How to test and repair the charging system on a scooter

[@fleaholic]

this is the first and looks like the only one decent video on the entire youtube on how to test and repair scooters electrical. thank you so much for uploading it. it was very helpful!

[@brendanstorey7005]

Without doubt one of the best scooter videos I have seen on KZbin well done💯

[@LetsBeReal2eachother]

THIS IS THE BEST VIDEO ON KZbin THAT CORECTLY DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM! THANK YOU AND I ENCOURAGE YOU TO MAKE MORE VIDEOS! I AM VERY THANKFUL! PEOPLE SHOULD WATCH THIS AND SPARE US ALL THE WANTABE VIDEOS! THANKS AGAIN FOR NOT MAKING A CONFUSEING VIDEO!

[@waltman1508]

It doesn't get better that than this: (1).title,content/dialog matches tutorial (2) video is very informative and professional(3).I learned alot. about presentation,plus charging systems.THANKS!

[@LabCoatPaul]

Thank you! I'm glad it was helpful for you.

[@SLAYER-nm5zw]

​@@LabCoatPaulvery helpful

[@PawlH]

Wow what a great video! Highlighting the relevant parts of the wiring diagram while you’re testing them is super helpful.

[@oscarronquillo7794]

Paul .... my father always told that knowledge is the only thing that nobody can take away from you. Thank you for ur videos... subs and liked

[@simiandream5571]

great video. I have been tracking down problems on my scooter for the last couple weeks and have finally landed on electrical issues. I'm glad I found your video.

[@ahamadhassanali6290]

DEFINATELY the best explanation I have came across

[@lorenwoodson9164]

Beautifully produced and wonderfully clear tutorial on diagnosing the charging system!! Thanks!

[@johngibson1491]

Um why are the pros talking down about this guy's way of doing his own way to troubleshoot the 50cc scooter electric. Stop hating if you know more great I'm proud of you. But please folks stop the " I'm better " ao what. The guy is showing the correct way.yes you can so this another way but just watch and listen. He's a smart guy .😊😊

[@tdbuzz]

Thank you for taking the time to post this video. Very helpful for those of us who know how to pull a scooter apart, but don't know how to fix it. My 49cc 1988 Honda scooter thanks you too.

[@andregresse30]

One of the best videos I have seen in a long time. Good show.

[@TRaul7]

What an amazing tutorial. Straight to the point and everything clear 👏 🔝 thank you!

[@gulfsurfco]

Clear and concise descriptions and troubleshooting. Really good instructions. Thank you :) (and cool puller tip!)

[@htainlindwa80]

Bro is that the same for Piaggio mp3 400ie

[@Petterdepet]

I couldnt get my scooter started with the lights on, this will help!! Thanks a lot!!!

[@doctordapp]

Thank you, just needed the pin out for the regulator! I saw the schematic and the wire colors, now I can abuse that to create a wiring loom for my classic.

[@MayhemPhone]

This is so well done. Thank you!

[@MayhemPhone]

For ease, maybe check the regulator first? It seems much easier than pulling the stator

[@Conk102]

Awesome video! This was a big help for me when troubleshooting my scooter. Very much appreciate you taking the time to post this. Thank You!!

[@TheGhettofinger]

That was great. Thank you. That was very straight forward, to the point, video. AND with schematic! Awesome. People that make videos, watch this! This is how to make videos. No chit chat. Btw, your other videos are great too. I've learned alot from you. Very much appreciated.

[@Issa618]

Great video. I had been having a charging issue and this video helped me determine where the issue was. Although I thought the rectifier was the cause this video helped me determine one side of the stator was not sending enough voltage. You might be surprised to find out, as I was, when I pulled the fan off an exhaust gasket fell out. I was wondering why when I replaced the exhaust a few years ago that there wasn't a gasket with the original exhaust. Mystery solved.

[@tjthrillajaw]

Although not recommended, you can also use an impact wrench to tighten the flywheel nyut. *Proceeds to use an impact wrench to tighten the flywheel nyut* 😂 Great guide mate, thank you so much! Love the diagrams!

[@jamester000]

hey so can you potentially skip taking the whole stator off, and start by checking the stator/charging system the way shown in the video at 6:45? Because if you started there, you can see that the stator is good right? btw this is a really helpful video and quality, straight to the point and excellent instructions thank you

[@LabCoatPaul]

Yes. You can test the stator without removing it. I wanted to include as much information as possible, in case you needed to remove your stator.

