielderuyter6011]

Nice, another adchannel

[@PatrickRemington]

?? What are you talking about this video is not advertising anything.

[@emameyer]

@@PatrickRemington bitter people are everywhere. ignore them your video was great maybe add some more specs details

[@neocallimastix]

@@PatrickRemington I think he is talking about the constant pop up adds. But thats youtube.. Thanks for the great video!! How is the rocket exchanger going? :)

[@simonsandbidstrup1873]

A great tip for keeping the copper pipe from kinking is to use regular fine table salt. It can be hard to remove the sand as it compacts. With salt you can flush it out, since it’s water soluble, just connect your garden hose, and turn it up, just a little bit, and kick back and enjoy a beer, while the water works for you 👍🏽

[@susieshaw2910]

That’s brilliant 👍

[@nicodejager8644]

In plumbing work, especially in normally cold environments, I would anneal the copper pipe shortly before bending (using a pipe bender, or by hand (in case of soft rolled copper). Annealing : Either lay it in the sun (Europe and Northern climates are usually quite cold inside a room / workshop). I'm south of the eqautor, so 20 - 30 minutes in the sun, will almost require gloves to handle copper pipe.. Using a blow torch to just raise the temperature by 20 deg C, about one meter at a time, then bend / coil, will help. The salt inside the pipe, for concentric coils, is also a great tip, that I have not tried yet, but have been advised to try.

[@charlesrock7770]

Fill with water and freeze then wrap it up

[@nicodejager8644]

@@charlesrock7770, I would never bend a frozen pipe. Whether it will run under pressure or even under atmospheric pressure. Bending cold pipes may cause cracking, on inside and outside of the bend, both sides of the pipe wall. Sand or salt, and annealing to slightly above room temp / ambient (max about 35 - 45°C), will ease the bending effort, and make the metal not susceptible to cracking or folds, or losing shape.

[@PLAX84]

Just use a pvc pipe or anything round thats will be good enough no kinds im a Plumber i work with coils or a tubing bender

[@nicolasciancio8050]

Awesome project! Only on suggestion....Connect the the botom conector instead of the top one as inlet of cold water. Will be less likely to have any air trapped and the cooper will be safely coolled by liquid.

[@PatrickRemington]

Yeah, I normally would have the pump running before lighting the stove that way the copper never gets hot before the water hits it. I was thinking the water should go from The top (coolest) down to the hottest then exit.

[@scarwn]

@@PatrickRemington Doing as Nicolas said could offer to use the heat motion to circulate the water instead of the pump may be ? Of course unless the tank is higher than the rocket you'd still need to use the pump at first. What do you think ? Also, tell me if I'm wrong, but for me a rocket is the fact that wood burn 2 times (wood and gaz included) at almost 100%, I don't think that's the case here which make your stove a stove and not a rocket stove, am I wrong ? Thanks a lot, you're the king

[@nicolasciancio8050]

@@PatrickRemington Thanks for the reply. Well as heat exchangers go. The best efficiencie is with cross circulation... The coldest agaist the hottest. The biggest the temp diff, the better for exchange.

[@jamesmckee4039]

No need for a pump if you run the inlet low and the outlet high. Thermosiphon will move the water with no mechanical means being used! Clever idea just the same 😊

[@thehimself4056]

I was thinking the same thing. And Sleve the copper away from direct flame 🔥 contact.

[@JacobShepherdEngineer]

As the water heats up it will naturally move up in the coil. It might be enough to circulate the water without the need for the pump.

[@PatrickRemington]

Yeah, I definitely want to test this and see how well it works.

[@lewishamilton9577]

Convection.

[@petemack3076]

​​​@@lewishamilton9577 You need a big heat differential for that. Which you will eventually get, of course. But boiling water in the tube is 30% less efficient than pumping it: (550-212) ÷ (550-70) = 70%. So 30% longer to heat and more woid. But for use of grid it's a good choice. But it isn't convection. It's a primitive steam engine, like a drip coffee maker.

[@a420dro]

pumping is better and eats just 30w watts to circulate enough to warm all rooms, but with check valves it's easy to create emergency bypass for securing the flow without electricity. Mine works not enough to feed system, but enough to not explode and to temper the tank through the night. So starting the heating at morning is faster as the water is warm already

[@FadeToEvil]

Only if you want a steam generator. If you need a water heater, you have to use the pump.

