Hyundai Sonata: Keeps Blowing A/C Fuse

[@SouthMainAuto]

*E-Z Red KWP2 Kiwi Plier Two Piece Set- Includes 6" Short Nose and 8" Long Nose Kiwi Pliers: amzn.to/2stF8q2 *Amp Clamps & U-Test Kit: AES Wave Automotive Diagnostic Tools: www.aeswave.com/cart.php?m=affiliate_go&affiliateID=2525b91fc8e906e8215984074c9d9e8f&go=

[@byrysh]

looks like a kiwi bird...www.doc.govt.nz/nature/native-animals/birds/birds-a-z/kiwi/

[@craig28c]

Yep, that tool looks like our native bird from little old New Zealand (paradise down under)

[@chrismoore7557]

Your cart link isn't working for the amp clamp & test kit. Great video

[@aussiebloke609]

+Craig Hughes The planet's bonus track. :-)

[@jonathanbarr6428]

South Main Auto Repair Random question. Will that clamp work with a modi’s ultra? It has a 2 channel scope.

[@63256325N]

Kiwi is a bird with a bill that looks similar to the pliers. Thanks for sharing the knowledge! Funny seeing the young fellow with his hair combed like that. It's the same way I combed mine well over 50 years ago. Interesting how styles come full circle.

[@VWWRENCHIE]

Another AC repaired by one of the coolest repair guys on the internet.Way to go Eric O!

[@sharedknowledge6640]

Sustaining 13 amps for a while on a 10 amp fuse is to be expected. If you're curious look up fuse data sheets from fuse manufactures. They show graphs of overload currents vs time to blow. So what you showed is exactly what I'd expect.

[@ozzstars_cars]

I brought myself here. Excellent explanation Eric on your thought process for a proper diagnosis!

[@garysgarage3669]

Your videos are best on the web. I do see you get some thumbs down and I am very curious why they don't like your videos. Have they ever left any comments to why they gave you a thumbs down? I can't see anything you could do different to make them better. Thanks Gary

[@ALZ2526]

Good diagnosis 26 years HVAC tech love watching your videos.

[@Sandbag1300]

Gavin, Evan, and Trinity all have looks, brains, and heart. Better have that talk with them early and often. Excellent diagnosis and thumbs up video.

[@seftonplayer32]

My man, I am so glad I found your channel. Electrical diagnosis has always been a weak point with me, but the way you go through and explain it makes it seem so simple. Because of my experience I picked the compressor straight away when you said it took some time for the fuse to blow, but looking at the graph and seeing the amperage being that high sort of makes it even clearer in my head of why it is doing it. I will definitely keep watching your channel and hopefully get better at this type of work. I plan on starting my own mobile mechanic business soon and because I specialize in Toyota and Lexus I was a bit hesitant to branch out into all models. Mechanical work comes easy to me but the diag is where I need more practice and training.

[@ASEWorldClassTech]

I ordered those Kiwi Pliers about 4 hours before i came here. I went on Google and this video came up in a search result for them. Fancy Vantage Pro you got there Eric lol. I'm stuck with a hacked Modis that is behind on updates but just use it for the 4CH scope. But if I really wanna get into any computer I have a pretty neat Autel Tablet...

[@andrewwilson4696]

I swear you hit it right on the head I was just asking where can I get those pliers thank u bro

[@trentputnam2341]

Love your quality breakdown on every repair you do, really wish every shop had your skills and knowledge... Eric O. for president! Make America's cars great again!

[@wyattoneable]

It's nice when the customer is easy to work with. Love these diag videos.

[@comingundone27]

How does he get thumbs down on his videos. All methods are tested. I love this channel.

