How To Install A Garage Sub Panel

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

#6 THHN Red, Black, and White and #10 Green: geni.us/nxyg Sub Panel: geni.us/6BIfs DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.

[@keithharrington8715]

As an electrical guy, we get to install what the customer wants inside code. I would encourage a homeowner in this situation to consider larger conduit. With all that digging and concrete cutting and all, it was only a 60 Amp panel. With electric cars needing a 50 Amp circuit, upsizing th pipe will allow the 60 Amp wire to be used to pull in a larger wire for the electric car without re-digging. A power up-grade would just need to pull larger wire and swap the panel for a larger one. Also, consider 2 or 3 extra pipes while the trench is open.....maybe a hard-wire server or security cameras or some kind of diner bell/distress warning system (flashing light for high noise areas). Love the work Joel.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Really good advice Keith, Joel and I (Scott) appreciate the feedback 👍

[@victornaja7927]

can he gotten away with 100 amp sub panel instead of 125amp

[@keithharrington8715]

@victornaja7927 there is a load calculation in the National Electrical Code chapter 2 i think section 220 (not by my book). That can be used to calculate the loading expected on a sub panel or to a house. This is the section that expects some loads not to work when others are running (a/c running, no need for heat). The panel installed should be able to handle at least that much load. You can go bigger, not smaller. So, a 100 Amp breaker and 100 amp supply can feed into a 125 panel, but all the supplying breakers should be sized for the wire supplying, including the isolation input breaker in the panel. So, some lights and a car charger, can have less amps than a workshop and car charger. In this video, I think it would be okay if I remember correctly. However, I would encourage you to involve a pro to at least make sure you get the correct stuff for your project. PS. I always recommend bigger conduit and multiple conduits for future upgrades and things like security, internet, and maybe a warning light for trouble in the house. A light can be "heard" over any noise. While your trench is open, you can drop in many pipes and cap them off for future use or..... re-dig later?

[@victornaja7927]

Thank you. I'm a diy to the core. I'm planning to build my garage n as I'm trying to figure out the sub box n cable I'm already preparing to to have pipe fir ethernet cable n separate pipe fir electric

[@keithharrington8715]

@victornaja7927 I often recommend getting a pro involved. You can involve them only at the level where they advise you and allow you to do everything yourself. (I understand very well both the self pride and joy in doing things yourself) They may have solution to problems you do not know you will have.....do you need an external disconnect on the building, type of wires to run, and more. One man called his "barn" an agricultural building for taxes or building money discounts. That title enacts extra electrical requirements and has its own electrical section. Again, while the trench is open, consider a bigger conduit.....(200 amps). This will allow major upgrades no matter the panel load you install today. Extra pipes for cable tv (waiting room), internet for sales, security cameras, dinner bell (flashing light), etc. It is easy to drop in an extra pipe and put string/rope in it today and easily pull in what you want/need tomorrow....minus extra digging. Hope you have a good build.

[@GS-lh2nx]

I was watching this and thought hey you just tied your neutral and grounds together, that's not right. Then you fixed it. Thanks for showing us all of this including your mistakes. We are all human and constantly learning. Great video and collab.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks!

[@kailaharvard]

I thought they tie together in main box anyway🤷🏾🤷🏾🤷🏾

[@kailaharvard]

Oo nevermind, I see your working off of the sub, not the main...🤦🏾🤦🏾🤦🏾

[@rickvug]

It made me feel good to notice this myself based on comments earlier in the video. Accidental confidence builder!

[@mattthomson1689]

Nothing quite like a HOT project!

[@alannaperez6084]

This was probably the most perfectly explained and detailed video I’ve ever watched! It wasn’t overwhelming at any point. Just specific and explained very very well. Great video!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks!, Joel did a great job and has a TON more videos over on his KZbin channel as well www.youtube.com/@ElectricProAcademy

[@Jacoblikesyoutube]

I've been doing a mountain of research for exactly the same project. This is far and away the most informative video I have watch about doing a subpanel job

[@cantlean4440]

I'm an electrician who just watched this video. How did your subpanel install go?

[@victornaja7927]

@@cantlean4440 hi guys may i ask how high was his subpanel at in the new subpanel at the garage from the ground up i did not catch that please

[@OpSic66]

Kudos for citing N.E.C. So many folks on videos just say or show how to do things. Citing N.E.C fully with numbers gives great reference points for others to go do more research.

