How to Install An Expansion Tank

In this video I will show you how to install a thermal expansion tank.
Parts and tools used:
Strap kit - amzn.to/3c0Zr33
Drill - amzn.to/2Viv8z0
Solder - amzn.to/2P0iTnG
Sand Cloth - amzn.to/2J7dAyZ
Solder Torch - amzn.to/39Wruih
Sand Cloth - amzn.to/2J7dAyZ
Flux - amzn.to/2MtEkM2
Stud finder - amzn.to/38TuFr5
Open ended adjustable wrench - amzn.to/3b7ZDgH
Flex connector - amzn.to/2uoD6vz
Expansion tank- amzn.to/2SQL2z6
If you can't do this yourself, I recommend Amazon Home Services to find a competent local plumber: amzn.to/2qb4xBP

[@craftyman101]

Great video. I was so impressed at how direct and to the point. No long windy walks in the park with this video. So tired of watching videos on something and the presentation is filled in with cute non essential bs. Good job!

[@anthonypatterson8796]

my man, you helped me out as a new homeowner

[@Wesmancan]

Short and to the point. I already know why and when to use one.

[@stuffedninja1337]

Thank you for this. Watts’ website was the opposite of helpful, and I’ve been charged with figuring out how to install this, despite the other person working in contracting and construction for 30+ years. Nice that this was simple and direct.

[@billyeldridge1929]

Great video you made it much easier than I was expecting thank you so much. SEMPER-FI

[@PetePuebla]

The great video! Thanks for Sharing! Hope to see more videos in the future! Thumbs up!

[@nidoevin1]

That was a really helpful video

[@vernroach3413]

Thanks for the simplicity...I still think the expansion tank over kill, with the pop off valves serving nearly the same purpose, and many back-flow's BS too...Never once saw a problem where they actually prevented anything...Did HVAC and Bldg Systems Maintenance for 40 plus years and over engineering is abundant...I believe in safety first, but BS is still BS...Sorry for the rant...Thanks again...I love watching the tradesmen.

[@UnkDrefinest]

Great job I enjoy good Plumbing work. 👌🏾

[@mei-lanyoung485]

I wish my husband watched this video before he installed ours. 😅 Thank you for the video. I subscribed!

[@markmyers9019]

Thank you so much for the video.

[@chrisblair6914]

Thank you bro learn something new ✌️

[@jinsu0504]

I wish for once i can spend my money and have someone like you install things the right way without any complications....sigh..

[@rolandpartolan9250]

Thank you for the video! This is exactly what I needed. A few details I'd like to know. This is how I foresee steps prior to connecting the "T". 1) Turn off the cold water, 2) empty the water heater, 3) remove the pipe (or tube of some sort) from the shut off valve and top of water heater, 4) make the "T" and install. Did I forget anything? Like to see a vid on this procedure if possible but if too simple then I can work with just text. Any other suggestions/recommendations is truly appreciated. Thank you!

[@angelacevedo300]

Thank you

[@deanbaker3463]

I'm getting ready to change one a bit of questions if possible

[@ywanzee]

It seems that in your region the air in the water heater tank is removed from the bottom of the tank. Learning something new every day.....

[@AngelZuniga831]

Danny; can you install an expansion tank on an water heater that is located outside in a water heater enclosure. Also there isn't much room inside the enclosure so the expansion would be mounted outside the enclosure.

[@blt981]

First time I’ve seen flexible water line used..to expansion tank..can I use Pex A. 1/2 or 3/4 for that..

[@ricardosaucedo5103]

Do You need check your relief valve too or not

[@cheesebutt1000]

Is the Watts etx30 suitable for a furnace boiler system? Or only water heaters? Would I be able to use it right outta the box without pumping it up

[@williamgildea8348]

I’m glad you installed it in the proper orientation.

[@rss608]

This guy is correct, the pressure tank is on the cold water side is correct. I located mine under my kitchen sink, on the cold water side. It doesn't have to mounted on top of your water heater. Could be any where on the cold water line in the house in front the water pressure regulator if you have one. Just a couple of flex hoses and a water T can make mounting and installing and servicing the tank, easy. Plumbers like the water heater mount because they get paid for changing the plumbing. Gotta use your brain people.... they reduce the pressure on your thermal/pressure safety valve and revents it from leaking.

[@Wrathrex]

You don't even need one the pressure relief valve actually removes the pressure from the tank , its the name of the valve for Christ sake . hey let's sell you this tank with an additional 50 to 80 pounds of pressure to put in your system to "protect" it how does that make sense ? Please correct me if I'm wrong but older heaters never had these , just the pressure relief valve .

[@neonkkk87]

What if I don't have a water pressure regulator?... thanks.

[@tinpony9424]

@@Wrathrex Older heaters didn't have them because they were on "open" systems that didn't have backflow restrictors. Backflow restrictors can be in a city water meter, so not always something you will see. When the water heater heats water, there's nowhere for the added pressure of expanding water to go, except in your water heater and plumbing. True that the temp pressure relief valve will allow pressure out of a closed system, but usually at a higher pressure. So, an expansion tank is like a shock absorber that gives the extra pressure a place to go when the water heater is heating the water. It doesn't "add pressure" to the system. It's the same pressure as your water supply. The air in it compresses as needed, allowing expansion from heating to be a non-issue.

