How to Move Darts & Create Princess Seams (Pattern Making Tutorial)

[@sbaumgartner9848]

Zoe, as others have said, this is the most clear explanation of how to create an armhole princess seam that I've seen. I now have far more confidence in pattern making and fitting this kind of princess seam. Thank you so much!

[@vickikay54]

I recently purchased the Helen Joseph Armstrong book, "Pattern making for Fashion Design". It is a very good book, but your video makes it crystal clear to someone, ie, me, who has no knowledge at all with pattern making. In fact, I wish I had seen this before I bought the book. You have taken a complicated process and totally simplified and de mysterfied it for me.

[@graceyhitchcock4013]

Thank you, this was the absolute best treatment of the subject I have seen. You treat the subject in totality.

[@marinadi532]

I like that you add 1/2” ease on the side piece of the princess seam. Must give it a try since I’ve never done that before (the 1/2” ease thing) n also no tutorial like this so far.

[@roxannelopez]

Hope you are feeling better real soon!! What a trooper for making the video even though you aren't feeling your best. Thank you - your information is so appreciated!

[@zoehongteaches]

Thanks and you're welcome!

[@kingagabrielson4372]

Echoed! Very inspiring, thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@mohammedrahman1915]

I am making a dress for my daughter and unfortunately cannot afford the Simplicity pattern to make it simple for myself. However, I consider that a blessing in disguise as my daughter got to observe my hard work. To help me with this, I pulled out a swimsuit pattern that I had used to make one for her mom for our HI trip. I am using the swimsuit bodice front and side to create the bodice front of her dress. During this process I learned the name of the seam is "princess seam." Making my long story short, I told her that I wished to simply put darts for the bodice/Apex shaping and would rather not used the "princess" seam. She saw me working with simple fabric to figure out the darts and found your video and sent it to me. Wow! This is what I needed. The sewing language is foreign to me because I grew up in another country and professionally I am an educator but your video made it simple enough for me to get the dress made without any further delay. ❤

[@terrylove9709]

Hi Zoe. I'm a beginner when it comes to dart manipulation. I would love to be able to move a dart to create new styles in a bodice. Thanks for this video I will be studying it over and over again until I've mastered dart manipulation.

[@raajcprem]

Nice tutorial thanks. I worked in NY 1400.Broadway. Quality Dept. I am an Indian I have many American friends from garments industry. I want to learn a lot from you. Thanks a lot Prem

[@paulai9645]

Zoe, Very easy to understand. Thank you. When I first began, I have/had every book you can think of...Fuher, Armstrong, Crawford, McCann, on and on and on......that's what I do. I tend to over complicate things. Thank you for the video! I loved it!

[@brendaeves3236]

This 8s the best, most clear video on darts for a newbie, thank you soo much!

[@moretravel2024]

Thank you so much. Your explanation, your attitude are so amazing. God bless you.

[@curedexclamation]

the devil works hard but Ms Zoe works harder 😆👏👏

[@zoehongteaches]

Hahahahahahahahaha~

[@DeeDee_Stands_On_Business]

On point, as usual! Love from a NY refugee (living and starting a plus size swim wear line in Kentucky) lol

[@zoehongteaches]

Your line sounds dope! I hope you'll have some styles with sleeves. I'm top heavy and I like wearing rash guards, especially for snorkeling! Good luck!

[@maylam27]

This is so useful because we're currently doing online class due to the lock down and I don't understand very well online lessons

[@TheMisskaylastone]

I came across your video while I needed a little refresher and you explained things so much easier and faster then my teacher does. I realized I’ve been doing things the longer way lol. I’m so glad I watched your video 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

[@thegreenpincushion510]

Much appreciation for an extremely helpful and informative video. This really helped me visualize how/why darts operate and the opportunities to manipulate them. Sending healing vibes for your Bell’s Palsy. I’ve had BPs twice - once in law school (some 30 years ago) and late 2017 - after several family members stayed with us for an extended time. I know Bell’s Palsy is viral in nature, but I’m convinced stress can cause it to flare up. Get well soon!!

