How to Rebuild a CV Axle

In this Steve's Garage video I cover how to rebuild a CV axle on a FWD/AWD car. I'm working on a driver side CV axle from a 2000 Volvo V70 XC, so there are some quirks and specifics that apply to that CV axle, but it is general enough to give you a great overview for any axle. If you are rebuilding a CV axle on a P80 Volvo - specifically an AWD model, this video will great. If you are rebuilding a CV axle on a different car, it's a great guide, and you can ignore the specifics about a 2000 Volvo CV axle.
If you have any questions about rebuilding a CV axle, please leave a comment! Feel free to check out my other CV axle videos if you have questions about a worn CV axle, or buying vs rebuilding a CV axle. Thanks for watching!
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Chapters:
0:00 - Intro
0:43 - Other CV Axle Information
1:06 - Tools You'll Need to Rebuild a CV Axle
1:51 - Inner CV Axle Joint Removal
2:57 - Outer CV Axle Joint Removal
4:21 - CV Joints Off Axle Shaft
5:12 - CV Axle Vibration Damper
5:55 - CV Axle Disassembly Details
6:14 - Before You Reassemble CV Axle
6:44 - Inner CV Axle Joint Installation
7:34 - CV Axle Clamps!
8:18 - Outer CV Axle Bearing Installation
9:09 - Outer CV Axle Joint Installation
10:50 - Outro

[@acdii]

Thing to note, not all CV axles use the round ring to hold the shaft to the center race, but use a snap ring, so the easiest solution is to learn how to disassemble the bearing while still attached to the shaft. Best way is with a brass punch on the bearing cage until a ball comes loose, then repeat on another angle. Once 2 balls are out the rest just slide out, then you can get the snap ring off. If you don't learn this and come across one of the snap ring type, you will break or damage something trying to get the center race off the shaft. On the other side, the tri bearing side, there is a lip on the end of the groove the bearing slides in that prevents the assembly from coming out. Only way to remove it is to file or grind the lip off. When reassembling, you stake the pockets at the end to prevent the race from falling out.

[@StevesGarage]

Thanks for the great reply! Yes, axles can have a bit of a different design depending on the car and going in with that knowledge is good so you don't damage something. It's especially difficult when you're trying to work through all the axle grease. Thanks again for the details. I'll pin the comment to help others out!

[@hansdegeytere]

Looks very much like mu MX5 CV shafts which I will rebuild, so your video is very helpful, thank you !

[@StevesGarage]

Awesome to hear it worked for a non-Volvo car! CV shafts can have small differences between models so thanks for the comment. Enjoy your fresh axles!

[@brianlatus6542]

Awesome video very detailed thank you.

[@StevesGarage]

You're welcome, glad it helped!

[@LooneyRooney6274]

Im having to replace a cv axle on a 09 chevrolet impala lt (police) & this vid helped out alot. Thanx!

[@StevesGarage]

Thats great to know! Glad it helped even though it was a totally different car. Hope your axles are good as new. Thanks for leaving a comment!

[@dbnzt]

Dope. Now to reboot some Testarossa axles

[@StevesGarage]

Whoa, really? That's awesome!

[@1_Bad_Z]

Interesting video. I recently had my oem CV Axles rebuilt for my 2005 Honda civic si hatchback (5 speed manual). Initially new aftermarket axles were installed @ my service shop. Twice the transmission oil leaked everywhere. The decision was made to send original axles to be rebuilt. So far so good.

[@StevesGarage]

Hopefully the rebuilt OEMs serve you well! Interesting that yours leaked. Maybe the diameter of the axle shaft was just slightly smaller so the seals leaked?

[@1_Bad_Z]

@@StevesGarage That's what another shop told me. Aftermarket new CV Axels are hit and miss. New ones from Honda are a fortune.

[@StevesGarage]

@@1_Bad_Z Yea new axles are a ton of money, but it definitely seems like they're worth the money to avoid the frustration. I haven't had a good experience with aftermarket axles.

[@michaelduncan5948]

Well done, exellent video

[@StevesGarage]

Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for the comment.

[@Windraver]

Thanks for this. I'm trying to fabricate my own CV axles (Honda CRX and Nissan Leaf) and couldn't figure out how to disassemble the wheel side. Turns out I have a snap ring on the inside like you did so I'll try hammering it out next.

