How To Install a Trunk Mounted Battery

[@petemiller5813]

What I do when I cut off a bolt or threaded rod, I always put a nut on the thread, then cut the bolt or rod and round the end. So when you remove the nut it removes any burr that still might be left and makes putting the nut back on much easier. Old toolmaker trick.

[@peatergriffin]

I know it's not the done thing but if you angle it down when grinding it keeps the thread clean

[@valkoinenpupu]

Looking just at the nuts in the rods and the threading and imagining all the work you have to do in between the shots, the actual shots, the editing and planning makes me appreciate your hard work a little bit more. Great job Eric, love the editing!

[@calebcrossman5084]

Appreciate you actually explaining why you're doing what, instead of leaving the viewers guessing.

[@anomamos9095]

You do like to do things the hard way, don't you? If you put the inside nut on from the bottom and spun it up two inches you could then have put them through the holes and have them sit there holding them selves up while you went underneath and put the bottom nuts on as far as they needed to go and then not spent an hour spinning the inside nuts down as they would already be most of the way there. But if you had a tape measure you could have measured the height of the box added the thickness of two nuts and washers and cut the threaded bar to length. Also locking two nuts together on the rod would allow you to cut it without damaging the thread and if ever you cut a threaded bar or bolt you put a nut on first to clean the waste out of the thread, it's easier to undo a nut the clean a thread than try and run a die down it. Just a couple of tips or ideas the edge of that box should have been on the inside of the fold it will be safer without a sharp edge on the corner. Putting some silicon sealer down on the trunk bed before fitting the box will keep moisture from building up under it and rusting out your trunk. Rather than feeding the cable and vent tube through the rubber filler boot I would have put a small hole through the boot for the cable and tube separately and put some silicon around the holes to strengthen them.

[@UberAlphaSirus]

Anom Amos yup, all wrong in this one.

[@cypeman8037]

I was thinking exactly what Anon Amos has written about the threaded bar, loctite and silicone sealant also required.

[@markquigley1890]

Anom Amos this is for comments, not letters.

[@JackS425]

I really doubt that any water will get up behind the take, if he ever drives this in the rain, judging by those tires its a dry weather only type of car.

[@anomamos9095]

Jack S . There is moisture in the air even on a dry day. And because a battery is a big lump of heavy metals and water it will get cold and pull the moisture out of the air similar to a cold bottle you take out of a fridge. So it doesn't matter if it's never taken out in the rain.

[@stephenlounds1385]

when cutting through threaded rods I always use a sacrificial nut to run overbthe cut cleaned end. This has saved me on many occasions where a tiny shard of metalnremains in the thread. I was taught this by an old engineer many moons ago.

[@TheEgg185]

lol. Everyone has a suggestion for eric. I hope he doesn't get upset and stop making these videos. This was one of my favorites. I like "creative" fabricating work like this. Your videos are greatly appreciated.

[@krzysiekv12]

Id put nyloc or loctite the bottom ones

[@UberAlphaSirus]

krzysiekv12 id weld em on. bugger droping the tank because the bottom nut spins of changing the battery

[@krzysiekv12]

Aint got a welder yet

[@MyLonewolf25]

krzysiekv12 jb weld and or adhesive

[@LailaKumaki]

Battery hold-downs corrode. They're rarely welded because then you're screwed (ha) when you need to replace them

[@This0is0pointless]

jeez people he could just double nut it or thread lock...

[@jared5301]

I love etcg videos have watched every Friday for the last couple years also etcg1 fan

[@rustybrowneye]

Jared Mccoy me too, high 5

[@ericthecarguy]

Me 3. ;)

[@rustybrowneye]

StevexNYCperformance #white peoples videos matter

[@Kfjsb668]

no im the number one fam.

[@spaomalley]

No doubt this mans blinker fluid is never a drop below full.

