How to install Time-serts on BMW M52/M54 block (head bolt thread repair)

This video shows how to fix stripped head bolt threads from BMW M52 engine block. Same procedure works also for M52TU and M54 engines. and The Time-sert head bolt thread repair kit for M52 aluminum block is part number 1090 but the kit i'm using in this video is part number 1015. Addition to that I have 14 inserts for M52 block and the part number for those is 10155.

[@queencitycars]

Excellent video. Thanks man

[@davile7310]

All did the right thing! At me too a installed m52b25 Nikasil))

[@javarithms]

Great video!

[@Pavel_Engines]

Thank you for the video

[@xman5649]

Great video

[@clubherbalife6292]

Great job

[@eveneikaas7220]

Hello nice video. I have the helicoils in my block already but i wand to change them to time-serts. do you know how to get the old ones out?

[@MrWita]

Hi , thanks for the Video. But how about the Dowels, did they still fit and sit proper in place?

[@InYourAss78]

Awesome job :) Do you remember if tape is m12x1.5 please ?

[@KevsShed]

If I buy a Wurth Time Sert M10 x 1.5 Thread repair kit, what length of inserts do I also need to buy for an M52 block? It's the only thing I am not sure about as it seems that you are boring out to a depth of 24.5mm - 25mm but leaving a 6mm gap at the top of the insert, so 18mm inserts? Cheers, great video!

[@pazi88]

The inserts should be 25mm long. I'm boring much deeper than that 25mm so that the insert won't bottom out even with that 6mm gap.

[@KevsShed]

Oh OK, thanks for the help!

[@petermuelltonner8099]

Hey Sipa, so now this video is a few years old. With today's experience what would be your ultimate solution for boosted M5x aluminium engines regarding head bolts/studs and head gasket? What is your opinion on M12 head studs? Is there a better head gasket than stock and why? Thank you very much, love your channel!

[@pazi88]

Just stock head bolts and athena cooperring headgasket, and you will be holding +500hp for years. www.schmiedmann.com/displayproductdetails.aspx?id=1949898&tuote=330012r&gclid=cjwkcaia4y7ybrb8eiwadv1hazgxjb1li_lw0eo3ufyqpsvvehrnvyufizp4ht3q4pn6th6uhptmmbocwuuqavd_bwe

[@Jonodrew1286]

I would like to say each to his own. -if helicoils are implemented correctly they are stronger than the original material - time certs are also good and seem to be recommended over a helicoil repair, why? - because its is the only recognised repair for German cars and the Aerospace Industry why - it maybe because it is a solid insert and not a spring - I would still like to reiterate - helicoils are a stainless insert ll Common mistakes made with a helicoil - 1) not drilling out all of the original thread - This causes the head bolt to hit a misaligned part of an original thread l, resulting in jacking out the new thread, 2) Using the wrong tap - a lead or taper tap and a finish tap should be used to insure that couple of threads are not trapped against a taper, resulting in the bolt seizing against them. 3) when the helicoil has been installed, it may need the bolt to be fed through with and a slight up and down & side to side movement, to set the threads into their lands, to ensure free running. 4) when installing a helicoil, a slight upwards tension may need to be employed, in order to ensure a thread skip in avoided - this is where a thread space may have jumped. 5) Breaking of the tang, if you are too heavy handed, off center or the tang has not snapped of properly, it can get trapped when installing the bolt. 6) Tapping the thread without removing the swarf at least 3-4 times before completing the tap - this can cause elongation of the hole 7) Using the wring system for the wrong application - a Time cert was designed to compensate for excessive clearance - the solid insert system allows for a hole which may not accommodate a helicoil repair, due to excessive damage…,,, I have also seen Time Certs fail too!!!!!

[@Jet3ch]

great videos! I have a question, I plan on doing turbo on my m54b30, should over bore for 11mm ARP with timeserts? I've seen some people make power with stock head bolts and also internals for my motor, what do you think? thanks

[@pazi88]

M.I. A. Just use stock bolts with stock headgasket. The m54 uses thin mls headgasket which is superior compared to the old style gaskets found in m52/m50. It holds quite much boost with stock headbolts so that will not be problem. ARP doesn't even make stud kit for m54 and using m50 kit with timeserts fucks up the situation. Only use timeserts if the threads in the block are destroyed.

