I didn't know I had the problem, so I'm really glad they told me.

[@riba2233]

Loyal Moses said this printer was perfect. Then after we found out about this issue he never spoke about it, and when I asked him if he still thinks it's perfect he banned me from his channel lol

[@NuttiestNut]

He's known for being a shill. He removes a ton of comments

[@bp8__163]

Money talks… Crazy that there are content creators not holding Qidi responsible. The culture of rushing machines out to market when they aren’t complete needs to stop.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

It is the reason that I wanted to make this video, it doesn't necessarily show the printer or the company being bad, to me it shows some growing pains and the company's commitment to their customers and of course keeping a good reputation. Most if not all companies have done something like this. Personally I don't have an issue with the replacement.. it might be the easiest replacement I've ever done, but I know that they'll do better and their future printers will be better for it. I still have it on my bench and it's not going anywhere anytime soon. I am adding insulation right now, I think every enclosed printer should be insulated, I just need to be careful that the motors run cool enough. I'll have a comparison video coming soon between this printer and the X1C as well. Ideally I'd have a K2 also, but I don't have one... Thanks for the comment!

[@kazolar]

This is why he is not a real reviewer.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

There were a few minor issues with this printer when I did a review, but overall it was pretty impressive, and I still think that, but they ran into this issue, so I thought it was worth sharing. It is important to show the full picture, even though a video like this probably won't be too popular.

[@dlgloege]

Thank you for making a straight forward video that shows the problem and how to correct it. There were some "influencers" that felt it was their responsibility to totally trash QIDI TECH and this printer. I bought mine after the issue was reveled to the KZbin 3D printing community and I'm glad I didn't listen to the other guys. I would have missed out on a great printer. I can't wait until the multi material unit is available to purchase. I guess those other guys feel that if they are honest about the value of this printer that they won't be loved by Bambu. I say screw them! I pay for my printers and I want the most value for my money not the most popular brand!

[@ppekala]

With this kind of printer they should include proper SSR module from Omron or other reputable manufacturer.

[@stevewells20]

Eh this was a design issue, not a supplier issue. They designed for 220v; the numbers still work for 110v, but jusssssst barely. So on paper it was fine, but in reality components are not always built to spec, so *some* systems will be over the limits for their SSR (like mine was)

[@Chris-14all]

​@@stevewells20hopefully for 230V 😉 220V ist outdated since 30 or more years now.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Yeah, I guess it changed in the 1980s. I've been in construction for most of my life and up until just a few years ago I was still calling it 110, or 220. Here in my home, I am 120V, and 220V.

[@stevewells20]

@@Chris-14all I fat-fingered the number, but I assume most people knew what I meant...

[@Chris-14all]

@@stevewells20 yes, you are right. I Just saw an electronic grill which my Mom still uses and IT has a Power Plug which IS Not common since I can remember and at least has a Label of 220V. IT was a present to my parents Wedding in 1971. Some Things never Change and Things you think Last Long, are outdated If you unpack them. 🤗 Sorry for upper/lower Case Letters. German Keyboard setting 🤷🏼‍♀️

[@petermoore9504]

With such a serious safety issue Qidi should have issued a recall rather than relying on the customer to do the repairs.

[@Condamine123456]

Yeah to me that's not good enough if for some reason someone finds a way to zap themselves and dies qidi will be up for a massive lawsuit then they will have to recall the printer you shouldn't have to do the repair yourself especially if it's ac current which I'm not expert but I'm pretty sure that's more dangerous than dc but I'm not a electrician so I don't know exactly

[@mikestewart4752]

It’s the China way. You think their cars would be any different?

[@23lkjdfjsdlfj]

A recall is a terrible idea for me. I can still use the printer while I'm waiting for the part - which I can easily and quickly replace myself.

[@WillPower311]

​​@@23lkjdfjsdlfjnah, the ought to send you a brand new machine and issue a recall take back the old machines fix them in house and then sell them as refurbished. That's what you get if you put out poor quality material goods. Or do a better job making sure this won't happen, stop cutting corners and being cheap garbage.