[@unknown-fy4ub]

Been following along on the car one tip for doing chassis grounds use riv-nuts. I use the splined ones makes a super tight ground connection and you don't have to find a access hole for a wrench on the back side. Cheers keep up the good work and content 👍

[@BiscuitTinOrchestra]

few things id do different: 1> use a STAINLESS bolt for the earth connection and weld it in for security , will be corrosion resitant and lower electrical resistance (especially over time) 2> put DOMED nuts on the top cover of the box, that way you wont catch (and cause damage to) your hands, luggage or hostages on the end of the threaded rods. 3> install foam under the battery box, especially as it wasnt 100% level, will stop any rattles

[@togst]

Excellent video as always! Should write a quote on that battery box; "I'll never let go, Jack. I promise."

[@ericthecarguy]

You're just the right kind of weird. I like it.

[@hbroscoe939]

Great Video Eric. The Fairmont and Vigor are my favourites in your fleet. Next I would be tempted to disguise the battery box as a crate of beer. :)

[@ericthecarguy]

They're my favorites too. Although I really love my truck. I like your thoughts on altering it's appearance.

[@hbroscoe939]

EricTheCarGuy Thank You :) the finish looks good anyway but I figured a disguise would go with the sleeper look.

[@frankhoward7645]

Eric. Great video. I do have a few suggestions if you don't mind. First, I would have cut the box down to size. It appears to be a few inches too tall. Second, I would have attached the ground wire directly to the top of one of the threaded rods where they attach to the hold down bracket. If unsatisfied with the contact between the bottom of the rod and the body, I would have installed a short jumper to the ground bolt you attatched to the "frame". When I installed my hitch on my 1981 Fairmont Futura Wagon (which succeeded my 1979 Fairmont wagon), the kit came with bolts that dropped down from existing holes in the frame, near the one you were dealing with. In order to insert them into the box section, the kit came with a special wire that was wrapped around the threads of the bolt with about 10" of an extra wire "tail". The instructions were for me to feed the wire tail through a large hole into the frame (possibly the one you used) to a smaller hole not too far from the larger hole. When the tail passed over the smaller hole, I grabbed it with a pair of needle nose pliers and was then able to pull the bolt (threads first) through the large hole into the frame and then back out through the smaller hole that the head would not fit through. I then unwound the wire from the threads and was able to attach the hitch to the frame via that bolt that was now hanging down through the smaller hole. I kept this special wire tool for years until I realized that I could make one just by wrapping any stiff wire along the threads of any bolt. Kind of an easy way to get a bolt into a box section. Finally, whenever I cut a threaded rod, I put a nut on it right before the cut so that when I've completed the cut and cleaned up the end, I can back the nut off the rod over the new cut and it will fix any imperfections making the next nut easy to install. Looking forward to your next video. Please, keep up the great work!

[@jackass123455]

your going to hate that batery stay with that mile of all thread. if i may make a suggestion. if you notch/ elingate the holes in the ends of the stay so that they are open ended. you won have to back the nuts all the way off to get the stay out. id also suggesy poking holes in the rubber grommet for the cable and vent tube to run through rather than trough the same hole as the filler neck to avoid possible vibration rubbing and pinching. and finally it might be worth grabbing some rubber u channel the line the top and bottom of the side of the box to maybe seal the box and insulate from possible vibration noise. these are just things i would consider for such an install with the components shown. as always love the work and apreciate the free entertainment

[@WheatSn4ckBread]

Just a tip Eric, if I have to run a nut down a lot of all thread. I'll put 2 nuts on the top of the all thread as jam nuts. Then hold the nut I'm running down with a wrench and put an air/electric wrench on jam nuts. It also saves me a ton of time if I have to do something similar with a nylock.

[@waynep343]

eric.. i know its already installed. but i usually pull the positive battery cable thru heater hose so it has a much thicker insulation around it. i also use one of the various remote shut off switches with the moroso push rod kit.. but i use an additional morse /pto type cable to give me remote control from the front seat area.

