How to paint miniatures - a beginner's guide to model painting

Whether it's Warhammer or Frostgrave, Guild Ball or D&D, painting miniatures is a lot of fun. But how do you get started, what do you need to paint a model and how do you get it looking like the pictures on the box? Here's a beginner's guide to painting miniatures.
Luke's APS on spray cans: • Are 75p Primers Better...
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[@varunchaturvedi2581]

I see that Watson proved to be an excellent producer.

[@seanthebluesheep]

I dont know why, but that back wall is incredibly soothing to me.

[@theposhgoblin4270]

Johnny, what about the most important question; paint water, drink or no drink?

[@dicebreaker]

Drink your paint water

[@X3._.n3]

Drinking the paint water is a great way to celebrate a model well painted. Personally I consider a full glass of wasted paint water a mark of shame, and often leave it undrunk to mark a shoddy paint job. These full glasses help keep me from becoming too overconfident in my painting ability. Hope this helps.

[@ItsTommyRight]

@@X3._.n3 Okay, because I'm an idiot and can't gauge whether people are joking or not, I can't tell if you're being sarcastic. You're going to have to just tell me if you're joking

[@neolexiousneolexian6079]

@@ItsTommyRight ....I have to assume they're joking, and yet am extremely concerned at the thought that they're not. Personally, I store my paint water from my most successful models in jars on the top shelf of my wine collection. It's a good way to stretch out the celebration, and to show your game group that you're thinking of them by pouring out a toast to heavy metal poisoning whenever they're over.

[@sacredsock8031]

7:25 you sir, are a brave man. Rinse mug and coffee mug side by side on the same desk? Playing dangerously

[@neolexiousneolexian6079]

The bit you don't see is where the stuff in the rinse mug ends up in the coffee mug.

[@cheezysauce4963]

Been wanting to get into mini painting for a while now, so perfect time for this video from mah dice breaking folks across the pond

[@DeadmanWL]

Johnny: "...when your clearly a failure, and will never amount to anything." … I feel personally attacked here.

[@CursedKurt]

16:49 is some of the best advice for anyone, at any time, really.

[@mikelytle6704]

Thanks for this. It really helps us noobs in rural areas who don't have a lot of shops or groups to go to for this kind of help

[@RulesandRulings]

Not necessarily a beginner tip, but layering is SO much easier if you pick up some glaze medium. Its a commitment to doing multiple passes to get any kind of strong colour, but a couple of drops of glaze medium makes it incredibly easy to layer without worrying about wateriness.

[@xtieburn]

Nail files can be very useful for prep. Also, Im not sure if they still do it but Games Workshop used to let anyone paint their miniatures in store with paints and such they provided for free. (Obviously not something to do until quarantine is up.)

[@mryesmeatballs]

great video Johnny. One tip I would add is Citadel plastic glue is pretty bad, very blobby and the tip blocks easily. "Tamiya extra thin cement" is way better. It is so thin that it creeps into joints by capillary action, so you can use a lot less and make better joints. Made a big difference for me building trickier elf models. Available in any Hobbycraft.

[@AcrobaticRex]

Great vid! Potentially the last tip is the most important in my opinion... When you start (at least, when *I* started!) it's very easy to see professionally painted models and feel like nothing you do will ever be good enough. That's fine and normal, but the worst thing you can do is let it put you off painting more! Sticking at it is, of course, the only way anyone ever got better. Be proud of what you did, and bear in mind that *any* painted model (yes, even yours) looks better than bare plastic. A couple of minor extra tips from me: Don't make the mistake I made for *years* growing up and thinking when you paint something small you only want a tiny dab of paint on the brush. It's actually more important to dilute your paint then as not only does it thin it down and allow the layer beneath to show, it also flows off your brush onto delicate areas more easily. Just make sure it's not too wet and that there isn't too much paint on your brush! And also, a proper base on a model makes it look (and sources vary on the exact value, but this is a good guide) one hundred thousand times better. There are a ton of cheap products to make basing easy (Luke's APS has a store that sells base ready rock cover and basing glue for a few pounds) but even if it's PVA glue and sand painted goblin green it will absolutely finish your model off.

[@seagreen42]

Will definitely be watching this video again the next time I paint up a mini. Thanks Johnny, you explain everything so well and with such calm.

