How to connect Mamiya RZ67 Pro II to Studio Lighting

#rz67 #digitalback #studio
Quick tutorial to connect your Mamiya RZ67 Pro II to studio lighting, with and without a digital back.
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[@timeisindifferent]

Hi! Is there a list of triggers to use for different brands too? Does anyone know? Thank you!

[@GreenGreenBlossom]

Hi Julio! I honestly don't know what I would do without your channel. I got my Mamiya RZ67 Pro II a few months ago, and almost every question that I had was answered by YOUR videos. So THANK YOU so much for that! I am still super new to photography and I feel like you are my photography teacher :D I could not be more grateful for your channel. I also got a Phase One P30+ digital back to put on Mamiya RZ recently, and I soon realised that I definitely need some strobes, because the digital back seems to work way better in good lighting conditions. So I bought 2 strobe lights yesterday. I have not got the flash trigger/receivers yet, I decided to first get a sync cable which is still yet to arrive in the next few days. But after watching this video some questions raised... Can I even used my P30+ back with the flash sync cable? Based on what I saw in this video it seems like if I connected this cable from the strobe light straight to the digital back's PC port (or whatever it is called), it would not work? Do you have any experience with a cable + digital back or do you only use the flash trigger/receivers?

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Anete Hi! Wow such a sweet comment, I am happy you find some videos helpful. Definitively feel free to ask anything you want, I’m always happy to share any knowledge or experience I had. Yeah, I’ve used all kinds of strobes directly to the digital back’s PC-Sync port, they are just fine, Mamiya will warn you about some strobes using too much power and could damage the camera, but this are very vintage strobes that take like a lot of power, I’ve never even seen one of those super powerful ones and they must be super expensive too. It will work just fine with the cable. 3-5 meters is the usual average for this. But soon you will find is annoying if you want to change your setup to have a cable always hanging from the camera to the first strobe. Of course the other strobe can just react to the first as a slave. Let me know how it goes. Hope it helped.

[@inkaststudio]

You're a wealth of info! Please consider returning to KZbin!

[@KrasimirGeorgievIYI]

I give you the title "Doctor of Science in Medium Format Photography"

[@stephensweeney5331]

Love it, dude : ' some people live vanilla, some people like chocolate - I like profoto.' haha!

[@jamaelismael200]

this guy is awesome!

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Me? Hahaha thank you!! I was high on red bull that day.

[@rayonline78]

Managed to fix your lenses? You had the problem with the shutter speed before sending to Phase One Japan.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Raymond Cho I could have sent them for a checkup but I decided to save my coins. Anyway I rarely need to shoot at 400 and 250 never fails me. So I am using them as they are now.

[@davesuals]

How do I meter or expose for flash on mamiya rz67? What shutter speed and aperture settings for when shooting with say portra 400

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

The calculation of the exposure is made depending on the lighting situation. There has to be a correct balance between speed, aperture and ISO. Since you can’t change your ISO when shooting on film. You have to calculate the remaining values based on your iso. There is a few quick ways to guesstimate the settings, like Sunny 16 or such, of course normally you would need a light meter, an iPhone “Light meter” app can do the trick. But when you talk about flashes, there is no better way than to have a proper light meter on hand. I’ve used flashes of different wattage so I am somewhat aware of how much difference in light is on a 200w vs a 500w vs a 1000w flash, and can guesstimate aproxímate values to get an aceptable exposure. But is just practice. Your eyes should be able to tell the difference on light contrast when shooting a flash, is very fast but you can see if the contrast is too harsh for your eyes. If you are combining flash with natural light then your flash shouldn’t be much more bright than a normal reflector. If you see all white then you are probably overpowering the sun and you would need to compensate for the flash instead of the environment. But it really depends on what you are trying to do. As you can see, is not a quick answer question, there is many techniques and methods to play with the exposure depending on your objective. But I hope I have given you a couple of interesting points to look into.

[@marcossuarez5622]

Hola Julio. En algunos flashes antiguos al conectar el cable de sincronización se desconecta el circuito de la zapata para que funcione en las cámaras antiguas que solo tenían cold shoe, como mi RB67. Creo que vale la pena probar, te permitiría prescindir de la cinta aislante. Es bueno verte con energía de nuevo.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Muchas gracias. Nunca he usado una RB. Pero suena interesante!