[@riba2233]

​@@mikestewart4752 yes they would, and plenty of non Chinese companies have recalls so your argument is absolutely worthless

[@geforce5591]

I bought the printer well aware of the issues and went with the omron style ssr as a replacement with a secondary low-high failsafe relay to tie the chamber fan to the heater for extra protection.

[@WillPower311]

Don't make it seem like they went out of their way to tell you, they are only telling you because people called them out and they had to take action otherwise they didn't do anything.😊

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I can't say I had the full story, but it's good to get some other opinions on the matter. When something goes wrong, there should be an immediate investigation, prove/disproving the issues and then come up with a solution. I made this video because I wanted there to be an awareness of the problem, if anyone was having trouble or was concerned with the install, it is a reference, and to show what is being done about the problem... an update. In my opinion, when a company has issues like this and cares about their reputation, they will learn and do better.. I guess we will need to wait and see what happens. Personally the PLUS4 is one of my two top printers that I use, and it will soon become my #1 when I can insulate it so that it heats up a bit quicker and will also be a bit more energy efficient for those longer high temp prints. Thanks for taking the time to share your perspective.

[@802Garage]

That thermistor is rated to 200C. I wish people wouldn't talk without even doing a minute of research.

[@802Garage]

Thanks for help making people aware, giving advice on how to do the work, and testing the solution. The quality of the prints coming from my Plus4 are insane. I swapped out my chamber heater power supply board, though my old one was still functioning, and now I can get back to some cool engineering type materials. :)

[@jc84com]

The SSR used in voron and ratrig builds seems like a better method. Standard off the shelf parts.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I'll take a look, it might be worth doing a follow up video to compare the replacement with some other off-the-shelf options. Thanks for that!

[@802Garage]

Community has already well documented this mod. :)

[@kristian6087]

@@NeedItMakeIton the qidi facbook and reddit theres som people thats made a mod for panasonic and omron ssrs

[@mikemaloney2622]

Thanks for the followup. I like your deep dives into the problem and the solution. Keep up the good work and good luck on your way to 100K.

[@3DPUK-TECH-CHANNEL]

Thanks for this update

[@NeedItMakeIt]

No problem, I insulated the electronics compartment against the chamber wall and there is quite a big difference not only in heating time initially but in the temperature of area for the boards. It looks like there is room to add a bit more insulation on the right and left sides, maybe 5mm, my only issue now is what to do with the glass door and top panels, should I leave them?

[@3DPUK-TECH-CHANNEL]

@NeedItMakeIt I guess it's a case of personal choice, guess if your doing it go full hog lol. I have this coming to the studio to review soon, slightly concerned I'm getting a duff too but I am UK based on 230v

[@NeedItMakeIt]

@@3DPUK-TECH-CHANNEL Yeah, I'd send them an email and check, I don't have all of the data on it and it is possible that your machine will have newer parts as well. Mine is one of the oldest. I had it early so that I could test it out for a while first... too bad I didn't find this issue sooner. Now that I have a thermal camera, I would definitely open any printer up and monitor it with the camera.

[@DanielQuites]

I have insulated my X-max 3 with great results. It became super quiet and more energy efficient. Looks nice too.

[@Chris-14all]

I prefer this printer over all others as far as I have seen of it. Even I will not buy it - it is too expenive for me - I print only a few things per month. But it supports lots of materials, is fast and is engineered quite good (strong materials, insulated chamber). And is not that loud as others. And is not a fanboy product as this other one I can not remember 😉 Hopefully Qidi keeps on that support quality and learns for the next generation of their printers. A competition in the market is alsways good!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

The Q1 is still a top performer and it is quite a bit cheaper, it's certainly more bare-bones than this one, but it's still going strong for me. For the price, this printer is really tough to beat, and we'll see what it looks like when they release their version of the AMS.

[@peterle987]

80° on that heatsink (transistor) is still pretty high!

[@23lkjdfjsdlfj]

The chamber temp was set to 65, so only having 80 on the heatsink = good design.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I guess that's probably in part because I had the bed temp set to 0. With a 65C chamber, the bed would likely be set to 100C min. I like to show the extremes, but I could have done a better job reiterating that part. Thanks for pointing it out!