[@Mrluialejo]

Extremely clear, detailed and useful video. Thanks for sharing

[@wicybertrucker]

First of all thank you very much. This video was awesome and exactly as the trouble shooting steps would go. I changed mine to battery, charging fuse, 12v red wire on the regulator, a/c wires, then I figure scince there is no power from a/c wires, mine is probably a bad stator.

[@andykordulewski1454]

Very direct and informative, detail and simply put

[@pickettbryan]

Dude, what a great video. Very well put together. Thank You!

[@jp6940]

Fantastic video!! Best I’ve seen man. Your time is much appreciated!!!!

[@eboneezerjones1512]

I am new to scooters,so please excuse my ignorance,but, given the amount of work involed,shouldnt you check fuses First,and stator Last? Otherwise GReat tut. Thanks for helping me learn

[@LabCoatPaul]

haha, yes, fuses first! Thanks for the comment. :)

[@nicksgaragenixx-fixx7911]

GREAT TUTORIAL AND TO THE POINT TEACHING PAUL!

[@paulcompme856]

Great Video, thanks you explaining and detailing the testing process - Helped me a lot - Thank you.

[@bankilover]

thanks dude even a hardhead person like me could learn how to repair the charging system in 9.39mins bigup

[@NorthSurvival]

Hello, I have a problem, I have a Peugeot Speedfight 1 100cc that recently seized up/heat seized. It was not tuned. I then changed the cylinder, piston etc. It now starts up right away, but after a while it dies all of a sudden (as if you had turned off the key) and then I can start it right up again, this usually happens when I go over 60 km/h or uphill. When I changed the cylinder etc, I also cleaned everything thoroughly, such as the carburettor, intake, new air filter, new fuel filter (there was no fuel filter before) new spark plug. I also removed the oil pump and put a metalplate with a gasket over the hole instead, I now mix the oil directly into the gasoline. Some other info that might be important. - When I drive over 60 km/h, it starts to make a noise from the variator (CVT), it´s sounds quite a lot. - When it died, I tried to start it again while it was rolling and then it started right away, but it made a noise from the variator, like something "let go" that had been seized up, like a rubber sound, maybe from the belt. - The variator belt touches the variator cover on the inside and has grinded a cut in the metal. - In the variator, where the weights are, the belt does not go down to the bottom of the wheel. - The clutch bell had turned blue from the heat. - The place where the connecting rod attaches to the crankshaft had turned blue from heat. - There was no fuel filter on it before. But i now saw there is an internal fuel filter in the gastank, can it affect the vacuum if you now have 2 fuel filters. Please help me. Regards Andree.

[@LabCoatPaul]

If the belt is riding too high, and not going all the way down, it might be too long. The excessive heat could be from the belt slipping. If you have the correct belt length, you might have a weak clutch drive spring (that's the bigger spring in the back) preventing the belt from having the right tension. I don't know if the dying is related to the CVT, but inspect all the components to make sure nothing is damaged or sticking. On some scooters, the CVT cover gasket is required to get the correct clearance. I usually throw away the gasket on my chinese scooters, but I've heard of people having problems with that.

[@NorthSurvival]

@@LabCoatPaul Hello, thanks for the respons. I took it for a testdrive today and after a while it stopped, so i removed the variator cover to check how it looked and the axle where the weights are that goes into the engine was stuck, so i turned it a bit and it let go, and after it was a bit hard to start again. What could this be? I checked the fuel line and the vacuum valve that goes into the gastank and they worked, if it was some bad bearings in the engine would that be enough to stop the engine while running? If it would be some bad bearings wouldn´t that just like vibrate a bit more, and not stop the engine all toghether. Could something in the engine have taken damage when it heatsized? If so what is the most likely to have taken damage.

[@NorthSurvival]

@@LabCoatPaul Hello again, today i opened the cylinder to check, and there was scratches in it, not deep, i could see them but not feel them. So that must have been why it was stuck after it stopped. Does this mean that the crank or bearings are bad? I don´t know what else it could be. Like i said before, i now use premixed fuel with 3% oil, and i have checked the vacuumtap that it worked, i have removed the extra fuelfilter, the carb is cleaned and has the right size jets. It has new airfilter and sparkplug. I saw now that the scratches are pretty wide, one is like in half the cylinder, almost like the pistonring itself has made the wide scratch, could i have stretched them to much when i installed the cylinder?

