Timing The Mazda/Ford 2.0/2.3/2.5 Engines. Part 3 - Tools, Components, Etc,.

[@rsm4412]

Excellent video, best tutorial on timing the mazda/ford duratec engine on the web, many thanks for taking the time 👍😃

[@baxrok2.]

Thanks!

[@obaidaamin7994]

Amazing tutorial !! for my Volvo V50 1.8 flexifuel duratec HE ..big thanks

[@bernardocardona9229]

@@obaidaamin7994 wwwWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW

[@renealdo5546]

Instablaster.

[@b_gumm]

You will affect thousands of lives for years to come. Thank you.

[@megatonesilva6546]

ASE Toyota technician here.......Watching this video makes me feel like im back in one of Toyotas demonstration rooms. This is as thourough instructions as I would see/hear when I was training.

[@huha123]

Thank god I found this video before I attempted to pull the crankshaft pully!!! I could not find a thing about this anywhere, I was so very worried I would screw something up. You saved me soooo much heartache!!!

[@exemjazhuel3428]

Tons of blessing for you buddy i dont know why ppl press that thumbs down button with all that piece of knowledge you share for free to all of us keep it up the good work Holla from Puerto Rico stay healthy

[@jaimerodarte5072]

Great video, and you are right very little info online on this timing issue thanks for taking the time to explain everything.

[@mikemurphy5655]

this was the best video of setting the timing on a mazda I've ever seen. Thank you, well done.

[@alpha2217]

I Never thought that, I can find such a detailed and much learning vedio on KZbin. Thank you so much for taking out time and effort to make this vedio.

[@mrfixitdellacertifiedfield5376]

someday check on my video on the Ford 2.3/ complete engine build with turbo Coming soon

[@sizzlacapleton1]

My man, 50 grand! And that still won't be enough to pay for this priceless tutorial. Thank u sir.

[@dgb5820]

One of the best automotive instructional videos on KZbin, your attention to detail is crystal clear, well done mate

[@OnelRiveronEdHe]

Thanks a million for this video. I'm in the process of resealing the engine on a 2015 Ford Escape with this 2.5 engine and I made the horrible mistake of removing the crankshaft pulley without finding TDC or marking anything. It's been an entire day of digging through forums and random websites for this information but your video saved my life.

[@baxrok2.]

Awesome. That's exactly why I made the series!

[@simonmudzudzu7704]

thank you very much for your tutorials on Mazda 3/Ford engine timing settings. Your clarity is perfect. Please keep it up.

[@scotschoor]

I had the crank position trigger wheel come loose on a 2013 C Max. I zipped the balancer off, and “Oh no...there’s no key way.” Very helpful video, especially pointing out that without the balancer installed, the chain doesn’t move. Thank you for the fantastic explanation!

[@baxrok2.]

Thanks Scot!

[@edwardamodei4338]

Thanks for detail explanation of the tools used. Very helpful to see how the counter weight and pin come in contact

[@YouTubehndl]

I want to thank you for this 4 part series. My 2016 Ford Fusion with the 2.5 jumped time and died at a stop sign. Thanks to this video series I completely understood what I was doing when I replaced the components using the All Data DIY manual. As it turns out, it jumped time because it was missing a friction washer between the crankshaft and the sprocket. With the M6 bolt in the pulley hole the cams lined up but the engine was still another 10-15 degrees from hitting the TDC peg. I’m surprised that the engine didn’t blow up. One tip I have is to definitely use the flats on the camshaft that look like a bolt to keep it from rotating while torquing the gears down.

[@Ueddyyytube]

Thanks for being so details, I thought 30 minutes was too long,but it is worth it, this can save me 3 days of work or even damage my engine, thanks so much, great job

[@gardosh37]

Thanks a lot Sr, so far the best explained video on timming mazda engines.

