How to Fill an Accusump and Why You Need it

[@AndyFuntown]

I've been going back through your backlog of videos and I just want to say as a club racer just trying make it work - THANK YOU. Invaluable for us. 🙏

[@jpm]

Always glad to help!

[@thefortniteman5898]

I enjoyed your video. You did great job describing the fluid activity and you included some trouble saving issues with underfilling/overfilling, closing the valve off the track. This is an excellent video. I'm going to put one on a Subaru for a track race customer. Never seen these before.

[@jpm]

Glad it helped. They are an engine saving device for track cars for sure!

[@mikekrog856]

Perfect real use case advice. Thanks for the video! Seems like guys can have oil levels all over the place with an oil accumulator installed.

[@RobertEHunt-dv9sq]

Jesse, excellent presentation on the operation of the Accusump. Thanks for posting. Keep them coming, very educational.

[@jpm]

Thanks for watching, appreciate the compliments and we always have fun stuff coming through the shop!

[@FProd88]

Those mounting brackets need to be at the ends of the Accusump cylinder!

[@jpm]

There is a good balance point and often times, the mount is what dictates where the straps go.

[@jpm]

Credit where credit is due, you are right Paul - a misunderstanding of your comment and I did fix the brackets so they are at the ends! Thanks for watching and keeping me honest!

[@FProd88]

I will be reaching out to you for parts soon👍👍👍

[@jpm]

Sounds good Paul - talk to ya soon

[@rowanlewisuk]

Thankyou for sharing your experience and knowledge on this Accusump

[@jpm]

Always trying to help!

[@brianlambertp.t.6499]

An engineer friend of mine showed me Boyle's Law (P1V1=P2V2) as a way of figuring out how much oil in in the accumulator. I've had a 2 qt Accusump on my FRS street/track car for 3 years.

[@RyanPine]

I am currently trying to put an accusump on my BRZ/FRS/86. Do you have any advice or could give me any pointers, the install is a little intimidating, any help is appreciated!

[@brianlambertp.t.6499]

@@RyanPine A few months ago wrote a post on the ft86club forum about my install. Good info there.

[@Darkvoidproductions1]

So just so I understand correctly.. On a cold start, you'd open the valve for the sump to release the pressure to pre oil the engine before starting.. BUT once the engine dose start, do you quickly close the valve and wait for the engine to build its own pressure before trying to refill the sump? OR would you just leave it open / partially open while the engine is running to let it refill right away? Defiantly don't want to defeat the purpose of avoiding a dry start by following the engines start with starvation since once its running it may favor refilling the sump vs continuing to oil the engine like necessary

[@jpm]

You are close. Once you open the accusump, give it a second to pressurize the system then close the accusump. Start the engine and let the oil pressure come up. Once normal, I open the valve on the accusingly a little bit, not all the way. Maybe half. Let the accusump fill back up with the oil pressure of the engine and once full, you can leave it open for that session. Don’t forget to close it before turning the engine off.

[@satanz3111]

I watched this entire video and have to assume you’re out on the track racing with the valve open. So whatever pressure the oil pump is producing, is what you see in the accusump. Then if the oil pump sucks air, the accusump pushes back against the loss of pressure, the check valve closes and oil from the accusump is diverted into the engine. Is this correct, racing with the valve open?

[@jpm]

Yes, you just described exactly what the Accusump does. It will fill in the void that his left from any pressure drop along the way, for a limited amount of time, of course.

[@hondaslave-kd6hi]

What if you had a electric valve tied to your ignition and a toggle switch? Could you do it the same as your manual valve? Just turn it off and on?

[@jpm]

Yes, you can and some guys do it this way. I like a manual valve because you can reload the Accusump slowly. With a switch, the valve is either open or closed. This way you can crack it open and rather than steal a majority of the flow from the engine, you just use a little bit to slowly fill the container and then open it 100% for the track.

[@Schmitty_Luv2]

Might have been better off making a secondary video called “accusump trouble shooting/diagnosis for intermediate accusump users”… because you got a lot more technical towards the end regarding morning track day oil pressure at the accusump tank vs dip stick level…… just saying, you went from explaining how an accusump works from a 101 level to how certain nuanced things happen once it’s being used out on track.