[@insaneoasis]

My wife and I started our mini painting adventure last night! I’m gonna show her this video when we have our painting session tonight. :)

[@frodobaggins7710]

I really appreciate you making this video Johnny. I started to get into painting miniatures last year with my Blood Bowl teams, but I didn't really know what I was doing or which paints to use. I might give it another go thanks to this video

[@thedragonsbattle6019]

Is it possible to get a follow up video about advanced ways of painting a model? I enjoyed this video a lot more than I thought

[@ashf4200]

I haven't painted a miniature in... erm.. a little over 20 years. Wow. Wasn't ready for that maths. But this was delightful, and if you'd been doing these videos when I was (or, y'know, if KZbin wasn't the thick end of a decade from being a thing), I'd have been much, much better.

[@davidmorris6707]

These painting videos are very relaxing to watch

[@cloudcollector83]

I've been meaning to give this a go for so long but could never figure out where to start, so I super appreciate this video. Thank you and stay healthy

[@calumchamberlain4838]

personally I think that using painting pose that is comfortable and gives you back good support is really important and will help give your hands more control when painting. this step us vitailly importing epacsilly if suffer from Disperxia / naturally a clumsy person .

[@ulfhazelcreek8108]

Very lovely day to you too.

[@darrinstanfill6846]

I’ve actually only painting one mini like this. Actually wait,I’m about to. Picked up a few at the game store yesterday but the dnd collector series one is the only one that comes on the plastic excess thing. Also it’s only two peices,the base and mini. Base is the typical square brick floor and alllll my others are the nolzers with the flat black base. I love these collector series ones as I can obviously ad detail that goes along with the miniature or even otherwise,add to the visual as a whole. In other words I think I’ll be looking for more miniatures like these. I also love the idea of getting the full on army boxes for extra customization like the heads n weapons etc but I only see those in like,war hammer futuristic type outfits n stuff. I’m not into it. I’m a straight up mid evil fantasy kinda guy I reckon.

[@lyg]

Thank you for the video!

[@TheOneTheyCallJack]

7:58 blessings of our lord and saviour in these trying times

[@seanthebluesheep]

5:36 for a nice treat as well

[@ItsTommyRight]

Is this just the positive out of context Jhonny quotes comment? If so 9:26 it's only like a second long but it's true. Things will be fine, we just have to out wait what's not do good right now.

[@laserlettuce6121]

Having been into painting minis for about 20 years I can give one solid piece of advice. Invest in some kind of good lighting setup. The eye strain you will save just for getting a $20 ring light with a magnifying glass from amazon is something I wish I had considered much sooner.

[@niks4054]

very good guide :) thanks

[@anlize3422]

Nice video! I would love to see more about this topic. Now, I would like to ask, beside paiting, do you guys fancy building? Like, pre-painted models or models that focus more building (like gunpla, for example). If so, could you explore this a bit?

[@langdon7x]

When it comes to buying the right paints, where should you start? I imagine there are absolutely tons of different types.

[@dicebreaker]

Vallejo is a really good brand. Citadel paints are good too but are a bit more expensive. Army painter is a cheap and cheerful brand. As for colours, pick up the three primary colours alongside some dependable shades you think you might use a lot for the miniatures of your choice (brown for Woods and leathers, for example). Some starter sets are great for stuff like this. Don't be intimidated by the different types (base, edge, technical etc etc) - these are just fancy words for different paint thicknesses!

[@langdon7x]

@@dicebreaker Thank you!

[@paulhamilton7854]

I started with Reaper's "Learn to Paint: Core Skills" set. Reaper paints are generally regarded as not being as good as Vallejo or Citadel. But, it comes with 3 miniatures that don't need to be assembled or primed. I wasn't sure if I would enjoy painting minis, and I think the set was a good way for me to try the hobby without spending too much. I recommend looking at reviews of the set and seeing if it fits your needs.

[@langdon7x]

I'm almost at the point where I might just amazon a miniature set and paint, and give it a try.

