How to fix crushed or flipped primers on Dillon 1050

Sideways, upside down primers, crushed primers and shuttle hang up problems on the Dillon 1050 are very frustrating. It took a bunch of trial and error and then one day a super simple fix occurred to me. While watching the primer shuttle move, I noticed that when the toolhead came down the locating pin would cause the shuttle to jiggle a bit. Sometimes allot. The first effort I did was to add a spring to the actuation lever. That helped some but not completely. I took the shell plate off and very carefully watched how the motion was happening. The problem became obvious after a few minutes. Well, more like many hours cause I’m not the bright. The shuttle wasn’t stopping centered under the locating pin and when the pin came down it caused the shuttle to jostle, sometimes very violently. The fix, add an adjusting screw to cause the shuttle to stop in perfect alignment under the locating pin. Problem solved. We now have very few bad primers coming off of the press. Here’s a video showing the installation.
I wish to add a note about priming military brass. This fix will not stop problems associated with crimped primer military brass. After the primer is removed from crimped primer brass the sharp edge must be removed. You can tell if that is your problem because the primer is extruding on one side where it has caught on the sharp edge of the primer pocket.
Many people seem to have luck with simply swagging the pocket. I have not found that to be 100% reliable on rifle brass as there are too many variations in the base thickness to set the hold down. Your experience may be different, good for you but I have found the best way is to de-bur using two turns with a Weldon 2287 countersink. Yeah other counter sinks can work and I've used them too but 50 years of experience using the Weldon countersinks tells me it is the go too. Some day, if I decide to spend the time, I'll come up with a tool to work in on of the stations.

[@snowgorilla9789]

I needed .065" on mine, I drilled and tapped the slide for m3 flathead machine screw. It is hard but not bad, use cutting oil take your time. Worked perfect, zero lash. Thanks for the vid

[@astridvallati4762]

Great fix, years ago, with my RL1050 I used to get about 2 per 100 cases with upside-down primers....I went over to RCBS Autoprime, and run the primed cases a second time, without DecapFLS and Pocket swage ( for Movie Blanks) Now with this "kink " can fix All my Dillons: RL And Super (s). Thankyou DocAV Australia

[@rodyoakum1194]

Thanks For The Video 👍

[@j.settle6448]

Simple is smart. I like the way you think.

[@feman43]

I appreciate that!

[@icebmwpower]

@Mark Wood very valuable video! Wanna see more Tips&Tricks... Thumb 👍

[@feman43]

Thank you. This fix has been one of the most valuable modifications. Primer dust gets everywhere when they get crushed and that cause all kinds of troubles. Fixing that one little problem cures a bazillion frustrations.

[@icebmwpower]

Mark Wood because of the primer dust I prefer to deprime/resize on other press. Yes it’s a bit slower but that’s how in my reloading I have zero issues.

[@feman43]

I also run separate processes. The primer dust used to come from primers getting crushed. That trouble is mostly gone.

[@Robodriller]

That pin bends very easily. Give it a tap until it no longer engages a side of the slide. It will go directly in the center of that primer slide hole, not rub one side, and feel SUPER smooth. I also got rid of the plastic primer fallower. Used a brass rod in its place for a bit extra weight.

[@jaycarva]

Thanks for this tip, I wonder if it would be easier to drill and tap the slide rather than the frame?

[@feman43]

It's doubtful. The slide is case hardened and would require a carbide drill to make the hole. Then tapping would also require a carbide tap. The drill will cost around $25 and the tap close $100. I made a video of doing the mod but forgot to post it. I used a low cost pin vice to hold both the drill and the tap. Of course if I were producing slides in the manufacturing side, putting the stop screw there would be the go to solution. I considered manufacturing slides as a retrofit and that would be a good product.

[@Robodriller]

That slide is hard af.

[@tonyvillena1293]

@@feman43 soooooooo can I buy it? Lol hope you made it. I dont want to drill my press. Warranty period still good

[@wiseguy724]

how did you drill and tap that hole? My bits don't seem long enough to get in coming from the back side, did you go in from an angle from that small hole in the shell plate area?

[@feman43]

I used a pin vise to extend the drill and the tap. I'm about to do another one so I may do another how to.

[@wiseguy724]

@@feman43 Thanks for the reply. Mine has the same issue I was thinking about just shimming the forward part of the cavity in the shell plate area with some home made spacers or re shaping with JB plus a dremel. There's much better access to just put the set screw into the primer bar, plus less expensive to replace if it comes out bad. But I'm guessing it's hardened so it would be a pain in that sense.

[@grapeshot23]

Can you describe the spring for the primer arm? What parts to get/how do you do it?

[@feman43]

I wound this spring from 0.032 wire around a 3/8" mandrel. I sold my 1050's and shop a few months ago which means I really don't a means to make more videos or create parts. The installation is fairly straight forward by replacing the pivot pin with a bolt and drilling a small hole to push a roll pin in for the spring. I have to say the spring goes a long way to help the primer shuttle work. Keeping the primer shuttle area clean is also very important. I use a small squirt bottle with alcohol to keep the shuttle running super smooth.

[@claudem.p.7969]

do you have the spring size for the second fix ? very very cleaver.

[@feman43]

That is a spring I wind from 032 wire. I'm considering offering them as a product along with a couple other items I use on my 1050 bots.