Mazda 6 and Ford Fusion Front Control Arm Replacement How To - First Generation

[@DanVaughn11]

Thanks for making and posting! It took me 8 hours to complete, but I followed all your instructions and saved ~$900! No more creaking noise while driving!

[@boblashendock8687]

Just wanted to say thanks for taking the time to produce this video. Just finished replacing all 4 lower ball joints on my '06 Fusion. Had I not watched your video I would have been very stuck trying to figure out how to get the bolts out of the rear lower arms. You saved me hours and a lot of frustration. Thank you!

[@jerreplace6850]

Very well done video! Worked flawlessly on a 2010 Fusion as well. No BS stories just straight to the point. I realize this video is 7 years old but since it was so well done I thought I'd throw a comment out there.

[@wkbarr]

Very helpful and very clear video. One of the best automotive videos I've seen anywhere! Keep up the good work!

[@ScubaStevo]

This was the most helpful video I've watched for my Mazda 6. Everything was explained thoroughly and gave me the confidence to take on this job. It saved me hundreds of dollars. I bought all 6 control arms and only spent $260 total. One thing I'll suggest is getting a good set of pickle forks that have sufficient thickness to them. I rented a pickle fork from O'Reilly Auto Parts and beat the heck out of the two lower ball joints. One separated after a while and the other ended up coming out with the metal sleeve. For the next two lower ball joints on the other side of the car, I went and rented a better set of pickle forks from Advance Auto Parts. These were thicker than my previous one and worked SO much better. I hit the pickle fork maybe 5 times on each ball joint and they were separated. Wish I would've gotten that set for the first two!

[@ManuelGonzalez-mm1xm]

Unfortunately i had the same problem needless to say im irritated i didn't tbink to realize that the thickness mattered

[@SDLAX46]

Great video, thank you for including torque specs! Its guys like you that make KZbin a great resource for DIYers

[@summerrosealexis6560]

Awesome video! Straight to the point and very clear with directions. Its nice to have good visuals and verbal directions without all the random side conversations most videos have.

[@cameroncupp639]

Thanks for this video! Saved me around $350 from a shop doing both upper control arms (parts + labor). Watched this video and it gave me the confidence to do it myself. Not a bad job at all. Well worth the satisfaction of DIY! Using a couple a 2x4s, I was able to compress the steering knuckle (suspension) to get the hub center roughly 16.5-17 in from the top of the wheel well. I couldn't get to the 15.83 inches. I was using an AC Delco 2-ton aluminum jack. I did notice that before the jack reached maximum height that the car itself was lifting instead of the suspension continuing to compress. 2007 Ford Fusion SE 2.3L I4 with 110250 miles.

[@CoastStarlight]

This is EXACTLY what I needed to know/watch, currently doing this same install and also broke a gear puller myself, Thanx for posting this!

[@Floridaboisosa]

I couldn't find one good Mazda video showcasing how to take off the ball joint until yours.Thank you for showing me the way. Hopefully now I'll have better success at my cv axle replacement... Happy wrenching ! Keep the videos coming...

[@Nozerone]

I'm about to have to do a lot of work to my 07 mazda 6, and I think with this 1 video, you have become one of my favorite people!

[@b_gumm]

Hey man how did the work go? I have the same car. Im about to replace my entire suspension. I am worried about having issues with the bolts. Hope you get this message. #MazdaGang

[@Nozerone]

It went pretty smoothly honestly. If it hadn't have been for this video, I would have been confused as hell when I got to the lower rearward control arm. I did need a bit of help in pulling the the sub frame down a little bit to get that bolt out. When he was using the pickle fork, he was able to keep the metal boot in. I was not able to do it, and the boot came out with the control arm. Getting the bolt off the old control arms is easily the hardest part of the job. Thankfully the boots are metal, and can slip back in. The only issue I had other than those boots, was I ordered the wrong part. I ordered a front lower-rearward driver side control arm, when I needed one for the passenger. It's fine though, cause eventually the driver side one will be going into the car when I replace the rest of the suspension. Just follow the instructions in this video, and you'll do just fine.

[@b_gumm]

+Draggon Reaper thank you, I appreciate the feed back

[@b_gumm]

Draggon Reaper Where did you put the jack stands for this? On the pinch welds or the frame rail?

