Hyundai / Kia steering noise - clunk. Easiest Procedure. Coupler failed. ALL Hyundai & Kia vehicles

Show fast and easy way to replace the noise causing, rubber coupling for MDPS steering. This is a 2012 Sonata with MDPS. I said 2010 in video. I mis-spoke the year. This failure if for all Hyundai & Kia vehicles. If you like Video, Please THUMBS UP & SUBSCRIBE. NOTE: This is called motor driven, power steering and is electric steering. Just be careful with wiring harnesses. Disconnect as needed to drop column! Do not let column weight rip up wiring or connections

[@richdagsher2931]

The money video! I knew there had to be a simpler way to get this job done. Thanks for sharing!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Rich Dagsher - Thanks much. Was happy to help. Please subscribe :)

[@Minos1987able]

Is there part needed to replace that rubber?

[@AutomotiveEZ]

If you have a Kia or Hyundai that has electric steering and uses this bushing - you'd need the bushing from a dealer

[@davidplaisance8385]

@@AutomotiveEZ wow I just watched one the guy took almost the front cap off to change it out ! THANKS FOR THE VIDEO BROTHER !!!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

@@davidplaisance8385 - Thanks David. Be well!

[@thehandynomadthehandynomad843]

I just did this today. It took me about 90 minutes all because of your video. I’m no mechanic. Thank you so much sir! Great video and instructions. The best one on KZbin in this subject.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Poetryntrucks Poetryntrucks - Hey buddy. So happy to help you. And your comments just “made my day” lol. Thanks! 😊

[@Craig5150EVH]

Hey just a quick question.... What about the possibility of setting off your airbags or and electronic controls that would be disconnected during this process and am I gonna run into any of those problems and how would I overcome them.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

@@Craig5150EVH - if you FIRST disconnect battery and everything (after job) is hooked up correctly, before battery is reconnected - no worry about setting a lamp off or an SRS issue. Don't forget - unlike other guys on youtube who disconnect every wire connector possible (for no reason) I basically disconnected nothing. (as noted in video) This is my fast and efficient method. Makes job easier. Just always make sure you are not pulling on a harness. Those are the rare times that you MAY need to remove a plug

[@jassonspeir6425]

What is the parts actual name?

[@carlv8168]

@@jassonspeir6425 Flexible Steering Coupler

[@jamesabarela]

Just a tip for those of you planning on doing it...after I just finished mine and it's beautifully quiet and smooth btw. I found that the steering column is a LOT heavier and awkwardly positioned than one would think and a lot harder to get back into place once finished, so I decided to get a piece of cloth and the spare tire jack that goes to the car and I used it to jack the steering column up and back into place and it worked like a charm. I just couldn't get the right position to do it myself and I didn't want to ruin anything and the jack helped a lot hopefully this tip helps anyone else trying this diy fix

[@goldwolf0606]

Thanks fir the tip. I’ll keep it in mind as I do mine.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

I never had issues lifting one but you're correct - it is heavy and tire jack idea is good. Just be careful folks. Safety first.

[@jamesabarela]

@@AutomotiveEZ really? I could lift it fine, but lining up the holes to tighten the bolts was what was hard for me, maybe I just ran out of steam by the end and couldn't hold it up lol but speaking of bolts, did I do something wrong , because the bolts that sit right underneath the dash if your sitting in the driver seat looking at the dashboard. Right underneath the cluster, those bolts keep coming loose. I even tightened them again but every so often they come loose again, any advice ?

[@matthayes1891]

@@jamesabarela if you find bolts coming loose, an easy solution is to tack weld the bolt to the metal it butts up to.

[@jmccann6735]

@@jamesabarela Screw welding, just a dab of some blue loctite and they'll stay tight

[@Tyranthunter]

Thank you so much. Bc of your video and others I was able to replace mine on my 2013 Kia Optima. It took me about 2 hours but I estimate I saved around $250-$300. And the best part is I only had to remove about five clips. It’s so satisfying fixing your own car.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Solomon Roberts - very happy you had success! Yes, it is indeed, satisfying :)

[@nedeljkodukic7279]

I was about to give up and call my garage when I found this video. You saved me a lot of money and time. No need to unplug anything around the steering wheel. Thanks a lot!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thx much. Glad this helped you

[@jmccann6735]

This is it right here!! Watched a ton of other videos, this process here was the ticket to getting the job done quick and easy, thank you so much. Never touched the fuse box or any of the steering harnesses, only the couple connectors for Eco mode and cabin lights on the lower plastic panel. Absolutely a 45 minute job for anyone with hand tools and basic confidence with a wrench. Just a couple small things, 1) I did take off the bottom plastic cover as well from the steering column, to get a good angle on the 12mm nuts. Just half turn the steering wheel each way, two little phillips screws and the all the plastic is out of your way. 2) I used a Sharpie to mark BOTH gears inside the motor as soon as I got it off. If your coupler is as shredded as mine, you end up with rubber all crammed onto the teeth of each gear. Mark BOTH gears, and you can safely turn and spin them around to clean with a vacuum, or compressed air and a pick. Do NOT use liquid cleaner like brake clean, it'll damage the seal inside your steering motor. Realigning the motor gears was a piece of cake, small shimmy of the wheel and it dropped into place. If it doesn't smoothly line up, it isn't lined up 😂 And 3) The column is not that heavy, don't use a bottle jack, it's gonna get in your way. Just lift with one arm, get the hook into the gate, and thread the 12mm nuts onto the studs to hold the weight. Lining up the rear bolts was a small hassle, but just wiggle the column around and they'll thread up. And that's it! Piece of cake, steering is firm and quiet again. I'm a Brake and Alignment Tech so I wasn't super worried about resetting the wheel sensor if need be, but never had to. No dash lights, no alignment problems, it's as good as new! Thanks again for teaching the easiest method for this job!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Hi J - thanks for the kind words, I am happy to help. And thanks for all your input on this job as well. Looking at any auto repair from a few different angles is a good thing. Be well!

[@robbieg.3462]

I’m having issues with putting the steering shaft back in. When I lift it up to put in the back slot for the back bolt, it makes the front 2 nut brackets are not aligned. In fact they are off facing to the side and it’s not able to turn. Is this an alignment issue with the first half of the shaft and the second half? Should I separate the 1st half of the shaft from the 2nd half and try and turn it?

[@troythompson5699]

Thanks for the video! Saved me a ton of time. It was straight forward, just how you explained. I thought the part about not turning the gears was especially helpful. Thanks again man!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Happy to help Troy. Thx much for posting

[@songforguy1]

I did this on a hyundai i30 which was different and more difficult because the motor is mounted on the side of the shaft which led me to have to pull more plugs out in order to access the bolts around the motor. This became more scarier because of the weight being on one side of the shaft made me worry about it moving a lot and then maybe having to recalibrate it. But anyway it all worked out fine and it saved me a bundle, many thanks, cheers!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thank you. Glad to help. There are many diff versions of this design so some designs are a bit trickier to work on

[@mackesm]

Thanks for the video! Made the job easy. Procedure works well for 2012 Kia Optima. Did need to disconnect one small connector on the right to keep from ripping out some small wires. One other tip is to put alignment marks on the motor gear and motor housing. It does spin easily and moves when trying to clean things up. As someone else mentioned, used a bottle jack to lift the column back up into place.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thank you!

[@michaelphelps5064]

thats the ticket for me 2012 optima BAM!