[@KerenWang]

Nice to see you back on KZbin Julio! Is your Pro II a D or none D version? Could you suggest a couple of backs? Are there any out there that allow the 6/7 ratio?

[@jacko83]

just use a hand grip.

[@louisosullivan2114]

Does this work with the RB67?

[@jamesbritt4768]

I‘m having a problem capturing an image. I’m using an RZ Pro with a Mamiya M22 back. Right now I’m using an sync cord running from the lens to the back. I think I need the 8pin, but not really sure. Thanks, James

[@가이포크스-f3d]

I own mamiyarz67 pro2. I want to use a digital bag Do I combine HX701 and IQ140M mount together?

[@photorealismstr]

What is the fastest sync speed you can achieve with your setup;I use a Godox ad600 and can only get to 1/200th of a second..

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Sync speed is based on the 35mm dslr because of the curtain system, one curtain opens let’s light in and the other closes. But at certain speeds one curtain is not fully retracted when the next one is closing already, so you would end up with a black shadow on one side when the second curtain is closing already. Mamiya and most MF cameras don’t have curtain system for speed, is a leaf blades shutter system so the speed is the maximum the lens can give you, in the case of the RZ67 is 1/400 of a second. So that’s the answer, more higher speed lenses are available on other cameras, I believe the XF can do 1/8000 but not sure.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Some strobes try to make some series of flashes during different timings, so it will flash as soon as the first curtain reaches the closing gap of the second curtain when the first one is fully retracted, and it will flash again when the first curtain reaches full extraction and the second curtain is covering the area that the first flash triggered on.

[@photorealismstr]

@@RyuuzakiJulio do you sync at 1/400 with your setup ;

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

I do 1/250 most of the time since is ok for just people shooting, but I can do 1/400 with no problems. If you have an rz and its giving you issues at higher speeds, it could actually be the lens itself that is not reaching the higher speeds anymore. If you are using a DSLR then the limits are on the curtain system and some old 35mm cameras don't give you more than 1/60 or 1/125, unless you use one of those specialized fancy strobes that do multiple flashes to accommodate for curtain movement.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Oh, long ago I had an issue but it was because the trigger had other pins, it was made for Nikon and was waiting for some data from a Nikon camera but the RZ doesn’t have those extra pins. Same thing happened with Profoto, I had to get the simple trigger to work with the RZ.

[@andyvan5692]

yes, back is off, as for this to work (manual says how), you treat this like a LF camera, lens is the trigger, flash on the back, but also with this connection the "latency" setting comes into effect, how long to wait for a signal to fire, some backs use the shutter button on the back (e-shutter), others use a long latency mode, where you use the Body shutter, and the long delay is the signal time to get to the back, short is for XF/XT cameras, or the hasselblad H system, where connections are on the back via internal board circuitry inside the body, a lot faster than PC cables.

[@qiuhongyu1274]

Hello Julio, Do you happen to know why my rz67 triggers speedlights twice? once when shutter opens and once when closing. I'm using godox x1t F trigger with godox tt685ii F speedlight, when I use the speedlight alone directly on the hot shoe it also gets triggered twice..

[@freshskater24]

I have the Godox Xpro flash trigger and the Godox SK400ii strobes. The xpro mounts on the RZ67 Pro II perfectly but when I take a shot the strobes does not fire. I even have a hot shoe mount adapter to pc cable that still doesn't work when I attach the trigger to the adapter.

[@michaellu8879]

Glad to see u getting better, keep up

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Thank you so much!

[@OnDaLean94]

hey bro, can you use this strobe with a mamiya 7ii?

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Not sure, never owned one of those. But if they have an xsync or hot shoe mount should be fine

[@oscarlindqvist6268]

Hi Julio, after the Mamiya RZ67 Pro II got the added drilled holes at the back to attach the digital back plate I noticed some people mentioned online that it wont work with the film back again, is this accurate? Cheers!!

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

I have not had the need to drill holes anywhere. And I can use both DB and Film and polaroids with no problem at all. I guess it depends on what adapter plate you get.

