How to wire the oil furnace cad cell relay

[@jasonhudock3225]

Thank you for the video. If you are going from a R4184D1027 to R8184G4009, after you finish wiring the parts from this video. IF YOU HAVE AN OIL BURNER, you need to put a small jumper between the two T's.

[@douglaswatson3809]

This is quite similar to my old oil furnace in the shop, which quit today. After some troubleshooting, determined it was the transformer, which I had tested to confirm. Then hooking up the "new" (surplus), one, I couldn't remember the wiring! Your video did the trick. Thanks for posting it.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Welcome GFM

[@barelyknittogether]

I LOVE the videos you do!! You've saved me over and over as I try to keep my 70 year old oil boiler furnace limping along. I happen to have this exact relay so you made it easy. Thank you so much for doing this!!

[@grayfurnaceman]

Welcome GFM

[@tankfixer59]

Thank you for all your videos. They have helped me work through some issues with my old furnace and it's back and running now.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Welcome GFM

[@noahscott7272]

Great! Straight forward videos that just get to the point and tell you what you need to know and what you MIGHT need to know without rambling for 20 minutes...you said what the ramblers say and you said what they should say in their 20 minutes but forgot! Thanks man. Great informative video, all bases covered right off the bat. Soooo hard to find these days!

[@grayfurnaceman]

Welcome GFM

[@johnnieholt1188]

Thank you so much for sharing this. I went to clean up the wiring on my oil burner, and thanks to lousy wire nut connections, wires came apart when I opened the box, preventing me from figuring out how to reconnect everything. Thanks to this video, I was able to reconnect everything (blower motor, oil valve, igniter and Cad Cell) without losing any magic smoke. Things are working hunky dory again.

[@josephcox3607]

Thks the wiring explanation corrected the initial install. The schematic on the relay wasn't detailed enough.The unit runs fine now.

[@pollockhlbly]

i talked to you last week thru ebay from southeast ohio. this video saved my a..! i had taken apart the relay box to clean and strip all the wire ends, i should have noted how everything was wired together, but i followed your video, and what would you know it all worked!!! thanks very much, i owe you

[@grayfurnaceman]

Merry Christmas GFM

[@eb0800]

Those new controllers the way you described them just sound like "We improved this so that now you can't work on it and it will break faster too!" 😂

[@philipfm]

Had to replace mine last week. I could reset the relay but it would shut off after the boiler shut off. I used my phone camera before disconnecting any wires. Was surprised Lowes had about 10 in stock. Thanks for the video grayfurnaceman. PS would love to see a video on replacing the burner motor.

[@jughead63065]

I just got mine going with the help of this video and grayfurnace man. THANK YOU!!!!

[@grayfurnaceman]

Merry Christmas GFM

[@mutleybird]

@@grayfurnaceman Hi, I have the same Beckett burner unit as in many of your videos. My relay is very similar, but is the ICM1503. The oil guy replaced it about a year ago, and intermittently, if the unit locked out, pressing the button would not turn the light off, so nothing would happen. After a few tries, the light would go off and the burner would start up again and run fine. One time, I needed to change the filter, so it locked out, or, another I ran too low on oil. I solved those issues - but I've never had an issue with other relays where the light doesn't go out no matter how long or short I hold the button. I tried disconnecting the F-F wires to bypass the cad cell, and still the light remained on no matter what. NOW, I just can't get that light to go out, and re-start the burner. Is this a common issue with these, where the unit just needs to be replaced? Also, if I do replace it - does shutting off the main switch (which also turns that yellow light off at the relay), allow me to replace and wire in a new usit without worrying about getting a shock? Thanks, - Larry

[@kennethdillon1990]

don't see these in the fly over states , but just love learning more with the informative videos.... last one i seen was in school years back, got plenty of boiler's in some areas though... keep up the great video's

[@grayfurnaceman]

Thanks GFM

[@jeffreydunlap6382]

Orange wire slipped out when I was changing the motor. Big help Being able to see where it went. Thank you sir!

[@OutBoardTink62]

What happens when both wires coming into the junction box from the line in are black doesnt matter right?Thanks for your video it got me up and running without calling someone swapping out a transformer. Im very good fixing oil burners but not with wiring, LOL Glenn

[@johncomas3846]

Thanks for the video,,,,,You helped me repair my boiler. Just one oversight I wired it back wrong.Thanks again

[@grayfurnaceman]

Welcome GFM

[@HYDROGENTEK]

Thank you! I noticed another video you made on the fan limit switch, I fired up the furnace the inconsistent rotation of the wheel. It rotate to kick the fan on the it does not stop the burner when it reach the max temp, it keeps running.

