How to Water proof a Shed.

In this video I go through and tare out the bottom part of a shed that has rotten through due to rain water and flooding. I go back over with new OSB and waterproof the bottom 18". Please let me know what you think of this video!

[@davidh7636]

Thanks for video. If my shed, i would replace wood at the bottom with two rows of cinder block. It last forever.

[@Blackberry7399]

I thought about that too

[@TheModelmaker123]

I had several concerns about the final product but K&M was likely paid to just repair the damage not correct the cause. If that's that case it was a good effort. I've seen lots of these sheds original build on a slab. A real fix would have been to add 6 inch wide x 6 inch tall concrete sleeper/footing and place the new treated sill plate on top. For the size of this job that would only be a couple of sacks of ready mix using a wheelbarrow (and a few dowels). Then the TREATED plywood ending at least 3-4 inches above the concrete slab ending in a 1" x 2" notch in the concrete sleeper thus keeping all wood at least 3-4 inches above the slab. Lot of termites in LA so having that wood nearly touching the slab is like putting out desert for the critters.

[@beekeepermariadelgado6806]

I would have done the same, they did not solve the issue, more work for later

[@andreroy8141]

Exactly. This is a poor fix. They could have at least flashed the bottom of the seal plate with flashing folded around the out side say 3".

[@Luqman899]

I'm glad i didnt have to scroll far to find a comment that makes as much sense as this one did, im glad i found this video because i have a space between two weather-facing brick walls and i was trying to find a solution to framing a wall with a window, between them, your comment has given me some great insight into this.

[@stevelopez372]

Yes, the original problem was obvious. It lasted as long as it could, Lol. With the fix it will last a little bit longer. I suggest the owner start saving for the next repair job, oh well.

[@jasonexplains]

Still put untreated osb flush to the concrete slab. Will still wick moisture and rot just as fast. Could have gotten some zip sheathing and flashed the underside and the bottom 6" and never had an issue again

[@JT_70]

Do a Matt Risinger and put pressure treated plywood on the bottom 2’ of the wall instead of OSB.

[@cq608]

All I see here is a temporary fix to an ongoing problem because the building was not built right in the first place. Cannot have all that concrete pad on the outside walls as it will hold water no matter what you do. Either build the pad to the exact size of the shed and allow the siding to cover the bottom plate or use blocks as a starter. And what is with the studs? The least you could have done was put filler 2x4 under the area you cut out. I would have suggested to the client that they cut off the excess concrete on the outside walls to prevent this from happening in the very near future. All the caulking in the world won't stop water on OSB at ground level and your coating only covers the outside of the board, what about the bottom of the board where the water will penetrate with all that concrete as a water bowl.

[@TheDeltaFlight]

Hi - I have the same type of rot on my shed, although my concrete pad is the same size as my shed. Any advice on what I can do to prevent further rot when I replace the lower portions of plywood (luckily my studs haven't rotted yet)

[@juligrlee556]

Loved seeing the quick detailing and the idea of using an Aquatic Membrane.

[@billiewatkins4722]

I have been doing so much research trying to figure out how to go about doing this exact fix for the last 2 years and coming up short every time. This video popped up on recommendations tonight and was seriously a God send!!! Exactly what I needed!!! I feel confident going into my project! Thank you!

[@kmremodeling6923]

Thanks for the comment! Reach out if you have any questions.

[@robpittstop1797]

me either, buddy (3 years)

[@dlc2724]

What he did is worse then what the original contractor did

[@TheTacticalHaggis]

Yeah, I hope you didn't do this cause you're probably gonna need to go out and fix it again.

[@apocalypse165]

Thought it was great - live on farm in very rainy North Yorkshire Dales U.K. and you gave me ideas - many thanks to you - more shed builds/re builds please

[@Tuscani2005GT]

This was the first video I found that was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!

[@gregsettle9725]

Excellent video! I have this same type of repair to do on my garage and you did it just as I thought it should be done. Outstanding.

[@gillesbourbonnais4805]

We don't need the music, thank you from Québec Canada 👍😊

[@zenginellc]

@@vacantSuburbia That doesn't remove music 🤗

[@George-my4hi]

@vacantSuburbia You should be 1A audited.

[@mindimeade6595]

The boys said you did a great job. Kia looked like she was busy while you were working. 😂 We were having fun watching her on the time lapse.

