How to Fix Ankle Pain for Climbers (Ankle Sprain, Twisted Ankle, Ankle Injury)

[@HoopersBeta]

Okay but how many friendships have been strained by pad gaps? 😅

[@HeitorxD1]

me watching this, currently with an ankle injury hahah just in time

[@jordans92169]

Haha, same

[@HoopersBeta]

Too many ankle injuries out there it seems! Good thing we finally got this one out there ;)

[@skylermaxwell3060]

How long did it take to heal? I sprained both a few days ago

[@kylekennard22]

KZbin Gotta pay you for this. This video is the best ankle explanation when it come to ankle sprain. All FB players should see this

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad it was helpful!!

[@ryanconrad9487]

Sprained my ankle right before Halloween and I was searching your channel for ankle rehab, good timing! I can slowly walk on it with little to no pain so those balance exercises will be great, but my range of motion needs improvement still. I still can't believe this channel isn't more popular, you guys do awesome work!

[@HoopersBeta]

Sounds like the video will definitely still come in handy for you :) Glad you enjoyed it. And thanks for the support! We both appreciate it.

[@spa.3239]

Most comprehensive ankle injury video I've ever seen, thanks for this!

[@HoopersBeta]

Awesome! Glad to hear that :)

[@mariosconstantinou8271]

I found out your channel today and I can't stop watching. The two videos about ankle mobility and rehab (this one) are especially great for me. Thank you!

[@johnappleseed9960]

This video is so in depth and well though out in every aspect. I wish I had seen this video when i first sprained my ankle

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks!

[@chickenspy1854]

Thank you! I injured my ankle surfing a couple weeks back and was super bummed it affected my climbing. Will be doing this rehab for sure!

[@HoopersBeta]

Sorry to hear of your injury but hope this helps get you back to full!

[@kristinnetchy8473]

I love these ideas for improving proprioception! So useful for climbing!

[@HoopersBeta]

Absolutely! And, those are just to get you started. There are tons of variations you can play with to make it more fun for you (but of course, be smart and safe hah)

[@emanuellebiologia]

I sprained my ankle 10 day’s ago and this video is super useful! Thanks so much 😊 I hope I had grade 1 cause I’m walking just limping a bit but not much pain, though!

[@HoopersBeta]

I hope so too! Glad the video is helpful. Goodluck with the injury!

[@WayTooManyNames]

Super useful! I am prone to ankle injury due to a bad sprain when I was a kid, and this guide is fantastically helpful for diagnosing my injuries and for strengthening my ankle back up!

[@caitrionaobrien3050]

Just in case this could help any future climbers. I injured my ankle in January 2022 (final straw was horse-riding but surgeon and physio both confident climbing was the true culprit!). One of the ligaments discussed above sits just outside the peroneal tendon so I had two tendon tears dressed up as sprains/ ligament damage (the swelling was same location but mine actually originated deeper than the muscle/ ligament which was impossible to tell without imaging and I could walk so no reason to suspect tendon damage!). After a few months of physio with no improvement, I got (begged!) a surgeon to look at my MRI (before the appointment 5-6 months later, had a gut instinct I guess) - one look at it and I was in surgery less than a week later (on a religious holiday and everything- man is a legend!). Side note: Also a good way to learn if you have a (problematically) high pain tolerance - I was inadvertently misleading them through lack of pain ('walking doesn't feel right' is (apparently!) less helpful than 'it hurts so I can't walk') - so I've learned I can't use pain as a 'reliable' stop signal given how much damage I can do without the warning!). Back on the wall since about 18 weeks post surgery - rewatching this video to supplement my physio with climbing specific info/rehab. My situation was definitely unusual (not helped by side effects of meds I've been on for years and not feeling/noticing the injury earlier before it hit that level of damage) but my surgeon said peroneal tendon tears are known to happen in climbers so I wanted to flag it here (given this was where I was doing my research on my injury) in case the knowledge could help someone else get healing and back on the wall quicker than me!

[@donkyuhbuhts540]

Currently rehabbing a pretty bad ankle sprain. I would advise anyone to use extreme caution and be positive your ready before trying that one legged jump back thing.

[@HoopersBeta]

Yes! It's a high end level exercise for sure. Perform only if you feel safe and confident. (also, start with tiny movements and it will feel safer!)

