How to Install a Frost-Proof Hose Spigot | Ask This Old House

Richard Trethewey helps a homeowner install a new sill cock. (See below for a shopping list, tools, and steps.)
SUBSCRIBE to This Old House: bit.ly/SubscribeThisOldHouse
Richard replaces an inaccessible outdoor hose spigot with one that will never freeze and can be easily operated.
Shopping List for How to Install a Frost-Proof Hose Spigot:
- Frost-proof sill cock (hose spigot)
- Copper pipe and assorted fittings
- Ball valve
- Lead-free solder and flux, for soldering copper pipe and fittings
- Emery cloth, for cleaning copper pipe
- Teflon tape, to create watertight seal on threaded fittings
- Masonry screws, for securing sill cock to the concrete foundation
- Expanding foam insulation, used to seal hole in foundation wall
Tools List for How to Install a Frost-Proof Hose Spigot:
- Hammer drill with 1[FRACTION 14]-inch masonry bit, to bore through concrete foundation
- 5/32-inch masonry bit, for drilling screw pilot holes
- Propane torch, to solder copper pipe and fittings
- Pipe brush, for cleaning copper pipe and fittings
- Pliers and adjustable wrench, to tighten threaded fittings
- Screwdriver
- Cordless drill
- Tubing cutter, for cutting copper pipe
Steps for How to Install a Frost-Proof Hose Spigot:
1. Bore a hole through the concrete foundation wall with an electric hammer drill and 1 1/4-inch-diameter masonry bit.
2. Wrap Teflon tape around the threaded end of the sill cock.
3. Thread a copper adapter onto the end of the sill cock; tighten with pliers and a wrench.
4. Unscrew the handle from the sill cock, then loosen and pull out the stem unit.
5. Feed the sill cock through the hole in the foundation wall from the outside, then bore two screw pilot holes.
6. Fasten the sill cock to the foundation wall with two 2-inch masonry screws.
7. Turn off the water at the water main or well pump.
8. Use a strip of emery cloth to clean a short section of the existing cold-water pipe.
9. Cut out a portion of the pipe with a tubing cutter.
10. Clean the inside of a copper T-fitting with a pipe brush.
11. Brush flux around the outside of the just-cut tubing, and to the inside of the T-fitting.
12. Use a propane torch and lead-free solder to solder the T-fitting to the cold-water pipe.
13. Apply flux to the inside of the copper adapter threaded onto the end of the sill cock.
14. Insert a copper street elbow into the adapter.
15. Cut copper pipe to length and attach copper fittings to extend from the street elbow at the sill cock to the T-fitting on the cold-water pipe. Also, install a ball valve to the pipe assembly.
16. Solder together all the pipes, fittings, and valve.
17. Seal the hole in the foundation wall with expanding foam insulation.
18. Open the ball valve to allow water to flow to the sill cock.
19. Attach the garden hose, open the sill cock, and test your work.
The frost-proof sillcock Richard installed is available in 8", 10", and 12" lengths from many home centers and plumbing supply houses.
The hammer drill and 1 ¼" masonry bit can be rented from many tool rental companies.
He used Great Stuff [www.greatstuff.dupont.com/] expanding foam to seal around the shaft of the new sillcock.
About Ask This Old House TV:
Homeowners have a virtual truckload of questions for us on smaller projects, and we're ready to answer. Ask This Old House solves the steady stream of home improvement problems faced by our viewers-and we make house calls! Ask This Old House features some familiar faces from This Old House, including Kevin O'Connor, general contractor Tom Silva, plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey, and landscape contractor Roger Cook.
Looking for more step by step guidance on how to complete projects around the house? Join This Old House INSIDER to stream over 1,000 episodes commercial-free: bit.ly/2GPiYbH
Plus, download our FREE app for full-episode streaming to your connected TV, phone or tablet: www.thisoldhouse.com/pages/st...
Follow This Old House and Ask This Old House:
Facebook: bit.ly/ThisOldHouseFB
Twitter: bit.ly/ThisOldHouseTwitter
bit.ly/AskTOHTwitter
Pinterest: bit.ly/ThisOldHousePinterest
Instagram: bit.ly/ThisOldHouseIG
bit.ly/AskTOHIG
For more on This Old House and Ask This Old House, visit us at: bit.ly/ThisOldHouseWebsite
How to Install a Frost-Proof Hose Spigot | Ask This Old House
/ thisoldhouse