[@Nozerone]

There is a DIY shop in my city, and I went over there and used their lift. I'd probably set the jack stands under the frame instead of the pinch welds. If you can, have the jack stands right behind the front suspension to reduce the overhanging weight that's been lifted. Just be sure the position is stable, and won't move.

[@andrewdobin]

Amazing job. This was so much better than others with covering the preloading and what to remove before pulling the arms and frame. Thank you!

[@cyrilasfrenchyaz]

Ok I'm done with the job and in between I bought a genuine Mazda ball joint separator. It is beefier than the one at HF and it poped the ball joints with little to no efforts. Also the sleeved stayed inside the knuckle, yeah!. Lowering the sub-frame was fine but the space to remove the bolt was tight as the frame didn't go down very much and I had to pry it down a bit. Be very careful with the steering column, it makes it easy to turn without noticing. Keep an eye on it!

[@nickp5356]

Probably the most informative video I've seen on this, gives me much more confidence doing this project in the next few weeks.. props to you my man. And includes torque specs..ty!!

[@happywrenching]

So 8 years later I had to do this job again on this car. The car now has 225,000 miles on it and the replacement control arms finally gave out. I'm happy that they lasted this long. I wanted to pass on a tip that will make this job go a lot quicker. Particularly when trying to remove the ball joints from the knuckle. Instead of using separators I used my Bernzomatic TS8000KC torch to heat the joints. Don't use the blue propane torches. Use the yellow cylinders that have the MAPP gas and burn hotter. There is a rubber CV joint above the ball joints so you'll need to protect it from the flame with some kind of shield when you do this - I used a soldering heat shield that I got from Home Depot . All it took was a few minutes of heating up the joints and the knuckle from multiple angles and then a couple of blows with a 4lb hammer. The joints popped out with ease.

[@elrami4159]

Great video mate even after 8 years ... Does the 2011 mazda 6 also share the same parts with the 2nd gen fusion?

[@happywrenching]

@@elrami4159 Yes but mostly when it comes to the engines and their related parts. Fusion uses the 2.5 developed by Mazda and Mazda uses the 3.7 developed by Ford.

[@Chris_Paul1]

The ball joints weren’t really an issue for me, just used a pickle fork and same size hammer u have. About 10 good hits and it pops out. I had more issues with the top control arm getting the bolts out past the shock. When u compress the spring up the bolt head was too big to fit in between the coils, I ended up taking the top bolts of the shock off and u can push the shock left or right to make clearance to pull the bolts out. Also my steering is heavier now, maybe I over tightened the bolts on all control arms. But thanks for the great tutorial.

[@gratefulaya192]

thank you so much for this well made video. so far this is the best video I have seen, also the best instructions I have came across. I have the stupid Workshop Manual, the training manual, Chilton repair manual and also the haynes repair manual, which none of them are worth a penny for this job

[@jbroome2336]

Great video, I have this job ahead of me and this is a very good demonstration of how to do it without costly specialty tools. Just what I needed, thanks!

[@paulinoplayarts9633]

this was the most helpfull video i had ever seen about the mazda 6

[@OrlandoCampbell]

Going to try this at home very soon... Don't have ALL the tools but so far I can improvise for what I'm seeing. This is a good video. Thanks for sharing

[@happywrenching]

You're welcome. Hope the job goes well for you.

[@tbone2859]

Excellent video! Nice to see a vid without a lift. Going to replace the four lower control arms and was concerned about just having jackstands with needing to lower that subframe. Thank you sir!

[@nomadland99]

Nice camera work and demonstration... gives me a much better picture of the time needed to do this. Thank you.

[@jettison_m]

Great video. Love the "what not to do section" at 4:00. I'll be taking this job to the mechanic. At least I can appreciate all the labor that will be going into this job when I hand over the credit card :-(

[@josephzink2988]

It's a piece of cake. I live in nashville n and can do it for you for a lot less tan the dealer quoted me. $5000

[@mhill94]

Such a straight to the point video, great job! You made it look so simple too! All ya gotta do is have patience and follow directions.

[@clydemcm]

The video is good. DO use jackstand a 23mm socket is standard in lots of socket sets. Make sure you have one first. A box/open end combo from sears will work. Don't use a pickle fork. Buy the $30 OTC ball joint lever. Even with, watch the pop from the pressure release. if the engine doesn't drop enough, encourage it carefully with a prybar. It doesn't take much to get it down another 1" careful! loaded the suspension 15.8" isn't easy. careful as you'll probably lift the car off the jack stands.