[@impetus6]

You really helped me out ! I noticed vibration at high rpms and it turned out to be Harmonic balancer. A little research told me it was a much bigger job than i thought. Without your help i would have messed it up. Thanks for taking the time to do this

[@buzzirific]

Thank you so much for making these timing videos! They were an invaluable tool that helped me get timing chains replaced. I couldn't have done it without you. Thanks again buddy!

[@ruzbehmusic]

whatched it in double speed and soaked all the information in. Thank you for being so through

[@baxrok2.]

Double speed is definitely the way to do it!

[@wyattoneable]

Boy you go into great detail. If I had this engine there would be no question as to how time it correctly! You explain things well, great job.

[@baxrok2.]

Yup, wish I had this info before I did my swap. Could have timed it myself and saved both $150 and three weeks of downtime! Thanks Dave!

[@mordeth141]

Hey man thanks alot. The manual was difficult to under stand on this procedure but now it all clicks and actually is my favorite engine to time.

[@allb4dinner962]

Man you just explained a he'll of a lot. Better than any vid. Good job

[@elijahtipton865]

These videos are everything I was looking for and some. Thank you for taking all of us into consideration and doing this

[@ChristianinChicago]

I changed the crankshaft seal due to what I thought was a leak in Ford Escape 2012 2.5L . Misaligned the balancer without knowing the info you just provided and got a misfire in cylinder one and check engine light with codes P0016 & P052a. This video is very informative and helpful!!

[@codyeaster2584]

Thank you so much for the video i didnt understand the timing at all its nothing like alot of cars God Bless you you rock man!

[@micmike]

Glad to have the details and the measured explanation. Thanks very much, appreciate it

[@roadsideguy5902]

I can't believe anyone could put a thumbs down on this video. This is the most educational video I found on this engine timing system. I found this video to be the most helpful of any help I got on this timing job. I even went to the local Ford dealership and looked on their computer and couldn't find this much accurate information. Thank you for taking time to explain and demonstrate the timing complexities of this engine. I do have a question. If I never took the timing chains off and only removed the pulley but moved the crank and cams out of sync with each other ,because I had no idea about their ability to move separately. Can I get this engine back in time? Also do you think the engine is damaged do to trying to start out of time?

[@baxrok2.]

You should definitely be able to get it back in time. You could spin the cams and crank separately without and problems. I demonstrate that in another video. It's hard to say if there was any damage done when trying to start it. It depends on how far the timing was off. FWIW, I ran my engine for weeks with the timing significantly off without any problems. I hope yours is okay.

[@roadsideguy5902]

@@baxrok2. thank you

[@roadsideguy5902]

@@baxrok2. Also when installing the crank bolt I must have over tightened, Because I could not get the engine to turn over until I removed the crank pulley bolt. Do you think I could have damaged anything by over tightening that bolt? Thank for your time.

[@baxrok2.]

@@roadsideguy5902 I don't think it's possible to "over" tighten the crank bolt unless it breaks. Something else is wrong. Inspect everything closely and try again. Good luck.

[@ManuelMendez1]

Sad that I only can subscribe once to your channel, thank you for taking the time to show exactly what I needed to know.

[@Paul1958R]

Excellent video series and explanation - I learned a lot. Thank you. Paul (in MA)

[@jorgemiray2508]

Perfect explained thanks nobody explained so clear,👌👌👌👌

[@Coletrain0128]

Thanks so much! Definitely great video! I had to swap the engine in my 09 fusion. Me not know this engine had no key way, I removed the pulley to get the engine in easier. Put it all back together and runs rough/won’t start. Tried all these different things as I was getting a p2004 code. Finally had enough and brought it to the shop. $500 later they told me the timing is likely off. Did some reading and it makes sense. Very strange engine. So thank you!

[@gubbah]

Thanks man, I need to replace my timing chain soon on a ford 2.0, now I know exactly how to do it. Will save me heaps.

[@falodunolakunle8495]

Excellent video, it helps me fix my Ford fusion timing thank you

[@zackarymeinert2727]

This series has been very informative and helpful. The only recommendation I have is a "table of contents" in the description with links to video sections. I wanted to reference a specific part again and I kept missing it skipping around. Thank you.

