How to wire up power to an oval DC model railway / railroad layout

[@billsholl7904]

Another excellent video. Yes wiring can get confusing at times especially with points facing opposite ways and kickback sidings. I think this layout is one of the best you have done for a while as you have alit of workability in a small space. Kato trains are also super reliable and relatively cheap compared to the current extortionate prices that other manufacturers charge.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

@@billsholl7904 thanks, all good points you make, happy Christmas

[@turbocut]

Love your videos and your layouts, they give so much freedom to create and not be shackled to loads of rules and regulations. They are very encouraging to people like myself who are just starting out.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

@@turbocut thanks, that's what I'm aiming for. Happy Christmas

[@tonypetts6663]

My first layout, Christmas '72 was a double track terminus, leading into a passing loop station, on to the single track circuit with two additional sidings. Radius 1 and 2 curves, 8 points with huge plastic frogs in triang super4 track. One feed, never failed contact through the points was great and it all worked. Simple and reliable on a 6'by 3' board stored under the bed! Pull it out, wipe the track (dad used meths for that) stick the buildings on and off we went. No need for complications.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

@@tonypetts6663 spot on

[@DavidSheriff-f7o]

Brilliant - just what I was waiting for....I'm going ahead with battery run trains....As always straightforward and easy to follow.

[@LondonPredatorAngler]

I'm with you, DC all the way... on layout of this size, thats all thats needed

[@richardtarr2745]

And a very Merry Christmas and New Year to you, Doug and family. I've never bothered with DCC - part of the draw to model railways is the simplicity of DC. All you need is a little (sometimes a lot) of thought and it just works. Looking forward to seeing the little layout developing😀.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Thanks, happy Christmas to you and yours

[@philipclark8307]

Have a G-R-E-A-T Xmas and keep up the well appreciated work!

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Thanks, you too!

[@grahamsouthamn9798]

Again a great useful video always look forward to them. I have got great ideas, have a merry Christmas and a great New Year, from Aust

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Many thanks, Happy Christmas

[@evileyeball]

I actually Like your ideas for very small layouts... I could imagine building one the same size as the door of my office that could hang on the back of the door for storage when not in use and could have fold out legs for when in use.... you've got me thinking now. The only issue I would have is one of scale, see they don't make (as far as I know) any of the locos I would want to run in N and at that size I would probably want to do N. I want to run Big CPR Selkirk Steamers and even smaller CPR Hudsons like Empress but I don't see any of those made in N. My dream would be to have 2816, 2839, 2850, 2858, 2860, 5931, 5935 and then for a random one off CNR 6060

[@suzukibobbygg]

Lovin' all your n gauge video's, so much so that it's encouraged me to find my old rolling stock, picked up some kato track and a couple of loco's and I'm enjoying just playing with a simple loop, that just works.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

@@suzukibobbygg thanks, keeping it simple is usually best

[@LJRLowevilleJunctionRailroad]

Interesting what you can do with small layouts and just DC! Merry Christmas & Happy New Year

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Thanks, you too!

[@stevenjones19-m8i]

What a interesting video.bit by bit the layout is building up.the small corner controller is a ideal spot and dont interfere with the tracks.Happy Xmas 🎄 and see you in the next video.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

@@stevenjones19-m8i thanks, Happy Christmas

[@andygorman858]

Great vid and full of useful information! My ‘tuning fork’ layout only uses one set of wires and the next ‘proper’ Inglenook will only require one set of wires as well. The only thing I need to work out is how to make my own point switches (I have Kato but the controller and point switches are quite bulky). Once again great vid and wishing you and your family a Merry Christmas from New Zealand!

[@BudgetModelRailways]

We use our own controller and just wire DPTD switches onto the kato points. Cheaper and smaller

[@andygorman858]

@ well that would work (slaps forehead with sudden realisation…)! A friend gave me a PWM unit a while ago but I was struggling with how to wire the point switches. Does it need to be a DPDT or would an SPDT work just as well?

[@StevenJones-vd6mh]

Good video with a clear explanation. I am also an advocate of the KIS principle ( Keep It Simple. ). Have a lovely Christmas.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Thanks, it's the best wsy

[@stevelees61]

Great video. And merry Christmas to you and your family. 🎅🎄

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Thanks, happy Christmas

[@stevenpitts6665]

Thanks for an excellent video. May I wish you and your family a very merry Christmas and joyful new year.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Thanks, and all the seasons best to you and yours

[@TeenFlyer95]

Thanks for all the videos this year. Happy Christmas and I look forward to the Sompting show in May. 🎄🎅🏻

[@BudgetModelRailways]

@@TeenFlyer95 look forward to seeing you at Sompting, Happy Christmas

[@ageingprovocateur5247]

Merry Christmas to you and thanks for all the videos.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

@@ageingprovocateur5247 thank you for the support, Happy Christmas

[@BeastyBill88]