[@mytten]

Are you not gonna take some paint on thoose holes you drilled? :)

[@GG90.]

If it were me I'd put a dab of cavity wax on the holes for the threaded rods (as paint would be chipped off as soon as you install the rod) and smear the ground area on the frame too. Great video Eric! Thanks!

[@ajbrown7245]

Maybe some rubber feet on the button of the batter tray? And rubber washers on the rods between the trunk floor?

[@6pistons]

hey Eric, adding a dab of dielectric grease to the ground bolt is added protection against corrosion.

[@TomoHawKzZ]

When you put the threaded bar in the first time I thought you'd put a nut on about an inch or two on one side then slide that through the hole... but you did it the long way. Then did it AGAIN. You're more patient than me for sure lmao

[@MattsMotorz]

I think it also would have worked to tap threads in the undercarriage support. That way you can simply thread a bolt through the negative battery cable into the body and you're done. no messing around with nuts, bolts and washers (which I am sure will also be perfectly fine). Could have also welded a nut on the body. Great video!!

[@best1yet]

I haven't watched you in a while. Its good to see you working on a lift.

[@skylinefever]

One neat thing about having the battery somewhere other than other the hood is that the battery lasts longer. This becomes worse if everything under the hood is cramped and extra hot. If Nissan used this system on the 1985-1988 Maxima, it might have solved 20%-25% of the problems those cars were prone to. I used to Have a Saturn ION which already used a battery in the trunk. The battery lasted 5 years, and load tests said it was marginal. When batteries are under the hood in Florida, having a marginal or dead battery after 2 1/2 years is common. Some Mazda Miatas got 9 years or more from the trunk-mounted battery.

[@markadoglet]

Eric this is such good idea I'm going to do this with my 1995 Rover 820si I've had the car 14 years this year 1917 didn't know this modification could be done, I have wanted to put a bigger battery in, and I can't fit a bigger one under the bonnet I would also like to fit a deep cycle leisure battery on the opposite side in the boot, for amateur radio use, the bigger the better, and fit a split charger unit, and if you are thinking an old car like mine isn't worth spending money on its not, but it's worth it to me and that's all that matters, as I will never get rid of it, I'm recording this video and putting it on a memory stick for future reference...

[@strt6ranger938]

that washer sliding down the rod made me happy

[@lexi-conby]

cool kit. to reduce metal chatter and less work, no need to cut the trunk rug. just drill through carpet and install box. the rug is harmless and between box and trunk. i would have chosen that option you mentioned. nicer finish in my opinion instead of seeing the cut rug. also, im not a fan of exposing ground to external elements but i understand your goal of a chassis ground

[@mrkarkasian]

Tnx Eric, I hope you have not forgot to install kill switch! Very crucial.

[@CarstenLorenzen12V]

Doublesided tape what about a fuse on the positive cable, close to the terminal?

[@mrkarkasian]

Sure, also very important. I think it is better to upgrade the engine fuse box but i'm sure Eric has a plan for it.

[@Seegalgalguntijak]

Eric, why didn't you use nylon lock nuts or at least also lock washers for the bottom nuts that hold down the bolts which hold the whole battery box right above the tank? Don't you think vibrations may also losen these fasteners while you're driving? If so, the battery box may become dislodged and jump all over your trunk, and I'm sure that's not what you want, right? :)

[@themechanic6117]

relocated battery always looks cool. why not try to protect the drill holes from corrosion? why no thread locker on the nuts under the car? all those washers look ugly, should of used a different bolt with no shoulder on it... besides getting that off my chest.good work lol

[@SgtSabotage]

Nice yellow-top Eric! I have one that has lasted over ten years. Expensive but very cost effective.

[@donaldmckinnon7467]

Eric.I burned up two radiator fans because I used the frame for the ground.I had to run a ground cable to the fan from the trunk to solve this problem.The frame is not a good conductor of electricity.