[@toyotatechMDT]

I find typically, an automotive fuse will blow at twice it’s rating with a dead short. It will blow 50% over rating with an overload, like you experienced. 14A is right on the money. Nice video Mr O. Looking at how the fuse blows gives you some clues. Burnt and destroyed, dead short. If it looks more melted than exploded, overload. Just my experience. 👍🏻

[@trainer2018]

I had a similar issue with the same type of circuit you diagnosed but it was on a bus of course,lol. Had a TK Intellegaire 1 unit that would blow the clutch fuse after about 5 minutes of operation and just like with yours the coil current would build over time and then blow the fuse. However in my case it was not the coil that was drawing too much current I had a frayed and corroded wire that was touching the frame of the bus and acting like another load in parallel, so when you turned on the circuit it would draw more current and then it would take about 5 minutes to blow the breaker due to the length of the harness. The harness was about 20 ft long, so it took a bit to build the extra heat to blow the breaker. From my experience when you have a short to ground if the fuse blows immediately the problem is close by and if it takes longer the issue is further down stream. Good job Eric.🙂 I also saw your article in Motor Age, very good. You should put some material together and submit to some trade shows and instruct, the industry needs more Techs like you being involved. Have a good day my friend.🙂

[@mikechiodetti6737]

Great Video. The A/C is up and running! Beware of offshore 10 amp fuses! My old Fluke 87 has a 10 amp max current measurement, has an EXPENSIVE 15 Amp slow blow fuse. Use an inline 10 amp fuse in its own holder with plug in ends. Better to blow a regular 10 amp mini fuse than an EXPENSIVE 15 Amp slo blow fuse AND the meter!

[@davidwilliams4645]

great call on the a/c compressor i would have drawn the same conclusion myself keep these great videos coming

[@TheShop10]

Very educational Eric. This was a great one. You should have your own TV show. Best channel on KZbin.

[@fieldsofomagh]

The labscope comes in handy for a lot of faults and really shines in time v voltage or amps. Job well done.

[@HayabusaRydr]

They make several different types of fuses. Some have a buffer built in and some are considered slow blow which is what i used to use in audio competitions back in the day. Just a bit of info i can give you Eric since you give us so much

[@livingmaga6299]

Easy money sir and easy customer to deal with. You can't ask for anything more.

[@EldoonNemar]

thank you for drawing on the wire diagram. I have a hard time following you with those, generally. made it much easier.

[@spelunkerd]

On other AC videos I've seen, some -trolls- people who have AC training leave sarcastic remarks when compressors are changed without swapping the receiver/dryer, seals, and flushing the system. None here today, and I know you did it this way to save the customer a lot more money. Given that the compressor wasn't bad, there shouldn't be any problem, though the warranty might be an issue if the compressor fails early. In the past, I've tried to avoid replacing the compressor by just swapping the coil, but it was a humbling surprise to see how difficult it can be to find the right part! Coils evidently come in many flavors, and you need the exact fit if you want to swap just the coil. As always, thank you for showing a clear, simple, fast diagnostic approach.

[@ne2i]

When the compressor still works (didnt grenade) in the system, you can get away with just changing the compressor. This was just a clutch issue.

[@Blazer02LS]

Not an issue to swap just the compressor IF it isn't a failed compressor. In this case it was just the clutch. If it is an internal compressor failure you need to flush the system to remove any metal or material that came from the bad compressor and replace the parts that will have captured the same bits but cannot be flushed reliably.

[@billbord3205]

Always a very good watch no matter how mundane sounding the subject may be ,don’t you think

[@johnralston5818]

... another great video Eric.... which serves to appreciate people like you ;) & remember: if you can do it, those of us who spent 1/2 of your video wondering what it all means STILL ain't got a clue ;) my question: do you enjoy making us look like fools while STILL enjoying your videos ?... ehhh... Thanks anyway.

[@Eric_the_Hiking]

Those pliers are called kiwi because they look like a kiwi bird.

[@NZdiagnostics]

Spot on! Also, hello from New Zealand!

[@the3rdbestnikkashopinyoura540]

Crikey!

[@splatmanhooha4264]

Yep, the old flightless Kiwi , quite a symbol of New Zealand, hence we in the UK call New Zealanders Kiwi's

[@Micko350]

Lar Ada-Koski crikey is a synonym Steve Irwin frequently used, Australian, NOT KIWI!

[@the3rdbestnikkashopinyoura540]

Blimey!

[@HandyMike78]

I'm sure the best part of your day is having ur family in the shop!