[@grayfurnaceman]

The inconsistent rotation is normal. Most of these switches are set for limit dropout at 200F. Does the dial go that high? GFM

[@golfsales492]

Great video. Thank you very much. Someone should mention the jumper for the thermostat

[@TomRommelmann]

Just what I was looking for. Thanks so much!

[@grayfurnaceman]

Welcome GFM

[@BobbySheetssr]

Thanks helped me out alot

[@weaslethorp]

Very informative thank you!

[@SamWidrick]

This helped me a lot! Thanks!

[@HandsONreviews4u]

Great video I have seen other videos with a white wire on both T connectors it was just a wire connected from one T to the next and it was white. Can you tell me what that is for and do I need to add that to my relay because it didn’t come with one

[@grayfurnaceman]

The white wire is a jumper. It is used when the burner is controlled by a relay which is, in turn, controlled by the thermostat. If yours is controlled by the thermostat, you do not need the jumper. GFM

[@HandsONreviews4u]

@@grayfurnaceman Yeah mine is controlled by a thermostat 👊😉thanks for teaching me something important. I cannot tell you how valuable your channel is

[@P-S-Kustoms]

Thanks helped me out in a bind fast ....

[@grayfurnaceman]

Merry Christmas GFM

[@geojor]

very practical technical information..thank you...

[@RobHVAC]

Nice video Gray.

[@kawa1978]

I burned out my R81841002 can I replace with a R8184G4009 till I get a new one . There are more wires than positions so don’t know if I need all of them.

[@twitter.comfixwifi992]

On that Rodgers 668-430 E8 the 3rd terminal for the 3rd wire could possibly be used for a C wire which makes me wonder if this cad cell model will operate a smart thermostat?

[@grayfurnaceman]

No. You will need a separate 24 volt source and a isolation relay to avoid burning up the Cad cell relay. GFM

[@douglaskersh7032]

I have a 1969 Airtemp 80,000 BTU oil furnace made by Chrysler. It has a stack switch relay, it is located on the furnace, not the short flue pipe. I would like to replace it with a cad cell relay and cad cell. More efficient than a stack switch relay How do you cut the slot for the cad cell to see the flame in the burner. Could you make a video of this evolution? I think other people would find it useful. I know how the oil burner comes apart, and the operation of each component from watching your oil burner videos. I also noticed that cooling works fine, heating works fine, but when I turn on the inside fan on, the outside unit comes on. The system works well separately, but the yellow and green wire is connected to a wire nut. I am not sure if it has a fan relay, it has to have something to turn the fan on in cooling. It has no schematic on the furnace. The pump has no numbers on it, it has 1 stage on the pump plate. It has an in the ground 280 gallon tank with 2 lines to the pump. It just needs the fan switch to turn it on after the furnace is heated. I know it only has a 1 speed motor, since it has two wires coming out of the metal cable. I was an Aviation Electronics Technician that worked on F-14's in the US Navy for almost 8 years. Thank you for your knowledge of the subject. The instructors at HVAC school may not have the time to show these in depth instruction or there might be too many students trying to get a better view of the subject. In the military, I learned that a teacher loves to teach while an instructor is required to teach, very little skill to show a method in more than 1 way. A teacher helps the weaker students get almost as good as the best students. You are definitely a teacher with skill in his field and has a knack for entertaining the people. You keep the subject from being boring. Not everybody can do this. If you are not agressive enough as a student you can lose out of the learning. I learn much better if I can see the application of the theories. A picture is worth a thousand words, but a video with good to excellent directions are worth a million words.

[@jeremeysmelltoast7829]

So I have the Honeywell's one and it wont shut off after doing a anual cleaning . I disconnected it and it runs until the water is very low and I'm worried it may crack my burner by getting to hot w no water ...

[@HYDROGENTEK]

No, it will rotate until the fan is activated. Then no rotation, hence the fan and the furnace stays on for a long time until the breaker pop.

