How to Ground an Amplifier | Amp | Mono Block | 4 Channel | 5 Channel | AnthonyJ350

[@jamalbooker1435]

The first two I would never do, but are very common. The third way is by far the best way to do it. I actually use a bolt-ring terminal-car chassis-lock washer-lock nut setup with a little bit of conductive grease to protect the metal under the ring terminal. It's a little time consuming but is very secure. Excellent video btw.

[@AnthonyJ350]

+Jamal Booker Thanks! Ya I have the lock washers and the paste and I'll probably save it for another video. I'm just taking baby steps with beginners and showing them what they should be trying to do and ditch the self tappers for ground.

[@jamalbooker1435]

+AnthonyJ350 we all had to start somewhere, I'm sure we all used self tappers at least once when we were young. It's quick and easy and kinda works for a bit. Happy to see someone teaching how to do it properly

[@AnthonyJ350]

Jamal Booker Oh ya, I was using self tappers till only a few years ago. I liked the idea of nut and bolt, but it's sooooo time consuming. The self threading bolt and locking saves me time and it looks good too.

[@nathanielrenner9540]

Nice fun informative video. I've been doing car audio for 15 years as a hobby and rarely do you see great installs. The only thing I like to do is take is a step further with a locking washer. (I'm not taking anything away from what you did, just saying what I like to do). Keep up the good work bro! 😀👍✌️

[@AnthonyJ350]

+Nathaniel Renner Thanks!

[@mudderschamp]

Hey man, very good job with the video, this will really help some new guys get an idea of how to improve installs, my only add ons would be that you shouldn't be able to solder a truely good crimp, if its a good crimp the terminal will be cold welded to the terminal. The other suggestion is what I personally think is the best grounding solution when there is not a good factory fastner (seat belt,seat,body bolt,etc.) is a rivet nut, they take a little more time to install but you can get them in various sizes and it will allow you to run a normal bolt and really get a good connection, when used with a lock washer its the most solid connection you can get in my opinion, once again great video man

[@AnthonyJ350]

+mudderschamp Thanks for your insight an feedback!

[@mudderschamp]

No problem man

[@kennb.4169]

Major Tom to ground control. Thank you.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching

[@dk9696]

Thanks Anthony, that was really on point!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Glad you liked it!

[@ricardoblancas4845]

Can the ground just be on a normal piece of metal or does it have to be something specific?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Something that is attached to the main chassis of the vehicle.

[@jeremyarnold629]

I use a 5/16 drill bit and drill a hole, then clean top/bottom surfaces then install a 5/15×1.5 bolt thru bottom and a lock washer and nut on top then the ground wire and another nut. This way is much better when removing and reinstalling multiple times it' there for as long as you want it there!!!

[@jeremyarnold629]

5/16x1.5 bolt lol

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for sharing!

[@carnage50x]

I normally try and find where the seats bolt down, factory ground stud, or if all aren't avaliable strut tower bolt, if not even that I do nut and bolt (try not to drill holes if I don't need to). every install I always strip paint. I normally don't paint it when it's inside the vehicle.

[@alexanderstein5379]

Where can I get the posi ground bolt with the drill bit ? Maybe a kit ?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Here's their web site www.pozitiveground.com/

[@patrickpeterman8736]

What flavor metal did you use ??; a very good video been watching your webpage for a while now!! could I mount a solid piece of copper to the floor in a 70 Chevy C-10 pickup; and use this 2x7"COPPER bar like a buss bar in an electrical box; would it work for my amp; this would help avoid long cable runs; hope you got minute to advise; thank,s again PJP

[@AnthonyJ350]

Nut and bolting a copper buss bar would be a great idea. Are you cool nut and bolting it to the truck? If you do and run a ground strap to the battery (4 gauge or up to 0) you'll be grounding the cab extremely well in the process.

[@patrickpeterman8736]

THANK YOU FOR THE TIMELY REPLY; If I run a 4 gauge wire from the negative side of the battery to the copper bus bar inside the cab would that work?? thank,s PJP@@AnthonyJ350

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@patrickpeterman8736 Most definitely. I would also ground from the battery to the frame and cab. Then ground each cylinder head to the frame. And make sure the filler neck for the fuel system and the bed have good grounds.

