How to Replace & Bleed Clutch Slave Cylinder MINI Cooper 2002-2006

2002-2006 MINI Cooper S won't go in 1st gear? See how to replace & bleed the clutch slave cylinder. Similar procedure for non-S.
Get a clutch slave cylinder here:
amzn.to/2IHbg32
Get brake fluid here:
I like ATE 200 for street use:
amzn.to/ZzM0AN
If you'll be putting the car on the race track, Motul 600 is a better choice:
amzn.to/1eDp4s0
Get the power bleeder here:
Get this one that includes European/US adapters & clamp on adapter
amzn.to/1ClGSmE
If you just want the European adapter, buy the standalone bleeder:
amzn.to/1J1wZYb
and the European adapter:
amzn.to/1HJePhg
(If you are VERY careful, you can also use this adapter standalone with your air compressor with the regulator adjusted to deliver less than 15psi) #modmini #modminiKZbin

[@dougrippe33]

All I can say is you sir are single handedly keeping so many Minis on the road. As much as it sucks to be back on the KZbins again because something else has failed, we are all super lucky to have these absolutely fantastic DIY tutorials to walk those of us that aren’t mechanics easily through. Not sure if you still post and monitor your page, but just wanted to give a huge thank you.

[@manuelguerrero3089]

It's always good to find videos out there that go straight to the point and skip all the talking of just nonsense. Thanks for the great info on how to replace this part on my car

[@MortonLuvz2drum]

How about this point. The line is corroded just before the slave cylinder. Hoping that I can connect a new piece of line to it.

[@sunshineirrigation]

You're the best! I've lost count how many things I've boldly tried and succeeded with no experience or business trying simply by watching your videos (head gasket, super charger, transmission, clutch, flywheel, fuel filter, sub frame/ control arms/ grommets, drive shaft and a/c squirrel cage motor to name a few). Though I've watched countless videos for my beloved/and occasionally hated R53, I could not have done it without you and your calm and occasionally wry humor. Thank you so much!

[@scottmerry8567]

This video is excellent. Mod MINI, you have the best-edited and most informative videos out there! Well done.

[@mikewallace3549]

I just installed a new slave cylinder in my 2005 Mini Cooper S because it was "sticky" as I let the clutch out. I figured that the slave cylinder was worn out, so I replaced it. Worked for 3 hours trying to get the air out. Finally gave up and made an appointment at my local Mini Cooper dealer. I really hated to do that, so I Googled this subject and this was the first video to come up. IT WORKED!!! I followed these steps and got the air out. I promptly ran into the house and happily cancelled my appointment. Thank you for a great video!!!

[@ModMINI]

Good to hear. It's not easy to get the air out. People ask even after watching the video and I basically have to tell them to try again.

[@mikew3922]

@@ModMINI Mini Engineers did us a great disservice by designing such a crappy slave cylinder. Clearly they never had to bleed what they designed. Thanks again for the great and informative video.

[@scottcook8443]

I'd like to thank you as yesterday me and my son was struggling to bleed his clutch. I watched your video last night and this morning I made the tool and bled great a huge huge thankyou from the UK 🇬🇧

[@brandongustafson7497]

When you try and put 2 seals inside the line and cylinder you can fight it all day and it will never go together! Thankyou for saving my day and money!

[@emeraldaisle2927]

Thanks a million. Bled mine after watching. Earlier that day bled brakes and struggled with clutch slave cylinder. The only way for me to do the bleed is with a hand vacuum pump as the 2 person method doesn't work here . Jacked-up the front with the driver side jack higher than the passenger side to get a little more slope and reduce the chance of getting air into the clutch slave cylinder line at the master cylinder. I used the pipe strap and screws as you. After 3 tries I got it done. Thanks!

[@JohnSmith-qd1hi]

person helping me is an automotive student. He is now considering career change. we started this project 8am finished 6pm and it was most definitely slave as once the old got in my hands it just crumbled broken plastic. however saga continues i still need to bleed it it as its still not running. we watched your video on complete clutch replacement once we saw this video we finally found it. thank goodness as we considered turning car on its side. lol

[@ModMINI]

+John Smith Wow, that's an ordeal. This shouldn't take more than an hour once you know how.