[@krampus2992]

The very second he said "penetration" I was hooked for the full 28:26. Excellent content!

[@FrederickDunn]

Excellent Job all the way around, I found it very interesting at 15:13 regarding the expansion and contraction of the conduit due to seasonal warming and cooling. Brushing up for some out-building wiring jobs. Your tips are golden! Another pro-tip for some extensive digging and excavating small scale, buy used equipment that runs well, keep it as long as you need it, and then sell it off after the job is complete, It's far cheaper than renting for several weeks. :)

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the feedback. If you want more of Joel (the guy in the video) check out his channel at @ElectricProAcademy

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Over 1,000 videos published 🤯 nice work with the channel!

[@coburninator]

Nice video, believable cost breakdown from an actual electrician is valuable, almost missed it snuck in the end

[@georgef1176]

Joel is by far the best I’ve watched on the tube. Great teacher.

[@avramsnegirev3930]

He is good teacher on the labor part, but regarding code i would recommend an actual code instructor. Some of the stuff that he claims is code isnt actually code.

[@oldscuba]

Just found your channel. Licensed electrician going on 40 years. Nice job !

[@americandreamsicle1]

I'm a subscriber to both of you guys. Retired 25 year commercial electrician. You guys keep me up to date on codes, how-to's and trends.

[@BDBD16]

Whats Joel's channel link?

[@americandreamsicle1]

@@BDBD16 electric pro akademy

[@americandreamsicle1]

Academy

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Joel's Channel = kzbin.info

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the support Roxanne 👍

[@xfactor4205]

Absolutely the best video I found on youtube regarding how to install a sub-panel!!! Thank you!

[@wa8vec]

Very informative. Why no main breaker in the garage? Even if not required, would seem like a priority need.

[@brianzaug6541]

This guys the best! Thanks for teaching me the correct way to install sub panel. Followed your directions and it wen't really well!

[@360ModsandHacks]

This was an extremely helpful video! The host doing all the work and talking is amazing at explaining everything and giving us tips. Overall a 10/10 video and I appreciate the work that went into this for all of us!!!

[@meganw6007]

You totally threw me off, thinking this was gonna be an Electric Pro Academy video, seeing Joel in the thumbnail, then when I clicked it, seeing you with Everyday Home Repairs. Between you two, Stud Pack, Dustin Stelzer's two channels with Electrician U, and a few others, I am so in love with learning all this stuff about electrical!

[@electricaltyler5998]

This was great I was looking for a video to wire 240 to my garage these guys have the panel in the garage already easy work... I am going to have to do some digging since I'm doing that might as well do a subpanel. The price you quoted surprised me

[@jakeupmickey8175]

You did an excellent job step-by-step explaining and especially delivering those NEC Codes more videos, please

[@johnhastings1874]

Joel is a fabulous teacher!

[@3jeepsdeep768]

Thanks for cutting the video. Is a expansion fitting not required where it enters / exits the ground into the building?

[@noelnicholls1894]

Thanks. Should mention that call 811 system for public utility location. Was contemplating a 75 foot buried extension for an RV pad. Gave me a ton to think about. Down here in Central Texas the frost line isn’t an issue. But ground shifting between dry and wet a deal that would force a gravel base to the trench on my run which has a 10 foot drop in the run.

[@stevenmoomey2115]

This was one of the crazy things I ran into, in the Midwest back in the 70’s. The previous owner had to post a bond to my mortgage company, for his wiring to the detached garage. He burned up the UG wire, and just ran wires overhead. I tried to get a Homeowners permit, couldn’t because it wasn’t part of the “Home.” Put the Sub-panel in the Cellar where the Boiler was. Had an Electrician pull the wiring permit to the garage. I did the digging and most of the work. Passed inspection and got the Bond money. In the end it worked out better.

[@marcosmota1094]

Consummate professional...he toned it down and kept it pro. On his channel he's having a ton of fun.

[@eaf27]

Man this is awesome. Thank you for the step by step with simple explanation as to why things are done per code. Helps me understand for sure. Great video.

[@DarrellWoods-d5l]

Thought was good video.. clear .. nice clean job! Seen other comments that said negatives… tend stay on the positive note… keep on my man!! Def learned from it!