[@patrickpeterman8736]

much appreciated !! BE WELL !!@@AnthonyJ350

[@TheLionAndTheLamb777]

Just my opinion here but poor grounds and power can cause amps to fail. Don't cheap out on your wire, use proper gauge OFC and if you can't get it crimped with a good crimper use a vice and solder it. The third way that AnthonyJ350 demonstrated is the only way that you should consider grounding your amp if you want the amp to live a long time.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Stepside1986 Thanks for sharing!

[@ahumm8280]

I solder my wire tips instead of using ferules!

[@Grayback1973]

So any of the sheet metal under the interior carpet is a good ground generally speaking,so long as the paint is removed?

[@AnthonyJ350]

For the most part as long as you're not installing a really big amp. In high current situations, it's a good idea to ground at the battery.

[@Grayback1973]

Thanks Anthony! Your videos are very helpful for novices like me.Half the fun is installing it myself to be honest.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Ya we figure there will always be DIY people so might as well help them do it the right way. That way we can all build better vehicles.

[@Grayback1973]

BTW....the amp is a JL Audio putting out a total of 450 RMS watts.According to my research it will be drawing an average of about 21 amps.Thats not considered huge,is it?

[@AnthonyJ350]

No, I'm thinking if you had 2,000 Watts RMS then you have to consider wiring it all at the battery.

[@Guitargrease1]

With the grounding bold option, can I use a ratchet if I dont have a powertool?

[@AnthonyJ350]

You can, probably be a little tough making it go in straight.

[@chrisnas1483]

Where did you get the soider?

[@AnthonyJ350]

You can find a lot of the materials I use in my Amazon store www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5WKZ93?tag=onamzgofastha-20&linkCode=ssc%20&creativeASIN=B06W5WKZ93&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.35THEUTYV6ZQ4

[@chrisnas1483]

@@AnthonyJ350 thanks

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@chrisnas1483 You're welcome

[@turneynicholas]

I usually use a seat bolt or any other type of fastener that's already there

[@AnthonyJ350]

+nicholas turney You gotta try it this way. A lot of installs you won't be near a factory fastener all the time.

[@turneynicholas]

+AnthonyJ350 I've done it that way allot of times I just prefer using a factory bolt location

[@juanv433]

I do the same.

[@GatesRapes]

Same here , works fine

[@Kaosinlondon79]

Hi can you tell me what the model number is for that sander? 5:02 seconds.

[@AnthonyJ350]

It's made by Bluepoint. I got it off the SnapOn truck.

[@nhcummings]

It's called an angle die grinder

[@Kaosinlondon79]

I dont have a garage so i cant use the ones that run on air tanks :(

[@nhcummings]

You can put the attachment for angle die grinders on a drill won't work as well but still works pretty good.

[@TheYORK21]

Sheet, I didn't know I was a D-student. Thanks for the video.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Are you going to start using the grounding bolt???!!! :D

[@sietafak]

I have a proven 600w rms amp, 102A alternator and my lights dim when I push it hard. Sounds like a bad ground?

[@AnthonyJ350]

I'd upgrade the grounds an install a high quality battery to start. Also look into eventually upgrading your alternator. You can also upgrade your marker and brake lights to LED, so there's less draw on your charging system.

[@TheLionAndTheLamb777]

Halogen Bulbs will almost always dim a little bit.

[@calixxlivin]

true on my girls car her headlights dim on 300 watts if you get hid lights it wont happen you can do the big 3 upgrade i dont think you need an alterantor for that amp

[@johnnymclovin1933]

Mr. Rat do the big 3 upgrade

[@indybedi6498]

Try adding a Capacitor, I did and it works a treat no more dim lights and it was far the cheapest option.

[@TheOffPowerZero]

One way better to use bolt and a nut if u can get a wrench in side where u are grounding your amp

[@AnthonyJ350]

+Car AudioDriver (ThePowerOfZero) But what if you're grounding into a floor board and the bolt isn't accessible on the other side?

[@JuanGonzales-zx8hy]

I've always just used a but and bolt directly to the floor structure usually a double or triple ply area at least a half with eye and washers

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for sharing!

[@bakyrmennongsteng6229]

Can i ground it between two washers instead of stripping the paint

[@AnthonyJ350]

No, you'll want to strip the paint because you need to conduct with the metal.