[@CJ-ls9mk]

This video was GREAT!!! It took me almost 2hrs due to having to substitute for tools i didn’t have but it worked. Took the car for a spin and no more rattle/click. I could only imagine what a mechanic would charge me for this.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Carl Jointer - Thank you my brother. Glad it helped you!

[@robertdiamondoil2384]

Dealers wanted $684 regular shop wanted $480

[@pkasb90]

I think your video is one of the best ones on this issue with Kia models.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thanks so much!

[@turdymac234]

Thank you man! I work in a shop and my boss has been scared to tare into one of these problems not knowing that it is, and spending all the time diagnosing....so thank you! I can bring it to him with the fix!!!!!!!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thx Brad! Just be aware the motor mounted on side of column is the easier one! Like in my video. If the motor is INLINE with column - those are trickier. Hyundai / Kia had two mounting styles on these motors. The motors mounted 90 degrees off column are the easier! Best of luck to ya!

[@gable]

This is the best straight forward video, took me a while to do the replacement but looked way easier than the other videos. Thank you sir!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

I really appreciate your words. Be well sir!

[@Mattryanfisher]

@@AutomotiveEZ yes, no bs straight talk from someone who can eloquently to the procedure

[@AutomotiveEZ]

@@Mattryanfisher Thanks Matthew. I do aporeciate!

[@morganplummer1685]

Thanks for making this video! Just did this on a 2014 Forte with 136,000 miles. The steering coupler was absolutely shredded. Very similar method for replacing on the Forte to the Hyundai in this video. You rock 🤘

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thanks so much Morgan… glad it helped you out!

[@olegs79]

This is a great video. Thank god I saw it before I tried this procedure. The only issue is that Hyndai did not leave enough harness to drop the steering wheel all the way to the floor. It was a bit dicey with all the weight potentially resting on the harness. Put a block of wood under the steering wheel to hold up the wheel. The rear T30 bolt at the back is a pain in the ass to get to. Take it slow and don't strip it. Didn't rush. Took about 2 hours. 30 minutes might be tight for a layman. It's done and I'm happy. Thanks again. A+++ video.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Glad you got it done sir! The harnesses do vary depending on exact year and model

[@aldawson4943]

Thanks for this video I just purchased a 13 for my little brother and heard this noise I'm going to do all this once I get time! Thanks and greatttttt commentating

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Al Dawson - Thanks for the kind words. Am very happy to help. Just take your time and always keep eyes on the harnesses so nothing gets pulled on! Be well

[@dee1380]

the easiest video I've found on this.. the other videos show all this xtra stuff, takin off connectors, fuse box, etc. thanx..

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Dee 1 - Thx so much. Glad it helped you!

[@FC-yq9om]

Thanks for your video; I used yours in conjunction with another to get the job done on my ‘12 optima. There was no way to drop everything without disconnecting some wires to avoid yanking them. But apart from that, it was all the same. Thanks!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thx for the comments!

[@michaelbuck294]

Thank you for this video. I did this on my 2010 Kia pro ceed. Had to take the column out to access the motor but all went well and problem fixed with a £10 part. Garage wanted £500+

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thanks Michael. Very happy it was helpful :)

[@Fenoren]

Just replaced this part in my '13 Sonata using your video. The hook on the column was at 90 degree angles though, instead of the angles yours was in. This made hanging the column back a huge pain in the ass. About a third of my time was spent hanging the thing again to bolt it in place. If anyone else is having trouble mounting it again, I recommend getting in the seat and holding it up by the motor with your foot to get it back on that hook.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

I'm sure the hooks - as does some of the panels and wiring - well, these parts vary from model to model and year to year. The basic flavor is the same though, in most I've seen. Thx for the info!

[@rickyhurt1960]

Finally someone that gets straight to the point! Thumbs up brother

[@AutomotiveEZ]

I really do appreciate your kind words! I try to make things easy - not hard. Lol. Be well brother

[@rickyhurt1960]

@@AutomotiveEZ like you said, if you already know what cha doing just tell me and get it over with lol, rip it off like a bandaid so I can get this done. All this 30min videos for newbies is for the birds. Very much appreciate it! Be well and keep doing what cha doing please lol

[@AutomotiveEZ]

@@rickyhurt1960 - Thanks again!!

[@douglasantone781]

Just did my 12 sonata thanks for the video! Any more 12 sonata 2.0t videos love too see them! Thanks again!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thx so much my man!

[@yehoshuazerah1121]

Great video, and great detailed explanation! Thanks SO much!

[@rodolfolopez9595]

Dude you are the man…I’m going to get after it when the part comes in ..🤘🏼

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thank you

[@roysmith4716]

Very good video, informative. Thanks for posting.

[@robertcrane3005]

Gotta fix my spouses this weekend. This is the video I was looking for. Ty

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thx!

[@thomasjones36]

I was about to remove my fuse box on my 2013 model thanks for the video🙏🏽

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thanks!

[@panicineurope]

About to give this a try! Thanks so much for the informative video.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

You’re welcome. Hope it helps you!

[@josephflanigan7637]

Thanks so much for the video. You saved me a lot of possible trouble and made the repair an easy one on my 2013 Kia Soul.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Joseph Flanigan - Thx much! Great to hear. Be well :)

[@MissJoy16]

What did it sound like before you fixed it?

[@josephflanigan7637]

@@MissJoy16 mine was a rubbing thud whenever I turned the steering wheel passed center, left or right.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

MissJoy16 You’d hear a mild clunk (inside interior) when turning wheel side to side.

[@carlv8168]

Thanks for sharing your video. It was very informative, especially your advice about NOT messing with and rotating the motor gear after unbolting the casing from the flange (putting the steering sensor at risk of needing recalibration). I have a 2012 Veloster with the same issue and have viewed a couple of DIY videos on the coupler replacement, which is very similar to the Sonata (with the exception of only 3 anchoring bolts for the column instead of 4 (as in the Sonata). I will be attacking this project tomorrow and will be sure to mark the gear position with a white paint pen, so as not to disturb its at-rest position.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thx for comments and yes just take your time with it and you should have no worries - just be aware the column will have weight to it. Be well!

[@carlv8168]

@@AutomotiveEZ You're welcome. I'll let you know the outcome. Cheers, and thanks!

[@urbansolis]

​@@carlv8168so how did u do??

[@carlv8168]

@@urbansolis It was very successful. The only challenging part was contorting yourself to reach up under the dash, steering column and pedal box areas. I wouldn't recommend it for anyone with physical limitations.

[@desmondgriffin3924]

Great video nice and quick . All others have you disconnecting everything!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thanks much!

[@leothelion2001]

Just happened to my veloster turbo ( October 2019 ) , the local Hyundai dealer is charging me a whopping 200 dollars for service whereas the coupling piece is just a miesly 2 dollars price , after watching several videos about replacing the coupler , this is by far the best one , everyone else is dismantling the whole thing , pulling out all wires while this one leaves everything connect , less is better. Kudos to you sir Update : fixed my car successfully, did not disconnect wires from the fuse box or none of that nonsense , although it's a Hyundai car , they're not exactly the same , the veloster turbo got 3 bolts that holds that steering wheel column. You'll need a 9/16 to get that last bolt in the very end, big guys don't even attempt the dismantle it , I'm 5'10 and 170 lbs , I was struggling to squeeze in there , I used help from a friend to help put the steering wheel column back in place , it was frustrating to say the least because most tutorial videos doesn't show how it's done on a veloster , so good luck to the veloster owners

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Leonardo di parma - Thanks so much my brother. Pls do realize I have been repairing cars and trucks since I was 14 in the 1980’s. I “see” what most other mechanics can’t see. It’s simply experience. I hate to take “too much” apart for no reason. Thx again!

