HOW TO: Replace an RV Skylight

[@tacomatalks6889]

Thanks for making it short, sweet, and to the point. I'm excited for warmer weather when I can replace my camper skylights, and thanks to you I'm not dreading it!

[@RVgeeks]

Thanks so much for the anniversary wishes! We'll try to keep 'em coming over the next decade too! :)

[@HGHG-yg3tb]

Great video. I replaced my skylight today, following your instructions. The clean up was really easy since I have a fiberglass roof.

[@freddy6506]

Even though I don't have an RV I still love watching these videos

[@MRpadify]

Happy Anniversary! You guys have served the RV community very well; as well as your youtube subscribers. Thank you soo much for replying to every comment you can, it has helped us out very much. And again Happy Anniversary!!!

[@RVgeeks]

Thanks so much for the really nice comment, Stephen. We still love RVing after all these years, and hope you're enjoying it as well. Safe travels.

[@artbelden1343]

Thank you for posting this great repair video. I just got done replacing the shower skylight on our 2000 Winabago Horizon Itasca diesel pusher. What I thought was going to be a daunting task was very simple thanks to this video. I used 140 that you suggested. Wow that stuff is sticky! Glad it didn't get on me. It came out perfect.

[@RVgeeks]

That is awesome to hear, Arthur! That is exactly why we make these videos. Thank you so much for letting us know. 😊

[@StephenPinn]

I am still very new to RV'ing, and i have learned so much from your videos, thank you so much! Congratulations on your decade of full-timing, I hope it continues to bring you as much pleasure and fun as it did when you first began. Continued safe travels and success. I will continue to look forward to your posts - Steve

[@RVgeeks]

Use the SB-140. It's the correct sealant for the skylight on any type of roof. Glad the video helped. :)

[@jtnoodle]

Lucky for you, you have a fiberglass roof. Makes it nice and easy to slide the putty knife and scrape the excess sealant off. I'm doing this on a rubber roof. What a pain. It's wants to bunch up as I try to scrape it. Taking way too long.

[@heretodaygone2morrowrving231]

Thank you for your input. I wanted to inquire more so I phoned Dicor and spoke to a representative. I advised him of the application, he replied that the Dicor Lap sealant will not harm the skylight whether plastic , or any other type material .He further stated that their offices are in Elkhart IN and they have several RV manufacturers which use the Lap sealant on their new builds when installing sky lights .

[@RVgeeks]

Great to hear. Thanks for the research. But we'd consider checking with the skylight manufacturer to see what they think, since they know their plastics best.

[@jimhamilton149]

Thanks, these were great instructions. Since replacing my skylight I have had condensation forming on the underside of the skylight sufficient to generate leakage from the liner lip. Any recommendations are welcomed.

[@RVgeeks]

Do you have an inner liner, or is it just a single layer? Also, when does the condensation occur... after showering, sleeping, cooking, etc, or all the time? If you have a inner liner, this might help you access it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/m5nGm4yEqKumhdE

[@jimhamilton149]

RVgeeks Yes, there is an inner liner, exactly like the model shown in the video. The condensation occurred following a period of hot weather, inside trailer was likely very hot; followed by rapid temperature drop (40c to 12c) with heavy rain. The inside of the skylight lens was heavily dripping with condensation. Inspection doesn't indicate it's a seal problem with the skylight itself, although I will use a garden hose to confirm.

[@RVgeeks]

Jim Hamilton If the only time you've seen that happen is after such a dramatic weather change, we'd suspect that it was a fluke occurrence. Testing with a garden hose is fine, but we'd suggest just keeping an eye on it and it might not occur again, except on another extreme weather event, particularly dramatic temperature change.

[@alexczajkowski5162]

Great video, made the process very clear and easy to follow. Thanks for posting this.

[@vernroach3413]

Thanks...I was wondering about shooting news screws in, now I know I can...The inside ones for the trim are still a question...I was told no...Use old holes, stay with short screws...Short screws make sense, but ones there now are rounded out and I'm following up on another's poor installation...Leaks everywhere...The guy tried, bad back, so I'll give'em a break, huh.