[@StevesGarage]

Glad you found the video helpful. Can I ask why you're trying to fab up your own axles? Are you just looking for something much higher quality, or do you have different suspension geometry and want something to better suit your needs?

[@user-zm1zp8tv4i]

Greeting from Lagos Nigeria ❤

[@StevesGarage]

Hey there, thanks for commenting!

[@humanpuppet6597]

I'm doing this for my saab most after market axles are prone to failure

[@StevesGarage]

Seems like that the general consensus, especially for Euro cars. You'll be much happier with the rebuilt OEMs than a failing aftermarket!

[@reallyhappenings5597]

Is it truly necessary to replace the "expander ring" at the innermost terminus of the shaft, part of the tripod housing? The part that clicks into the differential? I have 2002 and 2007 Volvo V70's. Because we have two of these cars, I'm able to rebuild parts from the one to use on the other, in rotation with cheaper aftermarket parts, continuously. *I'm now rebuilding the factory 2007 LH axle to put on the 2002.* It was made in Germany. Do I have to replace the expander ring at the tip of the shaft?

[@StevesGarage]

That's a pretty ideal situation! Hopefully no downtime if you've always got parts to pull. I honestly don't think it's that big of a deal to not change the ring if you're not having any problems with it engaging into the transmission. That being said, you're there with it apart, it also can't hurt.

[@MrCrazyfy]

i wanted to rebuild the triball but mine also won't come apart... both shaft itself and the triball housing are very rusty and I wanna get em sandblasted as all the other parts from my car. Mine also has two rubber boots that combine to one. One boot has taps that prevent the triball to come out when installed so i don't know if i shcould grind down the tabs.

[@StevesGarage]

I opted against grinding off the tabs that hold the tripod into the cup. I was worried about messing up, or causing the cup itself to be out of balance. I have seen forum posts of others doing it without problems. I soaked the tripod and cup in parts de-greaser overnight, then cleaned it out with brake clean. That worked really well. As far as the rust goes, you could try soaking it in white vinegar overnight. I've had very good luck breaking down rust on tools or parts by doing that. Let me know how you make out and if you have any other questions I can help you with!

[@capcadetNH]

I stumbled upon this video because I'm doing the same for my 1997 850 and I was going to buy cv axles from a 1999 xc70 awd

[@StevesGarage]

I hope it helps! It should be a very similar procedure. As far as axle compatibility, I'd double check part numbers. I know there are some differences with years and AWD vs FWD cars because of transmissions and angle gears. I'd go through the Volvo part website, or give IPD a call to be sure the axle will work.

[@dustindevins4776]

Do you leave the snap ring on the shaft and slide the whole shaft into the splines with that ring on?

[@StevesGarage]

Yes, the snap ring should always stay on. I've seen some people say you're supposed to replace it, but mine didn't look like it needed to be. The trick I've seen to get it on is have the open end down, the solid end in the notch. Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions!

[@GaryTaylorvw]

Hi, great video, hmm don’t know if you can advise but I’m doing a 3.2 vr6 dsg swap into my t5 van, the vr6 has bolted flanges on the dsg, but on my existing t5 2.5tdi their not bolted, any suggestions on what I need to do ? Can I swap the flange over or something? I’ve got the engine on a diy test stand in my garage and got it running and sorted all the loom and lights for the van onto the Audi loom.. I’m just stuck on the drive shafts/ half shafts… I’m at the point where the engine is ready to come out of my van all undone except engine mounts and shafts, any help would really be appreciated, donor car was an Audi a3 3.2 v6 dsg, and van is t5 lwb 2.5tdi manual

[@StevesGarage]

First off, thanks for commenting, that sounds like an awesome build! I honestly don't know too much about that stuff though. I know I've seen people swap flanges, but that's on a car that has the shaft coming out of the transmission and all you're doing is putting a different flange on. In your case, the axle is 'male' and slides into the transmission right? More like a typical CV axle? Maybe you could take apart the inner joint of the CV and swap that over? I'm not sure how that would work, though it seems a lot easier than changing what's coming out of the transmission to match the axles.

[@GaryTaylorvw]

@@StevesGarage managed to get the engine out today, ball ache and a half, just spent half the day cleaning everything up so I’ll have a look tomorrow at cv as you suggested just so I have a better idea, was tempted to film it for KZbin , but think I’ll get banned from all the swearing when it’s not going to plan

[@StevesGarage]

@@GaryTaylorvw Glad you got it out! I feel you with the frustration, why do you think all my videos have voice overs hahaha. Let me know how you make out, and if you do start posting on KZbin I'd definitely watch!