[@brockbaker3able]

thank you for this great video. such a common problem in these mazdas,and the shops want a boatload to do the work. much appreciated

[@happywrenching]

Seigi and Norman, appreciate the feedback. I'm glad you found the video helpful :)

[@happywrenching]

+‫الرجل الشرير‬‎ 2009 and up is different. The two lower control arms are replaced with a single piece.

[@Noah-mn2gc]

My subframe wont lower I did everything you said one of the ball joints won't break loose please help 2007 mazda 6

[@boostedwolfie]

Robert S noisy as in squeaks?

[@boostedwolfie]

Robert S does it stop under braking?

[@boostedwolfie]

Robert S the squeaking i mean, hopefully the car stops when you brake haha.

[@KingHVLP1234]

I found this video to late and did it without it🙁 wish I would have seen it, but thankfully I got it done and can enjoy watching knowing I don't have to do it again! Great video

[@renegade1520]

Really good instructional video. Working on my fusion currently and this is the best video I’ve found. Good lighting and editing too. Thanks!

[@richbarbee3003]

Great video. I just completed this today. Thank you for being so thorough. I was having suspension noise due to a faulty bushing in the forward lower control arm. Completed this along with new struts on my 2003 Mazda 6.

[@happywrenching]

No problem, glad the video helped.

[@alanhowarth2801]

Thanks. Truly excellent video. And big thanks for including the torque settings and the preload measurement. Easy job and confidence building. Cheers from Brisbane, Australia.

[@mikefettig3045]

Saw this excellent video and convinced me to attempt the repair. Bought a full replacement kit for upper and lower ball joints, the Lisle pickle fork kit plus pre-loaded struts. Going for it in on a 2004 Mazda 6i with 88,000 miles. Noticed my front lower control arm bushings were gone after some creaking after going over bumps.

[@mikefettig3045]

Did the repair. I used the non-flare nuts that came with the new ball joints and that was a mistake. The nut on the driver rear control arm disintegrated and the control arm popped off the spindle and control arm was dangling in my rim. Towed my six back home and put the original ball joint nuts back on.

[@dantonjorge1010]

As a Brazilian, thank you for your video, saved me a lot of trouble and money lol

[@craigbeckerkorb6536]

This is one of the best how to videos I've ever seen! Keep it up... Maybe a couple 95 f150 videos could be in order...

[@cnjlakes]

This is such a great video! Excellent job explaining why you are performing each step as well as pointing out what you don't want to do. The boots on my front lower control arms are torn and the ball joint is beginning to make noise, but the boots over the front lower rear appear to be in good shape. I'm tempted to only replace the front control arms hoping I get another year out of the front lower rear before I have to mess with dropping the subframe. Thanks again!

[@happywrenching]

I would just replace the front one. But be careful, depending on how you take out the control arm there is a good chance of ripping the boot on the other control arm. Good luck!

[@cnjlakes]

+happywrenching I'm going to use a ball joint separator from Harbor Freight. Seems like a lot of folk have had good results with it. Thanks!

[@user-ny1tg5ng4z]

I just wanted to thank you for making this video.I was very informative, and helped me make the repairs myself ! You Rock !!

[@gustavoestevam5263]

Great great great guide! Cannot put into words how useful it was. Thank you

[@wulfman15]

Holy crap... The bolts on the knuckle are NO JOKE. I resorted to beating the pickle forks with a full size sledge. Oh, and a note for people with the V6, the subframe does NOT drop nearly that easy xD The exhaust is in the way and you have to loosen up a few other bolts. Still saved $800. Was worth the pain and suffering!

[@Fedfire37]

My rear lower control arm had to be pulled out with the whole knuckle because the ball joint taper would not come out. I broke an aluminum pickle fork and a ball joint seperator tool in half in the process. I beat the piss out of it in my vise and it came out with the bushing which is part of the knuckle. I had to have a friend heat it up with torches to separate the bushing from the ball joint taper.

[@chickenfishhybrid44]

+Chris Groff What other bolts need to be removed to get the subframe down? Just more of the subframe bolts?

