How to paint bike parts the cheap and easy way!

[@BermPeakExpress]

I love the tips! Keep ‘em coming and we’ll use them on Flip Bike!

[@nate7917]

that mask is not for paint fumes\

[@topseller17]

Thanks Kevin! Great job with the camera. Too bad mr cool dude Seth doesn’t really respond

[@CalebBoender]

My grandpa used to work in a body shop like 50yrs ago and he painted cars without a respirator or any protection whatsoever. One day he was painting a blue car ( I don’t remember what kind of car) but he had a doctors appointment that same day. When the doctor looked in his nose, he was horrified by all the blue inside his nose!

[@MichaelRei99]

Great tips definitely going to be handy.

[@rider573]

My tip: oven cleaner takes off anodizing. I had some red bars I didn't like. Used the full strength oven cleaner and got them to raw aluminum.

[@ch_chone]

FYI: a really good middle ground between "automotive paint in a can" and "cheap hardware store rustoleum paint" is DupliColor Engine Enamel. It's good to higher temperatures than standard paint so you can paint things like the valve cover of your car or whatever if you want, but it lays out really nice, is super easy to get that last wet gloss layer, and the can has that nicer nozzle on it. Additionally, it hardens up nicely and is durable for years as long as you prep the surface. It's also like $6/can rather than the $12/can for the automotive color matched stuff.

[@YOEL_44]

But does it work on aluminum?

[@coolcycles]

...wow, you must have a really hot bike!

[@jackolson8775]

1000% Solid tip. LOVE the engine enamel. Painted my truck rims with them. 2 years later, still perfect.

[@EvansGaming375]

Use regular duplicolor enamel paint instead of the engine paint if you plan on repainting at some point because it wall take ages to sand off the engine paint by hand…

[@Timemachine74]

Duplicolor employee 👆right there

[@repapeti98]

What I like most about this channel is he isn't afraid to show his screw-ups.

[@B0B0LlN00]

If you payed attention over the years you would change your mind real quick.

[@tobbyraymond2959]

@@B0B0LlN00 he’s probably not a channel og

[@Lughnerson]

Probably shows a screw up intentionally to show us how to fix after we do so it accidentally.

[@Bigkcoc]

When Seth was speaking his own language about the paint expert. Could not stop laughing!

[@dthughes4]

As an automotive painter with nearly 20 years of experience, what you covered in this video is basically all the same things I would’ve gone over. With a few other deatails. Such as: to help prevent the spattering out of the rattle bomb can, tip can upside down and spray for a second at the end of use to clean out the nozzle. Great job!

[@weareallbeingwatched4602]

And also shake the can ridiculously thoroughly to make sure that you don't get a lump of pigment in the nozzle causing splatter/spitting

[@darkshadowsx5949]

as a professional youtube commenter with over 399 years of experience no one pays attention to experience comments.

[@randabuffer6562]

@@darkshadowsx5949 😂😂😂😂

[@Xfacehack]

Since you have a lot of experience, what are you opinion on powder coat or cerakote? I personally been painting lots of stuff but i always find myself questioning after all that time and effort i should of just invested or had someone do a powder coat/cerakote depending on application

[@andthefunkybunch1466]

F

[@TypicalSwede]

A good tip is to use soft earplugs in holes you don't want the spray to get into :)

[@thebr0wnhornet]

Or a big ol dab of bike grease

[@PabzRoz]

genius

[@abcdefgh1]

Thanks for the tip. My ears now have red over-spray.

[@JB50713]

Oh that's smart

[@dsp4392]

TODO: Insert joke about plugs, grease, holes and tips.

[@arichardofalltrades6770]

A tip I got that seems to get the spray on nicer, especially on bigger projects like the frame, is to heat the can up in some warm water before spraying. The can usually says max temp is 125F, so no warmer than that. Also, the next coat as the part is just tacky gives a chemical bond, which is much more durable. Thanks for the great content!