[@peterle987]

@@NeedItMakeIt you did a pretty well job, but that spare part feels still a bit close to the limits. I would install a small fan on a custom cover to prevent any issue. Qidi's job isnt that great on that part.

[@helixxharpell]

My Plus4 was running ASA prints for well over 300 hrs when nobody was home and while we slept! 😮 I filed a complaint with the USCPSC back in October. The complaint went through even though Qidi sent out the replacement boards and offered an extended 1 yr warranty. Wish Qidi had initiated a full blown recall. I will be doing some long-term testing and will post my findings on Reddit & Discord. *Hillbilly Engineer*

[@reyalPRON]

sir.. you should stop responding to every negative comment. ppl will disagree and vent on comments. it makes you look bad when you take their comment seriously sir. you will gain from ignoring them :) hope you all have as a wonderful day as i have had.

[@Harry_64]

Good Video, I've seen a few videos on this issue and your was by far the best of them all. I like that you realize that it's normal for some components to run hot while in use. I also was considering adding insulation so it will be interesting to see your results. On a side note I purchaces a small orothscope (borescope) from amazon aa while back for looking into hard to see places, it cames in handy when loking for the release clip.

[@nlkatz]

I was also wondering if more insulation can be added. When you do so it might be a good idea to recheck the electronics temperatures to make sure they haven't increased excessively.

[@DK-vx1zc]

Thanks for this great detailed video. Would love to see the follow up video!

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I just insulated the chamber to separate it from the electronics. I used 10mm thick EVA foam, which I cut with my laser and... I should have done it in 2 pieces because the fit was quite tight, but aside from that, it made a 13 degree difference inside the electronics area and also allowed the chamber and bed to heat quicker. I'll have to get some detailed info, but it seems like a good and cheap option. I just don't know what to do with the glass door and top panels, I don't want to over-complicate things.

[@Eidar1212]

How do you feel overall with the +4 as im in a 220v zone that problem will not affect me so other then this how has it been long time use and that is so few that talk about

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I'd contact QIDI and ask them. Personally if you're up to the task of changing the board, I'd replace it. They have apparently released a firmware update to help with this, but I don't know if it would impact the 220/240V setups. There is quite a difference in Current between them, I was pulling 3.6A, you'd be somewhere around 1.78A. I guess another way to do it would be to run it for a bit and then pop the back panel off and have a look, you'd be able to smell any melting as well if there was a problem.

[@802Garage]

There have been quite literally zero reported issues in 230V regions. The Q1 Pro uses the same board and has also never had an issue.

[@3dPrintingMillennial]

Why didn't they go with an Omron?

[@NeedItMakeIt]

It's a good question, from what I've heard, they used similar tech in their other printers, but this printer is larger and with a 400W heater. I don't have the exact details on it, but when powered by 120V, the A requirement is higher than expected, somewhere around 3.7A, as opposed to 1/2 that for a 240V setup.

[@802Garage]

Cost. Almost always the answer. They were already using this board in the Q1 Pro with no issues and thought with the chamber heater limited by firmware it would be suitable.

[@3dPrintingMillennial]

@@802Garage thank you

[@3dPrintingMillennial]

@@NeedItMakeIt thank you for responding. Being a cheapskate really messed up a crucial opportunity at threatening BBL

[@NeedItMakeIt]

​@@3dPrintingMillennial It is tough to compete with BBL, they have the Apple approach, which is proven to work. People will pay more for something that looks nicer and also performs, they've had some issues themselves don't get me wrong, but their printers perform well, they look good and they seem to last with very little maintenance. You don't often see them come up for sale either. The X1C/P1S are smaller, and don't have a heated chamber, not to mention that the nozzle temps are quite a bit lower as well, so it really depends on what you're trying to print. There is quite a price difference as well of course. As much as I like Bambu Printers, they are a bit pricey for my tastes, the PLUS 4 after this issue is corrected is probably the best bang-for-the-buck. Again it really depends on what you're printing, if you don't need the higher temps or the larger size, the Bambu's are a great option.