[@efthegop8000]

Pro tips from Mr Underground. Don't always use fittings for bends. On the bend by the drainage pipe you could have easily dug a sweeping curve and eliminated 90% of the drag when pulling wire. Same with the 45s approaching the garage. Also, that trench isn't 18" deep :) Also, I think it would be easy enough to "shoot" that wide sidewalk instead of removing and replacing the concrete. Dig the trench at the proper angle and depth (where the drain pipe was). Glue a male adapter and brass spray nozzle on one end of a piece of PVC and a hose adapter on the other. Lay it LEVEL in the trench and start working it through. If it is hard soil, let it sit for 30 seconds if and work it forward. Repeat as necessary. In 10 minutes, your pipe is under the walk. It's messy but quick and cheap. I learned that in the olden days installing irrigation systems. I don't know all the details but I may have chosen to come from the main panel. It's easy enough to make a couple spaces by moving two circuits to the original sub. But, it was probably a mess in there and easier to use the sub. I'm old and retired and came here to bust your balls, but I can't. I'll give you a 10 out of 10 :)

[@idmhead0160]

How would moving existing circuits from the main to the sub be easier? The wires are already cut to length. It looked like it was Romex. Moving a bunch of wires around doesn't sound like fun. I don't know what the point would be.

[@MrFitness94]

Great vid! How do you patch the brick unluckily crumbled for the LB on the side of the house?

[@SirBrass]

I imagine some concrete would do. But I'm not a tradesman. Perhaps a masonry guy would know.

[@IGoProEVERYTHING]

I would clean the chip and brick then gorilla glue it together. No paint matching necessary.

[@Normal1855]

I learned so much from this video. I'm now confident to do this myself.

[@whattheschmidt]

Amazing work. I did the same thing but an easier run in 2019. One thing I would definitely suggest is to run an extra piece of conduit (I did 3/4 and 1.25" for my needs), the extra piece being for Ethernet wires for POE powered cameras and connecting to my big inverter on my main solar array (data tracking, updating). May be great to have a WiFi access point in the garage or cameras or future needs and just keep it empty! Oh, and one safety thing not mentioned - if you get an SDS max hammer drill to do large drilling, be extra careful that it doesn't bind and twist on you - that can break your arm off! Didn't happen to me but I used one for drilling 4-5" hole through 2 cinderblock walls at work and man the thing was crazy powerful. Only power tool that scared me to use a bit, even with being careful.

[@anthonywinters3288]

You have never used a Harbor freight angle grinder before then…🤣… you feel death standing behind you.

[@whattheschmidt]

@@anthonywinters3288 lol I have a Harbor freight one actually, but I paid for the 'good' one, not the $10 one. I use hammer drills a lot but the massive ones are beasts and the twisting can be dangerous.

[@brazyflow2850]

I agree being scared of the bigger hammer drills cause hitting a rebar man it will twist your arm off lol.

[@MukYJ]

@@anthonywinters3288 I have an orange HF grinder that is noisy as hell but absolutely will not die. It’s about 15 years old and has not let me down yet.

[@annafraley5388]

Good work..!!!✅ And good shot at 24:42 of the power IN hookup on this Sub Panel 😎👍👏

[@billmongiello4885]

this is the best video on this subject, the other ones i saw the guys were hem-hawing around and telling their life stories and interjecting non essential info. also i thought you needed to put a ground rod outside the new box in the garage.

[@denjhill]

One of the best explanations for this job that I've seen. Good job.

[@riffdex]

2:15 doubles as a pickup line for the ladies

[@Raindancermusic]

Classic 🤣

[@dormbasedbusiness]

You read my mind. 4:36 for part 2

[@VitalVampyr]

I actually did a similar project myself a few weeks ago, good to see we almost did it completely properly. I opted to lay UF cable underground because that turned out to be a fair bit cheaper than getting separate conductors and conduit, and it skips the hassle of pulling cable all that distance.

[@joelwalsman773]

Righto! There’s a new product I love called Trable Cable with a direct burial, sunlight, damage resistant and joist pull rating. Super stuff!

[@dwightcarlson7136]

In Canada we are fortunate to be able to use Tech Cable for underground which eliminates the conduit and the need to pull wires thru conduits.

[@Scotty_in_Ohio]

Great video! So I was watching when the sub panel in the house was being wired and I thought to myself "I thought that since this was a sub panel grounds and neutrals were supposed to be separate" and sure enough he called it out as a mistake - AWESOME! What a great way to reinforce that concept (if he didn't actually do it by mistake).

