How To Replace Mercedes Benz Lower Ball Joint - Made EASY - S Class S500 W220 - 2000 - 2006

#mercedesbenzsuspension #balljoint #MercedesbenzSclass
In this video I'll show you how to replace your Mercedes Benz lower ball joint, lower control arm, and thrust arm (radius rod) for your S Class S500 W220. If you've ever heard a squeaking or clanking sound coming from the front end of your Mercedes-benz then chances are it's probably your lower ball joint. It's an easy fix and you'll be back on the road in no time at all. There is an option to purchase a heavy duty ball joint, but I chose to go with the standard ball joint which is still built really well. The most important tool for this job is the ball joint press tool which allows you to remove the lower ball joint. It's definitely worth its weight in gold.
One huge benefit to replacing your lower ball joint is being able to get a proper alignment. Sometimes with a bad lower ball joint it can throw off a perfectly good alignment. So, before getting a wheel alignment, be sure to replace any bad ball joints on your suspension.
Also if you need to replace your lower control arm and thrust arm (radius rod), this video will show you how to do that as well.
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[@totallybonkers]

This is one of the best auto repair videos I've seen. Very detailed, descriptive, easy to see. Step by step.

[@user-bg7vn4de5u]

Thank you for your tutorial, it’s near enough the job I need to do. Watching this and listening to you, makes me feel very confident to tackle the job ahead.

[@michaelbarton5273]

Excellent! Great advice and clear step by step tutorial .. Thank you

[@GarageDynamics]

Thank you for the kind words Michael Barton! :)

[@waynehsmithi4792]

Flawless, with clarity of exceptional class. Thank you!

[@RandJ1996]

Just wanted to thank you for this video. About to take care of this on my w220. Your video is exellent! One of the best/detailed videos I've seen (I've seen many over the decades). PS. Your voice is great!

[@dgonzz90]

Awesome video! Will be doing this to my w210 soon!

[@GarageDynamics]

Thank you Daniel Gonzalez!! That's awesome to hear! Happy wrenching!!

[@kdao1007]

Perfect Step by Step! This is an awesome video. Wish you made when we were working this project in 2020. I Subscribe and LIKE. Thanks for doing this great video tutorial. It is excellent reference. You need to have this in the Mercedes forum and link them to this video on YT.

[@750coda]

Great video..Thank you 🤟

[@mousaabdulateef9205]

❤nice work

[@dylanhein8370]

It's much easier to find 12mm hex sockets than it is to find a 12mm key locally, as most key sets only go to 10mm. If you're in this predicament, pound the bit out of a 12mm hex socket. It's the perfect length. Thanks for the video!

[@GarageDynamics]

Haha very true Dylan Hein. I think I purchased the 12mm key at Sears when they were still around. I like your idea though :)

[@v12cat]

To replace the lower ball joint with that tool you actually only have to remove the top ball joint and the brake caliper (the flexible pipe restricts movement if you don't). If you then tilt the hub assembly rearwards it leaves enough room to get the tool on the lower ball and remove it. This saves a considerable amount of disassembly and potential damage to other ball joints.

[@GarageDynamics]

Actually I removed everything so that if someone wanted to know how to remove their lower control arm or thrust arm, they could learn all in the same video. I should probably change the title haha.

[@kdao1007]

@@GarageDynamics this is an awesome video. Wish you made when we were working this project in 2020. I Subscribe and LIKE. Thanks for doing this great video tutorial. It is excellent reference. You need to have this in the Mercedes forum and link them to this video on YT.

[@GarageDynamics]

@@kdao1007 Thank you for the kind words. I really appreciate it. :) I wanted to get on this video sooner, but I'm glad it found you. Thank for you very much for liking and subscribing!!! Your support means a lot to me. You're welcome K Dao! I have a few of my videos on mbworld.org but I will take your advice and branch out to other forums. Thanks again brother!

[@LynxStarAuto]

None of us that work on these cars for a living would be dumb enough to only sell you the ball joint. Less you want the customer back next week for another noise. We sell it as a combo with the lower strut rod, and the sway bar end links, as well as the lower control arm with integrated ball joint. After that, an alignment is required. This is the proper way to service the front lower suspension (which is the common culprit for wear) on these cars which are in some cases are approaching 20 years of age.

[@GarageDynamics]

@@LynxStarAuto You are correct and I couldn't agree with you more! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us brother!

[@curlymyhero]

What a great video! Very concise! Just subscribed. I have a squeak squeak over every bump! So lower ball joint bushing eh?

[@dimosbeta]

12:52 no need to cut an allen key, I've used a hex bit and a combination spanner, it worked superbly ;)

[@crestamotors5250]

I’m amazed that ball joint came out so easily As I’ve done loads of them and I end up putting heat and a hammer to budge the ball joint?

[@rubbermallet3873]

well done - i did basically the same on a 13 c250 and after replacing the whole suspension and aligning it the noise still there 😁

[@GarageDynamics]

Thank you rubber MALLET! I'm glad to hear you got the job done!! If you still hear a noise, then it might be one of the ball joints on your lower control arm. One trick is to spray a small amount of lubricant inside of the rubber that covers the ball joint and if it stops squeaking then you know which joint is going bad. Hope this helps. Cheers!

