HTRC Charger C150 C240 T150 T240 Fan Noise FIX | DIY

RC and FPV fanatics know about how great these HTRC chargers are. Here is an easy fix that significantly drops that annoying fan noise down to a tolerable level.
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[@hansheld8782]

Thx man, helped a lot. I also added some additional fans on the other side using the 16V of the xt60.

[@TommyTester]

Nice work!

[@christianlarsen5424]

Thanks for the idea. I added a second fan (in serie), blowing in. It is working very well. I hope this can be useful also : )

[@efdawahfan]

i had the same idea 2 lmao !!!

[@timoburgi3784]

If it's a common size like 40mm it might be a good idea to change it to a noctua fan, more static pressure and less noise.

[@Ykchoy1333]

This is a pretty good idea. Tommy.. i have a question. Can the resistor be solder in either way towards the fan of the positive wire(red)?

[@TommyTester]

Yes. It can go on either wire too. Thanks for watching.

[@Ykchoy1333]

@@TommyTester is much better after the installation. Tqvm

[@defg4484]

Hello. Can you possibly help me? My fan on this charger is near to its end , and i would like to replace it. Can you tell me what fan i need? (Plug n play). I see you got some experience, thats why ive asked. Cant find any details on the web. Thanks a lot! David

[@Fastaschit]

Do you know how to recalibrate this charger? Many of these chargers have a hidden menu to allow precise calibration using a 6 cell balance connection. If I can find this can be done I will buy one of these and definitely follow you advice with a resistor for the fan. Great video

[@TommyTester]

I'm not aware of such a hidden menu.

[@SiR2Dean]

If I could give 2 👍 I would.

[@mikeritchie9081]

Nice, I just got the T240, and will need to do this. Have you tried a 10A charge? I only get 8.8-8.9A max with DC or AC input. I'm thinking its actually 120w, so 120w divided by the voltage (13.3v in my case) gives around 9A, or 8.8 with normal conversion losses.

[@TommyTester]

No I haven't tried 10A. Like most things, there are exaggerations and then there is reality. The 10A was likely a peak that lasted part of a second. Still, I like this unit. I has helped me revive dead LIPOs and to see what's happening while charging in a pack. Good luck with the T240.

[@mikeritchie9081]

@@TommyTester Actually under 10A I did notice things heated up fast! Note I was running fan at 5v though. But I am charging a 230AH battery with this (haha, yes you read that right).

[@TommyTester]

@@mikeritchie9081 Good luck with that! Wow!

[@mikeritchie9081]

@@TommyTester Just a quick update, this info may help somebody. I finally hooked up a dc power supply able to drive this charger at 20A, note the T240 dual. No way it can work. even with the fan at full speed, the channel 1, on the left away from the fan overheated over 80deg C within a few mins and stopped charging! Pretty sure its due to the DCDC boost converter it uses under DC. dc charging runs way hotter. so as a solution to charge my two 230AH batteries, I will just get another charger and run both off AC. Charging one channel now at 8.7A and only at 49deg C with fan at only 5v. (note this is for an RV, allowing silent overnight charging)

[@cwatson42785]

@@TommyTester Hey bud how to you revive dead lipos with this? Also is it bad or worse to charge your lipos at a higher Amp rate? Is there any negatives charging at a higher rate at like 8a or 9a rather than 5a which is usually what I charge at? When getting into the hobby I was told to set it at whatever mah your lipos are. So charging a 5200mah I would set at 5.2a and a 8000mah set at 8a. So was curious if it didn't hurt the lipo in the long run if I should do them all at a fast rate like 8a? Thanks!

[@Tonylovesjazz]

Can you please post a link for this resistor. Thank and Best Regards.

[@TommyTester]

Best deal. www.ebay.com/itm/SEI-RS-1-1W-1-Watt-Metal-Oxide-Film-Resistor-100-Ohm-FLAMEPROOF-5-Tolerance/123792621499

[@omu_fpv]

How did this hold up over time? Serious question cause I plan on possibly purchasing the c150

[@TommyTester]

Still works great.

[@Mark-sq6os]

Hi, do you by chance have another link to this resistor? The one posted does not work. Thanks

[@TommyTester]

I've updated the link. Thanks.

[@born2fish838]

I have the same charger the fan is going out . I just want to replace it. So do I just measure it and find another one on ebay that is rated for 18v?

[@TommyTester]

Pretty much. A 12V one would work if you place a resistor in the line like I've shown.

[@Desert-edDave]

I have the C150 and while it's feature set is nice, the fact it can't be calibrated and reads voltage incorrectly (albeit only around 150mv), it's not a good investment. Apparently some of the HTRC T-series touchscreen cousins have calibration... a shame it has a USB port supposedly for "firmware updates" and is worthless.