[@michaelphelps5064]

I did this procedure 2 years ago on a 2012 optima.. There was 1 video that explained the replacement procedure fairly well. I have another to do this week on another 2012 optima. Im going to see if this short cut works on it. I didnt rip the 1st one apart but I did unhook the wiring and battery. Thanks for the refresher course and a few more short cuts. Im 59 yo. I can use all the short cuts there are. Lol.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Hi… There is nothing wrong with taking any wiring harness off - if required. You should disconnect battery no matter what. Best of luck!

[@jamesabarela]

Ok you have convinced me that this IS something I can and want to do now. Before your video I had watched a couple of other videos and in all the other videos they completely tore down the entire dash it seems like, and in some videos they took the steering column out completely and I was like HELL NO!!!! This ain't the job for me. I thought this was suppose to be an easy fix this doesn't look easy at all!!!! But after watching your video I am totally gonna do it, and do it using your method, so much less complicated, thanks for this!!!!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Hi James - Thanks so much. Just take your time and be careful with the wiring. It differs from model to model. If anything seems uncomfortable during job - feel free to message here. I do my best to answer messages

[@jamesabarela]

@@AutomotiveEZ Awesome!!! You da man!!!! I will definately keep that in mind....after this repair, next is the lower control arm 😒 that doesn't look too difficult. Luckily im mechanically inclined and sorta kinda know what I am doing. Then after that repair maybe some brakes and belts but she literally just got a brand new engine put in her about a week ago so she's running like a champ!!!!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

@@jamesabarela awesome.. gotta keep her in shape :)

[@jamesabarela]

@@AutomotiveEZ i have my first question!!!!! So im about to crack open the motor to access the coupler, but the tool i am using just wants to strip the bolt....what tool and size do I use that hopefully will get it to break lose without further stripping the bolt? Other than that, all has gone well and easy....

[@AutomotiveEZ]

@@jamesabarela Hi James! I remember using a Torx Bit Socket. Should be a “T30” if my memory serves. What size are ya using? I used 1/4” ratchet too - all 1/4 “ tools fit in that space best!

[@chadgrimsley9847]

Thank you so much for posting, just replaced mine on a '13 Veloster today - had some trouble getting the column back up and into place but got it done.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Hi Chad - yea, the column has some weight to it and can be a little awkward, geometry-wise. That's why I rely that "hook and window" (pointed out in this video) to just 'lift and hook it' and deal with nuts / bolts later. BTW - I'm certain that column hook is there for factory assembly line purposes. Trust me, no car maker puts anything "in" a car to make it easy on the Mechanic! Lol. It's quite the opposite! They seem to enjoy torturing us.. Glad you got it done buddy!

[@Jazzinger]

probably watch this again. thanks again, Diana

[@alansunday]

I love you man. About to do a '14 Kia Forte. Hoping it's the same concept. Love the video. Keep up the good work.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thanks Alan!

[@RTR_87]

How did go? I'm also about to do this on a 14 forte.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Daniel Walker - The Forte should be similar - but do realize there can be slight differences. So watch them wire harnesses! Don’t let any get pulled on

[@alansunday]

@@RTR_87 It went well! Thanks to this video! It was basically the same thing other than the way the steering column is mounted. It was 2 studs instead of 4 in this video with a pivot bolt toward the foot pedals that I took out to let the column drop. This video helped out a lot!

[@RTR_87]

Great! Thanks for the reply

[@dmitry9404]

Thanks! You've saved me $370!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

D P - Thank you

[@sonatahybrid]

Thanks. I just did this on my 2011 Sonata Hybrid, took 40 minutes and less than $3 for the part.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thx!

[@patricknolan1625]

Thanks for posting this video. I had been trying to figure out what the noise was, in my 2012 Veloster, for a loooong time. I even took it to the dealer and (very long story short) they were useless. Some research online to find out it was the flex coupler, finding/ordering the revised part, and then stumbling upon your video...I'm heading out to replace the coupler right now. I'll time it and let you know how long it takes. 😉 By the way, mine went bad in approximately 25,000 miles, and I don't beat on my car at all. Good design in principle, bad implementation. Thanks again.

[@patricknolan1625]

Finished with my replacement. Took a few minutes over 1 hour, from opening the door to closing the door. If you are here because of the excellent video, but are working on a Veloster (well, the 2012 model anyways), beware of some design differences that WILL make a difference in how you're going to tackle this and the tools that you need. - First, the plastic top steering column cover does not come off completely, due to a "leather" piece that attaches it to the lower portion of the instrument cluster assembly. This was only a minor annoyance to me, not a show stopper. I'm sure that there's an easy way to remove it, but I didn't care to further disassemble it. - I hate to say it, but I DO recommend that you remove the fuse panel (again, this is only my experience on my Veloster). I know, I know, it's additional work and you may not see the value in it, but I assure you that once you see how the steering column comes down, and the angle that it comes to rest at, you'll be very glad that you did this. Plus, it's only 1 bolt, 2 nuts, and about 10 keyed electrical connectors. - THIS IS IMPORTANT. READ ENTIRE BULLET POINT. The column itself is held up by only 2 nuts on the front, and a pain in the a$$ bolt (14mm head) that attaches at the back (above the CPU that's attached to the lower portion) of the steering column. That bolt is a pain to find, and you might have some issues getting your hand AND a wrench in there to loosen it. And, it's TIGHT. I strongly suggest using a 3/8 ratchet at minimum. I was able to squeeze mine in there and crank hard to loosen it. Once you get the bolt out, you pull towards you and it's coming down. Before you remove that bolt, you had better disconnect the electrical connectors on the passenger side of the previously mentioned CPU unit or else the column's weight will be pulling on those connectors and wires. That's NEVER a good idea, so disconnect them. - Here's the point where you're glad you removed the fuse panel. When the column comes down, it twists towards the driver's side of the car (due to how the column is situated and how the weight is distributed), and lays bare all 3 T-30 torx head screws that you need to take out. There were some other, small differences, but nothing that's worth taking up more of your time with. Thanks again to AutomotiveEZ for the great video, and good luck to those of you who undertake this repair. Take your time. Take it easy, don't force anything. And yes, that leftover screw that you're looking at, AFTER you put everything back together again, IS important and can't be chucked into the garbage. 😁 All valuable lessons that I've learned, the hard way, over the years.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Patrick: Thanks very much. Yes, this job is slightly different depending on which chassis / model - but the Plastic Coupler / Bushing and Motor are always the same based on the ones I've worked on. And, I have done SO many on the Sonata, Elantra and their SUV's as well. The main reason I made video - was because I KNOW 100 things do NOT need to be disconnected or removed like I've seen in many videos. After doing this job 30+ yrs., I've learned to streamline Factory Service Procedures. = ]

[@oeight74]

@@AutomotiveEZ In your experience, is a 2013 Elantra as easy to access as the Sonata? I'd love to not have to take everything apart to do this repair.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

oeight74 - They are both very similar! I have done this same job on at least 3 - 4 different Hyundai models. The main thing to watch for is do NOT allow any wires to be yanked or pulled on. That is when you may need to disconnect some harness connectors. If you do not feel comfy with this job find a good mechanic. Most “home” mechanics can follow my video and have a great result. A lot of this job is a pinch of caution and a pinch of common sense. Thx for posting - pls Subscribe. :)

[@chadgrimsley9847]

@Patrick Nolan Thank you for the tips specific to Veloster, they definitely helped! That 14mm bolt is a MF!