[@zoehongteaches]

I'm sure stress plays into pretty much everything. It's like salt--emphasizes whatever else is going on. Ha. Thank you and I'm glad you found this video helpful!

[@VcassCsoto]

I learned I’m not at this level lol. I understood darts and then got confused and then there was extra fabric for boobage and I got lost but I know ur a badass teacher so I just need simple training until my zpd moves.

[@zoehongteaches]

Extra fabric for boobage = bust ease? Yeah, you'll want some to cup the breast. Watch my Answering Your Garment Construction Questions video, I sew up a princess seam with ease and that might help you picture it.

[@momzilla9491]

Hi Zoe, I really enjoyed this lesson. Thanks muchly! I have some blouses that are a little too roomy, and thought I might just try to make them into a Princess Seam. Thanks for mentioning that your friend has a glass table that she lights from underneath. I am about to take over a small space in the apartment with really poor lighting, as a sewing room. Now I know what type of table to get! Brilliant!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@madelinegrudens]

This was a great refresher course and so perfectly clear and concise! Since I'm just seeing it now, I'm so glad you're better... That's scary what you must have gone through. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge with us!!!! You're such a great instructor... 🤩🤩🤩🤩🤩

[@only1shanii91]

I just learned how to make a basic bodice block for the first time ever the 1 with the 2 basic darts waist & bust seam & it took me 2 days to figure it out as I went along with another KZbin tutorial video, today I ran across your video & it’s like a whole new world has been revealed 🪄 ✨ lol thank you so much you’re awesome I now have a waay much better understanding. Look out world!! the next biggest fashion designer is in the making lol

[@fionae6399]

great explanation of the apex and darts. this is a video to hit "save" on ❤️

[@lauravaleria]

Hi! can you please make videos to start learning pattermaking from scratch? literally for dummies. Or is not necessary

[@emmajackson]

Thanks Zoe for this video - great to see how you do the princess seam and add the ease 😀 Hope you are feeling better. My mum had Bell’s and it just took time x

[@zoehongteaches]

You're welcome and thank you!

[@97ann73]

This channel is such a gem! So in depth and insightful.

[@jazminevillegas6800]

I got lost at the ease part, never heard of it. I've been sowing for a couple of years but I've always done it with patterns. My goal is to be able to create patterns of my own

[@katrinainthejungle]

Thanks for the all the videos Zoe! I really enjoy watching all of them because I love your style, it’s all very visually interesting, and it’s full of information. I sew a small amount of my clothes and I often alter a pattern I’ve bought or create a pattern based off clothing I have. Your videos have helped me and inspire me ❤️

[@zoehongteaches]

You're welcome!

[@deanalovessewn6117]

Hope you feel better soon, Zoe!!!! Thanks for video, so helpful....

[@zoehongteaches]

Thank you and you're welcome!

[@evafdlh2637]

Get well really soon Zoe!! and thanks for the video

[@zoehongteaches]

Thank you and you're welcome!

[@madhu9101]

Hi Zoe, I'm self learning sewing and pattern making. Your videos are very helpful. Please make few videos on how to make different types of patterns. It will be very helpful.

[@sanjayshegokar684]

i learn more here than i did in fashion college

[@jynnychian6340]

Totally can relate

[@lmclrain]

college name?

[@joannfagen4457]

Love your excellent instruction, and your personality is greatly admired.

[@aminahbenhossenally6653]

Thank you. The explanation was very detailed.I have learned quite a lot of things in this demonstration.

[@aparnavasanth8372]

Hi Zoe. I loved this video on princess seam. do u have one for making a basic bodice?

[@wilhelminatetteh7246]

Thanks Zoe💓💓💓💓💓 Love From Ghana

[@zoehongteaches]

You're welcome!

