How To: Cheap LEDs on Ender 3d Printer

[@andyjame9687]

The ink tank system appears to be much better than the cartridge system kzbin.infoUgkxciSwynMJ7PnUvvx11rewiu-yFBkZTl53 and a lot cheaper to run. The machine was easy to set up. A small point but I thought they'd be a USB cable included to help with the set up but there was none. I've been using it now for a few weeks and it seems like a good product and superior to my previous printers which were all troublesome HP machines.

[@PunakiviAddikti]

Now that's what a good solder joint looks like. Pre-tinned wires and fresh solder on the joints. Personally I would use silicon wire (it's bendy and the insulation doesn't melt or shrink) but any wire will do, as long as it's thick enough and is insulated. I'd also use spade connectors on the other end. Clip off the plastic part and solder the wires in, add some heatshrink and you got good connectors.

[@MakerMaxCorbett]

Thanks. They are not hard to do, just take your time.

[@kamdenbolhuis9205]

This is AWESOME. I just ordered up the supplies to do this. Can't wait to see how it turns out!

[@KutilM.]

I'm thinking of using a 5mm LED strip that I glue to the bottom of the V-slot. It will be nicer than loosely plugged in. 5mm LED strip + 24V to 12V converter

[@UserUser-99]

This works quite nicely to illuminate my prints. One way to get the LED strip to come out at the top brace corners, is to slide a small screw driver behind the string and pry. Otherwise do everything the way Max C shows.

[@MakerMaxCorbett]

Thanks glad you like it.

[@303skier]

It is more challenging than you made it out to be to get the lights into and out of the upper rail. If I were to do it again, I might trim the strip where the corners are and solder wire between them to make it easier. Other than that though, works like a charm. Thanks for the tutorial!

[@MakerMaxCorbett]

This took me a few hours to do but no one wants to watch a video that long!

[@Jase-E]

Was an ON/OFF switch wired in anywhere or is it just always ON while the machine is running?

[@blairhickman3614]

I was curious about this also.

[@MakerMaxCorbett]

I did wire in an on/off switch but I did not cover it in the video. I put a switch next to the main power switch. To keep the video short I assumed people could add their own. Maybe I should have said that, sorry.

[@armani007E55]

@@MakerMaxCorbett Nice review. subbed! What switch did you buy from Amazon. tks!

[@lifetimeofworktodo]

Just a heads up guys. I installed a strip like this that had the plastic/squishy top. Seemed fine, but the rollers catch it just enough to make the Z miss steps and send me on a goose chase.

[@MakerMaxCorbett]

Good to know. That is a waterproof type. I did not use the waterproof type. Everyone make sure the rollers do not hit the strip.

[@jr52990]

Can this work on 12v LED's? I have a small roll of that right now and would like to not have to buy more.

[@ohheyitspaul]

You need a BUC converter to step down the 24v from the power supply to 12v

[@MakerMaxCorbett]

You can wire up the 12v leds in series to use 24v. Basically strip 1 positive in from supply. Strip 1 negative out connected to strip 2 positive in. Strip 2 negative out to power supply.

[@phminiaturas]

Max, have you noticed any performance issues since you installed the lights on your printer? Heating is ok? Speed, quality, everything just fine?

[@MakerMaxCorbett]

Everything seems fine. The power supply puts out plenty of power although I do not print over 230*C

[@ohbuddy8580]

Is there on option turn lights off and and manually? Or does the light simply stay on when the printer is on? Also have you noticed and issues since the time you installed it?

[@mindsofgreatness]

Since it's connected to the same power supply as the printer, you wont be able to turn the LED's off independently. You would need to get a separate power supply to turn the light off independently

[@MakerMaxCorbett]

I did put a switch in mine, but left that off the video.

[@MamuPlaysMinecraft]

@@mindsofgreatness you can put a switch between the LEDs and the power supply. Put it on either wire but positive is standard.

[@Wraith-Kryptos]

love ur intro

[@MakerMaxCorbett]

Came out a little louder then I planned. Thanks.

[@christopherwagner7007]

I'm thinking of trying this on my Ender 3. What diameter heat shrink tubing did you use?

[@MakerMaxCorbett]

When you buy it, it comes in a variety pack, so what ever fits over the wires.

[@tawer69]

What is the wire gauge you used ?

[@MakerMaxCorbett]

What ever I had. They draw little power so anything under 22 gauge will work fine.

[@danielthackeray7798]

The insulation on the front side of the LED strip is not adequate for 24v - there is a risk of shorting to the frame. Also, the solder joints to the LEDs, though tiny, create a risk of shorts. Add a protective flexible coating to the strip, around the LEDs. Or, insert a length of filament into the track, one on each side, to keep the front of the strip spaced away from the frame. Or both. The rear of the strip has adequate insulation, especially if the protective layer over the adhesive is left in place. The LED strip can be run below the top rail, using the adhesive backing, to avoid the problem at the corner.

[@MakerMaxCorbett]

I put a piece of heat shrink at every solder joint. Not sure if I mentioned that in the video. You are right about it shorting out.

[@danielthackeray7798]

It's not just the solder joints - the insulation covering the tracks in the flexible strip itself isn't good enough for 24v. This may be dependant on the quality of the LED strips. I have also seen cases where the plastic covering on the front side of the strip is off centre, exposing the edge of the copper track underneath. Slipping a piece of filament in to keep that front surface away from the frame is simple and effective.

[@NgineerOfNoFear]

IP65 rated LED strips are marginally more expensive but have silicone layer on the front which would protect the strip from shorting to the frame.

[@armani007E55]

@@danielthackeray7798 why not just electrical tape in those grooves? Just for that extra layer of protection?

[@smallcnclathes]

Don’t shout at me.

[@retrodog63]

This is bad on your eyes. Those LEDs are almost as bad as lasers if you look at that setup for a long time.

[@MakerMaxCorbett]

Someone put a link in the comments to apply a dimmer to the LEDs.

[@julianchaparro7362]

así lo hice y mi ender se quemó... Muchísimas gracias 😡 I did so and my ender burned ... Thank you very much 😡

[@MakerMaxCorbett]

Burned? No longer works? Not sure why? Sorry.

[@julianchaparro7362]

Maker Max Corbett After putting the 24 volt led and connecting to the power source, the machine turned on and the main board and screen burned. I bought it from aliexpress and I am waiting for it to arrive. Luego de poner los led 24 voltios y conectar a la fuente de energia encendi la maquina y se quemo la tarjeta principal y la pantalla. La compre por aliexpress y estoy esperando a que llegue. 😡😭

[@phminiaturas]

Perhaps you put the wires in the wrong places?

[@jirivaltr560]

What if I have 12 volt strips? Is there any workaround? :)

[@theorangebaron1595]

To step the printers 24v down to 12 volts, use a buck converter. They are about 3 dollars online and they would work perfect for this application!

[@alexflorin04]

I think you could cut a led from the strip, and then wire it in series with the rest and it should work.

[@alexflorin04]

I mean cut until the next connection, depends on the strip**

[@jirivaltr560]

@@alexflorin04 Yeah, I have connected 2 LED strips in series and it works.