[@williammcdonnell4677]

"Next step to make this project easy, pull your spark plugs out real quick" Me with a Subaru .... shit

[@jpm]

Yeah, the not so fast job on a Subaru…

[@lauriedooker1031]

Yeh , thanks very clear about dangers and benefits . 👍🇦🇺❤️

[@hummervs3278]

Add a T fitting at the accumulator with a hydraulic quick disconnect that is self closing (I prefer Parker brand). Oil change time: Open valve, drain oil as if normal oil change. Before filling oil, vent air from accumulator. Close the valve. Now with a pneumatic (pressure&vacuum) tool used for extracting oils - usually 9 liters white plastic tank with handle on top that looks like a bicycle pump- You put the other end of the hydraulic self closing quick disconnect on it. Your oil goes in that tool. Pressurized by either hand pump or shop air-you add oil into the accumulator. Release tool pressure. Disconnect tool from new T and install dust cover fitting for the QD. Before you crank the engine for oil pressure- open the valve. It is now charged and protects your engine for the dry start after an oil change just like is does every morning you start it. But this time is more critical because you were cranking 10-20 seconds dry. Normal start is 1-2 seconds crank time. And now with that $80 oil change tool you can flush the old oil out of your oil cooler with new oil by adding two more quick disconnects (1 male 1 female) in the cooler line but these you do NOT want self closing.

[@stansmith-h2b]

I have the air pressure just under the running oil pressure. It pushed the oil back into the engine at close to the running pressure. You have the Accusump mounting clamps in the wrong place. They are likely to crush the tube onto the piston. They are supposed to be at each end on the threaded part of the tank.

[@808touge]

Best detailed explanation I have seen. It makes sense in a race setting. How to set this up on a street car idk. Have a pressure sensor control an electric valve?

[@GCCRacing]

Thanks for posting. Useful. Any chance you could do something similar using an electronic valve?

[@jpm]

Yes, they do make electronic valves that are usually tied to the ignition switch. With a manual valve, you can slowly refill the accusump once pressure is up rather than reducing overall pressure from a fully open valve. Both ways work, I just like the way a manual valve gives you a bit more control and adds to the usefulness of the accusump.

[@GCCRacing]

Ah OK. I was rather hoping that you could do a demo of achieving the same approach using an electric valve. Maybe even demonstrate how one could pulse the valve to control flow into the accusump so as not to deplete the engines oil pressure. As you have kindly demonstrated in your vid.

[@jpm]

@@GCCRacing I don't use electronic valves simply because I've seen too many of them fail. They even make a cable specifically for if you can't reach the valve easily.

[@ds98136]

So let’s say you have the correct amount of oil in the accusump and oil pan by following the process you described. What happens when your oil pressure drops slightly in a slow corner because the engine RPM drops. I’m not talking dangerously low oil pressure drops just, 60 down to 35 psi or so. Wouldn’t the accusump then push oil, slightly overfilling the oil pan and engine side of things? Is this over filling insignificant for the short period? Seems like the electric valve option wouldn’t do this if the correct pressure switch is fitted.

[@jpm]

In your scenario, the oil pressure is dropping because of the oil in the pan moving away from the pickup tube. The ideal thing is for the Accusump to compensate for that, by increasing pressure and adding oil to the system where it needs it (hint: make sure you plumb it correctly to feed the engine, not feed the pan). Will your oil pan accumulate more oil? Yes. Will your oil pressure maintain? Yes. Will the excess oil make it back into the accusump? Yes. This is a temporary problem that the accusump is fixing and will go back to a stand by state when the overall pressure goes back to normal. Using a pressure activated switch defeats the overall purpose of the accusump. It is meant to minutely fluctuate with the pressure of the engine, not just dump oil when it is too low. You can put this on a switch, instead of a manual valve, but that would be a on/off switch only.

[@deankay4434]

Do you have a ball valve on that choke cable? As an ASE Master since 78, mechanic for years before, folks don't realize that when the engine is running a 5 qt. system, 1 - 2 qts. are in the upper, middle and gallery's that hold oil running or dripping back to the oil pan. So W/5 qts. oil capacity, only 3 are in the pan. Baffles and old school smoothing or painting the valley to assist oil "Run Back" during a fast interstate circle turn, centrifugal force move pan oil to the side, the pickup tube is naked sucking air. Volume is needed to produce pressure and for 5-12 seconds, oil pressure is zero.

[@csk485]

Wow this was a very detailed and informative video thank you very much! Told me everything I was curious about and more.

[@jpm]

Good deal and glad to hear. These systems can save you $1,000’s of dollars if done right. Thanks for watching!

[@callofgeorge]

not sure about the efi sytem you have, but i can hear the fuel pump priming.. so are your injectors not firing while you're turning the engine over? seems like you'd want to pull the fuel pump relay during pressurizing procedure.