[@audiojck1]

Big thanks from me. Usually following your videos out of curiosity, but took a weird lead fall last week and sprained my ankle. My foot looked pretty terrible and super swollen. Luckily the doctor couldn't find any ruptures or fractures 👍 Already back to walking without any assistance for short distances and did a bike excursion yesterday. Started to implement your rehab routine yesterday evening. Thanks for the great videos! So informative.

[@HoopersBeta]

Sorry to hear about the injury! But, of course, happy that our video is out there to help you in your recovery!

[@audiojck1]

@@HoopersBeta tried toproping today and it felt fine already 👍 So I think I'll be fine in a week or two. Thanks again for the vids. Need to get some of your merch!

[@RPD_ps]

I subscribed to your channel because I will get into climbing soon and I want to avoid finger injuries at any cost (a quick look at my channel will explain why) But this video was incredible! Last weekend I got my first ever & an incredibly weird sprain. While I was hiking down, the small hook in the heel of my winter boots was caught by a tree root and I basically yanked my heel with my whole body weight +15 kg of pack weight. I didn't know that you could sprain an ankle without twisting it but yes, I found the way!! Anyway it was a super small sprain and I'm already back to mild cycling and walking, but I did a lot of research just in case. And I must say that this video is by far the best and most complete out there. You did talk about it indirectly, but it would have been good to mention the "RICE" method directly (rest, ice, compression and elevation). Its what's recommended everywhere even for grade 1 sprains and it's just so wrong. As you said, ice is only for grade 2 and 3 sprains and is always discontinued after the first week. Rest is just not okay, as long as you can move the injured part then that should be done because strength is a huge factor in preventing future injuries, and rest only makes you lose strength. As for elevation, you didn't say anything in the video and I am curious about what you think about it.

[@HoopersBeta]

Sorry to hear of your injury but thanks for supporting the channel! Also, I love your understanding on injuries and that you do some good research with them! Elevation certainly has it's purpose but I would use that as a line of defense against swelling if there was some that wasn't reduced with good ol' movement.

[@bauliesclaudia]

Thank you for this! I injured myself about a year and a half ago falling on a slab while sport climbing and I've still got pain while I walk. Will there be a high ankle sprain video coming along soon? I think that would be most aplicable to my case! All physios I've seen told me it's a pretty common climbing injury...

[@HoopersBeta]

That's a good idea! We didn't want to make this video too convoluted to cover that as well, but a high ankle sprain one will be added to the list!

[@bauliesclaudia]

@@HoopersBeta Thank you so much! I'll be impatiently waiting for it 😅 literally hahahah

[@nibeditaful]

The most useful video on the internet. Thanks again 🥳

[@nibeditaful]

Just the video I was looking for as I had a bad fall and have a grade 3 sprain. I hope by doing these exercises I can avoid surgery . Already 2.5 months over from the injury, I can walk on plane surfaces . Need to do proper rehab. Hoping for speedy recovery ❤️‍🩹

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad to hear that, hopefully our videos help! Sorry about your injury though, that's a tough one! Definitely keep up with the rehab and strengthen up that ankle :)

[@alexnunez4019]

Great video. Thank you Mr. Hooper 🙏

[@luffyfan6]

This is some spooky insane timing. I just sprained my ankle this weekend!

[@HoopersBeta]

Sorry about your injury! Hope the vid helps!

[@davidtorres8396]

He knows! He’s a psychic that uses his powers to heal climbers.

[@Quilt82]

This is perfect timing as I'm 3 weeks after a weber a ankle fracture and likely a cfl sprain.

[@HoopersBeta]

Oh dang sorry to hear that! Hope the video helps and you make a full recovery!

[@niki3722]

Now I'm mad at the people in the hospital and my physio therapists for not telling me most of these I was bracing for too long and not going for full range of motion. Almost a year later and it's still not back to normal I'm scared of it never being back to full mobility

[@HoopersBeta]

That is very frustrating

[@nbka8rs]

hell yea, stoked you guys made this one! PS: algogogogo

[@joshuaniemann5156]

Sprained my ankle last week while climbing... Sucks that I can't climb on it for a while but this video helped out A LOT and gave me clear steps to follow. Thanks Hooper!