[@dinissantos3113]

yap, you can stick the can in a glass of warm water

[@jasonpapetti7981]

Having the parts warn too will really help the paint stick so you can put a heavier coat on it

[@BenNawrath]

All this also helps paint on cold days. Keep the part and the paint inside overnight, or warm them up, and you can still get good paint on a 40 degree day. Especially if you have a small heater like that to help it dry. Baking small parts in a toaster oven works well too

[@jamieswanson4450]

I do something similar I use my heat gun but I'm super careful for oblivious reasons

[@ericcartmansstrengthandpow5960]

Ok I have my can of spray paint in the microwave on high warming up. It is making lots of strange noises and there appears to be a light show. I'm not sure what the next step is so I'm going to sand blast the can as soon as I remove it from the microwave. Will report back.

[@jonathanhcarlson]

Comment about safety: if spaying paint with solvent or hardener, you'll want a respirator with organic vapor cartridges. The particulate mask you were wearing is primarily for dust while sanding.

[@dirrology]

Hope he sees dis

[@Cushingura]

This should be the top comment.

[@JohnPilling25]

Yes, buy a proper 3M respirator and voc cartridges. The solvents in paint will dissolve the fatty connective tissues holding you lungs together just the same way that the styrene in fibreglass resin does. Xylene, Toluene, Benzene, Styrene - all awful - please use a proper voc cartridge filter for your health. The 2 part epoxy sprays are even worse; the diamine hardener is a serious carcinogen and breathing that Vapor will result in fine droplets of epoxy hardening in your lungs. Also the voc cartridges need changing regularly, they don’t last forever.

[@DavidFoundCo]

Yep, I cringed when he tried to make that dust mask look like the right safety lol

[@JB50713]

You're totally correct but most people watching this video will paint a few parts here and there and have the common sense to do it outside. Or in a well ventilated area. It's not like they're painting everyday.

[@robinrai4973]

After recently raw-ing my bike frame I can say I have the utmost respect for those who have the patience to regularly sand and deal with paint

[@thirdeyesurvivor3886]

Veteran sander here, I’ve rawed my frame once and painted about 5 frames and tons of other parts and still haven’t mastered it.

[@topseller17]

Pro painter here (RSI painting NJ) this is all great stuff! Really not much to add other than when doing something large like a full frame it’s often suggested to alllow for 24 hour cute times between coats. In fact, the paint companies will never admit this but really good curing takes a few days to weeks. I wonder how that duplicolor stuff works with the added hardener. I’ll have to try that soon! Great work

[@Cushingura]

As a prfessional you should really add: ALLWAYS use propper masks that protect your lungs from the fumes. On the other hand, when I worked in the states I noticed, they mostly don't take safety protection that seriously. As an annoying german kraut, I can't resist the urge to adress that safety issues.

[@singletona082]

@@Cushingura As a USican, it's largely because we have a lot of masculine insecurity so must be macho and not do the 'sissy' thing like 'oh grab proper masking and gear to prevent the paint from giving your lungs turbo cancer or something.'

[@AndrewGarneau]

For multiple coats of the same colour would you still recommend waiting the 24h or do you recommend only waiting around that long between priming/paint/clear?

[@BermPeakExpress]

I’m glad you mentioned this because I’ve had a few jobs REALLY seem to strengthen after a few weeks and was wondering what I was doing wrong on a few recent jobs that seemed “soft”. With the cooler weather, it probably just needs time.

[@Derkenblosh2]

@@BermPeakExpress baking parts makes a huge difference. i used a trash can + space heater to cure the paint on my wife's DB Release (18hour bake time @ 250*f)

[@laszlobacs9347]

FYI. In certain situations with items difficult to access for masking areas that you don't want to paint you can use a layer of grease which will be easily removed after the paint is fully cured. Great video as always.

[@jimmystephenson5675]

using a q-tip with a little vaseline can prevent paint from sticking to hard to reach places you can't tape off, rubbing alcohol on another q-tip will remove it when paint is dry....love this channel and thank you for inspiring so many

[@jackolson8775]

vaseline is an excellent "masking agent". smear it on whatever you want unpainted. Just make sure the paint is 100% dry before removing the vaseline or you'll have a big ol mess.

[@MudBucketGaming]

Pro tip If you get a drip/run in the paint you can use a piece of masking tape and dab the drip off . Then just add a second coat of paint. Hope this helps somebody out there ! Keep riding !