[@grayfurnaceman]

This sounds normal. The limit switch should not open unless there is a low air flow condition such as motor failure or plugged filter. What bothers me is you say the breaker pops. Do you mean the the circuit breaker? GFM

[@parksidegarage9437]

Wher does the fan and limit switch wire into this?

[@bernieclement3373]

found one about 8 years ago that a tech put a wire nut on the orange wire and wired everything directly to the black hot wire. of course it fired of and he left 2 days later i get a no heat call and on arrival Fuel oil dripping out of the small boiler room door and luckily there wasnt much fuel in the tank and it ran dry so I shut it down and had a 2 day mess.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Wow! That's like bypassing a limit! Very fortunate that they ran out of fuel. I have seen how fast a house can burn when fuel oil is involved. Could have been some dead people. Thanks for the thoughts. GFM

[@robbie4341]

Hi Gary my name is Robbie and I'm having a heck of a time trying to figure out the wiring for my grimsby seasonal 80 plus oil furnace, see I bought the furnace and the burner was off of it for transportation reasons but I'm not sure I can get turn on with switch not the thermostat and can hook the fan up to turn on the manually but really have no idea what wire goes where and I can't find anything online about them so I was hoping you might know something about them

[@grayfurnaceman]

There are several ways they are wired. You can send me pics and I will try. Send to [e-mail] GFM

[@robbie4341]

@@grayfurnaceman thanks Gary well do, I wired it the way you showed in the video and it worked I just have to figure out the wiring for my fan it seems to come on at the operating Temp but then kicks out a well continue to do so till I push the button in to switch to manual, and thank you for getting back to me a really appreciate it it's a huge help

[@chrislynquads]

Hi Gary maybe you can answer a question for me. I have a Beckett 7505 burner with a 7505P controller. What is going on is the burner fires and runs for 2 minutes and shuts down wait 7 minutes the burner will fire and run 2 minutes and keep repeating. My thermostat is set at 68 but I will only reach 64 .I checked my thermostats batteries and they are ok. Have you any idea. I did go on the Beckett website gave the same info and the result was a Flame Safe Guard, now is that the same as a Cad Cell. Is a Cad Cell or Flame Safe Guard the problem Thank you and I enjoyed your narrative of problems that I watched. Keep up the good work

[@grayfurnaceman]

You do not have a flame control shutdown problem as long as you do not have to reset the control. I would be looking at airflow problems. You are may be overheating. GFM

[@chrislynquads]

Ok, saying it is overheating where would you start and what would you be looking for. Do you think removing the complete burner assy and checking the firebox first or wrong direction. If we have an airflow issue what would be an aha moment how significant would the airflow problem be. Thanks again, Wes

[@grayfurnaceman]

@@chrislynquads Plugged filter, dirty blower wheel, plugged A/C coil, ductwork problems. GFM

[@lordtickles1478]

I know this video is older but hope you see this.i have the same set up. But my furnace fires on and off rapidly. I replaced the cad sensor. Wanted to test it so I hooked up an external one and while the furnace is running I shine a flashlight on the sensor and it turns off thr furnace? Also if if I disconnect the sensor the furnace runs fine till it trips. Any ideas?

[@grayfurnaceman]

I can't say I have seen that, but I would be changing the cad cell relay. GFM

[@Robert-fs6ge]

You referred to the white wire as the power supply but the black wire is the hot.On mine relay there's a split line with one being hot and the white was connected to the other line .It was working until I had to replace my burner motor. I rewired it exactly as it was and used your video as verification. Bit now the relay is dead. I can't even jump across the f to f terminals with wires disconnected (ICM 1503) The white wire shows no resistance so it's acting like ground. Any ideas??

[@jameschan6560]

Hi, I have the same system like the one you show in this video. When I try to replace the cad cell by accident I hit the block power wire to the mounting box and cause spark. Then it cause the wire only have little power but the power go into the system 110v which is ok. Only that mounting box wire have problem . How can I solve the fix the problem?

[@Robert-fs6ge]

You said the white wire is coming from the power supply but that it's the neutral wire. Is the black wire the power supply?

[@jeef357]

I have the same setup on my furnace. It's a Beckett and also the exact same Honeywell oil primary. I have a two wire thermostat. I'm trying to figure out how to wire in a new thermostat so I have independent blower control. Any thoughts? Do I need a 3wire setup? If so do I need a new oil primary control?