For my shunting layout (that I took inspiration from your ideal one) that only uses 3 sets of wires, 1 for the fiddle yard board (as it's removable and isolated), 1 set at the station throat and one set in the kickback siding, works perfectly well. Like you said though you need to make sure points are set correctly otherwise you get power issues. I would have thought for a longer/bigger layout you'd definitely a couple of droppers at certain points just to help keep the power going along but not like every track section like DCC.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

It's really not needed, it's a hang over from DC. We have run quite large 9ft by 9ft OO ovals with no power drop from just 2 wires

[@sanclewphotographic]

Another great Video, what size board did you use for the larger layout please only I would like to copy your exact design to use in conjunction with my own existing layout, wishing you all a very merry christmas and a prosperous new year, Colin.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Thanks, I will check but I do mention it in the earlier videos on it if that helps. Happy Christmas

[@andyhames517]

hi mate could you tell me the sizes of these two layout there amazing ,you normally say the sizes sorry if I've missed it have a great Christmas

[@BudgetModelRailways]

@andyhames517 the smaller one is 56 X 29 cm, the bigger one is 57cm by 87cm. There are quite a few videos on the smaller one if that helps. Happy Christmas

[@paulrf4484]

Your videos are inspiring. Is there any simple way of letting a train set arrive at a buffer, pause, and reverse. Perhaps this could use microswitches or light sensors.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

You can get what is called a shuttle unit

[@obvious2886]

Some track, like micro engineering track, does not transfer power across the points so you have to add feeder wires on the siding.

[@RobinsBookClub]

Happy Christmas, another great and helpful video. Thanks :)

[@BudgetModelRailways]

@@RobinsBookClub thanks, happy Christmas

[@obvious2886]

Having two loops with an insulator is great for o scale if you can have two sets of points. If the locomotives are going the same speed at the same voltage you can time it where you swap tracks

[@BruceJohnston-gi5wx]

Nice one Mike cheers from your kiwi mate merry Xmas uk

[@BudgetModelRailways]

@@BruceJohnston-gi5wx thanks, merry Christmas to kiwi land

[@obvious2886]

Atlas track seems to work the same as the peco track you are using

[@OscarOSullivan]

DCC if you short it, the motive power gets burnt out. Non electro frog DC is brilliant.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Absolutely

[@canuckprogressive.3435]

I haven't found that the insulfrog point power switching is all that reliable myself. I, on DCC but I can't see that making much difference on a siding.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Peco points are totally reliable in my experience, Hornby less so. It's why I use Peco

[@canuckprogressive.3435]

@BudgetModelRailways I'm just one of those guys where stuff doesn't seem to work without a struggle if at all I guess.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

@canuckprogressive.3435 lol I. Know the feeling

[@stevem9754]

Could you make a video of the wiring for a two connected loops DC layout? I have two loops connected by a pair of points in usual "Z". There are also a couple of sidings in the inner loop. But even with only one controller attached I get short circuit cut outs. I don't have any switch between the two loops. I assumed that the Hornby insulating points would prevent any short circuits. I get the same shorts whether or not the second controller is attached to the inner loop.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Yes you have to isolate the two loops using plastic isolating fishplates, it's really not worth the hassle in my view, just keep the two loops seperate

[@psstwhatanime]

What controller are you using on the first layout? Or is it a custom job?

[@BudgetModelRailways]

It's a custom job, details of the components are on our website if that helps

[@psstwhatanime]

@BudgetModelRailways Ahh I found it, thanks you

[@southjersey10]

Feliz Navidad to you …. Thanks for a great year of wonderful videos.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

@southjersey10 thanks, happy Christmas

[@111greatbear3]

I've since gone back to track from Hornby dublo and Tri-ang Hornby so i can make layouts without complexity

[@eurovnik]

Agreed that there's a massive amount of wiring overkill going on. My big layout is an outdoor G scale DCC one with multiple siding branches. I have zero space in the house but plenty outdoors. The layout operates off two wires from a single controller and the track is all connected with fishplates all year round and in all weathers. I get a lot of flak for this "inferior setup" from the G scale "experts" but it works fine. Maybe I keep the rail head cleaner than they do... I get that DCC isn't your cup of tea, but please don't blame DCC for ill-informed people's idiocy about wiring. It's not a DC vs DCC problem. More a problem of wealthy, ageing, snobbish rivet counters wanting to sneer at other people's perfectly functional simple solutions. Because they can't bear facing the reality that their over-engineered wiring, replete with droppers every 10cm is overkill.

[@BudgetModelRailways]

Totally agree, it's the people not the tech. If it's not complex and costly it gets dissed

[@NTSCuser]

Why we don't have self-powered locomotives in this day and age beats me?

[@BudgetModelRailways]

I fully agree, batteries and RC should have been the way to go