How To Install A Sub Panel Next To Existing Main Panel

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

My Favorite Solar Panel Cost Estimator - www.solarreviews.com/solar-estimator?aff=66965&cam=713

[@CowboysKeith]

I was hopeful that I could find an estimator without having to sign up for endless solar calls and spam. Sadly, THIS is not that estimator.

[@joebrooks984]

What if there is no place to put the neutral in the main panel?

[@parkershaw8529]

One question please. When you relocate those two circuits over to the new sub panel, can you just bring the hot wires over, leave the neutrals and grounds inside the main panel??

[@samgonzalez6859]

You guys are by far the best diy channel on the net. Your explanations and then the fast forward view is genius. Especially for people with limited time. Your emphasis on safety is top shelf!

[@mnrobards]

Great Video. Two things I would do different. Torque all of the terminations. and add some white tape on the neutral.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Nice additions, thanks for the feedback 👍

[@markkempton4579]

I was definitely looking for the white neutral or some other indication.

[@benjaminc.m.9873]

Yep! Mark those wires. I like to mark one of the lines for 240V with red tape too

[@sku32956]

I would use a green ground screw to attach to the ground bar to the subpanel itself .

[@whattheschmidt]

@@sku32956 The green ground screw in a breaker panel is for bonding neutral and ground, which is done in the main panel, not the sub panel. (Sometimes the bond is before the "main panel" even).

[@jimpie231]

I did something similar n my old house, I added a 50amp breaker in a new panel, connected it with a metal conduit. Both panels were the same size so I covered everything and it had 2 doors that opened out exposing both. The doors came off the wall about 1 1/2” and across the top was a 2x4 that was about 2” higher than the panels, but far enough away, that you could connect metal conduit (code in my area) without damaging or cutting anything. I also had a dropped ceiling so anything could be easily added anywhere. In my current home I added a 50amp sub panel in the garage, before I finished the basement. The panel was added for a welder and more power in the garage. This panel was sent in like yours and a plywood cover and small door for the welder plug-in. Thanks, your video’s are always wonderful and helpful. God bless you!

[@johnvillalovos]

I would recommend using a torque wrench/driver. Current code requires it and frankly it is a good idea. I think a lot of people would be surprised on how hard it is to tighten things to the correct torque.

[@m3rdpwr]

Also to wiggle the stranded main wires a bit and retorque them.

[@DanielinLaTuna]

When I worked in a power plant, the electricians used to open each panel once a year and retorque each connection to spec. Couldn’t afford to have any circuits failing and compromising our availability to the grid

[@m3rdpwr]

@@DanielinLaTuna yeah, I would imagine the heat expansion and cool shrink cycles the wires go through, could cause an issue.

[@felixchien1664]

what is the torque required?

[@m3rdpwr]

@@felixchien1664 I think you can usually see the torque spec on the side of the breaker itself. It can vary from manufacturer to manufacture.

[@sadbuttrue343]

I always used cardboard that went across the lugs for extra protection. Many times had to wire hot due to customer needs. Really easy to cut a scrap piece to fit between the flanges. It's way too easy to forget about those HOT lugs.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Great suggestion, thanks for the feedback!

[@mikejohnston179]

I put some electrical tape over mine, as a more permanent solution.

[@houseman2414]

​@@EverydayHomeRepairsNewer QO and Homeline 150-225A load centers come with plastic lug covers. I don't know about the little panels like the 100-125A ones, though.

[@ronald5728]

I was going to suggest the same... a piece of cardboard.

[@vince9486]

You can buy heavy duty universal lug covers at HD or Lowes

[@rhtservicesllc]

One suggestion would be to use red electrical tape and white electrical tape on the ends of the wire between the panels. This will make it easier to diagnose if there a problem with one of the hit phases and make it obvious about which wire is the neutral, since all the wires between panels are black.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Yeah, I agree that would have been a nice touch. Thanks for the feedback!

[@houseman2414]

Yeah, lack of colored tape on at least the neutral and grounds (had to run #3, so no green available) would have failed inspection here. I go one step further and use red tape on one leg and make sure I keep that on the right side of all my panels. It's easier to make sure I'm keeping things balanced between the legs that way, too.

[@kommoncents0000]

You did a great job bringing the wires to the sub-panel. I did a similar install only I put a 14" metal access panel under the sub panel to give easier access to make future connections.

[@DanielinLaTuna]

That’s exactly what I will do! Thanks for sharing

[@kommoncents0000]

@@DanielinLaTuna Also put a 2 x 4 piece in there about 8" from the box so you can staple the romex that comes out of the box.