[@TheSecretElohim]

I love the video. I have Cheney express 2003. Could I add a skylight to my van by doing the same process as far as sealing ?

[@RVgeeks]

Don’t see why not. Our skylight has still never leaked a drop after all these years.

[@RVgeeks]

Hi JoAnn. The first place to check is with the manufacturer, but there's also a place that has a ton of RV skylights in various sizes. The name of the company is BriRus. Just visit brirus(dot)com to see if they have your size.

[@williamshivelle8287]

Enjoyed the video! I noticed that the self tap screws were very long. My roof is aluminum on 1/4" plywood, on styrofoam and the old one was put on with 51 (count them again) 1/4" Dia pop-rivets. New one has 32 holes. Each one had to be drilled out. They did not seem very long. The replacement skylight reccomends 1/8" dia Pan head screws. What length screw would you suggest. Thanks

[@RVgeeks]

Our screws did seem a lot longer than needed, didn't they?! But since that's what came on the RV originally, we went ahead an re-used them, since of course they didn't come through the ceiling the first time. lol Since your original skylight had rivets, we'd suggest using the shortest screws that you're comfortable will do the job. The total roof thickness is surely more than 1/4, but why risk going too deep?!

[@williamshivelle8287]

RVgeeks Thanks, I tried 1/2" long Pan head sheet metal screws that I already and they held well so I went ahead with them. I tightened by hand snugly and then did a final pass tight enough to see a little flex in the plastic. The skylight is an SR brand and came with SB 140 caulk. The install instructions mentioned Butyl tape, not the caulk - odd. Oh, I used an oscilliating saw with a flat scraper blade to remove the old caulk and it worked great. If I had to remove it with a hand scraper (it just pushed the caulk around) I would still be at it! Thanks again

[@tc75480]

You are not going to find mineral spirits in southern California. Another video recommended charcoal lighter fluid as a substitute. Tried it and it did work. My new skylight did not come with instructions. Ended up using self-leveling lap sealer. Time will tell me if it works.

[@heretodaygone2morrowrving231]

You could use dicor lap sealant as well I did my Skylight today placed it with a frosted one for a clear one now we get lot more natural light in our shower area what I did was placed a liberal amount of dicor over the existing screw holes I then placed my skylight on making sure that I sealed it very well once the screws were installed I then took Eternabond tape and put that around the edges and covering the screws to the edge . I then used dicor lap sealer around the tape edges . The install loose great an s I'm sure it will have no issues

[@RVgeeks]

We certainly hope you don't end up having a problem, but before using Dicor, it's important to check to see what the skylight is made of. Most are made of a plastic that will react poorly with Dicor, potentially causing premature aging and/or cracking. That's why the skylight manufacturers specifically call for Surebond SB140 (also called Brirus SB140), and say you should not put the plastic in contact with Dicor.

[@PAWS4U]

Will one tube of the SB-140 suffice for this task or should I get more? Thanks. Great video. Just ordered replacement skylight and getting ready.

[@RVgeeks]

As I recall, one tube should be good…. But if it’s not too pricey, a second tube as a backup wouldn’t hurt… just in case. 😉

[@PAWS4U]

@@RVgeeks my thought exactly. Thanks for the quick reply 👍🏻👊🏻

[@GaryYoung-eq1ph]

How 2 get of the fiberglass that was used?

[@roberthall7206]

Simple enough. Thank you for the great video!!

[@Oldxlineman]

Is there a standard size screw for self taping screws like you advise getting extra before replacing the skylight. What is your source , I prefer ordering from Amazon. Hopefully at the same time I order the SB-140

[@RVgeeks]

Hi Ron! The best thing we can suggest is to remove a single screw to see what size it is before starting the project. That way, if you want to have any new ones match exactly, you'll already know what the current ones are like (how long, what size and type, etc). Although they don't have to match exactly. I think ours are #8 x 1.5" self-drilling screws. Ones with a hex head like these are nice: amzn.to/3srHaW3

[@Oldxlineman]