[@tonyhruzek4250]

A great DIY for many things is Nail Polish. It comes in just about every color under the sun. Great fir touching up dings/chips and it is also a great thread locker. Much less expensive than Loctite!

[@jackolson8775]

another solid tip!! Got a sparkly bass boat ? Good luck finding a paint match for that ! Nail polish is perfect for scratches and small fixes !

[@simonpowell2559]

Good tip thanks.

[@roni2671]

Get blue just so you can use it as loctite 😂

[@justintb96]

I use nail polish instead of cable crimps! Just dip the end of the cable in and you don't ever have to take crimps off and it looks way cleaner

[@wasifzihan4662]

I actually Painted my bike, myself. It turned out so good people actually wanted to buy that for more than the actual price (i painted it in a very capable bikes design) people actually thought it was the better bike!!!

[@uraniumjoe]

Do you have a KZbin video on your bike? Would love to see it.

[@wasifzihan4662]

@@uraniumjoe No I dont have a video... Sorry about that 🥶😇 I can try to post some photos or videos if you like... but it would be a very short one, because of almost few to no documentation.

[@mumenraider]

@@wasifzihan4662 do that . a friend of mine had also done the same it was a old steel Bianchi frame.

[@db1232]

From throwing bikes in the ocean to using a paint booth in a bike castle. What a wild ride!

[@markonikolic1386]

The channel has really come a long way from Florida days. I love it when Seth does his little obnoxious stunts and hacks that bring memories back.

[@timmyfranks4087]

I can’t even stress how much this is a tutorial

[@gaigepentell7854]

I love these kind of videos from Seth, I love how he leaves in his mistakes and shows you how to fix any common mistakes, great work Seth!

[@ghjgjihjgjyrdrgydsgr137]

One tip to save frustration: I did find that spray paints, including automotive rattle can paints, can take weeks to fully harden. It probably varies with the humidity and temperature of your location. If you put newly painted parts on your bike soon after the paint has dried and find that the paint chips too easily, try leaving them for a month and you will hopefully find the finish to be good and tough. This worked for me with Halfords automotive spray cans.

[@lukem7203]

My experience has been the same. A few weeks for most paint to really harden up. I'm sure the heat gun trick does help though. If you have an old toaster oven you can bake the small parts at 200f for an hour or so too. Also for rust oleum users be careful with the recoat times. Second coat within an hour or wait a full 2 or 3 days for the second coat or you're pretty much guaranteed to have wrinkles and bubbling in the finish. Definitely read the can and do what it says.

[@dklyne]

I would say that totally depends on temperature. In northern Tasmania where l live it’s currently 20-24° during the day. I restore cars and l have painted load’s of parts the last week outside and everything is touch dry in about 3-5 minutes and full cured in and hour. Just engine parts and suspension parts with duplicolour spray cans. And cheap black enamel in a tin. Of course not car panels. I the colder winter months coming soon l just run a heater in the shed and it dries just as fast. One tip is if you want paint to dry really fast then use a matte colour paint. They generally dry way faster then gloss paints, but otherwise a heater is good.

[@energ8t]

Yeah, rather than simply wait… use heat lamps, an oven, or put a space heater in a maintenance closet or shed to heat the whole space up. This vastly speeds up the curing process. And yes… wrinkling is VERY frustrating. Spraying too much paint, generally speaking, is a bad idea. Runs, drips (and wrinkles if re-coated too soon between coats) and a very extended dry time are usually the result. From my experience, you can clear coat gradually, wet-sanding between coats with up to 2000 for a very smooth gloss finish. Just don’t do super thiccc coats for the earlier coats. The final coat can be a decent smooth spray, but the preceding coats will be thick enough to give the gloss you want without drenching it and risking runs/drips. For what it’s worth my painting experience was in spray booths in a model making studio for industrial design prototypes. You can do a lot with spray cans.

[@sdy0108]

I have been painting with spray cans for years and mainly on bikes and bike parts, and let me just say amazing tutorial, absolutely perfect for beginners and those mistakes are ones everyone’s made or will make somewhere along the line. As far as what paint I use I like rustolium, relatively cheap and tons of colors, also engine enamel is great because it drys fast and it’s super durable. Just a quick tip, when you first start painting your part start with a super light coat just to get the original paint to accept the paint, I have seen it happen when someone will do a super heavy coat and it will orange peel like crazy or blotch and run.

