I Bought a Cheap Porsche 996 Turbo and It's Unfixable

Fook this car!! I've at my wits end with the 911 Turbo! I've never been so stumped and frustrated with a vehicle in my life.
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[@tbasmwmc]

There's no shame in having a pro take a look at it.

[@qc7767]

My thoughts too

[@bubberrand]

That’s what I would do. Matt has given it his all.

[@palikariena7292]

There’s no fun in that.

[@IM_8685]

​@@palikariena7292 well the thing is it is obviously something that is unaffected at atm pressure but opens up at little bit of pressure

[@vettesrule3170]

@@palikariena7292 You call what he's going through "fun"?? Sadist, so maybe YOU can fix it for him and achieve a higher level as a masochist...You know, for the FUN of it.

[@gibby3820]

I would cut your losses and drop the engine instead of fighting that tight bay week after week 🤷‍♂

[@marvinvisser5039]

My thoughts exactly

[@zascar]

Maybe this was his plan all along - I mean it's great content! :))

[@matt13ross]

I'm really trying to avoid that because it's going to be a dive into the rabbit hole. I just want to enjoy it stock ish for a while!

[@vvelazquez79]

Might be easier to just drop the engine to pressure test it again. You'll definitely be able to see exactly where the smoke is leaking from that way. Still pulling for you to get it fixed!

[@cvpuga]

agreed

[@nev997TT]

Boost leak aside, the larger throttle body and plenum may require the car to be tuned. Might be worth talking to one of the tuning shops in your area just to get their take on it as it could be resulting in the high idle. Not sure where in Maryland you are, but RPR Automotive and TPC Racing are the shops with which I’m familiar.

[@olivervaldes4223]

This comment right here is the answer. A second set of eyes would be nice and you get to support the local community.

[@matt13ross]

I will eventually get a tune, but the goal is having it running / driving correctly in it's stock ish form first.

[@sunnohh]

@@matt13ross might not be possible with physically different parts though, like to avoid the tune you need stock parts most likely, might be easier to just get a tune

[@zav8687]

Rpm in Hagerstown is cool too

[@OZBIE]

Check the wastegate actuator as mentioned below, they have a tendency to stick.

[@Harvy500]

Don't give up!! It's been a long journey and don't stop when you're so close to the end. I'd suggest & I know it's a lot of work, but drop the engine. Hook it up as close as possible if it was in the car then you can and smoke test it again. Good luck from Sunny England!!

[@matt13ross]

Trying to avoid an enjoy drop for now.

[@zascar]

Dude we are all here with you - Keep at it!! As others have said no shame in getting a pro to help diagnose. Dropping the engine would be a great set of videos for sure! And the relief and celebration we'll all have when you finally fix this thing will be amazing!

[@cliffkemp201]

Having as much fun as I am. I bought mine in 2018, upgraded a lot of stuff, even spent a decent amount on rebuilding the transmission (manual). Been in the shop ,mostly, since 2021. Had the upgraded stuff done late 2020. In the shop now. Put about 3k miles on it since 2021. The shop is still sorting it out and, we think it is possessed.... lol. 04 convertible.

[@dailydriven991]

I suspect the idle is a separate issue from the boost leak. You were hitting .6 bar and not even at redline so it was still climbing. Keep in mind these cars need to rev high. Mostly I think it would really benefit from a good tune. Especially with the new throttle body and putting the stock air box back in. Who knows what the previous owners did with it. P.S. another vote for dropping the motor if you’re going to keep chasing the boost leak. If you do that, might as well change the plugs/coils while you have it out and clean the map/maf sensors. That should smooth her out quite a bit.

[@Weidjeep]

Do not give up, this car has come a long way under your ownership. Take a break and turbo the E36 lol, and try to find a Porsche "shop" that will work with you to find the issues and see if it just needs a tune? Either way many people in the chat would be sad to not see this car 100% again. But you gotta do what you think is the best viable option for success. Great work and we are all excited to see what your next steps will be.

[@matt13ross]

No turbos on the E36! That car is simple and works well lol.

[@Smellyal8r]

That cup holder is from a 1 series bmw or z4. It’s weird shape is meant to hold a standard coffee mug with a handle.