[@rampooni8122]

The lady just improved my mood - god bless her

[@aaronwilson9465]

I appreciate her immense enthusiasm

[@keithupton86ku]

Yup, she's full of energy, and very appreciative. I would have liked to work for her.

[@WHU448]

These kind of videos is what KZbin should be promoting! Very instructive & straightforward video!

[@CyndiLH]

Couple of extra points to consider...ensure you drill the hole at a slight downward angle coming out so that any water can flow out of the pipe. Also use closed cell spray foam or waterproof sealant around the pipe. The standard expanding foam insulation actually wicks moisture.

[@johnstraley9057]

Great tips! I wasn't aware the standard foam would be a problem. There are some brands of faucet manufacturers that already have the pitch designed into the unit where the length of the pipe is off-set a few degrees in relation to the face of the mounting flange. Prier is one brand with this feature. The installation doesn't require placing a nylon wedge under the flange to force the pitch. As long as the through-hole in the wall is at least 1 and an 1/8 inch diameter, the faucet should be able to self-drain. The drill diameter used in the video was 1 and 1/4 inch so the faucet should be good to go. To your original point, it is good practice and there would be nothing lost by drilling on a downward angle.

[@whasumara73]

I agree, CyndiLH. I didn't pitch mine last winter...and well, you guessed it. Water all over the crawl space in the Spring.

[@gregpaul6480]

I saw this on tv ,but that sweet lady makes it such a good video to see again.

[@soysan34]

You could tell how much she appreciated it, glad they chose her for the project when you know they literally have thousands of request for help! ♡ I bet she sent him & crew home with cookies :-)

[@_P0tat07_]

I loved how excited she was to see Rich drill through the foundation haha

[@guyfisher2050]

In order for the frost free valves to actually be frost free in the winter, it’s important to disconnect the hose from the valve and let it drain before the winter.

[@JSLEnterprises]

That, and actually installing it with a slope upward into the home... which Richard Trethewey did not. He started with an eyeball level, and by the end was angling downwards into the house. Not to forget to mention, he also didn't deburr the pipe for any of the joints for his tie-in to existing after cutting, as well he never disconnected and removed the old spigot.

[@chupie123456]

@@JSLEnterprises so true I was thinking the same thing.

[@teddyboy252]

Richard makes it look so easy

[@Runehorn]

That lady was so happy to not have to risk her life to turn on the hose anymore!

[@charcoalanderson8010]

@@Phyrre56 Not necessarily cardio related. She could have knee/ joint issues, balance problems (inner ear issues and the like), or something else that makes getting up there difficult. All bodies work differently even if you can't see it from the outside.

[@johnstraley9057]

An informative video. Over the years I've installed and replaced a number of these faucets. Always found it best to first solder a length of pipe to the adapter before threading the adapter onto the faucet. Avoids the need to fully back out the washer/shaft assembly to protect the washer from the heat of the flame.

[@youthised58]

Thanks!

[@KM-ew5rl]

I agree. In theory, just slap the spigot back together but if experience is anything, they don't always seat exactly the way they did from the factory.

[@chupie123456]

great idea thanks

[@jackpast]

Great tip!

[@RocksNRuts4]

wow richard missed that? lol

[@deltaray3]

They weren't kidding when they said old house. I think my parents had that same dryer when I was a kid. Come to think of it, my parents have the same red siding. Hey wait a sec.

[@kevinjr.8768]

deltaray3 is that your grandma lol

[@brianpeters867]

My aunt inherited a Maytag washer and dryer my grandpa bought new in the mid-60’s, for my grandmother. In 1986 he replaced a belt, I repeated the job for her in 2008. Both still in use today.