[@stuartebanks3297]

I recently did this job and there was a module that was in the way of the three torx motor bolts. My car was an 08 and seen even different steering bolt and bracket configurations! I too can’t understand fuse block removal but I locked my steering and removed the key marked the universal joint and unplugged the accessories and worked on a table! The job was made easier by this to me! It is no way made simpler on all models by leaving the column in the car! I cleaned and lubricated moving parts and inspected other components without the myriad of all the distractions! I just re installed without even coming close to endangering the clock spring! I even discovered that the universal joint was the primary culprit as the plastic insert had shrunk or wore out to some degree! I remedied by a two extra pounds of torque on the single universal bolt! My car had the new car feel ever since! PS Leaving the column in could have lead to missing the lower universal coupler problem!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

stuart ebanks - Hi, there is a genuine Hyundai TSB on the steering motor (MDPS) coupler / bushing that I am replacing in this video. The TSB is seen in my video. They do, in fact, simply wear out and fail. (The coupler) The column universal joint is not related - even though, they too, can fail. Lastly, there is no reason to remove column if the job can be done in vehicle. I’m a professional mechanic for 30+ yrs and working around obstacles is required in my field. Otherwise you’d be fired. We only remove items as required. For example... You don’t take an engine out of a car to replace a valve cover gasket. Thx for your post but I respectfully disagree on column removal unless it’s 100% required and specified in factory repair manual. Thx

[@stuartebanks3297]

AutomotiveEZ actually I believe both should be serviced at the same time because of the obvious overlap in time and no one wants to appear unprofessional by then having re do it in the customers eyes! I have been a mechanic since 1977 and a diy guy since 72 at 12! Not to say I’m right but to say protocol sometimes dictates the removal like cleaning and lubrication and checking bearings and bushings! In the car says I’m just doing this and this only when we know other things could be contributing and makes us look like scammers although we did what we said! I charge for the extra work and do the “extra” work for customer satisfaction and good PR!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

stuart ebanks - I understand your points. Trust me, been doing this forever, since I was 14. So, same as you, since we were teens, basically... I suppose the best thing I can add to your input - is to ‘inspect’ the steering shaft universal joint during the diagnosis phase.. If there is looseness / play or evidence of wear - that can be stated to customer. So therefore, if they agree on a proactive repair strategy, you can likely bundle the two jobs together. That would save the customer labor in long run if both parts are worn. Thanks again Stuart for sharing your thoughts and experiences!

[@chrismechanic6164]

I believe the reason fourth at nine lawn or rubber or urethane spider type gear is simply noise reduction. I guess they couldn't find a way maybe due to limited space it is on a bevel gear or spiral bevel or even a herringbone. It appears they design a straight gear canoeing that if they actually made it to where the teeth mashed it would probably have some sort of noise so the solution was this plastic or urethane inseet that seems to fail quite often. I've got more and more people contact me about doing this job. Like your video by the way very informative.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thanks Chris - I seriously think the main reason for the design was noise suppression and/or vibration and secondly wear. If two metal gears interface with no renewable lubrication then they'd likely be having a worn out column and/or Steering Assist Motor. Thx again

[@Dude408f]

Great video, thank you very much!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thanks. Happy to help!

[@davidpresutti3014]

Good job explanation is very simple

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thx!

[@berlin3577]

Nice and straight forward thanks

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Welcome!

[@souhailshamaissem7564]

Excellent video mate

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thanks so much

[@mitjakopcar9029]

I make it on kia ceed 2010. Later a light of the steering wheel Turn on But went to original service to delete and now no repeat. Thamks for the great video, really helpfull

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Nice work! Thanks for kind words

[@glenndeheus]

It worked on Kia Ceed ?

[@mitjakopcar9029]

@@glenndeheus yes, indeeed

[@manuelpadilla7629]

great video very helpful thanks bro 👍

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thank you. Appreciate it :)

[@denispantle9471]

Great video, wished I watched this one first. When I took the motor housing off, I bumped my column, turning the steering wheel, and the gear studs turned a lot!. I went ahead and replaced the bushing, but now I get EPS error, and no power steering. Guess I'll have to take it to the shop Monday. Grrr.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Hi Denis Pantle - what is your year, make and model?

[@denispantle9471]

@@AutomotiveEZ It is a 2013 Kia Optima.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

@@denispantle9471 The 13 Optima is fairly basic. It is possible, you ONLY need the Steering Angle Sensor recalibrated! That is easy to do with proper scanner / laptop w/ software. HOWEVER - please make sure you did not SIMPLY FORGET TO PLUG SOMETHING BACK IN! You’d be shocked how often I had cars brought to me because a previous mechanic forgot to plug a connector back in or simply did not make sure it was fully snapped and locked back in 100%.. Go check with a good strong light and some fresh - early day eyeballs lol. Not when you’re mad tired or in the dark

[@denispantle9471]

Yeah, thanks for that. I basically retraced my steps today. Dropped the steering column, and put it back in thinking the same thing. Still no go. Everything in place and snapped. Thanks anyway.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

@@denispantle9471 - Denis may be a simple recalibration. It takes 10-15 min on a good scanner. You should be fine if nothing was mechanically damaged or mis aligned. And you are welcome. Thx for the input here

[@donaldhawkes5226]

Great video

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Donald Hawkes - Thx so much. Be well my brother!

[@Jazzinger]

wow you seem to know how to explain it in the right way that women can get some power from that knowledge you share with them that they can use when they have issues about their "Rides" lol. I love my Kia Optima 2011 so much. I love the looks and the lines of it. I feel secure and protected; it (she) even says good bye to me when I put her in park. So my wheel started to do that and being an underpaid teacher I have had to wait for the good omen to arrive to fix it...botton line...I kind of felt some power about how to explain to a mechanic what is happening and knowing enough about it from listening to you the guy can't so easily take me for a fool. So Bro, thanks. Helps me out a lot. Diana ...going to get estimates feeling empowered :-) Also sending this to my brother.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thanks very much :)

[@danielfreeze4394]

Damn good video one thing to add 2014 kia forte i have only has 2 studs and 1 bolt in the back that goes in horizontal in a bracket in a horrible place. Its behind the motor, but you can get to it with a ratchet.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Hey - thx for the reply. I know all about those because I work in a busy shop. Lol… The car in my video was not that style. I’m glad you mentioned it though if it helps someone. One other thing - they have about 3 different spots they put the motor (on column) depending on model. But the coupler / bushing we replace is always same and the motors always seem to have just 3 bolts holding them. Be well!

[@enriquelopez9124]

awesome information & tutorial 👏 👌 👍🏿 😀

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thanks much!