[@grayfurnaceman]

You will need a number of changes. You will need a fan center and an isolation relay. You can look up "fan center" and "isolation relay" on my channel search that may help. GFM

[@jeef357]

grayfurnaceman thank you sir

[@RJ-rp5nx]

This video is very informative, I had a question that I'm hoping you can help with. I had a Duane oil burner. I had to replace the gun drawer assembly but found out that there was no replacements. So I bought a new burner that is an afg Beckett. I need to wire it but I'm not sure what I'm looking at. I have a black and white coming out of the burner and I have a black, white orange and violet coming form the fan circuit board. I would assume black to black and white to white. But what about orange and violet? Where to they attach? I know the risks but I'm in a situation where I cannot afford any professionals and it's going to get cold. I have to get this running because I have a 6 year old and a baby in February. Would you be able to help?

[@grayfurnaceman]

+Roger Marvin The black to black and white to white is probably ok. The orange and violet I am not sure of. Can you send me pics? GFM

[@davidclark5138]

Nice tech vid. I was working on my spare beckett. And as I was un twisting the motor wires I noticed the insulation was cracking and coming off the strands, , can these leads be replaced, or is time for a new motor?

[@grayfurnaceman]

Probably a new motor. GFM

[@davidclark5138]

Ok thanks I sfarfed trimming back the outer sleeve. To inspect further and see they continue to go further down in. But not yet into the motor housing. ,I'll start a new moter search.thankd from a fellow nutmegger.

[@JamieKaos]

I have the same setup but my wires coming I also have red and green where do I hook those ones up?

[@weaslethorp]

I know this is an older video but my transformer has a blue and white wire and a white on coming out of it. I'm guessing it is the same as two blacks? May sound like a stupid question but I don't take chances with electricity

[@JohnSmith-uy7sv]

i tried one of these today, however my 31 year old miller type furnace has 4 wire's and 2 relays in the relay box. Mine also has a door switch which might be the extra wire that is confusing me and those at "johnstone supply." The unit now cost 195 + tax. They also had the new digital box and I had no idea how to wire that up either. I have no problem wiring anything as long as I know what I'm doing and what goes to what. Are you still around to help? Thanks.

[@grayfurnaceman]

+John Smith The 2 relays are for the burner motor and the ignition transformer. The door switch, unless it is the switch for the blower door, I don't know about. GFM

[@JohnSmith-uy7sv]

I was told by the furnace supply "johnstone" and some furnace people who were there, that they had never seen a 2 relay box before. I wired my old box back in but for some reason the relays won't pop in by themselves and when I force them, it only runs for about a few seconds and then shuts off. I don't understand this at all as I cut the wires loose from the 4 wire nuts and just redid them and filed the contacts on the 2 relays and it won't work. I checked the eye and it works perfectly with light and the readings. I've wired everything back the way I took it out and now it won't work.

[@lindalewis4380]

Mine is making a clicking sound now. Could this item be the problem I've had for years where the furnace (only when running the heat, not A/C) will sometimes keep running and not shut off? Sometimes it cuts off like it should, and sometimes not. Yesterday, that part started clicking, and the furnace sounded like it was cutting on and off. To stop the furnace from running, I have to shut the main switch off, and yes, a thermostat was replaced and that wasn't the problem.

[@grayfurnaceman]

If you jumper the thermostat (short the T-T terminals) and it stops clicking, you have a problem in the thermostat or wiring. If it makes no difference, the control may be failing or it may have a bad connection in the wiring. GFM

[@jasonbaillif]

Hi GFM. I've watched many of your video's (which are great, thank you) and can not find my exact issue.. I'm thinking it's blindingly obvious, but figured I'd ask. I have an oil furnace with the Honeywell R75-39R cad cell relay. I press the red button and nothing happens. I checked the sensor itself, cleaned it, still nothing. Motor has not been tripped. So I'm thinking I just need to replace this with the R8184G4009? Typically I could press the red button, it would fire up and all is well... Not now... Your suggestion would be greatly appreciated.

[@jasonbaillif]

Ok.. Thank you.. Now I get it to try, but no flame.. I've bled the line of air, clean the light sensor, verified I have spark and pulled the jet (all thanks to your videos). The Jet is VERY dirty and it seems the gap is pretty big. Much more than shown in your gun assembly video. I'm going to try and adjust that now and see what happens. Is there a way to check if the jet is clogged? a little fuel came out of the feul delivery side as I pulled it out.

