How To TIG Weld Aluminum 16Ga tube

[@whatsaguytodo]

You experts make it look so easy that it's tempting to go buy a TIG welder and give it a shot. Very well done sir, thanks

[@NSXTACY420]

I love that you put both your pedal and your settings in the corners, that's a lot of work. I'm subscribed.

[@chris_ennis2694]

Thank you for taking the time to do these videos. They have been super helpful for me!

[@MonkeyFabGarage]

Chris_ Ennis2 good to hear. I loved to teach when I was in the army and I lost my audience when I retired. So I enjoy it and it also help that people tend to drop by my web store if they took something away that helped. Simple.

[@RemedyTalon]

I think your "scratch" that you do is simply grounding out the tungsten which is why it's starts up easier. When I first started tig welding aluminum I was having all kinds of problems getting the arc started until someone told me about grounding out the electrode before you start. Essentially from what I understand is that static builds up when welding and can cause problems with the high frequency start so by touching the tungsten to the work piece before you begin you allow that static to dissipate.

[@Sketchyrooster]

Interesting first I've seen of this.. I will keep ot in mind.

[@stefanczechorskidds8435]

Really enjoy the settings, and the "pedal cam" and amp display! Cool! Keep teaching Mike!

[@youtubeisfullofspam7068]

You and Fifth Street fab have helped me tremendously with getting into Tigging Aluminum thanks for all your hard work man !

[@boostismagic]

Very Nice. Must feel good to be able to do that.

[@Backfire10]

Nice job wtih the foot pedal. What tig welder were you using in this video? thank you,

[@5thStreetFab]

Nice work bud! Perfect! And those shots 👌

[@jasond4752]

According to the display the machine never reaches 120 amps while welding but it looks like you're giving it full pedal. But maybe there's still some travel left on the pedal? Thanks for doing these videos, very helpful to us beginners.

[@ab_customz_llc]

Very nice and informative video, thank you!

[@limitlessbuilds]

Must be my cheap aluminum, but I’m able to weld it with good penetration at 40A. Anything more seems to burn through really quickly. Any suggestions? Just started aluminum welding though

[@hashemmatter5389]

Excellent video mate .. much appreciated

[@davecaresforyou7606]

Where ca I get the tig finger

[@adamaugust9190]

Great video thank you

[@krajus83]

Thanks for everything Mike!

[@SR20FTW]

I'm looking to buy a cheaper AC/DC Tig to learn on, how important would you say pulse is for basic IC pipe welding and the likes? Oil pan bungs, BOV flanges ect. I've been looking at the Eastwood Tig200, it seems very basic, but within my skill set. Any suggestions.

[@SR20FTW]

I'd add that I'll be doing a lot of steel pipe as well

[@MonkeyFabGarage]

JRock 636 pulse is like Bluetooth in your car. It’s nice but you can live without it. I personally would skip the Eastwood.

[@SR20FTW]

AHP? Everlast?

[@MonkeyFabGarage]

JRock 636 I’m really interested in trying out the new harbor freight tig machine. If it is near as good as the everlast it would be a good deal with that extended warranty. If you can’t make your money back in three years, you’re doing something wrong. However, I’ve been broke since, well forever 😂

[@SR20FTW]

LOL. I was eyeballing the Vulcan at the local HF a few days ago. Reviews seem reasonable TBH, but I am concerned with the Duty Cycle. I'm no expert with welders, but I think the DC was in the 25% range.

[@luissaucedo3160]

Im using a syncrowave 250 dx at 57amps just the penetration isnt consistand and im also welding 1” tubing how much would the settings change? Should i go higher?

[@MonkeyFabGarage]

Maybe more amps maybe slower. Watch the bead sink.

[@ccooper04]

I've noticed your scratch method on a few of your videos. I was wondering why you were doing it out of curiosity and you just explained. I can see once you're used to doing it with one material it just becomes muscle memory on others.