[@hahaayoungin]

Chris Groff I

[@folabiolat9744]

Thanks for posting this video. I followed your instructions and was able to change all the control arms. Very helpful.

[@PatrickvanEwijk]

thanks for taking the time to make this great instruction video.

[@radkacz83]

Good job! Thanks for great video for mazda 6 users. Good luck:)

[@RyanBautista]

Thanks for sharing this video. It helps a lot to identify my mazda 6 2003 problem

[@BaveMage]

I really have no freaking idea how you had success with the pickle fork technique! The steel bushing between the ball joint and the hub make it almost impossible to remove the way you did it! Hammering upwards directly on the control arms (even with limited space and a 3 lb sledge) was Sooo much more effective than any other way I've tried! Two HF balljoint tools broken and failure. Mine is a 2007 Mazda 6, look for my previous comment and you may save yourself some grief. I hope you'll consider my technique and do an update on this video!

[@cag9228]

worked like a champ for me on my 2004 Mazda 6s. The key was leaving the nuts on the balls and not letting them pop out completely. It only took 20 or so wacks with a 5lb hammer. I used the exact same pickle fork set he used. The Lisle 41500.

[@happywrenching]

Excellent. Not sure why people are having problems with the pickle forks. Its effective. Hammering upwards runs the risk of the sleeves popping out of the knuckle along with the control arm.

[@cyrilasfrenchyaz]

Somehow I had to redo the job as I needed to change my CV axle and I ended up bulging the ball joint stud... Note to self: use the nut on the BJ to press it up with the MAzda BJ separator.... anyway, this time I thought it was useful to 1) lock the steering wheel after you remove the bolt of the steering column 2) disconnect the tie rod to give more slack to turn the knuckle while the steering wheel is in a lock position. Great reference video!

[@SR-pb6kq]

excellent video. Thank you. Yeah, its impossible to remove lower arm bolt without lowering sub frame since the bolt is too long

[@jimkramer]

Very well done! Thanks for posting. I will be tackling this over the weekend!

[@NAPeterson]

Bravo. Excellent video. I did this job while following along with your vid. Thank you so much!

[@b_gumm]

Would you recommend buying new bolts from the dealer before beginning the work? I am about to replace my entire suspension. I am worried I will run into a issue with a bolt. Further more did you replace the stabilizer bar when doing this ?

[@jimmski9908]

very good video, you certainly have skills. others have tried simply loosening the sub-frame and did not mess with the steering column. The thought of removing the steering is pretty daunting.

[@EnshroudedBijou]

What happens if we don't remove the steering column? It does seem daunting.

[@44Celt]

I managed to change the lower arm without dropping the sub frame. Get someone with a heavy pry bar to lever the chassis while you pull the bolt out. Its pretty close fit tho'. great vid

[@Riveram421]

thank you for this video my son and I are going to try and do this for his car we just bought all the parts. AGAIN THANK U

[@gabrielreyes3726]

Excellent video! You should have more subscribers, I'm sure telling my buddies about you. Thank you guys!

[@NemanjaGuitar]

Thank you so much! The video is very detailed and insightful in every way. Wish me luck.

[@fishermenmike47]

Thanks buddy good video,I have an 07 milan v6,and it squeaks after driven for an hour,It has the mazda suspension jus like that car your workin on

[@johndoh4064]

Clear and straight to the point. Thanks for the vid

[@carlosjavierPR]

The second controll arm its easy for a 4 cylinder but for a v6 the exhaust system is in the way ..

[@carlosa4285]

Very good video. On my 2007 Milan with tighter suspension, you actually have to drop the strut to remove the bolts for the upper control arm.

[@luissuazols]

Very good video and very helpful. Thank you, you just saved me about $700 bucks

[@mrau92me]

I'm about to replace my 6's front rearward CAs. I'm going to remove the steering input shaft's pinch bolt and mark it, but I'm not going to pull the u-joint apart or the large round grommet. I figure when I pry the subframe down the steering gear shaft should be free to slide in and out of the u-joint and grommet. This will save some steps. What do you think?

[@bradtitt7572]

Excellent idea! And you probably don't need to remove the subframe brackets just need to haveve it loose enough to drop it down a little

[@christopherbarnes9209]

this video gave me lots of great reference materials for what I need to do with my control arm to get the blasted CV axle out. the lower control arms were stuck and I guess I was being too gentle and I look forward to beat the ever live crap out of the pickle fork and that ball joint :)

[@dellikose]

Great video, thank you. What are all the socket sizes that are needed to do this job?