[@baxrok2.]

Glad it's been helpful and thanks for the suggestions. If I could do the series over I'd do several things differently like make it shorter and add timelines etc.

[@erickmartinez2301]

Thank you for explaining me and helping me set the timing in a 2008 FORD FUSION 2.3L GOD bless you

[@alonzogreen1527]

Excellent training video, great job. I truly learned a lot. Thank You,!!!

[@rudyrivera7306]

Great video very descriptive and all correct information. As for the diamond coated washer its only to be used on late model gears. Newer or after market gears are laser etched and should not use a diamond washer between the gear and crankshaft. As far as between the crank pulley and gear still haven't found a definite answer. Great video again really helped explain it to others thanks again.

[@baxrok2.]

Thanks for the info!

[@Trainwheel_Time]

I had the same deal with the washers. My 2005 2.0l doesn't call for the crank washers, only the cam sprocket washers. Mazda told me the crank washers were only used in the 2.3 turbo engines. I said fine, order the ones for the 2.3 and I'll put them in. For me, its worth it to have that bit of extra holding power for that crank sprocket.

[@deionle9355]

thank your video help me today i am working on 2012 ford transit 2.0 timming chain cover in california

[@PRIMOS413]

Thank you, You just got rid of a big headache for me trying to figure out this problem I had w/my engine, took it to a few mechanics had it plugged in the computer and still they couldn't figure out, all 3 mechanics told me crank position sensor is bad, but I knew that was not the problem the only thing I did was removed the crankshaft pulley to reseal the timing plate. Again thank you for all the xtra info

[@baxrok2.]

Excellent!! You are welcome.

[@adamjtaylor]

Stumbled across this video last night. I’m building a 2.5l for my MX5. Watches this and though I had the bar in at the top and the engine has never been opened I found the pin was not in contact with the balance weight. So seems it’s been out from the factory. Thanks for the great video!

[@baxrok2.]

Good catch!

[@seanloving2010]

This is awesome thank you so much mister! At 27:50 to 28:00 you say 360 a second time when you mean to say "another 180". Mahalo from Maui!

[@shadetreemech290]

Thank you so much. You answered all the questions I had and some I didn't know to ask. I plan to replace the timing chain etc on my 2009 Ford ranger 2.3L (137K miles). Now I feel confident that I can do this myself. The only thing is that I'm not sure that I will change the diamond washers. I think that I probably will. If I go that far I might as well go all the way and change them too. But, I'll have to wait for good weather as I will be working under my shade tree.

[@russellcruse7163]

Thank you!! 3 step timing only video I could find!!

[@keithwhitlock726]

Thanks for leaving out the final step of torqueiing the pulley bolt.

[@baxrok2.]

I didn't leave it out, you just can't find it.

[@SamuelCruz-r4p]

Thanks for the real video very detailed and right on point never seen a video so professionally done 👍 thanks for the effort the you put in this video is the best .

[@TheMarcoarrecis]

Very helpful You mention that if the time is off you can head a knock in the engine, I have the head rectified and after putting back together starting to have a knock coming from the cylinder

[@juanjacevedoj9664]

Thank you for your help your tutorial help me after three days. Hard work.

[@icemonk12]

Thank you👍🔧 this engine has me scratching my head on why they designed it lile this

[@mrfixitdellacertifiedfield5376]

On Mazda 2.3 liter Turbo Engines there are 2 marks , one on the cam sprocket one on the VVT that must be aligned at the 12 o clock position before the chain is installed ( with the plate holding the cams in place after TDC was set

[@saeidroshani4037]

thank you dear... this is most usefull video .... and is best tutorial on timing for both cars.mazda/ford ..i love it

[@rafaellara4122]

Love your videos mr. 😎

[@brianl1511]

Absolutely Excellent video sir. Much respect to you. Thank you

[@abcdefgh9138]

Love this series, sir! Keep up the good work.