[@CenterLineDesigns]

Typically you enter cold water at the bottom to not fight natural convection. Cool build. I am starting a build video for a large stainless rocket stove with integrated water jacket. Also I suggest pushing MIG. You will have better results. Cheers

[@PatrickRemington]

You would if you were doing a passive setup. Just did a video on this. The pump is moving water so fast that it doesn't matter but my thinking was that it should enter at the top (coldest) and travel down the 10ft of coil to the bottom (hottest) and then exit back to the Jerry can. It honestly probably doesn't matter that much at all tho

[@zaftighippo5544]

Bonus of using a bump and going coldest to hottest at the bottom is the hottest water is closest to the fire. Fish gills and many heat exchangers, both operate this way.

[@mazdamaniac4643]

Aye, that way if the water in the coil starts to boil, it increases convection so it doesn't run away too quickly. It essentially self-regulates up to a point. Forcing water through it with a pump ends up being less about transferring useful heat into water and more about cooling the flue gas down, because the water just doesn't have a lot of time to absorb heat energy any more. You could do it with a variable-speed temp-sensing pump setup, but that's little better than natural convection. It's like putting a crazy water pump on your car, it can actually make the engine overheat, because the coolant in the engine is going through it too fast for it to absorb anything.

[@wernerviehhauser94]

You use opposite medium flow directions to maximise heat transfer, but I would assume (without doing the math) that in this case, it does not really matter since it's not built for max efficiency anyway. Therefore, cold water going in on top is not a design flaw. Also, natural convection should be negligible. Tube is long and thin, height difference is small, which results in low convective forces and high friction.

[@Eric-gi9kg]

​@PatrickRemington I, too thought you were backwards. Though using it for showering it makes sense. Pump moves the water fast enough to not get to hot.. giving a perfect shower water temperature. The reverse would be better if you were Storing hot water. You would want it to be screaming hot.

[@gungho6798]

Always heat the copper pipe first with an open flame to soften it . Makes it easier the form around the pipe.

[@LittleAussieRockets]

Love the removable heat exchange, that solves a lot of problems.

[@maderightamerica3216]

I love seeing how DIY projects can solve problems when the SHTF happens. 🤔me thinks you deserve A++.

[@Snailmailtrucker]

Fantastic job Patrick... Thanks for taking us along ! Liked/Subscribed a long time ago ! *FJB too !*

[@colinmacaoidh9583]

Awesome! I had a very similar idea for a harvested heat water heater living off grid about a decade ago, SO damn satisfying to see the same general idea actually built.

[@Ron-FabandBuild]

Love the rocket stove with the adaptation of the water / heat exchanger. Awesome build. Will cone in handy in many ways.

[@PatrickRemington]

Thank you! I appreciate that!

[@osito021]

Excellent project. Thank you for sharing.

[@rossmunro9946]

With a little bit of tinkering for personal customization, you got the perfect off grid prepper device. Great video.

[@PatrickRemington]

I agree! Just made a video on how to make it wo without a pump

[@jeremykeith3152]

I’ve been waiting for this video since I saw the short. I really enjoy my electronic pump shower can. I commented there how I used the concept but modified to my needs. I thought I might build something similar like a box with the copper coil and handle that I can drop into a fire pit or place on the large camp stove. A little more portable since space is a premium! Heat exchanger box. I will probably add an insulated bag over my can to speed up the heating increase the retention of heat developed. Thanks for all the time you put in to share your ideas and finished product.

[@charlesoleson6616]

Cool design.

[@timhickman9911]

This is an absolutely awesome idea! An hour is a long time to have to run your pump. You know, if you put a fitting down about 6 inches from the bottom of your Jerry Can and reverse your flow of water, you don't need to use the pump. Cold water from the bottom of the van goes into the lower fitting of the exchanger. As the water heats it rises and goes out the top of the exchanger to the top of the can. The water will flow naturally. The biggest problem with heating water this way is you have to have a way to introduce cold water into the hot, in the shower line to prevent getting scalded. Also need to make sure you have a steam pop off valve on the can. As for your quick connects use an E3F3-B and a E3F3-B pressure washer coupler and nipple set.