[@flunky14]

I believe it’s code to identify circuits when relocating them such as in this instance. Meaning being able to identify which neutral goes with which hot, both in the main panel and in the sub panel. This is done so that in the future if you ever need one of those circuits on either a GFCI or AFCI breaker, then you be able to do that. Don’t know the exact code article but I was looking into it a few months ago when relocating a main panel and we would put zip ties around the hot/neutral together to identify them as belonging on the same circuit.

[@chrisruss7863]

In my opinion having the hot neutral and ground coming from the same nm sheathing sufficiently identifies them, and this would apply more to an environment where conduit is used with multiple circuits in each conduit. But I haven't read the code so I'm not sure.

[@donmclean1220]

But his extended wires going to the subpanel aren’t in Romex, so identifying them is a good idea.

[@flunky14]

@@chrisruss7863 the wire he uses from the main panel to the sub panel isn’t romex, he uses thhn. There’s no easy way to identify from the sub panel which neutral belongs to which hot

[@chrisruss7863]

@donmclean1220 yes but he doesn't bring the neutral into the subpanel, only the hot. So where is he going to identify the wires if not in the main panel, where the romex enters?

[@flunky14]

@@chrisruss7863 yes he does, in the sub panel for the branch circuits there’s very obviously 2 hot wires and 2 neutral wires. If you’re looking at the sub panel, there’s no way to easily identify which neutral belongs to which hot.

[@davidgodfrey2956]

Starting work on my sub panel today and this is the very video I'm using as guide. Thx for helping us all out.

[@davidgodfrey2956]

Scott---Finished up today and checked with multimeter just like you did yours. All good. Future proofed for mini split install. Thx again for your channel.

[@pomrosellc3520]

@@davidgodfrey2956 NICE ONE - Congrats........

[@joekagerer]

Thanks for this video I had a sub panel professionally installed when I bought my 60 yo house 10 years ago. I do a lot of my own single circuit stuff but this was a good primer for a panel. Not rocket science but a lot of things you need to be aware of. I will probably never do this job myself, but it was good information for me.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the feedback!

[@joekagerer]

@@EverydayHomeRepairs I've really enjoyed your videos you do a great job

[@TheJXB1]

You make it look easy, which, I think, is the point. You instill confidence. Thank you!

[@LordSaliss]

That spacing you ended up with after cutting everything was absolutely beautiful. I know it is drastically cheaper using the parts that you did, and that is a big reason even on its own, but why not take this opportunity when needing the subpanel for solar to use a smart panel like Leviton or Span? Being able to get really accurate readings on every circuit in that subpanel is pretty useful for seeing power draw when on battery (if you have one) or from your solar directly. I like the Leviton panel personally since it both looks nice, has indicators positioned so you can see status with the panel door closed, and you can choose specific circuits to be smart and go with cheaper breakers that are not smart for other circuits you don't care about, or the potential to upgrade to a smart breaker whenever you want.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Yeah, I will undoubtedly be jumping into smart panels in the near future. I have been waiting a bit for the products to mature but I know my friend Joel @electricproacademy is a Big fan of SPAN 👍

[@hassanbazzi3545]

Knowledge is power. I know I will not attempt to diy but I have some knowledge and reference to hire a contractor. Thank you for sharing

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

💯 I am coming to the realization this is a large part of my audience that is why I am starting to work on cost estimators and maybe even a Professional referral system some time in the future. All of us are limited on time and I also hire out certain jobs around the house for various reasons.

[@beastslayer9153]

@@EverydayHomeRepairsYes, That is why I am here.

[@ncooty]

Thanks for the video. Surprised not to see a whole-panel surge protector.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Yeah, that is on the list for sure 👍

[@100vg]

You are really going at it these days. I wish I had your energy and your back and neck. 🤣 Looks like you covered all the bases. I'd be willing to do that kind of work, but it would take me a lot longer because I'd have to take breaks. That is, I have the electrical and electronics experience, but I'm not a professional electrician, and I'd also have to study all the codes to be sure it would all meet spec. Looking forward to the next one. Thanks, Scott.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the feedback and the support 🙌

[@fuzzymonkey-qe1xp]

Yeah go ahead and do it yourself and if something happens like a fire because you are too cheap to pay someone who knows what they are doing your liable

[@djKenpLan09]

I just want to say, WHAT A GREAT VIDEO! Thanks for sharing!!!!