[@oscarlindqvist6268]

​@@RyuuzakiJulio Appreciate the input, that's interesting to hear because from what I could pick up from reading forums etc online it seemed fairly clear that any version which is not the Pro II-D would need the drilled holes added to function properly (apparently it could be done by Mamiya)? Quite a few people mentioned once that was done it disabled the use of a film back... Which of the Phase One digital plate adapters do you use for the connection to your DB as I found like 3 different ones and apparently 1-2 does not work at all!? Sorry about the rookie questions I am looking in to selling my whole Nikon system and buy in to a solid digital back and there is no other camera I would rather use than the Mamiya RZ 67, there's simply not enough info out there though as everyone seems to be anti shooting such a cropped factor on a 6x7 camera. Cheers!!

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Oscar Lindqvist 😂 I get what you mean. I guess those forums are extremely old. Or they are just resonating the old ways. Since 2004 (wow already 15 years?!) Mamiya came out with the Pro IID, and with it it came out with its own series of adapters. You asked me which one of the “Phase One Digital Plate Adapters” I’m using. I’ve mentioned in several videos about my setup and why i don’t recommend phase one adapters. Look for a HX-705 if you can or a HX-701. For more info I do have a link talking about adapter plates and digital backs. I don’t have the link at hand right now.

[@zachlowry3078]

Hi Julio, could you specify the adapter as well as the cable you purchased that goes from the digital back to the air remote?

[@Smakuzu]

Just watching this made my day better. Please keep making videos

[@brunomartelli8163]

yes way better than weightloss videos

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Hahaha ouch! But I appreciate the honesty! I have more plans for the RZ. If weather is good I’ll make another one tomorrow outside.

[@filphil9406]

I'd like to know where do you develop your films? I live in Kumamoto and recently got a 67 pro ii, but pretty limited with the lab choices here.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Kumamoto should have many camera shops. Big camera does a decent job. There is a lot of small shops that do 1 hr dev. I’ve published prints and have delivered files for magazines and catalogs just out of Big Camera service and looks great.

[@filphil9406]

@@RyuuzakiJulio Thank you. I'll give it a try with Bic Camera.

[@luissalazar2021]

Julio , me puedes hacer un favor de conectarme con alguien que tenga lentes, RB67 210mm , 180mm , 140mm, 65mm kL gracias 😎❤️🇺🇸

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Luis Salazar supongo que los quieres comprar. La verdad no tengo ninguna lista de vendedores, todo lo que compro lo compro en eBay o en tiendas aquí en Tokyo que encuentro caminando. Aparte la verdad no me gusta la RB, tiene muchas desventajas sobre la RZ Pro II que yo siempre recomiendo.

[@TheRealHarrypm]

2. Dont use premiere mode your not a TV Network 😂

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Good point, maybe Ill do for some live retouching or live photoshoot if possible or something. Just that every time I was trying to upload KZbin was bugging me to make it premiere. Was fun tho.

[@TheRealHarrypm]

@@RyuuzakiJulio Hey would you be interested in doing like a duel photographers live stream sorta thing?

[@jaggercikke]

Hola Julio, I would like to get your input, I have a mamiya afd II with aptus 22, and I really love the quality of the pics and those hyperrealistic details that only medium format provides, BUT any idea how to tether to a mac, tried everything, several cables, firewire power hubs, adapters, and tried more than 3 macs. I do a lot of food photography and also shoot with canon 1Dx, mostly tethered and I want to switch 100% to medium format... any input will be appreciated. Gracias!

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Dennis Garcia the Aptus 22 can connect directly almost to any computer. What’s your computer like? MacBook Pro? Thinkpad?

[@jaggercikke]

Julio Ryuuzaki I use a macbook pro retina por shooting and also a iMac 27 at home also tried an old mac Pro and an old imac 24 both with native firewire 400. The systems/sotwares cannot detect but did power up the db. Tried capture one, old a and new versions, leaf capture software and nothing, all this using original cable and powered hub and thunderbolt firewire adapter with the newer macs. I’m clueless now.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

I used to do tether with a MacBook Pro. Capture one should be fine. Is there a chance the cable has a few treads broken? Not power but data.