[@Wrathrex]

@@neonkkk87 then your system is open without an inlet check valve you should be good . And your pressure relief valve discharges at 90 psi. In order to prevent damage you should be good. Especially if it's an older property without city updated plumbing.

[@erickirshner2810]

​@@Wrathrexyou're very wrong. The T&P valve isn't meant to be triggered often. After a few times they can fail and start to leak. Second, if you leave it up to the valve you'll have hot water all over your basement floor every time it relieves pressure. I'd say a $50 expansion tank is worth the money.

[@alexandergallegos5577]

Good work. Hope those stainless flex lines are dielectric to prevent galvanic reaction to the existing copper. I personally would have ran copper flex dielectric flex lines to the heater and hard piped it to the expansion tank with a ball valve. That way you could replace the expansion tank if and when it goes bad. Harder for air to travel down to flush valve also. Would have used PRV valve at the top.

[@Sean-Aviation]

thanks. is it safe to install the expansion tank horizontally? its easier to do. less plumbing

How is the air in the bladder vented from the expansion tank with this setup ?

[@switchoff64]

Nice

[@jeffjohnson2792]

Thanks for the quick and dirty presentation. Can this be installed at the point of the relief valve of the hot water heater provided there's a T and the pressure relief valve is still present?

[@markhamilton3215]

want to know the answer me too

[@StilettoSniper]

No, that will not meet International Plumbing Code (IPC) and Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC) requirements. It needs to be installed off the water heater cold line.

[@sh2697]

what is the pressure psi?

[@kommoncents5853]

Would a potable water expansion tank as you used in your video, stop water hammering or do you still need hammer arresters at the fixtures ?

[@stevensenteno6963]

Check you water pressure probably to high due to a failing pressure regulator Or a strap has failed in the walls

[@Kp-2]

Does california code still require you to install one if the water heater has a t and p valve?

[@alexandergallegos5577]

Pressure relief valve is a totally different part mechanically. It allows blow of incase of tank malfunction. Expansion tank absorbs expansion from hot.water coming off tank.

[@wisamrabeea4026]

Hello, what happen if installing expansion tank upstream of full open valve to water heater ? thanks

[@polarlab113]

Just follow the instructions.if it is not to manufactures specs you could be voiding your insurance if you have a claim and negating any warranty on your hot water heater

[@DonaldDump2024]

Great job and explanation. I like that you strapped it to a stud. Question: is it better to mount the expansion tank with the water inlet on top or the bottom? I thought to Mount the inlet on the bottom (like well pressure tanks) or does it not matter?

[@masonlovesroblox]

The label of the expansion tank is upright with the air nozzle on the bottom. I’m assuming that is why it is mounted that way.

[@alonguanama]

Whats the correct way to install the tank, like he did, or upsidedown?

[@leerhoton6617]

Hey Danny, video really helps, question, do you have to drain your water tank to open up the cold water pipe after I close the cut off value?

[@How2Plumb]

No you do not have to drain the whole tank. You may want to put a small bucket or some rags under where you cut because there will be a little water. Thanks for watching.

[@drdez]

Its good to drain your tank like once a year or so just to remove any sediment that might have collected in the tank. It will ensure that you get the max lifetime out of your tank.

[@markhamilton3215]

@@drdez THANKS YOU SO MUCH , very logic and i didnt even think about that...we are installing a new one today and man i think you will help me getting the max lifetime like you say. BIG thanks you for this logic advice !!!

[@markhamilton3215]

@@drdez whel i will drain 1 per year , i assume i should cut the power before draining isnt ?

[@onemorething100]

Was that OJ's Crib? HAHA

[@brentwong2624]

Would I need a check valve somewhere? Before expansion tank or after it?

[@dangda-ww7de]

no

[@codydavis3698]

Is this my why tank keeps popping the value?

[@SunnyKumar-hj4iy]

Can't you install tbis tank as is? With 20 PSI pre charge?? Does it have to be the same as incoming water pressure from thecity or after the prv???

[@How2Plumb]

It has to match the city PSI

[@StilettoSniper]

@@How2Plumb No, I do not believe this is correct at all. The pre-charge on the expansion tank has to match the water pressure within the cold water line feeding the water heater. If the water heater is installed after a pressure reducing valve, then the expansion tank pre-charge should match the water pressure after the PRV and NOT the higher city supply water pressure. Charging the expansion tank to the pressure of the city water supply when the water heater is installed AFTER a PRV defeats the entire purpose of the water expansion tank. The bladder that is internal to the expansion tank must be able to provide expansion above the PRV output pressure, and pre-charging the tank to the much higher city supply water pressure will prevent this from occurring.

[@kenbaker4528]

How do you pick the size of the expansion tank? Is it based on the size of the water heater?

[@How2Plumb]

Yes

[@Hethalean]

There's general guides you can google, and from what I've read, oversizing is no problem. Undersizing is the problem. So I'm going to get one soon myself, but my water heater is like 13 years old and may need to get a bigger one when it's time. So I'm going with one that's bigger than I need now.