[@GatesRapes]

Yes, put the ground under the seat frame directly on the floor

[@krazietint32]

What bolt is that It looks a lot better then the self tapping screw

[@AnthonyJ350]

It's a bolt designed specifically for this application that I get from one of my suppliers. I don't know where you'd get it from besides install shops and very few are going to use this kind of specialized hardware. If you live in Vancouver Canada I can sell you one :)

[@CeoOfSlow]

I'm pretty sure these are them just search Moroso 90100 Wheel Rim Screws on amazon

[@AnthonyJ350]

CrazyBass239 Possibly, the bolt I use in the video has two different thread pitches to achieve the result. So if that Moroso bolt has similar specs you'll get similar results.

[@erikanderson3633]

+Brandon Garcia +anthonyJ350 look up "Body Bolt" ABD6350B on amazon... i think that may what you're looking for

[@AnthonyJ350]

Erik Anderson I'm already in contact with the owner of the Pozitive Ground product and have access to everything I need. Thanks though!

[@nbrowser]

I try to find a beauty threaded stud in the back of any car, clean the paint around it, use some star washers and a nut to crank the wire down and top it off with a dab of dielectric compound to keep the corrosion away. Failing that, find a spot where you can get behind it and clean the area it and use a damn good bolt, nut, washers, star washers etc. and get that sucker on real good. Granted I'm not a pro installer and this is how I do things on my own car, usually works quite well for a the long term.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Kenneth James We're high volume so this method works for speed but I trust it so I can provide lifetime warranty on my workmanship. But your way is correct, just adds time.

[@nbrowser]

Very true...but two different beasts, for me, I can take a half hour to get the ground right because well...I'm trying to make me happy! Also if I can I also upgrade the battery to body ground at the battery, I've seen and heard that make a huge improvement regarding higher powered/multiple amplifier installs. Just things you learn along the road. Not saying your way is bad, seriously that is damn fine and showing the home gamer how to get it better isn't bad. I've seen too many single screw weak ground connections and fixed that for friends, amazing how sound output picks up...almost like a new amp got installed sometimes.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Yes upgrade the ground from the battery to chassis and motor will help the electrical system a lot. Also look into a good quality battery like NorthStar.

[@juggernautxtr]

I'll stick to my method....factory bolt or ground location or drill a hole(usually in spare tire well) and use bolts washers and nuts.

[@AnthonyJ350]

juggernautxtr To each their own.

[@Dmack434]

@@AnthonyJ350 Exactly.....some people smh. Great vid AnthonyJ350

[@gmax341]

Is welding an option?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Not really because you're dealing with dissimilar metals and you want it serviceable if you ever have to change out the cable.

[@gmax341]

@@AnthonyJ350 thanks. There goes that plan. Guess I'll hate to bite the bullet and run a dedicated negative wire up to the front.

[@gtavtheavengergunnerlegend3340]

Good chart.

[@ahumm8280]

Thanks for the clear coat tip!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Your welcome!

[@chrismurnahan9763]

Where can u buy them kind of bolts @?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Chris Murnahan Pozitive ground.com

[@fuckgoogle4704]

that last fastener is a body bolt not a self tapper. Its tapered so when it goes into the u-nut it mates with it doesnt cross thread due to panel misalignment. (used for body assembly, you start all the bolts then tighten after they all are started. it self aligns the panel) some distributer got a brilliant idea to call it something else! Your final A student ground should be a nut and a bolt with a star washer between terminal and surface. Find a helper to hold the wrench on the other side if you must.

[@AnthonyJ350]

+FuckGoogle+ I do use the lock washer now. For how many installs I do, there are so many situations where you can't even see the other side to put a nut on it. There is a nut in the kit but it's meant for thin sheet metal applications.

[@AnthonyJ350]

+FuckGoogle+ I also believe I said it was self threading, not self tapping. Correct me if I stated otherwise.

[@fuckgoogle4704]

+AnthonyJ350 is there a difference? When you cut threads in a hole you use a tap... I'm not criticizing you over the use of that bolt I just think it was rather inventive for your source to rename it and come up with a new use.