[@brennanlesann4113]

@@brianpeters867 yjk

[@Dominick_Calvitto.]

Lmmfao that's Great lol,

[@amysanderson8708]

Gbfythbhhhbnbnmmo

[@renzcortado4597]

I seen a lot of his videos and she was the most enthusiastic person ever

[@davidazinger5639]

you learn so much from this guy. thanks Richard !

[@LegoBoy1919]

2:56 the camera man was just like "Make it look like you are doing something"

[@bbtank3000]

I love her energy!

[@GrahamDIY]

Good idea to blow/suck out the dust from the hole BEFORE injecting the expanding foam 😁 Also, expanding foam adheres MUCH better if you slightly damped the service first. So spraying the inside of the hole with a mist of water from a little plant sprayer bottle would have worked well. It’s what I do. Great video though. Gotta love Richard 👍

[@scottharrod2406]

All in all a really good video. Not living in the north I wasn't really sure how the the hose bib like this functioned. Good info.

[@scottderuyter3790]

at 2:16 "the hardest part of this job is drilling through this wall" (wait for it...) oh! i love her reaction..

[@MikMichael100]

Richard is soo badass. He & Tommy are great, they are all the best! Richard is so smooth!! :-) !!

[@amp2345]

-Why dont you turn on the hose. -Wow! The water flows....thats cool!!! lol

[@AJsGreenThumbLLC]

Straight to the point and clear to understand.

[@youthised58]

Did not know about removing the stem/extension B4 soldering to protect seals from melting. Good to know should I ever install this type of valve. Thanks!

[@briangallant5973]

Rich to the rescue! Nice job! I’ve got to replace one myself.

[@cdrom1070]

going to install one of these, I have had WAY too many problems with the exterior spigot. They are a good design idea.. in Hawaii. Loved watching this show with my parents BTW. Just had a spigot fail closed, with my luck I will replace it, forget to close it in the winter and have to replace it again in the spring!

[@SithLandlord]

Hawaii? You guys get freezing temps? This type of Frost-Proof Spigot is meant for places where you get frost and the mechanism would freeze and get damaged.

[@hightower2537]

that dryer is a gem.

[@DrewsLair]

Hightower but probably works better than any one you cam buy today.

[@gamingharvesterhayden2913]

Its a maytag

[@l337pwnage]

Washer ain't bad either. See that blue tint? That's a shipping protector to keep the panel from being scratched before you set it up. You're supposed to peel that off. They make it blue so people can see it, lol. I know this because a got a house that came with a broken washer. It still has that sticker on it. It also has yellow print on the sticker that says "Remove Protective Cover" or something like that.

[@jamesdenny4734]

you guys should do a video with pvc pipe for those who have pvc[just starting DIY]... I had to put one in... took me a while to figure it out, but I got it in, and so far so good

[@common_c3nts]

PVC pipe requires no effort, no skill, and just a cutter. You just cut, primer, and glue. Anyone can do PVC.

[@l337pwnage]

I do like the insulating cover on the old outlet pipe. It's like they want to make every attempt to make sure it freezes, lol.

[@shimes424]

I was wondering if someone else caught that, looking for some explanation I couldn't think of

[@hankkono9470]

This man is a saint!

[@abhilashbabu6612]

How could even somebody push that "dislike button" ? Amazing to see the time and effort to put in to make such a video. Those who 'dislikies' ,try make a video and feel the pain to do the stuff, I've tried it, it takes 10 time more time to edit and upload it. I really appreciate This Old House;s helpfulness.

[@ABeans07]

Wow that's a lot of Teflon

[@KS-gf3tv]

This lady is adorable. I like this video

[@MRrwmac]

Now that was a good video Richard. Good information and excellent plumbing (of course)! Odd that they put the spigot so high in the first place (lazy builders).

[@youtuuba]

Wonder if the house was raised onto a new foundation? Might have been over a crawlspace originally, then raised onto a mostly above-ground basement. My house was like this, and all sorts of things were way too high until I lowered them.