[@oakcity9758]

Love the hat and the vid! Thanks for sharing your skills and knowledge with us.

[@Luqman899]

man, that music just hits you, like BAM!!

[@timewanderer7773]

Incredible work!!

[@loboboy5113]

Excellent video! Now I've got some ideas on my rotting shed...

[@stephanefraga2599]

This book is a comprehensive guide for anyone who wants to build a second unit on their property. kzbin.infoUgkxzaRUJNcbypw-fRBDbqqz43ULIa-1EGP- It showcases various types of houses, such as garage apartments, with photos, videos, and floor plans. The book provides the square footage and the dimensions of each house, as well as the option to order the plans or customize them according to your preferences. You can choose from a range of styles, from ultra modern to cottages and A frame lake houses. The book also offers suggestions for sheds, pool houses, and office studio buildings. This book is an ideal resource for the aspiring home designer.

[@tennesseetexan1957]

Why would you put the foundation wider than the footprint of the shed? This just lets the runoff puddle on the bottom framing & siding. Also I put generous overhangs on my sheds to get water away from base and window trims where water creeps in from rains. Doing that will allow your building to last for many years to come.

[@dkat1108]

Well said...funky stuff

[@DoctorRickSanchez]

​@@dkat1108_Cry_

[@stephenbrooks6174]

I live in Sheltered Housing and have to use a mobility scooter, the scooter sheds that were installed here have no damp course, and my scooter began to acquire mould, I had to remove t and bring it inside. I have sent this video to our housing manager and I hope it will find its way to the repairs team and they can fix the problem. Thanks very much from dear old Blighty.

[@criconinvestments7723]

Like seriously, almost everything I needed Thank you 🤩

[@dannycancino3614]

This is exactly what I needed. Thank you. And the video was well done. No fluff, just straight to the point. Well, there was a little bit of fluff, but it was absolutely necessary to see you sharing in my experience of going through terrible wood at Home Depot and Lowe’s and having to toss it aside. Haha!

[@kendalgee5808]

I think he was supposed to put a thin board across as a spacer / before he installed the sidings. That way there is an airgap if water to get behind the siding and the bld. paper. Because theres no spacer, it gets trapped there. I could be wrong.

[@kennya5165]

@@kendalgee5808 I don't know if that's necessary with the roof overhang and the interlocking siding panels. Looks like that rot came from lack of drainage. I wouldn't mind someone confirming.

[@kennya5165]

@@kendalgee5808 I stand corrected, they make a siding drainage mat just for that purpose.

[@jordanwhiteflower8125]

you are professional i love your work clean fast and beautiful

[@gypsybellefleur]

That's what we are doing five yrs ago hit bad by hurricane Irma. Just now doing the reroof of the rotted shed that sat for five years whilst we did hurricane clean up. It was baaad. For this chick once you have experienced a fully rotted shed you really want to study up on all things waterproofing! Everything sealed, especially since we live in Southwest Florida. Luckily most of the shed had cement blocks for a foundation underneath the beam for the wall so we were really good there and only a couple of the posts had brought it but we had to move the shed 2 ft further away from the house so that we could work on the house and the gutters etc the gutters are what caused all the rotting I think but this shed is going to be a lot more waterproof and I already have two giant rolls of weather guard that I'm going to use on the roof and possibly house wrap on the sides before I put on the final siding layer I'm excited about it it's been a long time coming that's why I'm watching your video

[@deenajones9019]

Excellent video! A similar problem exists with the siding of my shed. I scoured the internet looking for a fix for this problem. You nailed it!

[@MarkStLouis-ew5cu]

He hardly nailed it, guarantee that in 10 or 15 years he will have the same problem again. He cut a lot of corners, such as not totally removing the old studs, removing the window and wrapping his Tyvek, and most importantly lack of a gasket that sits between the concrete and bottom plate, which would have greatly improved its longevity. If he really thinks a bit of caulk along the bottom and painting the exterior 2 feet up will prevent water damage, he's sadly mistaken, water always will find a way in. Personally I would have used a rubber gasket under my bottom plate, the bottom plate would have been a trex 2x4 which is basically a hardend plastic 2x4 that can never rot, this would have guaranteed that moisture and water can't wisk its way up into the remaining wood work. Keep the sheeting about 5/8 of an inch off the concrete, wrap my Tyvek around the window opening, being sure to tape my windows nailing phalange prior to reinstalling the siding.