[@diegodosanjos6049]

I don't want to paint parts of my bike, yet, I watched the whole video. You are awesome, Seth. Tip: never paint close to vehicles because the paint can stick into them. You won't be able to see it, but you will feel.

[@manziladollion6782]

I’M HUMBLE AND 👆🏻👆🏻👆🏻APPRECIATE OF ALL YOU’VE DONE FOR MY SON SCHOOL BILLS THIS FLIPS REALLY GOES A LONG WAY YOU’RE THE BEST

[@oliverbrunt1]

Great tip I found once is to using spongey ear plugs to squish into threads - an absolute game changer!

[@Sixbillion1]

i paint cars by trade, and what youve done here is totally great. i do the same stuff when i paint small parts at home. its not like painting an audi here... nicely done video and nice pro tip on waiting for the color coats to dry, solvent pop will indeed happen if you clear to soon

[@jbratt]

I have a friend that professionally paints. He tells me about how great the rattle can paint is now. The results can be amazing.

[@fintutorials56]

@@jbratt Yeah, with rattle cans there aren't as many variables to figure out as with paint guns. At least with smaller parts, i wouldn't even bother to set up a paint gun or airbrush because I can get the same funish with just some spray paint and some patience. Gotta love the stuff

[@manziladollion6782]

I’M HUMBLE AND 👆🏻👆🏻👆🏻APPRECIATE OF ALL YOU’VE DONE FOR MY SON SCHOOL BILLS THIS FLIPS REALLY GOES A LONG WAY YOU’RE THE BEST

[@TheTacoSven]

me being a painter prepper at a body shop still watching 10 min of seth teaching me how to paint

[@Ishowsk1ll]

You make my day I getting a full suspension bike next year I’ve been asking my dad since last year but I’m finally getting it next year my dads the best 💯😄

[@stevenconnor4221]

Also for aluminium if your sanding back to base metal, you want to apply etching primer that chemically etches into the aluminium and gives you a nice base coat to work from easily available from where you got your paint. What you done and there is nothing wrong with it is you abraded the etched and painted surface that gives a mechanical area for the paint to take hold. That is ok for steel, but after a while on aluminium it will flake off.

[@DatzBunz]

I use these methods to paint all sorts of stuff. Mainly PC Cases and metal parts to things as well. I usually use a coat or two of self etching primer on things I want to look amazing after the sanding/cleaning step. Yes most paints have primer in them but the self etching seems to work great for satins I have tried. (Mainly Rustoleum 2 in 1/ and Krylon Fusion) I always hit the paint can from 8 to 12 inch distance with the low heat setting on the heat gun moving around the can. Once the can feels warm shake the can until the paint is mixed up and it feels cold again. I do this for a good 30 or so seconds and it really makes the paint flow smooth. Just be carefull not to heat it crazy hot or in one spot for longer than a few seconds. Works much better than the hot water trick. Just have to be smart not to heat it crazy hot as its under pressure and can easily explode if you go crazy with the heat. Just slightly warming it to get a good flow. I also heat up the item before spraying with the heat gun and after with the heat gun to help cure and off-gas. I want to spray a cheap frame I have for my main bike badly with tougher paint so I might try the duplicolor engine enamel someone was saying below. I want like a matte or satin black on it so bad. Can't afford a good frame atm and stuck with an old iron horse one but changed out about every other part through the years to have it be an insane bike now.

[@singletona082]

Too many people sleep on the old iron. yes they're heavy as hell, but they're solid and the inherent flexing in steel gives a less stiff ride. Carbon and Aluminum have their places yes, and buy what you want, but if steel is what you have? Nothing wrong there. Luck to you on the rattlecan adventure.

[@omareh99]

Quick tip, if you actually want the paint to last and prevent it from chipping I recommend using a primer before the top coat. Once that's fully hardened spray your top coat and it will come out much smoother and will adhere better to the part. After that top it with a coat of clear and it'll look mint.

[@nobody_noob2694]

so happy your uploading regularly

[@zachkinnear6057]

Seth really always finds a way to make something as simple as painting bike parts hilarious.