[@tracydiller4492]

Great video Dr.O nice to see you do a diagnostic instead of wiggling wiring harnesses but, then again you have been doing this long enough that you know.Keepmthose videos coming and have a great day.PEACE.

[@workingshlub8861]

nice job eric...same thing we do here at work when tenant calls and says A/C only blows cold for an hour etc.. throw amp clamp on compressor breaker ..sometimes they will the main breaker for the entire apartment and pull 60-70 amps when the coils on compressor goes bad.

[@bobmoy3406]

Internal short in the field winding. Great video as always. Also thanks for the link to the Kiwi Plier.

[@aaronphx420]

I would’ve been looking for a short on the wire, thank you Eric for showing me this neat trick. Great call BTW.

[@davidgoldberg]

That test equipment looks handy. Nice work Dr. O!

[@JPilot2]

G'day, Mr. O! Great job! I enjoyed the video! Another, thumps up on why the 'Hyundai Sonata' kept blowing it's own "Air Con" fuse! Well done! Cheers! 😊✌🏼❤️

[@JoelAutomotiveInaction]

nice job thanks for sharing , Eric the fuse blown base on amount on time of temperature(heat pops the fuse) that of course will count amps are above rating .

[@peterreed175]

Love the video Eric. You explain it well and answer my questions before i ask them and annoy you! lol. Good stuff.

[@chinookhelomech4059]

Most electrical components fail due to a heat load. Fuel pumps, switches, relays, electrical sending units. They will either become faulty intermittently or just crap out when the weather gets hot, or when the engine bay or area they are in gets really hot. Heat puts stress on them and the ones that are weak or have become worn down from use will die. Good troubleshooting job SMA.

[@Wes_9519]

I had a blue bird bus with 2 inside units and a giant a/c compressor awhile back that the clutch just completely shorted out and caught on fire. The customer complaint was a battery light and no a/c.... after checking everything I recommended replacing the entire compressor due to a now seeping front seal from the fire but at $15,000 for a new one they opted for just a clutch. Oh and the system held 19 lbs of r134a

[@fredshead7114]

Hi Eric, I had occasion to do exactly as this video last week, I know I am retired but I cant help sticking my nose in sometimes, this one blew a/c fuses without the engine running, the funny thing is I think they fitted two Patten pumps and it done the same....I said well has anyone measured the resistance of the clutch winding.....no lol, I measured it and in both cases it was 0.9 to 1 ohm, practically a dead short, so as you did I reasoned out by ohms law it was drawing about 12 to 15 amps through a 10 amp fuse, so it blew, you cant break the laws of physics Eric, I think they got over it by putting one on that had about 3ohms resistance...cheers great video yet again...from Fred in England.

[@KCautodoctor]

That 10A ATO fuse operated exactly as designed. Per Littlefuse (the manufacturer) that 10A sized fuse is designed to keep passing 110% rated current constantly for a minimum of 100 hours. At 135% rated current constantly for a minimum of 0.750 seconds & maximum of 600 seconds. At 160% rated current constantly for a minimum of 250 milliseconds & maximum of 50 seconds. At 200% rated current constantly for a minimum of 150 milliseconds & maximum of 5 seconds. There is also a Temperature Rerating Curve, but that will not impact the test results shown in this video. Every fuse size & design has specific fuse testing data provided by the manufacturer - do not expect every size fuse to operate the exact same way from different manufacturers.

[@paulcarroll750]

I love sma. I would be heartbroken if eric stopped making videos.

[@ColeTanner88]

Good video and good representation of a real world problem/diagnostics. Will be subscribing

[@jdean399]

I love it when you get a smidge nerdy ! Great video Eric, it brings out the nerd in me

[@wysetech2000]

Smart testing methods and best choice for repair.

[@LightsOutPredatorRemoval]

From tech to tech. Good diagnosis. Most people would be lost. Or throw parts at it or look for a broken wire, short to ground ect ect.