[@happywrenching]

23mm for the large control arm ball joint nuts. 21mm & 15mm for the subframe brackets. Most of everything else will be either 12mm, 13mm, 15mm, or 17mm.

[@dellikose]

Thanks! A couple things... I had to pry between the subframe and the body to get the rear control arm bolt to clear the body, the subframe did not drop with the jack like in the video. I'm guessing it was sticking because of some rust. Also, I had to jack up the transaxle a little to get the driver side front control arm bolt out and back in. Mazda didn't do us any favors with room to work, that's for sure. Overall it's time consuming, but not too bad of a job.

[@user-nk6sg8li9x]

What is the need to remove the rubber seal on the steering shaft? Trying this repair at home on a V6 Fusion and others are saying to flex the sub frame, but your way seems less likely to mess something up.

[@johndoh4064]

Just did this job on my MKZ today by GENTLY flexing the edge of the subframe. It doesn't take quite as much pressure and it doesn't need as much flex to pull/replace the bolt as it looks

[@chrislacoste1178]

Most imformitive vidio I saw yet . Thank you buddy !

[@travishauch8132]

Do you adjust the alignment with the control arms? I need to replace mine and trying to figure out if I need to get a front wheel alignment after.

[@super30jay]

Thanks for putting this together this really helped me alot !!!

[@onlycodered]

I just want to reach through this video and hand you my cordless impact. LOL

[@dbastyr]

The lack of rust is so depressing... Minnesotan here. I've never, ever worked on a car that corrosion free. Don't take it for granted. ;-)

[@matthewmcreynolds7428]

I didn't have to use a pickle fork or ball joint remover. I just used a 4 pound sledge hammer and hit up on the control arm a few times and it popped all of the control arm ball joints out. Nor did I have to disconnect the steering shaft. After removing the plates that hold up the sub frame, it dropped enough to where I could get to the rear bolts of the rear lower control arms. Also if you have a 3.0 V-6, you will have to disassemble the passenger side pre-catalytic converter to be able to get a socket and extension in there to remove the rear bolt holding the lower front control arm on the passenger side.

[@happywrenching]

FYI - as many people have already reported, you run the risk of removing the steering knuckle sleeve along with the ball joint if you use a sledge to hit the control arm. Then you have to mess with trying to remove the sleeve from the ball join. Not fun. Using the pickle fork ensures that the sleeve stays in the knuckle. All other points are valid.

[@themainmason]

Great video. I've been struggling with my lower control arms on the knuckle side. Been using a ball joint decompression tool and not the pickle fork. Looks like a trip to harbor freight is in order.

[@BaveMage]

+themainmason I've found that hammering upwards on the control arm near the hub to be the easiest way to remove either control arm. Since you'll be replacing them anyways, no harm done! I broke two HF ball joint tools on my 2007 Mazda 6 before Hammer Time success! The bushing will likely be stuck to the bolt, cut through the ball joint bolt stud on the joint side then find a big socket, place the bushing on the socket threaded side up and hammer out the remaining stud. If you've gotten this far it should be apparent what to do. Have fun!

[@trevorpitre3242]

Hey man your video is going to be very helpful!! Although I have a few questions...are all the ball joints in the control arms and are there 3 on each side and are they not replaceable without changing the whole arm?

[@happywrenching]

There are three control arms per side - one on the top and two on the bottom. All three have ball joints. While you CAN replace the balljoint on the upper control arm, you cannot replace them on the bottom arms and must replace the whole arm. Don't forget that there is also a balljoint on the tierod so technically there are four ball joints per side.

[@trevorpitre3242]

Yup...sounds great!! Thx a lot!

[@drewgregg4952]

I have a 2006 Mazda six automatic three. Oh, and I can’t find the sub frame for it anywhere it’s completely rotted out gone the control arms cracked right off of it and I can’t find the park anywhere cause Mazda discontinued the subframes. Are there any Ford fusions that will fit my vehicle anyone please help me

[@Mecal00]

Really appreciate the video, it definitely helped!However, I did wince when you put the pipe over the ratchet.