[@LabCoatPaul]

@@NorthSurvival yes, if your engine overheated and siezed up, it's likely the cylinder, piston, and maybe the bearings are damaged. You probably need to rebuild the engine.

[@NorthSurvival]

@@LabCoatPaul Hi, now after i opened it up again i saw that there was scratches in the cylinder and bigger/deeper once in the piston/rings. So that whole cylinderkit for 200$ is trash. I don´t know what to do, maybe the crank got damaged the first time it heatsized, so now it´s not inline. I checked the pistonrings and they had a small gap like they should so they can expand. And i checked the bearings like you said on the variatorside and i could not move it one mm, they where really firm. What do you think, ruled out a lot of things and the only thing left (i think) is that the crankshaft/crankshaft bearings has gotten damaged/out of line. And when i now opened the cylinder it was oil in it and on the piston and in the bottom of the crankcase so i am pretty sure that it get´s the oil it needs, so that can´t be why

[@dorismariana6951]

One last question if you can. You say check coutinunity between yellow and green , white and green, but another video I seen says there shouldn’t be between ground? I get nothing from green and yellow or green and white

[@crpth1]

One of the best videos I've seen on the subject. Thanks for sharing. Thumbs up ;-)

[@homero3024]

Hello !!! dude, you is right the stator is damaged changed it and go! thank you very much for your advice ...

[@TheStiver]

Awesome video, outlining the circuits on the diagram along with the video is extremely useful thank you

[@paulbudford]

Great diagnostic video. 👍

[@ryandeward6646]

Awesome video man. Thanks for taking the time to make it

[@snrankawat6819]

Sir, it's very nice & good explained

[@abdelhakguettaf4241]

Perfect demonstration, thanks

[@LabCoatPaul]

You are welcome!

[@gabrielpugliese6791]

Thank you buddy! Wonderful tutorial

[@thomasbarnes7032]

thank you for this video, i tested my stator and it all checked out fine, checked the wiring harness all fine but im only getting 2v ac on the white cable but getting 20v on the yellow, its a brand new stator could it be faulty?

[@thomasbarnes7032]

the lights are really dim on the scooter, and not getting a charge voltage from the ccu

[@Savage-lx5yj]

Excellent! Clear and concise!👍

[@repodan7226]

I got it going. the pick up sensor was to far away from the Flywheel. it's running great now. thx.

[@ebukaanthony7959]

Thanks for sharing I learnt a lot 👍

[@dougrobertson4017]

Excellent quality video in all respects!

[@oo0Spyder0oo]

If I have plenty of voltage coming to the battery which should be ruling out the regulator being at fault, but the headlight dims when using the indicators, what could that be? I've even changed the front and rear lights to led's to help reduce the current draw. The indicators are the only thing pulling the lights down when used. Thanks

[@francoislamoureux1119]

Hi, great video. I have a 2004 bws 50cc. When I do the ac test on the regulator, the white wire (charging) voltage increases with engine speed but when I test the yellow wire (lighting), the voltage increases with a little more engine speed but then drops to 11 or 10 volts the more the engine is sped up... the lighting coil seems to have a problem but we have to charge the battery every few days. I'm really confused.

[@tommyboston1453]

Excellent video. Wealth of info thank you very much. Useful af

[@Mikeb8134]

You did like hour or more work before you checked the fuses?

[@hankthomas3909]

@Paul shpakov I have a 2008 Kymco Xciting 500cc. It drains the battery. I have to keep getting it charged up. Then, it sometimes kicks the fuel pump on, and the fuel pump won't stop pumping gas. I'm trying to figure out the issue. Once I get it running, it runs fine. Some of the wires are burnt. Should I have them replaced? Other than that, it's a fine scooter.

[@LabCoatPaul]

Yes, replace the burnt wires! It sounds like you have a short circuit somewhere that causes the pump to stay on, and possibly burnt up those wires too. You need to figure out what caused that problem, and correct it.

[@hankthomas3909]

Thanks!

[@RaviGupta-zv3px]

Paul Shpakov, if a voltage regulator doesn't match stator which is 49cc, causes blowing the light off because it's too powerful by a regulator that's why a regulator doesn't not have DC, but it's the only AC. For example, a regulator has merely AC, but a stator has both AC/ DC which is not match that's why it blows the light off. Is that right? Thanks

[@LabCoatPaul]

+Ravi Gupta A stator can generate only AC. It has a permanent magnet that rotates around coils. Alternating current is induced into the coils. The regulator contains rectifier diodes that convert the AC to DC. If a regulator doesn't limit the voltage, or doesn't convert to DC, you can burn out light bulbs and other electronics in the scooter.