[@FireEye-zd4fm]

If you take a look at the datasheet of slow acting fuses, they can take the rated current almost forever. 1.5 x rated: 1h 2.1 x rated: 2min 2.75 x rated: 400ms - 10s 4 x rated: 150ms - 3s 10 x rated: 20ms - 150ms

[@williambell9068]

One thing I was taught with glass fuses was if the link was just melted in 2 it was an overload, if there was smoke and or spatter on the glass it was a short circuit indicator. I would assume as I did when you showed the first fuse you removed that it was a clear break and a overload melt. Just something i always look for.

[@noelhernandez5016]

Great video Eric O. I have seen this issue before and turn out to be the magnetic coil of the clutch. Hyundai does sell the part by its self and is easy to swap out.

[@5084204]

Correct. It's about 80USD, genuine part straight from Korea.

[@beauhatman4395]

Eric addressed this issue in the video. You're gonna have to pull the compressor to change the coil, anyway. Eric mentioned the car/compressor was 11 years old. He also mentioned the customer made the "right" choice. Why evacuate the system, pull the compressor, change the coil, put the old, used, 11 yr old compressor back in? Really doesn't make sense. Kinda like needing a new throwout bearing, tear the transmission out, change the bearing, put the old clutch and pressure plate back in. As the saying goes: "while you're in there........" Although, in the end, totally up to the customer. I'm with Eric on this one.

[@optical345]

Hey Eric, check out the current-time characteristics of automotive fuses sometime. A 10A MINI Blade fuse from Littelfuse could take up to 600 seconds at 13.5A to open! Take care!

[@clintdouble-u9564]

I see I'm not the first to liken the shape of the Pliers to the Kiwi, a flightless bird local to us in New Zealand :) Clint

[@richardspees841]

Just FYI, but others have mentioned the time-current characteristics, but if you Google "littelfuse automotive fuse information" and then click in the mini fuse entry and then on the datasheet, you can see the time-current characteristics. At 135% (13.5A on a 10A fuse) the minimum time to open is 0.75 seconds, and the maximum is 120 seconds (2 minutes). As has been said, this is common operation for these fuses. Circuit breakers have similar time-current characteristics. (I just used 12 Volt for the calculation above for convenience)

[@rscelectrical7091]

Nothing wrong with your fuses, it's 10a rated but will hold an up to 50% overload for a period of time specified by the manufacturer.

[@KSSilenceAU]

This, Fuses and Breakers take time in a minor overload situation to blow. If the overload is very minor, say 10% it could take an hour for it to blow, which is perfectly normal.

[@paulmoir4452]

The Littelfuse datasheet suggests it'll hold 13A for practically ever. But at 15 amps it'll probably blow in about 3 seconds.

[@rscelectrical7091]

Paul Moir : LittleFuse data is normally pretty accurate. Sadly like tech's, not all fuses are created equal & there appear to be several different ways of rating fuses.

[@KSSilenceAU]

It'd probably hold 13 Amps for 10's of Minutes. If a 10A fuse wont blow at a consistent load of 13A for hours on end, something is wrong, thats a 30% overload. I can understand 105% and maybe even 110% being able to hold all day long, but 130% well at that point your fuse is a possible hazard. Also, dont forget that engine bay temps can get pretty hot, meaning you essentially need to de-rate the fuse as it will take less current to blow it, vs "room temp". The large 125A ANL fuse protecting my Alternator will should 100% indefinitely, but 160A (about 28% overload) would blow it in under an hour from memory.

[@patrick103b]

Was always told at electrical college it takes twice the amps to blow a fuse instantly so 10= 20 and so on so don’t worry about the fuse

[@zx8401ztv]

Ahh the old winding breakdown, i renamed ohms law for my memory too :-D. A VCR made from PVC (V=Current * R) and (Power = V * Current) Rather old hat but worked for me.

[@VWWRENCHIE]

eriebo got it right!......The flightless KIWI bird of New Zealand has a long narrow bill which is mimicked in the shape of those pliers hence the name.

[@hawaiianf1504]

Great Video - Get some rest you gotta be tired as all get out.