[@stefanos__panagiotou]

Thank you very much!!!!!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

You’re welcome Stefanos

[@bluesriderDF]

I replaced my coupler today, this video was helpful. I wanted to do it your way, but there would've been too much strain on some of the wiring harnesses if I just let the column drop, so I removed what I needed to. I used a 1x4 board from floor to seat and allowed the steering wheel to rest on it so it didn’t completely drop to the floor, because there was some wiring that I didn't want to strain on. The part swap was a little tight, but doable. 187K on my car and surprisingly the coupler didn’t look that bad, hardly any debris. But once everything was back together, I could immediately tell a difference. One tip: when I removed the motor I immediately marked the gear with a marker so if it rotated I could put it back to the original position when reassembling. This eliminated a possible position sensor code. Hardest part was putting the column back in. Even with the metal hook it was difficult to lift it up into place while I was half outside the car and upside down. Mine is all done, no codes, no play, success. About 3 hours because I took my time and the wiring slowed me down. Thanks!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

BluesriderDF - Thanks for feedback. If you read my Vid Description and feedback to viewers I always stress not to let weight of column pull on wires. It is always based on what specific year and model you’re repairing. I am glad it worked out for you! Sounds like you figured out your obstacles. But in end I stress too many guys rip the whole car apart for no reason. I made my video to show a more streamlined process. Thx for watching

[@bluesriderDF]

@@AutomotiveEZ Your video was great, I watched it several times. Def saved me a lot of work! Wife took a drive later, said it feels so much better. Happy wife = Happy life!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

@@bluesriderDF I agree :) Thx!

[@breezywong9863]

Great job explaining the job. I had one question, I had my 2018 Hyundai Sonata sent into repair for replacing the yoke for a clicking sound when I turn rhe wheel 3 days ago. When I picked it up from the repair center my steering wheel was heavy and it sticks when I turn it to the left or right. It never did that before I took it in to repair.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thx for kind words. On your 18 Sonata - I'm not sure what "yoke" you're referring to. Simply, because, in the world of cars and trucks - "yoke" is generic term for "center" of a part - or system. So, if your steering was worked on, the "yoke" (the replaced part) may have been something in the column assembly - or even a steering shaft or coupler. (bearings, rag joints and mini u-joints are all used in steering columns) (most cars today - you just replace entire column as most manufacturers- are not allowing them to be serviced separately due to safety concerns) At any rate - technically speaking, the Rubber / Urethane coupler that is replaced in my video here - is a yoke too - as it's center of steering motor. Bottom line is - if the steering is heavy or binding - the Mechanic may have installed or tightened something incorrectly. (too loose or too tight can cause a binding - as can misaligned parts) You should give that shop at least one try to correct this new concern. If they cannot - try another shop - specifically a shop that does front end work and wheel alignments as they'll understand the steering system better.

[@breezywong9863]

@@AutomotiveEZ ok thank you

[@rmp608]

Thank You!!!!!! Owe you a cold beer!!!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Any time!

[@ahmedkhalifa4537]

God bless you

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thanks so much. Be well!

[@lickitysplit2413]

We bought a brand new 2007 by Sonata and at 65,000 started having the steering wheel "locking" type feeling when one would steer the car. Did some research and found where Hyundai actually put out verbiage that they will warranty replacement of the coupler. Our dealer initially said no it is not under warranty, but I provided documentation showing otherwise and dealer repaired. Basically, Hyundai extended their warranty mileage wise for this coupler issue. Also, according to Hyundai there is an improved replacement coupler they install.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Lickity Split - Sometimes the Manufacturer will extend warranty period for ‘any type’ of premature failure they feel is going to upset customers, etc. However, many extended emissions warranty periods are extended due to Gov Regulation like on a catalyst. Lastly, safety recalls like airbags are mandatory. Recalls obv. are diff from a “warranty”. As far as this part goes it’s generally just a noise / nuisance. But if the part disintegrates 100% you may have a safety issue too, if steering binds. Be well

[@ricardocastro1989]

Omg!! Wish I seen this video. I saw another one and I unplugged stuff everywhere!! Got the issue changed but now I got to get the steering lined up and hooked. But now I got a bunch of stuff to plug back in!! I hope I can get it all but I’m doubting myself. Probably gonna have to have someone else finish the job. Dang!!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Well generally - the less we unplug - the better. I hope you get your car back together

[@john-ch8vd]

Thank you

[@AutomotiveEZ]

You're welcome!

[@stefandebeer6796]

The Santa Fe DM is not so simple, I know your video says Sonata but at the same time all Hyundai & Kia vehicles. On the Santa Fe you need to remove harnesses, brake pedal and accelerator pedal to gain access to the horizontal pivot bolt at the rear. A real pain in the butt but doable!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Yes - Some models vary from model shown in video. Some have the two front studs w/ nuts (13 mm hex head sized nuts) holding column up - and a singular - rear bolt - mounted horizontally as you've described. At the rear bolt there is a tongue and groove support bracket system.. So, column is lifted into groove (tongue part / is part of column) to hold it - then, start rear bolt and leave loose. Lift column in front to secure two nuts - tighten rear pinch bolt lastly.

[@spy8464BB]

The very good looking wife is very happy. Thanks for the info, your video is golden.

[@300ZXCRAZE]

Great video! One question, did you disconnect the steering column at all? Or did you just drop it?

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Giovanny Fonseca - only need to drop it Sir! Thx

[@300ZXCRAZE]

@@AutomotiveEZ thank you sir!

[@gonzaloalvarezjr5252]

Hello, Really enjoyed the video. I was wondering if you had come across or have heard of the 2017 Azera having a "sticky/binding" issue in the steering wheel? I recently purchased a CPO 2017 Azera with 16,400 miles. Didn't feel anything on the test drive around the dealership. On the way home (2 hour drive) I noticed a "sticky" feel when I made slight adjustment to keep car straight. It felt like the wheel was stuck and then when you finally put enough force for it to move it would. It was a constant fight all the way home. Dealership said that it was "normal" for these cars. No way I said. I did some research and found a TSB #20-ST-001H-1 that states if the car has no DTCs and "Sticking/Binding" issue is felt to replace the Column & Housing Assembly (56390-3V460). My car doesn't have any DTCs so I printed information and took it to the dealership that sold me the car. They finally agreed to order the part and install under warranty ( The car has 4 months left). What do you think? Any information would really be appreciated. Keep up the great work and you've got yourself a new subscriber! Thanks!!!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thanks for the nice words - It can definitely be in column or column u-joints but would be unusual with such low mileage!

[@who8dapple]

I have a 2010 Soul Sport with 127k on the clock. Vehicle developed a steering twitch after a curveside collision (R front wheel). The impact was strong enough to bend the (R) tie rod end and front strut. Replaced both tie rod ends and both struts. Had new tires installed and a 4 wheel alignment. Soon after, the steering twitches occurred whenever going over certain bumps, road gaps or ruts. I returned to the same tire center and explained what was happening. The same 2 technicians double checked the alignment (20-25 minutes) as well as checking the wheel bearings for wear. They couldn't find anything under the car that could cause the steering twitch, so I went ahead to check the steering coupler! Well, after dropping the steering column and having a clear view of the steering shaft assembly. I was unable to locate nor could see what even resembles that steering assist module! There was nothing but the steering shaft, a U joint connected to another shaft leading to the fire wall. After several minutes trying to locate where that rubber coupler could go, I simply reassembled the steering column/lower dash. Any ideas or thoughts why my 2010 Sport would not have that steering assist module under the dash? Thanks in advance!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Sorry for not getting back sooner - you may have hydraulic steering if there is no motor on column - also - some vehicles even have the electric motor on Rack under car. Anyway the steering twitch should not be from this bushing. You may have a bent wheel or shifted tire belt if front end is not loose and alignment is ok