[@RaviGupta-zv3px]

Gotcha! However, last summer, I installed a new stator from ebay which was the top rate, I ordered it. The stator is brand named stator eton atv 90 rxl 90 viper 90 90cc rxl90 generator that's which i installed it. My scooter is brand named uptown 2005 that was made from china. It's actually 49cc, and brand name is QIANJIANG.... Regulator does not have to convert to DC, though. Whar do you think about that if it does not match that? Thanks, Paul Shpakov......

[@LabCoatPaul]

The regulator needs to match what was in the scooter. This is important for the CDI. The CDI controls the ignition, and there are AC and DC CDI units. If you have a DC CDI, you must also have a DC regulator. If you get the wrong regulator, the scooter might not run. I would say try it, and take some measurements with your voltmeter to make sure everything is working properly.

[@RaviGupta-zv3px]

+Paul Shpakov Thanks!

[@RaviGupta-zv3px]

+Paul Shpakov hi i ask you a few questions about a specific part of a voltage regulator. How do i order a specific voltage regulator which matches to the stator of eton atv 90 rxl 90 viper 90 90cc rxl 90 generator, but i have a current voltage regulator does not have DC? That's why i need to know a specific part of a regulator before i order it. Thanks Paul

[@davebranker1530]

so does that mean the yellow that is at 11.9 idle and 13.8 reving engine is good or bad. The scooter will not start again I can kick start it. Thank you again for your help.

[@johnburnett4786]

GY6 150 cc engine in a Roketa go kart. First of all thank you for your video it was very helpful. I would recommend letting people know you can purchase a flywheel puller for under ten dollars. I spent almost seven dollars on cheap 6 mm bolts which failed to pull the flywheel. That is another story. I do have a question: this kart has an eight pole stator. The original was wound slightly different than the replacement. Original had continuity between yellow / white and green wires. I have an inexpensive mulity meter, with that said, it readed zero ohms between all three wires. The ignition pole had about .5 ohms. Long story short; replacement stator out of the box had similar ohm readings on ignition pole. the charging poles (Coils) had continuity between white and yellow wires but no continuity between white, yellow and green. The green and red had continuity and .5 ohms. I installed new stator got engine running and all looked well .... battery voltage started at 12.5 or so and slowly started to increase at idle ... enrichment valve started working again .... headlights were working .... after about fifteen minutes of running main fuse blew..... I replace fuse and now have nothing coming out of the charging portion of the stator .... with the engine running I disconnected the stator and took a AC voltage reading coming from the stator ... white wire .1 AC V ... yellow wire .1 ACV .... I know I will be back into the stator again ... what concerns me ... is the meter reading on this new installed stator is the same they were right of the box before I installed it. Is there any way the flywheel has lost it's magnetism? This just does not make sense, if the charging poles (coils) are still intact and you spin magnets between them they should produce voltage. Any help would be appreciated.

[@darrylduge2554]

I have a question on the main headlights of my Wildfire R5 150cc scooter. My rectifier(regulator) was bad and I replaced that. I have all signal and running lights but not the headlights. I have all new bulbs and have checked ohm reading on magneto. Is there something else I'm missing? Seems strange all the other lights seem to be working fine. What would you think is my next step.

[@davebranker1530]

Thank you for your response so I unplugged the regulator and tested on Ac black to green and red to white it was 25.2 idle and 35.4 reving engine then I moved the red to yellow and tested again it was 11.9 idle and 13.9 with engine reve, does this mean anything is it ok or is that not good the white test is so much higher than the yellow not sure if that is normal. Thank you again for your response

[@LabCoatPaul]

The white and yellow wires are the AC output from the stator. your 25 to 35 VAC reading is good. Once that goes in to the regulator, it should convert it to 13 to 15V DC on the red wire. If you're getting good AC with the regulator unplugged, but the output is wrong when it's connected, you have a bad voltage regulator.

[@zoranmedic909]

So nicely explained, you are good man. Thanks!

[@homero3024]

instructive your video, thanks for the, I have a problem with the battery charge my scooter which to measure the stator ohms where you give 411ohms corresponding to the voltage of the coil, (my stator has 11 things ) My reading is zero. That I can do to correct and / or verify this because the battery is not taking charge you for your help.

