How to "Top Off" Your Vehicle's A/C (With Self-Sealing Cans)

[@NutsandBoltsAuto]

Here's some stuff you may need: A/C Pro Self-Sealing Can Tap amzn.to/2MSsEWq A/C Pro Recharge Hose (For Self-Sealing Can) amzn.to/3sOw7Ve Yellow Jacket R22, 134A, 404A Gauges amzn.to/3e8Gfnx Taylor Instant Read Pocket Thermometer amzn.to/3sS8zyU Elitech Refrigerant Leak Detector amzn.to/3c78r7R A/C Pro Leak Detection Kit amzn.to/3e7JlIB FJC Oil and Dye Injector amzn.to/3e8GPSf

[@wbwright79]

this is quite possibly the most thorough instructional (which covers most of the small details which others omit) that i have ever watched. for the average garage mechanic (who only has the short hose/gauge), pay attention to every bit of this video.

[@NutsandBoltsAuto]

Glad it was helpful!

[@johnstone4020]

Great video! You explained how the A/C system works in a simple and easy to understand way for the DIYer.

[@NutsandBoltsAuto]

Thanks! 👍

[@Achilles3588]

Really thorough mate. Good job!

[@trackerrrr]

Just did this today with 12 oz can and a hose. Got my A/C outlet temp down to 36 degrees F which is damn cold!

[@HungNguyen-sb1yu]

When you screw down (clockwise) on the can, you open the valve and the freon will come out? When you unscrew it (counterclockwise), you stop the freon to come out?

[@voiceofreason891]

You can purge the line if you have the can connected (but not depressing self-sealing valve) and the low-side adapter connected to the car (if there is still any pressure in the system). Just unscrew the can a bit to use the car's pressure to purge the line. I would also not hold the can upside down very long because too much liquid with enter the system and slug the compressor. Best to rock it slowly, or if you have patience, just let it enter slowly with the can upright (enters as vapor, not liquid). As long as there is liquid in the can it will keep a constant pressure and should enter the system on the suction side.

[@wbwright79]

yep. purging the hose/gauge line is important. as you mention, all you need to do is unscrew the connected CAN from the hose a second to listen for the hiss, and the air will be gone.

[@garryrobinson364]

Thank you for a excellent diy video!! I am now a new subscriber

[@NutsandBoltsAuto]

Thanks! I really appreciate it. Im glad this helped :D

[@mistersecret88]

I don't know why you would pierce the csn without connecting it to low side first

[@trentvoc4229]

I used the single gauge short hose to test my static pressure and it came in what I beleive is low for 85 degrees, at 65 lbs. When I removed the hose from the port it was minor-leak wafing bubbles in the valve. Does this mean I have water in my system?

[@dwhallon21]

Great video, excellent details.

[@bbmd2200]

Hello. Does the valve need to be all the way out for the refrigerant to flow or all the way in? Thank you.

[@IntheBlood67]

Most Excellent!

[@mcamodell]

It's also important to note that all the cheap Self-Sealing Chinesium taps that are the right threading to fit Chinese hoses are old spike types that have had the spike ground off... making them now too short to actually open the Self-Sealing cans, buyer beware

[@mr_mnky]

Does that A/C Pro tap have a check valve? The cheap 'surebilt' brand tap I got at autozone doesn't have a check valve. When you need to swap cans, you end up having to open up the 'yellow' charging hose to the atmosphere, so you lose all of the refrigerant & get air in the line, forcing you to have to purge it again, which sucks. There's a ChrisFix vid on how to charge A/C, where he uses a tap with a check valve (for traditional puncture cans) that keeps the yellow hose+tap sealed off while he swaps cans. How would you do this with the self-sealing cans? All of the taps I've seen appear to use the same cheap 'faucet' design & don't have a check valve (I don't believe)

[@andyrosco]

An additional note... the Can taps have either a 1/2" Acme thread or a 1/4" flare male outlet. The manifold gage tube either has a 1/2" Acme thread or a 1/4" flare female fitting. But the 1/4" flare will not connect to the 1/2" Acme thread without a special brass fitting adapter. Usually the adapter is a separate purchase.

[@MarkSchuster-ym3iy]

Good video thanks

[@u.s.a.198]

Ty... great video..

[@Msleelee9487]

i wished i would have watched this before i used that stuff my a/c got cold for about 3 wks and it stop blowing cold and the fan i don't here it kicking in i know if i take it to the shop they will charge 3000 dollars one shop cleared my codes and charged 380 dollars and i took it back when the light came on and the guy said give it time it will go off so i took it out of town and they kept my jeep 2wks and charged me 1800 dollars that's why i started working on my car i do my own oil changes got to do one tomorrow but gotta figure out this a/c thing but not so much it's getting cooler but don't no it i have heat hmmm

[@jonathandavid3632]

Sometimes a trick to deal with those lights is to remove BOTH battery poles off over night..

[@mcamodell]

EPA made the sealing cans mandatory nationwide, you need a Self-Sealing Can Tap to use any new cans

[@mcamodell]

It's also important to note that all the cheap Chinesium taps are old spike types that have had the spike ground off... they are now too short to actually open the sealing cans, buyer beware

[@peteraustin767]

Thanks

[@soldiersvejk2053]

Thanks！

[@thelockpickinglebowski633]

I don't think the can is supposed to be turned upside down. That sends the contents out as a liquid.

[@arturomejia629]

Great

[@tribesascendvideos3186]

$5.99 for those cans? Wow. The good ole days

[@josephnovak5808]

Find the leaks should not have to add

[@randallmontejano7787]

F for the compressor

[@C0Y0TE-GTZ]

Belt go VROOOOOOOOM

[@davidsolloway9349]

like # 555.

[@henrymiecz8566]

Why do you people continue to live in Commifornia?