How to replace Mopar upper control arm bushings and ball joint

[@carnut1921]

I I see so may videos on how to take off the control arm bushing, and everyone complains about how difficult it is . Thanks for the information.

[@JonnyMopar]

You’re welcome car but.

[@purepony]

The only video that explains cam bolt adjustment! Thanks a million ‘n

[@JonnyMopar]

You’re welcome purepony.

[@keithhebert9334]

I call that iron pipe equalizer has served its purpose many times your charger is coming along nicely you got a lifetime of work in it's going to turn out to be a real nice ride

[@moparme2733]

Right on time as I am rebuilding my front end on my duster Thanks for sharing the knowledge!!!

[@JonnyMopar]

You bet. Good luck on your rebuild.

[@1968charger]

That was very helpful about adjusting the camber and castor, Thanks

[@DuddiesAdventure]

YES! The Good Ole Junk Iron Motivator! Great for increasing the leverage of any tool and testing the tinsel strength of any bolt! I sure appreciate you showing those awesome pictures of the 68-69 Chargers They sure did change a lot over the years, and you can't beat that 440 6 pack! HAHAHAHA Great episode Jonny! I really appreciate the shout out!! Your Charger is coming together great!!

[@andrewtreloar7389]

Tensile, not tinsel. Tinsel you put on Christmas trees!

[@chundulo]

Thank you for making this video you saved me some mula and gave me the confidence to do it myself. What is the size of the socket for the ball joint please????

[@JonnyMopar]

It doesn't say what size it is. But there's basically 2 sizes. A small one for 72 and older A bodies and a big one for B, E and 73 and later A bodies. Here's the link www.manciniracing.com/maraabebotok.html

[@chundulo]

@@JonnyMopar Thank you!!!

[@JonnyMopar]

@@chundulo You’re welcome.

[@blakenewton2781]

two words.... Firm Feel. I got their UCA and now that part is done. You might have to put MOOG's UCA " problem solver" kit otherwise in otherwise with a custom angling job in order to get caster and camber in the at least late 20th century. but with the offset bushings it really effects bushing lifespan. Cool videos though. I like the uniquely Mopar perspective. I have Energy Suspension parts too...

[@JonnyMopar]

Thanks Blake.

[@IronHorseGarage]

Awesome sir!!! One piece at a time!!!!

[@garyhelms1889]

Dont know if you still respond to this video but where do you set you bolt cams for that upper arm?? Did you mark the original spots and just put them back there??

[@JonnyMopar]

I put them back in about center. I don’t mark them cause I’m sure it’ll change with the new parts. They’re going to adjust them when you have it aligned.

[@MuscleCityMadness]

Lot of work man. But it's stuff we don't have to do everyday once done your good to go! 🤘

[@kurtmccarthy6733]

Explained it perfectly my friend !!

[@raymondpauze8801]

Just did this on an 89 D250, I try and put the bushings in the freezer about an hour before and they go in way faster and don't fight as much. I've seen having to tack weld the upper ball joints to the control arm because those threads aren't very big and pull out.

[@leorodriguez6917]

Hello my friend thank you for your video was great, I have a Coronet 70 and I would like to refurbish the fr suspensión so, Can you let me know whole components list that I need yo purchasing?

[@JonnyMopar]

Thanks man. Just go to Just Suspension or PST, they sell complete rebuild kits. The pitman and idler arm and inner tie raids are usually separate but you should replace those too.

[@jimdrechsel3611]

Great video. Did you put collars back on one of the bushing from the inside? I was wondering if it was ready needed cause mine came with a collar pressed on one bushing.

[@JonnyMopar]

Hey Jim. I’m not sure I’m understanding you right. Are you talking about the bushing or the tool. I think you’re talking about the bushing. The bushing has an inner and outer sleeve. I didn’t separate any of that. Just pressed them out and pressed them in. I might have been this video but I had the rubber get damaged before and when I removed it it came apart. But I pulled the sleeve out. Hope that helps. If I understood you wrong hit me up.

[@jimdrechsel3611]

@@JonnyMopar I’m referring to an additional sleeve pressed over the bushing once the bushing is pressed into place. It’s about 3/4 wide and 1/16 thick collar. The upper control arm bushings had them installed on some of the cars. I heard on HD applications. Only one bushing had the additional sleeve pressed over it. Hope that makes sense. I can’t attach a picture.

[@JonnyMopar]

@@jimdrechsel3611 I see. I’ve never seen the additional sleeve. So I assume it’s not really needed unless perhaps, like you said, you’re going to race the car and require the extra strength. Very interesting. I can see how it could beef it up a bit.

[@jimdrechsel3611]

@@JonnyMopar I’ve heard from those who have worked on front ends and say that they are not necessary but there’s always a few who say it’s there for a reason. Most production cars I’ve heard did not have them installed. Thank you for the replies and sharing the video.