[@peterdickinson4599]

Hello. The choice of paints could fill a large book. Every range has it’s pros and cons and the internet is full of opinions. However, everyone is different and what works for one person might not apply to someone else. Someone that has been painting for twenty years and won awards will have a perspective that might not be useful to a complete novice. You just have to find out what works for you. Some core truths... 1. Citadel are over-priced, the pots are horrible, but they are good quality paints and the washes and texture paints are great. Just expensive. 2. Vallejo’s Model Colour range is the best all-round, affordable paint range out there and the most forgiving for beginners, but they are not organised in useful triads of a dark, a medium, and a light hue of the same colour. You will have to hold your own hand. Check out Dr Faust’s painting channel for what you can do with them. 3. Always be prepared to thin your paints and never expect one coat to cover completely. 4. Always wash your sprues in soapy water and wear gloves (rubber, latex, disposable, etc... ) when assembling your minis before priming. 5. Always prime your minis before painting. If just starting out, do that in white. Use a rattle-can designed for plastics. Use quick, side to side motions and achieve full coverage with two to three light coats. Allow each application to dry fully. The finish should be matt. If your primer is glossy then it is too thick and the paint might not adhere. Follow the instructions on the can. 6.. Avoid all “beginner” sets (boxes of a dozen paints arranged in primaries, secondaries, etc...) unless you are competent at mixing your paints and understand colour theory. 7. Learn about colour theory. You need to know this. 8. The only “true” beginners set is Army Painter’s “Mega Box Set”. Though this will set you back a lot of money and people criticise their quality. Personally, there are a lot of divas out there and I’ve never had a problem with AP’s paints. So if you want to dive into the hobby with both feet then buy the Mega box set. 9. Do not dive into the hobby with both feet. Take your time. Buy a single, inexpensive sprue of figures on eBay (Frostgrave soldiers for example). These are your guinea-pigs. Experiment with them. Learn how to cut them out, clean mould-lines, fill gaps, base, and assemble them. And then buy some paints that will allow you to paint the minis the colours you want. As you buy more minis buy more paints, but not to collect, to use. Completed products are more important than pending projects. Deliberately buy from different companies and learn what you like and what you don’t. Check out the Midwinter Minis channel. He works with a small number of paints. Try copying him. 10. Have fun. And remember that the only person you should ever compare yourself to is your own past self. Comparison to others is the thief of joy. Good luck.

[@dubbingsync]

Even though I’ve never painted a mini this is still interesting even though I’m only using it as background noise.

[@theretard666]

I really appreciated how you didn't just say what to do, but why you do it, explaining the benefits and effects of such. When I tried (and failed) to learn as a kid, that was always a barrier I ran into "why am I doing this again?". Also, I think it's worth double stating that you should CUT the model parts from the sprue, I lost a not insignificant number of models by being lazy and snapping/twisting them out. And even when you don't get the model destroyed, the bits of sprue still attached are pretty unsightly and more effort to remove than just cutting them in the first place.

[@martinholden6214]

Great video! I have been panicking about a mini I bought for my d&d campaign (I want it to look epic ovbiously, tho I won't beat myself up if it isnt perfection), this video is one of best ive seen so far for general idea of painting a mini. I'm less terrorfied about starting now *gulp* hahaha

[@superspecky4eyes]

I think a simpler method for beginners would be base coat all colours, some sort of appropriately coloured wash, then a subtle grey dry brush all over. It looks fantastic for the amount of technical skill required and will give a people the confidence to experiment further.

[@damianjaviervediamcmahon7149]

More of this! Do you hear me, Algorithm Gods? More of this!

[@edwardthomas1164]

"Make Look Good Water" yep. May steal that.

[@webgiant7123]

My local tabletop games store has an extensive selection of neat model painting tools. Have you run across brushes with triangular handles instead of round ones? They're really easy to keep steady, and the guy I spoke to at the store said they make it much easier to remember to rotate the brush as you paint.

[@JoePlinkelton]

Thank you for this guide! :D

[@jo-bn9992]

Thank you for this, I've been debating giving painting miniatures a go, the idea of it has felt a little daunting until watching this video, I did have one question. Is it necessary to do any sort of, I'm not sure what the term would be, but protective coat at the end to like seal it? Or is that sort of thing not necessary? Thanks!

[@Zeeeemonolith]

Firstly, I would recommend jumping in with painting, it'll be daunting, but you have to start somewhere so if you do, maybe pick up cheap models to start on. In regards to a protective coat, you can use hairspray if you want, it's worked for me in the past, but since I don't use the miniatures for gaming, I don't really touch them once done. The less contact, the less chance to dull or chip the paint.

[@jo-bn9992]

The Amazing El Phantasmo thanks for the reply. I have two kids. I feel they would inevitably be played with in some way, at some point.