[@hjuninhoh]

I got a squeaky noise on my C250 (w205) Also, was thinking of trying the lubricant thing but... which kind of lubricant should I use?

[@Studyingwithlofimusic]

Assume 😊 Thanks!

[@herbertbutler6911]

Great video! I would like to get the information on the ball joint removal tool you used. I ordered one from Amazon, I had to send it back.

[@HM-ke1qm]

Do you have a video on mecedes brakes and rotors replacement?

[@amzmanku]

Great video. I wish you had made this video last month.haha, I did all mine . But not as good as you.

[@GarageDynamics]

Thank you amar manku! I know, me too! I got really busy with this exhaust that I'm making for this car (you can see it on my instagram @ Garage Dynamics) and was tied up with too many things. I'm glad to hear you got the job done. Congratulations!!!

[@nath1774]

Can anyone comment on how much crossover there is to a W221 w/ ABC suspension? Pretty similar, or should I not use this as a guide? I've not tried this before, but am thinking due to a steering wheel shake at 60+mph, and ruling out other causes, that I have a suspension issue.

[@Benz242]

Another good point is when you lowered the car and tighten everything. Up. Street level. 😎. 🆒😎🆒. Cool.....

[@ryannguyen8001]

I agree. I watched other videos, and none mentioned about lowing the car at street level.

[@douglasweaver4194]

I need that socket for the end of the C clamp

[@GarageDynamics]

Hello Douglas Weaver, Oh ok, I should have a link in the description for the whole set. If you just need the socket then I'm not sure who would sell it individually. Maybe ebay might have something. Here is the link: Ball Joint Service Set: amzn.to/3mIMdhz

[@Benz242]

Last what is the last panel you removed call it's. Plastic and covers the transmission.... My S430. Doesn't have one. Need the NAME OF PART.....

[@georgebuencamino]

Hi, do you have a video for the upper control arms?

[@GarageDynamics]

Hello George Buencamino, at the moment I do not. I will definitely get started on that. :)

[@ThEDIPPA1]

Excellent Tutorial! Thanks! One question, how to you get the jack stands in the jack location if you used a jack to raise the vehicle? Did you use the jack that comes with the car or a floor jack? I like how high you are able to get the front off the ground!

[@GarageDynamics]

Thank you Fairgame70! For the S500 it has a dedicated jack mount located in the center between the front wheels. If you watch my transmission tuturial, it explains how to lift the car and sit it on jack stands. Here is the link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eKDWi5Sfh8eIsLM I used a low profile long reach floor jack that has a 24 inch lift to raise the car. Then I lowered the car onto jack stands. The height definitely helps a lot.

[@ThEDIPPA1]

@@GarageDynamics thanks for the valuable information! I have a 02 CL55 and I prop a jack underneath where the side jack holes are located. I will need this information because I’m about to do mine! 👍🏽

[@GarageDynamics]

@@ThEDIPPA1 Awesome! Enjoy replacing your ball joints! Cheers!

[@ThEDIPPA1]

@@GarageDynamics I have one more question if you don’t mind. I just had someone replace my radiator and the fan came on when I first started the vehicle to put antifreeze in. we where trying to bleed the system of air but it took awhile and lots of lost antifreeze however still the “Coolant visit workshop” dash light keeps coming on as well as the temperature raises to 100 or so. Well I noticed the fan wasn’t turning on or the a/c compressor when I attempted to run it to make the fan come on. I’ve checked the plug (it’s in), tested the plug to see if it’s getting power (it is), looked for any blown fuses and didn’t see any. Do you have any idea what is happening? 02 cl55?

[@GarageDynamics]

@@ThEDIPPA1 It's hard to say without looking at the car. I would double check to make sure all the air is out of the cooling system. Also Check www.mbworld.org The people there might be able to steer you in the right direction, or you can visit a certified Mercdes benz mechanic and ask for the opinion. I hope this helps. Cheers!

[@thomash2806]

Hi. Thanks for the video. Can worn ball joints cause a constant slight vibration that is felt more the faster you go? I’ve just had my wheels rebalanced to make sure they’re good, which improved things greatly but a slight clunk from the front right over bumps and a persistent small vibration make me question the ball joints. There’s also an intermittent squeak from the front left that I assumed was the brake but could that be ball joint-related, too? I’m thinking it may be time to get all four changed just to make sure. I don’t think they have ever been changed. 2002 S320 196kkm (122k miles).

[@GarageDynamics]

Hello Thomas Hillier, Yes, worn ball joints can cause all sorts of strange problems. If you have never replaced any of your ball joints I would definitely replace the main lower ball joint, the lower control arm (that's known for squeaking) and your thrust arm. Check to see if the rubber is cracked on your thrust arm. I hope this helps. Cheers!

[@thomash2806]

@@GarageDynamics Thank you!

[@GarageDynamics]

@@thomash2806 You're welcome! :)

[@GarageDynamics]

Hello Thomas, I believe I had about 170k on the car before I changed the ball joint. I would suggest changing sooner depending on the type of roads you drive on.