[@deenajones9019]

Your explanation is very thorough and points out deficiencies in this guy’s work to a layperson like myself. Your comments will certainly be taken into consideration if I ever find someone who can repair my own shed. Thank you!!!!

[@MarkStLouis-ew5cu]

@@deenajones9019 Glad it helped, I haven't done reinventions in years, mainly because too many people whom are undercutting and making it near impossible for an honest man to make a living. There are reasons my costs are higher then the next guy whom does not carry insurance, pay compensation, taxes and many other bills that go along with the business. Many out there don't have these expenses and can easily undercut others, but lack the knowledge or simply just don't care to do the job right. Best of luck with your repair.

[@eskilover]

They also didn’t flash the window properly. I would have run a butyl flashing tape along the base and then gone at least 9” up the walls with flashing tape. I would also have installed a metal L-flashing along the base behind the tyvek.

[@rea8755]

Wish we had Gentlemen Contactors like you all here in Florida. Blessings.

[@jimmiescallan7834]

This is why I stayed with work in Louisiana. Someones got to come back to fix these guys work. Smh.

[@callofgeorge]

well this video was exactly what i didn't want to see but needed for a reality check.. I'm next door in MS and just found the 2x's along my shops side window both rotted when i went to stake on some floating shelves.. cleared the wall of junk along the floor and found my OSB to also be rotted in some areas.. looks like my weekend will be fun..

[@GaryMcKinnonUFO]

Amazing job guys, i wish you were in the UK !

[@barbarianleatherandblades8686]

I like to double that bottom plate then put a piece of L shaped flashing on then use hardy for anything with ground contact. Then you have a 30 year solution.

[@moneyforfelix321]

What do you mean double the bottom plate?

[@littlepebbles]

@@moneyforfelix321 2 - 2x4's at the bottom instead of one

[@tompopowich8110]

@@littlepebbles exactly an extra plate and cut the studs to fit.

[@rosewoodsteel6656]

Good idea!

[@andrewpinson1268]

Close example of what I would try. I am still trying to figure out the L shaped flashing. My guess is to put a heavy gauge flashing coming down a few inches from the inside and then under the doubled up two X and up the outside a few inches. With the light duty flashing coming down the outside about 4 or five inches and over the HD flashing mentioned earlier. Plenty of right type of caulking underneath all flashing. I also live in LA. and it rains/floods on a regular basis.

[@coasttal123]

Some opportunities for the next install. First understand where the water is coming from and why the failure. To me, the water is coming in around the window and splash back coming up vertical from concrete and yard. It is coming upward between the siding pieces. Use marine grade plywood for the 1st 24". Use stainless nails in the Hilti. Reinstall the window with proper sealing methods. Consider putting a drainage mat over the Tyvek. I live in SC on the coast and have the same type weather. Never underestimate the damage of water that goes up hill, such as splash back and wind driven.

[@philshock3805]

Yep. Not to mention water will slide down a surface and wrap around 90º ... then it just wicks up the end.

[@scottlee9882]

You fixed the damage, but didn’t explain why that happened specially full OSB damage area so there is no guarantee it won’t happen again.

[@brentanderson4606]

My same thoughts, was expecting to see flashing installed or? Something to prevent this same thing from happening again!

[@royflood1480]

Great job!!

[@wllingtonsingh5080]

Great job,making it like new.Thats how work should be done.

[@honestauto3490]

Great video

[@drakanize]

Exactly what I needed ty

[@anglelajackson5006]

thank you and please more videos about sheds if you can. I want to start on mine. 😃

[@stoneyswolf]

This is exactly why I do my own repairs.

[@yokaa69]

Why?

[@clydedenby1436]

​@@yokaa69because this repair will not last.

[@Thewolfe112]

@@clydedenby1436why is that? Just curious of your observations

[@ozturkalper]

No barrier in between concrete and bottom plate, still direct connecting with concrete probly more I just skipped most of it,base supposed to be same size is the building so water can run down that's the biggest problem not related to man

[@EsaNuutinen]

Yeah. Was wondering why they didn't add barrier there when between concrete and wood. And I would maybe have even layer of cinder blocks between so that the wood would start bit higher. They added water proofing outside but if nothing else moisture gets up to the wood from concrete without barrier there.

