HOW TO REPLACE AN IDLER PULLEY WHEEL ON A SPEED SPEED QUEEN

[@stormman8393]

If there is a better explanation of this, I haven't heard it. It really is as easy as Alex demonstrated for those unsure about having a go at this. Thanks Alex.

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Thank you so much !!

[@keycityproperties6104]

thanks! My speed Queen was making a racket mostly on spin cycle, but also a bit on agitating. Did some research and brought me to your video. Ordered a new belt and idler. Replaced it in about 15 mins, and back to normal! Probably could have gotten away with just a belt, but.....

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello, It never hurst to install some extra parts. Your washer is stronger now!!! Good job. Please dont forget to like the video.

[@pasqualeparente9776]

Alex you are a true gentleman. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@coffeemixer4292]

Thanks for these videos Alex. I am repairing my speed queen dryer right now and your videos have been extremely helpful.

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Im so glad I can help. I have to add some footage to this video, replacing the whole idler assembly.

[@tinkering_solar_guy]

Thank you for a great video! You showed very nicely how to get to this pulley! Your video was the first I found when looking for this and I have no reason to look any further! You explained VERY well!! Thank you!

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Thankk you. Good luck on your project.

[@davedarlen]

THANKS! Loving this video! I looked at several videos on how to do this & yours seems to be the best! Heading to our laundry room now to put the new belt on!

[@badtothebone346]

That's the thing about those speed queens, they are easy to repair and easy to identify problems. Also the parts are reasonably priced. I'll never buy another machine. Good job as usual.

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Yes I love those speed queens. I have five properties with 15 and 15 each Same parts for all. Easy piece. Thanks top secret.

[@shawnaspooner5094]

Alex, I did a seal and bearing replacement on our washer, maybe you remember me from that. Well it's been a real nightmare from the beginning starting with the damaged tub needing to be replaced when we removed the old bearings we found that the tub was rusted and corroded so badly the we had to order a new one. 2 months later we finally received the new tub only to find out that I had ordered the wrong one. So I reordered the correct tub from a different company who had a much cheaper shipping cost and would get the tub to us in a week or so. When that one finally came in it was the wrong tub, ( Parts Company error) so finally we get the right tub, put it all together, easy peasy and come to find out the new tub is defective (bad weld around the bottom seam). At this point I'm just done. So I put silicone sealant around the whole bottom seam and this fixes the leak but now we are hearing a super loud horn like squeal rubbing ( don't know how else to describe it) coming from the belt pulls area. This sound stops when we move the pulls in one direction or the other. We had a technician come out and he really seemed pretty clueless. What do you think this might be? Could the washers on either side of the helix need greasing? That was a suggest of another video I watched. You are the guy who would know if anyone does. Sorry for the long Comment, I'm desperate.

[@robhill8894]

The bushing inside that idler wheel, just like on a dryer, is impregnated with slow release lubricant. You are not supposed to add grease or oil to it or it attracts dust and wears out faster. Also, there is a complete kit to replace this idler wheel and belt. Part number is 959P3.

[@jayfromeastl.a1380]

Good tip is get a flat head screwdriver and turn the water pump with flat head where the hole is . And if it turns smoothly it’s good still if not it’s clogged

[@peterpulpitpounder]

Just love the sound effects at 15:43... "Woo hooo!" :)

[@jdillolove]

Helpful video. Thank you

[@Rafael7208]

Thank you very much your video helped me a lot

[@lorenplato4377]

Alex thanks for vids, have you made a video on this model on how to program such as Time on each cycles.

[@anafebus1786]

Very nice explanation. Thanks.

[@peterpulpitpounder]

"Mud" from the "Flood". That made me laugh too! Great video!

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello Preacherdog. Thank you so much!! I was serious about the flood. You think I made it up. That building floods once every two years. It is a pain in the butt. Thank you so much for your comment. See you soon!

[@peterpulpitpounder]

@@alexthehandyman3494 You do an awesome job!

[@mushashakantengwe1191]

I recently changed the belt on the same time of machine but then at the end if a cycle the tension lever is pulled too much and is making a noise when it hits the limit. The spring seems to be in good shape though

[@zekenzy6486]

Great Video. Thank you for sharing

[@jirvin4505]

Awesome description. Thankyou

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Thank you Jeffrey,, please know I have a dozen more videos on speed queens. See you around, thanks for your subscription.

[@websurfin9575]

At 8:29 in the video... what did you use to lubricate the shaft, what is the name of the lubricating spray?

[@IWBVS]

probably just a dry lubricant. don't want to use WD40 since that'll attract dust

[@rapidrhinoplumbing-monrovi3269]

You can discharge power from a capacitor by shorting out the 2 capacitor leads with an insulated screwdriver. Then you won't need to worry about getting shocked. Its a good idea because a capacitor can carry a very high voltage. I certainly would do that if I was doing this repair.

[@alexthehandyman3494]

You are so right! Thank you so much for your comment.

[@johncasor9698]

just so you know: look at 13:46 the hole centering to frame to lower base plate holes are not alined...

[@trevoryoung2806]

Do you actually need the tensioner for the belt? Cause mine broke and I’m thinking just a slightly smaller belt to compensate….no idea what I’m doing just need a cheap fix

[@brunoshow124]

Yes you need it. The belt acts as a clutch during the spin cycle and it needs the right amount of tension to allow it to slip a bit but not too much.

[@rafoster2000]

What model of Speed Queen is this?