[@tobym5]

Thanks for the video, I did this very same job a couple of days ago on a 2013 Mini Cooper D, I was initially going to use the method you show but decided to prime the slave cylinder instead. Left the old cylinder attached to the pipe but hanging detached from the gearbox, using a small funnel I poured in fluid to the new cylinder with its piston extended, poured in until it was brimmed with air bubbles rising and out, I also worked the piston back and forth a little (not sure if this helped push any air out), then unscrewed the bleed nipple to let a bit run out there, locked it off, connected the new pipe whilst keeping the slave cylinder vertical, opened the bleed nipple again to allow a gravity fed bleed, locked that off and fitted to car. Clutch works well now with no pedal sticking to the floor, it's also much smoother.

[@nintendiehard]

I"m still not sure if this is my problem or not, but I'm VERY thankful for this video. The most complicated thing I've ever done on a car was change the spark plugs, so I'm not all that much of a car guy. But this makes me think that I can actually handle this job if it comes to it. Thanks for going into such detail with the whole job.

[@cobralsc2361]

You have the best videos! Great info, key video shots, excellent explanations, and the content is always what I'm looking for as a MINI Cooper owner. Thank you so much!

[@jessicaferreira6059]

You are THE GUY!!!! I can't thank you enough for getting me through a few jobs with my mini including my clutch!! Without you it would not have been possible! So thank you. Saying that, I'm wondering if you have a video or if you can do one on adjusting the clutch? I can't find one that will walk me through it like your videos Do. Thank you in advanced!

[@ModMINI]

There is nothing that can be adjusted on the clutch. If not engaging as expected, it might need the hydraulics bled. If that doesn't work, you have something going on inside the bell housing (broken throwout bearing, bent/broken pressure plate spring, broken release fork, failed clutch disk, etc.)

[@jessicaferreira6059]

That would all make sense but I replaced my clutch a year ago (throw out bearing was completely disintegrated). Every time I go through a gear change if I'm on the accelerator too much it will rev high. But if I let it go for a couple seconds, at most, it will rev normal again, regardless of how much I'm on the accelerator. Any ideas with these symptoms?

[@ModMINI]

That will happen sometimes if you execute a poor shift. Use the clutch just long enough to match engine and axle speeds and then get off it. Never rev above 2500 rpm or so with clutch pedal engaged. Don't get on the accelerator until clutch is fully released.

[@JodBronson]

It's repairable I see... Stretch that spring out a bit and replace the O'Ring. THANK YOU for the bonus footage.

[@JohnSmith-qd1hi]

Its all good even though i did not get my Cooper going again yet and we spent all this time on it with all this info you post and posted I certain I will. I just don't know anything about cars but thanks to good honest people like yourself I'm learning fast. My mechanic student friend after working on this isn't sure repairing cars is for him. He's in his first semester of school but in 4 years he will be a pro, that and I'll always have a mechanic I can count on. So I'll keep encouraging him lol. oh my to disassemble once again and get the thing bleed lol. Should cut the time down considerably 2nd time around lol

[@LurgsHowToGuides]

Great Video, really useful. We have a Mini 2003 & the gearknob has started to rattle a bit. Hoping it's not the Gearbox so 1st of all I will check the condition of the Clutch Master Cylinder to see if there is a leak. Thanks.

[@weaponizecarrysystemsg2220]

I did mine today. thanks to you. Your videos are awesome. keep up the good work and keep those videos coming.

[@RichJohnstun]

Huge thank you. I just did mine today on my '06 R53. I'm not sure it was my issue yet or not, but your video made it easy to swap the part. I've had some notchyness going into 3rd and swapped the slave cylinder in hopes of fixing my issue. I've got a set of shift cables ready to go in as my next attempt if this didn't fix the issue (it's not always notchy, just sometimes.). Regardless, you're vid gave me the courage to bang this one out in an hour on a Sunday afternoon. Thanks again!

[@chappledesign]

+Rich Johnstun Did replacing the slave fix your notchiness? also, did you have to do the cables too?

[@RichJohnstun]

Replacing the slave didn't fix it, but I replaced my trans fluid with the Redline that ModMini recommended in his clutch change vid and it make a huge difference. There is a tiny bit of notchiness when it's cold, but it quickly goes away. I still haven't replaced the cables and as of right now, don't intend too based on the results of the fluid change.