@@RVgeeks Well we all know what the first 3 letters of assume are, and it made me one. After measuring my skylight to get an idea of how much SB_140 to get I noticed my skylight have no screws to hold it down. The skylight itself is in good condition as far as I can tell. My plan was to remove it and reseal and reinstall it. We have a slight leak in the area, not exactly where. In one area the skylight is not completely flush with the roof. The camper is only 5 years old. I had thought about drilling holes all around the skylight while I have it off and the install them when I put it back on. But I have know idea what the screws would attach themselves to ? Your thoughts on how I should proceed. It's a Forest River hard side popup. Thanks, appreciate your videos

[@RVgeeks]

Hi Ron. We haven’t seen one without screws, but our general rule of thing is to replace any part as close as possible to the way the manufacturer did. So it they didn’t use any screws, we might not either. Or, if there was a problem with your original installation, (like a leak), then maybe correct that initial design defect by adding a few screws as needed.

[@rodneywood1656]

I thank you for your video on replacing my sky light. I changed in and out. I still get condensation!! I’ve taken it apart, dried out, sealed again. I still get condensation!!! Help!

[@RVgeeks]

Hi Rodney. Is there any chance either one of the skylight sections, inside or outside, is cracked?

[@OmarTheTraveler]

Thanks for the helpful video. If you're still watching comments on this thread, I wonder if you would have an answer for me. I just followed these instructions on a TPO rubber roof, and a couple hours later I see the sealant has shrunk and stretched the roof membrane upward around the edge of the skylight. Is this normal, or is it something to worry about?

[@RVgeeks]

If it’s just a little bit of puckering in some small areas, you’re probably OK. But if it extends too far out away from the skylight, it sounds like it’s possible that you used a little too much mineral spirit or other solvent and ended up softening the adhesive that holds the TPO roof membrane to the underlying roof structure. We’d keep an eye on it and see if it changes over time. If it looks like it’s spreading, you may need to remove that skylight and then reapply an adhesive under the TPO membrane to hold it down so it doesn’t pucker.

[@annabradshaw1324]

What happens if the screws will not tighten down? They all went down and it was in a new screw hole. I put the sealant down on the screw. Will the sealant hold the screws down?

[@RVgeeks]

When you say it will not tighten down, do you mean that it won’t go in all the way, like something is preventing the screw from all the way in? Or do you mean that the screws continue to turn like they’re stripped?

[@annabradshaw1324]

@@RVgeeksThey continue to turn, I don't think they are stripped. I just think they might not be catching on anything. I put the caulking on them, and around the outside of the skylight, so I hope that will keep them from popping up.

[@RVgeeks]

​@@annabradshaw1324 Hi Anna. I think we know what might be happening here. We're guessing that there is an aluminum frame surrounding the skylight, and that the screws you are using are self-tapping, but not self-drilling. Self-tapping screws come to a sharp point, and can be used in either wood or plastic or other softer materials, or in metal..... but ONLY if the metal is pre-drilled with a small pilot hole. That's because without that hole pre-drilled, the sharp point of the screw simply pushes up against the metal, but has no way to get the threads started. Self-DRILLING screws actually have tips that drill through the metal and start their own hole, even in the hardest materials, without pre-drilling. We'd suggest that if all of your screws can simply continue to be turned/tightened, without actually tightening into anything, you should take one of them out and see if it has a sharp point. If so, that's likely the problem. Even if they're the same screws you removed from the original skylight, the factory may have pre-drilled the original holes for them. If so, they wouldn't have needed self-drillers. Rather than pre-drill, we'd suggest buying a supply of self-drillers that are the same length and diameter as the self-tappers that are almost certainly what you have now, and starting over again. The sealant by itself isn't very secure without screws holding it in place. Take one of the screws to the hardware store and tell them you want the same size screws in self-drilling and they'll know what you need. You might have to clean everything up again and start over, but it's better than losing your skylight or developing a leak. One last thing.... to get self-drillers started (and tightened), you really need a cordless drill with the proper bit in the end to screw/drive the screws in. Hope this helps. Let us know how you make out.