[@andypaine7489]

This is a great video. I'm having a solar system installed and my electrical panel is maxed out, so this was exactly what I needed to know.

[@rustyclark6263]

Good job!I've done a few of those after I retired.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thx Rusty 👍

[@TheWinterfan]

Those Wago butt splices look interesting. Thanks for the tip

[@Swish36]

wow, that's it? I was expecting a lot more. Explanation was clear and concise, very easy to understand

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

For sure, happy to help!

[@ncooty]

The main lugs are a dissimilar metal from copper. Therefore, it's a good idea to use an oxidation inhibitor (and remember to wiggle and retighten those stranded conductors).

[@AdamS-lh2ug]

You would think he would know this as his best buddy is Joel from Electrical Pro Academy.

[@donl1410]

@@AdamS-lh2ug Right...

[@johnhooton3286]

If lugs are rated CU/AL it's not required.

[@jsb7546]

Why wiggle and retighten them when I can crimp a ferrule on.

[@jsb7546]

​@John Hooton which depends on manufacture specs always always always check manufacture specs.

[@mikeienuso1926]

Hi. As usual, informative and plenty of insight. I have a 100amp Panel and will put the sub panel like yours. Those 2 breakers you took out of main and put into Sub. for the install of 100amp breaker on main. So the question is; Every New Circuit goes to the Sub. Panel? If I want to add a Split System I wire it to Sub panel. 240 Car Charger etc? Is that correct? Thanks for your time Sir. Mike ienuso.

[@jonvanhouten4426]

This video is really helpful and coming at at the right time for my project. I currently have a 100 amp main panel and need to add a subpanel to finish off my covid basement finishing project. what size sub panel can I add to my main panel. Thanks.

[@manabouthome]

Good job on the video. I enjoy the channel. Not to throw a wet blanket on your plans, but your bus bar rating needs to be considered in this situation. NEC says (depending on pertinent factors and calculations) you may not be able to add a solar power source to that main panel... if you have a 200 Amp Main Panel, with a 200 Amp Main Circuit Breaker, and 200 Amp rated Bus Bars. For example, if you add an additional 40 Amps of solar power source, factored in @125%, your 200 Amp Main Bus can now be overloaded with 250 Amps of current. Depending on power source and other factors and considerations (i.e.- landing 100 Amp sub panel/solar feed right next to Main Breaker, vs. on the other end of the bus) and calculations, that won't pass an electrical inspection. The new sub panel bus bars will be even more limited, since it has a lower current rating (125 Amp bus with 100Amp feeder CB, plus 125% solar current). Your new sub panel is inadequate for large solar and can't be used as it is. One solution, is to upgrade the capacity of your Main Panel, with a new Main Panel of higher bus bar Amperage capacity. Another solution, is to connect your solar power source to the service side of your 200 Amp Main Breaker, between the electric meter and the Main Breaker. See the existing code that permits that. Of course everything must comply with the NEC and AHJ requirements. Here's some of the references - 705.12, 705.12 (B)(3)(1-6), 230.82(6), lots of others. Good luck!

[@highvoltage1979]

I think you may be misinterpreting that code section. For instance, that is supplying power not using power. It will be supplying power to circuits that would otherwise be supplied by the utility so to me it wouldn’t make much sense . So for instance, 40 amps at 125% is 50 amperes. I would believe that the bus bars would have to be at least rated at 50 amps. I’m just a carpenter so I’m just guessing

[@manabouthome]

@@highvoltage1979 Yes, the solar inverter is supplying power. And the 200 Amp Service is supplying power. Together they supply more power than the bus is rated to handle. Theoretically, the bus can possibly be carrying more than 200 Amps to the connected loads. Since there's more than 200 Amps available, the Main Breaker won't trip. So the bus isn't protected from overload. What are the odds the bus could be overloaded? Doesn't really seem likely, does it? That's why NEC allows 120% of the bus rating. But, if there's a 200 Amp Main breaker, plus 50 Amps of solar, that exceeds 120% of 200 Amps by 10 Amps. That's a fail.

[@highvoltage1979]

@@manabouthome That does make sense, I didn’t look at it in that manner. Thanks

[@manabouthome]

@@highvoltage1979 Thanks for asking. I imagine there's a lot of misunderstanding around that, until it's clearly explained. I certainly had to sit and think on it after I first learned it!