[@mistermister2085]

These things are a pita. Its 2 parts of fun. 1st getting the control arm out of the knuckle---torch/hit side of knuckle lots with sledge and then hit from below (the nut). Even then i probably worked on it for 2+ hours before it came. Then the real fun is if you can get the sleeve out--i resorted to using my 20 ton press which even that thing took some real force to crack it free. If/when i do the driver side i'm just getting the sleeve and using a new one (madza part on ebay). Mine was creaking bad and now it appears the creaking is gone (plus the old ball joint sleeve was torn). 2012 ford fusion.

[@S3Imports1]

Awesome video! I feel much better about attempting these repairs. Thank you.

[@A10ZA]

Hi, is it possible to replace only the front lower control arms without losening the rear lower control arms? My 2 front ball joints has cracked rubber boots and i suspect that its making the squeaking noise when i pushed down the front corner of the car hood and driving slowly on bumpy roads. Thanks for a very detailed video bro!

[@happywrenching]

Yes, each control arm can be individually taken out. Another source of squeaking are sway bar bushings so you may want to check them out and add silicone grease to them.

[@yichuanniu1851]

Fantastic video. I really enjoy watching it. Thank you!

[@mjparts0384]

Thanks for the vid. Certainly helped me to change mine out today.

[@craigzilla100]

I have a speed6, but this looks just about identical. Any differences that I should know about? Is it much cheaper to replace just the ball joints or do you have to go ahead and replace the entire control arms? I have a lot of cracking and knocking noise coming from both wheels, but I can't visibly tell which ball joint it is that's causing the issue.. awesome video by the way!!

[@nikolaygeorgiev1507]

Thank you for the efforts and sharing this video with us!

[@andrewbabich5138]

Great video. Why do you need to disconnect the steering shaft ? Also do you need to disconnect the shaft if only doing the passenger side? Are those mevotech parts and are you happy with whatever you used for control arms? How many miles do you have on the new parts

[@tonycervantes4816]

Nice vídeo sir. . I have a question and doubt why you removed the steering shaft. Inside the car? And you only have to remove one bracket ?

[@happywrenching]

It was for liability reasons - don't want people dropping the subframe too low and ripping out the steering shaft. You don't need to mess with the steering shaft.

[@strategy6975]

Great video. I need to replace my front lower rear control arm and was wondering what size pickle fork you used to separate the ball joint on the video.

[@happywrenching]

Sorry, don't know what size it was - nothing was labeled. Used one of the forks from the Lisle 41500 kit.

[@chickenfishhybrid44]

Is it absolutely necessary to remove the steering shaft to lower the subframe or were you just being safe? Also, is there a master spline on the steering rack to help with aligning the steering shaft? Thanks, good video

[@happywrenching]

+shawnmeyer44 Necessary? Probably not. However, since it's in the service manual I did it just to be safe. Besides, it takes less then 5 minutes to undo the steering. There is no master spline so you may want to mark the shaft. Not a big deal again because if you are off by one spline then you will clearly see that the steering wheel is not centered.

[@chickenfishhybrid44]

+happywrenching Thanks for the fast reply. That sucks theres no master spline i hate that. I will likely have an alignment done anyway so yeah not that big of a deal

[@robertholly9379]

happywrenching

[@10ring]

Great video, I'll be using it in the near future. I have some bumps and clunks that are obviously suspension related, but can't seem to figure out which joint it is. Any tips for testing each joint so I can pinpoint which is loose/making noise? I jacked it up and tried wiggling the wheels in all directions, but nothing was loose enough to notice.

[@happywrenching]

Have you tried using a crowbar? It will allow you to apply more force to the joints and you will be able to see if there is any play.

[@10ring]

happywrenching So any movement in the joint with a pry bar, even when the wheel is off the ground with no load, means the joint needs to be replaced?

[@happywrenching]

10ring Not necessarily. A joint is designed for movement. What you are looking for specifically, is slack. You do not want any play in the joint - the movement should be smooth and controlled. Inspect the swaybar end links and bushings. Also look at the control arm ball joints and bushings. Check the tie rods. Finally, worn out struts and strut mounts will also make clunking sounds when going over bumps so you may have to replace them.

[@jedaigill432]

I’ve seen a lot of guys not loosening the steering column. What are some issues you’d run into if you don’t do that?