[@repairrestoreresell2026]

Great Video! One consideration ...........You might want to set your test equipment on a service cart instead of on the engine to protect it from excessive heat & premature failure. Electronic test equipment aren't cheap & electronics don't like heat. Maybe it matters, maybe it don't. Sometimes they give you an ambient temperature range in the spec sheet. I hate replacing tools. Somebody is always picking your pockets. Very nice set of lead ends & widgets. Wish I didn't watch this video, cause now I gotta buy me a set a them widgets!

[@StirlingQShagnasty]

This is exactly what my 2007 Snotta is doing...and of course it chose to do it during the summer. time to break out the ohm meter.

[@jerzcnate]

Eric, you are one hell of a mechanic but the looks you make say you are not believable LOL .....

[@shaunsautorepairs5410]

But dont forget.. You maxd out at 14 amps... Thats 1.0 ohm resestance before it blew.... Good stuff eric.

[@Ermal193]

Great quick Diag, Eric Now i was thinking , judging from the fuse Amperage , the circuit should draw around 50 to 60 % of is max capacity, so 5 to 6 amps. A 7.5 amp would have been a safer choice by Hyundai.. Sorry for thinking...😁 Unless that coil amp draw goes up to 5 or 6 amps after breaking in.

[@markferraro5250]

nice job Fric O excellent scope capture

[@mrmagniffy]

Your the man without a doubt !!

[@johnmcdonald3720]

Awesome diag Eric O. Same issue with my wife's Altima not even 2 weeks ago, except I was not as confidant as you. Made the same call being that the compressor was 10 years old. Fingers were crossed, it worked out. My big question to my self was why? Just had to convinced my self that coils wear out like everything else. :)

[@Graham_Wideman]

Coils subject to mechanical vibration and heating do "wear out". The wear is from the coil wire's insulation wearing through, resulting in a short across part of the coil, which of course results in lower resistance, higher current, and more heating. So not wear directly from the intended purpose (as in a bearing) but rather as a side-effect of insufficient robustness against secondary effects.

[@2-old-Forthischet]

That's the reason I take my car to a pro and not the dealer. A long time ago, I had a Camaro and the AC wouldn't kick on so did the usual and checked the fuse which was the peak of my abilities. It wasn't that so took it to the dealer because they are conveniently located near home. They had the car for two days and said they couldn't find the problem. I retrieved the car and took it to a local radiator/AC shop. The owner of the shop had it diagnosed and repaired in two hours! It was a relay.

[@mikefedele4521]

Cool find I like your explanation it keeps it simple.

[@100SteveB]

That kind of over current capability on the 10amp fuse is normal, all of those fuses are designed to handle a lot more than their rated value. That allows for initial inrush current draw, which on some circuits could exceed the maximum current allowed under normal operating conditions. So quite normal for that type of fuse on a car. Things can be different in other applications - televisions and other such equipment, in those you will often find different types of fuse for different types of circuits, you will often find quick blow fuses that will blow very quickly once the rated amperage is reached.

[@JoelAutomotiveInaction]

nice job thanks for sharing , Eric the fuse blown base on amount on time of temperature(heat pops the fuse) that of course will count amps are above rating

[@jonkeau5155]

Yup, spot on! When I was a parts guy at an RV dealership we ordered quick and slow fuses for different applications

[@AmandaHugenkiss2915]

Over years I have seen fuses blow for no apparent reason. Install a new one and it's fine. I think they can get weak with thousands of cycles of in rush current

[@wickerman9569]

Had same problem on a Chevy uplander. Turns out it was antifreeze from a water pump leak that got in the connection. Thanks for the video 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@crazytiedyemom84]

Omg maybe ill get lucky n have a less expensive fix. Lol i commented i have exact issue on my 2018 hyundai elentra.

[@TheCowgirlNiamh]

You have a very smart belly there Eric! Must be all treats you feed it 😂

[@Basie0500]

Very informative. Love the Ohm's law analysis. I just purchased a 2008 Hyundai Sonata with no AC. I need a diagnosis before I take it to my mechanic. He good but I need to go to him with some info. Any thoughts???

[@MedicCamba]

Great video!