[@AnthonyJ350]

FuckGoogle+ I'm not sure, I always thought of self tapping, it would also make the hole for you. Same difference I suppose. Ya Vern at JL Troy has come up with a fantastic product to get better and more reliable performance from sound systems.

[@MrKiet76]

is it better to remove the negative cable off the battery before messing with those wires?

[@AnthonyJ350]

That is the common practice.

[@MrKiet76]

+AnthonyJ350 already did it without removing negative from battery! now I gotta get use to my new hair lol

[@83malibuwagon]

I've always been told to ground to the frame not the body?

[@AnthonyJ350]

You have to look where the main ground from the battery goes. You can also add thicker grounds from the battery to chassis and body. You're just talking about body on frame. Because unibody is one in the same.

[@Keepin-it-wheel101]

Anthony, I have a question, I install a rear camera on my car. it works when car is on position/Reverse. if I start the car and put reverse the camera does not show video. only if car is in on position. any ideas? thanks I'm advanced.

[@AnthonyJ350]

How are you getting signal for reverse?

[@Keepin-it-wheel101]

AnthonyJ350 , thanks for responding, the red cable going to reverse light. black to ground. it only works in.on position. I heard something to do with cambus...but still searching.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Daniel Medrano I would put the camera on a relay. What kind of vehicle is it?

[@Keepin-it-wheel101]

AnthonyJ350 is a passat 09, with eonon head unit with cambus. I install it tonight and realize it only works when on position/ Reverse but when I start vehicle and reverse the video goes away.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Daniel Medrano Did you use a module to power up the head unit? They have a reverse output if you did and you can use that to trigger a relay.

[@MrJose123704]

nice video bro!

[@AnthonyJ350]

+Jorge Sanchez Thank you!

[@BRado]

what material should the self tapper be for best conductivity. because arent those pwdercoated or painted?

[@BRado]

idk why i asked this, i didnt even do that when i was 16. MY MAIN QUESTION IS:in general- with all these connectors - which is the most conductive? steel? stainless? (can u buy copper bolts lol) because i generally sand the hell out and just run a bolt it through a stock seat rail and secure it with a nut. not into drilling more holes. this method worked great when i was 16 but you could wiggle it.... and i was 16 so id say thats a c- install at that age lol

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@BRado Stainless is good. The main thing is there is a good "clamping action" between the ring terminal and the chassis. I would pick hardware that is plated that way it is less likely to corrode and still conduct. Be careful tightening stainless as it's a softer metal.

[@hungrynapps]

i believe my ground is good .. when my bass hits loud .. my amp protect light .. flashes to d beat .. what is causing that .. i checked voltage .. supply good . amp about 3 yrs old n d amp powerful enough for d speakers

[@AnthonyJ350]

Seems like your amp is clipping. Try turning the gain down a little at the amp.

[@gilbertrodegeb5401]

@@AnthonyJ350 how would you stop it from clipping without turning the gain down?? Cause with my system it doesn't sound the same if I turn the gain down and I love that chest pounding feeling

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@gilbertrodegeb5401 Sounds like there's too much signal going in.

[@gilbertrodegeb5401]

@@AnthonyJ350 what you mean by that

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@gilbertrodegeb5401 The source that the RCAs are plugged into might be feeding in a signal too high of a level.

[@Beachbum001]

Where can I get a positive grounding bolt ?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Steven Sposato Check out the website in the description

[@nhcummings]

Not hateing but It would be much better to use a wire wheel on the drill it will take all the paint off without a chance of nicking up the metal

[@AnthonyJ350]

I agree. I use a small circular wire brush you see me use in other videos now.

[@jhonrambo7036]

I have a honda civic with 2 10s 1000watts rms amp and my lights dimmed alot if i turn up the vass knob i looked at the amp ground and looks like a shitty connection the guy who did the install hook it up to a bolt near the back seat and the copper looks like loose hairs of copper because he used a smaller crimpping conection

[@woabeatz9717]

Capasitor or upgraded alternator...

[@Grayback1973]

Anthony,me again. I am setting up my amplifier wiring andI did 2 tests to the spot I found to ground at .The resistance reading is at 00.2 and the voltage reading is at 12.72. Do these numbers seem acceptable to you?Thanks...

[@AnthonyJ350]

John Adams I think so. How powerful is the amp?