[@chernova1317]

Blew my seals up whilst tryna lauch it from a standstill; amateur af i know. thanks for the video i couldn't bleed it properly before and this helped alot

[@chrisflorian4308]

Thank you very much for this video. It helps me a lot. The clutch on my tuned MINI R53 doesn't work any more. Under my car I have seen, that this safe cylinder is bleeding. Brake fluid is droping out. Now I have all the things to replace this safe cylinder. In a few hours I start with this work. I hope the clutch works with the new safe cylinder :) Greetings from Germany

[@JohnSmith-qd1hi]

you rock..... changed out my clutch about 15k and about a week ago I started noticing some shim while going into first. Not a lot but noticeable. Driving once I got going not an issue. I was on a main road and pushed in the clutch a few times just out of worry and boom went right down to the floor. Clutch went first time car would not start, period. Now it starts but cant change gears. So I had it towed and noticed some fluid leaking. Anyway long story the spring under the clutch pedal came out and after your discription with the trouble getting into first I'm 100% sure its the slave line that burst while pumping clutch. I dont work on cars but I'm going to do this today, you made this look easy... I started changing out my own pads, well why not this as well... I have nothing to lose the car is just sitting there, you rock

[@ModMINI]

+John Smith There is no spring under the clutch pedal, or at least not one strong enough to return the pedal to the normal position. All the spring force is coming from the pressure plate through the hydraulics. If there is wetness on the slave cylinder, that is most likely your problem, unless the clutch assembly is damaged and not allowing normal travel, and pressing hard on the clutch pedal caused the fluid to leak around the slave cylinder seal. You may need to repeat several times to get all the air out...

[@JohnSmith-qd1hi]

+Mod MINI ok I'm getting under the car tomorrow. I was driving and again the car shuddered in 1st sounds very much like you described. There is a spring that I have in my hand but it's great to know that this really does nothing for me as I thought that the spring had something to do with the position, now after reading its the hydraulics that does the job... I don't know this seems fairly cut n dry I mean aside from the fluids right? Every time I bring this car in for service people see $$ signs, $1000 no matter what the issue, brakes $500, fuel pump $800, and on and on... The Clutch replacement cost $1500, this however if I can do it myself for $80 I'm going to listen to you here and get this beast going. This was such a big help. I don't know what I'm doing but I'll never learn unless I do it... and wow your rock thank you for the response If I can drive this tomorrow you have no Idea of what you did by posting this. You help people, that's big... Bigger than you or I no doubt

[@JohnSmith-qd1hi]

+John Smith If you could the plastic pump bleeding bottle, where can I get this and what is it called no one I called seems to have know what this is? Do I have to pre-order this and or is there another option for me? I'm so great full for all this I have so many medical appointments. Two back surgeries, epilepsy, and many others that depend on the greatest car ever made. I need to start learning how to fix my car and I am... Replacing the windshield tomorrow and going to get this done Saturday... Thank you and let me know where I can send you a check!!

[@ModMINI]

+John Smith All the purchase links are in the video description. You can buy online. If you want to support my channel, which is very appreciated, there is a "support Mod Mini" button at the top right of the video.

[@jovitmaca]

Very awesome video. Basically followed the same steps to do my slave cylinder on my 2003 Jetta. Works like a charm. Appreciate the info.

[@jakeconstable1938]

Mine has been leaking and today the clutch felt extremely light, all of a sudden i couldn't get it into 1st, what a great video, I wonder how my mechanic will react when I suggest he watches a youtube video on how to bleed it right, lol! thanks !

[@ModMINI]

***** Definitely have him watch it, he'll waste time otherwise and charge you the labor.

[@golfernst]

This cylinder only fits Minis to production date: UP TO 7TH MONTH OF 2004. After this date a different cylinder is used! The newer slave cylinder has the bleeder valve coming straight out of the end of cylinder, not on top of cyl. Another tip, pressurise the system to 15 PSI and watch the pressure to see if it drops (leak). This should also show where leak is, if any. Now you can bleed system as per Mod Mini, which is a great video.

[@anthonyblake8881]

I bought an 02 mini S for my son. Hard to get into first and third. Had a mechanic look at it. He says clutch is fine, not sure what the problem is. Found part on ebay for $30, doing it ourselves. Thanks

[@xzox]

Usual excellent calmly explained video from mod mini. I see that there are currently 70 viewers who have their thumbs on the opposite side of their hands to everybody else.

[@TheTexasOiler]

Thanks Bud i have a porsche and this helped better visuals and your explaination is way better...

[@beagletube]

Another great video. I'll be doing mine shortly and this gives me the confidence to do the job on my own

[@JodBronson]

This guy is awesome and VERY SMART MAN !!!

[@pekkahallikainen2607]

clearly the best video detailed and how to explain everything in detail. i will do same job on a citroën c4 and it should be the same.

