How To Scribe Baseboards Like a 20 Year Pro!

[@TheMarc52]

Very smart. Good tips. Over thirty years, I probably scribed thousands of feet of base, trim, crown, ceiling panels, and everything else you can think of, in very high-end homes. I always used a jigsaw set to about 30 to 40 degrees for a nice thin edge, and used a block plane on that thin edge to go right to the line. The block plane is very fast, very accurate, very easy to control, you can hold the work in your hand, and it makes no dust or noise so I could make final adjustments right in the client's home for a perfect fit without making a mess. I'm not saying it's better than other methods, but it sure worked well for me.

[@Bigelite094]

I like to use a marking knife, table saw beveled, then finished with a small block plane. The block plane works like butter since your only working a small sliver of a beveled edge and with the marking knife score, the shaving is obvious when to stop.

[@tatepinto6285]

Block plane is best. Especially when dust is a concern

[@IedfIoyd]

This is the way.

[@brandonhoffman4712]

I cut on a 10 degree bevel leaving excess past the line. Come back with a jig saw set square if needed to follow curves the table saw didnt like. Then i sand the line off with my rotex. If its hard wood, ill use the rotex mode, if its a baseboard ill use the random orbit. Sometimes ill come back with a hand sanding block, but would prefer a hand plane in that case. My main goal is to leave 1/3 of the wood flat @ the edge, increasing strength. It matters more if you're using these techniques on hardwood flooring or something you would be stepping on. With engineered hardwoods i try to keep the full wear layer of the wood. In case they get their floors refinished, then gaps dont start peeking out @ edges.

[@demontekdigital1704]

I used a lot of your techniques when I replaced the door trim for my bedroom closets, and though it was my first time, and I completely sucked at it, the job came out looking pretty dang decent. Not perfect enough to be considered craftsman level, but better than the original installer job. The one valuable lesson I learned is calk hides sins, lol. Thank you!

[@Joetime90]

Caulk and paint make a carpenter what he ain't. Unless you mess it up that badly.

[@elainehiggins7544]

I wanted to let you know how helpful your channel has been to me: thanks to the instruction on your channel, the results of a recent redecorating project have turned out stunningly adequate. I recently repaired extensive drywall damage in a spare bedroom, painted the walls and ceiling, and removed and replaced the 2-inch high 1960's era baseboard with a higher profile without removing the carpet from the floor. I couldn't find your recommended products for filling nail holes in Texas, so I used DAP Premium Wood Filler and it did a nice job, only needing one coat before painting touchup. Much appreciation to you!

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Thanks for the message Elaine! I’m happy to hear the videos are helping you fix up your place:)

[@John-hq6em]

“Stunningly adequate!!!” I love it! I think I will steal that line. 😊

[@elainehiggins7544]

@@John-hq6em Employ with abandon: no attribution required.

[@leighgraham]

I liked seeing the belt sander in action. Had not thought about using across the baseboard like that.

[@lint2023]

The small belt sanders are awesome. So easy to handle. Easily a one handed tool. I find it hard to keep it at home after my buddies learned this!

[@brandonhoffman4712]

Festool rotex. Belt sander and random orbit in one tool. I have the 150mm and 90mm. The 90 even has triangle pads to get in corners. In my experience the 150 leaves a far better finish than any belt sander. It might be slightly slower, but will still sand nail heads right off nails in a subfloor.

[@trig]

Some great suggestions. If I am in a hurry and its a small scribe I find a few coins and an inch of masking tape does the trick. Most of the time I find a square carpenters pencil, with the lead sharpened off center, will do the job fine on its own.

[@juleeleison2686]

Thanks! Simple, clear instructions, no need to go get a scribing tool. I'm installing a lot of baseboard on a very uneven floor and have been fighting a hump.

[@gillgetter3004]

I’ve always used a scribe, worked with a guy who had a handful of washers of various sizes, roll against base with pencil at bottom of washer. The belt sander is good, I first used that with backsplashes on laminate on top. The walls were really bad in an apartment building that was being renovated. We would leave the laminate on top of backsplash long and scribe top and take it off with the belt. Worked like a charm

[@calvinhobbes6118]

This is why I always use shoe molding, but then again, my specialty is flooring and tile, which as you know encapsulates lots of trim work.