[@dannyboy9254]

question. I just install mine but I put the tee on top of the pressure tank and copper to the valve and to the waterheater. ? did I install it wrong or did I just wasted more copper only?

[@How2Plumb]

That’s totally fine.

[@dannyboy9254]

@@How2Plumb I kinda figured that because its the same thing but different route a route that nobody does because it waste more copper. thank you

[@TheGlutes]

@@How2Plumb ​ @How2Plumb I read that the tee should be on the top because the weight of the water wil stretch the bladder unnecessarily ... resulting in a premature death of the exp tank. Menawhile, Watts spec's just say it can be mounted horizontally or vertically but doesn't get into the details of which end is up. I'm working with the same expansion tank but with a gas fired tankless water heater. Can set me straight? Thx in advance.

[@tinpony9424]

@@TheGlutes The water enters through the tee. The water would be on top, if the tee is on top. The air pressure in the bladder equalizes the water pressure, and weight of the water.

[@truthhurts7624]

Does the expansion tank have to be above the inlet or can it be below the top of the tank if space is limited?

[@How2Plumb]

It can go anywhere in the cold water system.

[@alexandergallegos5577]

Preferably at the top closest to heater as possible is code in many areas. After valve.. manufacturer recommends installing vertical water over air.

[@KittySwirlC]

I have installed expansion tank in the hot water line on a tankless water heater, it that ok ?

[@How2Plumb]

No

[@scottjohnson676]

Expansion tanks are used on boiler systems that use a hot water range of 125-195 degrees. The domestic water system is not isolated. I have yet received an explanation why its put on the cold water side instead of the hot water side.

[@markhamilton3215]

@@scottjohnson676 Scott , so if our new heat heater have a spec of 194 -284 (F) we absolutelly need to install an Expansion Tanks ?

[@Bluecollarworker]

Flexible water lines will not pass inspection in NJ, USA

[@donb7113]

I now know why I want a professional to do it.

[@anthonypayne6032]

WOW water pipe outside scary it must never freeze.

[@Superboi100]

they're in California...

[@larryjkesch]

You didn't tell us to turn the water off and how to do it

[@polarlab113]

First of all watts tanks are inferior.amtrol is the definitive product nowadays.good job checking the pressure beforehand.and he installed it right end up.it calls for these tanks to be vertically mounted with schrader valve down.so many vids show the tank mounted upside down.if you have an accident and need to call your insurance company they will deny your claim due to improper installation

[@NightSky777]

So the "Manufacturers Instructions" for the water Expansion Tank say to INSTALL it with Schrader valve at the Bottom??

[@dangda-ww7de]

@@NightSky777 Yes, manufactures want the water to be on top.

[@robertleewhitt6241]

Should not that expansion tank > > be upside down ?

[@How2Plumb]

It can go either way.

[@robertlee3805]

@@How2Plumb thank you 🙏

[@LionsTigersBears]

OJ s old house?

[@christopherertel5012]

What you did will work 100% as well as any other installation for sure however, this is diy quality for anyone that wants professional level results. Just a few tips (take it or leave it). Straps on tank: line up the tensioner bolts and possibly angle them out of sight. Copper tee: very unnecessary, there are much easier ways to install a tee than soldering one. Not to mention, that was a very poor soldering job, especially considering you did that on a table. Flex hose to expansion tank: completely unnecessary and much more costly than piping into the tank and only having one hose to the water heater. Also, that hose wasn’t even long enough or you could’ve mounted the tank lower. I also would’ve patch the holes before mounting anything. More could be said but just a few suggestions like I said, that install is perfectly fine as far as mechanically speaking 👍🏻

[@1commonsense934]

You never said why you are installing ex tank..

[@NightSky777]

Did you install it upside down? I have one installed like that (water connection on Top) and two plumbers have commented to me that it was an incorrect installation --saying the water tubing should be on the Bottom [i.e. turn tank upside down]

[@How2Plumb]

Expansion tanks can be installed in any direction. Whether oriented uprightly, horizontally, or even upside down, the expansion tank will function properly without any adverse effects. When putting an expansion in an abnormal position (specifically sideways or horizontally), make sure to support the tank.

[@dangda-ww7de]

Tank company say to install the water on top, also if you look at the company sticker on the tank in the video they want you to install it like that, if you install it upside down you would read the sticker upside down.

[@NightSky777]

@@dangda-ww7de the tank label reads normal when the Expansion tank installed with hole/ opening-side down, base of tank up

[@jackmclane1826]

I have come to not use rubber bladder based thermal expansion tanks. They fail more often than anything else. Hot water systems just get an overpressure valve at the top of the system, bleeding off a gulp or two every now and then. Heating systems I keep open to atmosphere with a small water tank on the top side, that can equalize the volumes. Or slightly pressured buy that partially filled tank. But I will never use these rubber bladder BS again.

[@chrisminblkdiamond]

It's upside down.

[@NightSky777]

I & a plumber thought so too, but another commenter said the "Instructions" said to Install with Schrader valve on the Bottom ?