[@robwilson7897]

I had a similar issue. Mine turned out the be the left side lower boot between the left intake manifold and the tube that connect to the right manifold. The hose band is tight but it slipped off the back where you cant see it. It will require some stretching and acrobatics to get to it. I watch your videos but dont read the comments. I have 2 996tt both I dropped the engines to do the coolant pipe pinning and replace aging rubber hoses. I highly recommend it. It not as hard as most people say. the only special tool I used was a lift table.

[@S2NAZ]

Well, I’ve seen this many times in my early years where owners try to make repairs, then take that walk of shame to a repair shop. I applaud you for your tenacity, don’t give up. You can try closing the throttle body butterfly to force the engine to draw more air through the leak, then take a small hose to your ear and start listening more accurately for the source of the leak. You can also try shooting a little starting fluid around the area you suspect might be leaking and see if the idle rises, that might help you narrow it down. Good Luck Matt!!

[@matt13ross]

I've tried the starting fluid, didn't change the idle, which was weird. I'm going to try a hose to my ear.

[@S2NAZ]

@@matt13ross I used to use a stethoscope probe with a longer hose attached to the end. Worked really well.

[@JT-162]

Your being frustrated and figuring it out is why I watch! Hang in there and don't give up.

[@moneymikeslickwill8749]

100% agree matt we rooting 4 u bro

[@Badmudaphucka]

Great car for the channel, but terrible for the hosts mental health it seems?

[@matt13ross]

Thanks guys!

[@Crime_pays]

You’re a sadist and an Machiavelli

[@B0RRAC0]

This channel reminds me of the Chris Sullivan channel. Just a guy in his garage wrenching on his car! Love it!!! 😁👍🏼

[@momchilmestchiev1583]

It’s a bmw x1 cupholder it’s the same mount and positions in my mom’s x1 there is even a spot in the armrest cubby to store it

[@TheSwampDonkey]

First thought, maybe try to put the stock throttle body and plenum back on, is that an option? If the car idles correctly with those being stock, as another poster said, possible a tune is needed to correct the airflow. However, the idle being high def makes me think of a vac leak somewhere. Have you tried an E-Gas reset? What about unplugging the MAF to see if anything changes? A bad MAF will throw off the airflow readings. If you unplug the MAF and it idles normal, you have a bad MAF. Also, check the oil cap and oil filler tube to see if they are cracked. Hope you are able to get it fixed.

[@matt13ross]

Nah the stock plenum broke. E gas reset? Unplugged the maf and it barely ran lol.

[@BG-ri8ww]

I’ll echo the crowd. You’ve put massive work into this. Well done, don’t give up. The old saying “you can’t see the wood for the trees” is valuable. A second set of eyes might cost a few bucks, but their experience might just say. “Hey all you needed to do was…..” Once it’s running all the frustration will quickly pass. Keep at it. We’re behind you on this. 😊

[@fd3s7]

OK, the big thing to think about with a high idle is air. The throttle body restricts air going to the engine. If the engine gets NO air, it would not run and would stall. If you give it just the right amount of air that will set the idle speed. Too much air and the idle will be too high. If you have a larger than stock throttle body and the ECU commands it to open a certain percentage, that may be letting more air in and setting that higher idle. Other possibility is a vacuum hose that is connected after the throttle body (between TB and engine) that has a check valve or something like that that is failed or backwards and letting more air in than should be getting there.

[@fd3s7]

Also don't give up! You are SO CLOSE! Analyze the situation, do testing, get evidence, move forward. You can do it!

[@keithvolner930]

I feel like you and markski should team up on this one! Common Deejay, help this brother out!

[@matt13ross]

Agreed!

[@jamesp5624]

Ok, not sure if it’s been said, but: 1) do a throttle position reset. Look up the procedure, it’s simple. 2) get an odb redder with an app that will show you the throttle position in real time. 3) Re-check the n75 valve and its connections 4) leave the battery unplugged overnight to reset the DME.

[@jamesp5624]

Honestly, I think you fixed the boost leak if it held air that long. You’re now fighting with throttle/DME/tune issues I think. Maybe going into limp mode without a code thrown.

[@matt13ross]

Awesome tips thanks!

[@chrisg2779]

I have a habit of forgetting how things go back together. Which is why I always take pictures of those thingamajigs before I take them apart. Saves me lots of time.

