how to open a BMW e90 320D M47 DDE/DME/ECU

[@aries6776]

I've just attempted this. The glue is very strong. I used a hot air gun on medium heat. I got the case above the glue to around 60 C and managed to pop it off. I used plastic trim tools to avoid any damage to the board components.

[@sosscs]

thank you, it worked. I finally were able to open the backside

[@pfoxhound]

I did it! Mercedes e320 cdi 2006 om648 ECU.

[@anishmahadeo5073]

Did it work for you? I have an n45 engine with a reoccurring o2 aging error which I'm guessing is to do with the ecu so I'm gonna check it out

[@pfoxhound]

Very helpful!

[@pfoxhound]

Add name Bosch ECU, it will be much more popular.

[@mehboobalam6956]

Brother if you pay attention on your recording at 1:06,the game over, mine with other fellows like to know,how to open the lid(which is of course glued with a strong sealant)and normal operation is very hard and can damage the outer cover as well.but it seems that you do not want to spread the knowledge to rest of world. your reply is awaited

[@funitoo]

I did not remove the lid myself, it was done by people who tried to fix that CPU. As you can see the white strip of heat-sink glue is on one side. I suggest you start prying on the opposite side. The lid should not be glued in (only that white strip). Maybe a little of glue holding it in place near the top. Lift the side opposite from that big strip of glue and just keep slowly lifting while holding down the circuit board with the fingers of the other hand. That white glue should just rip apart.

[@mehboobalam6956]

@@funitoo thanks for your kind suggestion. Brother this is a bit tough game to open the cover with out getting ECU damaged. Because it is property of customer. Again my request is at same ace,that is there any suitable way to open the outer lid.

[@funitoo]

@@mehboobalam6956 sorry I can't help you, I didn't open the lid myself. I did remove the circuit board myself, it was glued in too, I just used force to slowly pull it out. It didn't break but I suppose it could have.

[@jamesgolynski2289]

did it work after? thanks for the video

[@funitoo]

Two "legs" on one of the microchips had corroded so much there was nothing left of them. I'm surprised it had worked that long. But if I had known about the problem and addressed it sooner then there is no reason why it wouldn't. I tried to finds a replacement microchip for re-soldering but nothing came up on Google. So I just replaced the whole ECU.

[@jamesgolynski2289]

Tad Ka how much did you pay it in the end? Do you still have the old ECU? Reason I ask is... Mines the same with the same ECU. I've cleaned it up but I am damn sure a zero-ohm resistor has come away.... I need a close up pic of the bottom right corner when you take the first cover off... Can you help? Many thanks. Epic video.

[@funitoo]

I should be able to. Let me dig it out. Oh, I paid about £700 for a refurbished ECU plus I asked for a remap which was another £200.

[@funitoo]

Jay Gee here it is, let me know if you need a different angle or something. i.imgur.com/rCk2SRt.jpg

[@jamesgolynski2289]

Tad Ka thanks. I tried to repair and it went tits up. Did BWChipTune do it for you? £700 is very steep for me. Your ECU doesn't look bad mine was all corroded with parts missing and it only just showed symptoms of none start.

[@scotthind5637]

Wtf... The back cover was removed by someone else and you don't know how they did it? What a waste of my time

[@funitoo]

good point, I'd say start prying at the edge which is on the opposite side from that white strip of glue. That way you should get a bit of leverage to make it easier.

[@scotthind5637]

@@funitoo to be honest mate, I just wanted to know if there was any sealer on the inside around the unit? I knew there would be the white heat sink compound. Cheers for getting back though, take care