[@HoopersBeta]

Yew! Good luck with the rehab!

[@sarahwilley7471]

I did not sprain my ankle. I completely shattered it. Now, months into recovery I'm still working on mobility and strength. Recently I noticed some muscle and tendon pain so I think this video will help me loads to communicate where that pain is to my PT. I'm also gonna try incorporating some of these exercises into my routine

[@Dippie60]

Two years ago I fell off the bouldering wall from a weird position and unable to correct myself I landed on both feet, but my right foot rolled inward and back. I heard some crunchy noises and then proceeded to be in absolute pain for 15 mins before going to the hospital. I tore my ligaments up really bad and my foot just went purple and thick 2 days after. Still pretty stiff in my ankle but will apply some of these exercises to increase flexibility and stuff because it still hurts when I have to stand on downward angled volumes and stuff.

[@HoopersBeta]

Yikes! Sorry to hear of that injury! Yes, definitely try to restore your range of motion and function so you can climb better (and safer!).

[@kaizacorp]

Ouch! I crushed part of my talus bone years ago playing indoor soccer (foot landed where ground and wall met) and recently reactivated that injury climbing slab and falling with that foot landing too hard on a lower protruding hold. I'm back to climbing now but I too have issues with downward angled volumes or launching positions that are very low / loaded on that foot. Hope these exercises help you out, do comment back if you notice any improvements!

[@Meganlizsmith]

Very helpful!! Thank you! Great video

[@agnilsson]

Saved this one for inevitable future reference…curse my hyper flexible ankles. Applying the Ottawa Ankle rules to my avulsion fracture years back: 1. 4 unassisted steps - Well I ran a further 9km to finish the trail half marathon I was running in. Okay passed that one. 2. No pain in these specific areas: Oh… Misdiagnosed by a doctor as well. 3 years to fully recover from that mess. Thanks for the awesome content!

[@HoopersBeta]

Gnarly!! Glad you were able to recover fully!

[@RPD_ps]

You were able to finish a marathon with a broken ankle bone!? Thats impressive... I'm glad that you recovered from that messy injury

[@agnilsson]

@@RPD_ps A mere half-marathon. I walked a bit and concluded it hurt less to run on and I was a long way from assistance. Spraining an ankle early on (which is what I thought it was) and continuing is not unheard of in ultra-marathons, even 100mile events. Risky, but when you’ve potentially dedicated years to reach the start line for some events, it may be worth it. I’m not sure that i recommend this though. The best bit - I still took more than 4 minutes off my personal best, despite the finishing kms being quite a bit harder than normal.

[@kellyrussell1877]

i gave myself a grade 3 sprain falling in the gym about a month ago - absolutely no reason it should have happened, I just wasn't paying attention and fell in the worst possible way. Came down from about a metre up and landed most of my weight directly on the outside of one foot. I'm hypermobile, so had no idea it was that bad until I went to a very experienced physio, because the ligaments holding my feet together are so loose that my ankles are always unstable and I didn't even feel a difference when they weren't working anymore. For the same reason, I've been struggling to rehab it properly over an appropriate amount of time, because I can't tell if it's healing based on improvement in stability or balance (never had those in the first place). Being hypermobile means I injure my ankles a LOT - physio said I probably have a minor to moderate sprain more or less constantly with how often I roll my ankles. All that to say this video is EXACTLY what I need, thank you so much!!!

[@HoopersBeta]

Sorry to hear about your injuries!! But I'm happy to hear you think this will help!! Good luck!

[@Blue-pb7kz]

Quick question, does anyone know at what point in time you're supposed to do the tests for avulsion and severity? Right after the sprain, the day after...? Thanks!

[@Jennj96]

As soon after as possible!

[@1matim]

thanks, good video

[@SportBilly82]

Hi! Do you think it is OK to return to sport climbing (on top rope) only a week after a possible grade 2 ankle sprain? I feel pretty well walking and doing balance exercises etc. but I am wondering if I am rushing things and i face a possible new twisting of the ankle.

[@mikerowland8004]

I have an old ankle injury that has resulted in about 60% dorsiflexion when compared to my other ankle. I have a little less movement when pointing my toes too but not as much. Will going through these drills help my ankle or is it too late for me..?