[@ericthecarguy]

Did you clean the connection to bare metal like I did?

[@donaldmckinnon7467]

Yes.The company I bought the fan from says the most often reason for a fan burning out is the frame being used as a ground.I ran #4 welding wire to the fan and have had no problems since.The directions that came with the fan states that a ground wire must be run from the battery to the fan.My car is a 47 Ford coupe with a 454 Chev motor.The battery is under the package tray in the trunk.

[@ericthecarguy]

Yea, fans, or any high amp circuit for that matter, needs a good ground. I'll be sure to check things out when I do an install. Thanks for the comments and your input.

[@sgriggstn]

When you run the nuts up and down the threaded rod, put a fiber brush in your cordless drill and lightly press the brush against the nut to run it lickity-split.

[@MechanicalMikesRoadsideRepair]

Sure you could've done things a lot better or differently but this works. your videos especially this one for some reason are so satisfying to watch. plus i noticed how you would cut the video of doing one thing out and using it for another video. like removing the gas tank. 1.more detailed videos 2. more efficient 3.more videos 4.maaaybe more money.

[@jamesburba1995]

A pair of 'good' scissors might just cut the carpet and pad a little better than a pair of tin snips ! LOL

[@olechuga2]

Sir, a great install. I would've used more lock-washer, like everywhere a nut had to be used. I especially liked how you created the "ground connection", underneath the rail, on the vehicle's rear-end. Great, and very informative, video. Thank you Sir.

[@ElecTrackProjects]

why aren't there rubber washers for the threaded rod portion that go thru your trunk floor? I'd be concerned that water could come through if the nuts loosened

[@rogerramjet5092]

I'm sure you already thought of this but I would replace the top lid retaining nuts with wing nuts. For obvious reasons.

[@dmayse1000]

if I'm not mistaken, that optima battery is a sealed AGM battery. u don't have to vent those, and u can mount them on they're side or even upside down if need be. that being said, if u use a regular car battery, make sure it's vented to the outside... the fumes they let off can kill u

[@patw52pb1]

An Optima, AGM or any other sealed all position VRLA battery are vented, do outgas and do require a vent or a ventilated environment, particularly if enclosed in a battery box. The outgassing is usually hydrogen gas which can become a fire/explosion hazard if allowed to accumulate. The battery box in the kit Eric installed in the video has a vent and the vent tube is routed to discharge outside of the vehicle envelope.

[@ericthecarguy]

That's true, but the kit came with a vent so I used it. Thanks for the comment.

[@AttilaTheHun333333]

That whole rear axle looks so sick, with all the new shiny parts! I always feel, that it's such a shame that all those shiny beautiful parts are hidden. Cars need something like sidewindows on pc cases imo. 😃

[@ericthecarguy]

Not done yet. In later episodes I completely redo the entire rear suspension. The new set up is killer.

[@GEARMOAUTO]

Awsome video as usual. Thanks again. I didnt know they had kits to move the battery to the back.

[@mobiousenigma]

well eric ..i cant say your dooing it wrong ..and you did say it would be hours to run the nuts down the rods... my question is why would nt you run the nuts and washers up from the bottom then drop the rods into the box and put the other lower nuts on.. isnt hindsight a wonderful gift lol thanks for the videos and look forward to many more

[@samwisegamgie8163]

+EricTheCarGuy when cutting down the threaded rods or bolts, one thing found is before cutting them, if you install a nut before the cut mark after you make the cut you can run the nut off and it will clean the bur off for you

[@amauto5708]

That washer made my day

[@happyascanbee4265]

This is sweet! Thanks for Sharing! I will be moving my battery to the Trunk of my second gen camaro.

[@crxvtec92]

HF has a nice set of cushion clamps that you can use to hold the wires.

[@gebhardt2]

Bravo! Yellow top. Not cheap but they do last.

[@caddyguy5369]

Is it the best idea to put a vent that could potentially expel corrosive gasses, right next to the filler neck? Just asking, Love the channel.

