How to Choose A The Best Lock For Your Home

How to Choose A The Best Lock For Your Home
Real World, Honest Reviews For Security Products And Tools.
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[@ProfessorOzone]

Very diplomatic. I have a quickset on my front door and I'll come out and say it straight out. Quickset SUCKS! Mine has plastic internals which means I can turn the inside handle about 45 degrees before the deadbolt even moves, that's how much slop there is. In fact, it's become a fire hazard because I have to play with the lock so much to get the bolt to retract. Getting rid of it now, which is why I looked for your video. Thanks.

[@8825able1]

Thanks for posting showing the innards of these popular locks! Now I know to avoid the cheaper quickset locks when purchasing!

[@DonzLockz]

Even when you think you know it all. I always learn something from your video's.👍🙃

[@BriaroniAndCheese]

I have a Kwikset 320KSP sliding door lock. It’s older, and honestly I think Kwikset was a better company back then than it is now. This thing feels much more solid than any newer Kwikset. They seem to have sacrificed their older quality for more modern and sleek cheap stuff

[@waynewinton]

Definition of Lock ‘Grade’ Levels and Lock Security Quality! 1. Grade 1: Most commercial/business locks should be rated at this level. This is the highest grade that Underwriters Laboratory (UL) gives a lock. This grade means that this model lock has withstood 1,000,000 (one million) uses and is still functioning. 2. Grade 2: Commercial/business locks which are used frequently (per day) but are not high use locks should be rated at this level. This is a moderate commercial or high residential use grade by UL. This grade means that this model lock has withstood 500,000 (one half million) uses and is still functioning. 3. Grade 3: Residential locks should be rated at this level or higher. This grade means that this model lock has withstood 35,000 uses and is still functioning. 4. Ungraded: AVOID this quality lock at all costs. This lock has not been tested by UL. 5. High Security: Offer a greater degree of resistance to any or all of the following: picking, impressioning, key duplication, drilling or other forms of forcible entry. Some high security locks offer registered keys (example: Medeco’s patented keyways) so that only the owner can have copies made. True high security locks have been tested and certified by Underwriters Lab and are imprinted with the UL logo. 6. Lifetime Finish: A finish that retains its original luster. This helps inhance the beauty of your home. The finish will only last if the surface of the hardware is undamaged or unscratched.

[@mk062348]

Hi Wayne, I noticed when you took apart the Schlage deadbolt lock that a small piece of metal fell out. Refer time 5:41 on your right side forearm near the orange handled screwdriver. I to had that happen to me. Did you see it? If yes then where does it go?The piece I have is 1/8x1/14.

[@kathyfann]

Thank You so much for your knowledge you share with us I live in California and was broken into and my brother reinstalled cheep locks they are plastic inside. I was totally unhappy when I found out. Got to upgrade for sure. Looking at Mula-T-Lock

[@radodrill]

Any recommendations in terms of euro profile lock cylinders in the US? The storm door we recently purchased came with a euro lock; which not only extends past the trim plates, but also has some of the screws covering the pin chambers are accessible when the lock is installed.

[@waynewinton]

Us lock sells them

[@paulsnider2304]

Good video Wayne your expertise is appreciated on these locks. people just see a good looking package and go with that. Like master locks. Could you do a video explaining the different grades of deadbolts?I just put schlage grade 1 deadbolts on my place. It would be nice to know what difference is between the grades what do you get for your money. Thanks and keep videos coming

[@waynewinton]

Definition of Lock ‘Grade’ Levels and Lock Security Quality! 1. Grade 1: Most commercial/business locks should be rated at this level. This is the highest grade that Underwriters Laboratory (UL) gives a lock. This grade means that this model lock has withstood 1,000,000 (one million) uses and is still functioning. 2. Grade 2: Commercial/business locks which are used frequently (per day) but are not high use locks should be rated at this level. This is a moderate commercial or high residential use grade by UL. This grade means that this model lock has withstood 500,000 (one half million) uses and is still functioning. 3. Grade 3: Residential locks should be rated at this level or higher. This grade means that this model lock has withstood 35,000 uses and is still functioning. 4. Ungraded: AVOID this quality lock at all costs. This lock has not been tested by UL. 5. High Security: Offer a greater degree of resistance to any or all of the following: picking, impressioning, key duplication, drilling or other forms of forcible entry. Some high security locks offer registered keys (example: Medeco’s patented keyways) so that only the owner can have copies made. True high security locks have been tested and certified by Underwriters Lab and are imprinted with the UL logo. 6. Lifetime Finish: A finish that retains its original luster. This helps inhance the beauty of your home. The finish will only last if the surface of the hardware is undamaged or unscratched.