[@ThomasBenjaminBenHuggett]

And value added - replaced the washer hoses just because they needed it and he saw it.

[@ranger178]

they didn't have a hammer drill and 18 inch bit handy was a lot easier to put it through the wood lol

[@juliof970]

I like this video. Good stuff.

[@rawbacon]

Pleasant Lady.

[@everythingexe]

I fell like this would be fun to do as a job. Interact with nice (usually) people and then do some fun work.

[@IZylusI]

Coming from experience as a student, it's fun usually when a lot of manual labor isn't involved. Drilling through concrete is a pain in the butt, especially for a wall as thick as a foundation wall. However doing small tasks like this is kind of fun, not really hard, and not really satisfying in terms of quality of work compared to large scale jobs like finishing a basement from concrete to livable space. I really enjoyed my time working and learning general carpentry, but for a person like me (5'3" and 100 lbs) it's not easy when you gotta carry a semi-heavy tool bag and some extra tools every day. It's safe to say it's not my suited field, but it's nice to know for home fixes, just don't do large scale stuff or else carpenters will hate you =/ And people are usually nice when you're nice to them or do a good job. Others are nice cause they're paying you to do a good job and don't want no cheapskate infill unless they really can't afford it. The heavy work is usually more fun when you have a small group going to work with you that you get along with. Makes the job a lot less stressful with the added hands, faster job well done, and lighter atmosphere when the client wants to chat a bit. (It was really awkward when my supervisor went to buy stuff and the client walks out while we're tearing up a deck without not knowing much other than the basics and some tips and tricks) Sorry for the LONG freaking comment. More knowledge though =P

[@AStanton1966]

The biggest pain is getting people to pay their bills. I had a veterinarian, who happens to be deceased. He said that the people in the cemetery owed him $150,000.

[@HBO1984.]

This is exactly how Steve Lavamoniere or whatever his name is should act and behave with his customers. He's a hell of a plumber and I like watching his videos because we get to see 95% of the job he does but he really needs to work on his people skills. Everybody on This Old House seems so nice, my favorite is Norm Abraham.

[@williamwhite5407]

Thank you . God Bless !!!

[@chrisgraham2904]

I'm not a big fan of the frost-proof hose spigots. I've installed dozens for customers over the years, but they rarely last more than five years without a complete overhaul or full replacement. The brass hose bib is original to my 1926 home. I've replaced washers and bonnet packing twice during the 46 years that I have owned my home and it's good for many more decades. As long as water is turned off inside the house in the fall and the bib left open to drain, it's ready for our -30 deg. winters. Frost-proof spigots are also six times the cost of a standard brass hose bib.

[@johnstraley9057]

I've seen it too, where these valves tend to wear out over a handful of years. To minimize the number of on/off rotation cycles, I've installed one of those brass ball valve hose fittings. This way, the hose bib valve can stay in the open position and the actual flow is controlled by the ball valve. Over the long haul, it's cheaper to replace the ball valve when it wears out in comparison to replacing the hose bib. Avoid the ball valves made from that inferior white metal. They react with a dissimilar metal and can weld itself to the hose bib.

[@AStanton1966]

I think a big problem with the frost-proof spigots is operator area. Because it takes awhile for them to drain, due to the long shut-off, people tend to want to kill them and sock the valve tight after it continues to drain. Be gentle, and they might last longer.

[@issajuan895]

Lmao he cut away before she asked for the price 🤣

[@javiergalvan242]

Another great video! 👍

[@bhasursharma7372]

He left the old valves there for when she grows.

[@keithupton86ku]

Haha

[@adamsucksatyt]

People stop growing at around 18 years So she will now only slowly shrink in size She looks like to be around 55-70 years old

[@lucianonarno1408]

Lol

[@kevinjr.8768]

Adam SK/EN wait people shrink?!

[@TheNemosdaddy]

@@kevinjr.8768 yrs, as you age your spinal column collapses and you shorten in height.

[@amilcarduglasbenites583]

que buen trabajo.gracias

[@JoseHernandez-tc1kl]

Thanks I just learned something

[@gtasandman]

this is better than the last video that has that fancy overpriced adapter you had to use every time

[@brendanwilson4876]

gtasandman i agree.