[@manabouthome]

I should clarify here, that the 120% leeway on the busbar rating is per 705.12(B)(3)(2) "Where two sources, one a primary power source, and the other, another power source, are located at opposite ends of a busbar that contains loads, the sum of 125% of the power source's output current and the rating of the overcurrent device protecting the busbar, shall not exceed 120 percent of the ampacity of the busbar." However, due to the location of the 100A CB in this video, that doesn't apply. I think 705.12(B)(3)(1) would be applicable - "The sum of 125 percent of the power source(s) output circuit current and the rating of the overcurrent device protecting the busbar shall not exceed the ampacity of the busbar". So, the busbar rating is taken at 100% (not 120%), due to the position of the 100A CB in this case. This would make it worse than I described in the comment above.

[@ronald5728]

Excellent video. One of the best diy channels out there.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks, I appreciate the support 👍

[@erikcable1755]

Good show here, for you DIY'ers go ahead and pull a permit, costs under 200 bucks. Let the inspector sign off on your installation. keep a record for insurance coverage.

[@fotopdo]

Great video, I am rewatching this in preparation to do the same. I do want to point out that there is only ONE phase in a standard residential panel. I was confused by this for years, because people often refer to the legs as phases. During every 1/60 of a second the voltage rises to 120 on one leg and then 120 on the other. When you graph that you get a sine wave, or a single phase. To have a second phase you would need a second set of legs alternating slightly before or after, or “out of phase”. In the real world there is single and 3 phase. 3 phase power is 3 sets of legs each 120 degrees out of phase with each other. 3 phase motors are more powerful and run more smoothly because it is similar to having 3 pairs of people spinning a merry go round vs 1 pair.

[@pld8993]

Residential systems are usually what's called split phase whereby a single phase from the power company's 3-phase is split through a transformer, providing two legs that are 120V each sharing a single neutral. Think of a two piston engine (legs) with one exhaust pipe (neutral) and you'll get the idea. However, in the field it's common to call both legs phases. Technically not correct but more like electrician field slang. Not unlike when someone checks a circuit for power; they're not, power is wattage and they're checking for voltage. But when someone asks an electrician why they don't have power, everybody knows what that means. Like any trade, electrical has its own language that non-electricians may not understand fully. When a 3-phase motor loses 1 phase, for example, we say it's single phasing. Again, trade lingo, not necessarily what's happening electrically.

[@johnsb1550]

I personally like the metal level that was very close to the live main lugs. That is why you should call the electric company and have the power shut off. Just curious, doesn't this need a permit and inspection for installation?

[@kcuhc84]

When you stuck your left arm into the wall cavity on the left, how did you know where to position the hole saw to meet up with the knock out on the existing panel?

[@beastslayer9153]

There was a center drill done inside the old panel. You can see it when he breaks off the hole.

[@buynsell365]

Great video. If I understand correctly........in the main panel the neutral and ground are bonded (meaning they are joined...so ground and neutral are the same) ..............and then on the subpanel...........you install a new bar.........to seperate the Neutral from Ground..........however both of those wires go back to the main panel.........and are screwed down to the neutral and ground bar that is bonded........................why do you sperate them if they are all connected to the same place ?

[@mengchhornchhun2783]

yes you only need to bond neutral and ground on main/service panel so if there are any fault the current still be able to complete from ground that bond to the neutral and return back to the transformer (complete circuit). If you bond in your sub panel so you just create multiple path for the fault and it can be dangerous for any other equipment that connect to any outlet. I hope that would clarify for you since it took me awhile to understand that point too.

[@HugDeeznueces]

As long as it passes the smoke test, all is good!

[@dadlaponizil3687]

Wow. Thank you. Your helped me get started on a similar project. Thank you! What a class act.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Happy to help!

[@vinceveltri7732]

Understanding the work you performed and the title of the video, but with the installation of the PVC prior to the sub-panel installation, wouldn't you want to install 2 or 3 PVC tubes into the top of the subpanel (to the ceiling of your garage) to eliminate the future task of re-opening the wall?

[@johnhooton3286]

I noticed your main panel had a few ground and neutral wires in the same hole . This is a no-no, neutrals have to be one per hole. Depending on panel some do allow more than one ground per hole.

[@brianbushay8283]

It looks like you are working on an exterior wall so a 2 1/4 inch hole would exceed the size you can drill in a bearing wall with 2x4 studs. Also what electrical code revision are you working under and are you required to have a whole house surge protector with the panel upgrade?

[@joetripp123]

he did say at 3:50 that he had a double wall thickness to work with so I'm guessing there's some type of inner non load bearing wall in place.

[@velocity91]

Great video! I will be needed to do this in the near future, as my existing panel is at capacity.