[@annabradshaw1324]

Thank you

[@johnknestis3851]

Could you use Eternabond tape instead of the sealant for the final sealing? Dicor type sealant looks so terrible.

[@RVgeeks]

You could use Eternabond, but it will *never* come off. We’re okay with Dicor, since it’s only used on the roof, so nobody sees it. 😉

[@donkostyal9041]

Today I replaced my skylight. I got the new dome and sealant straight from Newmar. I watched your video several times--it was very good. My only problem was I didn't have any help and I didn't climb down from the roof during the install to see if I had placed it correctly. So, it was off by a hair or two and a few screws missed end the sheet metal frame. Also, I didn't!t notice that 2 corners had 2 screw holes close together--a difference from the original. No instructions with it but I assume those corners should be the leading edge, but I messed that up too. So, I guess I am going to order another tube of sealant and do it again--I am just Leary I didn't get it fastened down enough to be fright?..

[@RVgeeks]

+Don Kostyal Hi Don. Sorry for the delayed response. KZbin somehow just decided to notify me about your comment. :( Sorry you had difficulty getting this installed. We didn't climb down off the roof to check the positioning of ours either, so it sounds like we might have a skylight that overlaps the opening in the roof more than your does? You shouldn't have to sorry about any of the new holes lining up with the old ones (they probably won't). As long as all of the screws are firmly into the roof (as opposed to falling loosely into the edge of the skylight opening), and you set it into sealant all the way around, you should be good to go. Here's a suggestion that might help: Try setting the new skylight down onto the roof where it looks like it should go, and use a pencil to mark where the outside edges are. Then lift the skylight up to see if the pencil marks are equal distance from the opening all the way around. As a double check, place the skylight back in place ad use the pencil to make a little dot on the roof through each screw hole. Now life the skylight again to see exactly where the holes will be. As long as they're all in the roof material, and not accidentally too close to, or in, the skylight opening, you should be good to go. When you screw in the new skylight, all of the old holes will be covered with sealant, so again, don't worry about using any of the old holes. The screws should tighten properly into the roof, since they'll each be making a brand new hole as you install them. Hope this is clear, and helps. And again, sorry for the delayed response. Hope you haven't already done the job... or if you did, hope it was a success!

[@donkostyal9041]

Thanks! I actually did the "re-do" 2 days ago and I did as you suggest here (although I used a Sharpie and not a pencil) and this time I hit metal all the way around! I also climbed down and looked up to make sure it looked right from both sides before applying the sealant and screws. Really appreciate your videos!

[@RVgeeks]

Don Kostyal That's great Don! So glad you got it worked out. :)

[@joannmartinez6229]

Your video was very helpful my ony problem is finding the replacment part for my 1996 fleetwood wilderness trailer skylight any suggestions on where to purchase ? Thanks

[@jeffrandall2828]

I just installed a new SR Skylight using this Butyl SB 140 caulk you mentioned that came with the Skylight. I have a rubber roof. But I noticed after the install the instructions said to apply a Butyl Tape for the bottom of the lip of the skylight but I used the caulk instead. Will that be an issue later on and do I need to redo the install using the Butyl Tape? Thank you. Jeff

[@RVgeeks]

You're fine Randall. The butyl tape might have been a bit easier to use during the install, but it does the same thing that SB140 does (sealing/waterproofing). Our skylight has been fine with just SB140 for years. Just check it annually for any hairline cracking (just like Dicor) and touch up as needed.

[@jeffrandall2828]

RVgeeks Great Thanks!

[@shaneeyvonne]

I have a poly fabric across the top of roof we're the hole is for the skylight. I'm guess there was either a skylight there before or maybe a air conditioner. All that to ask, do you think it's safe to cut out the poly fabric where the hole is and place the skylight in, given the sealant involved in the whole process? Thank you!