[@BillMartinLCSW]

nice work!

[@charlesmckenzie7101]

A+ workmanship

[@louismaberry9683]

Great Job! Thank you.

[@hhazelhoff1363]

Some z flashing under the plywood would of been smart. And you should remove and cut the protruding concrete completely off. You fixed the rott but did not address what caused it to begin with. In five years they will have the same problem again

[@brucejohnson1264]

I was thinking the same thing. He put it back the same way it was, which pretty much ensures that the same thing will happen. Those little cuts in the concrete are not going to drain well enough to keep the sill dry. I would have replaced everything that rotted with pressure treated wood.

[@karlt2845]

Could of just finished with the water proofing in lieu of wrap

[@thomasarussellsr]

Why not paint the bottom framing with the water proofing paint? (Including the bottom of the plate before putting it down.) Also, why not block below the original studs? It would have made for a much stronger structure in the end. You kept saying you were replacing the studs, but all you did was sister up to the old ones, you only replaced the bottom plate and skirt OSB for the most part. Also, unless you tucked the "tyvek" under the bottom of the window's bottom tab, you just gave water a way in at the bottom of the window. All in all, a functional repair, for the short haul, but it could have been better. You could have cut the concrete pad off even with the building, and/or put gutters and down spouts on. If the area floods like you said in the video, the little drains you cut in the concrete, in the video, won't do much now will they?

[@MilosStevanovic1]

I was wondering the same thing about the water getting yet again underneath once the side wind starts blowing....

[@robertlund5312]

He used liquid nail under it it’s fine 😂

[@jale.n7949]

Exactly what i was thinking. Just pre paint the whole thing heavily, and try your best to encapsulate that pourous board. That chip board is like a sponge with water.

[@TheRainHarvester]

If you leave fungus spores (fruiting wood) it'll just spread to the sistered stud !

[@Lordfate3]

Still needs moisture to rot though. Spores are everwhere and there’s no such thing as dry rot.

[@jaykemm3472]

Good Work

[@kennethis100]

Great content bruh..thanks

[@leealbright2332]

Good job

[@thomasvincent9027]

I've always seen a rubber membrane on the bottom of the sill plate to concrete especially in real wet and rain areas

[@theJerkson]

a capillary break.

[@QJSlim]

Just pour a proper slab and overhang the building from the get-go and none of this nonsense happens. This is just a temporary fix, it will fail too, as the root of the problem was not addressed.

[@jahangheermoosa5685]

Maintenance works not easy job. That you did very well. 👍👍👍 good job brother

[@jaywholoveseveryone1721]

Doggy did a terrible job of supervising. He was supposed to sniff around as you worked. He did lay there for a while and do a couple of dirt back scratching like he was supposed to. But, I felt that he was pleased overall

[@Eener1000]

Simplest trick would have been to put some waterproof foil or or whatever under the wood before putting it on the concrete and then wrapping that foil upward. Best solution is to put a row or 2 or 3 of bricks down first and start framing on top of that or those long concrete bands used for making raised flower beds

[@TheRainHarvester]

Any pin holes /side ends would absorb water and the foil would keep ANY moisture in. Might rot FASTER.

[@ladyt2588]

😂 Dog goes in the shade and takes a nap 🤣😘

[@lorenzomedina3419]

Good Job.

[@BigmoRivera]

Great Job 😉👏🏽👏🏽🔨📐🪚📝

[@artistnexpress415]

frickin awesome !!

[@victoriacarroll7600]

Ended up here because we just built a diy shed and learned a lot, as well as we're good, as we built ours to have a lip so water can escape into the ground but boy thats a lot of work that should have been considered before all that rot happened. Kind of scary to think that's what was holding up the roof thou.

[@dustina6261]

This is pretty piss poor method of stopping water intrusion and will rot again in similar manner. I just did a similar shed inset around the bottom on a slab, did a sill flashing or “Z flash” that came up min 2in in trim coil, then house wrapped overtop so wall drainage goes overtop as well. Caulk and paint will fail if those are your primary methods alone for stopping water from coming back in…..gotta imagine after 9 months you’ve probably already had warranty calls on this one..

[@shannondunsworth3279]

Employees is one of the toughest aspects of self-employment, amirite? Good video.