[@Che9009]

Question - I'm from a different country, but is it in american code to leave all earth wires unsleeved and exposed? Every vid I see on youtube has them exposed. Back here, we must put a sleeving over all the earthing wires. Is it hazardous to leave them exposed like that?

[@en2oh]

man o' man. Couldn't be clearer or simpler. I really appreciate your practical approach to maintaining code while DIY'ing a project! I needed to see those in-line Wago Connectors. PERFECT! Thanks Do Wagu Connectors have to be enclosed? ie within the box or can they be spliced outside the box?

[@edgarmolina1980]

This is a great video, very well explained and very educative. This is great, keep it up bro.

[@BobCosler]

Great Video. Please clarify the need to separate neutral and ground in the subpanel. I'm having issues with tripping of GFCIs that I believe are related to this issue.

[@ThisReckless]

I know they are supposed to be but if you watch towards the end I think he puts the ground into the neutral bar. It's hard to tell but yeah he does specify that.

[@snakeplisken2123]

This was just what I was looking for. I need to add a bunch of 220v outlets in my garage. I won’t torque mine either.

[@SammyFender]

Good video. I’ve done this in my garage. Lookin forward to the solar install. I wanna do all diy

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Me too, give me about 2 months and we will get it up and running. First system will be small-ish at about 4.5 kW to get my feet wet.

[@TomCee53]

It’s interesting that 40 circuits is full without overloading the 200A main. I guess as many devices use less power it’s possible, but you should have mentioned that in the opening. Also, some main panels have sub panel feed lugs after the main breaker. Check codes and local requirements. You were lucky that the knockout in the main and sub panels fit so well with the elbow. It might be wise to check that fit. Regarding the hot main lugs, I put duct tape over them to add another later of safety. No guarantee, but better safe than sorry. Likewise gloves are good, but no guarantee.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the feedback Tom 👍

[@fuzzymonkey-qe1xp]

Another guy who doesn't know what the F he's talking about. Duct tape is conductive and illegal to use

[@jeffreyspence2510]

The average load on a 200 amp service is 60 amps. Not even close to an overload.

[@TomCee53]

@@fuzzymonkey-qe1xp I should have been more specific. I used non-metallized tape temporarily so that the back of my hand wouldn’t brush the contacts. As I was finishing the install, I found that the box manufacturer had provided some rubber boots to cover the main lugs. I agree that duct tape is not tested for conductivity, since it is not intended for electrical use. I might have just as well stuffed a rag over the lugs, but tape was handy, and about the right dimensions. I did mention that tape is no guarantee and not a substitute for being careful.

[@TomCee53]

@@jeffreyspence2510 Averages mean very little in real life, My boiler can draw up 100 amps, and my water heaters are 40A each, so on a cold day with laundry and a shower running, I’d be drawing 180A. My concern is that as we add more and more circuits, the potential for overload rises, much like the old joke… “What do you mean I’m overdrawn, I still have checks in the checkbook.” 🤓

[@MB-ir8xf]

In my area (Midwest) pvc conduit is illegal, splices inside the panel are not allowed.

[@heroknaderi]

I enjoyed it. Great job thank you for your time 👍😎

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Happy to help!

[@DanielinLaTuna]

Thanks for this video. It serves my purpose, but also the other video that you mentioned, about a remote panel, which is what I’m also planning, since only one circuit serves it, and the laundry is located there. The washer and dryer really ought to be on separate circuits, and I have a spare fridge there too, and run either a window A/C or a space heater (summer or winter options). Also I have a large lot and want to run power to the RV (30 amps), to the shop (another 30 amps), and to the spa/hot tub. Seems like those last three will be supported by one 125 amp sub.

[@governmentlard1617]

Great video. I wonder if there is any way to cover up those lugs below the main breaker. Even working slowly around my panel, I have found myself coming an inch or so away from those lugs and I wish Square D made some type of plastic/rubber cover that could be snapped over them temporarily.

[@simongchadwick]

I use thick cardboard cut to fit over and around those lugs, which makes me more comfortable along with insulated gloves. But your point is a good one!

[@johnvillalovos]

Most likely Square D does make some plastic covers. As all new panels are required to have covers over the lugs per the current NEC. Now figuring out the part number in order to buy the plastic covers...

[@fuzzymonkey-qe1xp]

Pull the meter oh that's right you don't know jack. Keep your dirty hands out of my work. No place for amateurs

[@mikejohnston179]

Even some electrical tape will help. Cut some strips of tape, a few inches long, and affix them to the black plastic on either side of the lugs...such that it covers the lugs. It's not perfect, but it helps a ton.