[@RVgeeks]

Hi Shanee. We don't think this would be a problem, but there's probably a couple of things you'd want to do BEFORE going ahead and cutting into the roof. First, is there any obvious sign of a matching opening on the inside of the RV that was patched, too? If not, cutting into the roof is only half the battle... you'll have to cut through the liner on the inside of the RV, too. And you don't know if there are wires or duct work in the way that you wouldn't want to cut through. Second, we'd measure the opening on the roof and check to see that there's a compatibly-sized skylight that you can install to cover the hole. You can check out a place like this: www.eztopsworldwide.com/rvskylights.htm (there are plenty of others if you Google). Other than that, you should be OK.

[@TrentAlvarez]

What's your advice if a person is considering installing a new skylight where there was no sky light before? I would like to install one in the kids bunk room and the kitchen.

[@RVgeeks]

+Trent Alvarez Wow! I'd certainly want to do a lot of homework first. The potential for conflicting with electrical, structural or other components would certainly be a big deal, especially if you'd already started cutting a hole and discovered that things were in the way! Is your manufacturer still in business? If so, maybe you could consult with them about your plans and find out if a schematic is available.

[@entrthedragon]

Great video, just the right amount of caulking. The amount of caulking they put on these at the factory is ridiculous, it's overkill, a waste of money and a PITA to get off. Yes, agreed on the screws. Mine is s 2013 Starcraft and the screw holes on the factory seem hand drilled so in no way line up with the new ones. The new one is OEM so no excuses there. I have to say, looking at the workmanship all around the camper, Starcraft is not quality controlled. They must have unskilled workers building their campers, at least mine was.

[@Triggerfish70]

Same with my Keystone Montana Mountaineer. It's needed so many repairs and when you get into the repair the poor quality materials and workmanship revealed is astonishing.

[@GaryYoung-eq1ph]

What about fiberglass, around the screws, same way?

[@RVgeeks]

Yes indeed (our roof IS fibreglass!)

[@DutchStar443]

Guys, it's time for me to do this one. Where did you get your new dome?

[@DutchStar443]

I forgot to also ask: How many tubes of SB-140 did you use?

[@RVgeeks]

Ordered ours directly from Newmar.

[@RVgeeks]

One might make it, but have a second tube on hand just in case.

[@karendensmore9828]

My trailer has an aluminum roof. Should I use the SB-140, or is there another sealant to use?

[@RVgeeks]

Yes indeed, SB-140 is the right sealant for you. It's safe for the skylight plastic and designed to stay flexible to allow for movement between dissimilar materials, such as fiberglass, plastic and any kind of metal too.

[@cliffcarlo180]

I have been looking for something just like the dome you fitted to that RV. I have a flat fibreglass aviary roof and want to install a plain plastic skylight. I'm having trouble locating a supplier and was wondering if you could provide a web address for something just like the item you just used. I'm in the UK by the way. Many thanks.

[@RVgeeks]

Hi Cliff. A company called "Bri-rus" makes a wide assortment of them. Here's a link to PPL, which sells a lot of them. www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-vents/rv-skylight.htm. Not sure if they ship to the UK, but if you Google "Bri-rus skylights" you should find a supplier. Hope this helps.

[@jimgior]

Hey guys (geeks)... I find myself having to change out my skylight, can you tell me what length and diameter self tapping screws you guys used. Thanks for all the tips

[@RVgeeks]

Hi James! We actually just reused all of the self drilling screws that were in the original skylight. They are about 3/4” to 1 inch long, with self drilling tips. Sorry I don’t know exactly what size they are, but if you remove one from your current skylight, you can pick up a few extras before installing the new one, just in case you want to add more.

[@johnk144]

Thanks for the video. I will be replacing two, 22"x38" skylights on a rubber roof. What would be an estimate for how many tubes of Surebond I should order? Thanks again.

[@RVgeeks]

22x38 is pretty big! We used almost an entire tube on the skylight you see in the video, which I'm going to estimate is about 2 feet square. That means that a tube will cover about 8 linear feet with a little to spare. That of course takes care of the bead that's put down before the skylight, plus the final coating over the top edge and the screws. A 22x38 has 120" or 10 linear feet, and you've got two of them. I just went outside to see how much is left in the tube, and there's no way that I could have squeezed another 2 feet's worth of coverage out of that. If a tube covers 8' and you've got 20', you'll need three tubes, which will give you plenty to be sure you've got it covered, plus some to spare, without buying more than needed. I think that's the way I'd go. Hope this helps and hope your replacement goes smoothly.