[@robertf6344]

Fun lady. Hard to believe they'd put the spigot that high.

[@rickj1983]

Shouldn't you add the plumber's tape after you solder the joint 2" inches away rather than take a chance and melt it?

[@Tex200950]

Good job !!!!!!

[@JO-jq5cp]

Good vid

[@mrstanskaggs1]

Can you repair these long taps like the reseating of the old style? Or do you have to pull the long neck out and replace?

[@1310Robbo]

That was cool.

[@MHoff-wm4jk]

I wish they would do a replacment spigot when the lines are in the wall. With no access and not in a basement of crawlspace.

[@Odin029]

Pretty similar process only a part of a floor or a part of a wall will have to be cut out. Or part of the floor and the wall.

[@_P0tat07_]

Lol, Rich had the drill in hammer mode when he was driving the screws in. Also he used the wrong type of screws. I would have used a flat head screw. Although I suppose the countersink head screw works as well.

[@snoww2009]

That’s cool. For the inside connection, is it okay to use threaded pipe/tube , no soldering?

[@danielwhite9212]

Great job . But definitely wouldn’t have placed heat on the adapter after the teflon was installed. Take an extra minute or two to dry fit , then sweat . Then stick the new hose bib in the wall , teflon , and screw . Don’t risk a leak when it could have been prevented

[@RJMAalex]

Should have 90ed out of the hose bib and stayed totally horizontal to the tie in and used a stop and drain valve so the residual water can be drained out!!

[@Patmanduu]

They still make hose bibs with those deplorable mounting slots that are always too close to the pipe. The screws are rarely installed properly and eventually the bib comes loose. All they would need to do is make the flange a tiny bit wider and it would save everyone a headache.

[@chadyost444]

You need a rappel house and a wall brace, to step up 4 inchs?

[@jackcolt6875]

Any reason why you could not use a shark bite adaptor...it would be solder free and you would not have to worry about damaging the seals?

[@alikazzaz3842]

Hi Richard my faucet looks like same as in this vid but don't have any access from inside the house any idea how you replace it

[@larryrodriguez7119]

Don't forget to disconnect the hose in the winter time it would keep the water from draining and split the pipe in the winter.

[@eloquentlight]

5:35 - Man, I wish Rich would have said that sooner before I flooded my whole basement...

[@george5120]

Di-electric union is needed because a copper pipe is being connected to a steel spigot. They are dissimilar metals. Teflon tape, instead, is all that he uses.

[@billporter8010]

The spigot may be chrome plated brass.

[@mcswain69]

That’s where he will nail her for the big money repair job.

[@garyduran1]

What kind of spigot do I use for outside potable water?

[@eddiej2393]

Big fan, Richard. How do I know when it's necessary to ream the tubing after cutting it?

[@MeesterSteefy]

You always do

[@NickDe39]

In Wisconsin, maybe we are dumb, we put our basements under ground, this one is away above ground and really doesn't have the R factor of a six inch wall. Just say not being able to reach the water faucet is not the only problem. We do rely on sump pumps, good to have a backup system in case of power failure.

[@loisyoung2372]

what size are the treads at the end of the hose bib. It is a model 17. I thought I had every fitting known to man. I would like it to be an elbow if possible. I would like to avoid shark bite which is what leaked and destroyed my wall.

[@beyondwithin6897]

Could you show more videos on sharkbite type or pex fittings for plumbing purposes?

[@shimes424]

Sharkbite will cause the faucet to spin. Although he used masonry screws, I never have the chance to. I'm usually replacing faucets and don't have enough material for the screw to hold, so I always solder the joint and silicone it into place (keeping the important plastic downward angle washer in place) Sharkbites would be SOOO much easier but the hole is usually too big to get both screws into enough material

[@scottvan1898]

I wondering how long,the lady had been used the stool to turn on the water hose...

[@venividivici4253]

She’s fun to watch

[@ranger178]

you don't put any silicone caulk on outside to keep water out?