[@Airliner1964]

Matt, love your content and the awesome editing you do for your videos. Always looking forward to your next one! This 996TT was a hot mess when you got it, but now she's a definite looker. Don't give up on making it exactly how you want it. You are truly gifted in the work you do on these speed machines, but maybe it's time to have a Porsche Tech have a look at it? Either way, good luck.

[@OhYeahAboutThat]

That cup holder is awesome, but it's $169.00 before discount and still $152.10 after. That's a pretty steep price that may turn off a lot of people.

[@jmqwert]

Hmm when owning a porche 911?

[@Jagman2919]

You can afford owning a Porsche 😂

[@MrEggomylego]

That's Porsche tax for ya

[@ideabrickworks9043]

I just got the cubby, and the quality is excellent. I have found hat you get what you pay for with 3D printing. I will be ordering mine soon!

[@matt13ross]

Meh, I don't think the price is bad at all. It's a GREAT design and fitment is outstanding.

[@aa240sx]

don't give up. you put time and money into it. from all accounts, this is still repairable and it's not engine internals. you can do this!

[@matt13ross]

Thanks!

[@aslee143]

Watching this a few days after upload, and from reading the comments, here are some ideas you can try before dropping the engine. 1. In my experiences with turbo cars, the blow off valve/by pass valve/waste gate seems to be a big issue when it comes to boost leaks. 2. Trash tune. See if you can retune to stock tune. 3. Maybe new maf?

[@matt13ross]

Stock tune!

[@carlodomingo5504]

God bless you for not cussing out a storm. At least not on video. I would be! I usually have no interest in watching a video that is not related to my non turbo 996 but your video editing and pleasant demeanor makes me keep coming back!

[@matt13ross]

Awesome to hear thanks! And trust me I curse behind the scenes plenty lol.

[@CRE8TEDbyGod]

My hope is that you find the fixes needed. I have really enjoyed the journey and really love watching all the videos. Thanks for taking the time to take us all along. :)

[@dubzstylerc9580]

Okay, so it could be one of two things maybe the idle control valve unit is faulty , but then, saying that you would get a correlation code, for that, or it may be a case of doing a complete relearn for all of the systems, so it’s all reset to 0, especially the throttle body, now I’m pretty sure you have got the equipment to reset the throttle body values. I know on VW‘s you can do a manual reset by just put in your foot on the throttle when the car is turned off., still keeping your foot on the throttle. Turn the car on but do not start hold for 10 seconds, then release the throttle completely take your foot off of it and then turn the car off.

[@matt13ross]

Solid suggestions, I tried a few of them, thanks!

[@plus790]

The yellow console is great and that Etsy guy seems to make good quality 3D printed stuff--that cup holder is outstanding! Not a fan of the parking brake condom though. For the leak, use a borescope camera to get back in there!

[@matt13ross]

Renndition parts are legit!

[@jouleskelvin]

Don't get discouraged. It's an amazing car and you've really brought it back. We're learning with you, too. So, take a break and go back to it next week. We'll be watching. 👍🏁

[@matt13ross]

I appreciate that!

[@MrRedkid91]

check the charge pipe/hoses from the turbos to the the intercoolers. I've had them pop off and my idle was having similar behavior

[@WayApp]

Wishing you all the best in finding creative solutions and turning it into a remarkable ride! 🏎✨

[@gouldnj]

You’re doing this right Matt, but WHERE you introduce the smoke is the important part when chasing boost leaks. It could be on the hot side, cold side, recirc/blow off. You need to be methodical and use diagrams of the systems. Good luck. PS-Have you gotten the tow hook plug installed in the front bumper yet?!

[@matt13ross]

No tow hook plug yet lol.

[@Ali-xg2cc]

I Love this channel because damn bro it's so relatable!! If anyone is a car guy, you know the feels 🤣You'll figure it out bro, keep pushing

[@matt13ross]

Thank you!

[@adambrand1305]

The plastic intake runner on the drivers side is also known to rub through / crack and create a leak.

