How to Wire Ford Mini Starter using Original Solenoid

[@Drippppppppp]

Thank you man. Subscribed was looking at mini starter and was a little confused straight to the point with the actual solenoid . Much appreciated.

[@RiggsGarage]

Glad to help, good luck with the project!

[@JrSamples-g4v]

In the 70s-early 80s Ford used both solenoids on the 460. As in 2 solenoids on one car/truck and used a thin metal strip as a jumper from the large post on the solenoid on the starter to the smaller post on the solenoid on the starter. Seems like that would be the easiest way on most applications of upgrading to this starter would be to just use a jumper wire on the solenoid on the starter like Ford had the metal jumper strip and you would not have to rewire anything.

[@clems6989]

It was called a movable pole shoe. Current through the stator pulled the shoe down and then mechanical linkage pulled the starter drive gear into the flywheel teeth. It worked beautifully!

[@AlbertoMontemayor-w4s]

Thanks Buddy This Was Most Helpful My Starter Would stay Stuck Thanks Again Looking Forward to More of Your Videos

[@Warrior_Resisting_Colonialism]

Thanks! Exactly as I thought but I wanted to be sure. Appreciate it!

[@RiggsGarage]

Glad to hear!

[@DudesWithWrenches]

Great info man keep up the great content

[@RiggsGarage]

Thank you!

[@davidgoodwin658]

Thanks for the information. I was going to buy a Jegs Hitachi mini starter for my ford.

[@RiggsGarage]

Good plan. Thank you

[@tomuss2082]

I would have liked it if you showed where you connected it jumper wire on the mini starter.

[@RiggsGarage]

There are only two connections on the starter. One is huge, that's for the giant power wire. One is tiny, that's for the tiny trigger wire. Hope this helps

[@tomuss2082]

@@RiggsGarage Thanks for the quick reply, that's what I needed.

[@MikeVieira]

Awesome video!! Thanks!

[@RiggsGarage]

Thanks for watching!

[@arthurboyd522]

Thanks for the video. Just to be clear the constant hot/battery cable is to the top post on the starter, right?

[@RiggsGarage]

You're welcome. Correct, top post

[@jevontecole7836]

@1:38…I only have One screw on the car solenoid on each side, would that make alternator wire hot ? The one going to battery?

[@RockyTopSplash]

What do you do with "field" wire from alternator?? And the "field" wire "F" terminal on voltage regulator???

[@scottclark2413]

What are the two smaller posts (pointing towards the engine) used for? Are they 12v only when the starter is engaged, or are they key on 12v?

[@Onlyf0rds]

Great video. Very helpful

[@RiggsGarage]

Thanks! Happy to help

[@thomasoravec528]

which mini starter did you use for 351m? I have a 78 f150 needs a new starter. many thanks!!

[@RiggsGarage]

I believe I ordered it for a 93 Mustang with a 302. Either that or a '96 or newer 302 explorer. You might have a look at the part numbers. Both of those are many starters that bolt up to small block Fords

[@dunndada1631]

Is there anyway you could do an entire video of the wiring I have an f250 that needs to be rewired

[@RiggsGarage]

I don't have any other projects to wire unfortunately. Thanks for watching

[@Mrlapej]

Is there a mini starter that will fit a 300 6 cylinder?

[@RiggsGarage]

Pretty sure it's the same as the small block Ford

[@Mrlapej]

@@RiggsGarage I’m going to try the small block 302 mini starter.. thank you..

[@BigKuda1776]

I have the regular starter but it cranks in the on position. I have the wires on the correct s and I post any ideas?

[@RiggsGarage]

Solenoid could be stuck? Might hit it and disconnect to test it

[@elimcinnes706]

Thanks mate for some reason as soon as I put my key line in the post the car starts with no key.

[@RiggsGarage]

Weird, did you figure it out??

[@elimcinnes706]

@@RiggsGarage gonna take a look tonight I think I may have put the ignition key line on the wrong side

[@RiggsGarage]

@@elimcinnes706 that sounds like it

[@elimcinnes706]

So what had happened, was I dropped off the little cork gasket spacer on the battery side post, didn’t notice it at night. so when I tightened all the nuts down it was touching the body of the relay making everything hot

[@Tbales0950]

Why can’t you just leave both wires on starter side?

[@RiggsGarage]

Go for it

[@Tbales0950]

@@RiggsGarage just seems like having live power to the starter all the time isn’t the best idea incase something happens are burns your car down.

[@RiggsGarage]

@@Tbales0950 I see what you're saying. I need to go back and look, I believe Ford left constant hot to them as well. I believe that's a pretty common practice. But I'll go back and look, it's been a while. Hope your project goes well!

[@Tbales0950]

@@RiggsGarage I figured it out. Starter won’t disengage if you wire the way I was thinking. So I’m just gonna throw a mega fuse on the power cable to keep if safe from grounding

[@RiggsGarage]

@@Tbales0950 ah, I figured there was a definite reason the factory did it that way, but I'm not an electrician and don't know why. I think we now know. Thanks for commenting

[@luismendoza2522]

Hey man..why every time I crank the car the selenoid starts smoking on the positive side 65 mustang 302...thanks

[@RiggsGarage]

Bad connection can cause heat, I'd check connections before and after for real voltage drop. Also could be a faulty solenoid, but I'd check the connections first

[@RiggsGarage]

Also could be a short somewhere!

[@marsiasc2280]

Overhead view did not help the illustrations

[@anthonyfrank5430]

Didn't work

[@RiggsGarage]

Something is wrong then?

[@ensomantele9891]

No good,something wrong,..

[@RiggsGarage]

How so? Been driving it for a year +