[@BattyButtercup]

from what little i know of painting - be it on scraps of paper, fingernails, arts&crafts gifts, or canvas - it is surprising how many supplies for one kind of painting (e.g. manicures or nail art) can serve for another (e.g. figurines). it would depend on what kind of paint you used but hairspray or clear nail polish will probably do nicely until you want to "commit" to specific kinds of paints & tools. i strongly suggest cleaning brushes between dipping in & out if you are, say, applying nail polish to highlight/varnish a minifig just as a safety-hygiene thing. oh! and the brushes IN nail polish are generally bulky so feel free to ignore them & use your own (cleaned!) brushes instead.

[@nightcatarts]

A protective coat is entirely optional (most decent acrylic paints will hold up quite well to some knocks & being dropped), but if you do choose to do it, whichever of the above methods you go with (or just a spray can of clear satin varnish), always do a test first. The solvents in certain things will eat through your paint & can strip it off the model, especially if you're brushing it on. This is why I prefer a spray can for clear coating, because it allows for gentler application. Also bear in mind that different manufacturers will use different solvents & something termed clear/nail varnish/lacquer from one brand may be fine, when another is very much not.

[@peterdickinson4599]

Hello. If your miniature is going to be used as a play-piece and be handled then you will need to protect the paint-work. Most companies that produce paint ranges also produce varnishes to protect the finished piece. Varnishes come in three finishes; gloss, satin, and matt. Or shiny, a bit shiny, and not shiny at all. Take a look at the Vallejo Model Colour range and you will see their varnishes listed. Most mini-painters prefer a matt finish: it looks more realistic. Varnishes look milky out of the pot/dropper-bottle, but they dry clear and if you have bought a varnish from a quality company, it will not adjust the underlying colours when dry. I am not sure the same can be said for cheap cans of hair-spray. Who knows what that might look like in a years time? You can use aerosol can varnishes, it’s certainly a quicker way to coat a large number of minis, but in my experience, unless you shell out for the best stuff, they are never as matt as they claim to be. Finally, some companies produce paint lines designed to be used on minis that will be used as play-pieces. These lines have an additional resin component in the paint. See Vallejo’s “Game Colour” or Scale 75’s “Fantasy & Games”. Hope that helps. Good luck.

[@NiceDandy0]

great vid!

[@gigaflynn_]

I agree, the make-look-good-water is very important.

[@gigaflynn_]

I tend to play grungy factions, in part because I can stop after the make-look-good-water step.

[@shawnheatherly]

I don't have any models to paint, but this was still informative.

[@codywilson4938]

I love that there are 0 dislikes on this video.

[@Inlelendri]

I've been hoping for a video like this since I first saw you guys paint. Thank you so much! One question - speaking as someone who's been through the effort of choosing with Tria Markers, how many and/or which paints would you recommend for a beginner's kit?

[@MonikaLockpick]

Wonderful video, thanks so much for it I would be really curious as to how to best paint a see through part of a miniature (for example I have a dragon with fire and I just can’t start it, because I don’t know how to do the flames)

[@peterdickinson4599]

Painting transparent or reflective objects is a real skill. The subject might be silly, a goblin or a dragon, but the techniques are no different than those used by master artists. A mini is just a tiny, 3D canvas. There are always methods and short-cuts to achieve effects that will trick the viewer’s eye. Check online for tutorials. When it comes to fire or flames then the “trick” is to remember that the opposite lighting rules apply. Usually the deepest recesses will be dark, and the most exposed areas brighter. The opposite is true of flames. The centre is hotter therefore whiter and the extreme edges cooler and smokier therefore darker. Start with white, then while the paint is still wet blend in yellow, then orange, then red, and finally black working outwards from the centre. Good luck.

[@max90153]

Awesome vid Johnny, might crack my paints out again (or more likely buy new ones as it's been a few years). Any tips for stripping old paint off a model? I painted a bunch when I was young and a lot of nice models are now covered in terribly applied paint. Looking forward to seeing more about minis!

[@meikahidenori]

Unless the model is metal, you can't really strip the paint. What we do with metal minatures is bathe & scrub them with nail polish remover & a tooth brush. Sometimes if there's a massive build up of paint anything that strips oil paints works, but it's best to avoid that as some oil paint strippers can ruin metal minis.

[@Ben-xm8cf]

1.Put the minis you want to strip into a jar. 2.Fill the jar to the top edge of the minis (around a 3/4 of the way up) with Simple Green. 3.Fill the rest of the jar with water, and put the lid on. 4.Let the jar sit for a few day and you should start to see the paint come off. 5.Once most of the paint has stripped off take the minis and clean them off with an old toothbrush. It's not a perfect method but it'll get most of the paint off, and it works on both metal and plastic models (I don't know if it works on resin).