[@brandonhoffman4712]

I specialize in tile, stone, hardwood, millwork, and finish carpentry. I dont like base shoe. I tell customers it is what i would recommend for a rental property. I recommend that they have the baseboards removed and replaced for the best look. I offer it to them as a service. There are many ways to do things and i always recommend the best look, but still provide options to go a cheaper route. My floors tend to wind up pretty flat. Normally not requiring any scribing, but when they do need it i give it that finishing touch. So far i have a track record of making customers love me and retaining them. I began in tile with my father @ 17, im now 39, run my own operation and have diversified into areas that interest me. My next area of expertise is finishing, everything from stains to paints. Im working on getting my general license right now too.

[@luisgonzalez8415]

Had no idea about scribing baseboards to fit. As a homeowner I will do this next time I install, or request it be done by an installer. Thanks for the tip.

[@jayadinash9102]

When using a table saw for scribing, I like to set an angle on the blade to make for easier sanding (kind of like what you did with the circular saw).

[@mattd9171]

this one was the more useful scribing videios ive seen. I used this technique to scribe my new stair treads to the my risers (they were bowed, bad construction).

[@rpaasse6453]

Now thats a trick of the trade with the shims. Thank you very much sir!! I'll put it to good use with my sideboards.

[@NormanRamsey]

For pine baseboards, the trimming goes very quickly with a block plane. And a moment of inattention (or in my case incompetence) won't ruin the piece the way it would with a power tool.

[@brandonhoffman4712]

I cut on a 10 degree bevel leaving excess past the line with the table saw, then jigsaw any areas the table saw didnt want to contour with. Then i come in with my random orbit and sand the line off. I do my final touch up with a hand sanding block, but a block plane would probably be better for that final touch up, i just dont have one. My goal when using this technique is to leave 25-33% of the front edge flat, to retain strength and provide longevity. If im doing it on engineered hardwoon, i try to leave the full wear layer flat. In case they get their floors refinished.

[@johnaustin635]

@@brandonhoffman4712 Christ man I wouldn’t like to pay you by the hour , using a hand panel saw a block plane and box rule for scribing the job would be done before you got your tools out .

[@brandonhoffman4712]

@@johnaustin635 I wouldnt hire you to use your grand dads tools on my job. Id be setup before you made a mark on a piece of wood and flying right by you as you begin mitering your millwork by hand old man. Dont forget your finish hammer and loose brad nails to finish it all up like yesteryear. You couldnt afford my quality work anyway so dont kid yourself thinking you could. Based off your description of how you would intend me to work, i would never agree to a contract with you anyway. My standards are set to the multi million dollar mansions i work in and the quality that is expected to produce one. Not some farm house in texas.

[@thezfunk]

I bought my small Bosch 12V planer for this exact situation. Works great for shaving down baseboards.

[@ClifftopTragedy]

This is useful to know for certain situations. I'm about to take on an old house and will need to do all sorts of work so I want to have as many tricks and the right tools to make it better an easier. Maybe we need fancy corner trim blocks to make slightly different heights invisible.

[@ole-bboy5875]

After years of finish carpentry I've mostly use a god old metal ball bearing compass cost a couple bucks just kept it in my bags also your pencil laid flat. When the bottom side of the baseboard is beveled you can take care of the gaps with your block plane or sanding block.

[@DazedPhasesofLazerbeams]

Ive got a good one for you. You're installing base underneath wall paneling. The base has to be ran so that you leave a consistent 1/4" reveal between the top of the base and the bottom of the wall panels. And you have to scribe 7" base down to 4" at its lowest point. I ran into this problem on a commercial job a while back.

[@markarita3]

5:42 flap disk works awesome too. Awesome tips, thanks!

[@whaler3232]

Excellent video, I'm re-doing my basement trim this spring so this will help!

[@brandonhoffman4712]

Except his method won't service a whole room. Just a slight issue somewhere, and not in a proper fashion. Fine for basements though! Just not for the tea room...

[@ErgoCogita]

Sharpen a carpenters pencil to a point on one edge of the graphite. That gives you two reference points with about 3/16 difference between one edge and the other. When scribing, hold the pencil at the appropriate angle for the offset of the base. I’ve installed thousands upon thousands of feet of base using that technique and it has never steered me wrong.

[@lilbobpeep]

Oh my gosh, just came across your channel and the tips you are providing are validating so many suspicions I’ve had about how clueless many handymen think I am as a woman. Good grief the things I’ve been told. Thank you for doing God’s work. Just subscribed and going to try to tackle some of this myself.

[@gabriel_8801]

Great content. Thanks 🙏 I always wanted to know how the carpenters get around these issues in my old house with uneven floors.

