How to make 303-507 Crank timing peg for ford mazda 2.3l 2.0L engines

[@baxrok2.]

You did a good job. Went through a bit more trouble than you needed to but you got the job done. I bought my tools online for around 35$ (us). Surprised you had trouble finding them online? Thanks for making the video since it will definitely help some folks!

[@hi-powerdetailingstirling]

I definitely went through more trouble then I had to. But I did it for science. hahaha

[@micahgrover8158]

Thank you, for future reference on the comments it's an M10 1.5 40mm not M 12

[@hi-powerdetailingstirling]

thanks for the correction. its been quite some time!

[@snowblind5151]

Auto Zone now rents the locking pin and plate ,they give you 3 different pins ,for the 2007 Ford Escape (vin z) 2.3L it is the shortest pin of the three , witch is 2 and 1/8 or 2.625

[@hi-powerdetailingstirling]

Thanks for the tip! in canada we dont have Autozone but crappy tire / partsource probably does the same thing!

[@ROBERTRV1975]

FYI.. The tool is exactly 38.5 mm. You can shave off a little of the 40mm bolt to 38.5 mm or 1.516 inch and use it to set the timing, No need for all this welding and cutting and stuff. I have no idea why the guy here is doing all that.

[@hi-powerdetailingstirling]

Robert Arave you are right! Except I didn't have the exact tool to compare, and I dreamed up this solution in about 5 minutes, and it worked

[@hi-powerdetailingstirling]

But yes I could have just shaved a bolt shorter, but the diagram I had shower a much smaller shenk on the end. Welding was faster then grinding the diameter of the bolt shorter

[@mplsgrandamse]

Is 38.5 the length of the threads? Just the "pin part" part? Or the total lenght of the bolt including the head?

[@hi-powerdetailingstirling]

JEEPIN MC its not the length of the threads. Look at the tool. The bolt head end needs maybe 1/4 inch to 1/2 threads. The rest of the length is the pin. In this case do what I did and use a vernier to measure your hole depth. Dont have a vernier you say? Use a skinny screwdriver and wrap tape around to mark the depth. Compare to your tool and try. The tool can be a bit long, but then you can't bottom it out. Thats why I measured and made my tip adjustable *despite the neg comments about that*. If its too long and you bottom it out, your certainly not tdc anymore The tool I made, doesnt care how deep the hole is, I can adjust it longer or shorter in infinte configurations. I can measure, adjust, apply. Simple Bet the people who chirped it didnt think of that lol the fact that 99% of the shit I do, isn't ford. Mostly bmw, subaru, mercades ect

[@ionelorasanu3762]

For mazda 6 2.0 benzin 141 cp 2004 is good??

[@oscarpalacios7198]

GREAT VIDEOS THANK YOU SO MUCH

[@MasterChief-sl9ro]

Just pull an exhaust bolt. Flip it around. It's the perfect length to lock the crank down..If your lazy. Just go buy a new exhaust bolt. Grind the first half threads off. Then it fits without having to remove the drive shaft..

[@BroncoED1972]

I found out the same thing.

[@BroncoED1972]

Use your exhaust stud. IT reaches perfectly turn it so its on the high spot of the torx.

[@tirelantony]

Thank you man you are a legend

[@dunebasher1971]

Couldn't you just use a shorter M12x1.50 bolt without any modification at all (no chamfering)? All it has to do is thread into the hole and press up against the crankshaft to prevent it moving, is that correct?

[@hi-powerdetailingstirling]

dunebasher1971 its correct yes and no. It has to go in a specific distance, or you push it past tdc with the pin. The same goes with a pin too short. The pin works by stopping the engine from rotating one direction. You use the crank pully hole to help as well

[@hi-powerdetailingstirling]

dunebasher1971 as long as it butts against the counterweight on the crank. You might need to shave under the head of the bolt to get that extra 1 mm. Tbh I stuck a vernier in the hole while it was at tdc, and then I got a hold of blueprints for the tool. Its been a while, but what your thinking might work (dont forget the crank pully has an alignment hole as well, its just not enough to rely on (could snap the pully say trying to remove the nut on the crank)

[@MasterChief-sl9ro]

@@hi-powerdetailingstirling You can't use the crank pulley alignment hole to remove the crank bolt. It will snap that timing cover threads right out. It's only used to align the pulley to the crank sensor. And you better make sure you torque that crank pulley bolt. While that crank lock down bolt is in there. To prevent damaging the timing cover or the crank moving. As it will bend them valves cause the timing is off.