[@SpeedStar76]

What an excellent video, thank you. At the beginning I was like, nope that's beyond me, but I think I can do this

[@bryan8638]

Thanks for the video , very good camera angles makes this easy to understand. You should invest in some nitrile gloves though, what a messy job!

[@ModMINI]

Nitrile just tears.

[@ferdzagudelo6927]

Hey there! Two weeks ago my clutch pedal fall to the floor. Watched this, your very informative and easy to follow instructions. Soon I got the parts and tools. tackled the job. followed every single step. after the first 3 attempts of bleeding and putting it back = no pedal tension.. all over again.. this time I'm able to shift into gear. drove the car although I noticed the shifting is not smooth. needed a second press to get in gear sometimes.. any thoughts? thanks

[@Poanoofd]

you sir just helped me out bit time! i wasted couple of hours trying and failing... did it your way and worked like a charm. you tha man! i owe you!

[@l33lvr]

Hi, Do you have any videos on how to replace a clutch master cylinder on a 2002 Mini Cooper (Non-S)?

[@bencrosbie]

Thats a very handy spot for the slave cylinder easy access. Cheers for the good video

[@leomtz6820]

Great video! But How do you know if the master cylinder should be replaced?

[@ModMINI]

If you correctly bleed or replace the slave cylinder and still don't get the expected release fork movement.

[@reubenmiller7988]

Very good narration and explanation!

[@DavidDonaldson-o5g]

Ok, so I pressed the clutch pedal, and it went to the floor and left a puddle under my 2002 Mini S. I watched your video and knew I could do this, as this has been a five-year project from a wrecked Mini that I have slowly been tinkering with. Anyway got the slave cylinder and climbed under the car, and it revealed a corroded line where it clips into the cylinder; ugh. Could not find a video on how to replace the line, so I had to wing it. That took 2 hours to figure out as you have to disassemble the airbox and throttle body and are left with the "octopus" harness directly above clip I, where two lines meet. Would really like to submit a video on how to do it to help others, but you are much better and have the know-how to address this to others via video. Would you please do a clutch line replacement? Also, this completely drains out all fluid in the clutch hydraulic line via gravity (even from the cab so it took quite a lot of bleeding, even with the pressurized bleeder. Cheers, and keep up the good work.

[@markthegrea]

So I followed all the instructions and got it to work. thanks! However, the pipe leaks. I have a little rubber gasket that fits on the end of the pipe. It comes off and I have to dig it out and put it back on. It is not an o-ring, but a 2mm "tip". Is that all I need or is there another o-ring?

[@egjr2722]

Perfectly executed, and exactly what I needed!

[@allovruracing9404]

Very nice job! START TO FINISH! 👍🏼👍🏼+👍🏼

[@yulmerced4434]

wait so i just replace the clutch, bearing and sleeve and ive tried 3 different slave cyl and they all leak from the boot after doing this what am i doing wrong?

[@harveymorgan4003]

I’ve got the same issue... not sure what I’m doing wrong

[@ModMINI]

Don't over compress the cylinder.

[@justineverely9961]

2009 Mini Cooper 100,000 miles, manual transmission. With the engine running, when the clutch is released, it sits like it is in neutral. Does not even try to move. With the engine running I can run through the gears without the clutch and I hear no grinding. The shifter feels normal, not tight, not sloppy. Any ideas?? Please help.

[@stevenkingston953]

Great thanks again mod mini. Let the project commence

[@Nxaall]

Would it make a different if my car was only jacked up on one side? I only have two axle stands and can’t jack it up without the back end lifting off the floor? (Question meant for the bleeding stage)

[@tassospel229]

hello i know im a little late haha, i followed this procedure perfectly as u shown and my clutch is dragging, and i can not engage gear while the car is on, I'm going to try and bleed it again soon but i was hoping you might have some insight to share

[@PaulGurhy]

cheers for this video, just gave me a good idea how to bleed my clutch that has no bleed nipple and bought my self a cheep kit like yours but use the air from the tyres :)

[@ModMINI]

Careful using that method as the pressure will be a lot higher.

[@PaulGurhy]

I noticed, lol brake fluid went every where but it worked after a few attempts, put a spare tyre on the engine so I could better control the pressure in the end by tapping the end on to the tyre valve

[@GarthGoldberg]

Excellent, well-edited video. I know how to do this job now. Thanks.

[@johnhafner1048]

Hey minimod, I did just as you explained in the video to replace the slave cylinder, which is great by the way, but the clutch pedal is still on the floor. When I start the vehicle, it has a high pitch whine like metal on metal scraping. I can't even get the vehicle into gear to take it in to get it looked at. Any thoughts on what it could be or things to check? It's bled properly, no leaks or anything like that.