[@johncasor9698]

just so you know: that spring is a key component here... it make tension on the belt think about that for about 30 mins...

[@maxwellcrazycat9204]

Does a Speed Speed Queen dry cloths faster than a Regular Speed Queen?

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Do you mean Commercial vs residential speed queen? Commercials tend to have bigger BTU output so it is going to be a bit stronger.

[@Jett1873]

Ty!

[@IWBVS]

dang you're good. how did you turn it on manually and are you able to switch cycles or go to drain cycle?

[@thomasdidymus1393]

i hope this video can help me understand what my issue is because im at the end of my rope

[@rapidrhinoplumbing-monrovi3269]

Alex can you help me out? I am working on a Speed Queen Washer Model AWN412SP111TW01 . It had a bad belt issue. I am sure I bought the correct belt ,,it is a part# 38174. My problem is the belt still slips and does not spin the agitator . I even replaced the idler arm spring and inspected the idler pulley. It is in good condition but the new belt still slips. What should I do Alex? Any help appreciated. David

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello David. Of course lets look at the easy stuff: 1. Right belt size. Double make sure you have the right one. 2. Make sure wide side of belt is facing you and thin side facing the pulleys. 3. Is it making noise. It might be the helix. y will not turn the tub if helix is broke or slipping I have a video on that. 4. And most dreadful!! Disconnect the power source from the wall. With your hands turn the transmission to the right, clock wise for a couple turns. Now do it to the left couple turns. If it doesn't turn by hand both ways the transmission is gone and it should be replaced. Please let me know how it goes.

[@antonioramosramos7704]

❤

[@stickybandit2346]

My idler pulley does not turn at all, barely turns with a large flathead screwdriver. When the machine is running the pully does not seem to spin at all, but the belt is still moving and everything else is turning. The problem we have is that the machine won't agitate but it will do the spin cycle. My question is how and why would the pully be causing the machine to not agitate? Is this stuck pully the real problem with the machine? I didn't see any other problems. The plastic agitator and bell all seem fine.

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello, The idler pulley keeps tension on the belt. The spring at the end of the pulley makes sure the pulley maintains the tension through the wash cycle . If the spring breaks or weakens the washer may fail to agitate or spin. If the wheel does not turn you should replace it. That means that the bearings are shut and that is putting a lot of wear and tear on that belt. Just to be on the safe side get the whole idler pulley assembly and the belt. Good luck let me know how it goes.

[@stickybandit2346]

​@@alexthehandyman3494Thanks for your reply. Please answer if this next information makes sense to you. The history is... Before the 5 year warranty was up the washer stopped working. Because of the warranty I had to have a "Certified" service technician come and fix the washer instead of trying to do it myself. This guy finally figured out that it was the wash setting (clicking) knob that was not making a proper contact when turning it to start a cycle. This is after he had removed the entire motor assembly. He then says we have to wait for the new replacement part to come in and he will also order a new motor. I don't think the motor was bad but he said that I could get a new one before the warranty expires. Once the parts come in he visits again and re-assembles the machine including adding a new motor and while doing so puts some kind of Vaseline like lubricant on the metal part that goes inside the idler pully. He also puts this grease stuff on the inner part of the belt wheel that actually turns the tub spin and/or the agitator depending if it is up or down. I watched as he did this and asked if I should I get some of that "professional' grease in case I have to work on the machine in the future? He explains that it is his special formula and it can't be purchased and also refuses to leave me any of it. Within 2 years this machine stops working again. I ignore it because we have another front load washer to use. A couple years later I am diagnosing why the washer won't work and find that this idler pully does not turned and is seized with sticky black grease that was preventing it from moving. Wouldn't a silicone spray be the proper way to lubricate it? Is it just me or does it appear that this guy did the following: 1) Committed service fraud by getting a new motor and then probably selling my original motor to the next customer that actually needed a motor. 2) Put a homemade grease compound on my pulley guaranteeing that it will seize up after a couple years of loads. 3) Put a homemade grease compound on the belt wheel center guaranteeing that it will eventually stick and seize also preventing agitation and causing spin to need probably a bunch more power. These machines are suppose to run for 25 years, I haven't even got 7 years yet and having to fix it again. I ordered a pully kit that comes with a new belt also. But now I am wondering how I am going to clean off the gunk he put on the turning belt wheel at the center of the machine or do I have to take everything apart to be able to clean it. And, what should be used to lubricate these parts?

[@stickybandit2346]

I was able to clean off grease, using WD-40 and wipes. I then used high temp oil and on the pully silicone lubricant. I ended up not using any of the new parts except for the belt. I was able to clean all the existing parts. Put it all back together and it runs fine now. I would like to make that service professional eat his special grease and cause him a seizure. People are so corrupt!

[@reylagarto6573]

👉🤣 a un sigue vivo..🤣 ya no te an asustado alex

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Que onda Rey Andabas perdido!!!! Saludos!!1

[@Wadley225]

Good video, but I must input. 5:53 -- SHaft, not CHaft, keep working on it, you'll get it. 7:39 - those are not channel locks, those are snap ring pliers. :)

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello Wadley, Thanks for your input . Shaft, Chaf. or Zhaft. It doesn't change anything. As a latino we struggle with S's C's but it is all good. Those pliers are by channel locks. (of courseI know it is a snap ring tool)). Should I hold the pliers with the right or the left hand? Do you get my drift? In spite of all that I receive your comment with respect and gratitude. believe me, I will be watching those S's. Merry Christmas and Happy New year!!.