[@Grayback1973]

AnthonyJ350 Total will be 450w RMS.

[@Grayback1973]

The other thing is when I touch the probes together in mid air it reads 00.2.So I would subtract that off my read,right? If so,that would put it at 00.0

[@AnthonyJ350]

John Adams You should be good

[@Grayback1973]

Thanks for your help!

[@exo571]

great video

[@iii_RiG_GlOcKzZ]

Did u say ego regger, im sorry what’s that tool??

[@iii_RiG_GlOcKzZ]

Angle grinder🤦🏽‍♂️

[@AnthonyJ350]

Which part in the video?

[@woabeatz9717]

Amps in trunks...usualy ground to a bolt that is in the trunk....

[@AnthonyJ350]

Sometimes there isn't one.

[@woabeatz9717]

@@AnthonyJ350 oh...maybe drill a hole...😁

[@BROWNBYHONOR13]

THE GROUND, CAN I BOLT IT ON ON THE CHASSIS?

[@AnthonyJ350]

ROBERTO FLORES Ya for sure as long as you're not near any crucial lines, i.e. brake, electrical etc. I would pre-drill the metal to almost the diameter of the the frame because you'll break the bolt. It's probably best to tap the frame cause you know a bolt would thread.

[@BROWNBYHONOR13]

Thanks! ...What if its a nut and bolt,is that good or bad? And the chassis already has a whole is that good? Would I hat to scrape the inside of the whole?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Ya you can do a nut and bolt. Just get down to bare metal, then re-coat the connection after with some bed liner in the can.

[@BROWNBYHONOR13]

THANKS!

[@tracyhernandez2334]

. As a viewer I think I would of liked the video alot if I was viewing what was happening as you used your drill not the bad m if your arm. Other then that, the info is great!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks so much for your feedback! I perform the procedure again here, I think you'll get a better vantage point kzbin.info/www/bejne/p3jUeYmNhJaGgtE

[@k3v24]

it's still ok to ground to a factory ground bolt right?

[@AnthonyJ350]

Kev O. Yup for sure. Just clear any paint off

[@AnthonyJ350]

If you get noise in your sound system, I would find a new location to ground your system.

[@vidarg75]

I didn't catch the brand on the bolt. I've tried, but you say it too fast for my ears. What was it?

[@AnthonyJ350]

+Vidar G Pozitive Ground www.pozitiveground.com/

[@mooremaceo]

👍

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for watching!

[@rza380.]

Can you actually just sand down the metal of the seat that's the bolts are going thru it looks just like the piece you have in the vice

[@AnthonyJ350]

I don't recommend going to the seat bolts ( I sued to do that). The bolts are a big diameter typically and there's usually better spots to go to if you take apart the vehicle a little bit more.

[@rza380.]

@@AnthonyJ350 not the seat bolt but the black metal of the seat frame

[@AnthonyJ350]

@@rza380. No, you want to be direct to the body.

[@rza380.]

@@AnthonyJ350 cool ima just go under the carpet and sand the floor down

[@leohobbleohobb3781]

this is more how to connect the minus power and not earth grounding or proper grounding of a amp cicuit inside it.s box?

[@AnthonyJ350]

leohobb leohobb I think you're referring to the same thing in your comment.

[@tobydyes]

small Grinders

[@AnthonyJ350]

Yes

[@jimdavidson5208]

You didn't get any solder inside the ring terminal. Least you crimp THEN solder or attempt to solder. Need more heat BEFORE you apply solder. Never ground amps to steel. Go directly to the battery.

[@AnthonyJ350]

jim davidson The wire took the solder. I agree with running a ground to the battery in a boat or a high dollar job or a car many put together with adhesive. Do you really think a customer with a 600 watt RMS amp in a Civic is going to pay extra for wiring like that? Do you work in a shop and deal with customers with a limited budget?

[@idawave1494]

When your poor you can use your girls nail polish to coat it 😂😂

[@AnthonyJ350]

It works

[@tobydyes]

that's not how you solder you never put any flux on it that you supposed to put on

[@AnthonyJ350]

It's already manufactured into the roll.