[@jayyoutube8790]

I did a Mazda CX-7 today, but I need to do the other side.. Surfing YouTub for ideas... Good job

[@lukethompson8917]

Do you have the torque specs for the front upper control arm bolts and for the upper ball joint on that control arm? I did the job a couple days ago and just want to make sure everything is right. The lower ball joints were a pain in the ass. I had to have someone sit in the car and hold the steering wheel either hard left or hard right while I beat the piss out of the pickle fork. The pickle fork that you showed was the only one that worked for me along with an 8lb sledge hammer. Thank you for the video. Excellent work. Could you tell me the name of the repair manual that you are using?

[@cyrilasfrenchyaz]

Front upper control arm bolt is 56 foot/lbs, ball joint 39 foot/lbs. Middle lower control arm, fork is 93 foot/lbs, frame is 93 and ball joint is 147.5 foot/lbs. Rear lower control arm is 93 foot/lbs for the bolt and 147.5 for the ball joint bolt.

[@junoquat582]

Awesome video with good info but i hit a snag. I ordered the full suspension package from Ebay and started install this afternoon. Everything went as shown until removing the front lower control arm where I separated it from frame using the Pickle Fork. The metal sleeve remained attached to the arm just above the threads. I am soaking them in Liquid Wrench tonight but wanted to see if you have any ideas about how to get it off easily. Thanks

[@happywrenching]

If you used the pickle fork correctly then I don't see how its possible for the sleeve to stay attached to the control arm. The pickle fork goes between the top of the sleeve and the ball-joint. When you hit the pickle fork, it forces those two apart, so again, I don't see how the sleeve remained attached. One way to remove it would be to use a gear puller (I do this in the website article). Otherwise, just reinstall the control arm and use the pickle fork to separate the two.

[@cameltoast]

happywrenching this happened to me, my ball joints were practically welded into the sleeves. Sleeves came out but stayed stuck on the ball joint.

[@shandusama]

thanks for this video it really helped me with my project on my 6

[@martinpoole3414]

I have exactly the same problem, thanks for the heads up!

[@matrixmare]

Great video. Very informative and well done.

[@kenbarickman5930]

I have a 2006 Mazda 5, manufactured in Nov. 2015. I have a one piece front lower control arm. On the right hand side, the air conditioner compressor restricts travel of the forward bolt attachment. Any suggestions on how to get enough clearance?

[@Mike-we3rb]

Steering column removal was not necessary. Great video tho

[@johnbrookes6776]

I'm from the UK, are the "new" nuts(the two on the underside of the steering knuckle) the same size as the originals? I found my arm came with a standard 16mm nut not the large flanged one, this(new one) is the same size as the collar that sits in the knuckle so the whole thing can work its way out on the road, I only ask as the new ones in the video seem too small? The video is a great help now I can tackle the bent arms with more ease, of course our cars are covered in rust!

[@w8t2009]

Hi!! Great video! I have a question, when I turn the steering wheel to the left it goes normal and smooth. But to the right, it's a bit harder. Not too hard but it's noticable. Could it be anything other than the steering rack itself?

[@happywrenching]

Could be strut mounts, any of the ball joints in the front and that includes tie rods and control arms. Could be in the steering rack itself though less likely.

[@DriveFixDrive]

You made the lower control arms pop out so easily with the pickle fork. I had to heat it up and beat the crap out of it.

[@gustavoestevam5263]

The very best tutorial Thank you so much!

[@69ssrszl1]

Are these two models the same as a 2008 Lincoln MKZ? All the parts look the same. How about the coil springs? Will a complete strut assembly fit? All strut makers have no complete or quick assembly for a MKZ

[@th0mm90]

I've found that some shops are offering 12mm and 14mm ID versions of the straight lower control arm. Do you know which one is correct for a 2002 GG Atenza/6?

[@bkcamaro]

Head up the ball joint goes into a bushing that’s pressed into the hub and on the one I was working no pickle fork was getting it out. The bushing came out with the ball joint and you need a pitman are pulling to take it off

[@rickandrade2186]

Gear wrenches my friend, they make things a lot easier than the regular ones.

[@celiadominguez8209]

hello i have to change both sides back and forth for my 2007 fusion ford! the question is Lateral Link Control Arm is the same, thank you