[@FranzFerdinandVIII]

Kwikset always seems to aim for ANSI grade 4.

[@enufots4621]

Working on my first broken deadbolt lock. I have an older single cylinder deadbolt assembly. The problem was that the key kept turning around & around freely from the outside and the knob on the inside turns, but the latch doesn't move. After unscrewing the two screws and removing the knob from the inside...I see that the latch is broken with pieces of metals sitting just below the center hole. I'm guessing that those pieces are what make up the cross pattern mechanism whereby the bar in the back of the key cylinder head inserts into? I wished you had shown the center hole of the Schlage latch. I'm just trying to replace just the latch and it's been hard to find that type of latch with a cross-pattern in the center hold from the big-box stores. Nowadays, it seems all the deadbolt assemblies come with a square shafts that inserts into a similar square shape center hole of the latch assemblies. The shaft on my lock looks like the one you show on the Schlage...just a flat bar ~1/4wide. Another unknown is the distance of the two female posts (to the left & right of the center shaft) that the screws from the internal knob that screws into..are they a standard width? I see latches online with the criss-cross pattern as the center hole but there's no mention of how far apart the holes to the left & right are to ensure they are equally spaced as the posts which are suppose to go into them. I'm tempted to buy a whole deadbolt assembly but I found out that with the newer style locks the bore hole is bigger! Oh man, if not this then that! Anybody know if the Design House brand latch with the criss-cross pattern center hole will work with my lock? Thanks!

[@orestesdd]

Wayne, I just want to add 3.5 inch screws to my strike plate of my front/back doors. However, I would like to know what screws I should buy and why I should buy one type of screws over other types. Thank you.

[@jamesandhoa]

Thanks for your very informative videos Wayne

[@waynewinton]

No problem!

[@fireboy5043]

Thanks For The Info Dude Going Get Me 1 From Lowe's Today My Kwikset Jus Fail Apart Frm the Inside WTF Key Kept Turning in Circles Had Me Lockout My House Until it Finally Jus Fail Apart an all the LiL Pins Came Fallen Out WOW

[@Munky332]

Any good ~50-80$ deadbolts that have semi-decent features, that I can just order and be done with? maybe get a few matching cores to go with a few other house locks? I have 2 main locks, both are kwikset and need to be trashed. I want the hardened pin and hardened faceplate, and I would like some anti-picking/bumping capability as well. I was thinking Medeco, but I can't seem to find any place I can just order? Do I have to call a dealer to get them? Main front door has 2 locks currently, standard kwikset garbage deadbolt with a matching kwikset door knob lock, and the inner garage door has the same matching door knob lock. I'm new to locksport and having raked open and SPP'd all of the locks in my house in under 3 minutes, I need to upgrade them.

[@jeffmoss26]

Great video as always, Wayne!

[@waynewinton]

Nice to here Jeff. Take care.

[@FranzFerdinandVIII]

can you feature a deadbolt from BALDWIN hardware's estate series? 14.Oct.2020

[@nickc3233]

My mistake of the last post. I have many Kwikset and not too many issues with them. I know how to re-tumbler them for another key, for example by taking the cap off and dump all tumblers out. I also have a few US-Lock and do not know how to take them apart without a key. How do you take them apart? Thanks,

[@waynewinton]

you have to pick them to take them apart

[@somenameimtryingtomask]

Could you provide the Schlage lock model you were talking about?

[@FranzFerdinandVIII]

The one featured here is the SCHLAGE B360 single cylinder deadbolt. It is no longer made, as it has been succeded by thd B60.