[@slic1one]

I once had issues with idle keeping at 2k rpm and even going up by itself just due to a faulty new (!) MAF sensor. I would assume you'll need to run an adaptation or something for the TB, VAG cars are known to be very particular about the airflow

[@MrFunnyDad2024]

Fought an old 911E w/ Mech. Fuel Injection, became a exercise in SM. LOL. But country repair job - always works. Accidentally drop some matches. Southern Lighting... LOL

[@pietervanommen]

engine out seems to be only way to figure out

[@matt13ross]

I hope not

[@e1kaiser482]

Have you consider that the boost pressure sensor is bad. also could be that these recirculation valves are broken. best at this point i think that is drop the engine and replace every gasket and oring, and yeah there check the sensor and valves Its pretty amazing how this car still fight you this hard. i hope so much that finally runs well again

[@brandonmulford5524]

Time to sponsor an Indy Porsche Mechanic who wouldn't mind working for a discount. Hell, try linking up with Omega Auto and the Car Wizard that would be worth a few views for sure!

[@joncamilleri2172]

Keep at it, you are so close. Agree with other comments that there is no shame in getting a pro to take a look at it.

[@Tetriiix]

Matt! There is nothing bad to reach an “expert” on the matter!! You have done way more than me on my car!! Next step is basically dropping the engine!!

[@thepacketnarc7634]

Hey Matt. You know there’s a few rigid vacuum lines back behind the plenum and running near the left and right sleeves ? Make very sure you haven’t cracked or broken off any of those rigid lines. They are fragile like Pocky sticks.

[@matt13ross]

I'll check

[@alexcaragea6049]

Cmon man. Cracked head, injector seals, head gasket, tb gasket, waste gates leak, turbo leak, crankcase ventilation leak

[@matt13ross]

That's a lot of variables.

[@oasisalek]

I have noticed you have tilted your motor down by taking out the rear mounts a couple of times to give you better access. I have a feeling by doing that you might have hairline cracked the plastic manifold on the front left side of the motor right along the firewall. There are long plastic mounts on it and they can crack at the base if you tilt the motor down without unbolting the stuff mounted to it. Worth a look, this happen to me years ago and was very hard to find, I pressure tested and smoked…. The smoke only came out when the engine was under load, that’s when the crack opened up bigger…. My idle was at between 2500 and 3000 rpm. Hope this helps! Mike Salek

[@matt13ross]

I sure hope not!

[@themuz3]

I called IPD when i couldn't get my plenum to fit (the crossmember was 180 backward from factory). They told me the larger throttle bodies don't run as well for daily use.

[@KemDIY]

Your tenacity in problem solving is truly inspiring.

[@Berti_00]

Every time a video gets dropped, i get excited. You got this, bro

[@BrandonErina1972]

I would suggest taking the engine all the way and fix any trouble areas and anything that could be updated for the future. That way you fix everything when it’s out

[@bernardthefourth]

You need a durametric to do some logs and see what's going on. I'd hire Markski to read the logs and get some advice.

[@MacM702]

More Air.... you need to reset the Air Sensor. He calculates with old memories. Cut the Batterie for 5 Minutes and after start the engine without reving it. It will need maybe 30 seconds and thats it...

[@danielsplayhouse3804]

If it has an idle control valve on the throttle body check it first!!

[@BleezyD]

You got this, Matt!!! Were all pulling for ya.

[@jonathanownsyou]

That cup holder I'm almost certainly sure is from a mid 2000's BMW 6 series. My Dad had a 645Ci and it had that cup holder. Not sure if it was used in anything else.

[@zachbitzer8467]

Not sure how these are setup, but back in the b5 s4 days when we used to pressure test them, we had to make sure any pcv hose off the intake/ypipe was also plugged. If not, the air is just going to escape into the crankcase. It should be able to hold the pressure you feed it and slowly bleed off.

[@milanulrich]

not sure if you changed the throttle body, as I haven't seen all the episodes, but if you did that, it means the more air is able to get in even on the 1° (closed valve) position and car is trying to compensate with more fuel to get the gas/air right. Thus higher idle rpm and lower boost as well. Did you tried original throttle body?

[@janichols13]

I agree that this is a good place to start. Might also want to do a throttle body adaptation to help make sure it's actually getting true readings. Also be good to hook a scanner up and check the fuel trims. Although it probably needs another couple of drives to adapt.

[@matt13ross]

Throttle body re learn is on the list!

[@jorgebaqs7370]

just subscribed, I know that feeling brother Porsches can be tricky. Do not give up!

[@matt13ross]

Thanks for the sub!