[@who8dapple]

@@AutomotiveEZ what’s the chance that rack and pinion is in need of replacement? The twitching happens when hitting bumps and cracks on the roadway, but always manages to straighten itself out!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

@@who8dapple Generally a rack can never cause a “twitch” - even with loose tie rods. Technically - a twitch in steering is wheel rocking left to right all by itself while in motion. Most often that is bent wheel or bad tire with shifted belt. Not the rack itself - with ONE EXCEPTION. If the rack to subframe bushings or clamps are worn or loose - the Rack can physically move around resulting in a similar twitch type situation

[@who8dapple]

@@AutomotiveEZ well the worst it got, the easier it was to identify! Bad lower control arm and ball joint assembly on the passenger side. Located a lifetime warranty part at O’Reilly’s for $73. It took me a little over an 1hr to dissemble and replace. She’s running smooth and safe again

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Hello - I did mention in past reply your vehicle may have hydraulic steering - so would not have a module / motor or the coupler if it the hydraulic system

[@thebadkyle]

Great video. I am almost done with mine. I have a question for you. There are 2 nuts and 2 bolts that hold the column in place. Let's say hypothetically one of the nuts fucked off into another dimension. I was using an impact, it spun a little coming off.... and now its gone. Do you know what size I need to get to replace it?

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Hey Kyle - Please realize I shot and posted this video awhile ago! So, it's not fresh in my mind. However I'm pretty darn sure the two nuts & bolts are a 10mm thread diameter and a 12mm hex head size. The thread diameter is the actual bolt size and the head / hex diameter is the part of fastener a socket or wrench goes on to remove it. Anyway, when you shop for fasteners you ONLY need the THREAD SIZE and PITCH too - as that IS THE ACTUAL size of the fastener. Here is a simple trick. Take an open or box 10mm wrench and see if you can slip it over the stud that holds column. (since two are studs). Or if you have a bolt out -try to slide wrench over threaded part of bolt. If wrench fits very snug or is real close - it's a 10mm. (it's def metric too not standard) I know it's not an 8 or a 12mm. But just confirm this... If it's a 10mm you'll need either a 10mm x 1.25 pitch or a 10 x 1.50. Why? Because I know for sure those are NOT fine pitch fasteners. The 10mm part would be the diameter and the 1.25 or 1.50 is pitch aka - thread spacing. You can even take one of the fasteners you have and just see what screws on at hardware store. Use a flat washer too because factory nut is a FLANGE NUT - so washer is built in. The proper way to measure the bolt is really to use a caliper / micrometer. But wrench trick is great for home mechanic lol. Best of luck.

[@namershammari2561]

Hi thank you for the most useful vedio .. I have KIA soil 2017 and the problem is knocking voice in the steering wheel and I thought its the same issue, after watched this video. Please how can I make sure that the coupler is the same size ?

[@AutomotiveEZ]

namer shammari - Hello Sir. There is only one part # (to my knowledge - that is) for this Rubber / Urethane Coupler. Looks like a rubber gear lol. But is a coupler / bushing as far as Hyundai / Kia are concerned. Technically that is correct. Anyway just call a dealer for part. It is inexpensive

[@Benny46drift]

I really like how to correct everything you say because you just know some dickhead in the comments will be like "It's Rubber, you don't know anything" type of shit comment people write... I am about to do this job right now and this is going to have help massively, thanks!

[@Benny46drift]

I gave up... got everything off but on the i40 there is a pivot bolt on the column and some bracket in the way

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thx Benny. I know what you mean. BTW - the pinch bolt style is a little harder but is doable even at home. Easy way is to remove module on column that is a bit in way of pinch bolt

[@tonyt1554]

@AutomotiveEZ Have you had any of these that feel like it slightly binds while clicking? The one I'm working on feels like a steering column that's trying to lock when the wheel is at 12 o'clock position.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

They sure do bind up. They get loose and then tight and they pop and bind. Not unusual

[@Peppermint1]

Was there a knee airbag on this car? My 2015 Sonata has one right under the column, with a nasty to remove connector - definitely disconnect car battery 15 minutes ahead

[@AutomotiveEZ]

My vehicle had no knee bags. However I’m familiar. If you have those bags definitely disconnect battery and follow manufacturer suggestions on time lapse before terminal disconnection. Hope this helps. Thanks

[@mickm7422]

Just fixed my girlfriend's i30... $18 instead of $600+. She was very great full... A couple of times. I owe you a beer.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thanks and wish I could grab that beer off my computer screen - but that technology is not out yet... lol :P Appreciate the kind words my man. Be well.

[@songforguy1]

Did you find it much the same thing as the sonata? My girlfriends car is i30 2011 model

[@mickm7422]

@@songforguy1 it was pretty dam similar. Hers was a 2013 i30 I did it without removing the dash, but it was a fiddly as f*@k job and I wish I had more joints in my hands... But totally doable and only took an hour or so.

[@songforguy1]

@@mickm7422 thanks for replying mate, I'll give it a go!

[@gabrielleworld9201]

Just saw in comments are you in NJ! Having this same problem with my Kia 2013. Any chance you are close to Cumberland county???

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Pretty far from there lol.. but yes nj here

[@bobrueland]

My son's 2015 Veloster is doing the same thing. I'm going to try to do this myself but is the steering column removal basically the same for Veloster as the Sonata? I've seen other videos on KZbin and like everyone is saying, they're disconnecting everything, so if I don't need to do all that, that would save a lot of time and hassle.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Hi Gary - the basic layout is the same. Unfortunately you have to play by ear. First thing is to get lower trim / knee panels off and plastic column covers off. So as to assess the mounting bolt / nut and wiring situation. More often then not, I don’t remove much wiring at all. Let me know if any questions :)

[@kevincarbone3460]

Hey, I did this, thanks for your help. One question - my steering wheel is not aligned correctly….. how would I get it back to normal? It’s slightly to the right, at the 1 o’clock position. Thanks. It’s a 2014 Kia Forte.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thanks. If the wheel is crooked go get a Wheel Alignment at a trustworthy shop in your area. Not all shops have an alignment rack. Or - qualified ppl that are trained in alignments - so do some research online in your area. Ask them to check steering and suspension for looseness first. Loose / worn parts must be replaced before the Alignment can be performed

[@Koup_TV_]

meanwhile some dudes taking off the steering wheel. disconnecting all the steering functions. removing the fuse box... why? This video takes you straight to the point. No need for all of that

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Thx very much

[@markdavis2701]

Perfect video. I'm second owner so of course it isn't covered and going to have to try this out myself. 1 question... At the same time I noticed the side to side clunking I also noticed there is a vibrating/rattling sound coming from under the steering wheel. Any idea of the two are related? Just weird to me that it happened at the same time. I have no issues with ball joints, shocks/struts, steering wheel(drives straight) so not sure what the sound is. It only occurs sometimes when I drive over rocking road and but not when I hit dips. Sounds to me like there is something loose underneath and just banging around. Either way appreciate the video.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Hi Mark. Does not matter if you are the 10th owner. The manufacturer warranty never expires unless the vehicle is modified or is a classified insurance wreck. Like a flood or fire or major collision. Call Hyundai dealer to see if the factory warranty is still active buddy

