How To Replace RADIATOR HOSES

[@AZ-vg6li]

On my 73,the situation was even worst due to the transmission oil cooling tubes…a nightmare! Thanks for sharing!

[@76vette]

Yeah, they can be very challenging at times, to put it mildly. 😊👍🏻

[@vettegreaser6590]

Your video helped me by giving me the support needed to do it. Bottom was a definite PITA! I started it through the top. Even with A/C compressor off, it was difficult. I ended up coating the inside of the hose that attaches at the radiator, with Dawn dishwashing liquid. I put a little on my finger and smeared inside the hose. It made all the difference. I figure if it’s safe enough for baby animals, it’s fine for my radiator hose. Thanks!

[@76vette]

I think replacing the lower radiator hose is one of the toughest jobs on a C3 Corvette, so kudos to you! 😊👍🏻 And YES on the dishwashing liquid. Good for small animals, safe for rubber products, and may also soften your skin. lol 😆 Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻

[@matth.2801]

Thanks for the video. I've spent more than an hour trying to get that darn hose on my 76. I think I'll try removing the whole hose and do it this way. What a pain indeed.

[@76vette]

Good luck! Let me know how it turns out.

[@mikehennington492]

Keep the videos coming love watching them.

[@76vette]

Thank you! 😊👍🏻

[@ed78vette]

If I remember correctly, back in the 70’s, timing can affect the water temp.

[@sondabrown7373]

Great video! I never used so much foul language in all my life prior to changing that lower hose...haha! omgggg...I will neverrrrrrrrrr change it again!

[@76vette]

I deleted a lot of footage because of bad language as I was afraid KZbin would ban me. haha 😂 Much respect to you for getting the job done! 😊😊💯

[@NETONE247]

Where did you get a spring loaded hose? I am having a real hard time with that for my 75. Mine is overheating if I push it a little because the hose collapses with the pull from the pump. Thanks

[@76vette]

Most auto parts stores or you can also buy a universal spring and insert it in the hose. Also check www.summitracing.com/ or www.jegs.com

[@DOMINION4x4]

I'll suggest you get a temperature gauge at your local auto store and hook it up to the port next to the water. Also a new thermostat can be defective. Good luck

[@76vette]

Thanks. Right now I’m in the process of installing a new aluminum rad (3-row) so it’ll be a few days before I’m done with that and other related projects. I always fall victim to the “While I’m here I might as well...” routine. 🙄

[@mikehennington492]

Lmao he said what a pain in the ass! I shouldn't laugh because that's gonna be me when I do mine.

[@76vette]

Yes. I promise you will cuss like never before. 😆

[@aboutmyfathersbusiness8324]

Yep i think you are ok. I saw the needle keep climbing to redline then saw it pull away fast back to 225 / 230. Thats when the thermostat opened. I'm guessing your 230 is in reality your 195/190 (bad gauge) I'm at 195 to 199 at operating temp at the neck just like you. I'd bet it's the gauge. On a dry/burp start, my gauge gets to about 205 then when the stat opens, drops to about 190 /195 very quickly as cool uncirculated water rushes in. As for that hose, yes it's a PITA haha I'm surprised it didnt have a collapse coil spring inside. I don't really think you need it but it is good piece of mind.

[@aboutmyfathersbusiness8324]

P.S. alot of those aftermarket hoses are "cut to fit". Maybe would have been a bit easier if you cut an half inch off each end. Seemed to have matched better the original hose. I only use Gates and on my PM list change them out every 40 to 50K or when they get swollen /squeeze easy.

[@76vette]

Hope you’re right. 😊👍🏻

[@bobkinney7913]

As an old steelworker once told me....."Use lube, If the head fits, the rest will follow."

[@76vette]

LMAO! 😂 I’ll have to borrow that quote sometime in the future. It reminded me of my days bucking rivets on an airplane I was building. Too funny. 👍🏻

[@pattygq]

That's exactly how I did mine but I don't have AC so I was able to stand on the right side of the car and shove my left arm down and under the control arm so I was able to grab the lower radiator hose and I spent 10 minutes working it up and down and eventually it broke free. The clamp must be accessible from the bottom. There's no way to do this from the top. I had to cut about 1" off the replacement hose (rockauto.com) as it was bending too much where it turns and goes into the water pump along with taking a piece of emery cloth from below and cleaned up the end of the pipe. I liberally sprayed Ballistol in the lower end of the hose, wiped it around, and that was enough to get it to slip on nicely. I forced it up and down from above to get the hose to go as far as it would on the lower radiator pipe. The I just tightened up a single new clamp from below. I sized up the correct clamp weeks earlier. Your lower radiator hose didn't have the long coil spring inside? I was expecting mine to be rusted and broken but it was still in once piece and shiny. I don't think it was stainless as I tested with a magnet and it attached instantly. Could have been zinc plated. I did find some rust in the system but it seemed to have come from the original water pump. I did do a fair bit of reading online and half the comments were about how if the spring was not installed, the lower radiator hose could collapse on acceleration from the suction of the pump and the other half of people said they were fine without using it? I mean I could see if the hose was really fatigued then it could collapse on itself while accelerating since the hose does have a pretty large diameter compared to the top hose. There has to be some sort of correlation between the hose diameter and the water pump suction pressure for them to have used the spring from the factory to keep the line open. Maybe the hose walls back then were thinner than today's hoses? I chose to put my spring back in since it wasn't rusted out and I didn't need another car part in the garage lol. It should only encompass the straight section of hose and not the bend. I'd replace your radiator cap and check to make sure there's coolant in the reservoir tank up to the cold line when the engine is cool. I don't know what sucked worse, changing the brake booster or doing the lower radiator hose lol.

[@76vette]

I bought Ideal Smart Seal clamps at Advance, and they look far better than traditional hose clamps, so I may just use one this time. My lower hose did not have the anti-collapse spring and I think (hope) that 40+ years later both new materials and fabrication methods will prevent collapse due to vacuum in the system. You can buy those springs today, but if yours was in good shape it's added insurance and peace of mind, right? My new Champion radiator came with a cap which I believe is rated at 13 psi. I've never done a brake booster in a C3. Not yet, anyway. lol