[@jasonbaillif]

Cleaned up and working.. Thank you for your videos and prompt response. I greatly appreciate your assistance.

[@grayfurnaceman]

I don't test. I replace the nozzle every time I remove the gun. GFM

[@jasminmaldonado4984]

Where do you connect the B1 line coming from Triple Aquastat Relay Type L8124A, C

[@grayfurnaceman]

On most controls, the B1 goes to the switched terminal of the ignition control. GFM

[@joshuarexrode345]

Thinking about trying new relay for whatever reason I'm getting feedback on the neutral wire

[@grayfurnaceman]

You will have to explain "feedback on the neutral". GFM

[@joshuarexrode345]

Won't that make all neutral wires under wire nut hot?

[@robertolima-carvalho5696]

Can I install a ecobee3 thermostat on a system like this one or not

[@grayfurnaceman]

It can be done but you will have to add a fan center and an isolation relay. Will be doing a video on that. GFM

[@robertolima-carvalho5696]

Thank you very much for your quick reply and looking forward to the video

[@jasonv1106]

For the 2 Honeywell R8184g TT terminals, could someone tell me which T should go to the thermostat R? And the other T will go to the thermostat W. Modern thermostats need a C wire. So R and W need to be connected properly.

[@grayfurnaceman]

The answer depends on the thermostat you are connecting to. If the thermostat is battery operated (not battery backup, but operated), the terminals are interchangeable. If there is a 24 volt transformer that powers an air conditioning system, you may need an isolation relay. The problem here is if you connect the T-T terminals to a thermostat with 24 volt power to it, you will destroy the cad cell relay. GFM

[@joshuarexrode345]

When I hook up the black wire from relay to black incoming power wire it makes the white wire on relay hot at 120 volts??? Then if u wire nut the whites together you are sending 120 volts back on the neutral

[@grayfurnaceman]

That is normal. There is a feed thru of the relay. This video may help. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oKipcouHjb1qoac GFM

[@Roberob1189]

I just replaced my car cell relay reset box. Now my oil burner shuts off after 20 seconds or so and red light comes on. Would you know what the problem is. I'm screwed, it's Christmas eve and we need heat and hot water.

[@grayfurnaceman]

It sounds like the burner is not coming on. Do you have flame? GFM

[@copykon]

Awesome

[@joshuarexrode345]

It seems when i hook black hot wire to the relay it makes the white wire hot? And then backfeeds back on my neutral. Can't figure out what's going on

[@grayfurnaceman]

That is normal. If you hook up the black and power up the unit without connecting the neutral, the neutral becomes hot. GFM

[@OilHist]

I see the CAD cell was re-positioned on this burner. The CAD cell on my Beckett AF does not get a good flame view due to its location, so I get erratic ohm readings which sometimes jump all over the place (400-1200, with a spike up to 6000 or 10000), causing a lockout. Changing the CAD cell does not help. I'm using a Honeywell R7284U1004 primary. Can I re-position my CAD for better exposure?

[@grayfurnaceman]

You can. Its just a question of cut and try. You can also paint the burner tube with silver paint to help. GFM

[@OilHist]

Thank you! I did find a bad connection in the primary at one of the CAD terminals. It is not a wire connector. It appears to be internal as it changes drastically when terminal spade is moved. Shine a small light directly into the CAD and get 7 ohms; move the terminal slightly and it goes up to 999,999 ohms.

[@grayfurnaceman]

It could. I would check the heat exchanger. GFM

[@OilHist]

Ok, finally found what was causing the CAD ohms to jump all over and spike, causing it to go into lockout. One of the spade terminals on the R7284U primary was slightly loose. With furnace not running, I could shine a flashlight into the CAD cell and get a reading of 7 ohms. Then when I moved the wire on the spade connector, the ohms would jump up into the 90,000 range. I disassembled the primary and re-soldered the CAD terminals on the board and everything works well. Resistance starts at around 1400 ohms when furnace starts, then drops to around 300 after it's been running a couple minutes. I checked the heating registers with a CO detector and found nothing. Thanks for your help! Great site!

[@MaryNash-y8y]

How to wire a Field controls CK-63 control box to a Beckett Genisys 7505P primary control

[@grayfurnaceman]

The only way I can see to connect these 2 controls is to wire T1 to motor terminal on the primary, T2 to White of burner power, T3 to black on burner motor. GFM

[@HYDROGENTEK]

What kind of symptoms if a cad cell is going bad or it is bad? My furnace will run continuously then it will stop and the breaker will pop, if I recent the breaker it will fire back up.

