Protecting your Off Road Engine - Tech Tuesday

One of the most expensive parts of your Rock Bouncer or Trail Rig is the engine. From the factory your engine is not designed to survive the crazy angles and abuse it can see in your off road toy. Well today on Tech Tuesday Jake Burkey of the Busted Knuckle Off Road Shop is going to show you some items you can add to your rig for some much needed Engine Insurance. Oil is the life blood of your engine. The extreme angles your engine sees when off road can make your engine starve for oil and lose oil pressure. Here are a few tips on how to maintain proper off road oil pressure. First off you want to run a good oil pump that is not a high flow or high volume oil pump. Secondly you want to use an oil pan that is baffled to keep your oil from sloshing around when on a hill or obstacle. We sell an Fbody oil pan kit that is shallow and baffled to keep oil flowing and allow your engine to sit lower in your rig. Last but probably one of the most important is an Oil Accumulator. An oil accumulator is a pressurized cylinder that holds extra oil. It is hooked to your engine so when your oil pressure drops it can automatically add more oil to the system to keep your oil pressure where it needs to be. This can happen when you are at a steep angle or rollover and back on to your tires. It will only help maintain your oil pressure for a short period of time (maybe 15 seconds). It WILL NOT save your engine if you run it upside down, just ask Jake how he knows. Some people call it the poor man's dry sump system but we just call it good engine insurance. We hope you enjoy the new series Tech Tuesday as we build off of our old series of Rock Rods Tech Tip videos.
#TechTuesday #OilAccumulator #EngineInsurance
Accumulators: bustedknuckleoffroad.com/coll...
LS Baffled Oil Pan: bustedknuckleoffroad.com/prod...
Let us know what topics on how to build a rock bouncer or trail rig you would like to see covered next and be sure to check us out for all of your busted knuckle off road parts and accessories needs- www.bustedknuckleoffroad.com

[@davsmth41]

Just adding my .02. Years ago ( I’ m old) we used the accumulators to prime our dirt track engines before we started them. So right before shutdown, close the valve. Right before startup, open the valve. Oh, always appreciate your videos. Well done.

[@BustedKnuckleOffRoad]

You can do that for sure, especially if the vehicle sits for a long period of time.

[@neoscot9091]

You can add a solenoid switch to your ignition and then it will automatically open every time you turn the ignition on right before starting

[@deankay4434]

As an retired ASE Master Tech since 1978, I am jumping off the beaten path with this comment. How many drive home with a vehicle equipped with “Auto stop-Auto start” systems. Trucks & cars alike suffer from the loss of that crucial hydrodynamic lubricant wedge! Racing or hill climbing is one thing, but if you don’t lease your vehicle or trade it in every two years, I would instal one with a solenoid wired to the starter solenoid. I want my engine to have oil pressure quicker than the slow drip of death sitting at a red light. Some would argue that oil is between the rods & mains, but a what pressure? None! I want a minimum of 5-10 PSI that happens to be slightly more than a switch for an idiot light specs. You can find room and an oil gallery to tap into. Galleries are cast into the block, drilled, honed and threaded cap installed. Hey, it is better to have a good engine in your buggy but also a way to tow it home. Unless you want to spend time to defeat the Auto off system by running the A/C on max during a -9 degree F winter in February! Your choice.

[@BustedKnuckleOffRoad]

that is definitely something to think about

[@deankay4434]

@@BustedKnuckleOffRoad I found out that trucks have an over ride switch. Most likely for towing, but I would like to look at a schematic to see it goes into un-used terminal on the PCM or what. The A/C control and dash response is most likely all class-2 serial data signals. So, even if PCM is programmed for it, it would be hard to create the correct input to over-ride. I will work on that thought after I talk the guys I worked at dealer. I bet they have a pump inside the trans to keep it ready for first gear as well. DK, Omaha

[@ZJ_Rubicon]

Even though I do not have a rock bouncer and probably never will I love these tech videos and watch them even if I can’t use the product on my rig.

[@BustedKnuckleOffRoad]

Glad you enjoy them.

[@gafrers]

Clear and simply explained as always.

[@BustedKnuckleOffRoad]

Glad you liked it

[@woodchuck243]

Great video Jake.... I'm going install one of these on my truck thanks again Jake

[@BustedKnuckleOffRoad]

Right on!

[@BumDog2112]

Awesome explanation!!!

[@BustedKnuckleOffRoad]

Thanks. We tried to make it as short and concise as possible.

[@jeffyoung2089]

Thanks Jake!

[@BustedKnuckleOffRoad]

Glad to help!

[@GrimRZR]

Great info. Back drop looks good too

[@BustedKnuckleOffRoad]

We are trying to step up our lighting game with these videos. Glad someone noticed!