[@michaelking42]

I just did the same thing.

[@AM1015-]

Joel, that cut you made of the conduit stub out from the house was angled with the reciprocating saw, doesnt allow for full seating of the pipe when glued into the LB conduit body and as you said the weakest point in the connections, but thank you again for sharing the install of this job!!

[@lawman5511]

Joel, in Arizona we don’t license electricians, only electrical contractors. So, if a master electrician were to move here from say Indiana, and want to pull wire on his own, he would first have to get a contractors license, post a bond, get a business license before doing any work that required a permit or cost more than $1500. The local junior college runs a two year certificate program but after graduation, you’d still have to work op for a contractor before going out on your own.

[@joelgechter5637]

Great video. Well explained and helped me out enormously

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

That is what we are here for, happy to help 👍

[@crunchtime69]

Really good step-by-step. Noticed two grounds at the sub-panel, one (green wire) obviously comes from the main along with the two hots and neutral. I'm assuming the bare copper ground wire came from a separate ground rod outside of the second structure. Can someone verify please?

[@AGhostInTheMachine]

@26:10 he states the main lugs in the existing sub panel are energized, which is surprising because you'd think they were fed from the existing main panel at a breaker that could be switched off

[@bnasty267]

Great video. My only question would be how you got around 225.31-.33 where this structure would require a means of disconnect for the subpanel? Usually, you'd use a backfed 60A DP breaker or a panel with a main breaker (any rating >60A) to serve as the disconnect, not a lug panel. Is there an outside disconnect (required in some areas) we didn't see?

[@joelwalsman773]

Thank you! The requirements of 225.31-.33 aren't in effect in our jurisdiction so I can't say that they're even on my radar. Really good NEC call out and thank you for that! Please consider jumping over to EPRO and contributing your insights to our conversations. Good work!

[@donl1410]

Hard to believe 225.31 isn't enforced. It has been in the NEC for years.

[@bobniles1928]

Needs a main disconnect in the garage sub or less than 6 handle throws. If NEC 2020 the 6 throw rule is voided.

[@deanweingarth9586]

Heres a question for you. My garage is a metal building kit. The building dept had me tie a ground to the rebar in the foundation. What are the connection points for that ground along with the 2 ground rods? Does the foundation ground tie to the ground rods then the ground rods to the panel ? Or the foundation ground to the panel ground and the two ground rods to the panel ground as well. Then I'll also have the ground from the main house panel to the sub panel as well !? OR. does the foundation ground tie to the metal garage frame and continue on to the sub panel ?

[@thomasgersitz338]

you provided me with information that i had forgotten. very well done.

[@mikeerstad3705]

Great Video......But, I missed the line that was used to pull the 4 conductors to the garage through the conduit.....when was that done? Thanks Much!

[@dougmorissette459]

Great video full of information. My question is how do you compensate for drainage around the foundation of the house? On my house the drainage at the back of the house where I have to run the conduit is at the 24 inch depth.

[@meganw6007]

Regarding the ~3:20 part about the cover on the panel, @Joel/@Electric Pro Academy, would there be any problems with adding a bit of a ledge/support as like just a flat board underneath and along the bottom of the panel's cover, onto the nailer board (if one's house has it), just to make the removal of the panel cover that much less straining and dangerous?

[@garfieldnate]

Would like to have seen how you buried your ground rods. You needed two, so how did you route them?

[@KameraShy]

I was wondering about that also.

[@IGoProEVERYTHING]

He did show it, in a 2 second time lapse. He has shown it in other videos.

[@MrGrundle]

Excellent video and details. Thx. What about the grounding to ground rods at the garage?

[@gabeis01]

dude 6:50 that machine was impressive. it was like the brick was butter. I know it was sped up but still.

[@TomKaren94]

This is the best explanation of this project I've seen. But, you didn't demonstrate or explain the connecting of the ground rod. I assume that's what you're connecting at 24:20.

[@mig_0929]

I like how you explain the codes.

[@ericfraser7543]

12:35 you don't need an expansion joint to prevent the frost from heaving you conduit where it enters the ground?

[@joelwalsman773]

Now that's an interesting thought! I really like it as a measure to prevent damage. Do you think that because it's typically 2-4 feet it's worth the expense of an expansion joint or would it be a prudent business measure to relegate expansion joints to longer runs? What's your current practice?