[@KeluargaHatiIlahi]

May I ask what about the dart on the shoulder on the muslin, unexplained well..😬😬. How we turn into a fabric then ..

[@ZacharyBlaze]

I hope you already feel better. 💙💚❤💜💛 Pattern cutting is my thing and I'm so good at it. Now I want to try this TR pattern cutting by Shingo Sato. His techniques are absolutely brilliant. You are impressive Zoe. Big ups!

[@carolina.Flo.4]

You’re awesome! Thanks for the detailed and easy to follow tutorials 🙌🏽

[@lisalisa20907]

My vest pattern has vexed me! Thank you!

[@losbrooklyn8861]

Feel better Zoe! Thanks again for another informative video!

[@zoehongteaches]

Thanks and you're welcome!

[@Kartsie]

You blew my mind. Thank you sooooo much for this video! I hope you get better soon!

[@terrylove9709]

Hi Zoe. Love this video it really brought a lot of insight for doing princess seams with dart manipulation.Thank You. I love all your videos and your funny as hell. peace

[@zoehongteaches]

Thanks!

[@ywleu8315]

Hi, Zoe, I am self-learning sewing and fashion design, I think your videos are really useful to me ^^. Hope you can upload more videos like this one. Love u ❤.

[@joshuadaniel8456]

I would love to see a video on market research

[@dinhly9236]

Hi Zoe, thank you for the video! Very informative and on point! Love it! Just a question... how do we sew the 2 parts together with the difference in length when the ease is there? Thank you in advance!

[@sorayachaniifaa2104]

I'm wondering this

[@yarahassan4084]

Thank you sooooo much. You're a life saver. ❤️

[@rosaelinav8036]

Thank you so much, it’s explained! 💖💖💖

[@j3nnif3r1589]

Can you do a video where you combine two darts into one? As in making one waist dart from where there are two waist darts. Thank you! Love your clarity and explanations. 💜

[@Bebe-de6hk]

Thanks for this video. Where would you add the the ease for the waist? At the side seam or the center front? Also how much ease would u add to the across back of a princess seam

[@DailyRaH]

Thank you so much this was so useful, please do more of pattern making videos and please a little info about sizing standards? Like if your designing a collection how do you figure what sizes you should aim for?

[@zoehongteaches]

You cater to your customer. If your customer is older, they prefer slightly larger. Are you doing a line for tall men? Are you doing a line for very short women? etc etc.

[@SarahHafley]

Took a flat patterning class in college a million years ago and I am also an over taper.

[@sisi-mov]

Thank you SO MUCH for this video. I learned how to move darts last year, but sometimes I still have doubts on how to do it properly. This video helped me a lot since I'm currently doing the patterns for my next mini collection and I can't ruin anything because my grade depends on it. I realized I did a french dart wrong because I made it come out of the waist corner D: Also, the princess seam part helped me even more because my teacher told me I had to do that in a garment, and I have never ever drawn a pattern for that and even less sewn something like that. Hope you feel better soon!

[@zoehongteaches]

You're welcome and thank you!

[@rhysduross]

Hiya Zoe, thanks for doing this video however not to sure about some things: one, would the pivoting dart method work with this to make the princess seam? and two, how would you make the princess seam on the back since not too sure where my apex point is and how I would go about moving the dart via pivoting. Thanks so much love! xx

[@gratiaagbadi2668]

Hi.Thanks for the video. I have a question on the princess darting.is it possible to draw the curve around the true bust point and cut through without introducing an extra sheet?thanks

[@poojachouhan820]

Thank you so much for this video, it is very helpful for me. zoe please suggest the best pattern making book ......

[@carolhammond9624]

Thank you so very much for this video, Zoe! This is just what I needed!

[@gkalu6176]

Yaaaaayyy...thank you Zoe this is so timely.

[@zoehongteaches]

You're welcome!

[@genericname6669]

Love love love this.

[@plg129]

Amazing!! Thank you this is exactly what I needed!