[@jaggercikke]

Julio Ryuuzaki I thought of that and tried a few other cables as well... I’m thinking the firewire port on the DB could be the one with the issue, it looks very robust and protected but what else could it be? You’re telling me that you had no problems with your MBP and the aptus, and that’s good to know! I’ll keep trying with the MBP and try other cables and adapters, did you use a MBP with native firewire or used an adapter? If nothing works, I might need to carefully open the DB and check the port solders ... not too crazy about his option.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

I just used a direct connection with the MacBook Pro. It was the model previous to the retina but even after updating to retina it still works. Sometimes there is some communication issues but it does work just fine. No hub no adapter or anything like that. Just cable and MacBook Pro

[@XLafielX]

Hello Julio, I have a question for u since i have been hitting my head against a wall couple day now because i havent gotten this work, but i have Mamiya Rz67 pro ii, Leaf aptus 75 digital back and 110 mm mamiya lens, i want to connect this to my godox 850v ving flash wirelessly and i tried to get the adapter for hotshoe and it worked, flash was firing and digital back also show that im connected but in the photos i dont see flash effect at all i only see it when i slow down the shutter speed slower than 1/15. Please help me Julio i really want this to work >

[@flannelcommander]

Hi there. Did you figure it out? I maybe able to help you out.

[@ShreyansDungarwal]

Hey man, your video was very helpful but I have a small doubt. I'm using rb67 and I have got Profoto air TTL trigger - is there any possible way to get my air TTL connected to rb67 ?? I've been looking for the PC sync cable which can connect to air TTL but unable to find :/

[@michaelabio]

Hey Shreyans! Did you find a solution ? I have the same problem :)

[@chaneykansas]

can u do same with an rb?

[@CS-gb1ul]

Does that particular Phase One back sync with the Profoto lights (wireless) without the external trigger? And If so, how does that work with the sync cable?

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

E Mase this particular digital back doesn’t connect directly with the profoto. I think you are referring to the feature that Mamiya made for a V-Grip for the 645 on the year 2010. And the feature that now the Phase One XF Camera has. I’m not sure if any digital back have that feature.

[@pecherrr]

Thanks for the very informative video! Does the trigger sync at every shutter speed when connected to the lens?

[@cowboyyoga]

Thank you Julio )))

[@Rovertt]

Hey Julio, Thank you for all your videos. I've learned so much about the Mamiya RZ67. Is there a way to trigger Profoto lights if using a Profoto Air TTL remote on the Mamiya RZ67?

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

tfinneman TTL is not possible with the Mamiya. That technology didn’t even existed.

[@Rovertt]

@@RyuuzakiJulio Thank you for the reply. I'm not trying to use Profoto's TTL function with the Mamiya RZ67. I only want to trigger Profoto lights with my Profoto Air TTL remote in manual mode. Unfortunately, the Profoto Air TTL remote does not have the sync cord port that your Profoto Air remote does in your video.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

tfinneman it should work directly with the hot shoe adapter. But it will be hard to fit. If anything there is hot shoe extensions that won’t disturb the signal like my adapter does. Just set the trigger for manual instead of TTL if there is an option for that.

[@Rovertt]

@@RyuuzakiJulio --The Profoto Air TTL remote fits the RZ67 and doesn't interfere with the focusing knobs. I'm able to trigger the flash without issues. Thanks for your help!

[@che6953]

@@Rovertt Hey, Happy new year! What type of TTL Remote do you use because most of them seem to be fitted to Sony or Canon etc which I assume wouldn't work?

[@luissalazar2021]

Cool 😎 Bro, keeps up with the good work. I love the Mamiya 😎❤️🇺🇸

[@luissalazar2021]

Do you have any name that you can recommend me, please thanks 😎❤️🇺🇸

[@MrPippec]

Dracula

[@D_L_J_83]

Can you shoot with that phaseone back in a vertical/portrait orientation? :)

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Yeah, absolutely, thats the good thing of the RZ. With the adapter you can rotate

[@rafaelarias6056]

If there a way to test shot a small trigger on the RZ67 without film in the camera?

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Yeah just use M mode.

[@moseyape9198]

gangster

[@yousafgaming-f1d]

nice

[@domenicming9551]

Hey Julio, I saw your video of you making adjustments to your RZ. Since you know so much about the camera do you think you can walk me through fixing mine? It's an electronic issue in the body, not the lens

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

I have never opened the camera, but I do have a basic trouble shooting video on the RZ, it shows that most of the RZ problems are caused by user settings instead of the camera being actually broken. Perhaps battery or something.

[@domenicming9551]

@@RyuuzakiJulio Word, thank you

[@TheRealHarrypm]

1. First!

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Skills

[@TheRealHarrypm]

@@RyuuzakiJulio i has them.....