[@etiennehogue8780]

I noticed smoke and discovered the heater board. I contacted them and they sent me new parts free of charge 2 day express shipping. I don't think recall/return appropriate because the printer is heavy and large unless your not that technically inclined. QIDI have rolled out a update that reduced voltage on the circuit to prevent over heating. I think QIDI is handling it well. even with this issue, X plus 4 is My favorite printer by far. its just that good.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

So you had some smoke too, that's good to know. Ideally they've move to a different type of relay in the future. I'll have to check to see if I'm running the newest firmware as well. If they haven't already, they should force the update. Thanks for your thoughts on this and for sharing your experience with the PLUS 4, I don't have the ability to print color with it, otherwise I'd have no need to use the X1C at all. I prefer it to the X1C as well... it does need some more insulation though.

[@Betterstartnow]

Really glad Qidi corrected the issue, was waiting and watching to see how they would handle it. I do think they make a great 3d printer.

[@andyb7754]

Quick couple questions. Do you still have the Q1 Pro? If so, did you have any problems with the camera after the latest firmware update (V4.4.24)? My camera app just quit working after the update and customer service was NO help at all (4 emails). I had great customer support until this little glitch. Thank you for any reply. Keep up the videos (that's why I subscribed and became a patron member a long while ago). I bought 2 Q1 Pro's after your review but won't be buying anything new until they fix this little problem. Thank you again.

[@TylerTroglen]

i updated to 4.4.24 when it released and haven't had any camera issues.

[@elmexicanoforlive]

Did you have the original Qidi that came out or the newer version? My older version’s camera stopped working properly but it was before the update. I think the first versions had a couple of flaws.

[@TylerTroglen]

@@elmexicanoforlive I have V1 without built in ethernet and no tabs on the left and right of my bed.

[@elmexicanoforlive]

@@TylerTroglen Yeah that is the one that the camera died. It might be the camera, try it on another printer and see if it work. I have one V1 and I am ordering the upgraded parts from Qidi. On their website they sell the side loader frame. I also bought an updated camera from them. The V1 isn’t as good as the V2z

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I do, but my brother has it right now, he's been using it because we've been working on some 3D printed projects together. I can certainly find out for you! The Q1 pro is still going strong for us, we just compared some prints from it to the X1C, and I would argue that the prints were better.

[@MrWaalkman]

First off, I love my QIDI X-MAX3, and I will probably get a '4' once it does multiple material. That said, QIDI really stepped into it on this one. The original board, 'H-2JRMK1.0' was replaced with the new and improved 'H-2JRMK1.0". Same damn part number. WTF?!? So, which board do you have? It's easy to tell, if you have a toroid coil (it looks like a donut) then it's a Mark II MK1. As silly as that sounds. Come on QIDI, there's a reason why we use (different) revision numbers. The next thing is the transformer on the Mark I MK1 sure looks like it is copper-clad iron and not actual copper. I wonder if a magnet will stick to it? :) Would somebody please check? Thanks! You might want to check out the Mark II MK1 while you are at it. ;> This isn't a problem in itself, but one has to wonder if the designer forgot to derate the transformer if it did use iron windings. Regardless, it's clear that the transformer was the problem. Even with an improperly sized transformer, the board might have survived had the duty cycle of the SSR been something lower than the frequency that only dogs can hear. Okay, not *that* bad, but at least two orders of magnitude higher than it ought to have been. The reason for this is that there's a price to be paid when you transition (switch) a SSR off-to-on or on-to-off. There's a formula for figuring out what the switching loss power (identified as Psw) is, and it is multiplied by the switching frequency. Slow the switching frequency down by 100 (the two orders of magnitude previously mentioned) and you will reduce the Psw by 100. Does that mean that you can cycle your SSR at a rated of once per second and be fine? No, because the next firmware update will probably reset things back to the original speed. Change out the SSR. The parts layout for both Mark-ie boards was slap-dash. The transformer is going to need some spacing between it and the parts around it. And the boundary distance should be part of the documentation that comes with the transformer. So why was it laid out "Cheek to jowl" on the board? There was plenty of room to allow the transformer to get some air circulation. A stand-alone SSR 'brick' such as an Omron (a SSR that actually is solid-state, and not some loose-knit collection of solid-state parts. Or I suppose one that is a bit more solid-y than other solid-state devices) would have been a much saner choice. Keep in mind that there are counterfeit SSRs out there (most of them appear to be DC SSRs), but a good brand name purchased from a reputable supplier should mitigate those concerns. Looking at the temps on the board, the replacement is running hotter than I care for. I would go with an over sized SSR brick (use a 20 amps or so SSR. It will still be cheaper than a 5 amp SSR along with a heatsink and a fan installed on it to keep it cool). And lower the switching frequency.