[@PatrickRemington]

Thanks for the ideas! The pump only ran for about 30min total but only needed about 20min didn't even use half the battery. I am going to see how well passive heat exchange would work. I think it will be slower.

[@timhickman9911]

@@PatrickRemington it will start slower, but I. The long run it will actually heat quicker because the water will not have to cycle repeatedly through the exchanger. With passive, you will need to prime your lines, but that should be easy enough by making sure your water level is higher in the jug than the top of the coil pack.

[@scottc8152]

I would say just get a smaller pump that pumps fewer GPM, and uses less battery. What size battery was used?

[@timhickman9911]

@@scottc8152 Thermal dynamics precludes the need for a pump.

[@SpringfieldGuy]

Exactly right, we did that back in the '60's in Explorer Scouts with a SS milk can with a detachable 1/2" pipe which was routed into the campfire.

[@olafschermann1592]

Nice build!

[@rnroutside621]

I'm not sure i would change anything. that's another awesome idea i will have to try in the future!

[@TAR3N]

I build the same thing 6 years ago but with a ammo can . I have 5 daughters and my wife’s number one complaint while camping was the shower. The one we had was that useless bag thing. Though, putting it next to the fire with sand covering it with hot rocks is a great way to warm those up when theres not enough sun to do the job . So I took a 40mm can I had and have removable plates with coiled copper just like you have here . Normally just used steam and gravity for water pressure. Though I really like your 12v pump . Gonna borrow that idea for ours .

[@jorgeokr]

Congrats very cool ! just a word of caution : Never pump water into an already hot coil , fill with water first. Also, I hope nobody is tempted to add valves as bells and whistles to tis great and simple design.

[@justinwnichols03]

My only suggestion comes at the end with the cross brace for cooking pans. Since your longest can is 10" you should use the same simple cross technique on top but having the longer bars reaching further out will allow for a more stable cook top for your pans. Very cool portable unit!

[@13infbatt]

That is some nice engineering.

[@unzippy]

Ditch the pump, convection is your friend 👍

[@meljane8339]

The basic concept sounds like something I would otherwise like try a build of in a few years, after an operation-use review. ...I will hold off on watching. It's awesome to know that true efficiency (societally) is starting occur.

[@13mowe]

if the cold inlet was bottom & hot at the top would it self circulate the heated water ?

[@ZackariahCombs1]

Nice work brother! Love it🎉

[@Chill_Mode_JD]

Excellent work dude! I use a circular saw with the Diablo blade you mentioned when working with big sheets of 6061 aluminum works great 👨‍🏭

[@M.love4x4andmore]

Well done mate, a gem as usual.

[@PatrickRemington]

Thanks man! How have y’all been?

[@seanshannon9910]

This is the first time I’ve ever seen hot water defing gravity Hot water only rises kind regards Sean

[@PatrickRemington]

I'm using a 12v 2.5 gpm pump to cycle the water. This isn't passive heat exchange

[@akghound]

@@PatrickRemington why pump against the natural convection flow?

[@matikaevur6299]

With enough force applied, even chicken can enter the beehive .. (Sorry, does not translate well :)

[@muhariyadi8039]

good idea , tanks a lot

[@wesm3915]

You have your lines reversed. Great build.

[@akghound]

I didn't watch the video but he has it backwards on the thumbnail. hot water out needs to be higher than cold water in.

[@bparker86]

​@@akghoundyour right he still has it that way. He defends it too lol

[@duncanwhitcombe4392]

If you put a one-way valve on the lower pipe of the heat exchange and prime the unit you won't need the 12v pump till it's time to shower as the water heats it will drawer through and flow out the top back into the tank drrawering more cool water into the system.

[@Yzerbruh]

The latch you installed around 20:30 could've been installed differently so it does create a pinching fit. You need to attach the latch and hook slightly further apart so they pull more on eachother when pressing the latch down. With time and use it'll relax the metal and the fit won't be as tight, but bending the metal back is easy with some apprentice hammering skills.