[@scottsmith6821]

timing kit with 3 different pins inc this one and cam setting bar £10 . why bother making one?

[@garethmason9255]

Hi mate is this the same for a ford focus 1.9 tdci engine. Measurement? It looks like the same..

[@snowblind5151]

So , viewing these comments here I'm totally lost - m12 or m10 ? 40 mm or 38.5 mm? . I found that I have a 2007 Escape 2.3(Z VIN) witch calls for a specific bolt.

[@hi-powerdetailingstirling]

snowblind5151 m10 if memory serves me correctly, 38.5 mm, 40 mm, 39.89777788854332 mm. doesnt matter (if its 40 mm dont turn it in the hole tight(youll feel it when it hits, screw bolt in by hand) just until its resting on the counterweight of the crankshaft! also if in doubt, remove the plug for the blind hole, the size of the plug is the size of bolt required! I made it 38.5mm or something, but it was adjustable (my design). with the length I made it bottomed out in the hole and held the crank still. the threads on the tool I made face opposite ways so the extension on the end will rotate inwards when bottomed, which means my tool self adjusts to short enough if that makes sense. despite the extra work involved, theres a reason why I made it that way (I foolproofed it basically) you can use a small bolt on the crank pully to line it up I forget the size but its a little dinky baby bolt lol. measure the depth of the hole with a vernier (if you don't have a vernier use a long screwdriver and mark with tape, will get you close enough) basically the bolt just touches the counterweight. its just to holf it still/keep it in time, also using the crank pully hole lets you lock the crank and really feel easily when your tool has bottomed out! the real purpose of the tool is to get the crankpully off and help set the timing back up after! without the tool mentioned, chain visegrips on the pully to hold still, impact to busy the nut loose, and use the crank pully bolt hole to align tdc, if your feeling brave lol, but that would work (99% sure the crank has a woodruff key ) I hope this helped! if theres any further confusion don't hesitate to ask for clarification!

[@hi-powerdetailingstirling]

just make sure to lock off tjr cams before removing the timing chain. they will want to fly around once the belts off, the valve springs put pressure on the lobes, but when the cams go snap and whip around, its easy to bend valves. if you dont have a flatbar or keystock to lock the cams, I suggest to rotate the motor so the pistons are halfway on their stroke, remove chain, then set to tdc carefully as not to collide the valves. i remember this is a non interference motor, but I had bent valves and marked pistons (from the customers neglect that made me have to fix it in the first place) so yes the motor is free wheeling, but I saw the aftermath of valve to piston ( motor was overheated severely and head was warped) just wanted to share incase it helps anybody else!

[@EstebanViquez]

Liked it 👍🏼 Thanks

[@giocoto5511]

Buenas alguien tiene la medida del largo del tornillo para el cigüeñal del Ford focus 2003 2.0 Zetec..

[@chrishapp4742]

I LOVE your final comment before the camera goes off. Yes, that engine is a POS and having to do all this REALLY SUCKS TO DO. An intelligent engineer would never have designed an engine with no alignment key in the crankshaft. F^&*ing Ford.

[@hi-powerdetailingstirling]

Chris Happ haha so true Chris. They should have to publish a paper to sheepishly explain why their design is so "great". They shoupd also have to teardown and rebuild their design 10x after implementing. You know. Maybe they would see the error in their ways. First that would require knowing better in the first place! Tbh. Progress forward isnt something in capitalistic interest. We're gonna be drip fed watered down improvements in 5 year iterations until greed pisses off and they smarten up. Which is not likely I'm embaressed by how slowly my industry has moved forward. Before my life and during We had fuel injection in the 70s. That took 15 years to catch on. Weve seen ford pretend they invented the turbo with "eco boost" Idk I just have a hate on for how shitty designs are laid out. Theres a special circle in hell for engineers who design things to be assembled versus to be worked on! I also hate companies who try to market shit like they invented it (eco boost! Weeeee look at how engviro friendly I am)! I have eco boost too! Except its a turbo, and theres nothing economical about adding more air (thus fuel) thus using more fuel. Yeah. Eco. Or something. Weeeeeee

[@ionelorasanu3762]

For mazda 6 2004 141 cp benzin gg/gy is t good ?