[@mryesmeatballs]

@@Ben-xm8cf "Biostrip 20" and a toothbrush will strip any models except resin, which it melts.

[@peterdickinson4599]

Okay, first up: Don’t strip old minis! This hobby is full of people producing amazing work. If you compare yourself to them you will only make yourself miserable. The only person you should compare yourself to is your past self. That’s why you shouldn’t strip old minis. They are a valuable record of who you used to be. If you are determined to start again, and live in the UK, then you should use Dettol. It will remove acrylics, varnishes, aerosol primers, and even enamels without damaging the mini whether it is metal, resin, or plastic. You will need two toothbrushes, some hand soap, and a clean glass jar with a lid. Put enough Dettol in the jar to cover your figures. Use neat Dettol. Do not dilute it. In this method water is the enemy, it reacts with the dissolved paint to make a horrific glue. Pop the minis in the neat Dettol, screw on the lid and walk away for 24 hours. Put on some rubber gloves, take the mini out and using one of the dry toothbrushes clean the gunk off the mini into a sink. Use Dettol from the jar to dilute the gunk. If it isn’t completely clean then pop it back in the Dettol. If clean then use kitchen towel to clean the mini. Get into all the crevices. Get the second toothbrush and dispense a blob of soap onto the mini and get cleaning until the suds are clean coloured. Only now, slowly, rinse off the soap using running water. Let it dry and your mini should be ready for priming. Dettol will not affect glues, but weak joints can break if you clean roughly. Vallejo and GSW fillers are dissolved. Good luck.

[@Sheldon1985]

Have you got any recommendations for where to actually buy miniatures? I'm UK based and have no idea where to start

[@joshdoesyoutube]

This please ^^^

[@nightcatarts]

Plastic glue may also be known as poly cement, for those looking for it.

[@SusseBo]

Have you ever dipped you brush in your tea? I thought you were about to. 😂

[@emmylittle4336]

Dry brushing tips please and wet palette how to please

[@popnpeaceprincess]

ok so can i just use spray paint primer and craft acrylic paint?

[@Technoir444]

Nice video Johnny, would you still use glue on the Warhammer easy to build push fit models? I’ve just bought the Storm Strike boxset and beginning to put the models together.

[@dicebreaker]

Those you can assemble without glue and they're pretty much fine tbh

[@Technoir444]

🍻 Cheers

[@peterdickinson4599]

I asked this same question of the guys working in the GW store because my Nighthaunt minis had gaps. They cut the pegs off their minis - the ones they have in the displays - and use the plastic glue to join the parts together. They precoat the edges with the glue to soften them. Then after a minute, squeeze the two parts together while the glue hardens. Forms a perfect, seamless mini ready for painting. Push-fit kits are designed to get kids into the hobby. But if you want a good looking mini it’s best to use glue.

[@cthulhufhtagn2483]

I already have some acrylic craft paints. Are those going to be enough for something like this, or do I need real model paints?

[@dicebreaker]

One way to find out! I suspect they'll be fine tbh

[@cthulhufhtagn2483]

@@dicebreaker Sweet! The less money I have to spend, the better XD. Thanks!

[@meikahidenori]

Yes you certainly can! Me and my hubs use a combination of miniature & standard acrylic paints, especially since lighter colours in acrylic paints tend to be less see through than say those made by citadel

[@peterdickinson4599]

It depends. Craft paints have less pigment and the pigment they do have is less finely ground. That is why they are cheaper. They can be used, but you need to be skilled and patient (apply multiple coats) to get anything resembling a pleasing finish. If I was going to spend money on minis I’d want them to look as good as I could and that would mean using good paints. Though there is a lot to be said for making do with what you’ve got; necessity being the mother of invention etc... Give craft paints a go. See if you have fun. Then give some mini paints a whirl and see if you notice a difference. It’s all experience.

[@cheayunju]

Not bad. Good break down of tips but super long vid to get there. I did learn a good basic structure though: prime, base, layer up, wash, highlight

[@dndforbeginners]

What about dry brushing?

[@davidwearmouth5518]

Hey guys would you say most of this applies to slightly larger models i'm thinking, to talk specific, of painting my scythe and rising sun models?