[@jefff6167]

Perhaps the best baseboard scribe instructional content ever. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. 👍🇺🇸

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Thank you Jeff🍻

[@breeze787]

I almost didn't click on your video thinking "20 year pro"? Yeah right! But lucky for me that I did because after watching you a bit I could stand you. I like short and to the point and learned how to take care of the hump and the dip scenario. Look at that! I just added hump and dip to my vocabulary amazing for me anyways. Thanks for putting this up looking forward to more tips this one was awesome.

[@drockoe1522]

Thanks for an amazing and straight to the point video. Watched this and immediately used it on the job.

[@AaronPace93]

Thanks for this! For some reason I could never get this concept in my end and not many great videos exist.

[@jamisonr]

This is info I needed before I put down a couple hundred feet of baseboard in my basement! I opted for the caulking method and it is not satisfactory, I'm going to redo it all using these tips.

[@litlbit50]

You r truly funny but also a very gr8 teacher, thank you for sharing all your awesome knowledge with me and making me laugh along the way ya definitely make learning fun. You're the man!!!

[@rob-24971]

I find an angle grinder with a sanding disk on. It’s angled so bevels the edge back slightly so you get a tight fit.

[@patmat.]

wow thanks 🙏 your tutorials are absolutely the best.

[@WillLeingang]

Man I love the miter saw cam. Something oddly satisfying about that perspective. Great lighting, sharp blade... You are really upping your close-up game!

[@twocents6363]

Great tips. Just got through with huge job and wound up caulking! 😢

[@richardmogie2893]

Instead of shims under the board I use a couple of the plastic wedges that tile setters use. Takes seconds to slide them in to exactly the height needed.

[@straight_to_finish]

Another option is (if you have help) is to stand on the dip by using a long board and essentially build a bridge to stand on top of the base board to remove the majority of the gap, then scribe per usual.

[@randallthomas5207]

I use an oversize router table with an upshear bit. Just hand guide the piece to the line. Then finish with my small Porter Cable belt sander.

[@NimbleCalf]

Thanks man! Made me feel like a pro after just one try!

[@bandittelevision]

I like how you went over how much of a pain and mess it would be cutting the bottom of the baseboard. I would like to see this be done with a 12 or 16 ft length not 4 or 5 ft

[@acerjuglans383]

For the most part, scribers and shims are not needed. One regular sized pencil, and a thicker carpenter's pencil, or a pen, or a thin Sharpie, or a fat Sharpie.....just use the basics without over complicating things. And yes, a planer and belt sander combination works great.....as long as it's pro tools, and not the anemic Ridgid, or Ryobi, or Craftsman....

[@garyh4458]

If you cut down a board on the end then it may be lower than the board on the other side of the corner so it will have to be cut down, too. Probably should mention ways to handle that in more detail. One way is to slope a board. The other is to start with the board that requires the most cut off the bottom and base the others on that.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

For sure! I did have more discussion on this in the video but I cut it out, it dragged on for quite some time! I need to make a separate video about this.

[@nalanimulcahy8451]

Such great advice and really well explained and demonstrated. Can't wait to try this, thank you.

[@robertbiswanger3841]

A carpenter pencil is 1/2 inch wide and 1/4 inch thick. Using it on edge scribes at 1/4 inch and on flat scribes at 1/8 inch. The carpenter pencil is designed for multiple purposes. It's not flat so it won't roll.. lol

[@cwatson42785]

Shout out to my fellow free hand table saw guys! 💪🏼🍻 Great tips! I would always just use the tried and true just use a sharp pencil and end up cutting it 10 times lol

[@ondskabenselv]

Nice video! Would like to see an example of tilting the baseboard.

[@magnumjgjg]

This was a pretty awesome video, and you definitely saved me a few hours of dicking around. I have a thin rip jig for my table saw, so I actually measured the gap and cut three perfectly sized shims without having to stack anything. It was only like $25 on Amazon, might be worth grabbing one if you do this a lot

[@DannerCando-ev4fo]

Saw another tip elsewhere to cut the back side of the board with a 45 degree angle first so there’s less to cut/sand off. Not sure that would be wise for baseboards though.

[@bouganim]

So helpful for us DIYs. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!

[@YTubeSDD]

Good tips, but wish you had spent a little longer on exactly how to do it when two baseboards meet directly in the corner.

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Excellent point, I will probably make video in the future looking into this in more detail.

[@mla1927]

I second this. I’ve seen a bunch of scribing videos (and this one was great), but I don’t understand how you do a whole room that connects w/o having a weird final height.

[@TrainFlood]

100%!!