[@manziladollion6782]

I’M HUMBLE AND 👆🏻👆🏻👆🏻APPRECIATE OF ALL YOU’VE DONE FOR MY SON SCHOOL BILLS THIS FLIPS REALLY GOES A LONG WAY YOU’RE THE BEST

[@danz9268]

Perfect, I'm planning to repaint my bike with spray paint tommorow.

[@seansengpiel8156]

i love how you explain every detail, even things that might seem like common sense to most people without being demeaning

[@cuthbirdd4471]

Finally! a realistic and informative spray painting tutorial!

[@sounakghosh9335]

so useful, and the last one "tell me how to do it cheaper" was actually brilliant.

[@pyrobabyyoda]

I guess now we get to see what the sand blaster and pain tent is for

[@manziladollion6782]

I’M HUMBLE AND 👆🏻👆🏻👆🏻APPRECIATE OF ALL YOU’VE DONE FOR MY SON SCHOOL BILLS THIS FLIPS REALLY GOES A LONG WAY YOU’RE THE BEST

[@RemoteChicken12]

Cant really fauly anything that Seth has said here, this is very good video for people who are trying to start out. However coming from the automotive paint industry i do have some tips. Using a red/maroon scotch brite in place of the 400grit sandpaper is a really good alternative if the part does not have chipping paint, it takes the shine off while keeping most of the old paint still there, and its abit fluffier than sandpaper so it makes it easier to get into hard to reach places, I would use wax & grease remover over rubbing alcohol especially if you see yourself painting often. Tac cloth before first coat only, if you do it between coats you risk damaging the finish. when painting raise the part off where your painting abit and put water down, this will help catch dust flying around as instead of getting airborne off the floor and sticking to whatever your painting. And lastly if you drop whatever your painting often and ruin the finish instead of waiting for it to dry and sanding it back to start again you can use paint thinners (nail polish remover might work but never tried it) to instantly wipe off the new paint and re-prep your item and try again.

[@Sixbillion1]

a simple gray scuff pad from 3m will be easier to sand with and easier to get in tough spots.

[@manziladollion6782]

I’M HUMBLE AND 👆🏻👆🏻👆🏻APPRECIATE OF ALL YOU’VE DONE FOR MY SON SCHOOL BILLS THIS FLIPS REALLY GOES A LONG WAY YOU’RE THE BEST

[@jessehewes7975]

Great info Seth! I have painted a few vehicles and know the basics, you’ve covered them all and well for what you are painting. Thank you!

[@ramy_rides]

Thanks these tips are pretty useful and I can probably use these to get better results.

[@natescholtz]

Congrats on 800k🎉🎉🎉

[@Justkeepshredding]

I love this channel because you are such a normal guy doing such funny and awesome stuff!

[@SKNZ2727]

You get awesome spraygun type attachments for spraycans which really help make the spraying you do feel more natural. Maybe worth a look, I know we get a Rustoleum brand one here in South Africa

[@Rayemckinney]

Great fan❤️ Thanks for watching, make use of the name above,☝️you are among my shortlist winner's ☑️

[@crisdiaz32107]

I’ve been following Seth’s paint method and can say this method works! I also like to use testers paint to touch up small dings.

[@nikolaylatev7222]

I paint bike details just like you do. I have learned this just with practice. The parts look so much better! Last time i spray painted the center of a disk rotor and came out great😅

[@RileyDaRunner]

I have a suggestion: You could paint those plastic valve caps to get custom painted valve caps if you can’t find the right color.

[@sebastianjost]

So you need to find the right colored paint instead. Though that's probably easier and you can use the same paint on other parts and have them color matched perfectly

[@andrewince8824]

@@sebastianjost and you'd have some paint to touch them up and keep them looking fresh AF.

[@creativem0nster579]

When painting plastic you also need an adhesions promoter for it to properly stick. There are certain primers that he’d need to use but that could be a good idea.