[@markdavis2701]

@@AutomotiveEZ Ya, I had called my local dealer before I posted my comment and they said it's only covered for first owner then for some reason continued to ask the mileage and said there is nothing currently covered. I doubt it makes a difference but my car is actually a Kia Optima not a Hyundai... I guess I will have to give their consumer affairs line a call tomorrow. Appreciate the fast response tho.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

@@markdavis2701 - Look into it Mark. Manufacturer warranties do not just cover one owner. I’ve been in the business over 30 yrs. Never heard of such a thing

[@markdavis2701]

@@AutomotiveEZ You were 100% correct. I contacted the consumer affairs department and was informed they updated the 5yr/50,000 warranty to a 10 year unlimited mile warranty on the steering coupler(Motor Driven Power Steering) that applies to anyone who owns the vehicle(not just original purchaser). They were surprised to hear I was told by the dealer that I was not covered. They even emailed me a Customer Satisfaction/Warranty Extension Program letter with all the information included. I purchased the part already but luckily it was only $10. Thanks for the reply or I might not have bothered to contact the customer support department. Hopefully others will see this small thread.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

@@markdavis2701 - Mark glad to help. Thx so much for your input. And yes - I agree. Hopefully this helps others. Be well!

[@tanner90080]

Hi automotiveEZ! So our 2017 sonata has a issue where the electric steering fails and throws a code saying it the steering angle sensor, traction control light and steering wheel light come on and loses power to the steering wheel. The issue is that I don’t have play in the wheel itself and when I turn my wheels to the left if get a grinding clunk/clank noise that I suspected was the left driver side axel so replaced that but was not the issue. When turning left at slow speeds or while idling it makes this sound clunk/clank. Any idea to what it could be? I’ve taken it in 2x now with the macanic not knowing what it is. Note: the angle sensor has only done it twice with throwing a code and losing the electric steering but even without the code being active or even after reset by mechanic still has this clunk and clank sound. Side note the ball joint was fine when inspecting.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Hello there. Any clunk or clank in the front end - means you have loose - worn or damaged parts. The VERY LAST THING YOU DO - Is calibrate steering angle sensor. Find a GOOD MECHANIC to diagnose the noise and repair it. Then - go to a shop that does Wheel Alignments. Have it set with new parts installed - then you do the Steering Angle recalibration last. Most Alignment shops can do that for you after the front end is all aligned correctly

[@antaresVJ]

Tried this today and took me 4 hrs. Hardest part is mounting the steering column back up. It weighs a ton

[@antaresVJ]

i disconnected all the harnesses which is why it took so long

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Agreed.. It's a bit heavy. I just have been doing this stuff so long, I've built up some strength over time

[@zacharymurdock6721]

Does the Kia Sportage SL (2011-2015) have the steering coupler? My wife’s 2011 Kia Sportage Sx has play in the steering and i believe the coupler is the culprit, if it has one, im pretty sure it does but I can’t find any info on replacing it online, or through Mitchell, or identifix! Im a mechanic, and there’s no play in the suspension/steering components, it has brand new tires, and i just performed an alignment on it, and it still has play in the steering wheel going down the road.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

2011 can have either system - full electric or hydraulic - look under hood for ps pump and fluid reservoir to determine

[@MrPilsburydopeboi]

I just did this job today but the hook that helps to assist in re-installing will not go into the slot. As a result, I'm only able to put the front two mounting bolts for the steering column in but the back two (the longer ones) will not thread.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Hi Casey. The hook WILL go in with the proper visual / physical geometry. It needs to hook and drop back and column swings up. DO NOT DRIVE it with only 2 fasteners. If the job seems to difficult you should call a professional mechanic. Safety is always first. Trust me - unless that hook is bent - it will drop in as designed

[@vincepena6308]

I'm confused at 7:24 about the Steering Inclination sensor talk. Your saying once the new coupler is installed, do not turn the steering wheel until everything is back into place?

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Hi Vince. I never had to calibrate one of these yet during this job.. I’m just saying that many vehicles use strg. angle sensors. So, when the motor is unbolted just don’t turn the strg wheel or inner steel gears if possible. That’s just a precautionary. I don’t feel it’s an issue on this specific bushing repair. Thx

[@allisonhubbard3007]

This took me almost 2 hours the first time and 30-40 everytime after

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Allison Hubbard - Great. Experience will do that :)

[@tylerolson3244]

I've watched other videos on this and they must have unplugged 20 wiring harnesses. Do you unplug any at all?

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Tyler Olson Hey Buddy. Nope! The only wires disconnected on this Sonata were for the knee area “beauty panel” as it contains various switches. You will see those wire connectors in my video. BE AWARE this system is in other Hyundai products and every chassis is different! So this job may be harder on say an SUV or Elantra. If you are stretching a harness when lowering column just unplug it! Disconnect battery before anything :)

[@tylerolson3244]

Nope it is a Sonata just like that. Only difference might be is that mine uses a fab. I'll take a look to see if there is any connection I need to remove before dropping the column. Thank you so much for the reply.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Tyler Olson You’re welcome! PS - I saw a video where the guy removed the driver seat and 100 wire connectors. Waste of time. Some ppl are nuts lol

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Tyler Olson PSS - don’t forget to remove left side dash side panel (snaps on and off) to access two hidden phillip screws to remove knee bolster beauty panel. The other 2 screws are underneath in plain view. This is the panel w/ all the switches and electrical connections to be removed

[@leaped_5406]

Hey i came across your video finding a solution for a 2011 kia optima with violent noise rattling coming from the steering wheel. Especially when bumps are hit on the road or just driving in the drive way. Not sure if this might be the solution but will continue to look into it.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

You should have a good mechanic check it out! i never saw this bushing failure cause major issues - just a clunk

[@leaped_5406]

@@AutomotiveEZ all good, I managed to do it on my own. If I got lost I just took a breather and watched your vid a bit and continued, took 2 hours but man that steering wheel is no joke. You made it look light brotha.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

@@leaped_5406 Buddy glad the video was of some help and glad you got it done. Cars are always a pain in the ass.. But, I do this for a living for over 30 yrs. The experience is why I can make it look a bit easy.. Anyway, be well!

[@Mr.Grease]

When I try to take the long bolt out of the back it hits a sensor and won't come all the way out. Looks like a cruze control actuator it's hitting.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Did you lower the entire column down?

[@TheLinaChen]

Hi! Does the hook have to go into the window? Mine is having a hard time going into the designed window. Also, I came across two issues-1 is that one of the three screws that we had to take out from The motor broke inside and I cannot screw the third screw AND the one of the bolts that hold the steering column goes in, but does not completely go in. Would I have to get these parts replaced?

[@TheLinaChen]

Any help would be appreciated! Thank you!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

LoveLina - I suggest towing it to a garage or getting a very mechanically inclined friend to help you. I say this with NO offense. I say this respectfully - it sounds like this job is not going well for you. It’s not a hard job but can become difficult for someone not mechanically inclined. The hook has to go into it’s receptacle because otherwise the column will not line up or sit flush and you can strip the mounting hardware. As for the motor bolt - if you stripped it or it broke off, you need a skilled mechanic to repair it. I can do all these things but obviously not thru the computer. I just think - if things are going badly for you - get a professional to help, BEFORE more damage is created. I hope this helps you!

[@TheLinaChen]

AutomotiveEZ hi no offense taken at all. I’m thankful you were able to respond to me so quickly. I appreciate your video and thank you so much for everything!