[@fuzzymonkey-qe1xp]

If your not a licensed electrician then you have 0 business working on live power. It's all good until you get killed. All you need to do is pull the meter. If you can't do that call a guy like me

[@DavidLucBelanger]

I would suggest to get black, red, white and green wire next time. It's the same price per foot and you can quickly identify which wire is what.

[@loganocchionero6621]

I think you should spend more time talking about how careful people need to be around those live lugs. It's only 240V, but if you were to short those out, it would be much more catastrophic than a standard 240V short. Because there is relatively so little wire between the transformer, and such large wire, the short circuit current available in a short circuit condition is huge compared to any other short you'd see in your house. You could easily cause an arc flash.

[@mikejohnston179]

I once bumped the bare ground wire for a range to a main feeder lug. I think it was a 6 AWG ground wire. The neutral and ground were bonded at the stove, and the neutral was already hooked up in the panel. As I was routing that ground wire...it touched a main lug, but for just a quick moment. SCARY. Nothing bad happened, other than noise, light, the wire was warm, and I needed a new change of underwear. Could have been a LOT worse!

[@robertgrlic6505]

Great video! Not certain in Canada, I believe the CEC ( Canadian Electrical Code) doesn't allow splicing inside of main panel if exiting to a different system. If any Canadian electrician can comment.

[@crashd1n3r]

That is correct.

[@jasonmelfi9855]

Correct!

[@parkershaw8529]

If so, then what do you do to relocate those two circuits in Canada?

[@Hunter-vb8wo]

I’ve learned a ton from your channel, thanks for all you do. I’m in the process of planning the Ecoflow smart home panel 2. Question, which wire size requirement chart do you use? The one I was looking at appears to allow the use of 4 awg for a short run of 100 amps? Also, if I split the SHP2 and put the DHP input 50’ away do I use 2|0?

[@keith2498]

Just pure talent. I can do a ceiling fan install😂

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Those can some times be harder than expected. Balancing everything up on a ladder is never fun. That is one of the killer applications of those WAGO lever nuts.

[@ssilva717]

Great video - very clear and well produced, thank you!

[@jayjudd6518]

I did that years ago, in my case it was a 60 amp breaker to a 12 pole auxiliary box. I mounted it to the lower right side of the main panel and went through the side.

[@FernandoGomez-rs2pd]

Great work I am currently trying to run a 60 amp sub panel from my main to shed it's around 50 ft planning underground conduit my question is what size conductors is recommended thanks for info

[@joshuaarellano6600]

You can also use tray cable or SER to feed the sub panel. That's my preference for sure, must easier to work with.

[@glockmaestro]

Great video! Well done and very informative

[@chrisdaley2200]

Your neutral feed wire to the sub panel should be white wire or identified with white tape at each end.. good video!

[@michaellike5037]

Lol Right on point! Always use phase tape to id conductors.

[@louisviciedo]

Great video as usual, regarding installing a 50a breaker on my sub panel and specifically capcity. I have a new Tesla and want to add a 50a breaker on my garage 100a sub panel. Can you confirm that this is no-no please?

[@jmcinnis621]

Scott, basic question for projects like this where main power is OFF..... how did you setup you work area LGIHTING???? thx

[@da324]

I was going to wire a small subpanel for my generator initially, but I've decided I want to have room for some future mini splits ac units. Can I wire the subpanel to accept the plug from my generator and have room left for designated breakers for future split units in one sub panel? Do they make sub panels that work like that? Thanks...great video, very well explained...

[@robertt8273]

When i added a panel, not being a pro, i covered those big terminals at the bottim if the main box to prevent any accidents/death. I do not like working around live circuits. Watching you even made my heart skip a bit.

[@hungthai1207]

Hello Everyday Home Repair. Thanks! for the very detail and useful informations. I wonder if instead of a lower amp sub panel, should I make it a 200 amp sub? Then I don't have to buy and make room for the sub breakers using HOML2225 sub feed lug kit? My question is; Is it what this kit for? Please explain what are the (+) and (-) of doing it this way? THANKS1

[@mohavie2360]

wow, you made it look so easy.. one question and this might sound dumb but with the sub panel, i now can treat it like a regular panel right? could I have my generator breaker install on the sub panel instead of the main?

[@Geekydrones]

Great video. This brings up a question. Once you do this do your need the city to come out and inspect it in your area?