[@baxrok2.]

Great! Thanks again for all of your help and support!

[@shanefrank3281]

I'm glad I watched this great video. I watched your #1 and #2 video and I was so confused when you were turning the crank and the timing chain and cams weren't moving. :)

[@Daniel-pz5wv]

Thank you for making these videos, my wife has an 05 Mazda 6 2.3 the rubber in the harmonic balancer wore out and put the car out of time while driving I was wondering if I should get another 2.3 engine to replace the bad one

[@baxrok2.]

Something to think about for sure. Then you'll have to think about who is going to replace it. I cover some of what is involved if you do it yourself in my engine swap videos. Good luck!

[@krlosknde4889]

Very professional explanation! Thank you so much for being clear with you explanation :)

[@baxrok2.]

Krlos Knde Thank you!

[@J1TORCIK]

Fantastic video, you could have been a college professor! I have to remove the head in my Ford 2.5 L, leaking exhaust valve to fix. Haven't started yet getting all the info first. To remove the crank bolt what do you use, how do you "hold" the crankshaft to keep it from turning while removing and tightening the crank bolt? Just the 10M bolt through the bottom of the pulley? Also the cam shafts must be removed to get to the head bolts, right? Only just need to put everything back where it came from when reassembling? I think I got this thanks to you video.

[@baxrok2.]

To remove/tighten the pulley bolt you remove the starter and hold the flywheel with a suitable tool like a heavy duty screwdriver or prybar with a flat end. Yeah, it's a two person job unfortunately. The 10mm bolt will break so don't do that for sure. Regarding camshafts, I don't know since I've never had to remove/replace a head. Yes, it sounds weird to say but reassembly is the reverse of removal. For more help, you should consult the factory service manual and/or visit Mazda3forums.com since the folks there have done it all! Good luck!

[@fixitman8028]

Great information. Thanks for posting. Very helpful

[@mein42]

how, this is nice. I am working on 2015 2.5L fusion. I lost the timing because I removed engine to fix it but I didn't know if we make the crank pulley bolt lose we lost timing, now I have idling problems, ill fix it tomorrow thanks for your video sr.

[@lalolara5735]

Thank you boss man thanks to you I finally got it wish I had seen this video sooner

[@Ka_Gg]

Thanks! This had a lot of useful info!

[@MrJoshap]

Absolutely terrific video

[@Devo1987]

Nice video A+++ do you have links for all special tools ?

[@baxrok2.]

No links. Just search for Mazda Ford 2.3 timing tools. Easy to find.

[@thadiusawala863]

Hi sir followed ur video on how to do timing on a ford escape 2.3L engine closely, after that when I start it runs for few seconds a red triangle appears and it shuts down.any help what this can be?I got a ford escape hybride 2008 2.3L.thanks

[@wallebo]

All killer, no filler!

[@gertis7420]

great video. thanks for taking the time to explain in detail.

[@baxrok2.]

You're welcome!

[@frankyrivers7418]

Were I can find the valve cover grommets? For 01 Ford ranger 2.3

[@MISTERPATE]

EXCELLENT TUTORIAL ! THANKS SO MUCH !

[@goodtrip4201]

13:01 #2 & #3 cylinders came in contact with the intake valves and put the timing out 180°

[@ericksotoyedianesoto]

Thank you mister Mazda I love this video omg is one of the best master tech videos I ever found Thank you mister😮😮

[@guyaldrich5878]

would this procedure cover the 2.5L in the 2017 ford fusion ?

[@michaelbailey4164]

Question. At 12:45 you turned the crankshaft while the valves in two of the cylinders remained open as the cams weren't yet moving with the crank timing chain. If this is an interference engine, why didn't the pistons hit the two open valve cylinders ?

[@baxrok2.]

@@michaelbailey4164I aligned the cams with the timing tool before starting the video. Then I took the tool out so I could show it. Doing that ahead of time made it easier for me to demonstrate turning the crankshaft.