[@ModMINI]

Sounds like you may have damage inside the bell housing.

[@DPain82]

Dear lord, please don't let the damage in the bell housing be my issue.

[@markd920]

Haven't replaced yet but fuck I think I have the same problem. Any updates on your bell housing?

[@ramontinoco3411]

Throughout bearing

[@pitstop.pen10]

Your a star. Thanks for the video.

[@hasaelmonty7531]

Awesome video very informative doing my clutch slave thank you so much

[@emissarii2164]

extremely helpful thanks!!!

[@scottdean6702]

This job has killed my back working on it for three days and removing about seven times. I just bought a metric o- ring kit, but I don't know the size o - ring to use.

[@golfernst]

Do you know how far cyl rod travels when extended? Can cylinder have internal leak where brake fluid goes past the piston but not leak externally? My clutch is not releasing fully. I can shift through all gears with motor off, but not with engine running. Any thoughts?'

[@JohnSmith-qd1hi]

ok it should move about an inch, that helps... I'm thinking I have to move the control arm to engage the piston or something... When I had it bled it was only moving the whole part but piston was not going in and out... ok this helps as I thought this was the case but helps to have your verification ... these instructions you gave are awesome.. Ill over the pressure bleeder for sure... The traveling mechanics I offered them $50 to bleed all the parts are removed all the work is done just a bleed so they didn't show based on money and one says he had to look at it... When I hear this all I hear is $$$ $50 done I'm driving... No more leaks at all now that the part is in but I'll have to go through the entire process again, I'm becomnig a pro... You know I'm going to get this done.. I can do this...Thank you again I do not think I have any other questions but yes the pressure bleeder makes the most sense to me.. I love this dam car

[@ModMINI]

+John Smith You don't need to do anything with release fork. Just keep the thing fully compressed, angled as far upward as you can, and pressure bleed, knock on the cylinder like I did in the video. Time consuming because you have to remove it from the jig and reinstall to test each time; it might take 2-3 tries but you'll get the air out.

[@JohnSmith-qd1hi]

We will get it....i have to...thank you.... Ill order the pressure bleeder 3rd of the month...should hum after that lol

[@mikeg0810]

Hi Mod Mini Love your vids. Helped me no end in fixing my 03 MCS. Do you by any chance have a video on how to replace the Brake Servo/Booster ? I have hissing coming from the brake pedal when not pressed. I believe a seal has gone in the booster.

[@PrinceSomorin]

Could you also just replace the bad seal? I'm from the old school of many classic Minis and Mokes owned and used to rebuilding stuff.

[@ModMINI]

+OsiTech O I don't think anyone sells just the seal.

[@type670]

No problems shifting gears but when I accelerate sometimes under heavy load the engine revs go up but the car does not go any faster. Does this sound like a worn clutch or otherwise? Thanks

[@NS10011]

I got inspired to buy a mini because of your videos. I have no other way to contact you. so here it goes. I purchased a 2011 MCS, but looking to get a 03-06 for track use. I know you made a video on what to look for when buying a mini r53, but is it possible for you to make a video on major common problems r53 have and at about what mileage the problems developed. I mean problems like the power steering going suspension/engine problems (was think of an r56 07+, but this car are lemons from factory).

[@ModMINI]

+TurboKDM That video is essentially a video for what kind of common problems the cars have. I don't have a lot of time for videos these days. In a nutshell, oil leaks start very early with crank position sensor o-ring from before 40k miles in some cases. Just fix it, not a big deal. Power steering pump can go at any time. Control arm bushings wear by around 80K. Most everything else happens above 100K miles.

[@pitstop.pen10]

Pressure bled system after replacing slave and master cylinders. Still no joy after several attempts. left car overnight jacked up on slave side with piece of wood wedged between seat and pedal to hold it firmly to the floor. This morning its perfect. Car had none of the usual signs of failing clutch but garage said yep deffo clutch. Its so easy to get ripped off.

[@ModMINI]

Penny Anderson Sounds like you had air in the master. ...I hate garages.

[@milopena8952]

If you put the slave cylinder in, bleed it correctly, and the car still shifts poorly into gears, where would you look next? What’s your process? Thank you in advance.