[@roni2671]

Buy aluminium valve caps and paint them with light sanding👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼

[@Henryjamesklein]

@@roni2671 aluminum valve caps suck. They just rust and corrode

[@Jontemoto]

Im such a big fan you are the reson i have a track in my back yard i love you

[@pdemartin1]

Nice ! One thing I could propose is to use a 2 parts clear after... like this one ! USC SprayMax 2K...this would last forever and resist bike cleaning very good.

[@chimdegu]

this is the real paint with the hardener not the one seth used.. and i agree with the 2K top coat. once you used it you'll never go back to 1K clear

[@AndrewGarneau]

Yeah a 2k coat seems like the best option for a finish. But you need to take safety and air quality seriously with that stuff, a lot more than just a standard spray can. I would go as far as to not have skin exposed.

[@creativem0nster579]

FYI - Respirators are absolutely required if you spray a 2k clear coat. They will cause permanent damage to your lungs, that N95 in the video wouldn’t protect your lungs. You’d want a full blown cartridge style respirator.

[@newtonsantos_photo963]

Seth, you trully is the right person to teach home painting of bike parts 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 because everything that you showed on this video is exactly what we do & the stuff that goes wrong !!! (Specially using a ultra high tech "Paint Booth" 🙈 - mine is a little bit bigger to avoid spraying alover the backyard 😅😅😅)

[@manziladollion6782]

I’M HUMBLE AND 👆🏻👆🏻👆🏻APPRECIATE OF ALL YOU’VE DONE FOR MY SON SCHOOL BILLS THIS FLIPS REALLY GOES A LONG WAY YOU’RE THE BEST

[@91rattoyota]

When I personally paint parts I spray multiple thin layers, and I let each layer dry and cure completely before I apply the next coat. Same thing goes for the clear coat. Great job on painting those parts Seth!

[@JacobGnarly]

I love Berm Peak. I dont watch a ton but when i do it makes me wanna go do stuff

[@burrellbikes4969]

Thank you! This was a big help. I’m one of the ones who’s been asking for this video.

[@riccochet704]

Honestly, you can use scotchbrite to scuff up a surface for paint prep. Especially if it's anything anodized or previously painted. If it's steel, probably best to use 320-400 grit paper. Really, anything to "mar" the surface. I've painted entire vehicles, and we use 320 as the final. Wet is not really needed. So long as the surface is free of dust and oils after sanding. For small parts you can use an acetone wash. Get you a small glass jar, put some acetone in it and swirl the parts in it. Allow to air dry. It's quick. I always recommend a light coating of primer before paint. Primer adheres to metal better, and paint adheres to primer better. Feel me? Will paint stick to metal? Yes. But not as good as it'll stick to primer. I'm no professional, or a rocket surgeon, just a gear head that also rides bikes.

[@Rayemckinney]

Great fan❤️ Thanks for watching, make use of the name above,☝️you are among my shortlist winner's ☑️

[@harrygardiner7678]

During the summer of the first lockdown me and my friend (he’s my neighbour) we both painted our Bmxs and re vamped them to look ace. Both of us sanding down our frames and then taking full advantage of the sun to get a great finish on our final coats of clear and in the end they looked great and kept us both busy for a week

[@fiveletters]

Try painting a freshly sand-blasted surface with any of the metallic automotive paints and a few coats of clear! The rough surface takes paint really well and the randomized grit pattern creates an almost-3D effect with the metal-flake paints that looks like a high-quality wheel. Clearcoat will make it more durable and give a nice finished look. You can even make a gloss basecoat into a satin one if you topcoat with satin clearcoat. That way you don't have to buy multiple finishes in every color, just a gloss clear and a satin clear for your final step! ALSO!! The blast media you use makes a difference. You can get aggressive media that is even faster and coarser than sand with the coal slag stuff or use walnut shells for something that is very gentle and doesn't take off any of the substrate. Remember that most blast media is friable, so it will become less aggressive the more you use it, so if it's not cutting like it used to, clear out your cabinet and replace the media.