[@johnk144]

RVgeeks Wow. Thanks for such a quick reply. It's much appreciated. The 22"x38"ers aren't just big, they're almost impossible to find. I've only found one supplier that offers them. They're at eztopsworldwide.com, just as an fyi. My only real concern is in taking the old sealant off of the rubber roof. The manufacturer used a ton, so getting it all off without tearing the roof will be a challenge. Thanks again for your timely response.

[@RVgeeks]

johnk144 No prob John. Happy to help. Just be careful with a rubber roof not to use too much mineral spirits when trying to remove old sealant. Soaking it can cause the adhesive that holds the rubber material down to the underlying roof to weaken. Better to leave a little of the old sealant than to ruin the rubber. I'm familiar with eztopsworld because somewhere on their website, they have a link to this video. :)

[@johnk144]

RVgeeks Wanted to say thanks again, guys. The skylight install went great. No problem at all. I'm using all stainless steel screws so I don't have to deal with rusted out screws in the future. I still have many structural issues to deal with, but I'm happy with where I'm at. As I'm dealing with a rubber roof that has some issues, I'm wondering what I need to apply to the roof to keep its integrity, as well as what process is needed to ensure it's strength in the future. What would you recommend for re-coating a rubber roof? Any input would be very helpful. Thanks!

[@RVgeeks]

Glad to hear that things went well, John. Stainless screws are a great idea too. As far as roof repair or replacement, we have no experience with that, but here are a couple of links to get you started thinking in the right direction: www.doityourselfrv.com/rv-roof-replacement-line-x/ and www.rvroof.com We don't know what these methods are like, so not endorsing anything here, but just thought this might give you a place to start researching. Best of luck.

[@aaronweise360]

Where can I get a cheaper dome skylight for my trailer? Most are selling for more than $100 bucks and I cant even afford that right now.

[@RVgeeks]

Hey Aaron. You might want to check for an RV salvage yard in your area (or travels)... they're likely your best bet to find a cheaper option for replacing that skylight. Here's a list (rtrvg.com/blog/2017/07/22/used-rv-parts-and-salvage-yards-by-state/) but you can try Googling in your area, too.

[@aaronweise360]

@@RVgeeks thank you!

[@gldomme]

Is there a source for various sizes of skylights

[@RVgeeks]

Hi MT Geo... we got ours from Newmar when we were at the factory, but we've seen Specialty Recreation (www.specrec.com) mentioned by others in online forums, so you may want to check them out.

[@gldomme]

@@RVgeeks Thank you!!!

[@gwenturner2738]

one quick question - what if the skylight isn't "screwed" down, just chalked? is it the same process, just no screws?

[@RVgeeks]

Hi Gwen! We've never heard of a skylight that's only held down with adhesive. Did you buy your RV new or used? If used, it's possible that it was replaced already, but not installed the same way it was before. We'd suggest contacting the manufacturer to ask about this. If it DOES only use adhesive, it would be very important to use the right type, since it's not only responsible for waterproofing, but for adhesion as well... and also so it doesn't damage the roof material (just in case you have a "rubber" roof).

[@gwenturner2738]

I was surprised too, however, I don't believe they have been replaced and I have found replacement skylights that come without screw holes. I will research it more. thanks!

[@scottwall4669]

So cannot recall if here, Pippis, or the Wynns but advising again those in cold weather, real cold, you can put the SB 140 in the microwave for 30 seconds to soften it up ONLY if the tube has a plastic end on top of the barrel. If it is tin, heat in oven 150 degrees for 3 minutes, right before applying. When cold that stuff will not work well. I went thru many a skylight as a single guy with a 76 Chevy C-10 surfer van conversion. First one while waxing the roof on my new van. I did not want finger prints on new wax so I leaned on plastic. Thru I went. Number 2 was a parking garage in San Francisco, trying to sneeky camp with some chick named Shawna near Lombardi street and I nailed an iron pipe. Third...watching the Perseid meteor shower at Mt. Whitney with Lynda..she used it as a pillow and you guys wont care to hear how that got broke!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Great vid as usual!!!