[@victorbecerril8548]

I would suggest maybe try the clutch master cylinder next there is a second one under the dash it's recommended to change both or maybe you just need to bleed again

[@bodthemod69]

Hi thanks for the great videos really helped me out. I have a quick question about this one, if I don't have a power bleeder but I do have a helpful uncle to push down on the clutch pedal. Is it ok to bleed the clutch in the traditional way while its clamped down ? thanks

[@bluedunn374]

Just did this myself. For RHD cars you really need a power bleeder and fill it with brake fluid, because the clutch line is high in the reservoir air will creep into it, so best to have that fluid being pumped in. Also just use a tie down strap to compress the plunger, worked well for me.

[@ModMINI]

A power bleeder is always required. Be careful to avoid over-compressing the cylinder; it can damage the seal

[@MortonLuvz2drum]

@@ModMINI Any hints or tips on if you need to replace that line going to the slave? Mine has sprung a leak right there at the connection. Do they NOT give you a new O ring? As usual I am preparing for the worst, hoping for the best, and expecting it to be rather simple. The line just disappears up into engine land. I ordered a new section of line. But not sure just how for it goes, how to get to it, and where it connects. It looks like they sell three sections of it. So, I ordered the lowest section. Crossing fingers. OEM from Mini Mania.

[@ModMINI]

@@MortonLuvz2drum It connects to the master cylinder behind the clutch pedal under the dash. There may be another break point under the airbox. Check realoem.com for schematic and part number. If you search R53 used clutch slave cylinder on ebay, you might get lucky and find one where they left the line attached but cut off and you can harvest the seal.

[@MortonLuvz2drum]

@@ModMINI Thanks. I was looking at a diagram on minimania that showed three separate lines which apparently connect together. If following that line becomes a problem, I am prepared to cut what I need off of the new one and use that, but I'd just as soon not. 04 Cooper S Thanks for the reply. You are a Mini legend. I'm thinking it's front end service mode again? I should replace bushings this time while I'm down there. 234,372 miles!

[@MortonLuvz2drum]

@@ModMINI Got slave and lower tube off. How far should the release fork travel on the outside? I'm surprised just how little it moves. Like, barely a couple of millimeters. Still waiting on parts from minimania.

[@suxtaposition]

I got a new clutch slave cylinder and it leaks at the connection of the hydraulic line. How do I fix it?

[@lindsayd6962]

You said in another video not to mix old with new fluid. Should I drain my system before refilling the brake fluid.

[@Christopher-kj9us]

Before I have problems going to reverse but now won't go to any gear is a manual transmission

[@rammyfernando]

Can you please show us a master pump replacement and inner operation thanks

[@brianh4627]

Hey thank you for always post great mini content. Question…have you ever run into one of the slave cylinder mounts breaking free from the transmission? If so, will welding it back on work and hold?

[@ModMINI]

you would need a skilled aluminum welder who could probably make it stronger than original

[@1982nsu]

@@ModMINI I'm very grateful for your no-nonsense and to the point video. Question... in your slave cylinder would it be feasible to replace the worn out "O" ring?

[@ModMINI]

@@1982nsu I doubt it. You won't know the correct seal specification and the replacement slave cylinders are cheap enough anyway.

[@alconk7129]

Hello, really enjoying your videos! New to the Mini community as I just bought a '05 S with 69k miles. Been reading up alot and watching videos about these cars to educate myself. Question though my clutch is what I think is very stiff, is this normal for these cars? Shifts fine and nothing wrong just never drove a Mini S before. Thanks

[@ModMINI]

Yes they are stiff as they get old, they are not as stiff when new.

[@scottrager6861]

Hey Mod Mini thanks for the video I'm doing an 02 non S throwout bearing can you give me a list of parts and #s thanks a lot for the video you really explain things well

[@sk5e504]

Awesome video thanks man

[@593759375937]

Very well made video! Well done and thanks!

[@IamMagPie]

As I wrote in another comment, I have changed brakepipes, hoses, calipers, pads, rotors and brake fluid in my belowed R53. Thank you to MOD MINI for your advise. You were right. Everything OK now. Another question from me: some recommend changing the fluid every 2-3 years. Is tthis a good interval, or should I get a glykol tester to check if I can postphone my next flush even longer? Should I also flush the clutch slave cylinder now to change the fluid in ths pipe?

[@ModMINI]

IamMagPie 2-3 years is a decent interval for brake fluid. Clutch system doesn't get nearly as hot and is made out of plastic. I don't think it is as important to bleed/flush the clutch hydraulics.