[@eltonwhite3648]

Now why did you keep pulling the filler rod out of the argon flow ?Was it because of the smaller cup ?

[@MonkeyFabGarage]

Elton White it makes no difference you can move aluminum a foot out of the gas follow each dab. Arron at 6061.com already covered it. So don’t worry about it.

[@LRGRivera]

When you got that flat spot where you dabbed filler more than normal i would have let the tube cool down a bit. Is there a reason why you scratch the material with your tungsten ? I had this issue when i had a poor ground on my table.

[@MonkeyFabGarage]

R_Fab_Machining it was not a flat spot. I was just dabbing fast and shallow to show a different technique and ripple pattern. I explain the scratching in the video. I know I’m long winded but might help some that don’t know. Thanks

[@frankietyndall9595]

Where are u located?

[@calebhurteau4230]

Hey man. So I watched ur vid on the PTFE fuel u sell on ur website and herd u say it was non conductive and so I've herd that fuel creates a electric charge I think when flowing.. really though how important is it to use the conductive type??? Thx.

[@MonkeyFabGarage]

Hum. I’ve heard that federal aviation says they must use conductive hose. I see hose company reps always say “at certain Viscosity’s at certain altitudes, some hydrocarbons create energy from friction” very specific language. I notice while they like people to extrapolate that their car will blow up, they never say that. I’m sure if there was an account of that happening, it would be posted everywhere. Bottom line is you’ll have to make the call.

[@calebhurteau4230]

@@MonkeyFabGarage thx

[@guitar595]

What size filler rod are you using?

[@MonkeyFabGarage]

I like 1/16. I feel like it helps to pull the heat out as you go.

[@chrisrenaud4141]

your running a invertig 221, why the ball on the tungsten? you just prefer it to run like the older machines? you wouldn't have to touch the aluminum like that if you ran a tapered tungsten instead of a ball

[@melgross]

Chris Renaud the tungsten balls up anyway. That’s why we often flatten the point by a small amount. It balls up less. But the ball isn’t a bad thing. It’s often preferred.

[@86boostdcapri]

Any reason you run 60hz rather than say 120hz or higher? I'm just learning aluminum and have been running about 120 on intercooler piping, curious now if I should try 60..

[@MonkeyFabGarage]

Makes little difference. Try everything and see what works best for you. Some times I change it up depending on what I’m doing.

[@BulliKid]

Where is the best place to buy metal piping for projects? Why fools would be best to cut the metals?

[@tptrsn]

Great video, thank you!

[@zenteno5p]

In the field you are not allowed to turn the pipe

[@tksperformance8789]

That's beauty of automotive fabrication, you can. Especially if for profit, you want the customer to pop the hood and show off perfection to his buddies. I know what you mean though, much different skill set welding upside down and at every contorted angle that makes the reach possible. Very hard at times and mostly a thankless job that goes unrecognized by those that don't know what their looking at. If that's you, hat's off

[@RemedyTalon]

well guess what, he is not in the field is he?

[@Ryan_1997]

👍

[@FlashTechEngineering]

You weren't feeding into the puddle enough filler Rod

[@MonkeyFabGarage]

FlashTechEngineering how do you determine that?

[@FlashTechEngineering]

Your bead width and stack height profile is flattened out, especially to match your penetration to much heat input, re watch your video, watch 6061 channel

[@MonkeyFabGarage]

FlashTechEngineering bead is convex on both sides. Thanks for you input

[@hashemmatter5389]

@@FlashTechEngineering Where is your video you goose ?

[@michelastegiano7442]

vos arrêts ne sont pas bons, et d'ailleurs vous avez des piqûres de ceux ci côté pénétration, lors qu'une certification ce que vous avez fait c'est direct à la poubelle. Il faut un peu anticiper l'arrêt en accélérant afin que remonte en pente douce votre pénétration et donc ne pas avoir de piqûre d'arrêt. Puis reprendre en réamorçant suffisamment en arrière.