[@manziladollion6782]

I’M HUMBLE AND 👆🏻👆🏻👆🏻APPRECIATE OF ALL YOU’VE DONE FOR MY SON SCHOOL BILLS THIS FLIPS REALLY GOES A LONG WAY YOU’RE THE BEST

[@All_the_bikes_are_cool]

Cool Video... I am doing slightly different way... all preparation the same but paint is: automotive acrylic base + Graffiti acrylic paint "Montana Gold" (Motip group ;) ) + acrylic automotive clear coat (I love satin finished) 🙌🏼 😄

[@dantheman-405]

silicon ear plugs work great to put into threads or places you don't want plant

[@Norththeninja]

painter here. you did fine my man. a tip i would suggest with rattle cans is pick up a cheap plastic snap on spray handle/trigger. the other is make sure your cans arent cold.

[@wattermelon1510]

Good one Seth. Thank you. Happy trails.

[@andreburger2210]

Enjoying all the videos, a few tips from my side, after masking off an item, I would clean it with some alcohol to remove any oil, I would pre heat the item to around 30°C and cure/dry it with a bar/infrared heater and not a blower heater to prevent any dust particles blowing onto the sticky paint (im also not a pro spray painter)

[@Rayemckinney]

Great fan❤️ Thanks for watching, make use of the name above,☝️you are among my shortlist winner's ☑️

[@creativem0nster579]

Another good tip for perfect finishes is to use spray max 2k clear coat. It has a strong UV finish and last for years. It’s essentially the same kinda clear they use on cars but in a can. With that one you absolutely have to have a respirator or you will get permanent damage to your lungs. Standard N95 like you are wearing won’t cut it in this case.

[@creativem0nster579]

Another good tip is to use ear plugs to block off threads. You can cut them up and make them work on fine threads.

[@bluemountainproductions8885]

Congratulations on 800k!!!

[@chrisgille669]

Great tutorial! That’s coming from a 30yr. Automotive painter. Thank you for the videos

[@samchan1277]

Videos never get old!

[@papi_vlad86]

I wanna see more of this paint restoration episodes,especially restoring some old rusty bike frames and parts.😁👍❤️🚲

[@MorryB]

You might want to check out videos by "Old Shovel" here on YT. That's what he does.

[@dylanwalker1848]

Absolutely love your videos Seth

[@louisianamtb8139]

One of Seth's greatest talents is to call out and shame the trolls before they even speak!

[@Adamas_83]

Using grease or vaseline in threaded holes or hard-to-tape inner surfaces works wonders with a little patience during the prep phase. 1: tape, 2: apply grease with a q-tip or similar swab, 3: use alcohol and a clean swab to wipe away any excess.

[@doodlebug6833]

instead of rusty bolts, if the hole is small enough i use foam ear plugs. Makes for a more compact and versatile package.

[@colepollock7695]

Seth I remember when you would test new products and stuff. Bring that back!

[@ryansfinance1255]

hey seth, there's a channel called etoe, and he does all things paint related with all things mountain biking. i'd call him the best to do it personally, and he's incredibly informative. if you ever want a recommendation to send people to someone, that's the guy. great video!

[@kirkaderkderk]

I'm a huge fan of red 3m scotch brite pads for prep. You can get a bulk pack of knock off ones on Amazon for cheap. Also, if you're really looking to improve durability, 2k clear coat can be applied over standard rattle can paint. 2k clear is what is used on modern cars

[@veetisainio2318]

You can get higher quality nozzle for cheap rattle cans, makes a big difference. the paint is still cheap, but it will just come out more evenly and atomised

[@TarzantheFunkyMan]

I’ve actually heard of guys using modeling clay or pottery clay to fill bolt holes, let that sit for a day or so to harden before you paint, once the paint dries, you just chip the clay out and use some water to get the little stubborn bits out of the threads. Then you have a perfect coat and untouched threads

[@JensEskildsen]

Foam earplugs works aswell, and theres no waiting :)

[@demsouano4893]

very nice bro. i love the way you talk. loud and clear

[@Dempsey222]

cool idea. I love when you do videos like this.

[@Specce]

Aw man. This takes me back almost 20 years. Standing in the garage and painting my used dragonfly bmx frame for the first time. Holy crap it came out horrible. But I had so much fun and we all painted most of our parts to that kind of "meh" level.

[@martin_hannover_laatzen]

for the flat parts like the ahead cap and the cassette end ring, i always lay the sandpaper flat on the table and slide the part to be painted back and forth

[@JeepXLC]

*PRO-TIP* if you're using automotive grade paint, and you get hazy spots from doing the light coats... you can just use a light rubbing compound or other light scratch repair waxing product and buff it to gloss.