[@nkcwilliams]

So were did you get that tool to install the bushings? Thanks

[@JonnyMopar]

I think Mancini Racing or on eBay.

[@jakebridgetimpastato5622]

Great vid I’m about to do my 69 roadrunner and this was a huge help!!

[@moparnut6286]

Another great video man! Loving it the charger should ride pretty nice when your done.

[@moparnut6286]

@@JonnyMopar if you want low then increase spring rate to compensate to keep the ride firm and flat..... Still won't be a speed bump queen but you'll pull some lateral Gs!! Lol

[@moparnut6286]

@@JonnyMopar yeah most definitely fine to reuse the T bars... the other way is to run two inch lowered spindles and lowering blocks out back any way it going to be a sweet ride.

[@moparnut6286]

@@JonnyMopar sweet parts!!!

[@jkhingen9260]

I just replaced my entire suspension on my 84 D150 but getting the Camber Bolts out was not easy and I damaged some of the ledges on the outside not inside portion of the bracket that the round part of bolt rides on. I cannot find new ones to replace them with so having the outside ledges missing cause a big issue if the insides are there? I have driven the truck a little and getting an increasing vibration with speed & gear, especially 3rd and 4th. Hoping an alignment resolves it not sure anyone will do it without those ledges.

[@JonnyMopar]

Oh man. Yeah, those ledges are there for adjustment. I can’t imagine how they would be able to align it without those. I guess they can use a hammer but it’s not going to be easy for fine adjustment. Good luck man.

[@Jarritos440]

Awesome video, helped out so much! The kit I found but the sockets are both types of ball joints? I’m doing a Mopar C body? Just curious

[@JonnyMopar]

Awesome, glad it’s helpful. I’m actually not sure on the C body. I’m guessing it’s the larger one, same as B body but it’s probably worth joining some C body groups on Facebook to ask and make sure.

[@Jarritos440]

@@JonnyMopar very much appreciated!

[@JonnyMopar]

@@Jarritos440 Anytime TX, good luck on the C body.

[@ClagwellsGarage]

Upper ball joints are typically self tapping into the control arm. If possible, its best to get the new ball joint to thread into the old pattern. The fact that it was difficult towards the end is desirable.

[@JonnyMopar]

It’s not self tapping on Mopars. They’re actually threaded. It’s a very shallow thread but it’s a thread. But yeah man. They are tight as hell to screw in.

[@thomask.2953]

What is the removal tool you are using ?

[@JonnyMopar]

www.manciniracing.com/mopp4120200a.html

[@8092DJ]

Thank you!

[@JonnyMopar]

You're welcome!

[@mmmikeru83]

Great vid!

[@JonnyMopar]

Thanks mmmikeru

[@EamonnSeoigh]

Here’s something not mentioned. Check the dimensions of the pocket the bushing fits in. When you are pushing old bushings out, you may break them into pieces. Lots of guys and gals behind the parts counter weren’t born when these vehicles were around, and Mopar is notorious for their parts fitment, making any assumptions about whether or not you have the correct part risky. Before installing the new bushings into the control arms, make sure they’re going to fit by knowing ahead of time the correct mounting width. It will save you money wasting your time and not being able to return parts you’ve tried to install. I ordered upper control arm bushings for a 1979 D100 Adventurer that were .100” too long. They were likely for a later year post 1982. Parts guy assumed the first gen run, from 1972 to 1984, were the same for the lighter duty pickups as the Ram line took over. Apparently not.

[@JonnyMopar]

Good point Ted. I’ll try to remember that. I usually assume it’s the right part or the manufacturer made it wrong.

[@EamonnSeoigh]

@@JonnyMopar the ones I ordered were Mevotech. They're a Canadian company that are known for high quality parts of superior materials, and many suppliers rebrand them as their own house brand. The width on the mountings are 2.136" to 2.148". The bushings I was supplied were 2.216". I might be able to break the caps, and grind the sleeve and rubber sufficiently to take them down, and press the caps back in. I know I'm not going to get a refund because I'd already tried to install them. If this doesn't work, I may just machine up tubes and go to poly bushings.

[@andrewtreloar7389]

What bushings are those Jonny?

[@JonnyMopar]

I don't know. I've had them for awhile. Just used what I had laying around. I think they were Energy Suspension but can't swear to it.

[@daneyal23]

Thanks mate

[@JonnyMopar]

You’re welcome buddy.

[@richardparis8738]

Is that a b-body what size socket

[@JonnyMopar]

Not sure the socket size. The one in the video is B body. There’s only two Mopar Ball Joint sockets. B body and 73 and later A body and the other is 72 and older A body. Mancini racing has both. www.manciniracing.com/upbajosobebo.html

[@kurtmccarthy6733]

Geez, don’t you own an Impact wrench Maaan ? Life would be easier !!

[@jimJones-cd4uw]

No light c see Jack ssss

[@Manifesto2091]

Cheatinator 3000