[@ericthecarguy]

I'm not concerned. I'll likely be running a fuel cell.

[@caddyguy5369]

+EricTheCarGuy Ahh. With an optima I don't think it would be much issue anyway. If someone used a conventional battery it may be a bigger concern though.

[@theoneandonlyshanks]

Those battery cable ends are junk, but you can put a big ring connector on the cable and bolt it to the clamp. That works well. I agree with putting big wing nuts on the lid. Id also have a battery blanket if I lived out east still.

[@niran40]

Electric cables running close to fuel lines could be dangerous right?

[@Calendyr]

Eric, I think you should put some kind of rust protection on that frame/ground area. You just exposed the frame and drilled through it. If it rusts it will cause issues.Also that box is bare metal. Won't the battery fumes cause it to corrode over time?Maybe it's the OCD in me but as a detailer Rust is always a major concern to me, maybe I am just being paranoid :)Great video btw!

[@andyrampadarat3159]

6:31 // now free and clear to drill some holes in the trunk 6:42 // two nuts to go underneath 603: // now we start with the small hole and work my way up 😂😂😂

[@abdulelahbinserya1467]

eric do you really leave that tube close to gas tank, maybe he fume the go in side the box and have explode

[@nazhif1]

My car's battery is in the back for V6 models engines but for the 2.0 its in front. The space where the battery would've been is just another storage space in the boot.

[@rogermurph101]

You've probably had it with all the know-it-alls, but here's a couple more suggestions. I would cut a couple small holes in the neck filler boot to route the vent tube and neg cable through. I would paint over your neg ground and the bare metal you uncovered. Next time you have to cut some threaded rod, run two nuts onto the rod so that they are as far apart as your vise jaws are wide. That way you can tighten the jaws onto the nuts tightly without damaging the threads, and after the cut you can run one nut over the cut end to clean up the threads.

[@bobjohnson8206]

Maybe you should have looked at how the older Mercedes battery box looked and used one of those. Grant you they are not chrome and are not pretty but very functional, and won't rust either. I would have gotten one of those out of a salvage yard and tried to fit that in. Just a suggestion, kind of late now.

[@MRomisher]

Hey Eric, Why did you not use lock washers or nylon lock nuts to secure the battery box and battery? In my experience between Murphy's Law and vehicle vibration, those things could come loose over time with standard nuts and flat washers.

[@rhkips]

That's a gorgeous battery box! Really clean install, too! Awesome stuff, Eric. :D

[@jordanp6420]

Hey Eric, thanks for the video. Do I need to use a circuit breaker for the long positive wire going through the car? Do you use a distribution block at the front of the car so you don't have to run accessories and new things you put into the car that require power, all the way to the back where the battery is?

[@yambo59]

Tack welding the stud in this case seems like a good idea to make a totally reliable connection with the body, even if it rusts. You might also check out some of the very nice gold plated heavy duty hi end aftermarket auto sound battery connection hardware, I greatly improved my GM small bolt battery connection with some auto sound connection pieces. Nice installation.

[@G_Rapids]

Instead of the "Million thread march", just put a nut on one side, about 2 inches up, then flip the threaded rod and insert, that will hold it in the hold for you to install the bottom nut.

[@Kickinpony66]

You should get a "Do not open. Contains Human Organs" sign, for the battery box! :)

[@bdarney724]

Eric,be careful leaving the carpet in the truk,many trunks have rotted out because water being trapped between the carpet or mat an the floor.

[@HeidiFegles]

Mine is weight transfer and wire tuck. Plus needed room for the some extra turbo activities

[@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP]

*Wingnut* the top with those washers. Channel battery brace _is_ upside down, 2 contacts are more secure than one.

[@jaxv94]

He already knows it's upside down Mom.