[@db8823]

Super video. Thanks for all your work.

[@marblemill]

I've got main service cables coming in from the bottom left and wrapping all the way around to the top for the main breaker. It seems the only way to work in there is to be constantly touching the service entry cables. Of course the insulation is good, but in most cases I see everyone saying to avoid any contact with them even though the insulation is fine. Thoughts?

[@weslindsey]

You make drilling that first hole, blindly, look easy. How did you locate the knockout without being able to see where you are drilling?

[@parkershaw8529]

One question please: When you relocate those two circuits over to the new sub panel, can you just bring the hot wires over, leave the neutrals and grounds inside the main panel? Thanks!

[@Trainman0401]

Great video. Question…Do you know if a 100 amp sub panel can be used with a 60 amp breaker? I only need 60 amps but a 60 amp panel does not have enough slots for me. The 100 amp panels have plenty. Thanks!!

[@glthom1]

Thank you for the video ! Great job

[@KameraShy]

1. One would think that manufacturers would provide plastic covers for the always hot feeder lugs instead of leaving them out in the open. 2. Is 100 amp service enough for all the heavy-draw uses planned? 3. Does code not require that neutral feeds be white wire OR black wire wrapped with white electrical tape? The installer of the original panel did not do that.

[@brianerock]

KameraShy Your 1: Covers (barriers) ARE now required for SERVICE MAIN LUGS 2017 NEC® 408.3(D), 2020, 2023 NEC® 230.62(C) and for FEEDER (WITHOUT OVERCURRENT PROTECTION) MAIN LUGS 2023 NEC® 215.15 but the covers are AVAILABLE from the manufacturers (purchased SEPARATELY); it’s the responsibility of the installer to provide.

[@edwardalvarado8889]

Good job, your the Man, 👍👍

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks!

[@neftalirosado6167]

You no use identification plastic tape white or white paint for the neutral wire ? Is very important. National Electric Code ? Thanks!!

[@Bobherry]

Did anyone notice he didnt mark the subpanel main neutral as a white wire but left it black like its hot

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Yeah would be best practice to mark with some Super 35 white electrical tape, thanks for the feedback!

[@donl1410]

@@EverydayHomeRepairs Not just best practice, it's required to identify it white.

[@KameraShy]

The neutral feed on the main panel was not wrapped/identified as white. I was under the impression, as Don L, that this is required by code. Original electrician blew it. Electrician wrapped with white tape when my main service was upgraded years ago.

[@justinforrest1613]

Why do people watch instructional videos if they are professionals? Who can I criticize today?

[@donl1410]

@@justinforrest1613 I post electrical information for amateur subscribers that are being misinformed or are being provided with incorrect information by other amateur experts that need to make sure of their facts before providing informational videos.

[@dougdavis4439]

Great information, thank you!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

You bet!

[@xincai951]

Do you need to reduce the wire ampacity for having multiple current carrying conductors in the conduit?

[@DonaldZiems]

Yes, but he's OK. The three feeders are treated as 2 (the neutral only passes the imbalanced current), plus two moved 20A circuits, so 6 wires that count for wire fill. Derate to 80% of the ampacity. 12AWG = 20A circuit. 12AWG THHN has an ampacity 25A (assuming the breakers are 75C rated), derated it's still 20A, so no problem. 2AWG has an ampacity of 115A. Derated it's now 92A. There's no such thing as a 92A breaker, so a round up to 100A is allowed.

[@cowboywayne6166]

It's also less than 24" so most adjustments go out the window.

[@brettmullins751]

Great video. I enjoy all your videos

[@cgutowski471]

How did you center the drill with the knockout behind the wall. Don’t think you showed that part. Only thing I could think of doing is drilling with a small bit from inside panel into center of knockout through the wood. Then put the drill bit part of the hole saw into the same from other side.

[@b-hill]

I was wondering the same thing. He doesn't show drilling out the stud for the 1 1/2 pvc.

[@michaelm3662]

Someone may have said this but adding a sub panel does not give you more capacity to add large items like a heat pump. Depending on where you live a heat pump can require over 100 amps by itself. It is always best to consult an electrician. I have seen many do-it-yourselfers almost burn down their house not understanding code and how dangerous electricity really is.

[@Vertigoneardeath]

Hello, friend. So I can have a much better understanding, you took the hot lead from one leg of the main/primary distribution panel 120v side and split it in two for the subpanel, but still keeping the 100amp......correct? However, I did notice you did not use any double O'd line to the subpanel. The NEC 2023 and or municipal code okays this.....am I correct?