[@GrimRZR]

Its been on my mind to. Lot more to cool videos than just good info. 👍

[@BustedKnuckleOffRoad]

Truth.

[@HangryDiesel]

Great video, if your running an oil cooler how would you recommend the plumbing of the accumulator? Thanks

[@denverkenyon3203]

I go off roading with a 1991 s10 blazer. It has the 4.3, which has the deep oil pan (to clear the front diff from factory) and I haven’t lost oil pressure on steep angles yet, and neither has bleepinjeep, so this really only applies to shallow pans

[@BustedKnuckleOffRoad]

It is good insurance if you ever roll over though

[@swstrand]

Hey Jake, Could you do a in depth video on cooling systems for rigs, sizes for different applications, all fluids, and parts recommended.

[@BustedKnuckleOffRoad]

good idea!

[@zaxpage9003]

I would try to run the dry sump system from a corvette....I assume that would cure a lot of oiling issues. I imagine they aren't cheap.

[@BustedKnuckleOffRoad]

complicated and expensive. These things work just fine.

[@Maakaavelli]

Love this series

[@BustedKnuckleOffRoad]

1.75" DOM tubing made in USA

[@Maakaavelli]

@@BustedKnuckleOffRoad thanks 👊

[@BustedKnuckleOffRoad]

Anytime.

[@forreststrong797]

What size hose do you typically use to plumb this using AN fittings and hose? Also how would I go about installing an accumulator like this on a jeep 4.0 engine? I'm guessing the 1/8 NPT pressure sensor hole is too small to tap into? So maybe a sandwich plate at the oil filter or do you have any recommendations for a 4.0? It's plumbed using 1 hose tapped into the oil system right? and when or if pressure is lost it releases its contents into the engine buying a little time? I'm very interested in installing one of these on my jeep I'm just trying to think of where to plumb it on the engine, I don't really want to run a sandwich plate if I don't have to. I already added an extra 1/8 npt port for my oil temp sensor next to the oil pressure sensor its a little crowded, depending on the hose size I think I'd have to go straight to the block at the larger thread where an oem adapter usually is that reduces it from 3/8 or 1/4 npt to the little 1/8 thread.

[@Auto-Anything1231]

We use an10 size hose

[@maxmagan1238]

Hi jake can i ask you some questions what transfer case do you use and what is the best and taf transfer case for you.

[@BustedKnuckleOffRoad]

Atlas

[@ragan1023]

How do you feel about the electric solenoid valves on an accumulator?

[@BustedKnuckleOffRoad]

They are ok, but it is just one more thing to fail. We prefer the simpler more reliable manual ones.

[@sharons9367]

I started to understand @ 10:25 onwards 🙂

[@BustedKnuckleOffRoad]

there is a lot to it

[@notyourtipicaltechguy6438]

So I have one concern. What about the fact that oil pressure is slower at idle than at revs.... When you rev up it would take more time for the pressure to rise? Also do you check your oil level and close the valve at idle or at higher rpm??? I am asking this because I want one for my daihatsu feroza :)

[@BustedKnuckleOffRoad]

None of those are issues with this setup.

[@deankay4434]

Busted Knuckle is right. Add this system. Your questions; Slow RPM’s require lower volume, resulting in less pressure. No volume, no pressure, just like fuel pressure. Run engine at good oil pressure range, shut tank off. Check oil. Oil pan holds oil and accumulator as well. A running engine has oil in lifters, inside heads, cam & crank sling oil up, oil running down the block & thru return holes. This accumulator saves a volume of oil to keep any pressure to the rotating mass to prevent failure. It is your choice. I have a solenoid operated accumulator on the 3 cars, motorcycle and convertible I don’t drive often. After decades of working on these and seeing bearing wear on crank, cam and rockers. Catch cans work well also. The 113k LS engine from my son’s Tahoe had valve tip wear on the the evacuation side, while the other side was inlet fresh air, I was convinced! ASE Master Tech since 1978-Retired.

[@maxmagan1238]

Hi jake could you tell me what is the transfer case do you use ang what is the best transfer case for buggys

[@BustedKnuckleOffRoad]

Atlas

[@raho24781]

Do you have a video of the Electric one ?

[@BustedKnuckleOffRoad]

sure don't

[@lewy1]

Does the billet block work on the 4.3 vortec?

[@BustedKnuckleOffRoad]

Possibly

[@Hajnik79]

Good video. But I think I can hear camera person breathing? Lol

[@BustedKnuckleOffRoad]

Yeah it was 100 degrees in the shop making me breathe hard. It's hot down here in Alabama with all the doors closed so you can't hear all the passing traffic.

[@Hajnik79]

@@BustedKnuckleOffRoad makes sense. Was just giving a sound check.😉