[@michaelbailey4164]

@@baxrok2. Having the cams locked in place and then turning the free wheeling crank, which is not connected yet should not be possible, as the moving pistons would hit the locked open valves in two of the cylinders. Only when the cams and crank move together in time, should you be able to rotate the engine. Am i wrong or missing something. I am not asking about the timing procedure, which is fantastic and appreciated by the way. Only about the part at 12:45 which makes me question if this is an interference engine or not... Also thanks for replying back. I have been doing some research and many say its a non-interference engine, not a interference one (valve clearance at full open won't hit the piston at "top dead center")

[@baxrok2.]

@@michaelbailey4164 I'll be honest with you, I may have been mistaken. It's been years since I did this. Trying to think back, and seeing that I don't have the cam timing plate installed, I may have put the cams in a position that allowed me to demonstrate the crank turning. You can see as I turn the crank that it does in fact bump the valves a bit. This was a trashed engine, so I did feel comfortable doing that for the sake of the video. Sorry for the confusion! It is in fact an interference engine as I clearly show in the beginning, straight from the Mazda document.

[@michaelbailey4164]

@@baxrok2. Yes i heard those bumps and a slight resistance watching your video. Anyway the Mazda i did worked great. Thanks to your KZbin videos. I just found that curious. Thanks again.

[@carlosmachado8131]

love your explanation!

[@darwinbacani7281]

Thank you very much sir..this is so helpful video..

[@baxrok2.]

Yes, if the timing is a bit off the car will still start and run, but it will run poorly. That is what happened to me. If you have the timing set correctly and the car isn't running right then something else is wrong. Your code P0351 is an ignition fault code so you need to start your diagnosis with that in mind. Good luck!

[@justint.kennerly5780]

Great tutorial brotha.

[@91GT347]

I have an issue of some sort. Lining up the I and E on the cam gears, the grooves on the end of the cams are vertical. Its a 03.5 msp. The number 1 lobes are facing out.

[@gilbertdaquiado3772]

excellent video

[@estebanvalerio49]

Very good video and information help I lot tanks I will fix Mazda mx5 tomorrow.

[@Оприорин]

Спасибо 🙏 Это лучшее видео по теме. Вы лучший !

[@mattnaylor3271]

Is it completely necessary to have those tools other than the rod that shows tdc? If I pull the timing cover and verify that the cams are in the correct position for the #1 cylinder compression stroke then it should in theory be correctly timed yes? I had an issue on my 2006 2.3 fusion where the harmonic balancer aka crank pulley warped like the outside where the serpentine belt sits has separated from the inner part and I believe threw off the timing

[@baxrok2.]

You can check the timing without the tools and see if you're in the ball park. I pretty much did exactly that in one of my other videos. That's how I knew my timing was off. You have three things to check: Get to tdc with the rod in cylinder 1, look at the camshaft slots and lobes for proper position, verify that pulley is on right tooth relative to sensor. Repeat the steps to verify! However, if you're setting the timing, you should use the tools.

[@gregbishop8685]

I'm doing one of these on a Ford 2.3 and I have to replace the intake camshaft sprocket, I took the sprocket off and noticed there is no keyway on the camshaft sprocket as well. How do I know I'm putting the new one on in the correct position?

[@baxrok2.]

Right, the sprocket is pressed on. Since there are no alignment marks you just have to copy the old one and get as close as possible. You can use the timing tool slots on the end of cam as a reference point.

[@mrfixitdellacertifiedfield5376]

There are 3 friction washers on a Mazda cx-7 2.3 liter engine ( on the crankshaft gears ) , 2 frictions washer on the sprockets AND YOU MUST REPLACE EVERY TIME YOU UN LOOSEN. THE SPROCKETS OR REMOVE THE CRANKSHAFT BOLT WHICH ALSO MUST BE REPLACED EVERY TIME YOU REMOVE Pn for Crankshaft bolt LF01-11-406 Pn for Cam gear friction washer L3K9-12-429 Pn for Crankshaft friction washers L3H5-11-407 3 of them are needed

[@mrfixitdellacertifiedfield5376]

The cam sprocket and VVT take the same friction washer

[@baxrok2.]