[@IamMagPie]

***** Thank you. Sounds right - if it is plastic, it can't corrode.

[@justin_3027]

Hey Modmini, just a quick question! I did a clutch replacement on my 06 R53 from stock to a solid valeo kit. While watching this video to bleed my new slave cylinder, I noticed that the arm for the clutch fork was compressing the slave cylinder pretty far, almost fully. I put a valeo clutch kit in mine and I noticed that the slave cylinder is only compressed about halfway. I can feel the spring return when I let off the pedal, so I do believe it’s installed correctly. I guess my question is: does the valeo pressure plate have less travel than the stock? I’m scared I’ll have to drop the whole subframe and transmission again if I installed it incorrectly, thanks!

[@JohnSmith-qd1hi]

yes not so bad but complete filter and housing needed to be removed and complete battery and housing removed. I mentioned getting clutch being replaced today not so sure as the old slave although crumbled once removed it sure looked new?? This is why I didn't bring it to a garage to begin with.

[@ModMINI]

+John Smith Usually slave cylinder will be leaking if it is bad.

[@Tyani-sz6cg]

Wonder if you could help me. I had to replace my booster, master cylinder, and slave cylinder on my 03 mini that had been sitting for a few years. I bled the braking system, then proceeded to replace the slave clutch and bleed with a power bleeder. Now the clutch pedal is super soft and only pushes the slave a tiny bit, after fully depressing the clutch. Nowhere near enough to even start the car. What did I do wrong?

[@ModMINI]

Still air in there. Bleed again. Worst case, raise the slave above the master to ensure bubbles go up and out. (Bend hard line slightly if necessary)

[@toyotoe3732]

Thank you for this video. The whole of the engine oil sump pan appeared to be covered in a film of oil. Is this likely to be a symptom of a leaking crankshaft position sensor O ring or leaking valve cover gasket?

[@ModMINI]

Almost certainly it is a crank position sensor o-ring. Sometimes it is a PCV blowby coming out of a leaking supercharger inlet tube gasket.

[@warwickdean]

I would like to rebleed my peddle for a piece of mind, do i just simply compress the piston all of the way in first, then loosen the bleed nipple and get someone to press the clutch pedal slowly? Then tighten as the fluid flow stops, then release pedal? Thanks again buddy

[@ModMINI]

+Warwick Dean That should work, although you should probably put some grease around the bleed nipple and attach a long clear tight fitting tube to ensure no air works its way in. It's very easy to make things worse...

[@sagemodenaruto07]

Very good video!

[@onuralpciftci4208]

Firslty ,Thanks for this video.I also have a2002 r50 cooper it is really hard to get reverse gear and also sometimes, first gear.Furthermore , the biting point is quite high and actually bites in the 1/4 of the clutch motion range.So ,I was just wondering that damaged clutch slave cylinder can cause high biting point. Thank You...

[@ModMINI]

Damaged slave usually caused difficulty getting into 1st and R and clutch engages almost immediately. If your slave is not leaking, you probably have worn or damaged clutch. On the R50, I see lots of throwout bearing failures.

[@joe5409]

Great video, just had someone change the slave clutch for me and now am not able to put into gear at all. He said "looks like the clutch was ready to go out" ( I don't think so). I'm going to redo the job myself. Can you tell me what the o-ring size is, I think he probably didn't remove from the old part. Thanks!

[@ModMINI]

They can be very hard to bleed and usually require multiple tries. Worst case you may need to raise up above height of the reservoir, which could require some disassembly including possibly sliding the modular front end forward. The o ring is there. If it wasn't, all the fluid would have already leaked out.

[@creapyXturtle]

Please show us how to change a fuel pump. I have a 2002 Mini Cooper S and would really appreciate it if you could do it on that model, thanks.

[@ModMINI]

+Santi Peralta It's almost the same as changing fuel filter with just an extra wire connector and one more hose. Hardest part is getting the cover off the tank. See my fuel filter video.

[@creapyXturtle]

+Mod MINI thank you I will try it, wish me luck!!

[@yukinoinu]

Hey Kirk! So I don't know if my clutch is dying or my slave is dying or I am actually just getting use to my clutch. So it feels like my clutch is activating a lot sooner closer to the floor.... It's not slipping, but just feels light with my foot, I still cannot press it down with my hand easily. I know the mini's have short activation and not that long of clutch travel.

[@ModMINI]

+yuki no inu That maybe early sign of throwout bearing failure.

[@pauld7379]

Thanks so much for your help! I've now got my Mini with a real Mini/BMW shop and not the thieving dealership!

[@zane_lax1210]

How much play should there be in my clutch fork leaver I have a 2006 engine with 2003 trans

[@katadogba7398]

Great video. Gives great insight. Thanks.