[@joshdoesyoutube]

Looking to start collecting and painting minitures, but I'm not sure on a reliable place to purchase them from. Do you have a particular store you order them from, or do you just use amazon or alike?

[@Dreamklubdk]

Why is the mic aimed for the tiger...? Also, I love listing to Johnny explaining things. I do not care about what in general... It's just good!

[@dougsundseth6904]

"Let's start at the very beginning" A very good place to start When you read you begin with ABC When you sing you begin with do-re-mi All together now!

[@kaushtubhchauhan]

ABC eeaasy as do-re-mi

[@Zeeeemonolith]

Hello

[@ianschank]

I make LEGO minis for my D&D campaign because LEGOs are kind of my thing. But I still like to customize them beyond the basics with paint and razors and glue. I actually made LEGO minis of the Johnny and the Oxventure guild recently. I have pictures of them here if anyone is interested in seeing how they came out: www.flickr.com/photos/113149994@N02/49522169571/in/album-72157713646010871/ I'll probably end up making the Breakquest Club and Dungeonbreaker characters too eventually.

[@M.macinnis]

What is the resin mini with the abhorrent mouth that you show off around 3:10?

[@dicebreaker]

A mourngul!

[@rheidaovan5840]

Is your pallete some cloth in a bit of water? I was wondering how to keep paint fresh longer (and how to control mixing it with water). Sorry for bad English, hope it is understandable.

[@hannahweber]

Right around 10m 13s in the livestream Dicebreaker did with Luke, Wheels describes how they made a wet palette. Hope that helps! kzbin.info/www/bejne/oWHHg5-sjtyqrrc

[@peterdickinson4599]

You can buy wet palettes. But they are easy to make. You need a shallow plastic container with a lid. Use a thin sponge - the dense type for home cleaning are perfect. Cut it to size. Add water until it is saturated. You can use tapwater or distilled water. I use a thin layer of cotton next. A cheap handkerchief I cut a rectangle out of. Place that flat on the wet sponge. Next you need the paper. I use parchment paper. Either good quality tracing paper or basic baking paper. It needs to be permeable, so non-stick baking paper won’t work because it has a coating of silicon. Place that on, let it absorb and flatten down. You can now paint. The wet palette does not just stop paints drying out, it allows water to come up through the paper thinning the paint making it easier to use. Store overnight in a fridge. Discard after three days and clean in soapy water between changes to stop moulds forming.

[@JoePlinkelton]

What is the pricerange on miniatures? It sounds fun but experimenting could get expensive, could it?

[@peterdickinson4599]

Games Workshop produce some amazing miniatures, but they charge big prices. If it is a one-off show piece, or a small skirmishing unit, or Blood Bowl team then that’s fine. You are buying quality. However, if you get into 40K, or AoS then the rules for building your armies are designed to deplete your bank account. Best avoided in my opinion. Honestly, if it’s a good game the play-pieces shouldn’t matter. Bits of cardboard should do. Other manufacturers do not try to bleed you so dry. Mantic and Warlord both produce excellent minis for their games that are far more sanely priced. And the games are better too. Personally, if you are just starting out in the hobby you should check out Frostgrave. They have two sets of soldiers, one male one female. You can buy individual sprues on eBay. Each sprue is highly customisable and of very high quality. Everything you needto learn when starting off can be learnt from a single sprue - five minis - about five quid. Good luck.

[@ItsTommyRight]

Jhonny: "This is about experimentation, practice and patience..." Me: "Well then, three things I struggle with" Jhonny: "...Just be kind to yourself" Me: "Haha, nope!" *internally cries and model painting hopes and dreams die*

[@WePaintMinis]

"mine are pink." Made me giggle.

[@camerontgore]

Just be kind to yourself. Johnny 2020

[@AssassinNaivara]

Any chance for a return of Chiodini's Kitchen what with the isolation nowadays?

[@dicebreaker]

Nope!

[@AssassinNaivara]

@@dicebreaker Unfortunate, but understandable. Thought id ask anyway. Great video, by the way!

[@Zeeeemonolith]

My problem with painting miniatures is I keep planning on buying nice and easy things, and end up with Nekron Wraiths and Lady Olynder and other Nighthaunts.

[@00pugsly48]

I don’t want to alarm you Johnny but I think you’re being haunted by Duncan Rhodes

[@rocksnrolls]

*poundshop*... should be around 99p.

[@biffo1960]

Lights look stupid