[@raminybhatti5740]

Nobody ever talks about it 😅

[@Billy_bSLAYER]

​@@mla1927This applies only between two termination points, like two doors.

[@Kearnsville]

Great videos and very helpful. How would you go about installing baseboards on a wall with metal studs?

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

I would use some caulking as a glue- a stripe top and bottom. And then use some 1-1/2” 18 gauge nails on a slight angle into the drywall to hold it in place will the caulking sets up. Wood glue the outside corners and nail them together.

[@ThisTall]

Good tips! 1 alternative to this kind of thing is that we could instead do a far better job of shaming framers and concrete guys for the absolute murder they get away with on a daily basis. And even push builders to force them both to use nothing longer then a 2ft level, instead of 6ft and lasers.

[@lvnn6198]

I love watching your videos. I don't even do construction myself, but I buy properties for contractors to fix up. As a female, they always think they can get one over on me until I tell them the correct, not corner cutting way to do things.

[@nelsod76]

Well presented! Tricks I’ve used and tips I can use in future. Beautiful.

[@TEX-704]

Find the low spot and roll with it. Caulk any small gaps and ready for paint.

[@danohara2211]

Best tip ever, wish I would of found this video before I did my base👍🏻

[@studioecotopia]

best technique for scribing on youtube

[@LABoyko]

Outtakes, baby! Always the best part!

[@ChrisFredriksson]

So awesome! So, so awesome! Thanks for showing us how to do this properly, the result is amazing! ❤

[@joostlourier2977]

Thank you for your tips and tricks. I learn a lot of it. Can you give the measurements of the Woodsticks in mm. I can’t hear it good enough to translate them. I am from Europe (:

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Great info, keep the videos coming 🙌

[@just.do.something]

What a great video. Thanks. Would this same method work for hard woods?

[@jeffwade451]

Hump in the middle … worked like a charm … I mean like a charm!!!

[@LarryB-inFL]

One of your best videos! Thanks!

[@abavariannormiepleb9470]

Suggestion for a related topic: How to make perfectly fitting shelf boards for walls that are intentionally extremely curved as a design choice by the architect. In my example these curves aren’t proper segments from a circle but something you would have to measure at each spot. As a lay person I’m wondering how to do this in the most proper way.

[@zafarsyed6437]

Nice. But I just recommend adding quarterrounds aka shoe molding and keep that tight to the ground.

[@nickel0eye]

yeah, quarter round isn't shoe molding...i absolutely hate when i see 1/4 round used as shoe, it's so tacky!

[@zafarsyed6437]

@@nickel0eye Yeah, most of it is shoe molding. It's very uncommon to actually use true quarterrounds-- as they would stick out further into the room and harder to bend to curves.

[@1001-u6r]

That looks terrible and shoe should only be used on a new flooring job where the base molding is not removed, and there needs to be a gap for expansion and contraction. If you are installing new base, there is no reason to use shoe. It’s a lazy crutch way of installing molding. Contractors love using shoe because it’s faster, easier and more profitable than doing the job the right way.

[@danielholm3420]

Gross, take some pride in your work

[@jeffhildreth9244]

@@1001-u6r "Contractors love using shoe because it’s faster, easier and more profitable than doing the job the right way." One of the many reasons I do things myself. There is the right way and every other way including what many "pros" do. Quick and dirty. Get the job, get it done, get the money, to hell with quality.

[@brandonhoffman4712]

Lol you told everyone skip the harder better way of scribing miters. You hang your moulding high. Either with a laser, or dynamically with shims. Then scribe it. I cut close to my line with either a table saw or jig saw. Then sand with a random orbit, 120 grit to the line. I take a little extra off the back @ a slight angle. Then finish with a hand sander, shucking like a planer to fine tune the edge. You cant fit a playing card in my gaps unless im messing up. Similar to my wood stair edges.

[@francoispayle9322]

I myself like the first steps for marking the base board,but I would prefer to take a router with a flush cutter with a bearing on the neck running against a straight edge on the pencil line after cutting back.

[@tillmansr2002]

Great video at 2:00 you show the classic dip, since the dip has both ends to be cut (lower) how does one reconcile the next boards adjacent to either side while will be 'full width' pieces as mentioned at 2:55?

[@danthechippie4439]

Great video, as I stated in one of your previous calk videos, just scribe it.

[@willmerrill7126]

Excellent and to the point! Thank you brother!

[@trumontstory686]

This skirting board, (base board), thing is really getting to you isn't it buddy! Keep the video's coming.