[@agrafes6]

One point: If the baseplate is rotten from the bottom up, this surely is due to rising damp from the concrete base. Why didn’t you lay a DPM strip before putting down the baseplate? This would have stopped it from happening again. 💂‍♂️🇬🇧

[@brettm2460]

Thanks, Bos’n Mate!!

[@ticianotc]

Nice man! I have the same exact problem...

[@rawrevelations2002]

Thank You for making this video. I have some sheds that need a makeover and didn't know the first thing about any of this. No one wants small repair jobs apparently. I am becoming a pretty good handyman for a girl! The Bible says knowledge is as precious as pure gold and that people perish from the lack of it. At least my sheds won't perish now!

[@chuckaguillard8488]

Good Stuff !

[@downtownscoot]

Finally found the vid that was tackling I'm going to have to tackle. Except everytime they showed the work being done it was fast forwarded with music. Thats when I needed to hear someone say," we are doing this with this kind of wood or tool or whatever for this reason. Some of us are greener than others but have nowhere to go for help.

[@kmremodeling6923]

@downtownscoot thanks for watching the video. Please ask any questions you have and I will try and go into greater detail.

[@src4409]

This is a great resource for people that need to fix things and don't know where to start. However, there's not really any prevention here. This shouldn't be happening. Water is getting in and nothing was really done to keep that from happening. Also nothing was done to really seal that bottom plate. Others on here have pointed out some better options.

[@matsfreedom]

Flashing at the sill and treated plywood wall sheathing down there, too, adds more longevity to the structure. I had the same problem with a 40 year old building. Water, bugs, mice, mold, rott, all gone, forever.

[@rusticsurviving2606]

Seems like a 4 x 6 pressure treated board would have work best..6 inches up would have cut the rot out..and it is suitable for ground contact

[@dickhertz8103]

Awesome job guys!!!

[@peaceinwartimeable]

I'm fixing a similar problem only that it's a dwelling now when once it was a carriage house. The grade is too high or the slab is too low. My concrete guy is going to lower the cement by inches. I'm flashing the bottom plate and using hardie plank. Also I'm going use redguard on the bottom course because the rot just made so much work

[@peaceinwartimeable]

I forgot to add that I'm slathering on the green copper arsenals over the treated sill plate and the bottom of anything remotely within grade.

[@bigneilh]

I wonder why not use a layer of composite or PVC below the sill to insulate from the concrete and not have another rotting sill?

[@barrondeville509]

I also am from Louisian and have the same damn thing happening to my house, I've searched for hours to find this info. I have been contemplating using aqua defense on my new rebuild and now I am sold.

[@Morningdovecamp]

Excellent Work! Very interesting. I am not married to the music.

[@yadrak2354]

I enjoyed the video with the time lapse. Was fun watching the dog. Would have preferred more of an explanation as to what was being done and why it was being done. This did provide me with more insight into the process than I had before. An example of more explanation: When you were looking at the lumber in home depot. What exactly were you looking for? Why were you discarding so many pieces? Also when you were putting up the temporary supports how did you determine the proper sizes needed and how exactly do you shift the burden off of the current lumber holding up the weight. How do you know not to go too tall? Thanks again for your video and I also appreciate the comments below the video even if some are critical they may prove valuable and helpful for those like myself who are seeking to learn from those like yourself and selves who are more knowledgeable.

[@kenshores9900]

I love your honesty. Putting on siding does suck.

[@ScottieBMan]

Problem will be right back should have laid cinder block down with vapor barrier under, then flash and add gutters…

[@PapaKayOh]

What if you need to replace the concrete under the sill and the rest of the garage? In phases? Garage floor then temp wall then outer foundation and then outer wall?

[@johndesousa7379]

The issue here was how it was originally built. A little one or 2 foot block wall on top of the pad would've kept the wood high and dry but they did a nice job waterproofing and repairing.

[@boodybandit]

Have you ever used liquid flashing on the sill plate? Builders I know swear by it. It not only stops water but insects as well. If applied correctly it stops water from leeching up the OSB

[@bryansloesshillshomestead4523]

Thanks for giving this demonstration on how to repair and help with this issue. I have a couple out buildings with this issue. I should be able to repair myself now. New sub here.