[@javierhuerta8546]

La banda

[@leonelgonzalez2847]

Saludos . Las especificaciones del tornio para el mazda seed

[@vegeta1470]

El tornillo es un M10 1.5. 40 mm espero y te ayude.

[@frankmoralesdiaz4042]

Good I can not synchronize a motor lf 2.0 mazda mx5, already double 2 times the valves

[@hi-powerdetailingstirling]

You should be able to synchronize it with this tool. pin in the crankshaft, and the camshafts have little slots / keyways in the rear. a peice of 1/4 inch square keystock will fit in perfect to lock of the cams, and the bolt does the crank. easy as pie my friend!

[@genericcommenter7250]

Haynes says use a 63.4mm (2.5") M10 bolt and job done.

[@hi-powerdetailingstirling]

Boba Fett thanks Boba Fett! When I have a minute later I'll update the video info to reflect that! Its been a few years so my memory is hazy on the specs and length. I appreciate you clearing up any uncertainty!

[@genericcommenter7250]

I have a screenshot of the Haynes manual for the Ford Escape '02 with 2.0: www.dropbox.com/s/z3iivh59tv7gl90/Haynes%20Ford%20tool%20.jpg?dl=0 if that doesn't work, reply here and I can send it along

[@carlosbanegas7577]

thank you

[@HoUsEoFcAtS78]

Save $30 by buying $500 in other tools. Makes sense.

[@hi-powerdetailingstirling]

in what universe does a 63.4mm by x m10 bolt cost $500? Stick to watching information rather then trying to spread it. Some people Do things. Other people bitch about people doing things. No offense "Oh yeah I totally told everyone to go buy a welder and a drill press and... oh wait no I didn't" moron lol

[@hi-powerdetailingstirling]

last time I checked I can buy a M10 bolt for $0.20 at TSC or any local hardware store. OH MY GOD $500 Fucking Dollars! hahaha

[@HoUsEoFcAtS78]

@@hi-powerdetailingstirling You said it yourself. If you have a bench grinder, and a drill press. Most people don't just have these just "laying around". So my statement still stands. Because if you don't have these things, you probably shouldn't try making one of these. But people will surely try with a hand drill and a pair of vise grips.

[@hi-powerdetailingstirling]

and any self respecting weekend warrior or a mechanic will have a Vise. If they don't, they're shopping for one Seriously what home shop doesn't have a vise? Ever tried to break free a fastener and cant hold the part? Yeah that isn't gonna work. If you don't have a vise then you probably should stick to changing your oil or something

[@HoUsEoFcAtS78]

@@hi-powerdetailingstirling I never said anything about a vise. I said a drill press and a bench grinder. My vise is about 50 years old and will best any mainstream vise on the market today. But my point is if you don't have the money to invest in a drill press or bench grinder, you're kind of stuck drilling with a power drill. Have you ever tried drilling a perfectly plumb hole in a bolt directly in the center? 9 times out of 10, the hole will be cocked and won't function. So for a project like this for people trying to do it "cheap", they would need the proper tools to accomplish the goal. Better off spending $30 on the actual kit made for this engine.

[@narteyisaac398]

Hi I'm a auto mechanics i need job

[@hi-powerdetailingstirling]

Hi Automechanic. Have you applied to local shops around your area? also try putting an AD up online and drum up your own side work if you have the tools and equiptment to do so. you make alot more working for yourself like I do. I don't work crazy 12 hour days and I make about double what a shop would pay me. I do most of my work in the gravel driveway, including engine removals and reinstallation. I recommend not taking on tranny work because its not profitable for the time / effort. I find small service work to be the most profitable, especially when theres several stacked on one bill. I hope that helps. I know it doesnt help on the job front but maybe it will help you out financially in the future. I typically charge about $200 bucks to change say 6 spark plugs on an average car like a ford escape. plugs probably cost me like 60. Cost varies from region to region before anyone decides to flame me for charging $140 for 2.6 hours of my time. part of that money is markup on parts Remember 33% is usually parts, 33% is labor, and 33% is profit to reinvest into tools and equiptment. I'd find a new trade though because electric cars are gonna put us mechanics out of business. I'm going back to school currently to change careers simply becuase internal combustions days are numbered

[@sallehalisitisallehalisiti9531]

Hahahaha wronggg skill