[@paulsnider2304]

Thanks Wayne I'll look at your other videos where you covered it. Sorry to hear that it only deals with durability and not security

[@waynewinton]

I simply posted the information that I just posted here on other reviews. If you want high security locks check out my videos like "High Security Locks VS Big Box Locks" and "High Security Lock Comparison Medeco, ASSA, Primus"

[@jebidiahflatbush847]

Thank you.

[@DanielField2023]

But they drill the key hole instead take 5 minutes to open the key hole isn't protected against drilling but the Mul T Lock ,and the Medeco are protected at $200 each

[@bird718]

i'm getting a lock ej education watching these videos

[@kolob7]

good job

[@ArturoGarzaID]

What about the bronze kwikset locks?

[@agapephilerostorge]

5:53 best lock

[@savilfrancis9431]

Which model of Schlage it is?

[@FranzFerdinandVIII]

The B360, featured here, is no longer made, as it has been succeded by the B60.

[@savilfrancis9431]

which schelg is that?

[@FranzFerdinandVIII]

Fearured here is the B360, which is no longer made. What you will find now is the B60

[@tamalesychampurado5361]

Schlage Rules!

[@nicholasjaworski9368]

Locks only keep the honest people out

[@mrsfireleg]

Definitely agree. But remember, if we had the technology to send a man to the moon, I don’t think we will ever have enough lock technology to keep a determined person out.

[@64akon]

I'm gonna put a Abloy lock on my home

[@tvbox6955]

ahhh thanks ahhh for ahhh a ahhh nice ahhh video ahhh ahhh ahhh ahhh ahhh

[@rodgerlongPatioCam]

Sadly you chose the wrong Schlage series to show. We locksmiths know those are crap. Nothing locks the bolt in place like the Kwiksets so they are easily pried back with a ice pick or screw driver. And the Kwiksets are made of pot metal not aluminum same as Schlage. Aluminum cost way to much to use in locks. Same with the bolt. That is an older Kwikset bolt also. As far a not being able to drill the Schlage screws, I have done it many times. Best way the prevent drilling of the screws is to insert ball bearing into the holes. Best advice is go to your local locksmith service and buy locks there.

[@waynewinton]

#1. This Schlage series has a layer of anti drill plate covering the the face of the lock protecting the screws from drill attack. I also have had to drill screws dew to broken tail piece or bold assembly. The plate stops all HSS drill bits. The intent of the video is to give the average person who knows nothing about locks a few tips on what to look for, not go into a overwhelming detailed explanation of every tiny detail. #2 The Schlage Locks also has a all brass cylinder and housing the pot metal is filling the area around that. The KW is all pot metal. #3 The matieral used as "pot metal" Is just a combination of a bunch of soft metals including aluminum, zinc, and others that do not rust or corrode. I used the term aluminium as a simple discription for light cheep material once again trying not to focus on the details and boring viewers. In order to identify compromise of a lock it is important to know what the lock components and keys look like when they are used normally. The amount and nature of the wear on components varies and is highly dependent on the lock, key, and component materials. The most common material for pin-tumbler locking cylinders, keys, and components is brass. Cylinders and components (pins, levers, wafers, etc) also commonly use nickel-silver, steel, and other materials. Keys are made from a wide variety of materials besides brass, such as nickel-silver, aluminum, iron, steel, zamak, and various proprietary alloys.

[@cannonball666]

Kwiksets are pure garbage. I tried to unscrew the back side of the deadbolt and the pot metal screw head stripped out. The screw wouldn't budge because it was frozen in the aluminum housing. I then tried to use an EZ-Out to extract the stripped screw and the screw head snapped off. The lock came apart then and I removed the broken screw by turning with channel lock pliers. I then tried to get a Kwikset replacement screw at the two big box stores and they don't carry them. I discovered it was an M5 screw and so replaced it. Metric screw? Kwiksets must be made in China where short light people with small feet can't kick in your door. I ordered a Mul-T-Lock and can't wait to install it.

[@addicted2baseballrgd21]

Kwikset is the Master Locks of doors.

[@tamalesychampurado5361]

Schlage Rules!