[@ttonAb2]

This should have been tested before the printer went to market. A cheaper printer isn't worth your house burning down.

[@802Garage]

It was tested. Obviously. Just not enough.

[@ttonAb2]

@802Garage not properly.

[@JohnJones-oy3md]

Fun fact - the word 'Qidi' is Mandarin for 'arson'.

[@WillPower311]

They took over a month to address it after it was publicly known and they should take all the machines back and fix them themselves or don't send out garbage machines.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I guess this is a 2nd comment from you. I've worked for companies where we had major issues and it's not always as simple. I'm sure they could have done better and probably regret not acting quicker, but personally since I have some similar experiences, I don't think it was handed poorly.

[@Pumpkinwaffle]

This is beyond ridiculous. Expecting untrained public to change parts hooked up to mains is straight up dangerous, could lead to deadly hasards if the instructions aren't followed, or the wires secured properly.

[@freedomofmotion]

Used to be standard fair replacing plugs in the UK it's not a big deal.

[@Pumpkinwaffle]

@@freedomofmotion A plug dosen't spend hours vibrating at various frequencies through. Printers are marketing as magic machines that make toys at the press of a button. Sure a maker or anyone handy will be able to replace this part easily. But it's not the case for all users. And unless they're shipping those boards to anyone who purchased a machines, there will be plenty in the wild that are still a fire hasard. What's likely to happen is being able to claim a replacement part, which only a fraction of users actually will do... This ordeal really is not a good look on QIDI.

[@23lkjdfjsdlfj]

As shown in the video they offer a full refund or replacement for folks that aren't comfortable replacing the electronics themselves.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

If someone doesn't want to do it, they don't have to, they have options listed in their announcement. It might not be an option for everyone, I understand your point, and QIDI does as well.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Correct they've adjusted the firmware, they've also been shipping these boards to anyone with the printer (I guess it would be V1) I don't know when the issue was corrected at the factory. You're right, it is certainly not a good look on them, but if they do it right, they'll learn and be better for it. Their customers will still be happy because they know that QIDI stands behind their products. All 3D printer companies have gone through these growing pains, and if they want to compete, they need to make a good product and keep their customers happy. We'll have to wait and see!

[@TheOneAndOnlySatan]

Maybe not work on the electrical stuff on the printer while its on ?

[@TylerTroglen]

I was thinking the same thing... lets find this tiny spot to release the back panel while the machine is on....

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I was afraid that people wouldn't watch the entire video, so to be very clear I said "If it isn't obvious, please do not do what I am doing, the printer is on and you could electrocute yourself". Unfortunately in order to show the correct values on the Thermal camera, I didn't see any other option. Turning the printer off would instantaneously cause those components to begin to cool.

[@802Garage]

@@NeedItMakeIt Not to mention you obviously turned it off while replacing the components. Armchair warriors. I hope they never open the hood of their car while it's running either. Could lose a hand to the accessory belt after all.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

@@802Garage LOL, get sucked right in. No matter what you say or do, there will always be "That Guy". After the third try, I found it way easier to reach in without the tool and feel for the tab inside. Hopefully there was some value in making a video like this, I learned quite a bit and it provide some good information to know whether it was worthwhile insulating it... and I think it is definitely worth it, it might even be worthwhile on any enclosed printer. I just wish they'd provide a bit of space for it, most of them are really tight on the inside. Adding it on the outside would look pretty nasty I think. Thanks for taking a moment out of your busy life to write a comment 802 I really appreciate it!