[@grayfurnaceman]

If you mean the red button on the cad cell relay, there could be a number of problems. Easy first. Remove the cad cell and clean the surface. Next, you can check the cad cell resistance. Hope this helps. GFM

[@4bosox]

Great video. I am having a problem with my boiler turning on and off constantly at times. Sometimes it runs for awhile other times not so much. I happend to see some blue light coming around the reset button on the Honeywell relay. I tried to rewire with the same one in your video and went to turn on the heat and nothing came on. Should I have jumpered out the TT's on the new relay or will that just keep the furnace going constantly? My old relay did not have those. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Sometimes the boiler controls the high voltage of the burner, so the TT terminals must be jumpered. GFM

[@kevinwalsh465]

My furnace s blower won’t stop blowing along time after the oil shots off what’s wrong

[@grayfurnaceman]

The fan switch may be out of adjustment. This video may help: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pavHgpWiaJV7rMU GFM

[@RidebmxSandM]

I have the same relay, what is the problem if the red light is staying on

[@grayfurnaceman]

I would guess possible shorted cad cell sensor. GFM

[@day-trishad3937]

Hello just a shot in the dark hopefully someone has come across this previously. I have a BECKETT oil burner heat suddenly stopped working the other day. Cad cell relay box light on. Tried to reset it, nothing happens on reset. Light kicks back on after 30-40 secs. Noticed a light buzzing sound coming from box. Changed the relay to a new one with no light and a reset button. Had someone suggest a bad transformer tried to test arc with screwdriver and got no spark whatsoever (After hitting reset button of course). Can it be possible for the transformer to fail completely and produce no spark or would the spark be weak on a bad transformer?

[@day-trishad3937]

Also must note motor has not been tripped the reset button is not popped out.

[@grayfurnaceman]

If there is power to the transformer and no spark, the transformer has failed. GFM

[@day-trishad3937]

grayfurnaceman much appreciated figured out it was the cad cell relay (control box) I had changed it previously but the remanufactured one I purchased was defective. Thanks again!!!!!

[@josephhillard7015]

My burner has a blue wire any ideas!

[@grayfurnaceman]

Beats me, do you have a model # of the control? GFM

[@kayallen2641]

Need help on my oil furnace that does nothing.It is a Beckett burner assembly and the control is R7 B 1032 .I used to every winter have to go under house and just hit the reset with the green led flashing and it worked perfect.I dont even have a light blinking but the contro is humming.I dont have any power to the orange wire.The black and red I do that are together have 120 V. I have been watching videos and my diagnosis is that my cad cell is seeing some light from somewhere. Would that be a fair diagnosis.Or I have a bad cad cell. But main prob is nothing is happening no reset light no blinking the thermostat is calling for heat. What if I took a towel or2 and throw over where the cad cell is to black it out after I close up everything and it should ignite.If not I believe i need new controls.The air work blower fan works but that has nothing to do with the furnace does it.Please help and any advice would be appreciated and if I can help you with anything I will.my wife and family call me about everything .Built homes and commercial for 28 years.I race 4cyl cars an.I wished I never had let my wife see me fix stuff now she thinks I can do it all.Only enough to to keep her up my butt about getting this that and the muffler bearing in her car fixed. I told her she would need too take it to the dealership. I let you know how that goes on the 17th of Jan.2018

[@grayfurnaceman]

First, are you sure the motor is not out on overload? There is a button on most of the older burner motors that can be reset. As for the cad cell. Just unplug the cad cell from its mount. The only other way is to remove one of the yellow wires from the F terminal at the cad cell relay. If it starts, either the cad cell or the wiring has failed. GFM

[@joehillard4700]

Yuit asablue wre where’d itgo

[@georgev5738]

I need help asap, I haven't have heat since the cold weather started. I have a weil McNeil oil heat boiler heater and it has 2 round 15 amp fuses and a 20 amp circuit breaker. What happens is when I flip the boiler switch it blows one of the round fuses and it trips the breaker. Two times the heater started and it started to leak out the pressure relieve valve once it was getting warm and I turned the heater off it blew the fuse and tripped the breaker, but now it just blows the fuse and tripped the breaker. Can someone please help out what I can test or do . Thank you in advance.