[@ericfraser7543]

@@joelwalsman773 Its code in my area, my underground service required an expansion joint where it goes into the hose, though at the pole it was not needed. I think it is also related to earthquakes prone areas too. He also explained how the PVC expands in the sun it probably would help there too. Perhaps it is only required at the service entrance and not for sub-panel. I would have installed one on the house and garage there is a lot of mass in both those foundations and he only went 18" into the ground.

[@joelwalsman773]

@@ericfraser7543 Nice! The expansion joints are not direct burial rated. -Joel, the guy in the video

[@ericfraser7543]

@@joelwalsman773 Oh well then you would know if they were needed in your application... Yes you would not bury an expansion joint... I am not an electrician, my inspector only made me put an extra clamp to secure it to the building.

[@dohjryt]

Love your step by step explanation style! You do good work! I’ve done a lot of electrical projects over many years, electrical engineer, Army trained electrician, many DIY projects. One question about your cable pull step: why deal with the struggle of the heavy pull? You could simply run the cable through each 10’ section of conduit and then lay it in the trench with no pulling? Your thoughts? Thanks! Dan

[@golftor]

Conduit must be installed as a complete system before pulling wires. (at least according to Canadian Electrical code)

[@michaelking42]

It is definitely an option to do it this way in Australia. Run it through each length first then glue it.

[@andrewc6385]

Nice! I hired an electrician but got stuck diggin my trench with a pick and shovel to save a few bucks.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Sure the electrician was happy 😂 I do the same thing on some projects to save a few bucks #sweatequity

[@anonymousperson4363]

Best video I have seen on this topic.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks!

[@DanielinLaTuna]

Hey there Scott, first, thanks for sharing this video. Now, my question. In the video where you put a subpanel near (next to) the main, you run the subpanel supply CB at the main panel. Yet in this case I see the subpanel main breaker is located in the subpanel, not the main panel. What gives? Thanks in advance. Daniel

[@idmhead0160]

I'm glad he caught the error with the neutral going on the ground bus at the end. I was going to be confused otherwise.

[@kellymcentire4834]

I did not see what you used to connect to the your electrical cable before you pulled it through (I watched twice). Did you have an electrical snake or just some bare wire you purchased? When and how did you push it through?

[@KB3M]

Great work! A few questions: I see you used THHN through out so cable buried in a conduit is not considered wet? Why pull after the conduit is buried wouldn't running cable through with the conduit in pieces be easier? Is it to avoid getting glue on the wire? Does the same hold true for Ridged Metal Conduit? So few videos showing DIY RMC... is it that much harder to thread and bend?

[@pld8993]

THHN is cross listed as THWN so it's allowed in wet locations. NEC requires that the conduit system be complete before installing the conductors.

[@ottoroth9377]

I usually remove the two middle screws last on panels installed higher up. Now about separation of grounds and neutrals....what difference does it make when the neutral and ground bus bars are bonded to the panel...which electrical inspectors look for! Another observation is why ground the sub panel when your sub panel is bonded to the main panel? I realize this extra bit of protection is needed on certain applications...but I don't see the grounding issue! I believe the NEC clearly states if a grounding is used, it must be solid #6 copper!

[@DM-pr5zu]

Just wondering; when you checked the subpanel and had voltage between hot to ground, I found that in my detached garage. I didnt know if that was correct or a wiring problem. Are the outlets downstream suppose to also be with voltage between hot to ground? You are good as an instructor! Glad I found you channel.

[@javierargumedo3]

amazing video! would you tell what gage did you use for two hot wires, ground and neutral wire? else where did you buy the sub panel?

[@morgan79347]

Awesome video I'm doing something similar & love to find videos that support my project. Fortunately I only need a trench less than 30 ft every thing else is inside. Yes it will be in PVC inside & out.

[@meganw6007]

(~20:30) Although considerably more laborious, would it be possible and allowable to just go conduit by conduit, and put the wire through the sweep, then glue and attach the next length of conduit, pull to the next point, glue and attach the next bend/elbow, pull the next stretch of wire, etc., until finally making it to that 360° completion point? Or is there a reason that one HAS to glue all the conduit together first, THEN push/pull the wire run?