[@JaimeSslazar-rk7nm]

In a installation like that one were do you install your inlet box and braker for back up ??

[@TOandMore]

Can you do a video on permit application for this kind of subpanel installation? I'd like to add my own generator connection to subpanel for power outage. Is there subpanel with switching to connect to my own generator? Thank you.

[@johnbabrick]

Very helpful, thank you.

[@Mke3005]

If you were using copper wire for your hots and neutral what size would it be, #2 is for aluminum.

[@randyaivaz3356]

I see Feeder Wires going into the Bottom by By Electricians Skimping Everyway they can by saving the Cost of a Couple feet of Wire. I always have the Lugs at top of Panel. Interlock Kits will Probably still work. I see it Often enough that it Must be OK. Been a Master since '98, Still buy the extra couple feet of Wire so it can reach the top. Others mention white tape on the neutral, 2 wires under one lug. Didn't see anyone else mention what I call Upside Down. Maybe it's just me? Habit? You have Helped Many.

[@pld8993]

Been in the trade for over 40 years and while upside down is legal, it will always look upside down and amateurish to me. It also screws up your circuit numbers, putting odds on the right and #1 at the bottom. Just to save 2' of conductor. I will never let my guys do it that way.

[@highvoltage1979]

@@pld8993 lol😂

[@ionelus111]

Quick question? Why install a separate ground strip? Why not use what’s already available?

[@bklyn2va2dc]

Great video, thanks for posting. Quick question: do you actually touch the lugs when using the multimeter or just close enough without touching? Seems touching it would shock you or are the tips insulated? Thanks

[@jobourne423]

Touch the lugs, but don't be touching any metal part of the multi meter

[@bklyn2va2dc]

@@jobourne423 Thank you. I have been afraid to try it.

[@thomascho3318]

does this update make your total amperage capacity to 300 amp? or having a sub panel is different than upgrading it to 300/320 amp panel? I have one panel rated for 200 amp. I'm hoping to upgrade it to 400 amp (or 320 amp) by adding one additional 200 (or 120) amp panel next to the existing main panel (so two main panels). any feedback is appreciated...

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Nope, you are basically expanding out the number of circuits you have to work with but the amperage through all circuits will still be limited to your main (200 Amp) breaker. You most likely don't actually need a 400 Amp service unless you have a HUGE home and a ton of appliances pulling some serious amperage.

[@JamesJones-ql3kr]

can you use Wagos with aluminum wire? And what are the wire sizes with wagos? I use them alot, really make wiring an outlet neat and clean. In an outlet, I will hot glue a multi-wire wago to the case just to keep the wire connection fixed and out of the way.

[@WireWeHere]

Did the new panel arrive with a factory installed Neutral Bonding Screw? Just a thought for anyone unfamiliar. Sub Panel Neutral Bonding Screw, often a green screw looking out of place, going thru the Neutral, must be removed to prevent a loopy ground problem worth looking up. Nice clean install, either careful planning or plain old good luck got the empty cavity to put your sub panel in.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the Add, that would have been good to point out. Square D includes the screw but not installed as least on these main lug panels. I was confident the cavity was open but not 100%. You know how it goes 🤞

[@JorgePerez-sg9di]

Thank you for your information sr 😊

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

You bet!

[@thornridgefacilitiesassoci6091]

Do you have the neutral and ground bond removed at the subpanel? Noticed you separated the grounds and neutral correctly but didn't see if the neutral / ground screw was present (should be removed).

[@MrNeptunebob]

You were having that level rather close to the 3 lugs that could be fatal. I am always nervous about having my hands near those lugs. Is the ground wire here insulated? Ours is bare and yours looks like a 3 phase panel like in an office.

[@michaelm3662]

It's not a three phase. Square D just has the neutral close. Three phase would have 4 wires.

[@shawn4357]

can I add a 100 amp panel to another 100 amp panel? And do I use a 100 amp breaker?

[@mike7gerald]

In case of contact, you can use cardboard in front of the main feeder cables to provide a barrier. It's good that you're using insulated gloves, but your wrists are bare.

[@Hunter-vb8wo]

Can the EG4 12kPV be installed without a sub panel to run the main panel? Looking to have 5600 watts of solar help out with the power bills and provide power during an outage.

[@intrestingstuffbyspx4804]

hi very informative, ...I have a bushing that got loose, and have two open knockouts that I need to be addressed, may I know how much would it cost, when reaching out on yelp people are quoting 450$. located in Hyaward, CA.