[@craftingmat5425]

No, Mat! Dont give up! I think this car has not seen a major service for 10 years... main reason most likely. But secondly: You have a larger trhottle installed -> I think that thing needs an urgent setup and remap. Also would not drive too far and too hard with it as is - it may run lean? Go for a setup and remap.

[@jaimermb]

By this time i would drop the engine a check everything. working in that little window of trunk it´s bad!

[@cycoracing]

Looking at the last shot of the engine bay in the video, I think you have the diverter valves in backwards. As well high idle is usually caused by a vacuum/air leak. Google 996 turbo diverter valve installation and try a throttle body adaptation/reset.

[@matt13ross]

Yup, I've got those flipped around now.

[@Euuuhhhful]

These cupholders have been used in bmw x1 (an probably other lines) from 2010 onwards

[@craigsmith1354]

You are seeing your idle high .it could be an internal air leak behind the throttle .this could be caused by engine breather . It could also be the plenum that you installed. I'm not sure if you did a throttle body adaption to reset it . Reach out to Ross tech vcds to go through the readiness settings to verify your repairs .Audis porches vws and all their cars have this capability try it out . I feel your pain though 😢.

[@shr00m7]

YOU'RE SO CLOSE! And selfishly, I need to know what the problem is. I know this might go against the ethos of your channel, but have you thought about taking it to a dealer or independent Porsche shop just to get a diagnosis? It may be quicker and a good learning experience, especially if you can find a shop that will walk you through the diagnosis (maybe in exchange for some free internet publicity)? Then you can just fix it yourself in your garage. Anyways, I am pulling for you and the Porsche!

[@Badmudaphucka]

Or get it diagnosed & then just pretend like you found it yourself when you shoot the video & fix it.

[@matt13ross]

I may have a shop diagnose, but I'd like to do the fix. The diagnosing is killing me!

[@ClioSport2016v]

Holder is from BMW

[@charha01]

At some point you may need to drop the motor. I've never done it, but I've talked to several people that have an they all say it's not bad since these cars are designed to be race cars, and so pulling the engine is something that is planned and designed for. Once you have it out, you can fully see everything and I'm betting you have some hose or connection cracked or broken that you just can't see with the engine in. It would also be a perfect time to do the AOS replacement and maybe even the coolant tank as those are PITA to do with the engine in. Good luck man... I feel your pain.

[@MrJbipes]

I have an '05 Boxster, 987. The layout is somewhat similar on the top of the engine. I had replaced my starter, which is on top of the engine. I had to remove the plenums that fed the intakes. Loosened the large diameter hose clamps each side. (same as your car) to remove the plenum. After buttoning it all up, a week later I got very rough starts when cold. This went on for a few months, tried everything. It turned out, one of the hose clamps was askew on the bottom, where I could not see it, giving a small vacuum leak. Another Porsche 996 guy told me to check it with a mirror under the plenum. Sure enuf, that was the problem. The off-kilter hose clamp on the edge of the rubber boot was just enough to open it for a leak. It's been working great now for 3 months. Hope this helps. look here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/g3-VYWmZarxkipI

[@JF-4444]

Throttle body bearings often leak once they get old. Seals break down and throttle shaft wears. Try testing it by itself by macgyvering something together.

[@milanulrich]

true, but not that much. Depends on construction. Usually there is the bushing in the plug side, and the plug it self is seal. Than the sensor side usually has the bearing where the small leak could be thru the bearing lips into the throttle body. If the sensor has gasket, the leak will be small as well. If I remeber, leakage limit thru the bore is 20ml/h and for the throttle body-sensor is 5ml/h. But it's few year when I was working in production.

[@JF-4444]

@@milanulrich I guess maybe the problem is worse on the 930 model that I have?

[@milanulrich]

@@JF-4444 it's hard to say. Worst case scenario is the oil thru the shaft and bearing to the inside, as this makes abrasive paste with plastic gear and motor inside and destroys the gear. Throttle is very similar in construction for all the manufacturers. I have no experience with VW/Porsche. Only the Toyota, Renault/Nissan and Volvo. But for the leakage...usual life span for throttle should be around the 150k if there is not much of the contamination inside, or more. You will be able to check the insides easily when sensor is hold by clips. Small screwdriver into the clip and push it out. Then you can remove the sensor. If there is the gasket, it will be in the sensor and even if it fall out, you can easily push it back. Then the middle gear between the motor gear and spring/gear on shaft can fell out. So open in horizontal position only. If you can't see any wear, contamination, oil etc, you should be fine with leakage thru the shaft/bearing. Some cheaper construction have the bushing in the sensor side as well and these can leak more of course. But! Intake with throttle do not hold vacuum. It's air inside to the motor. ECU is measuring the air/gas ratio and telling to throttle how much open it should be. I mean in this case I'm leaning more to communication problem with the units as the program in ECU can't compensate for differences in air volume to gas.