[@LabCoatPaul]

When testing for continuity on each part of the stator, you're looking for a small number, between 0.5 and 2 ohms. The high voltage part will have more resistance. zero ohms means a short circuit. "0L" on the multimeter means no connection. If you get either one, you may need a new stator.

[@robertkillinger6801]

Paul Shpakov is their any other way to get fly wheel off

[@Frip36]

Question about possible bad battery. I took it out of 150cc scooter that had ingition and stall problems. Trickle charged it on kitchen counter. Got it from 11.74 amps to 12.25 amps through afternoon. Removed tricle charger for the night. Next morning battery dropped to 11.07 amps. Should it have dropped? (Kitchen was around 60 degrees). Thanks if you can help, or can direct me to a site that can.

[@LabCoatPaul]

Hello! A fully charged battery should be over 12.6 volts. If you've charged a battery overnight, and you're getting 11 volts, it's probably a bad battery.

[@Frip36]

@@LabCoatPaul Thank you.

[@DNZ1311]

Very good knowledge ✌️

[@jaspereerdekens3102]

Do you have to disassemble the stator to test it? Can't you do it when it's on the bike?

[@LabCoatPaul]

Yes, you can test it without taking it apart. I just wanted to show all the parts in the video.

[@jaspereerdekens3102]

@@LabCoatPaul ok, thank you!

[@nationalboosted2877]

Hello, my scooter wouldn't produce spark if I have my battery connected and I have a car battery on it, but now it won't spark at all I expect the wires from the CDI to be the problem, do u have a video of how to test the CDI wires?

[@alextrezvy6889]

What about the head light? With this regulator, is it powered by DC or by AC directly from the stator?

[@LabCoatPaul]

+Alex Trezvy On this particular scooter the headlight is connected directly to the stator and runs off AC. Some scooters use DC for the headlights. Unplug the headlight and connect a multimeter. I you get 12-16V on the DC setting, and almost nothing on AC, you have a DC headlight. If you get voltage in AC mode, then you have AC.

[@thelagmeister]

Paul. You are the man.

[@MicFighterE]

Paul shpakov should I have upgraded my regulator/rectifier if I upgraded my stator with more poles?

[@MusicMentality1904]

Hi! My headlight bulbs keep burning out along with my running lights. Brakes and signal lights work fine. They are dim if I install two head lights and brighter if I install one headlight. The lights brightens up when I rev the engine than burn out. I'm going to test the regulator using a multimeter tomorrow. What do you think my problems is?

[@LabCoatPaul]

It's probably that voltage regulator. Light bulbs burning out means your voltage is too high.

[@andreitarba7817]

Hi, i have a 2 phase alternator, what voltage regulator can i put in this?The alternator have 2 yellow wires and a Red one.

[@LabCoatPaul]

You'll need to match up the connector. Do a search for your stator on www.partsforscooters.com and find the matching regulator.

[@rolandovargas9317]

Thank you for the information Paul.I got a question,I got a velocity scooter with a 5 terminal regulator,I have some issues with the charging system.Only getting 13.00 volts reving the engine at 3/4 wide open throttle.I installed new stator and regulator.With regulator plugged in and testing input at yellow to green and pink to green I am only getting 8.0 ac volts.With regulator unplugged I'm getting 33 volts in yellow and 0 volts at pink.Same ac readings at stator connector(yellow and white).Is this telling me the new stator I just installed is defective?

[@LabCoatPaul]

It's possible! I had a horrible time recently trying to get a good stator for my 150cc scooter. I ordered one from eBay. It was the wrong one. I went to a local scooter store. The wiring didn't match up. They talked me into trying it. It didn't work. I ordered stator #3 from partsforscooters.com. It was the same as the scooter store one. None of them matched the GY6 wiring diagram (it's a generic diagram you can find online). 100% of the stators I bought were defective. I managed to re-wire one of the new ones, got about 13v out of it and called it good. The battery didn't die, so I chose not to care. Carefully compare each winding of your new scooter to the diagram to see if those Chinese kids put it together right.

[@rolandovargas9317]

Thanks for the feedback.I think I'm gonna do that (rewiring).Keep you posted.

[@krishnachaitanyakodali7942]

Do you know how much current does the scooter charging system put out after the rectifier into the battery?

[@dorismariana6951]

Hey Paul, ok so know when I go to start my scooter I hear clanking by the stater I was only hearing when first start but know I hear it start clinking when cutting off. But when running hear nothing. I do you think something is broken on the stator or the starter clutch flywheel

[@LabCoatPaul]

Take your transmission cover off and look inside.