[@michaelpalmisano7010]

Sorry man but your first ground is like a straight F student and should never be done. Second ground would work but eventually fail because the screws will come loose with vibration so still an F student . Your last ground is exceptable , depending how much power your running .. your absolute best possible ground is at the battery , or the chassis , and all grounds should be tested for resistance before hand .

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for the feedback!

[@allin-christianyap2672]

2nd method is a waste with that burr bit

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for the comment

[@nickb8735]

self tapping sheet metal screw works perfect but only use a drill until it breaks then by hand till snug

[@AnthonyJ350]

I prefer using the bolt or nut and bolt it to get maximum clamping force.

[@jimdavidson5208]

Never ground to steel anything. Use copper connectors. Don't use shit car stereo shop jelly wire. Yes that junk you can see through. Fire hazard alert if you do.

[@AnthonyJ350]

You again? Where do you work exactly? Why are you against audio shop wiring? What do you have in your vehicle? Have you ever looked to where BMW, Mercedes Benz, Volvo (the safety company), Honda etc ground to for the factory stuff? The frame/ chassis. How much amperage are you referring to? Again I agree if you have a bunch of amplifiers, that pull big amperage ground to the battery. So please start showing, pics on Instagram and videos on KZbin so we can see what you're about.

[@jimdavidson5208]

Anthony, factory electronics draw nearly nothing. The starter is the largest draw on most cars. Then you overload the electrical system with some Chinese car stereo junk. Using fire hazard jelly wire you can see through. My deal with your video is you are showing people "how to ground car stereo amps". Do it correctly next time with a copper grounding buss bar and not some thin steel sheet metal mess.

[@AnthonyJ350]

jim davidson Most install shops on a basic amp install will do it this way. Do you work in the industry. I know there are meticulous DIY people which is cool. But in a shop setting with 3-600 watt RMS applications what you're proposing is not regularly practiced or economically reasonable. How many amp installs do you do a week? I'm serious because this is an argument of theory vs practice it seems.

[@AnthonyJ350]

jim davidson Sonic Electronix and I have very similar methods for low power applications. Just search how to ground an amp and our videos show up. Now if you do as many amp installs as we do and have better method. Why don't you just make a video and show us how realistic it is. If I think it's great I'll probably adopt the method. But talk is cheap.

[@jimdavidson5208]

You can lead a horse to water but...... Your method is poor let's just call it that. There are better ways to ground circuits. Sonic Electronics is a horrible shop so don't brag on them. Their videos are junk too. Think they had a similar video like this one.

[@maniacalmonster2293]

Well you're kind of a d student if you don't use the proper metal and used sheet metal to begin with

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for the comment! Aren't unibody vehicles all sheet metal though?

[@tobydyes]

use a grinder why using screws and not bolts

[@AnthonyJ350]

I'm showing why screws are a poor choice and the last one is a bolt. A lot of times in a vehicle you do not have access to the other side of the sheet metal.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Use a big electric grinder in the interior of a car? I've never seen any pro do that. What's wrong with the pneumatic 90 degree one shown in the video?

[@EgestroemDk]

I See BAD + BAD + ½ Bad connections only. not something a pro would install like that.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Thanks for the feedback!

[@AnthonyJ350]

I assume you install for a living?

[@williamstrong4305]

Way to steal a video idea from sonic elec and then make it cheasier

[@AnthonyJ350]

William Strong Well I'm an installer and I found out about the Pozitive Grounding product and I decided to share it. A Lot of KZbinrs will have similar topics. Have you seen the other stuff we cover. It's like you getting mad at someone for making a dyno video because they used the same car and similar product.

[@AnthonyJ350]

William Strong You should be happy I'm reinforcing the theory. You getting mad at the video is like getting mad at 2 different brands or dictionaries giving similar or the same meanings for words.

[@ahumm8280]

@@AnthonyJ350 Haters are gonna hate! But its always when you are doing something right! Keep up the good work!

[@LRGRivera]

Fucking rookie!

[@AnthonyJ350]

Ummmmmm ok...

[@2ndchanceinlife]

Can I ground on any sheet metal at the boot of the car ? Does it need to be on a frame or can I bolt it on near the spare wheel is

[@AnthonyJ350]

Depends, if you're not sure measure the resistance of the metal from the battery. If the sheet metal is welded well to structure it should be fine.