[@jdubya54]

What about the flange to drain the water back out when turned off. I watched three this old house videos and none talked about the white flange on the outside

[@sparkyobrian6417]

wish he would have snagged abit of rebar the first hole :D hey Vinney, gimme another pound of flux, I dont have enough on the fitting yet., I love these shows honestly

[@richardglazer7813]

Nice video. Should have removed old faucet not to have future problems with it.

[@mytten]

Does the water that is trapped in like the last 4 inches not freeze?

[@AlexSosaBolivia]

He didn’t seem too concerned about mounting that spigot at a slight downward angle to facilitate drainage.

[@KR-ne1bl]

Alejandro Sosa he doesn’t seem too concern about your comment either

[@AlexSosaBolivia]

@@KR-ne1bl His lack of concern in no way invalidates my observation.

[@VladTheImpalerTepesIII]

There's no need to drill the hole at an angle. It's just need to be large enough so that the pipe going through the wall has enough room to tilt at an angle when the angled spacer that comes with the faucet is installed between the faucets and the wall. However, he did not install this spacer because he is basically just another high-priced hack with a TV show.

[@AlexSosaBolivia]

Vlad The Impaler Țepeș III and a downward angle won’t help a bit if you’re st00pid enough to keep the hose attached over the winter.

[@VladTheImpalerTepesIII]

@@AlexSosaBolivia I agree and posted in another comment... "These frost free spigots are just fancy, poorly made junk. The solution is to install a regular old hose bib/spigot and properly winterize it before the freezing cold weather comes. There's no need for fancy "frost free" hose bibs. What tiny bit of water is left in the spigot after winterizing procedure is done properly will not be anywhere near enough to expand and damage the pipe or spigot when it freezes. Winterizing your outdoor spigot is easy. Step 1: disconnect hose from the spigot. Step 2: turn spigot on (FULL OPEN). Step 3: turn off the water to the spigot inside the house. Done. Do NOT close the outside spigot, leave it full open all winter. DO NOT REATTACH THE HOSE! LEAVE IT OFF! People have been doing this for decades and decades with no problems."

[@Xizervexius]

Great vid, should have removed the old hose bib and piping though.

[@robmac8590]

As usual super great video, but I have a question about Teflon tape... Richard wraps the threads many turns. How many turns is "just right" and how many turns is too much? I was told that you want just one or two layers of tape on the thread. Was this an old wive's tale?

[@flat-earther]

I'm not an expert but I would say 2 layers is good. Tapered threads are supposed to seal by themselves and I think teflon tape or pipe dope is used so you can tighten the threads without too much friction.

[@flat-earther]

7:20 I don't get how a stainless braided hose is less prone to splitting or bursting than a non braided hose. They both are some kind of rubber or plastic hose just that one has a stainless braiding around it so sure it's more protected against abrasion and abuse but otherwise it seems like both would last the same amount of time as long as they weren't abused because they both have the same plastic hose, or do they? Tell me your thoughts.

[@robwebnoid5763]

Here in 2021. Why wasn't the original higher spigot not removed? You can see it at the end of the video. It would make a nice backup or secondary water source, however it's still leaky, so that leak should have been repaired, just as Richard has done before in other episodes.

[@greencable2222]

no caulk? concrete screws orplastic anchorand stainless screws?

[@scottfrasier156]

the shark bite technology may have been interesting for this application..

[@YuriyRusko]

How?

[@darrylfitzys8632]

That lady’s been outside playing with that hose since 2016.

[@tryinout1]

Looked like a different hose also. Did not take any time to clear the air out of the hose, got water right away.

[@davidg8032]

I think the hole should have been a little smaller as the concrete screws were very close to the hole.

[@Trials-and-Tribulations]

Why didn't you put chalking insulator around the Spigot before screwing it to the outer concrete wall on the outside.

[@LumenChaser]

Yea I was thinking the same, they usually come with a Teflon plastic spacer/washer to go between the house and the silcock to create a better seal

[@billrossey1429]

Would it be wise to slope the Frost-Proof Hose Spigot a tiny bit so the water on the outside would drain out and not freeze ?