[@anitahaynes6171]

Thanks from a home sewer.

[@drilonakorca1331]

Hello Zoe, first of all you're incredible and thank you for all the information given. I wanted to ask you if u have any book recommendations on PATTERN MAKING and SEWING??❤️

[@zoehongteaches]

My book recs are at amazon.com/shop/zoehong

[@nutella9446]

Hi! Can you please do more advanced dart manipulation techniques to add more interesting lines to the design, that would be super helpful and it cant be found anywhere, thank you for your amazing work 😘

[@zoehongteaches]

No, because the process is the same.

[@ronnamatlin1691]

Zoe thanks for such a clear demo. I have a pattern with a lovely fit but it has a princess armhole seam. I would like to transfer the princess seam to a side bust dart and am having trouble getting it right. Any tips? There doesn't seem to be much on going back to darts.

[@zoehongteaches]

Do the opposite of the video. Close the ease, attach the 2 pieces at the apex, cut open a line for the side bust dart, close up the space at the armhole to open up the side bust dart.

[@ronnamatlin1691]

@@zoehongteaches thanks for getting back to me. I will try. I think the ease is throwing me off.

[@ckim5134]

Great video. Very detailed. I like it.

[@crazywoollady9325]

A friend of mine had bells palsy when she was pregnant with her second child. It was scary, but didn't last long. She was mostly "better" after a couple weeks. I say "better" like that cuz she was still cute af anyway and I'm sure you are too!

[@zoehongteaches]

Thank you!

[@grannysvlog1610]

how will i make that half inchon the apex? or how will I sew it.. thank you I hope you make a demo on how to sew it . because when i do the it will be gathered... oh too hard

[@MarnoPitout]

Aunt you are so good ❤❤❤❤💖💖💖💖💖💖

[@nooralhaddad381]

Love your videos 💕 I’m learning a lot Keep it up 👍🏽

[@jaxn1221]

Very helpful!

[@balduvinaarmas8571]

Excellent. Thanks.for your information.

[@glozzy5923]

Ma'am when we keep the side dart, should we add that dart inches for body length? Please reply ma'am.

[@pegclose3082]

Excellent, thank you

[@barbquilting]

This is really, really useful for me ...Thank you very 😊❤

[@roselynferreira6255]

Zoe, you're the bomb! 😘 thank you for sharing this!

[@gigiyun9802]

You are great teacher,thanks!

[@laurietrayers]

And she doesn’t miss a beat. Take care of yourself, get well soon!

[@zoehongteaches]

Thank you!

[@matammatamgi2556]

Hello mem can i ask qusntn..... I love ur method... I wnt to ask wht i wnt to knw......

[@matammatamgi2556]

I m from north east india i can increse knwled to see ur vdio mem...

[@mariarojas9917]

When you do a slopper do you put seam allowance

[@zoehongteaches]

Slopers have seam allowance. Blocks are slopers with seam allowance.

[@tleemailz]

Do you have a video for how to make the bodice block?

[@zoehongteaches]

Yes, in my Garment Construction playlist.

[@F-J.]

AWESOME lesson.

[@belovedthread]

Is the size of the ease that you include dependent on one’s bust size?

[@zoehongteaches]

Everything changes with the bust size, the curve, the length of the curve, the ease, etc.

[@peggyriordan9857]

If I don't have a dress form, how do I determine how wide a dart should be? Thank you, I have learned so much from your videos!

[@zoehongteaches]

Measure a body.

[@peggyriordan9857]

@@zoehongteaches I guess I didn't ask the correct question. I have the measurements: High bust 44, Full Bust 46, Band size 40, waist 44. I know the first leg of the dart is horizontal from 1" from the apex to the side seam, but I'm not sure how to determine the placement of the second leg. I hope that makes it more clear. Thank you so much.