Excellent! Thanks for the contribution. I take it this is the turbo engine? (It has the split crank sprockets.)

[@mrfixitdellacertifiedfield5376]

@@baxrok2. Yes Thanks 2.3l turbor

[@RichardRLeal]

I need a tool for holding the keyless crankshaft pulley in place on my 2012 ford edge 2.0L. My old keyless crankshaft rubber tore so the outer pulley spin freely from the inner section.

[@baxrok2.]

Try a chain wrench.

[@ferencbalogh9897]

Amazing tutorial,but i have a really important question. So I did on my 1.8 mondeo a full chain replace and when I took it apart I didnt see any diamond/friction washer,and in my set of chain I didnt get any. Is is a problem or thats how my engine works? Im a litlle confused to crank the engine without the washer or not. Thanks for reply.

[@baxrok2.]

My engine didn't come with any washers either. I only put them on because I wanted to. As long as the crankshaft pulley is properly torqued you should be fine.

[@ferencbalogh9897]

@@baxrok2. Thank you sir for the quick answer im feeling safer now.

[@pauldarrigo4395]

Hi, Where did you get the Mazda Service manual and can you share?

[@baxrok2.]

I got the manual from a link on Mazda3Forums.com. It was a long time ago though and I no longer have the link. Go to that site and search for it and I think you'll find it.

[@stargregory6006]

How are the pistons not hitting the valves when he does a full turn?

[@MJC-GSXS750]

These videos are amazing. I will be timing my 2.3 ecoboost soon enough and these helped me alot :) One thing i noticed is where you put you little flag pole in cyl 1 you called it, is actually cyl 4 on my ecoboost engine.

[@RossTheMFBoss]

Cyl1 and cyl4 fire together, meaning they also reach TDC together. But it's been 4 months since you commented, and I imagine you probably knew this anyway.. Just thought I'd chime in. Cheers! 😊

[@LiilTyweezy]

So if I was just to replace the crank sensor on a good working engine it has to be adjusted with the 9th tooth towards that margin on the sensor or can I just replace the sensor without any adjustments and it will still detect the 9th tooth on the pulley to sync during turnover/ or when I crank up the vehicle etc? I would think if I'm just replacing the sensor it's generally plug and pay long as I'm not messing with other timing components and try to get the new sensor in the same exact place as the old one were because no matter what far the crank sensor go it still gonna detect the 9th tooth you just wanna make sure the center margin on it is in the correct position to detect the tooth when it comes past?

[@baxrok2.]

Correct, you can just replace it. However it is important to verify that the gap (distance between the sensor and the pulley) is correct. Prior to removing the old one, measure the gap and then verify the gap is correct on the new replacement. Also, it is very important to make sure that the sensor is centered properly. The sensor mount is slotted to allow some movement. I think that this is done in case the alignment of the ninth tooth is off a bit when the timing is set. So, check the gap and take note of how the old sensor is installed (centered) and replace with the new sensor verifying gap and centering. Good luck! BTW, yes the location of the 9th tooth is constant and is determined by its position during the timing process.

[@bighilbili]

Did a timing cover swap but didn't know how to align my timing sensor until I read about the 9th tooth.I just put it back where I thought it was before I removed it. Is there info on how to put the sensor in the right spot.my car runs fine but seems to search a little at Idle.Thanks for your videos

[@baxrok2.]