[@cantlean4440]

I see what you are saying but this idea is never done for many reasons. Now if you were using a different material like Smurf tube people will pull the wire in before making bends because Smurf tube is so hard to get wires through. Trust me, feel free to lay the conduit where you want it and then fish the wires through. It is the only way to go. •keep bends as few as possible no more than 365° •if you have more than 365° of bend, add a pull point such as a junction box. •follow the correct depth to bury. I believe this is 300.5 of the NEC. •add expansion pieces as called for for expansion and contraction. •Secure and strap as called for for the material you are using.

[@brooklineknightsbball7302]

Awsome video! One of the best I've seen. You gave so much great information.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks, Joel is a BEAST 💪

[@DaWord2011]

Had to pull SEU for my dad from our panel to his new workshop about 200ft away. Even lubed up it still took two grown men pulling in unison to get it to go.

[@Eastbaypisces]

What size gauge wire?

[@DaWord2011]

@@Eastbaypisces 2/0 Copper

[@Eastbaypisces]

@@DaWord2011 what size conduit u use?

[@DaWord2011]

@@Eastbaypisces 2"

[@pepeluke5911]

Hi there my breaker is Jose nice to see you, a question is there a way to connect a sub panel to a main fuse panel?

[@gelmera]

Your videos are really great. I was wondering can you do a video on how to wire a 12/3 wire to a junction box to two separate lines off of a 2 pole 20amp ?

[@Doug-gp2qw]

You could move a couple of 120v circuits to the sub-panel and then run the garage sub-panel from the main.

[@2mustange]

Any videos on exterior sub panels? I guess more or less best practices on the install as i know code will change on location.

[@FernandoGomez-rs2pd]

Great video I was wondering can I use a 60 amp breaker sub panel instead of lug panel

[@pld8993]

yes

[@andrewbrindescu6666]

Do have to call before you dig the trench? Natural gas,city water supplier? Also can be hang wire above ground. In Canada you have to call before you dig.

[@kingsora5377]

Yes you should. Utilities companies highly recommend it.

[@bnasty267]

In most areas, you can call 811, or you can dig around for an online website. That will cover everything. It's free for homeowners, and the utilities have a timeline to mark their stuff (usually 2 weeks.) If you hit something that isn't marked, it's on the utility. If you don't call and hit something, it's on you. Pretty dumb not to use the free service.

[@joelwalsman773]

@@bnasty267 Agreed! It's state law here and probably everywhere! The risk is bankruptcy if you don't. The stakes really can be that high.

[@UnlikelyToRemember]

@@joelwalsman773 Can be worse than bankruptcy! My neighbor hit a gas line digging. Just luck he didn't kill himself.

[@joelwalsman773]

@@UnlikelyToRemember True that!

[@PolaCaKe890]

oh thats sick, you both are my favorite

[@paultech9385]

Super thoughtful video. You can use a rod push system to avoid cutting the drive. Cable pulling lube is essential for making pulls easier. Step drill, will be getting one now!

[@thezfunk]

But the lube is so nasty and gets all over everything.

[@Power5]

This was an amazing walkthrough of the process. But how did you get your tiny pull wire through the 70 feet of conduit to attach to your conductors for that pull?

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Your fish tape should easily run through the conduit to hook up to the THHN. This definitely can be a little more difficult as the number of 90’s increase in your conduit.

[@maxeman514]

​@@EverydayHomeRepairs I haven't done this myself, but I would imagine you could also attach your lead to something magnetic, and use a strong magnet from outside the conduit to help "pull" it along in case pushing isn't working or it gets stuck in a corner. Just the lead though, no way it's going to get your THHN through.

[@AGhostInTheMachine]

use a light string and pull it thru with a vacuum cleaner, then pull the pull rope or whatever thru with the string

[@panama-sx2oh]

I'm a electrician here in nyc I see you used pvc why not use one inch emt. I'm just curious

[@Wbjpen]

Use white electrical tape for pulls as it leaves absolutely no residue after coming off. You can even write on it with a sharpie.

[@kennethmc2601]

Local rental stores are absolutely the way to go. We rented a stump grinder from home depot and it was missing 1 of 3 cutting teeth. Took it back and every one they had was missing at least one tooth. Went to our local rental store and the guy rented us this absolute beast of a stump grinder on tracks and a hydraulic cutting head. It even came with its own trailer, and it maybe cost $10 more. What started out as us removing one stump, turned into 15+ trees because that first stump took us 10 minutes and we wanted to get our money's worth.