[@zoehongteaches]

Ok, so let's say you want something very fitted. The widest part your bodice will be 46, tapering to 44, so that's 2" to spread out between 4 darts, 2 in front, 2 in back.Each dart will be .5 on average. Depending on the body, you might make those darts a little bit bigger in the front or back, but the total dart intake will be 2".

[@zoehongteaches]

And you can adjust those numbers for ease and what style of fit you want but basically how wide you make the bust minus how wide you make the waist, divided by 4.

[@peggyriordan9857]

@@zoehongteaches Thank you so much. That really helped me understand... Plus, thank you for responding to quickly. Not many do, so it is appreciated!

[@violetadominguez6632]

What if the notch that is above the waist at the end is 1/16th of an inch off? What did I do wrong? This is in reference to when you check everything. And you start walking the pattern. You were walking the pattern from the waist to that first notch.

[@visible4808]

Cool video!

[@tohrurikku]

A while back I was reading and trying to figure out how to make a certain pattern using a translated instruction on how to make an outfit and they were saying something about ease. I was so confused and it lead me to here at the time. I did not really understand then but rewatching now I think I have it. Is ease basically adding an amount to the inner breast section that is basically gathered in as you are sewing so it creates more of a curve?

[@zoehongteaches]

The ease/gather cups the fabric along the curve, and thus wraps the fabric around the outer half of the breast (closer to the arm).

[@normarubio4254]

Recupérate pronto...saludos desde Mexicali, Baja California .. México

[@vanityshop5155]

Is it ok if the CF panel is where the ease lays? I'm trying to draft an armhole princess seam for a very short bodice, that sits right under the bust, & the side panel keeps ending up about a half inch shorter than the CF.

[@zoehongteaches]

No, ease is in the side panel because the ease is supposed to create a slight cupping and if you place that from the front, it will look weird.

[@morougecanada]

Thanks for the video! So do you trace the pattern on oaktag paper after you are done?

[@zoehongteaches]

I staple the pattern onto oaktag and cut it out.

[@morougecanada]

@@zoehongteaches thanks!

[@hydroskellett9577]

How wide should I do the darts at the waist

[@zoehongteaches]

Bust measurement minus waist measurement. Take that measurement and divide by number of darts. Do front and back separately.

[@hydroskellett9577]

@@zoehongteaches thank you very mich

[@meltischler2624]

i dont get how you would sew the ease bit you added if the seams now dont line up on purpose? wont it have a wrinkle there?

[@KaysKoilsnKinks]

What’s the material in this video.

[@maryremar6136]

Awesome.

[@najettediy9877]

فهمت شكرا

[@christinachee7697]

Hi, I wana to know what the size of your bodice pattern in this video you use ? 6 or 8 ? For your experiences in the fashion industry many years , what's the size of the bodice pattern they normally use to create prototypes or sample ? Last question ! What size of the mannequin u will suggest us to use in the US to create draping garment ? I appreciate your video and I am your new subscriber !

[@zoehongteaches]

Industry standard for non-plus size sizing is close to bust waist hip 34-26-36 inches. Your sample size should always be the middle size of your size range.

[@christinachee7697]

Thank you !!

[@donndexx77]

Thankyou very much.

[@janicehan825]

고마워요, 열심히 배울게요.

[@bidadari2syurga]

Thank you for making this video.

[@zoehongteaches]

You're welcome!

[@Mysicalgreenunicorn03]

❤️❤️❤️ I love a cone bra! Cue Robin Williams in Bird Cage... MADONNA MADONNA MADONNA MADONNA

[@zoehongteaches]

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA yesssssssss

[@tarankaur9785]

How to sew the princess line as the curve is not same measurement. The fabric length is not balance., so how do i match it?

[@willettasoares7529]

Why do we need to add seam allowance for darts when you're anyways going to stitch up the dart? Please educate me.

[@ValerieBlanche]

I love this video so much ! Brings so much clarity btw, whats the paper you used for pattern making called ? 💖💖💖

[@zoehongteaches]

It's called dot paper.