[@michaelowen1750]

For relatively Low ohm devices, its wiser to go off the percentage of difference.. new resistance is almost 3x what the old coil was....

[@elcheapo5302]

Sonata problem anymore!

[@SouthMainAuto]

Lol classic...

[@joeacfalle2380]

Awe, no wrench turning. Otherwise, great explanation on another example of what would cause a fuse to fry... and tool tip Thursday.

[@allanthomson4239]

thanx u answered my question, fuse was blowin after ten seconds now i know its the field ciol

[@Doplar12]

Great vid. Even I could understand it, mostly. Don't know who that handsome young man was standing there beside you, but considering he looks just like Mrs. O (thank God for that, eh Eric) I'd guess he is one of yours. God Bless.

[@benvandoeland9123]

Hi there from Australia... I enjoyed your video, and learned from it... By the way, a Kiwi is a New Zealand bird, and looks like the pliers you are using. That is most likely the reason for the name.... Ben.

[@MIXMASTERBJB1]

To comment on your theory of rpm of compressor clutch..I recently had a Cadillac Escalade that was tripping AC fuse same way. After the vehicle was at operating temperature it would start tripping the compressor fuse. Coincidentally the vehicle was erratically displaying "charging system alerts" on the dash. Never had voltage or battery problems though. To isolate the AC circuit issue from the "Dash" message I hard wired the compressor with an inline fuse. I found the compressor would run and make cold air all the way thru operating temperature, however once at operating temperature if we raised the rpm of the engine and got the compressor to a certain pressure and speed it would then trip the fuse. It would idle indefinitely and keep power but once to that raised rpm and making a specific psi on the gauge it would trip on demand every time. This led me to believe that speed of the coil does influence resistance of the circuit. In contrast to what you were saying.

[@malcolmyoung7866]

Great diagnosis.....seems many companies make those 'kiwi pliers....'...Might have to get me some...

[@denniswilkinson1118]

Excellent diag. Thanks!

[@scottmills6101]

Yes it's called Kiwi pliers because it resembles the Kiwi bird :)

[@baxrok2.]

Great stuff sir, I love this kind of diag. Thanks Dr. O!

[@ForgetU]

Should have done a quick time lapse on compressor/belt with voice over. Haha another great diagnostic video.

[@asuto120]

Great work ..thank you very much

[@samrugtiv3839]

Well done

[@BUTTERSOCRAZY]

Man i love yr vids and wish i could work for u. Most mechanics have no patience to teach so someone so they can follow in there footsteps.

[@klwthe3rd]

Butter Mcloven dude is your name really "McLoven"? Super kewl.

[@BUTTERSOCRAZY]

Kenneth White hahahaah no sir just a nickname but ive been tempted to legally change it hahahaah

[@nhra7110]

Awesome video!

[@dustenk2098]

Very hopeful thank you!!

[@notsure6304]

Ummm, where can I get some of those 10A fuses?!?! Well done sir, great video :)

[@samrugtiv3839]

Well done Eric. Sam

[@vantime2911]

Now i have to go back to school and learn Ohms law. ERIC you are such a pain. I hated school too. LOL

[@juvenalalvarez9535]

Good job good diagnostic too. I have a question.... on an car a/c I have my manometers gages 110 psi low port an 110 psi hight port. Both ports same presure with compresor running and engaged clutch running too... What thats mean a bad compressor inside? Thanks for share.

[@PuchMaxi]

At a load of 135% it can take a minimum of 0.750s and a maximum of 600s for a 10A blade fuse to break the current. Source: littelfuse_atof_datasheet.pdf

[@Paul1958R]

I was going to post that too. Thanks!

[@nigelstringfellow5187]

Somebody in NZ needs to send Eric a kiwi bird souvenir....lol.

[@Dirtyharry70585]

Bought me some kiwi from your amazon page..comes in two pack.

[@stephenmoody182]

You sure start those apprentices young!

[@armindapar]

Thankyou Eric to show this.thanyou much.

[@robertsalerno6033]

Good explanation mate :)

[@ted-b]

Nice one Eric. :)

[@rrmech11]

Nice job Eric