[@Longday709]

Surprised to see you cut what we in the electrical trade call all-thread without a nut above the cut line, backing the nut over the cut will rethread the cut area. If that is a Johnson Controls yellow top and it gets below freezing your going to need a battery blanket, mine would die after sitting for a day. Adding the battery warmer finally keeps my Optima from being dead on cold mornings, just have to remember to plug it in!!

[@mcmurm11]

Very clean work Eric. Nice job.

[@kh155]

Although it looks like a circuit breaker was not supplied with the kit I think it would be wise to put at least a 150 amp breaker as close the the positive terminal as possible. Bussmann makes a nice one you can pick up at almost any auto parts store, better safe than sorry! I'm pretty sure that yellow top can deliver around 830cca, you will have a nightmare on your hands if something happened on that positive line without a breaker in place! Great vid though!

[@ericthecarguy]

Probably not a bad idea. Thanks for the comment.

[@mikejohnson9257]

if that trunk was considered small, what size was my '79 chevette's "trunk" considered to be? lol

[@IROC-ROB]

Great video, was it difficult to drop the tank. I have a 69 GTO and am on the fence about it

[@RossDuClair]

Hello, Eric. I have placed starter batteries in trunks for all the reasons you state. What I found was that connecting the negative battery terminal to the frame wasn't always reliable. The engine grounds had to be cleaned and the ground straps inspected. In spite of all that, sometimes my engines were hard to crank. So, when I mounted the battery in a trunk, I also ran a ground (usually welding cable) to the engine, with ground strap to the frame at the engine compartment; along with the positive cable run. The positive cable was then branched off to the fuse block for instruments and lights. Yes, the extra cost of the copper cable was a factor, but reliability improved. Do you fuse the positive cable in case it should short to the frame? I do like your attention to details.

[@JGnLAU8OAWF6]

Why not just cut a thread in the "frame" for that negative cable?

[@tvkasiatomek4824]

Антон Южаков or even better, why not to use holes that he already drilled and those threaded rods

[@UberAlphaSirus]

Антон Южаков i would have drilled a hole and welded a nut or bolt on. way to many places to corrode and give a bad ground on that meddly of washers and nuts. weld a nut on you just have the nut face to clean up with a bad ground

[@jackdedert2945]

Also, putting the lock washer on the bottom (top, when looking up) doesn't give it a good chance to bite into the frame to ensure a solid ground. Surely he had bolts somewhere in the shop that would have fit...although personally, I would have liked to see the ground terminal itself in direct contact with the frame, not with a stack of washers.

[@-ouv]

Instead of rounding it, put the nut down a few threads before cutting, cut it off, then unthread it a few times and it'll be real easy to install too.

[@jackdedert2945]

Thought that, too; but he didn't seem to have too much of an issue after he ground it off.

[@warmowed]

That part of the car that Eric cleared off for the negative terminal, won't that immediately start rusting causing a bad connection? It is bare metal on the bottom of a car.

[@anomamos9095]

With the engine bay so filled up by turbo etc Have you thought about a rear mount? It would shift another 50 lbs or so to the rear and still work just as good if not better . A rear mount runs so much cooler that they probably produce more power I'd love to see someone do a dyno test on front vs rear mount.

[@OnlyGuns561]

now how would you run the fuse box to the battery? would you run it with the positive or run a separate cable?

[@prometheuspaintball]

You may have answered this already but why does a battery need to be vented? I have a first generation Miata and I was curious if I could use an Optima Battery ?

[@MorrowSind]

...adding the word "grommet" to my vocabulary.

[@richardquinones2959]

Eric you're awesome love your videos bro awesome keep up the good work I'm learning so much from you

[@ericthecarguy]

Thanks!

[@TheSavageGarage]

No lock washers, nylock nuts or locktite on the bottom nuts? Interesting

[@stupa55]

I would use butterfly nuts on the top cover to remove it faster if you need to without any tools :-)

[@yambo59]

Have you ever seen marine style battery terminals that uses posts-? Seems like ive seen some really nice ones, made from superior materials and better design, some have leverage clamps etc.