[@jimmieblue6262]

I'm 65 and my dad told me about using sand to bend copper when I was a young boy in the 1960s

[@PatrickRemington]

Yeah! I had my doubts as first because I couldn’t find a good video of anyone doing it but it works incredibly well.

[@Faller31]

you can use water too and freeze it.

[@WeberMachineWorks]

nice build Patrick.

[@PatrickRemington]

Thanks man!

[@johnkillen588]

well done

[@matikaevur6299]

two suggestions : Use pressurized tank like they use on backpack sprayers to have a shower .. or secondary pumped air tank. That way you don't need electricity. And water inlets to your can/tank at bottom and top for natural circulation. EDT. And should next prohibition era hit .. you only need second module for cooling ;) For quality product there is lot off applied physic and chemistry to observe and follow but still, still is a still . . (even for water purification)

[@royallplatnum]

Wow this blew my mind what a wonderful build. On your detachable parts at the bottom you could leave a inch and a half legth from the bottom of the coil and and your stove on the outer serface weld a inch and a half cage around it and plug the detachables in like vacuum cleaner detachable heads

[@PatrickRemington]

Thank you! Yes, I like where your heads at!

[@3Sphere]

That's fantastic! Now all ya need to do is scale it up with a bigger stove, tubing and cheap or free water heater with a blown regulator or something to make enough water for a nice, long shower! Or maybe for a hillbilly hot tub!

[@KaiMirra]

Love it, can't wait for more. 👍

[@PatrickRemington]

Thank you!

[@mattwernecke2342]

Thank you!

[@PatrickRemington]

Welcome!

[@LADYMONA]

So neat...

[@markyoung9027]

Pretty cool I wonder what it would be like with a triple layer coil in it was like 3/8 tubing mandrel bent (fill the tubing with water and freeze it or fill it full of sand and heat bend it) in order to get it a tighter radius

[@AJCsr]

This showers feels awfully warm, its taking off my skin !

[@melvance7281]

There are devices that limit the max temp of the water coming out

[@jerrodwaterman9793]

Could use hydraulic hose fittings as quick couplers or 3/8 air hose couplers

[@4X4equals16]

yep good idea, next level is radiator for tent and heated water madress

[@mikedodger7898]

Great video, thanks! Any concern the solder will melt due to the rocket stove heat?

[@valeriemurphy8626]

Thermosiphoning has been mentioned a bunch already. My concern is melting through the copper with high heat over time. My first thought is to consider putting the coil outside the riser pipe. Then I thought about maybe doing an inner sleeve filled with a perlite cement mix to protect the pipe and also hold the heat over time so you don’t boil your water but can continue to have reasonable heating of the water over time without having to keep the fire burning.

[@tireballastserviceofflorid7771]

I recently purchased a small used wood kiln. Thinking about something like this to help offset the heat in the kiln. Especially while setting the pitch. Plus burn my waste. Need to find a used pellet mill. Like the idea for heating a shed or shower water.

[@JoseOrtiz-zb7gq]

Awesome

[@mrfilgueira]

What? You just made a whole project as an excuse to have some bacon! 😂 Great video man, thanks!

[@gungho6798]

Awesome Patric , please tell us about the water pump you used .

[@felixthefoxMEXICO]

looks very DIY

[@1gramps4julian]

Nice design.... two question... 1. What is max temp of that rocket stove at the coil? Is that soft copper or annealed in the HW coil? Wondering how close those temps are... a stainless steel coil might hold up better at those temps...

[@oNeGiAnTLiE]

Would opposing metals be an issue here? Idk myself if to prevent copper from corroding it would need to be insulated from metal chimney?

[@georgesmith4509]

Mate she's a beauty!! change nothing; If it ain't broke don't try and fix it

[@dustinfrey3067]

So, I have been thinking about this idea for a few years. My family and I will be moving to Alaska in a couple years. We are planting a church in remote Alaska and will be building our own homestead. So, I thought of this idea to help with heating the home (ie heated floors), main water heater, and to help heat a 3 season/year round green house. I figure with enough plastic 55 gallon drums of water around the parameter of the green house, among other natural insulation. Circulating hot water constantly throughout that system could help to keep the green warm enough to keep plants alive. I don't know if it will work in practice, but that is my theory.