[@reedddhhhh]

hi paul, is it okay if the regulator's green wire is not grounded? regarding to my existing wiring, my bike previous owner was just grounded the regulator through the regulator's body (regulator's screw hole). do i need to re-wire that?

[@bigpig41]

You shouldn't have continuity between ground and either of the AC power wires coming out of the stator. Please explain if I'm wrong ! Otherwise your power coming out would be shorted to ground. I'm talking about from 2:58 - 3:28 in the video.

[@LabCoatPaul]

Just look at the wiring diagram. Each coil is grounded on one side. The output voltage is relative to ground. You can also compare the diagram to other GY6 diagrams. Just do a google images search for GY6 wiring diagram.

[@bigpig41]

I agree with you after further thought. I should be able to measure the resistance of both the yellow or white coils to ground as in most stators one end of the inductor coil is attached to the base plate of the stator. I have here a stator that seems to have one big long heavy copper wire that forms both the white coils and yellow coil in series with no connection to the base plate......What in the world is this? Floating ground stator? So, in the normal 8 pole stator with one pole dedicated to the ignition power circuit and the other seven going to make up both the yellow wire coil and the white wires coils it seems that most of the time I see only one of the seven coils making up the power to the yellow wire and the other six in series making up the power to the white wire. We have two power lines of AC going into the voltage regulator. Seems like the white wire would supply higher voltage of AC to the regulator/rectifier than the yellow one since the yellow wire is only powered by one pole and it supposedly has a branch going off to supply the headlights with AC power before making its way to that regulator/rectifier. The yellow wire ALSO seems to have a branch going over to the carburetor heater mechanism that shuts your rich fuel choke off. With all this load on the yellow wire maybe I should be switching the white and yellow wires in the connector so the white wire can supply all this stuff the yellow wire seems to run . Say you have a PERFECTLY running scoot where all the electrical devices seem to run properly and to one's satisfaction(I realize this condition would only occur on the first night you brought your new Chinese scoot home LOL ); could you THEN remove the battery if you connected all the circuits you have connected to the red terminal of your battery together and included the red wire to the voltage regulator to that spade lug you created in your now empty battery box ???? Would this burn up a perfectly good voltage regulator if there were no source of storage capacity in the form of the battery at low engine speeds ? Appreciate anyone's input on any of this I've discussed.

[@edwardjames6070]

@@bigpig41 I just bought an 8 pole 'type 1' ? stator from ebay gy6store, and there is no continuity from stator center metal to white or yellow wires. I don't know if this is normal, but it seems that I am not the only person posting here about this condition. according to the seller, this stator should work on a tao tao 150, which is what I have.

[@dabbgk]

My stator is showing 26ac volts when the engine is not running. Does that mean the stator is bad?

[@Karim_Belgique]

What do i do if my high beemlight works, but my normal low beam and rear light (red) doesnt work?

[@grossteilfahrer]

This was very helpful

[@beecy2317]

Hi thk fr the gd expl n video when charging the battery i can drive the scooter the whole day but when leaving overnight it wont start unless i charge the battery again stator new cdi ignition coil n selenoid ok any idea thk

[@LabCoatPaul]

You may have a parasitic draw on the battery. That means something is taking power when the scooter is off. With the key out, disconnect ONE of the battery terminals, and connect an ammeter in between the battery and the wire to measure how much current is going through. You should have very close to 0 electricity being used when the scooter is off. If something is taking power, go through the scooter, disconnecting electrical components, one at a time, until it stops using power. Then you've found your problem.

[@dorismariana6951]

Hi if I disconnect the rectifier and check the volts of the yellow and white coming from the stator what should I get. I’m getting .50 . If I check from the main stator plug I’m getting 15 on idle

[@LabCoatPaul]

Make sure you have your voltmeter set to AC when testing yellow and white stator wires.

[@dorismariana6951]

@@LabCoatPaul I got it set to ac. If I test the plug coming straight from stator I get 15 volts but when I check the same wires were it plugs to the rectifier , with the rectifier unplugged the meter only reads .50 volts ac from the white and yellow and 12.40 from the red wire when rectifier plugged in but does not go higher with acceleration so I assume the rectifier is bad but why the other 2 wires so low?