[@Matt44magnum44]

This was very informative, I just bought a accusump with electric solenoid valve. I think I’m going to put a toggle switch inside the car in parallel with the solenoid valve to actuate the valve to fill up the accusump after oil changes. Did you fill up the accusump with oxygen? I have read that they should have nitrogen as it is a inert gas. Interested to hear your thoughts thanks for reading

[@jpm]

You know, at these low air volumes in an Accusump, I am not sure you would see a difference when using Nitrogen instead of regular air from a compressor. The inert gas is good in tires because of the temperature swings and the pressures stay close to the same. Also, the accusump can be off a few pounds (plus or minus) and you wouldn't know the difference, just as long as it pushes the excess oil when required. Some good food for thought though!

[@alaincastellano6228]

Jesse I have a question for you I would really appreciate your help if over filled my engine with 1/2 quart more of oil when I was filling my accusump can I drain that half of quart from the oil pan with my accusump closed or do I need to pressurize my accusump again?

[@jpm]

Drain it from the pan with your accusump closed. No need for pressure/volume increase for that adjustment.

[@Mp-jw1qg]

do you have to add additional oil to compensate for the volume of the cylinder?

[@jpm]

Good question - Yes! Depending on the size, you will need to add in that much more. It is always good to get the accumulator full and check your oil level as you always do to verify. A two quart accumulator may not hold all two quarts, so take note of what it does need.

[@PandBMotorsports]

Excellent presentation. Can you comment on the situation where the entire lubrication system has been drained and cleaned -- lines, cooler and Accusump? Should oil be placed in the cooler and lines (as much as possible) before filling the Accusump?

[@jpm]

I'm sorry I'm just now seeing your comment. If your accucusump is empty and your lines and filter and cooler is all empty you need to first pull the spark plugs, put oil in the engine, close the accusump valve and spin the engine to first get oil pressure. Watch the end of the video and it explains some of this as well. Thanks for watching!

[@RedCoat232]

Most people I have seen with these are in a racecar and placed in the passenger foot-well. Could you place one in the trunk and run longer lines if you want to keep your passenger area clear for use by people? I have an expensive build going and I like the idea of protecting my bearings by pre-oiling prior to starting.

[@jpm]

Sure, you might be able to do that. Keep in mind that the longer the lines are, the more time it will take to refill the Accusump. The more time you are taking to refill, the less pressure you have in the engine, so it would be crucial to fill it with a manual valve and do it sloooowly. There will be a point of diminishing returns where the accusump will not be able to fully pressurize the system, due to the volume of oil needed. Always try to keep the lines as short as possible for best results. Alternatively, you can look at mounting it behind the passenger seat or just in front of the seat. Hope that helps and thanks for watching!

[@schwartzluke9492]

Great informative video !

[@chrisbjurman3019]

Very good info, I'm now putting together a system on a Miata because of your video. what size hose are you using or recommend for routing from the filter sandwich plate to oil cooler and T fitting assembly back to the block, also the line for the accusump. the T fitting assembly looks like 6 AN stuff Thanks, keep the videos coming.

[@jpm]

I run 10an on all of my accusump and oil cooling systems. 6an is what I use for fuel ines. You can never go wrong with Accusump Insurance! It's an easy decision! You race the Miata , I assume? What have you done to it?

[@jpm]

Also - Appreciate you watching and the compliments! I am just doing my part to spread good racing knowledge out there.

[@chrisbjurman3019]

@@jpm just getting started, bought a used 97 miata caged car that was for races only, a lot of wiring issues and lack of maintenance, had to stripped weight off of it that is not used and fix the wiring, and lowered the seat, what happen to the rest of your miata build, you ended it at 3 videos with the cutting of the fenders, what size wheel and tire are you running with the fiberglass fenders?

[@jpm]

@@chrisbjurman3019 That was an F Production miata. I didn't show everything that happened to that car but they have to run 15 X 7 wheels for that class. Minimal offset on the wheels plus spacers to widen the car up though.

[@raho24781]

awesome and informative Thank you the Machinist just let me know about this system ive been watching KZbin videos as homework you are the 1st one to Thorouly to inform me plus and Minus and what to look for Thank you so much and my MoToR Thank you ~!!!

[@jpm]

No problem - thanks for watching!

[@capnthepeafarmer]

What's your thoughts on using the electric pressure switch version of the oil accumulator?

[@jpm]

The manual valve allows me to dump the accusump prior to starting then close it off during startup. After it is running, I will slowly open the valve to refill with starving the engine of oil. With a switch, it’s open or closed and if it is tied to your ignition, you will lose a bit of pressure refilling the accusump. It’s the way I like to do it but have seen it done other ways. I've also seen the electric valves fail more than once. A manual valve can't fail!

[@beanz1540]

This is where I'm confused. I have an accusump on my drift car for an ls7. I have not fired the motor yet, but with the accusump if I have it fill at idle oil pressure but it is not filled all the way, when I get on throttle hard it will fill the accusump more correct? If that's the case can't I starve the system because it is filling the accusump instead of going to the motor?