[@Tuftybigfoot]

Bill Rossey yes if there’s room or if your wall is not to wide, but there won’t be much water left in the pipe to freeze.

[@samjg1]

The white plastic spacer (shown around 1:47) that he should have used on the outside is tapered (thicker at the top than bottom) to force the spigot to slope down to the outside to allow any standing water in the tube to drain out.

[@bluecatninja]

Does the heat hurt the tape?

[@williamnewman8850]

Ok missed an important part . Faucet should be not be level going thur wall. should be higher on inside then outside to allow any water remaining in faucet barrel to drain outside. Manufacturer recommends 5 degree downward pitch to outside .

[@jontopham2742]

They just left the old hose bib that's already leaking...

[@RocksNRuts4]

why didnt he make the tie in level w/ the new spigot or visa versa?(inside)

[@erlinavicente7411]

What if you are getting your supply from the main. Exterior.

[@skamravec]

Doesn't the heat damage teflon tape during the soldering?

[@JohnnyDont]

No, more than a Teflon frying pan. Heat it hot enough to accept the solder, just not hot enough to make the pipe molten and you're good. 👍🏻

[@HowardSantiago-qn4kv]

I'm going to Maak it

[@gnome2024]

Heea we go again!

[@XzTS-Roostro]

Leik Buhttah

[@adamsucksatyt]

I'm going to make it!!!!!!!!!

[@tmq1384]

Like Buttah!

[@lh98]

Is it just me or does that new copper slant up? Do it right all even horizontally Richard

[@charlest.velten6983]

RIGHT WAY TO DO IT, BUT ON LONG ISLAND IN NY. THAT WOULD BE AROUND 800 DOLLAR JOB !

[@AStanton1966]

We have a plumber in our town who got sick of going out on calls for estimates and then to only lose the bid. So he starting charging $100 for an estimate.

[@HaloGTMaster94]

Free!!!!!

[@ScottMiller-tu3gg]

He applies Teflon tape and screws the copper fitting on the valve end, takes the valve all apart, then later uses a torch to solder the pipe on to the copper fitting - melting the Teflon tape that he put on the fitting on the valve end - why not solder the pipe first, then screw it on to the faucet end? Why did he not caulk (or use great stuff - like he did inside) around the outside of the faucet when he installed it? And how did he know, without taking measurements, that he wouldn`t have drilled through another pipe or anything else on or near the inside wall - wait, I know - he has superman vision!

[@Ward00]

Someone else did the preliminary work = thickness of the cement foundation. The spray insulation could have expanded through the foundation to the outside so calk on the outside wasn't needed.

[@mcswain69]

Could have saved a 90 bend if he would have planned a little better and moved the whole thing up 3 inches

[@AlexFlockhart]

For the part where he was mounting the faucet outside, the pilot holes he was drilling was so close to the hole for the pipe that there wouldn't be enough material for the screw to grab without breaking the concrete. Also why was his drill still on the hammer function while driving the screw? I'm not a plumber and this isn't really a criticism, I'm about to install one of these on my home so I'm just trying to find out what I'm missing here.

[@mcswain69]

Surprised that more people didn’t catch that.

[@joebuttas26]

What if your drilling in to the concrete and hit rebar?

[@issacrobertson]

you fill the hole with hydraulic cement and start over

[@walterbrunswick]

He didn't ream out (deburr) the copper tubing when cut. Will cause turbulence, and cavitation!!

[@hahalolcakes]

I was looking through the comments to see if anyone else noticed

[@jimrussell8080]

He also didn't install an reciprocating dingle arm to help reduce sinusoidal repleneration

[@walterbrunswick]

@@jimrussell8080 you are just so funny

[@pilljr.3331]

Can you really just unscrew it from the outside if it needs to be replaced?

[@SithLandlord]

Yes, may require a little work to break up the expanding foam that he put in the hole, but a knife or even screwdriver shoved in there can break that stuff off easily before you attempt to twist it off.