[@LabCoatPaul]

@@dorismariana6951 You should test for continuity between the stator wiring and the connector at the rectifier. With the rectifier unplugged, put one voltmeter lead on the yellow wire at the rectifier, and the other lead on the yellow wire on the stator. Do the same for the white wire. If there is no continuity, you have a bad connector or a broken wire. Your 12.4 volts is probably just the battery voltage. Also make sure the green wire has continuity to ground.

[@dorismariana6951]

@@LabCoatPaul thanks for your help,so what reading will tell me if it’s bad continuity

[@keel23345]

Hello paul, i dont understand how there should be continuity between green to white and green to yellow, was looking at couple of other videos and they say no continuity so just wondering.....my battery is not charging....im not getting voltage (engine running) between green-white and green-yellow but i am getting voltage across yellow-white, is this correct? Thanks.

[@LabCoatPaul]

Check the wiring diagram. It's possible your scooter stator wires were hooked up in a weird way. One time I had a lot of trouble getting a charging system to work because all the new stators I bought were wired funny compared to what was in the scooter. Check your A/C voltage voltage at the voltage regulator, and check the DC output there too.

[@robertkillinger6801]

What if I don't have an impact wrench to remove flywheel not are their other options?

[@keepitonemill9405]

great video, sweet nd short... one question do you think that regulator would work for A 49cc mini quad?

[@kongenisinghetto2327]

Nigga u for real lom definitely not

[@dannhisbikes8013]

Thank you very much i learned a lot from your video!

[@anthonyzaratell5967]

I got a 2006 50cc schwinn mopped. head light won't work or rear light but turn signal works and brake light works what can I do or check ? I checked all the wiring and looks okay

[@LabCoatPaul]

A lot of Chinese scooters use AC output directly from the stator for the headlights, but use 12V DC for the turn signals. Your battery works, but it sounds like the stator doesn't have output, or it's not getting to the headlights. Check those yellow wires with your meter set to volts AC

[@anthonyzaratell5967]

@@LabCoatPaul thank you. But how the stator look like I trace the wires but I can't see where they go to.

[@worldcollections2839]

I need your help : my Scooter battery reads many numbers in a second and never stops at one number it reads 9v/10v /16v/ 13v all these crazy reads happens in less han one second and never stops ... so I thought it would be the regulator and I bought a new regulator the same shape I have , but it did not work , it explodes the Fuse and make wires gets hot if I tough the battery charger cable to the batery, then I had to reinstall the Old Regulator and it works and charge well but multi reading per second , the same reading with a new battery .. what do you think ? CDI box or Regulator ??? I have measured all the other electronic parts and they all works well

[@LabCoatPaul]

Are you testing at the battery, or on some other wire? it's possible your new regulator is bad. With these Chinese scooters, nothing is standard. The new part could look the same and be wired differently, or maybe it's just defective. It can make repairs very frustrating. One time, I tried to replace a stator. I tried 3 different stators and none of them worked. They were all wired different from what my scooter had. The jumping readings mean your voltage is changing, therefore a regulator or rectifier. A rectifier turns A/C into D/C, and it's inside the regulator on these scooters. I think your diagnosis is right, but it could be those parts throwing you for a loop. Try getting another regulator, from a different supplier.

[@worldcollections2839]

@@LabCoatPaul : yes I test at the battery also I have tested more than battery while the Scooter is Running , it is crazy ::: then you said that the regulator is bad even if it is new and same shape 6 pins but the Wires from inside could be in Different Colors : that what you mean ? have upi experienced it before ?

[@davebranker1530]

ok thanks I ordered one let you know if it fixes problem. Thank you for all your help

[@johndewitt9]

I got a 150cc scooter and none of the headlights are working or the tail light

[@johndewitt9]

I put a brand new stator on

[@guruji243]

This is applicable to all scooters even not chinese?

[@MATRPICE-ll3bc]

Hi, I checked the volts coming out directly from the stator plug and not revving the engine I get about 7 bolts from the yellow and I get about 10 from the white. Reved up i get about 30-35 from both. When I connect them and try the bolts from the rectifier I only get .50 volts . Some help please!!!

[@LabCoatPaul]

Make sure you're checking for volts AC on the stator wiring and volts DC coming out of the voltage regulator / rectifier.

[@MATRPICE-ll3bc]

@@LabCoatPaul if I disconnected the rectifier and hook up the meter to the yellow and green and the white in green should it still be set to dc or ac and what reading should I get. I thought that only the red should be dc

[@TheStefanM91]

I have 8 -9 volts to automatic choke ,has to be 12 volt there ?