[@philshock3805]

The siding and OSB on my shed is a good 4-6 inches from the ground and yet I get the same issue. The problem isn't the face of OSB gets wet, it's that rain water runs off the siding, wraps around the bottom and wicks up through the edge of the OSB. Painting the faces of the OSB does nothing to prevent that. A solution would seem to be painting the entire repair strip especially the bottom edge.

[@janesmith716]

Exactly, my shed is elevated and had the same problem, water wicking from the bottom of OSB.

[@user-cz8nf7em4i]

벽돌로 5인치 이상 토대를 쌓고, osb합판이 지표면과 4인치 이상 거리를 유지하도록 해보세요. 물론 벽돌 토대 외부의 방수처리도 필요하지요.

[@peterk4134]

I have a similar problem but the studs are also in the treated wood as the base plate; it’s to do with capillary action

[@elkedandridge8706]

Hello, I have a shed just like it. My yard holds water more now due to all the hurricanes in Louisiana. We had the shed done, the contractor raised it up 4 inches on blocks. Now after a really heavy rain, I noticed water coming in towards the back of the flooring in the shed…..😮. What can we do to water proof it? Evidently the contractor didn’t think of that.

[@mrcryptozoic817]

Cement is porous so treat it the same way you'd treat a foundation wall for a house. Waterproof ON TOP of the cement so moisture doesn't wick up into the sole plate. And with that much water present, I'd also wrap 3 sides (bottom and sides) of the sole plate leaving the top open so any moisture will evaporate.

[@tlak]

I would have stacked 2-3 pressure treated for the bottom plate with silicone between them. Would have put regular plywood for the sheet and bottom, holds up better. I would have put aluminum flashing and back and bottom sealed it.

[@TheSpatulaCity]

Probably need to grind down the edges of the slab to let the water to flow away. Grade the concrete. 3:56 Also, need to apply some sill sealer foam to the underside of the bottom plate to prevent wet concrete wicking moisture into the wood.

[@mattgeiger8247]

I think I'd replace the siding too, seeing as how I didn't do its job very well

[@gonzaljv73]

What did you use for a bottom plate sealer?

[@mitchrosario1529]

Any vids on what you’ve done with the inside

[@ErnestSolis-gg7xc]

What kind of sidings was that

[@vadimnesen8060]

The water proofing also keeps bugs out!

[@brentjohnson6654]

This is exactly what I need to do. I have a shed/pump house that has rotted OSB in the lower 18” of at least one wall. I am in process of removing that lovely vinyl siding so I can cut out the bad OSB. Can you tell me what you used for your aquatic membrane or seal? Also would it be wise to put something on the bottom edge of the OSB to prevent it from wicking up all that moisture in the future? Thanks and all the best from north Texas.

[@TKALA]

Why not add a concrete curb under the bottom plate?

[@doodooheadfart]

Why not use sill seal before installing a new bottom plate?

[@TheWalkOnCoach]

How well has this performed over time? Any water intrusion still?

[@kmremodeling6923]

So far so good.

[@TheWalkOnCoach]

@@kmremodeling6923 okay good to hear! I’m thinking about doing this for a 3D printed barracks. Theres no waterproofing membrane on the wall surface and the slab is level.

[@Slowrolling92]

I used to use a ram set then I found out about split drive fasters and they hold way better in my opinion

[@southerncomfort971]

i know this is going to be a tough question, but looking for a best guess, if that's ok. I am curious to know what kind of price this would be, if you can give it as labor and materials or separately ? I have a sill plate that is about 12 inches up but could be 24 feet long. It's on pour cement foundation with crawlspace. Of course this is a home and not a shed but the work would be equal. Appreciate your thoughts. Thanks

[@handprintlady]

What waterproofing stuff did you use on exterior bottom of osb board? Why wasn’t it in the description???

[@1percentSolutions23]

Good job… Question: Why didn’t you install sill sealer to the bottom plate ?

[@scott1lori282]

Great job. I wonder if there's a way to raise the flood plain on this. Maybe some water prove mason work or maybe pour concrete to get All woodwork up about 6 - 8 inches. Just seems like it'd be best to have any wood well above the worst rain.

[@SP-do5sm]

very nice job K&M.

[@mykofreder1682]

I would consider a foot of concrete board on the bottom, maybe some red guard.

[@Danny-sq1ym]

Since you had to remove sill and cut studs, a 6 inch concrete curb could have been poured for wall to sit on. That is how sheds and shops should be built. Great job though.