[@renatohoxha561]

When I open the CB axle on my Honda accord 08 that has a once. I open the boot bearings fall apart I’m wondering if those not supposed to come out of the cup something was holding inside and is consumed they just go in and out freely and another question. What about the dynamic damper Did you have any problem after you install the CV axles issue with vibration can you please let me know thanks.

[@StevesGarage]

Everything should stay together if you just remove the boot. The ball bearings should be nested in the cage until you remove that whole assembly. As for the damper, I didn't have any issues with the axle once it was removed.

[@renatohoxha561]

Well, I went and got the CV axle from Napa just install them looks like a kind of okay quality but run into another issue looks like the inner mid shaft on the Honda Accord 08 bearing don’t sound so good so I’m gonna have to work on it tomorrow thanks I appreciate your response.

[@StevesGarage]

I have heard better things about Napa compared to Autozone/Advance/O'reilly. Good luck with the mid shaft bearing, they can definitely be a pain.

[@LetsMars]

I know this is an older video, but could please answer a question for me. I’ve been trying to find a replacement axle for a Nissan Rasheen, but I can’t find one. Everyone says it’s the same as a Sentra, but the Rasheen has an axle that bolts on while the Sentra doesn’t. Can you replace bolt on axles with non-bolt axles? Thanks.

[@StevesGarage]

Unfortunately I don't have experience with a Sentra or Rasheen. I know the different style you're talking about, as my Jetta is bolt on and my Volvo is the more typical shaft into transmission splines. Any chance you could pick one up from a junk yard?

[@LetsMars]

@@StevesGarage I’m just wondering if it’s possible to replace a bolt on axle with one slots directly into the transmission.

[@StevesGarage]

@@LetsMars I don't know. You'd have to find something with the correct size and number of splines, along with the correct length to actually reach the spindle.

[@adeelautosworkshop373]

Super

[@StevesGarage]

Glad you liked it!

[@FredMartin-fz3tz]

What about the vibration damper, ??????

[@StevesGarage]

You can't reinstall it if you cut it off.

[@Pasquali_Sergal]

what about reinstalling the vibration damper?

[@StevesGarage]

You can't reinstall it once you've taken it off. This will forever be a debate, but it's not 100% necessary. Many OEM axles have it, and many aftermarkets don't.

[@Pasquali_Sergal]

@@StevesGarage Alrighty then. I understand the logic. I've run into several design features of different vehicles that make me question "why does it need to be like this...?" I mean, if it can live without it... why bother.

[@StevesGarage]

@@Pasquali_Sergal From what I understand with a new OEM axle they want the smoothest driving experience. Once you hit the aftermarket they want to save on costs, but chances are with an old car you won't notice a little extra vibration from a missing damper. I've had axles on my Jetta without the damper for 5 years and I can't tell the difference.

[@amirhamzah2256]

5:12 so it is ok to remove that damper ? 🤔

[@StevesGarage]

Yup! Most aftermarket axles don't have one.

[@lynskyrd]

I just bought a complete passenger side axle for my 2003 S60; $165 assembled. Not sure if doing a rebuild is saving you much. Regardless, good job on the vid.

[@StevesGarage]

I agree, rebuilding might not be the best option money wise. A rebuild kit for a Volvo is around $60, factor in a couple hours of work and you've bought one. That being said, the quality of an aftermarket axle might be an issue. In my case they vibrated a lot even at low speeds. I think the QC of aftermarket axles varies a lot. One person buys a good one, and then the next three are lower quality and no good.

[@lynskyrd]

@@StevesGarage Well Steve- I got away with the cheap aftermarket on the passenger side but I JUST did the drivers side- You are SO RIGHT- this thing shudders upon acceleration. When I first did the test drive- I thought I forgot to tighten the lug bolts- NOPE... piece of junk aftermarket axle. I checked and rechecked everything- all my torque specs just to make sure it wasn't anything I did or didn't do -- still shudders and vibrates. I'm doing it your way. The original axle is still intact- it was making a whirring noise and I discovered the boot near the wheel hub had a tear at the clamp- over time- the lube/grease must have leaked out or water got in. I 'might' be able to get away with just cleaning it out and repacking with new boots. Your thoughts?