[@matt13ross]

Well my throttle body is brand new.

[@IanClos3]

You've done so much by yourself and the car has been brought back from crap to outstanding! Can't beat yourself up as the computer systems in porsches are finicky as I am learned myself on my 02 996. I purposely avoid stock turbo setups because of the issues and I am not yet at that stage to learn about them myself. BUT, I would say it couldn't hurt, nor do I think would anyone hold it against you if you took it to a local specialist, not a dealer obviously, to see what you may have missed. Sometimes they have the expensive tool that can connect to the obd2 and read everything and every sensor and will lead to a faster diagnostic or they may just have seen this before. That would be my suggestion if you'd like to reward yourself and take a break but also solve the issue so you can enjoy the car. Good Luck man! As always I love the content, love my poorsche shirt, and hope you get it figured out!

[@matt13ross]

Thank you!!!

[@myd00m]

Very good video, that cup holder is very similar to the one in my BMW 1 Series coupe.

[@petesmith3306]

Stick with it Matt. Youre very close now. Personally, Id double check that the throttle body and inlet manifold bolts are the right length and and are properly torqued down and have it properly set up by a pro then enjoy the car. You've done everything right so far and deserve to enjoy it over the summer. The car seems like a perfect candidate to have a dodgy 'tune' from a previous owner. If youre not sure of its history, thats another good reason to get it properly set up by somebody who knows what they're doing

[@matt13ross]

No tune on the car. When I bought it, it was at .7 bar all the time with intake and exhaust.

[@petesmith3306]

Thats probably good news for you, Matt. Good luck with it all.

[@PompeyMatt17]

24:08 I went "whoa!".. as in Europe, well.. UK.. black pumps are diesel 😀

[@Rippers-TV]

Maybe take it to a specialist for diagnostics, and then do the repair yourself so you can still get content out of it? You could probably film at the shop if you talk to them about it ahead of time.

[@matt13ross]

That's my plan if I can't fix it.

[@markbooysen9412]

Dude, WTF is up with yanks and cup holders. I'm convinced that yank car manufacturers start design on new car models with a cup holder first and design the rest of the car around the cup holder 😂😂😂

[@N911GT2]

In Germany it's not done to eat or drink while driving, they only put them there for the yanks.

[@matt13ross]

I hate having no cup holders lol

[@TheReefaddict]

Sounds like the stepper motor on the TB is FUBAR.

[@dariencrawley8841]

Im from Maryland as well would love to show you my SLK when its done

[@user-rj2le6hj3m]

Matt try giving Sam at BY Design a call. He is a good guy and may be able to help you. He has done hundreds of these 911 turbos and a bigger supporter of the community.

[@martinhood7166]

Self confidence is the feeling you get just before you fully understand the situation.

[@mythos000000025]

Wish I could afford it..still gotta put together my fd3s project...keep it up man, the car looks nice (not a yellow fan personally but it does look good)...you'll find its probably something small along with a new tune. Turbo cars(especially German ones) require programming for EVERYTHING...I've got an F30 awd bmw...yeah you change something you gotta reprogram. Somethings are fine if your not changing anything mechanical other than say exhaust or charge pipes....but bigger bov....depending like to atmosphere, tune, bigger throttlebody, tune, bigger injectors, tune, etc, etc

[@challengerjetdriver]

Sticky waste gate lubricate with mouse milk, yeah that’s how we call it. Keep the faith you are getting there 💪

[@FueledBy.Passion]

People asking, why not just take it to a pro? Because if he did that, there would be no video content, no views, no advertising, and no paycheck from KZbin 😉

[@matt13ross]

Absolutely correct!

[@natetrombley9488]

I would put money that you need a throttle body adaptation. I've never seen a VAG car that can relearn a throttle body. When I upgraded my s5 throttle body I needed use the adaptation software from my tuner so the car would know what's going on.