[@RVgeeks]

HaHa! Sounds like your poor skylights have seen a ton of action! ;-)

[@edmcneese4346]

How long does this take

[@RVgeeks]

Should be doable in an hour.

[@frankposterello1628]

My skylight doesn't an inner / double wall like yours does. Does that matter?

[@RVgeeks]

I can't see why it would matter, as long as the exterior part is the same.

[@dcfire2895]

Great video! Thank you!

[@dumluk1984]

All that white goop on the screwheads and perimeter looks awful, and will soon show lots of dirt. Do they make the same sealant in black?

[@RVgeeks]

As virtually every RV in the world has a white roof, the black lines and patches created by using anything other than a light color would REALLY look awful, so it's not surprising that we've never heard of black Dicor. It's only used on the roof, so nobody will see it up there. We're far more interested in preventing leaks that having the seams on our roof look perfect. Dicor is THE correct product for the job and every RV roof looks like this. Don't worry about it.

[@dumluk1984]

You will certainly see it gooped onto a black skylight on an A-frame roof, whether its up or down.

[@RVgeeks]

Never thought about a roof that tilts up! LOL I just checked and could not find either Surebond SB-140 Skylight Sealant (for the skylight) or Dicor (for most everything else on the roof) in black. There might be some other brand available in black, but I'm not aware of it.

[@OmarGarcia-cp4ri]

2

[@bobgilbert9018]

I had to replace my bathroom skylight. This video was very helpful Thank You!

[@RivertownWoodcraft]

why is there a second window inside it?

[@RVgeeks]

For better insulation, like double-pane windows.

[@broseph13]

maybe easier to just use eternabond for EPDM roof? scraping the old stuff is very difficult

[@RVgeeks]

That’s a viable option.

[@JoseRodriguez-nz6yq]

How to replace sky light and the roof area is damage the wood and panel in side

[@RVgeeks]

+Jose Rodriguez Hi Jose. Not sure I understand. Are you making a comment or asking a question? Can you clarify? Thanks!

[@LorenaMCast]

do you use butyl tape before installing?

[@RVgeeks]

We don’t recall, Nena (and we’re on bad cellular, so we can’t watch the video to remind ourselves), but we recommend following the instructions from the skylight manufacturer. You don’t want to use sealants/materials that might react with the skylight plastic and cause it to fail prematurely.

[@speedboat67]

I'm replacing some acrylic skylight on my roof. I've heard that caulking can attack the acrylic and cause it to crack. I contacted Ge, Dap, locktite, and Surebond. Surebond said plastics are tricky and I should test it before I use. I should check with a contractor. So I'm encourged by your article. I'm assuming your skylights are acrylic.

[@RVgeeks]

Hi Maury. We are almost certain that our skylight is indeed acrylic. And you are right on about skylights being susceptible to damage from most sealants. Thats why we use and recommend Surebond SB-140 skylight sealant - also known as BriRus SB-140: amzn.to/2SIdKjk - which is specifically designed to safely work with skylight material.

[@459SuperX]

We turned this into a drinking game for every time he said “skylight”. We’re well on way to drunk.

[@RVgeeks]

Awesome! Bottoms up! 😊

[@RethaMeredith]

Replacement skylight

[@lisarogier8839]

Very helpful. Thank you so much for posting! :-)

[@ronaldbertin9455]

My 3.5 yr old KZ SPORTSMAN SKYLIGHT JUST DISINTERGRATED , WHAT A PIECE OF JUNK

[@MzFruitarian]

Thanks for the helpful video :-)

[@WillBelden]

Too bad the butyl caulk didn't come in black, huh?

[@rusty.spires7931]

YeSir.u.The.Man...

[@efboiz5302]

*Screwgun*

[@floridablackbear7318]

:)