[@24auhr]

Very nice vid ! very concise and helpfull , thankyou

[@lilman1796]

Thanks for the video Friend, great info on the charging system ,cleared up a problem my friend is having. Thanks so much for your time ☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆☆

[@vladimirjlouis]

Hi I have a LB 200-2 motorcycle whose battery is not holding charge. I had just changed the rectifier/voltage regulator and the result is the same. Do you know what could possibly be wrong? The motorbike had not been run for six years before I got it. Now, I have it running but the battery dies rapidly after letting idle for a few minutes once or twice a week.

[@yannkitson116]

Did you try changing the battery?

[@craigbasoco4886]

Does the v reg. Get hot?

[@TheInsignificant]

Hi Paul I am getting 11v between GY and 17v between GW on a brand new regulator rectifier on my honda activa. Is there something else i need to check. GR DC is 12.6 and battery is 12.6 on cold and 14.5v with engine on . Please help.

[@michaeldevitt5316]

Hi help which way does the stater go in

[@LabCoatPaul]

Check out this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHTMhIaPecujg68si=rQdp9wI2dYPd2bkV and pause it at 5:15

[@mikecuev820]

Hey bud let me ask you, I had a bad regulator because it was charging 15.1 volts. I had several new regulators but they were all 5 pin with an extra black wire. I know I shouldn't have but I cut the connector and hard wired everything to the new regulator except for the black wire because there was no black wire. Just a green red white and yellow. Surprisingly the voltage came down to 13 and my light worked which they didn't earlier with the bad regulator. What do I do with the black wire? I noticed my digital odometer and speedometer stopped working when I put the new regulator on. Maybe I should have connected the black wire with one of the other wires? Please help!

[@somno98]

hello , great video man. iam getting 8v as an output from the voltage regulator , so i changed it with a new one but it still same problem. The stator is giving good AC on yellow and white cables ( 18v , 24v). any ideas? and what is the 2 red wires that go to the CDI unit? what do they do? could it be problem with that? thanks

[@LabCoatPaul]

+somno98 The red wires to the CDI make the engine run. They are separate from the charging system. If the scooter runs, the wires that go to the CDI are good. One important test is check for AC from the yellow wire to green (ground), and white wire to green (ground). I recently worked on a scooter that had 24V from yellow-white, but did not have any DC output. I tried 3 regulators and 2 stators. After a lot of wasted time and swearing, I came to the conclusion that both replacement stators were defective. I have not been able to find an 8 pole stator recently that actually works, so if that is the problem you're having, I might suggest converting it to the 11-pole system. You would have to change the stator, flywheel magnet, and regulator. Maybe (just maybe) it might work. I don't have a lot of faith in this Chinese crap after my latest experience.

[@somno98]

+Paul Shpakov thank you very much for the response. I installed a brand new voltage regulator , it's a 4 pin regulator with yellow , white , red and ground wire. it's weird that I don't get over 8v although I disconnected the Headlights and such so the stator should not have any load

[@VV-yj1uz]

hi my scooter is not indicating and battery is not charging,horn is also very faint.Do you think it is the regulator? thanks

[@LabCoatPaul]

Start by re-charging your battery with a battery charger. Your problem could be a bad stator, a bad voltage regulator, or wiring problems. You may also have more than one problem. Use the procedure in the video to test your charging system.

[@AlexzanderPermanand-sz7dr]

This guy wow amazing I don't know what to say he did everything correctly maybe my regulator rectifier is bad on my moped because my battery will hold a charge and it will die after a certain period of time while the bike is on I've ran through so many batteries and replace them all and come to find out is probably my regulator rectifier that's bad cuz it's not pushing out enough output it has a lot of input not enough output

[@odysseus2843]

Isn't the position of the flywheel on its axis important for the ignition-pulse to the CDI? This should be explained in more detail.

[@scottp5803]

No need, it will only go on one way, the flywheel uses a woodruff key to line it up with the crank shaft.

[@edwardjames6070]

the base plate also has no adjustment. your timing could be wrong though.

[@sopranonaj]

hi, I have changed the regulator, stator and rotor for brand new and still cannot see increasing voltage when reving the engine. I dont know what else I should replace. Cannot use the my KYmco aglity rs 50 2010 with lights on, because battery is not charging. when I swith the light the voltage dropped to 12,1v and lower and not going up at all when reving the engine doesnt matter if lights on or off. help. Thanks

[@Cruc1alz]

Thank you for the video. You taught me something. :)