[@diastoleny]

Best video on the subject. Helped me out!!! Thanks

[@pleappleappleap]

Can you use an angle grinder?

[@nateitscake88]

You can do all this detailed work, nothing wrong with it. Or just use the shims to slightly raise and level the baseboard and slap on some shoe molding.

[@danielholm3420]

Horrible idea, that's the dodgy way

[@calvinhobbes6118]

Its not the 1920s anymore.@@danielholm3420

[@MadLadsAnonymous]

Is it good practice to use a tiny bit of polyurethane adhesive underneath the baseboard to fix any air gaps? Sweet tips! Will be replacing baseboards at some point.

[@rudbo]

Might seem like a daft question but if you scribe a board; will it not adjust the height of it so when it meets a board on the adjacent wall it will be lower?

[@deemdoubleu]

Shouldn't you ensure it is level or are you just eye-balling it?

[@illus1ve]

I know we like to make things ourselves - but I've never really seen the benefit of creating custom shims. I have two bags of plastic shims/control blocks or whatever your call them, in different thicknesses. Every bag of 50 (assorted sizes) costs me roughly $3 and lasts more or less until I use them. Is there something I'm missing?

[@user-zq6pj5jo8j]

I found a trick, but it takes a little effort. If your baseboard profile has a taller version you can scribe and cut down the taller version to fit your uneven baseboards. For example if your have the 3" baseboards standard like HP sells, they also sell a 5" version with the same profile, so you will have the material to cut it down and make it fill a dip in your flooring and the ends will still line up in the corners of your room with the other baseboards. Just dry fit and prime and paint before install and no one will tell. OR.. Add or glue on more material to your low spot then scribe and fit the same way.

[@samueljaramillo4221]

Great video. Great looking beard and stache .

[@jeffhildreth9244]

Timely... just now replacing baseboards in a basement bathroom following a water intrusion event. Thanks

[@philb9550]

I’m slightly confused. The center of the hump has almost no line marker. The pencil mark gets bigger on the ends. If you cut the trim along the pencil line… you’re making the trim smaller on the sides not larger. So wouldn’t the gap be bigger not smaller on the ends?

[@justbrowsing1968]

Great tip and well explained thank you

[@JonDoe-cg4mr]

Fix the hump In the floor. Idk Good video. I hope your floors don't all have 10 pitch on em 😅

[@johnduffy6546]

Sure beats the heck outta the way I was trying to McGiver it

[@castlecodersltd]

Some great tips, thank you. You also lost about 10 years after you took your cap off 🙂

[@MrErViLi]

What's wrong with just caulking the joints at the flour for the hump or dip? Seems faster than scribing and trimming. Yields the same visual result.

[@jt5747]

Any concern for getting the baseboard level before scribing?

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Parallel to the floor is what I always shoot for.

[@patrickday4206]

This is why they make carpenters pencils the shape they do. I get tired of other finish carpenters making comments about knowing someone isn't a finish carpenter because he shows up with a carpenters pencil

[@yourmasterrenovator86]

Thanks a lot. That was amazing and thorough 👌👏🙏

[@martinmartin6117]

Thanks for this knowledge

[@jbright97]

Razor scribe is all you need. 1/16th increments

[@MasterBateman]

I got the whole scribe thing perfect, but when the seasons changed(summer to winter), the whole thing gapped on it's own, so it was kind of a waste of time.

[@brianparkhurst1019]

.99 compass, like you used in school has worked for me for the last 25 years. Also, what kind of carpenter is using a round pencil?

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Nothing better than the mars lunagraph b pencil for finish carpentry.

[@brianparkhurst1019]

@@TheFunnyCarpenter please tell me that you at least sharpen it with a knife/ razor knife.

[@Aninjasfart]

Very cool video. Thanks man!!

[@jpdthe3rd]

I use a combination of these tricks and a razor scraper.. after that I'll just take the grinder to it

[@kirkdunn1379]

Rip it on table saw at 22-45° angle so when your sanding to your line you dont have to sand the thickness of the board......your just sanding a kerf (with belt sander) Done miles of this on hardwood and stain grade....been years now but thats how we did it.....trimming out all beach mansions in Laguna......wasnt the most fun thing to do Boss had a buisness card and would check our gaps with it......not most fun thing to do and really slow😂

[@lizardmechanic8785]

We like to bevel the baseboard to make the process easier.

[@mattmag3089]

I like the shim idea.

[@jepjona]

have you ever tried to use hand plane

[@TheFunnyCarpenter]

Definitely, I have a fairly small hand plane which isn’t super helpful for bigger jobs.