[@jpm]

Good question and thanks for asking! When you are at idle, your accusump is full and pressurized. So when you get on it, it all stays the same since it is part of the system. If you watch your oil pressure gauge, you will see some fluctuation, but that would be the same as any system. The Accusump benefit is simply extra capacity that is matched to the system pressure. Will the pressure drop when you get on it? Hardly, if at all, since the entire system has the same pressure. The accusump buys you a few extra, precious seconds when things start to go bad, but also compensates if you have an oil pickup problem - ideally this should be solved with a better baffle plate or a change to the oil pickup to prevent starvation.

[@Vittinable]

I think I get what you are saying Beanz, I have an LS1 with the same accusump and oil pressure at iddle is around 50psi hot but at 3k to 6k rpm is around 60psi and you can see the accusump gauge goes up in pressure from 60psi to 70psi but like JPM Performance said, at that point, your accusump is already full, pressure increases a bit but there's no oil actually going into it (not significantly at least). Make sure you have your base pressure on the accusump set correctly, I think between 10-15psi when its empty, and it will fill with iddle pressure. In my case, with 15psi on it, when its empty, I have around 50psi of oil in the engine, when I open the accusump it drops to about 30psi for 4-5 seconds then stabilizes again 50lbs. When I rev the engine at that point I can see the dial on the accusump go up with engine oil pressure, but that oil pressure itself is not going down (so very little or no oil is being added to it by the extra pressure). Hope that helps clear it up.

[@beanz1540]

@@Vittinable this clears it up completely. Thank you for the information. It makes alot more sense now

[@jpm]

@@Vittinable The only bit I would add is that IF you have a manual valve, you can slowly refill that accusump by partially opening the valve once the engine is running. That way, you don't have that pressure drop you are talking about.

[@seethruhead7119]

So why can't you leave the accusump open at all times? (I guess except with filling your oil?)

[@jpm]

The oil system of your car has areas of air (the oil pan) that exceed the volume of oil the accusump can keep pressurized. When the oil pump is running, it will compensate if there is a sudden change - The oil pump stops, the oil supply is not near the pickup tube, or you have a large exit point in your block, for a short while.

[@CoyoteKid60]

Fantastic explainer! Thanks!

[@supernice_auto]

I have a 900whp mitsubishi evolution street car that gets driven mostly on the weekends- however it sometimes sit for weeks on end so I'd like to add an accusump to my set up for cold starts- how much of a difference do you think it makes in terms of preventative start up wear?

[@jpm]

The primary job of the Accusump is maintaining pressure in your oil system while running, but a nice side benefit is the ability to pressurize the system before startup, which floats those bearings and lessens wear for sure.

[@supernice_auto]

@@jpm thank you! I'm going to give it a go.

[@jpm]

Well worth the investment in your engine!

[@PatrickLipsinic]

Who's check valve is that?

[@jpm]

I get those check valves from Pegasus. Canton makes them.

[@chrisgoddard6045]

How much pre charge do I need on accusump

[@jpm]

I prefer about 10-15 psi

[@noampitlik2332]

That was great, but is that cannister location really allowed?

[@3rdGenGuy]

well, that explains why I started leaking oil on track. I overfilled my engine.

[@jpm]

Oh! Hope the video showed you how to fill it the right way!

[@mikelong3444]

🔥🔥🔥

[@marymurphy7167]

It seems to me that you’ve defeated the entire purpose of the accuse people. Shouldn’t you have filled the accusump first with pressurized oil. Before spinning a dry engine? I am no expert whatsoever. So just a question in general

[@jpm]

I suppose there is a way you could do that, but the way I look at it, if you do it right (slowly), it will be the last time you start your engine without being pre-lubed and the average car does that every day. We are just trying to extend the life of the engine with a safety measure here. Really, at no point is the engine "dry" even after a fresh rebuild (Assembly lube).

[@JMcDGolf84]

Your math isn't making sense... You installed 5qts of oil "over filling", and you have a 3qt Accusump... which means that you would be short on oil once the Accusump is filled... you checked your oil after filling the accusump and you said it was perfect...?? How can hat be unless the accusump doesnt have 3 quarts in it...?

[@jpm]

The precharge on the back side of the piston in the accusump prevents the piston from going all the way back. Thus a 3 qt accusump will actually never have that much in it. Hope this makes sense. You need the precharge on the back side to make sure the piston will go all the way forward in a total oil pressure loss situation.

[@lilyanimate7266]

seems to me like an overly complicated way to accomplish a very simple thing there are much better and easier ways to do this and your making some really wild assumptions. you put in oil then pumped it all into the accumulator while at the same time turning over the engine with no oil going to it hahahaha you silly