How to Replace the PCV Diaphragm on a Volvo T5 [Money Saving Way]

How to replace the positive crankcase ventilation, or for short pcv diaphragm on your Volvo T5 engine. The car I’m working with is a 2007 Volvo C30 T5, the T5 engine depending on the model does come with a couple different styles of PCV systems. This engine has the heated PCV system and it comes as an assembly with the oil filter housing which is about $300 from the dealer. The other style is basically a plastic box which includes an oil trap instead and is about a quarter of the price. There is only one source on Ebay who makes a new diaphragm, everyone else only sells a filter housing replacement. The new diaphragm was about $10 and the fastest shipping method was about $50 to Canada. #volvo #volvot5 #volvoc30
Eventually with heat and age, the rubber diaphragm will crack and break. When this happens, the car will make a howling sounds, almost as if you have a faulty idler pulley bearing. However the sound only happens at idle. When this happens, you can drive the vehicle but not for long. It’ll cause excessive vacuum in the engine, if driving the vehicle for an extended period of time, it will cause damage to your camshaft and crankshaft seals. Another way to tell if the diaphragm has failed is by pulling up the dipstick or open the oil fill cap in the valve cover. You’ll notice a strong vacuum. When those areas are open, the sound will also disappear. I have also found the sound is much quieter when the engine is colder vs when it’s up to operating temperature. The turbo will also not stay in boost and if driven long enough, a check engine light will be triggered which maybe a P2187 which means the engine is running lean at idle.
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-standard screwdriver
-OBD2 code reader
-new diaphragm
-socket set with ratchet
-flashlight
Procedure:
-ensure your engine is cold when working on it
-start by removing the air duct going to the air box by removing the two 8mm bolts on the radiator support
-pull up the first portion of the duct to unclip it and then remove the lower portion
-there is another round cap that needs to be removed
-this is removing by using a small pry tool or a standard screwdriver can also work, either push the tool between the cap and the plastic edging or pull the cap up by the little notch in the plastic edging
-once that cap is popped up, you can work it around to unclip it from the backside
-the diaphragm will most likely come out with the cap and there will be a spring left inside the assembly
-then remove the spring
-clean the cap and inside of the pcv valve area to remove any oil residue or build up
-pull the diaphragm from the cap and now you can see the split which was causing the issues
-ensure the spring is clean before reinstalling
-install the spring
-the position of the new diaphragm, the black plastic ring faces down and the spring sits inside the recessed area
-getting this back together can be quite tricky
-considering it’s such a tight space with minimal room to work and you can’t get a clear view
-you may need to feel around to some extent, from what I’ve found, install the spring and diaphragm together, the spring must be compressed and then release it when it’s above the hole on it’s alignment tab
-you can push the diaphragm down with a long screwdriver from the top between the intake runners, then slowly work the cap into place
-try to snap the cap on the rear first, then finish up with the wrong
-the long screwdriver can be used for added leverage to pop the cap down as it’s a tight connection
-starting the engine to verify the repair is successful
-as a final step, the check engine light should be cleared
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© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

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[@Alejandro-jn5kv]

i went to multiple "specialists" and even the volvo agency in Mexico and nobody can resolve this problem until i found this video, thank you so much

[@MrMasterFlash]

This only took me 1/2 hour! A few hints: You can just yank the airbox up (pretty hard) and gain an inch or two I just loosened the hose clamp to the air-intake pipe. No need to remove any other screws. Also, I sharpened an old screwdriver to get it in between the seam (which is hard to see), then twisted it to start removing the cap. Last, make sure the cap is back down tight! I thought it was tight but then used a wooden handle of a hammer, prying against the boss where the airbox was attached, and it went down further. I did it in a few spots on top of the cap.

[@brianbraley8710]

I managed to change out the diaphragms and I think it's important for others to know that there may not be a notch on the cap and possibly more importantly, I feel a need to point out the seem between the cap and the housing is virtually invisible. Vanos sends you information for links and photos to help one remove/ install the the diaphragm and in their photos, one can see the sliver of a gap between the cover and the housing. Pry in between that sliver to remove the cap. Getting it back on was a snap...LOL

[@petedandrea8463]

I did this to my xc70 recently and was a way easier operation. IPD sell the diaphragm for a couple of bucks too now fyi

[@vijayvjn6874]

I would like to thank you for the time in making this video , i never realized that the top cap of the pcv valve was designed to be popped off in that manner and replacement rubber diaphragms where available in that dimensions , have a good day and thank you for your time

[@christophercaffrey9717]

Amazing! Same diaphragm worked on my 2013 Volvo S 60 T5. Two different Volvo dealers told me I needed a new engine and a new transmission. They vehemently denied that it was the PCV system as I suggested. $50 and 20 minutes of labor saved me over $10,000

[@dailydrivendiecast]

How long did it take to get to you?

[@obliviousorange287]

Amazing video, but I have a question about this. So in the video, the symptom of the PCV going bad is if there's a strong-ish vacuum on the oil filler cap and dipstick. But around the internet, I see the "glove test" used to indicate the health of the PCV; you open oil filler cap, put a latex glove over it and start the engine. With this test, the PCV is supposed to be good if there's a vacuum, and bad if the glove inflates. Isn't this at odds with the idea of a vacuum effect being bad? Or am I just confused.

[@Themix314]

I'm still struggling to get the cap off. It's not as easy as it looks. I don't know what else to do

[@tockymonable]

Seems i am the only one, but in trying to pry off the cap the whole plastic assembly split open just above the filter housing. £1000 it is then 😢

[@aokjao831]

My “reliable” mechanic charged me $270 for the oil housing part + $500 labor work. Note that I had replaced the oil housing + manifold intake gasket with him 9 months before.

[@Colby_boo_brawner]

You know , you did make removing that cap look a lot easier than it was . That being said this was the best, straight forward and perfectly described video I’ve ever watched. You covered everything from describing the problem, to how the vehicle reacts ,to the trouble codes finally ending with the correct repair . Well done sir!

[@gman1185]

Saved me hundreds maybe thousands, sharped old screwdriver popped off, fixed in 15 minutes including time to sharpen screwdriver, well done sir!

[@stephendunn577]

Just wanted to write in to say thank you as well. I live 2000km from the nearest Volvo service centre (temporarily on a work contract) and the other mechanics in my town only like working on Toyotas. I would not have been able to get this fixed without paying $2000 to truck it elsewhere and back. You’re a real lifesaver, thank you!

[@antoinedumont65]

Thank you so much for sharing this content. First it is of great help for all of us that have Volvos, I have a C70 T5, and second, the quality of the videos are great!! Please keep making videos!

[@donaldkenan7763]

Thank you so much for the useful information I was able to remedy the problem myself without having to spend multiple dollars on a new unit as well as someone to put it in I appreciate the informative videos and I can't wait to see more

[@RayMainBagpiper]

Money saver !!! I just watched a video in which it looked like fixing that was going to be a two day job for a person who works full time. The other vid showed replacing the entire assembly !! Holy Cow !!

[@roysmith7359]

Thanks very much for posting this. $20 fix to a $200 problem. Easy to follow your guide.

[@Preluding99]

Your video was most excellent and even though I’m working on a 2011 XC90 3.2L engine - the symptoms and similar engine codes appeared.