[@Jet3ch]

Thank you very much and keep up the good work!

[@Brisasfrias2]

I have a blown head gasket on a m54b30. I have been wondering whether to go with timeserts, or just add dual VANOS to a m50b25tu or m52b28 iron block and add the stroker from my m54b30. What is your opinion Pazi?

[@pazi88]

I would not put time timeserts unless the threads are ruined.

[@sofropilot]

sertit tilasin oikeat mutta kierretyökalut tilasin väärät että minkä kokoinen poranterä jolla porataan syvemmät reiät???

[@sebloebickx736]

tous.moi aussi.me passionne respects .Seb

[@WoWRasse]

my helicoil repair broke also for me :(. looking at time serts and what to buy, but i am confused. did you drill m12 serts in the block? kind of unclear. then i have to buy m12 head bolts to fit the serts. But my head also needs to be drilled beacuse the m12 bolts didn't fit. is that how you did it? making m12 repair in the block and drilled head so the m12 bolts fits? i have m52b28 engine 97

[@pazi88]

Did you read the description. I use time sert kit 1015 which is m10 as stock bolts are. The holes for the serts are m12 but the timesert itself brings the thread size back to m10.

[@WoWRasse]

ok! how did you repair that block with broken helicoils? isnt the m12 bolt holes stripped?

[@pazi88]

Rasmus Ahlblom I haven't yet fixed the block with broken timeserts. in this video I fixed another block with just stock threads stripped.

[@tcjay119]

There is a timesert kit for broken helicoils. Just avoid the helicoils in the first place👍🏽

[@_coffeeandcigars]

hey pazi, would it be possible to timesert a block that has helicoils already? Do you know the thread size that is cut for the timeserts?

[@pazi88]

The thread size seems to be same in timserts and helicoils. But I'm not sure if it will hold well.

[@_coffeeandcigars]

ok so both most likely have M12x1.5 in the block before installation. I really dont trust the ones that are in a block i bought. they are crooked and the thread arent smooth. Maybe i can get some custom inserts made with M14 threads.

[@pazi88]

654879 5469684 There is also timesert kit to fix broken helicoil threads :D Those are 14mm. But the kit is expensive as hell.

[@_coffeeandcigars]

Yeah iam not really keen to spend the money on this stuff... Right now iam exploring the idea of a custom insert: M14x1,5 outside and M10x1,5 inside. Flange 1 mm thick 15mm diameter. (Two special ones for the 13,5 dowels). Iam looking into different liquid metal adhesives/Loctite for securing the insert.

[@dailywelded2725]

i put helicoil on m52 aluminium block with arp head bolts and cometic head gasket, also i surface the head and block. what do you think pazi88? thanks

[@pazi88]

Dailywelded Don't use arp studs. They can strip out even the helicoils. Just use stock bolts.

[@dailywelded2725]

i have arp and cometic head gasket already, so what i`m doing is take out the aluminium m52 block and changing it for an iron block that i have, better option isn`t it?

[@pazi88]

Yes that's one solution. Or you could sell the arp studs, by stock bolts and buy beer using the 150 bucks you just saved :D

[@dailywelded2725]

ahahah .I will use a turbo in my project that will be safe work in 0.8 bar? i´m looking for380 400 hp.

[@pazi88]

Dailywelded The stock bolts should be fine up to 1.5 bar boost with proper headgasket. We did even run 0.7 bar /370 hp with stock headgasket without problems.

[@northernmaten7676]

hey i have the same problem but not in the block its in the head i have 3 bolt that hold the cmashaft need repair

[@pazi88]

You can use normal helicoils to fix those threads. Those are cheap and plentiful.

[@sicompcmaschine]

Onko sulla tietoa mikä lohko on Alpina B10 e39 3.3 moottorissa? Ja löytyisikö uutta lohkoa mistään vai kannattaisiko tehdä kierteiden korjaus?

[@pazi88]

NasserFat siinä on käsittääkseni jenkki m52/s52 rautalohko porattuna ylikokoon.

[@sicompcmaschine]

Okei. Mistähän tuon tiedon sais varmistettua? Jostain netin lähteestä luin, että Euroopassa ois alumiinilohko ja USAssa rauta. Saakohan tuollasta lohkoa mistään valmiina? vai voiko tuollaisen tehdä ite yleisemmästä lohkosta?