[@kellycarver2500]

The burn chamber needs the pipes to have a small flange around the inside, on the TOP section, so the soot stays INSIDE, and can't leak out when it runs down the walls. The 'female' needs to be on the bottom, and the 'male' on the top, of every dividing seam, like the stovepipes are installed. So the top pipe slides INSIDE the bottom pipe. Stovepipes are installed this way, too, so the creosote doesn't run out of the pipe and out on the floor. We learned this the hard way, and our stove pad is STILL stained, because the stuff won't come off. I wonder if a person could make a stone or brick filled metal box, with water in it, and have it enclosed, and heat it outside with the stove, same as the water, and then it could serve as a tent heater for sleeping? The lid should be removable to replace brick or stones, so it can be lightweight for travelling. And maybe a clamp on stove pipe that could be bent to exit out a window? Is there such a thing as a bendable, like 'vent' pipe that could bear the heat? I know dryer vent pipe bends this way, but may not be thick enough and could melt? Like a stainless, collapsible pipe with a screen over the top end to catch the sparks. (Yes, having my coffee now. Lol.) Could make a four legged, free-standing pole, like one of those made to hold a Bible or book, with a half circle metal piece on top to hold that collapsible stove pipe? Maybe with a couple screw clamps on the sides to hold the pipe in place. This way, it could be used almost anywhere in a bind. And does anyone sell anything like this anywhere and if not, how much would it cost to have you make one for me?

[@kellycarver2500]

As TimHickman says, the water should pump itself from the fire heating the water. There are videos of heating water with wood, that show this amazing event. Yours may even work that way without any pump, have you tried it?

[@cb7172]

For your water connection....Union fittings could work. Or you could use garden hose threaded connectors and that kind of quick connectors

[@PatrickRemington]

Yeah that could work! Thanks for the suggestion!

[@patricraymond6674]

I would use air hose quick connections. We use air hose at work with water and works great.

[@PatrickRemington]

I thought about using those i figure if it works for air it would work for water

[@smokenjoe4022]

Well looking at this stove reminds me of a little camping rocket stove that you could charge your phone with! I would think it would take this stove to the next level! Cooking,water heater and phone charger what’s not to like!

[@PatrickRemington]

Haha love it

[@aussietim7974]

Haha... If your camping and playing with your phone you might as well stay at home :)

[@smokenjoe4022]

aussietim7974 There’s a few very good reasons to have a phone with when you’re remote! Injuries serious injuries it would be nice to just make a call rather then crawl 10 miles or carry the same! If spot a lightning strike or other reason for a fire 🔥 calling it in early might save lives and livelihood! Late spring or early fall show storm it there hunting you with snow machines you could hear them and guide them to you with guess what! Right your dam phone! One thing l do know about Australia is if all the women left Australia the men wouldn’t know it for 24 hours! 🍻

[@poornachandra3447]

22-03-2024 watched I like how it's turned 👌

[@totesmcpreesh7617]

I’m wondering about this being combined for like liquid mass heating in an RV/DIY Camper sort of a set up,

[@harmdewmartin2125]

Hot water naturally wants to rise so connect cold to the bottom tube. Otherwise tidy solution 👍

[@johnhokoana]

Great build Patrick! How long did it take? I don't have a rocket stove so I am hoping you can answer a question for me. To my understanding a rocket stove got its name because of the sound it makes drawing in fresh air. Because of that fact I was curious if you put a tube in the combustion area or slightly above would it create a negative pressure in the tube? Thank you in advance for answering my question and continue the great work you're doing.

[@elipenk994]

thank you for showing this. quick question: how will you clean up the sud build up on the heat exchanger?

[@PatrickRemington]

I'm not exactly sure but also not sure if I need to. If there was a ton of build up I would definitely try to knock it off with a wire brush. Right now it's just a thin coating. Someone did mention that the creosote could protect the copper to some extent 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️. I wonder if I could just soak it in something to clean it ever so often.

[@elipenk994]

@@PatrickRemington thank you very much for your reply. its greatly appreciated.

[@terrandel]

I'm curious how the water pump will hold up over time with water getting that hot. Is it made for hot water?