[@AutomotiveEZ]

LoveLina - It’s no problem and if you have any further questions let me know. Best of luck to you!

[@mitjakopcar9029]

in really hope it will be as simple on Kia Ceed 2010. I will post comment later :-)

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Fingers crossed! lol

[@mitjakopcar9029]

@@AutomotiveEZ chirurging fingers cross, But made it. Without yours video woudn't do this 👌😅

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Sounds good!

[@ShubhamMadke]

I am facing the issue of occasional left pulling in Hyundai Elantra after calibrating the steering angle sensor as well, it is any symptom of bad flexible coupling..

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Hi Shubham. The Steering Angle Sensor and the Coupling - neither of them can cause a pull. You need to check front end for worn parts or binding. The tires need checking too as they can cause a pull just like a binding or worn front end part. If all tests well then have the alignment checked

[@MrThegenral1]

Is it the same procedure for a uk spec 2008 Hyundai i30 2.0 diesel manual?

[@AutomotiveEZ]

I live in USA so I cannot answer that question accurately

[@emineric]

Will this process work on a 2014 Santa fe? Just want to be sure before tackling it.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Emineric - Hey there! Sorry for long response time. Have been busy. This should work if your Hyundai has Electric power steering. Then, you have a motor. (if there is a power steering pump under-hood you do not have this system) I believe yours has it - but the truck column is harder to deal with than the cars - generally speaking. Also - the Santa fe came w/ 3 different engine options and can be FWD or AWD. I feel like you should consult with a professional mechanic first! Especially because this coupler issue was not common anymore - by 2014 and above. Have it diagnosed by a pro. Be well!

[@leannealthouse345]

Heh will this work on a 2015 Kia Sorento LX dealership telling me they don’t have a coupler even to purchase. Got one for a 2014 Sorento off Amazon?!? But now worried wont fit

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Leanne Althouse - Hi.. from what I read - Kia issued a TSB and extended the warranty period - for the faulty coupler - but it was never a recall. According to Kia - the vehicles with this issue were built between 2009-2014. So if you have a ‘15 you likely do not have this issue! My best advice is to see a Dealer or a good private mechanic to diagnose your steering symptoms. I’d imagine Kia either completely redesigned the coupling or a NEWER Motor design may not even use the coupling any longer. That may explain why the dealer can’t find you one for a 2015

[@enriquelopez9124]

I have a 2014 Hyundai Elantra with almost 98,000 miles it still has not gotten there yet , the car you can drive even if the steering wheel is sometimes is like if it did not have power steering the noise it is in the front not inside the car my question is can it be something else since you can still drive it the light for abs, steering wheel and ! Is on and the skidding control is also on

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Hey there buddy. Have a GOOD SHOP check it out. Diagnosing in person is important. I cannot diagnose a vehicle over phone. But a clunk outside can be loose front end parts like a control arm or sway bar link. Have a good mechanic take a look - the lights on dash for abs and all can be a bad sensor or worn out parts that cause looseness in front end etc

[@enriquelopez9124]

@@AutomotiveEZ That is exactly what I am thinking also the car except for that rides beautiful for an almost 98,000 mile car

[@AutomotiveEZ]

@@enriquelopez9124 - I believe it rides well. Best of luck to ya buddy. Have a good mechanic check front end. Make sure nothing is loose or worn :)

[@KeithChinmisterluh73]

great vid. however I'm working on a Santa Fe and there's no "hook" to drop the column down. or at least i can't see one. can anyone help please!?

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Keith Chin - there is no guarantee that there is a hook. However all the one’s I did have a hook. It holds the column UP when the bolts are out. If the bolts are out and the column won’t drop you have to pull the column up and back towards seat to dislodge the hook from it’s window

[@KeithChinmisterluh73]

@@AutomotiveEZ thanks. i figured it out. there's a bracket and a bolt instead on my Santa Fe. I posted a vid of it for reference.

[@sergeiuspenski7599]

Thank you so much. Could please give a OEM part number a rubber thing)thanks

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Sergei Uspenski - Hey there. Just call dealer and ask for rubber bushing (gear) for MDPS (power steering) Electric Motor! Best to go by VIN NUMBER / Application

[@sergeiuspenski7599]

@@AutomotiveEZ Thank you! Good luck in your channel)

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Sergei Uspenski - Thanks very much!

[@chucks924]

I just called the dealer about this issue before finding out they suspect the flex coupler (2013 Kia Optima Hybrid). They informed me the warranty was extended on this part (car is around 70,000 miles), so I'm expecting to get the fix for free. I'll comment back if I get the run-around.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Would be awesome if they cover it

[@chucks924]

@@AutomotiveEZ They did.

[@AutomotiveEZ]

@@chucks924 that is great news - be well :)

[@Theundisputedtruth]

Nice video I can't get my bottom , bolts to hold in bottom half of the steering column lined up any advice anybody ?? Thus repair is all column pretty much

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Do you have two studs with nuts and two bolts on your column? There are various configurations

[@sergiocrosby6163]

I did the same but now my power steering got hard as heck i dont know what happened but i had already disconnected everything i hadnt seen you video till now

[@AutomotiveEZ]

Hi Sergio. Perhaps you should bring it to a good shop at this point? If you’re not sure what’s wrong, that is.. Unfortunately, I can’t help without seeing the car first-hand. It’s possible you could have pinched the new bushing and the motor is binding. Or perhaps an electrical connector was pulled apart unintentionally. Hope this helps!

[@sergiocrosby6163]

@@AutomotiveEZ thanks i put the plasic part in but i think i disconnected something from one of the connectors thanks im going to check that

[@laizyksniega]

I have kia proceed 2010 model. And it has clunk noise when moving steering wheel. Also it feels like steering is a bit loose..is that belongs to the same problem? And is the rubber part are the same for all the models? Thanks

[@AutomotiveEZ]

I feel you need to have it checked locally by a professional. Sounds like you have too many symptoms. The rubber / urethane bushing is generally just a clunk at base of column and is obvious. If you have hydraulic steering (non electric) you won’t have the motor and bushing anyway

[@cooldestroyer1337]

Is it normal for it to still make a little bit of noise when turning the wheel? I hope I didn't damage it as I accidently let it drop kind of hard onto the floor when trying to pull out the column. I made sure to clean the residue from the previous coupler but I couldn't get it all out some there is still some debris left in there. Is there something I did wrong? Maybe it needs to break in? I also did not do that trick you did with the motor to get it to sit nicely as I felt that wasn't necessary

[@AutomotiveEZ]

If the motor does not sit down easily and perfectly flush - and you run the bolts in - the new coupler may be damaged / torn etc - as it is a soft material as compared to the steel gears it sits between

[@cooldestroyer1337]

@@AutomotiveEZ Thank you for the fast response. Ill take a look again and make sure it sits nice because I remember forcing it on with the torx screws. Maybe thats why Im still hearing a noise. Hopefully I didn't tear the new one

[@AutomotiveEZ]

@@cooldestroyer1337 You’re welcome. If the new coupler / bushing got beat up or torn get another. They are cheap. $4-8 cost on average at this time. The motor has to drop like butter. And if old material was deposited in column bowl from old coupler - scrape it out with a small screwdriver or pick. Use Isopropyl alco hol too - on lint free rag to break up and clean old rubber out of cavity