[@pazi88]

NasserFat kysy alpinalta :D M52 koneissa on euroopassa alulohko ja jenkkilässä rautalohko. Mutta alpina on joutunut käyttämään rautalohkoa, kun alulohkoa ei voi porata niin isoksi mitä tuo 3.3 litran iskutilavuus vaatii. Periaatteessa se on ihan perus m50 lohko, mut siinä taitaa olla takapäässä lohkon kyljessä kampuran asentotunnistin, eli jenkkimallin m52 lohko siis. Mut jos sul onkin siinä jakopään kopassa kampuran asentotunnistin, voit käyttää m50 lohkoa aihiona. Se pitää vaan porata ylikokoon. Rauta m52 lohkoja saa toki jenkki ebaystä helpostikkin.

[@ivile]

You can also use M11x1.5x30mm and VAG/Seat AAE headbolts, Elring part: 302.250 X2 sets. I do this on all my M52/M54 blocks, also good if you are going forced induction.

[@InYourAss78]

Hi, Do you have reference of the vag head stud m11 please or car model ? Thanks in advance :)

[@dzozepe]

hello what is the torque for these bolts? Same as for VAG? Is the head capable of dealing with such torque?

[@Jakedelus]

Mitenkäs tämä korjaus lopulta kesti ja jouduitko hommaamaan spesiaalikokoset uudet ohjuriholkit kannelle kun porasit nuo isommat upotukset lohkoon ?

[@pazi88]

Ei tämä kestäny. Parilta pultitilta nousi kierre ylös kun kone oli käytössä.

[@olli-pekkasiponen626]

Vanha video mutta ajankohtainen itselle. Onko kokemusta tekeekö Oulun seudun (tai vaikka 200km säteellä) koneistamot näitä timesertien asennuksia (että on kokemusta alulohkoisista koneista), tai onnistuuko sinulla tällainen homma M54 lohkoon tässä talven aikana?

[@pazi88]

En tiiä yhtään tekeekö Oulussa mikään firma näitä. Mut jos hommalla ei oo paniikki, niin multa onnistuu.

[@olli-pekkasiponen626]

@@pazi88 tässä talven aikana, kone irtoaa tässä viikon sisään autosta. Minäpä laittelen jotain savumerkkejä niin sovitaan lisää.

[@uscp2]

Do you have an idea what the limit is for the stock head bolts with an MLS gasket?

[@pazi88]

Not really. Depends mostly how thick/thin the mls is. Thinner it is, better it will hold pressure. But something between 1-2bars :D

[@uscp2]

@@pazi88 ok, cool. I'll be pretty save with 0,9bar than. I am switching from my GT28 to a HX35 now. one more question regarding that, what oil restrictor did you use on your HX35?

[@imhauseable]

So, do you know yet if it works?

[@pazi88]

imhauseable Yeah it works.

[@imhauseable]

Thanks. I might put in the time then. GREAT videos, I have spent a lot of time on those

[@motherphoque8843]

Is it true that you gonna need stronger head bolts/studs for a turbo for this engine?

[@pazi88]

Nope. I have been running stock bolts for years in turbo engine (557hp)

[@dzozepe]

Why dont you just buy longer taps and drill it yourself. The drills are cheap and you can buy literally any size the tap also. So you repaiur everyone with bigger thread and bigger bolts and you get better hold for pressure

[@simonhill6267]

The timeserts are nowhere near as deep as I thought they would be.

[@TUHOKAPTEENI]

Mitä vauvaääniä tuola taustalla on :D

[@pazi88]

KAPTEENI TUHO juu niin kuuluu :D Mikrofoni onki äänet kaukaa toisesta huoneesta. Nää on vielä näitä harjoittelu videoita :D

[@MillennialYoutubeAdventurer.]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/oYDJqZqVedmiY7c --------- Tarkoittaa varmaan lopussa sinua. At the end means you and the method?

[@pazi88]

Yeah sounds like it :D

[@liontitties]

You used this kit: goo.gl/BWxDzV ? I want to avoid using the $450 kit and just freehand the counterbores like you did

[@pazi88]

Yes I did. I included the part numbers to the description.

[@dziabi3]

Ale wkurzający głos.