[@StevesGarage]

@@lynskyrd Sorry you didn't luck out with the driver side. The shudder does feel like loose lugs, or like a tire dropped a weight. If the boot ripped and you lose all the grease it may be beyond repair. It could be damaged beyond repair from driving without grease. Since you have it you could disassemble and check it. Or find a used intact axle from online or a junk yard and rebuild it for piece of mind.

[@nachosNipples]

a ball fell out when i was replacing a boot and its WAY too big to put back in. mad confused

[@StevesGarage]

I assume it's a ball bearing. You'll have to play with the cage and race to get the ball back in. You can see in this video it takes a little rotating and playing around it line it up to get them in place.

[@reallyhappenings5597]

You need smaller balls buddy

[@RZAtomic]

Interesting too about inner part if someone just want to completly rebuild cv axles. Don't find where can buy a cage or balls

[@StevesGarage]

Yea, that's definitely one issue with rebuilding, especially if you find a problem with those parts. When rebuilding these Volvo axles I came across places that sell them, but it seemed to be a case by case basis. I didn't find any for my specific car, though I did see some for other models.

[@michaelduncan5948]

It's actually the cage that I need for my drive shaft, everything else is fine, when I fitted a new wishbone the drive shaft came out where the balls and cage are and I didn't realise and when I went to move the car it broke a bit off the cage, so I could get another cage if I knew where to get one? Also I have been looking on ebay for a replacement shaft but often when I put the details of my 2002 Volvo v70 Se D5 in, it says this part does not fit your car, so not sure if any other Volvo models have the same shaft? My one is manual, thanks

[@vasilangelov9787]

Please don't hit with a hammer. Just use the axle bolt.

[@StevesGarage]

Good tip, thank you!

[@cycloidMSG]

Damper, not “dampener.” No component of this CV axle moistens. The same goes for suspension.

[@StevesGarage]

Thanks for the heads up. Another commenter mentioned the same thing. Though if a shock was blown and leaking oil out, it would be dampening parts of the suspension 😄

[@ariskeram5770]

the dampener was there for a reason..

[@StevesGarage]

Completely agree, but there's no way to rebuild the inner joint without removing it on this axle. There's plenty of people who remove the dampeners to rebuild an axle and don't have any vibration issues after. I don't like to be destructive when working on a car, but in the case of this axle I didn't have a choice. I wasn't about to grind the tabs on the cup off to remove it.

[@rjm7168]

It's a vibration damper - not dampener.

[@StevesGarage]

Thanks for the clarification!

[@jotu173]

Thanks for the energy you put into this video, Here is some constructive criticisim... no disrespect, but you are verbose, please consider saying way less words with much more thought.

[@StevesGarage]

I've always been a pretty talkative person, so I definitely struggle with being detailed without rambling. Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for the comment.

[@ReviewApaHariIni]

@@StevesGarage Steve, I honestly dont think you spoke too much. Everything you said is relevant to the job at hand and at a good understandable pace. Even the auto caption is catching up fine. No "uhh" or "umm" either. So keep it up. Some people just want a quick video tutorial like a Wikihow article and be mad when the "tutorial" got them stuck lol.

[@StevesGarage]

@@ReviewApaHariIni I appreciate the comment! I do voiceovers after the fact to keep my words clear and from tripping up with "uhhs and umms". I've actually never checked how the auto caption works, so that's good to know it's working well! It'd be hard to make a quick video about axles, they're just not a quick subject!

[@Throwbot091]

skipping from tapping on the inner splined carrier, straight to it just being off is just bad. you should have shown that. thumbs down.

[@StevesGarage]

Sorry to let you down. It's really just hitting that cage with a hammer until it cracks loose from the axle. Nothing special. If you have any other questions I'm happy to help.

[@rustdawg7364]

It's not worth rebuilding unless super pricey reman or new.boots are nearly same price as reman on mine.

[@StevesGarage]

Definitely agree. But new OEM were very expensive, and aftermarket axles weren't working for me. And in some cases new OEM axles aren't even available anymore, so rebuilding OEMs can be better than going aftermarket.

[@jalilconley-anderson3584]

Ebay motors and your backed by 31 day money back guaranteed

[@StevesGarage]

Local part stores by me have a lifetime warranty on their axles. But I have no interest in constantly swapping axles.