[@scarwn]

Hi, we get the weight of it ? Including with and without the water heating extension ? Thanks a lot

[@mitchelljohnson327]

If you were to use air hose chucks as quick connects. By the looks of the flow of the pump if you were to restrict the outlet it should slow down the water for quicker heating times.

[@courier11sec]

This is a great piece, but I'm curious why you choose to bring the cold water in at the top of the coil rather than the bottom. It could even eliminate the need for a pump, eliminating a possible failure mode.

[@PatrickRemington]

Well the portable shower already has a 12v pump so that’s why I’m using a pump and I was thinking the water should go from the coldest part of the coil down to the hottest part then exit. It probably doesn’t make much of a difference since the pump is moving the water so quickly. If you want to do passive heat exchange the plumbing would have to be completely different.

[@petemack3076]

If you want to keep water hot, consider using a cooler. You can make enormous sous vide steaks that way.

[@toastrecon]

Another improvement would be dead simple: just put a thin piece of steel down into the middle of the heat coil. They do that with residential water heaters. The flue gasses heat up the steel, and it radiates energy to the coils. Maybe you could get two pieces and slit them halfway down the length and then fit them together at 90 deg in a cross pattern and then put that in the middle. Looks like fun!

[@mjohnson5030]

Awesome, but cold should go to the bottom and hot out the top. This is the natural way water wants to flow. You waste energy exchange by forcing cold to go high and hot low. Switch them and no pump required. Thermogradient will cause the hot water to rise in the coil, pushing the cold water into the lower inlet of the closed tank system. the water will be hotter faster longer.

[@JonasPersi]

awwwsome!! Do you think will also work in a chimney with hot smoke?

[@freakman420]

If the need arised and you were truly in a no power situation, I think the water will circulate naturally via percolation without the pump. The inlet and outlet will be reversed though. Cold intake on the bottom, and boiling hot out the top. The water source should be high enough so that the heat exchange is mostly full of water at all times.

[@dustinfrey3067]

To help ease the difficulty of coiling the copper tubing. You can anneal it with a propane torch. Copper tube is work hardened from the manufacturing process. So you can soften it by the annealing process, making it way easier to coil tightly.

[@CL-vz6ch]

Purchase the softer copper coil in maybe ⅜" or ½" used in refrigeration. Very easy to bend around a pipe.

[@51ubetcha]

Maybe look in to the quick connect fittings that are used on pressure washer wands. Can usually find them where pressure washer are sold and accessories

[@PatrickRemington]

That’s a great idea! I’ll look into it!

[@Odrunkmonkey]

Stainless camlock’s would be better. Beer home brewers use them for quick connect and food safe. Most “brass” these days are brass plated zinc.

[@comingtofull-ageinchrist6736]

Get a compression copper fitting to connect to your 5/8 male fitting. Locke supply would definitely have it or Home Depot or Lowe’s, but Locke Plumbing definitely would definitely have it. It’s a copper ferrule, so it would handle the heat.

[@PatrickRemington]

does a compression fitting need a special tool to do you just tighten a nut?

[@comingtofull-ageinchrist6736]

@@PatrickRemington yeah, definitely nothing but a couple wrenches.

[@comingtofull-ageinchrist6736]

@@PatrickRemington you may even be able to get a braided line that has the compression end fabricated into it. Lowe’s or Home Depot would carry something like that but I don’t know if you could find one very long. Because they are usually used to connect facets under a sink or to a toilet tank.

[@Nine_883]

You could silver braze those stub outs to the steel to keep the steel from cutting into that copper. It’s going to get hot and soft especially if it’s in there with no water running through it. Those soft solder joints might melt out.

[@PatrickRemington]

that's why it's removable. If you aren't needing the heat exchanger you could swap it out.

[@stephenwilling7287]

Hot water rises, so cold should go in through the lower inlet and out the top. Once working and you have water circulating you should be able to turn off the pump and water should continue to circulate.

[@EivinSukoi]

How much heat can be generated with this stove , since flex copper tubing can handle up to 400 Fahrenheit degrees ??