[@matt13ross]

Going to try that!

[@Petrol_fix]

Could be one of the intake boots under the throttle body

[@thesearch9048]

Add me as another suggesting to drop the engine to get it all figured out. You are close to getting it all sorted out! Looking forward to the next vid!

[@tompreciado863]

LS V8 it is! Check out the stay tuned channel, Tony is swapping a V8 in one.

[@matt13ross]

Haha, tempting!

[@miketurco5282]

Keep your head up Matt many of us have been there. A break will do you good.

[@atrain132]

It's totally fixable my man. Waited a couple of days to post a comment, but I seriously think ( without actually looking at it in person ) it has to do with the throttle body. You could hear air coming from around there before, then re-torqued with washers and had no air. Now it's idling high. Probably needs more miles, and time to relearn. Unless you have a pretty good scan tool, to manually adjust the idle.

[@matt13ross]

Going to check throttle body next!

[@MrRedkid91]

also check the wastegates on the turbos maybe possible that its broken or stuck

[@seatschris]

Dropping motor would be easier to work on trust me on that one,as mentioned below already check wastegate actuator and car might need tuning and bolt ons may be past Ecu self learning capacity. If you do really sell the car I’d be interested 😊

[@YogisGarage]

I have the same smoke machine. Love it. Gonna check out those cup holders. Now that i'm driving my two 911's I need something to hold my stuff! Did you forget that you have a positive post in the engine bay so you can run your smoker there? I did... once. 13:01 Did I just see the tripod on your gimbal go up down by itself? The computer should tell you have a massive vacuum leak. It may not throw a code right away.

[@Badmudaphucka]

Pull off the pipes, hoses & plenum, etc, block the ports & test if they hold pressure on the bench (either with smoke or in a tote of water) to rule them out one by one. If there’s anything you can’t access as part of the intake / vacuum system I’d assume it’s all to blame & replace it in one hit with a motor drop. Have you looked at the turbo’s? Checked the waste gates are staying shut while boosting? (Just pull them off & send them away for a refresh with billet wheels & drop the motor so you can see what you’re dealing with on the leak & fix whatever other goodies you find).

[@atlzhp6motorsport]

Man, contact Marek Marski, he will get you up and running in no time. And he can tune your car too.

[@matt13ross]

This!

[@cyprusdaedalus]

Has your water temp always sat that high above 180? Seems high... should be a tick over 180 even in hot weather sitting still maybe slightly higher. But for 80 degree-ish weather moving should be sitting just over 180 fwiw. Also - don't get discouraged. I also bought a basket case 996TT 12 years ago and 12 years later having replaced most of the entire car with new and replaced parts it's finally working correctly. You just have about 11 years to go but you'll get there!

[@matt13ross]

I’ll have to look at exactly what it’s at. Perhaps a tick above 180.

[@Jagman2919]

Drop the engine…… Smoke test that way You got this man!

[@AaronBesson]

You maybe should have done the smoke test with the throttle body off. You would have eliminated that and also had more room. Also you need to get the car tuned for the plenum and other mods. Hate to say it. But a visit to a Porsche mechanic shop for a 250-500 buck inspection could have quickly diagnosed everything and saved you lots of time fixing it yourself.

[@MrZ676]

Just a thought, disconnect the MAF and see how it behaves? Could be a MAF issue.

[@matt13ross]

New MAF, I disconnected it and it barely ran lol.

[@MrZ676]

@@matt13ross Trying to think with you. But you got it fixed !

[@stephenrohrbacher5919]

In the words of Rob Schneider, “YOU CAN DO IT”.

[@matt13ross]

Haha

[@BMW2002M10]

Cupholder looks like one from BMW, specifically the e63/64 gen 6 series

[@1dskells]

Dude, how much air are you blasting into that thing? It's made to hold less than 20 psi. It sounds like you're blasting it with significantly more than that. If that's the case you're probably blasting leaks into it. Love what you're doing though man. You give me inspiration to not burn my bucket of bolts to the ground 😬

[@matt13ross]

It won’t even hold 20psi lol.

[@reloop7691]

you should get 0.7 bar at around 6000rpm when it's producing max power. I get max boost at around that in my 996 turbo S.

[@matt13ross]

I think it should come on sooner than that.