[@Moist_Handshakes]

I noticed your sway bar was wet with oil. What's leaking? I just fixed my leaking ABC pump and I'm in debt now.

[@GarageDynamics]

Hey Maurice! Good to see you as always! It's the transmission that's leaking. The thing is, it has always been leaking. I think it's coming from the black plastic cover on the bottom of the transmission housing. I'll fix it and some point haha! Congratulations on fixing your ABC, but that's unfortunate that it destroyed your wallet. I believe you'll recover! 🙏

[@douglasweaver4194]

Where did you get the piece at the bottom for the ball joint.

[@GarageDynamics]

Hello Douglas Weaver, Are you talking about the piece that attaches to the big C clamp, that pushes the ball joint into place, or the piece that separates the ball joint from the steering knuckle?

[@stevenlawrence278]

I wish my ball joint were so easy to crack. I have done both sides arms on my S55, and broke 2 separators for my trouble! On my car the screws on the bottom of the strut, are female type torx head, dead easy to round off if the car has done a few miles. I notice that your car has male type screws, have you swapped these previously, are they tapered as the standard type are, and where can I get them? Question, both arms have elongated slots in the end that fits onto the chassis. When I turn the wheel on full left hand lock, the arms contact each other and produce loud banging noises. Both the arms have wear on them, not enough to fail the yearly test, or be dangerous, but its quite embarrassing when I am trying to park in the supermarket car park. Have you ever encountered this before, and would the adjustment on these slots be enough? It does look to me like the camber is out, the wheel looks further in at the top.

[@GarageDynamics]

Hello Steven Lawrence! That's a bummer to hear that. Sometimes applying heat or penetrating lubricant will help. Also, what type of separator are you using? Is it the silver aluminum one, or the black steel one? I bent the silver aluminum one before, but once I switched to the steel separator I never had that problem again. All of my screws are original and have never been replaced. I know what you mean about the embarrassing noise at the supermarket. I didn't have the banging metal noise, but I had the very loud squeak haha! 😅 For my particular model (base) the camber and caster are all preset and non adjustable. It would be nice to have adjustments for those.

[@stevenlawrence278]

@@GarageDynamics I`ve used all types, the only one I have Found that does the job (eventually, and with a lot of swearing and bleeding) is the heavy duty G-Clamp type that I got as a press set. Using that, and an air wrench, as long as it does not slip, the joint will crack. If you look on the arms, the end that goes to the chassis has an elongated hole, and I was hoping that these were to adjust the camber with. If not there are sites that sell offset bolts that do the trick. Odd about those screws, MB would have been much better off using your type. Just a thought is your an airmatic or ABC, Mine was an ABC, so I wonder if that's anything to do with it.

[@GarageDynamics]

@@stevenlawrence278 Hahaha yeah sometimes the swearing and bleeding is apart of the job 😂 Yes, I agree. The G-Clamp is the way to go. You are correct, there is an elongated hole, however, there are spines that prevent the bolt from moving. I guess if you mill out the spines then you can adjust camber and caster, but that would be at your own risk, or you could just be the offset bolts. Mine is airmatic, and that could have something to do with it.

[@Moist_Handshakes]

Yuck, not looking forward to rebuilding the entire suspension on my Mercedes. Nothing loose for now.

[@GarageDynamics]

hahaha! Yeah, it's a job for sure! The cool thing is that at least you'll only have to do it once lol!

[@georgeanddaddecker7563]

Mileage for these old ball joints?

[@GarageDynamics]

Hello GeorgeandDad Decker, I put about 170k on them before I swapped em out.

[@SDMF5000]

Time for some new tires too....

[@GarageDynamics]

Hello SDMF, haha! I put new tires on the car shortly after making this video :)

[@dantspa908]

Is alignment necessary after you change lower control arms?

[@GarageDynamics]

Hello Dantspa, Yes, anytime you replace steering and suspension components, it is a good idea to align steering geometry, or at least get it checked for accuracy.

[@tothiusbentheum2071]

You didn't explain how the wheels can steer with two lower ball joint or three in total. Those two lower arms are rigged and the bushing have little play, so why did they do it and what's going on? Tesla uses it and so does the new Mustang and Camaro. Most mechanics don't know and with German cars they don't want to know. Do you know?

[@GarageDynamics]

Hello Tothius Bentheum, You bring up a very good question. I do not know why at this time. I definitely want to know, so ill be off to my studies learning about your question. Thanks for leading me down this path to learn something new.

[@tothiusbentheum2071]

@@GarageDynamics You find two types of mechanics in a shop, one that knows how to replace and operate equipment and one that needs to know how and why it works. The ladder is the one who finds the flaw in it's design and is skilled in diagnostics. They often time are the ones tell the other what's wrong and what to do. Sadly there income is effected due to helping out everyone else! I think the twin lower ball joint pushes the front wheel in the turn forward as camber keeps tire patch at maximum and the inside tire is pulled back to help it make more of a difference? Not sure, but someone went to a lot of trouble with what seems crazy in the first place.