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

You got more moves than Mc Jaggy

[@TheRealHarrypm]

@@RyuuzakiJulio Indeed i do Good video btw

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Thank you so much. I had to cut off a lot. So it took me a while to upload.

[@leeanthony3687]

Does that also work on hasselblads ?

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

That?

[@luissalazar2021]

Can you please recognize any name that I can trust? Thanks

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Luis Salazar for old equipments there is no guarantee, I do the eBay gamble and I have got good experiences. But if you have the coins, then find a seller, maybe on Craigslist and go visit and check in person. Or a big camera store like BnH or so.

[@1989Goodspeed]

Super cool video and setup!

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Oh my thank you so so much. I’m sorry I don’t have a big production like many big channels. I promise I’m trying my best.

[@1989Goodspeed]

@@RyuuzakiJulio Production value can be many things, you got personality and that goes a long way👍. If you look at what I put out, I basically have a personality like a brickwall 😆

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Hahaha a lot of people do like the industrial look of brick walls, specially for interiors. But I see what you meant, you do tend to have your eyes flying all over the place and your hands clap and scrub a lot, but the video contents is interesting, I am half way looking at the Hasselblad moon video. But everyone started making shitty videos, it only gets better with time and the more you do it the better you get. The important thing is to get up and do it, even if people hates on it at first.

[@1989Goodspeed]

@@RyuuzakiJulio Ok, cool. Thanks for the feedback, sometimes one needs a second pair of eyes to spot what can be improved/payed attention to, so thank you!

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

I know im missing it a lot of my videos too, but some B-Roll shoots while you are talking is also nice so is not a 15 minute video of someone sitting on a chair and talking, I like your popups images, but since we don't have different cameras to put different camera angles, some other videos of footage works nice.

[@whatistau]

Hey! Love your vids, very helpful! Can you talk about lens extension tubes , how they work on diff lenses, with picture examples that would be super help!

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Wish I could, I do have both extension tubes but I just have 3 lenses, the thing is that the more extended the lens is the more close the focus range will be. If you put both extension tubes and the 180mm lens per example, the only way to focus anything will be to almost have it touching the lens glass for it to be on focus.

[@whatistau]

@@RyuuzakiJulio thanks for reply! for example with a 250, and i want to have only models face in frame (witch is out of focus, so i would have to step back) having a extention tube will allow to have a closer framing when having a model in focus?

[@pideedee2559]

This was dope!

[@bennozoid1]

This REALLY helped! THANKS!

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

It can be a mess but once you get it, it always makes sense. Thank you for the comment. 🙏

[@bennozoid1]

Julio Ryuuzaki My biggest concern now is which trigger / strives to buy. I live in Qatar, so need to ship them. Will Godox equipment be OK?

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

For the price is pretty good. Profoto is perfect in all ways except price. I sold my profoto and got Godox. And never been happier. Is not as good with light color (sometimes shoots white sometimes a little warm) profoto is always the same. But other than that. Godox is the winner.

[@bennozoid1]

Julio Ryuuzaki Thanks so much for taking the time to reply! Your videos have been SO useful in understanding the Mamiya and all the technical issues!🙏🏻

[@bennozoid1]

Julio Ryuuzaki Sorry Julio: LAST question I promise: the Godox transmitters are all for different brands (canon, Sony etc). Does it matter which transmitter I buy??.....

[@Star_fucks]

I got a question about what is the fastest shutter speed you can use for leaf shutter with flash?

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

Hi David, I’ve talk about it on a few videos. Sync shutter speed issues are because 35mm cameras have a curtain mechanism where one side opens and the other side start to close before the first one is completely open. The RZ doesn’t use that mechanism so you can sync flashes without any problems to any speed the camera can give you. For the RZ is around 1/400 of a second thanks to the leaf shutter on the lenses. Hope I answered your question.

[@Star_fucks]

@@RyuuzakiJulio Cool, thank you so much. Because I have a Mamiya RB67 which is a mechanical camera, only the lens got a PC port and I'm worried about it. But now I got the answer.

[@RyuuzakiJulio]

David Shan Yes, nothing to worry, it would sync to any speed, you don’t need special strobes or anything. Any flash on manual will fill your photo completely you will never get side shadows like on 35mm (unless something is actually blocking the view of the lens lol)