With the crank timing tool in place, put the crankshaft against the tool. Put the bolt in the pulley to align it. The 9th tooth of the pulley should be centered in the crankshaft sensor. Adjust sensor if necessary, it's slotted. The air gap between the tooth and sensor should be: Air gap 0.5-1.5 mm {0.02-0.05 in}

[@timbalfe6223]

On 2005 2.3L 5 speed the connector rod bearings were replaced from underneath by removing oil pan cover. AC and oil filter housing disconnected To access #2 and #3 the balance shaft assembly was removed. Crank was rotated both ways to replace #2 and #3 bearings and reassemble connector rods. Engine now sounds more "noisily angry" than with the rod knock that forced initially the bearing replacement. Would this process and outcome require for sure a timing adjustment?

[@timbalfe6223]

BTW - outstanding videos. Thank you!

[@baxrok2.]

@@timbalfe6223 I've seen a guy do that on YT! If you didn't remove/loosen/move the crank pulley or allow the chain/cams to move, then I don't see why the timing would be off. If it ran okay before the bearing replacement then timing should be okay. If it sounds "noisily angry" then I don't think timing is your issue. However, if the timing somehow did become off (a lot), you may be just touching the valves which would make noise, however it would run like absolute shit for sure and I'd think it would be obvious. If the noise is coming from the bottom end then I'd say you need to go back and verify your repair. Pull the plugs and remove the drive belt so you can turn the engine over by hand to see how it feels/sounds. Hopefully, it moves free and you can rule some things out that way. Anyway, the timing is very easy to check if you want to rule it out. I have a video on that. It's painful to watch, as are most of my videos, because it was the first time I ever did it and I was working my way through it in the freezing cold. You can always fast forward through it to get to the good parts. Unfortunately, I'm not familiar enough with the exact way that you replaced the bearings to offer any more useful advice on what could have gone wrong. Let me know what you find and maybe it will help others.

[@timbalfe6223]

@@baxrok2. Timing tools arrive tomorrow so will check that using your videos (thanks!) as guide. Before that will do as you suggest above to trouble shoot. After all done will reply to share lessons/info/insights, if any. Thnx!

[@timbalfe6223]

@@baxrok2. Turns out that it was the balance shaft assembly gears not properly reengaged. So, once that was done, the engine runs well. No knock and no need to adjust the timing. Thank you very much!

[@baxrok2.]

@@timbalfe6223 Well done and congrats!

[@spyplane3979]

WILL this work for my 2.5 v6 mazda mpv 2000?

[@mrbojangles155]

Do you really have to pull the axel out ? They said that replacing the alternator on a 2.3 but I did it without removing the axel just pulled it straight from the top

[@pingpong9656]

Do you have a video where you show how to lift the engine out of the vehicle?

[@baxrok2.]

No, but if it helps, you can take the engine and trans out together.

[@pingpong9656]

@@baxrok2. I'm working on my daughters CX-7 - 2.3L DISI engine just slightly seized up - looking like spun rod bearing at this point - hoping to pull from top, as I don't have a lift. - do you need to remove front bumper and support bars etc, or is it straight up and out job? If the lord has mercy - I may even just try replacing rod bearing from underneath in situ, but I can't imagine getting away with just that.

[@baxrok2.]

@@pingpong9656 Well, in my opinion, if it's the first time you've done it, getting as much out of the way as possible will help with the struggle! I did it on a 3, so probably a much easier job given the lower overall fender height than the CX.

[@ericgomez3057]

Awesome video ty very much sir!!!!!

[@hawkranger1314]

Hi mate, will the car still start if the timing is not perfectly accurate ? Manage to adust the timing but the vehicle seems to shake and noisier than before when started ? also getting p351 error too ?

[@toshmcc7068]

How did u turn the crankshaft with the flathead screwdriver? (From the driver/right side of the engine) u didn't show that very important part in the video. I have a Mazda cx7 2008.

[@baxrok2.]

Pull the starter out and use the screwdriver to turn the flywheel.

[@moparmatt5896]

I like the video but I feel I should point out that you should also keep the oil pump and balance shaft assy in time with the crankshaft so as to not end up with a vibration

[@undaya]

Had to reconfigure four port heater valve. Purchased two after market, both leaked.