[@thomashemmings6998]

My 2004 Mini Cooper, stopping driving once I stopped at a STOP sign, went into neutral to go into first, and won't go anywhere, with car running, shifter shifts into all positions without pressing clutch pedal in, and won't go into gear? Any help very much appreciated

[@thomashemmings6998]

Stopped driving

[@ModMINI]

Sounds like blown clutch.

[@hunke327]

Awesome video! It is really helpful. My issue is that after replacing the slave the piston/rod seems to warp or bend. Gone through two now. It will drive/shift great for about 15! Minutes then back to not shifting after removing the slave cylinder for inspection the rod/piston is bent. Happened twice. Not sure what to do about this. Any idea?

[@ModMINI]

Josh Hunke must be damage inside the bell housing.

[@hunke327]

Turns out it was bad parts. I used Duralast parts from AutoZone and they kept bending. Got an OEM slave from Mini and it works like a champ! thanks again!

[@Christopher-kj9us]

Hi bro my mini is not going to any gear wht do u think maybe be thanks for the video

[@103click]

Hi i have 2002 mini cooper i have a big problem When I press the clutch and start the engine, the gear stick does not move and does not return to neutral, and when I slowly release the clutch, the engine is about to turn off. so i checked shift but its fine. do you know what is problem?

[@ModMINI]

Broken shift cable?

[@ramontinoco3411]

Mod mini I havent herd from you for a while? So I had bought a 2006 automatic mini cooper R50 and the first week that I bought the car it wont shift into gear now can you help me out? Thanks

[@mrmojoridin]

I have a 2005 Cooper S and I just got done following your EXCELLENT video and successfully replaced my clutch. When I went to install my new slave cylinder- I inserted the line from master cylinder into slave cylinder and I’m getting fluid shooting out of connection point. You mentioned an o ring being down in the hole on slave cylinder but all I have on mine is the cone shaped black plastic piece that is on the end of the line that inserts into slave cylinder. When I attempted to install I did not have slave cylinder compressed - is that my problem?

[@am0454]

This is great but do you have a video on the clutch master as well? I understand that it is best to replace master and slave at the same time

[@ModMINI]

It's under the dash attached to the clutch pedal. I wouldn't bother replacing unless it's also failed.

[@am0454]

Mod MINI great, thanks for the reply!

[@ingeniousmechanic]

Thanks for doing these videos. Is the slave cylinder procedure any different for a non-S?

[@ModMINI]

Location is different for some variants.

[@Alex_704]

you make great videos!!! keep up the good work!!!

[@LuisTorres-zn6ok]

Sorry to come back here many many years later but I’m having trouble bleeding the car tried power bleeder and other methods but hasn’t worked wondering if the car has to be leveled because we only have the front jacked up would it make such a different we get close enough to feel pressure in the clutch but still get slop on the top and doesn’t want to go in gears would you think that’s why it’s not fully wanted to get all the air out of the system ? If anyone still here 2021 I would appreciate the help

[@ModMINI]

it is harder with front jacked up as it will draw in air more easily that way.

[@reneescobar4868]

hello. Im looking at a mini. But the clutch pedal engages all the way at the end. shift fine. but the pedal is soft and catches at the wall. the seller says it just needs to be bled cause its a high performance clutch. your opion. thank you again.

[@ModMINI]

I don't know how high performance clutch means it just needs to be bled. That is possible but it could also be a larger issue. I'd tell the seller to fix it and then you'll buy the car, even if it means agreeing to pay some or all of the cost to bleed (via discount off the purchase cost) I'm generally wary of people selling cars with supposedly minor issues. If they are so minor, why not fix before selling? It could be nothing but you also could have a large clutch job to deal with. If someone doesn't have enough free cash to do so, it could mean that other repairs or maintenance were deferred for financial reasons.

[@Supraman007]

what am i doing wrong with the power bleeder, i bought the same one you are using and it won't stop leaking at the stupid cap

[@kerrigansteger2527]

Can you do a video on installing new spark plugs?

[@BagelSchlagel]

I have yet to see a video or thread but this looks like the same one that is INSIDE my R53 under the clutch pedal and it is leaking and wet any suggestions or info on this.

[@ModMINI]

There is a metal clip connecting to the clutch pedal, and a fluid supply/ fluid pressure line. There is also a clutch engagement switch. Remove all those and replace part. It shouldn't require bleeding, I think. Pump a few times and air bubbles will work out.