[@rodrigoibarra3211]

I had a grade III sprain three years ago and now I'm the same position with limited mobility in my left ankle. I hope is not too late for both of us

[@HoopersBeta]

We will have a video regarding improving ankle mobility coming up soon so stay tuned!

[@MateuszNizioek]

Sooooo where I can learn anything about high ankle sprain?

[@lucyzhang7385]

I’m have the high ankle sprain rip… do you have any tips for that?

[@ezrabrown6420]

Couple years back I rolled the shit out of my ankle turned blue swelled up like crazy and everything anyway my good buddy Dustin who is a skater from way back told me to shave my foot and shave the lower part of my leg and just tape the shit out of it with coaches tape just scrunch it down with tape and to stop being a wimp and just walk on it like nothing happened. Pretty killer rehab definitely didn’t feel good but right now I can’t even tell which ankle has been injured in which hasn’t.

[@justhamer17]

unfortunately I got an avulsion fracture and I'm on a back slab cast for 6 weeks, I feel that I also having a grade II ankle sprain what should I do? I can not move my ankle because of the cast! please advise

[@TheJuicemann24]

would have been perfect 6 months ago XD now that my ankle is mostly healed how to I get its mobility back to where it was before? Had I been better about rehab this probably wouldn't have been an issue :/

[@HoopersBeta]

Ankle mobility video is coming up soon!

[@TheJuicemann24]

@@HoopersBeta amazing! can't wait

[@yvonnekawamura783]

Do you have any tips for someone with a subluxed peroneal tendon? Mine keeps going out with abduction of the foot during climbing, even when I tape for it.

[@HoopersBeta]

I would recommend seeing an orthopedic specialist and possibly a surgeon. You may have some positive results with rehab as the body adapts to the change but if the retinaculum is torn out detached you may need surgical intervention.

[@mariaharrison4503]

I was lead belaying a guy twice my weight and was way too far from the wall when I was pulled up only my left ankle braced me as I went forward towards the wall so my whole foot rammed into the wall and been a year dealing with a stiff ankle and arch and the spring in my foot are gone, standing up on it is a lot harder now :(

[@HoopersBeta]

Dang sorry to hear that! Did you have any formal rehab afterward?

[@mariaharrison4503]

@@HoopersBeta yes its just not the same lol

[@medinberisha5551]

When i walk im limping just a little same when going uphills and stairs

[@davidtorres8396]

I maybe sort of deserved to land on the edge of a crash pad in January. Should have looked straight down as to not turn my body while turning my head. This video quite completes the list of parts of the body my clumbsy ass has tweaked or injured (for now) in 4 years of climbing. Thanks Dr. Hooper for keeping us all thinking about healthy habits and avoiding injury.

[@HoopersBeta]

hah, well I'm sorry about your injury but glad we have you covered for all of your issues!

[@ricardasbertasius5577]

what is scary though is climbing shoes after injury, can't imagine putting them on after spr tear with subluxation brrrrr.

[@mitchellhintzsche993]

hahaha, I can't believe the irony that this video came out just a bit after Ludwig got an ankle injury from pushing too hard doing bouldering.

[@MrJojoxD]

I had a grade 3 ankle sprain due to a gap in pads. It's been 4 months following a similar protocol since my injury. I've been working hard on proprioception and regaining confidence in moves that involve impact. I even got better and climbed two grades more than I used to. Now I'm a proprioception propaganda guy in the gym I go to hahaha

[@HoopersBeta]

Sorry to hear about your injury BUT that's an awesome turn around! Stoked that you're climbing better than ever now!

[@nibeditaful]

You are the right guy to look up to as I have a grade 3 ankle sprain and I got this injury almost 3 months back. I am not sure if I have followed all the protocols but please guide me how did you cure your condition. I have fully torn ATFL and partially torn CFL and partially torn TFL. Looking forward for some tips from you to address my condition.

[@trist5612]

Mine looked like it had half a baseball sticking out the side of it

[@HoopersBeta]

That's a big one! Hope you did some rehab after :)

[@trist5612]

@@HoopersBeta I’m two days in ): can’t walk

[@trist5612]

@@HoopersBeta stuck in a cast

[@Desorem]

First. :p Right ankle here.