[@franciscoarzu8120]

I have a T150, and the calibration does not work.. one cell is wrongly reading the voltage, can calibrate and adjust, but the calibration is not saved permanently.. in the next restart, is bad again.. i think might be the little resistors on the balance plug that might have gone bad. Will try to replace it and see if that fix the problem.

[@matthewgordon4123]

Quick question wouldn't that slow down the discharge? It was my understanding that the charger uses the fans as part of the discharge process.

[@TommyTester]

That's not correct. It simply is used to cool down the components used for both charging and discharging the battery. The fan draws almost no power on its own.

[@adopancia7445]

@@TommyTester Nice! Do you know how much power that fan drows? This is in order to chose my correct wattage of the resistor (I have on hand some 2W 75ohm ones... thanks in advance.

[@chrisyanda8884]

Have you noticed with this charger that regardless of what the storage voltage you set it to it storage charges to 3.8v per cell? My t240 does this, it's not the end of the world because 3.8 is a fine storage voltage but why bother putting an option to change it if it still goes to 3.8v

[@TommyTester]

I'll need to test that. Thanks for mentioning it!

[@rcrobotics5450]

Hello. Please write to me what the nominal of the resistor you installed on the cooling fan ? Thank you in advance.

[@TommyTester]

100 ohm. 1 watt.

[@TommyTester]

100 ohm. 1 watt.

[@rcrobotics5450]

@@TommyTester Thank you, my friend. Success and prosperity.

[@monkeytrident]

Question what could this be, I am very lucky this shit me up, so i was playing path of exile at my computer and right next to me I have two lipos 3s batteries charging into storage mode, they was taking ages lipo storage 90 min+ duration, Then I smelt electrical burning, I paniced and I turned off the charger immediately, I am sure I saw a thin layer of smoke, I then quickly unplugged both batteries and placed them into the lipo safe bag and placed them outside under a shelter, after 30 minutes, I tool the charged to my friends garage and tried his power outlet and the charger turns on and functions but I was too worried to charge a battery, I also inspected the charger for any burns which I saw nothing, and I also inspected the two 3s batteries, I saw no damage i.e leakage, puffing of the cells, or burn marks or any damaged wires, does anyone know what this could be ? is this charger still safe to use, perhaps I should check a battery status on one of the batteries with this charger in the morning ? help please many thanks, p.s the charger is the HTRC C240 Duo.

[@alex_fpv97]

hello. what voltage is the fan?

[@TommyTester]

No label, but they applied 16V; adding the resister dropped it down to 8V.

[@alfonsodesaboya9751]

How is possible that your voltage in your cells are so low, less than 3.5volts, that battery for sure are bad

[@dsyeta174omkshirsgar2]

can you share internal circuit pic?

[@TommyTester]

I don't have the schematic if that is what you mean.

[@dsyeta174omkshirsgar2]

@@TommyTester no i dont want schematic. I just need number of a component that is beside of centre heat sink. i think that is resistor. My resistor got fried when i tried to discharge my 6s lipo

[@dsyeta174omkshirsgar2]

@@TommyTester left side resistor of heat sink

[@TommyTester]

@@dsyeta174omkshirsgar2 This is a SMD (Surface Mounted Device) resistor, 2512, 1 Watt, 0.1 ohm, marked R100, 1% tolerance. You could solder in a normal axial lead one after removing the blown one. Chances are it blew because one of the high current Surface Mounted MOSFET transistors under the heatsink shorted out ... common problem. Good luck! Tommy.

[@dsyeta174omkshirsgar2]

@@TommyTester Thank you so much. as you said, SMD MOSFET might have shorted out, so do I have to check them all?

[@thiloschieschke9766]

If you give tips here, you also have some responsibility! This tip here is very primitive but it works. But only if you don't charge at full power! for this you have to attach a termo bimetal (50-60°C 122-140°F) to the heat sink. this must then bridge the resistance for full cooling performance!

[@superchargerone]

Haha talking about taking responsibility your suggestion is worse! Disagree with your use of thermo bimetallic resistors bec this charger switches on the fan based on internal temperature sensing and if you have used this charger before it starts the fan very soon after you start charging. You are by passing that with an independent sensor that will only allow the fan to start when temperature at the heat sink reaches that temperature and will not let the fan start even if the charger wants it to start at a lower temperature! Lol. by the time we wait for your suggested temperature to be reached, the original internal sensor would have kick started the fan way before. So ya yours is worse😂. Talking about not knowing what you are talking about lol

[@TheBrain2K]

@@superchargerone Thilo's suggestion was to *bridge* the resistor with the bimetallic sensor, not *replace* it. So at low temperatures, the fan would run at slow speed (8V) through the resistor. But when the sensor trips at high temperature, it would bypass the resistor and the fan would run at normal speed to increase cooling. That does sound like a better idea, still offering the full cooling power that the manufacturer designed for when needed. But lowering the noise when partial cooling is more than enough.