How to squeeze more power out of a klx110 for 5$

[@daniellebret7044]

Cool video dude. Loved your energy. Keep it up🤙🤙 hope my kids grow up to be like you, in the shed, figuring it all out. Thanks for sharing

[@Bill-x3s]

Two 8 Two, EXCELLENT video! Food for your mechanical minds: Using the 110's float bowl for clearance, removing an intake spacer and main jet slosh skirt, you can bolt a KLX140 carb right onto a 110. Use the nice 110 idle screw. The jetting will be ballpark; you will want to drill the headpipe reduction plate if sticking with stock exhaust or go aftermarket. Also, you can put KLX140 forks / front wheel on your 110L giving you better suspension, 17" front wheel and a disk brake! You replace the 140 lower triple clamp bearing with a Timken 30205 and they will bolt right on the 110. There will now be a gap at this bearing, I use a grip donut to fill the gap to keep dirt and water out. The 140 forks are much taller, you need about 3 inches of fork tube above the top clamp to level out the bike and a riser (2" minimum) to get the handlebars above them. I use a Rox riser, 7/8 to 1 1/8 with a fatbar. The 17" front tire can and will connect with the cylinder head when the forks bottom; I recommend the BBR skid plate so the tire hits it instead. All the 140 stuff is available on eBay. Also, KX85 /100 forks will bolt right on a KLX140L & G with a fat washer at the top clamp. Cannon Racecraft custom winds fork springs to get them stiff enough. If anyone, (Two 8 Two?) runs with the 110 / 140 carb or fork conversion, make a video!

[@Max_lush]

Holy shit after watching this I expected you to have like 20k subs, I don’t even have a 110 I just watched this for fun and this is more entertaining than those bigger creators. Keep posting man🤙

[@two8two282]

Thanks man I saw you followed my TikTok to

[@willkelley7747]

Take choke butterfly outta carb will allow a smooth airflow which increases throttle response

[@Bill-x3s]

Sorry for the "double tap" comment, it didn't seem like it was going to submit. Anyway, forgot to mention, as nice as the Mitas 90/100-12 tire is, that bad boy is expensive! At almost half the price you can run the Shinko Mobber 504 - 120/70-12 and the 505 - 130/70-12 scooter tire. The 505, IMO, has a better tread pattern because it is made for the rear of the scooter. You can run a 504 on the rear of your 110 but I feel it needs Knobby Knife work for dirt riding to open up the knob spacing.

[@Try2_23]

What jets are you running on your bike at what elevation

[@two8two282]

@@Try2_23 I’m about 3,200 in Texas and I actually didn’t Chang the jet

[@jamie55555]

great job

[@mosiehershberger9770]

Great video dude

[@clv5045]

What jets are running on your Klx with the exhaust and intake mod?

[@two8two282]

It really depends on what elevation you so I would go 1 or 2 sizes bigger from what you are supposed to have

[@IronJunkie_CK]

Hey doesn’t it need the back pressure from the exhaust?

[@two8two282]

Yea I thought of that but it dose have another little screen where the muffler and the pipe meet

[@joshmiedema13]

"she hates fun"😂

[@allmotorproductions4773]

The tube stays there the jet is the little screw in the bottom the one piece jets are pilot jets.

[@two8two282]

I’ll have to look

[@jasonstanley7197]

Anti fun? Anti catch grass on fire

[@DuckDuck-u3e]

Lee Jeffrey Moore Edward Taylor Donna

[@dannygZ0631]

Sounds like crap

[@Bill-x3s]

Two 8 Two, EXCELLENT video! Food for your mechanical minds: Using the 110's float bowl for clearance, removing an intake spacer and main jet slosh skirt, you can bolt a KLX140 carb right onto a 110. Use the nice 110 idle screw. The jetting will be ballpark; you will want to drill the headpipe reduction plate if sticking with stock exhaust or go aftermarket. Also, you can put KLX140 forks / front wheel on your 110L giving you better suspension, 17" front wheel and a disk brake! You replace the 140 lower triple clamp bearing with a Timken 30205 and they will bolt right on the 110. There will now be a gap at this bearing, I use a grip donut to fill the gap to keep dirt and water out. The 140 forks are much taller, you need about 3 inches of fork tube above the top clamp to level out the bike and a riser (2" minimum) to get the handlebars above them. I use a Rox riser, 7/8 to 1 1/8 with a fatbar. The 17" front tire can and will connect with the cylinder head when the forks bottom; I recommend the BBR skid plate so the tire hits it instead. All the 140 stuff is available on eBay. Also, KX85 /100 forks will bolt right on a KLX140L & G with a fat washer at the top clamp. Cannon Racecraft custom winds fork springs to get them stiff enough. If anyone, (Two 8 Two?) runs with the 110 / 140 carb or fork conversion, make a video!

[@two8two282]

I didn’t know you could switch so many parts from the 140 the the 110 thanks for letting me know