[@bobb7792]

Copper pipe should not be exposed to flame. Stack should be made with round tube. Smaller tube wrap with copper then larger on outside. Lasts way longer

[@marks6663]

I think that round tubing is superior because if speed of air flow is a factor, round is the way to go. Air, or any fluid, moves much easier through round than anything with flat sides or corners. You get much less resistance in a round duct because it has the least surface area to internal volume and it lacks corners which create eddies that cause drag. Also, one 90 degree elbow creates the same resistance as 10 ft of straight pipe regardless of shape. How much of a difference it makes in such a short contraption, I can't say. But the ideal stove would be one with no corners made from round tubing.

[@anthonytimpson4975]

cold in at the bottom warm out at top, warm water is less dense than cold and will pump itself through the system if done correctly.. had a bigger version with reburner heating water to keep my greenhouse warm.

[@PatrickRemington]

Just published a video on this today. With a thermosyphon setup you are right But with a pump it makes no difference which way you plumb it.

[@mcoffroadinaz4075]

Once you work the bugs out, ceramic coat (like they use on turbos) on the heat ex.

[@frankenstein3163]

Love it. Any idea how to build this without a welder ? Ie JB weld :) ???

[@PatrickRemington]

I want to say I have seen some that you can buy that are precision cut and you just put the pieces together. All the pieces have tabs and slots and it just fits together without welding. I might have to do a build on it

[@CruisingOz]

Instead of cutting out a piece and then welding in a mesh grid, could you just drill a bunch of holes to create the same effect?

[@PatrickRemington]

Yes you could! That's a really good idea actually.

[@chippysteve4524]

If you cut the 45 from the same point but in the other direction on the diagonal piece to make it longer then you can use the short offcut as the shorted vertical piece and you only have one piece to cut out (on the longer diagonal piece) instead of 2. Less material and less cuts so quicker and cheaper.Another upgrade would be to have the copper heat exchanger on the outside so it doesn't get covered in soot.Soot will really slow down the heat exchange and the coil on the inside will restrict the draw on the flue.

[@PatrickRemington]

Copper on the outside of square tubing would not work well at all. It 90 degree bends would be hard to do without crimping it. You could do it on round pipe but it would take much much longer. The soot doesn't seem to be doing much but if it builds up too much I'll clean it off.

[@chippysteve4524]

@@PatrickRemingtonYou wdnt bend the pipe to 90 degrees.That wd be crazy.If you insist on using box section because of easy welding/cutting then coil the pipe around and then slide a section of circular metal pipe over the outside.

[@Rhys_Beer]

maybe have a way to control the air intake, the same way people control the burn on those wood stoves by cracking the door open a bit. ive seen someone make something similar and you may not even need the pump ( although it will speed up the heating ) , they use convection and placement of the pipes as cold water sinks and hot water rises. You mostly see people doing this to heat hot tubs via a coil in a steel drum. On a side note maybe have a temp sensor to cut off the pump when the water gets too hot.

[@alexrahardjazh]

How to put that copper pipe inside it?

[@wbwarren57]

One small suggestion: since you’ve got the coiled copper tube and lots of different reservoirs and a fire, why don’t you go all the way in also add a still attachment that you can use to distill your sour mash?

[@Rhys_Beer]

Could add a hopper too

[@Kenniii3]

Wonder if sugar would work instead of sand. Then you could melt it out work water

[@mensworkshop]

Got a link for the circ saw blade? Looks awesome!

[@PatrickRemington]

Yep! These blades are awesome! amzn.to/4bTqDzM

[@tomscott3827]

Try filling the copper tube with water then freezing it. It then can be bent without pinching

[@ayseedthebuilder2135]

What is the temperature coming from the stove versus the melting point of the solder?

[@PatrickRemington]

While water is pumping it's very cool. I can touch the copper fittings you can see this at 28:12

[@clydecox2108]

How much water was in the tank? Enuf for a shower?

[@teenshooters]

Use hot water pressure washer fittings for quick connect

[@GMAN.12]

Where do you get your metal for your projects? I can’t seem to find anything bigger than 4ft ish chunks of 1-2” angle or tube.

[@PatrickRemington]

Locally from a foundery or steel supplier if possible but usually try to avoid Lowes or HD. For smaller project like this I got my steel from ebay. It's a little more expensive because of shipping but it's convenient. I'll link my favorite seller in the description.

[@buckyflex1]

Look for quick connect solution in pressure washer fittings