[@GeorgeGardinier]

would a switch be put on the ground on the box be a good thing or the positive

[@milan1969]

Why not weld the bottom nuts to the threaded rod?

[@arcorob]

Hey eric...So with the ground in the back, do you add a ground lug somewhere up front so that you can pull ground without having to fish all the way to the rear ? In other words, does that rear ground pretty much cover the whole body the way ground to the block does ? Thanks

[@SpeedrunTnRC]

My relocation kit doesn't seem to have a vent tube or hole for one it needs to vent outside? Is it illegal or unsafe not to have one?

[@Drives31forhalo]

wont that bare metal rust over time? wouldn't it be a good idea to put some paint over it to prevent rust?

[@DigitalDash96]

8:00 Deez nuts lol but quick question why put the battery by the fuel cap door? Wouldn’t it be better to put it on the opposite side also safer or is it easier to run the wire by the gas tank I’m guessing ?

[@dukebmxrider]

I knew you shouldn't have dropped the entire rod in the hole, must have hurt your fingers working the nuts down that Loong rod😂 but I guess that's how it goes when it's a labor of love...😁

[@frankgonzalez24]

Are you going to put a battery cut off switch, and if so where?

[@mindthependulum6245]

Hey Eric, for the best drill bits that zip thru metal, go to Fastenal. Way better than any other hardware store garbage.

[@ArchimedeanEye]

Not my favorite battery box in the world, but nice clean install.

[@johannes3174]

My battery itself has an outlet for the vent. Do i need the big box anyway?

[@SuperDave21]

Eric, how do you feel about double nutting the all thread on the bottom of the car, or spot welding the nuts to the all thread... I'd worry the vibration would loosen the assembly and fall off letting the battery free to roam the interior of the trunk?

[@ericthecarguy]

I seriously doubt it's going to come loose. Remember I installed a lock washer. Thanks for your comment.

[@Adam-qb6pu]

Hi Eric, Why did you cut the carpet like that? Wouldnt it have been a bit cleaner to just make some small incisions for the two threaded rods, and let the bottom tray sit over the carpet?

[@jackass123455]

Adam Robarts then how do you lift the carpet to get at the spare tyre?

[@Adam-qb6pu]

Fair point! didnt think of that

[@stateboy80892]

My car has a negative battery terminal sensor... How do I relocate this along with my battery in the trunk?!

[@someusername121]

You're going to spray those holes that you ground on with paint or rubberized coating right? I cringe a bit every hole thats made knowing how salt corrodes everything.

[@Stantonv]

I would add the solenoid to the outside of the battery box. That way you wouldn't have a constant "hot wire" traveling all the way to the front.

[@jackdedert2945]

The battery doesn't just start the car.

[@Stantonv]

Hey Jack, I agree but why does that matter?

[@jackdedert2945]

If the battery's in the back, you still have to run hot wires to the front. Something has to fire the solenoid you put back there.

[@Stantonv]

Jack Dedert I wonder why it is that when you buy a trunk mounted battery kit the supplier always suggests that you mount the solenoid next to the battery.

[@jackdedert2945]

Most I've seen are manual cutoffs. In any case, a solenoid requires a hot wire to the front of the car, the thing you said it would avoid. The switch which activates in needs 12v in order to function, unless you use some sort of low voltage circuit...still a hot wire.

[@jimnicosia5934]

Eric CarGuy, can a car electrical system run from the alternator after it has been started and the battery is dead?

[@FyberOptic]

Is a lock washer even still effective when one side is against other rotatable washers rather than the opposing surface?

[@jackdedert2945]

My thought as well. Surely he had some shorter bolts somewhere.

[@weaton25]

I think that I would have gone with a boat type plastic box rather than a metal one and I think that I would have put it in the middle behind the rear seats you may need to have the door on the side of the box to do that but it would take up less room.