[@grayfurnaceman]

You appear to have a dead short. You can start by disconnecting parts until it stops blowing fuses or look for wires touching metal parts. GFM

[@georgev5738]

Hey thanks for your response and input. I agree but this morning I tested the 2 wires for the switch on the boiler that I replaced cause it was broken and I had it on off position and when I hit the breaker the boiler turned on so I turned it off and it blew the fuse again so I switched the wires around on the switch and when I hit the breaker again and the switch was in the off position again it started again. So I replaced the round fuse and hit the breaker now it only blows the fuse and tripped the breaker every time and it won't start. So I noticed that the 2 wire's on the switch are hot. So now I'm a little lost trying to get a wiring diagram to see if I can figure something out lol. If not I'm going to check wires here and there for continuity and touch metal and wires. Hey thanks again for your help this the first time I've done this it feels good when someone response to you. Thanks.

[@georgev5738]

Really I wouldn't know where to start disconnecting parts or maybe I can figure it out some how.

[@georgebeamer]

My reset button now trips after the furnace turns off. I push the reset button, and it starts back fine. What fixes this issue? Thanks

[@grayfurnaceman]

You are almost certainly experiencing flame failure during the heat cycle. Possibly plugged oil oil filter? GFM

[@georgebeamer]

@@grayfurnaceman thank you for the quick response! Multiple issues including right side of transformer not making contact & the cad sensor! Also bled, had some air in the line!

[@grayfurnaceman]

If you have air in the line, you may have a vacuum leak that causes the air. This, of course assumes you have oil. GFM

[@yanks250125]

can't get a spark. replaced transformer. still no spark. didn't change any wiring. cad cell gets readings on ohm meter and reset button fires up the pump but can't get a spark to ignite it. what could be my problem?

[@grayfurnaceman]

Do you have power to the transformer? GFM

[@yanks250125]

I believe so but how can I check. open up the relay and test the wires?

[@yanks250125]

it had worked until recently. what could have went wrong?

[@grayfurnaceman]

Everything works until it dos not. During a trial for ignition, test the input wires with a voltmeter. Careful, 120 volts. GFM

[@yanks250125]

all the power wires are in the same twist cap and everything else appears to be working

[@jefferyalsept9386]

coleman oil burner mode lMSR-C # blue and white wire were do they go thanks

[@grayfurnaceman]

Sorry, I have no info on that. GFM

[@brendaaller4040]

I did all of that a it still will not work

[@grayfurnaceman]

I will need symptoms to help. GFM

[@kommoncents0000]

I have an oil primary control just like the one shown in your video with the orange, white, and black wires coming out the back. I have a new oil primary control and have provided some picture links below. Where would I connect the orange, black and white wire on my new control. I don't want to mess with the existing wiring. I also have a fan limit control. Furnace is working fine with the old primary, just thought I would get a new one. Thanks. imageshack.com/a/img921/1458/PfKiME.jpg imageshack.com/a/img921/862/y8snQH.jpg

[@grayfurnaceman]

Black goes to L1, white goes to any L2, orange goes to motor and ignition. These last 2 must be jumpered. Hope this helps. GFM

[@kommoncents0000]

I hooked up the wires as you said. The new oil primary led panel came on this time, but my 2 wire thermostat is not activating the furnace. I raised the thermostat passed room temp. also jumped the 2 TT (Thermostat wires) furnace does not kick on. Went through the set-up menu set option for furnace as opposed to WH and blower. Still does not come on. Power is going to the blower area and fan limit switch. There is a brown wire on the lower left of the White Rodgers fan limit this brown wire connects to the black L1 on the new OPC. When hook up the old OPC using the black, white, and orange wires, furnace works. Maybe the fan limit control wire should go to the limit connecter on the new control.?

[@grayfurnaceman]

Yes. My mistake. GFM

[@kommoncents0000]

I tried it again still does not work. Put fan controller limit wire to LIMIT connector. and black hot to L1 connector. Nothing. I am just going to get a standard honeywell similar to the one in your video here. I have a Heil furnace, Wayne MSR burner, white-rodgers 11" fan limit control, 0.75 80A nozzle. Which honeywell should i buy as far as lockout time 15,30, or 45 ? I just want an extra for a backup.

[@grayfurnaceman]

The 45 second one is probably ok. GFM