[@charlessullivan3835]

hey Seth try 3 coats of any crappy paint but lay first coat down with primer rely light then do second coat with collier of choice lightly have the can further back then do third coat some what heavy than clear coat the results will last longer over time. also I saw the sand blasting video after you sand blast say cranks try painting on bulling liquid. also love your video's your content is amazing

[@micahisaacson3345]

I loved this video!!!! thank you Seth for taking the time to help out the noobs to mountain biking :)

[@crispysgames6712]

I missed your videos you great job making videos keep it up

[@arsenal_au7121]

Great vid this guy changes the way mtb is

[@williamyawn2325]

another tip for bolt holes if they are big enough. Foam Earplugs. super cheap and easy to remove afterwards if you dont have spare bolts lying around.

[@timothyzhelnovakov5586]

I’ve been a professional rattle canner for the past 8years, everything from wood to bike parts to motorcycle parts/frames this is exactly how to do it

[@JensEskildsen]

No sanding between layers? :)

[@timothyzhelnovakov5586]

@@JensEskildsen unless you are Useing old paint you don’t have to

[@jeremysteinmeier1701]

@@timothyzhelnovakov5586 I only do it if I get a lot of overspray drifting on windy days. Then again it's not a lot of effort to get overspray off.

[@eoinfarnan1493]

Sussy Seth is back

[@dariushyarmahmoodi2406]

Hey Seth, I have a hack for when you remove the fork. When you remove the fork, use a large Alan key to go through the stem spacers and all the other hardware so they don’t fall all over the floor.

[@dyandersonco]

its a good day when seth uploads

[@MountainBikeCulture]

CONGRATS ON 800K Seth! Amazing work!

[@BlueCollarBachelor]

Start out painting altoids boxes. Those little tins are great practice pieces. I use them to test colors.

[@doofydrift3848]

It’s always a good day when Seth makes a video

[@stujm8376]

That’s given me a great idea, I’ve been wanting to spray my forks orange on my lime green cannondale… it’s gonna look epic

[@MinTieS.]

Tip: An inexpensive way to remove anodization from parts is using supermarket bought oven cleaner spray. Spray it on the parts and the anodization will come right off with a bit of scrubbing.

[@manziladollion6782]

I’M HUMBLE AND 👆🏻👆🏻👆🏻APPRECIATE OF ALL YOU’VE DONE FOR MY SON SCHOOL BILLS THIS FLIPS REALLY GOES A LONG WAY YOU’RE THE BEST

[@alexpannell5265]

Congratulations on 800k😍🥰

[@rivercloud32]

I used to be a patreon member. You got me into mountain biking. Your videos have gotten KZbin basic

[@logout1337]

Seth going all safety mode is telling. Contrast to my college roommate and I who used to spray paint stuff in our bathroom using towels and t-shirts as masks

[@JKohlmann]

You can easily protect threads (like the cassette cover) using teflon pipe tape. It's easy to apply and get situated exactly where you need it. Then once the paint is dry, you peel if off to reveal perfectly protected threads! No post-painting cleanup required.

[@ortega9115]

I have a recommendation for you. Get a surly lowside, because it is a single speed mountain bike, but it is more like a mix between a BMX and a mtb than just a mtb. I don't personally have one, but I just thought you might like it.

[@locualoein8543]

With cans the result use to be good but ... the paint last less than original paint job. So, after 9 times painting my XC frame (one per year) I give up and the last finish was raw aluminium with clear coat and some details to make more apealing. But it was funn, I have even paint one time with a paint that glow in the dark ... but needs light to glow so ... no very glowy at night time😅

[@ely.brownell]

A tip from someone who uses spray cans a lot on models and things: instead of doing one steady pass with the paint, do a bunch of short and light passes per coat. This will make its less likely to drip and you don't have to be super precise about dialing the pressure in. Hope this helps!

[@Naomi_Boyd]

When you finish a coat of paint, turn the can upside down and give it a quick spray downwind or away from anything important. That will clear the tube in the paint can and help prevent splatter or clogging the next time you use it.