[@marsshaw799]

How do we water and air tight the holes those we drill in the wall? Caulk, spray foam or any other material ?

[@erwinbordallo]

This new garage subpanel is really a subpanel to the subpanel in the house correct? So both subpanels do NOT get bonded together, correct? And did you say that (2) grounding electrodes were required? Is that one at the Main panel and one out by the newest subpanel? Thank you! Excellent video BTW.

[@oobaka1967]

Always get a kick out of watching how easy you guys have it when digging a trench. I live in a Canadian province nicknamed The Rock and all you need to do is try to dig and you'll quickly find out why it has that nickname. You couldn't go 2 feet without finding boulders the size of your head or larger. That trencher would have a nervous breakdown.

[@bjornjoseph]

Won't lie... I enjoyed this video

[@josephgraham1065]

So I installed a Spa Disconnect box using 6 GA THHN for the Hots and Neutral and 8 Ga for the Ground. The box is rated for 50 Amps. Are you saying I could change out feed breaker and GFCI breaker to 60 amps using the same 6 GA wires?

[@SavingCommunitiesDS]

Does the LB have to be vertical into the ground? It occurs to me that going down at a 45° angle would reduce the first bend in the underground conduit. By doing that at both ends, one can reduce the total bending by 90°, conforming to code in some cases and making it easier to fish the wire through the conduit.

[@pld8993]

By going down at a 45 you violate 300.5, burial depth.

[@patrickfrost4338]

ok i was wondering near the 27 min mark if you were gonna catch your neutral on your ground bar.

[@MrKen59]

When you put a sub panel in a basement, obviously there are no “ground rods”. Does it need additional grounding beyond the feed conductor?

[@ladesignllchomeimprovement1576]

Is this a 50 or 100 amp sub panel ? I am working on a detached garage and this will be my goal to install. Thanks

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

I used a 60 Amp breaker feeding this sub panel amzn.to/3NhqGI8

[@davidmerkrebs9967]

why did you not need a main breaker shut off on sub panel in separate garage building

[@idmhead0160]

Wondering the same thing. And if it is required, how do you add it?

[@en2oh]

Great video! thanks for sharing. I have a somewhat different situation. I have my main, basement panel as a sub panel from a newly installed 200amp upgrade in the garage. The garage is attached to the house with wires running under a concrete slab. Is it possible to use the existing 1.5" conduit running under the slab, for a 30 amp power backup from an inverter located in the garage? Sadly, the primary 200amp panel has about 3 circuits on it while the original basement panel is fully loaded. any suggestions, folks?

[@cantlean4440]

What is the inverter for? Solar panels or electric car charger?

[@Femur15]

I like that shirt that Mr. Scott is wearing.

[@grantnelson39]

Does the wire coming through the conduit into the sub panel need to be clamped?

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

No, The conductors will just come straight out of the conduit past the bushing.

[@KevinCoop1]

The install was excellent! The electrician has been doing commercial work! Residential is “120/240 volt Single Phase 3 wire system”. Single phase, not 2 phase. There is no phase A and phase B. It is Line 1 and Line 2. Respectfully, Kevin

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the feedback Kevin.

[@PaulHVAC1]

Great video! Just a question. Perhaps I missed something, But in the new sub-Panel in the garage, your ground bus bar is fastened to the panel chassis- correct? So you have the green ground wire connected to the ground bus bar, why is there a bare ground wire connected to the bus bar and then to the metal chassis? Isn't the ground bus bar screwed to the panel chassis already?

[@Makitafan]

The bare wire runs outside and attaches to the ground rod he installed. The green wire coming from the house keeps all electrical equipment at the same potential.

[@Bluesman57]

Is it an optical illusion, or is the conduit that is running along side the garage not 18" deep?

[@TheCaperfish]

brah should have a expansion fitting below them LB.s , frost will make that conduit a banana after a few winters

[@mr.g937]

Doesn't being above the frost line line generally imply the ground is warmer below during the winter, and cooler during the summer....

[@Jm4steam]

Good video. Good you mentioned checking for utilities. In my state,Dig Safe (covers 5 states in NE) will check for all utilities and other cables (ISP cable services) that are underground. I installed an independent ground for my solar panel/turbine set up, Dig Safe was very thorough.