[@JeffreyMiller-p6g]

Qidi Tech is my current goto 3d printer company. Love my X-mazx 3 and looking forward to the next generation of the Max. I personally hope they either make it with two nozzles or makeitreal easy to quickly change out Nozzles. The multi filament systems work great for color change or similar temp materials, but will clog the Qidi nozzle if used on too vastly different temperature filaments/

[@TheNathan724]

Bot

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Nice, thanks for sharing that. They have a history of making sure that their customers are taken care of, I'm pretty confident that they'll keep going this way. It will cost them short-term, but they'll continue to be one of the best and most affordable printers out there. It's amazing to me when I open this printer up to see that.

[@Crappy.Consumer.Reports]

“Still my go to printer even after using it for months”. This guy and this industry is peaking consumerism.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

It is the truth, but take it however you like. Like I said, there is more to it than just the printer, they are a good company, they're pushing to do more and it is the most affordable printer for the price hands down. I don't plan on trying to change your mind, people often make statements like you've done without asking a single question, it's a good indication of whether you're open to the idea that you might have it wrong. Have a good one.

[@802Garage]

Huh? It's a fast, accurate, high quality print, heated chamber printer, with a high temp nozzle. Why wouldn't it be a go to for many materials? Like he is literally showing a major flaw with the printer in this video. Edit: I think I misunderstood your original comment. My bad. I thought you were saying peak "corporatism" if you will, or as if he was shilling for Qidi. Seems the popular thing to do in every comment section now is accuse creators of shilling for every company them mention, so I was primed for that. I agree it's kinda wild people will be looking for the "next best thing" in 3D printing in mere months.

[@Arek_R.]

Wtf? That thing is a definitive fire hazard. There should be a mass recall with government involvement. 120C is still way too much. "robust printer" my ass

[@kimmotoivanen]

Not a great design to embed scary hot parts in plastic shroud without active fan cooling 🙄

[@NeedItMakeIt]

I'm curious why do you think that? These temperatures are nowhere close to auto-ignition temps, we extrude filament at far higher temperatures. Some components on the boards like the Thermistors are meant to work with changes in temperatures, that is their purpose, in this case with the NTC, the hotter they get, the less resistance they offer... I'm interested in your thoughts on this.

[@Arek_R.]

@@NeedItMakeIt No electronics are supposed to run at more than 70C. If I understand correctly they are just switching the mains powered chamber heater with this module, so you need an SSR, that's something you buy off the shelf and it doesn't generate much heat unless you drive kW of power and I assume heaters in that printer are going to be just few hundred watt. Also just because one component can handle over 100C, it doesn't mean the components around it can. Typical circuit boards are rated only to like 110-120C

[@NeedItMakeIt]

@@Arek_R. That's right, it is a 400W heater. So you think that the job can be easily done with something else off the shelf? Can you tell me exactly which part? I don't mind doing a follow up. The issue of course is that it needs to be compatible with the signal from the main board, but maybe it can still be easily done. Lots of electrical components run hotter than 70C, but I agree that keeping the temps as low as possible is best. Please also keep in mind that I had the bed turned off, so the heater was working for 3 hours with no assistance, this could happen but is highly unusual, I like to run tests under more extreme conditions, which is why I decided to test it this way.

[@riba2233]

​@@Arek_R. Buddy if you don't have a clue about what you are talking just don't, ok?

[@EnnTomi1]

this is exactly why you dont ride the hype wave...especially stuff like this from that country.........let it cook for couple month.....then you can safely risk your house......

[@3707_here]

Just get a Prusa and don’t worry about it lol

[@lukasmatzinger]

Those Prusa printers with heated chamber are the best! Bargain price of $10k for a 300mm delta printer, everybody should have 3 of them at home.

[@phasesecuritytechnology6573]

There's always one

[@3707_here]

1200€ for a printer that’s safe or 12.000€ for your burnt-down house.

[@riba2233]

Yeah prusa just has different issues that you have to fix lol

[@riba2233]

@@3707_here which one is 1200?

[@sjtonic]

No component in a properly designed circuit should reach 120 C. It's not a fix, it's a band aid.

[@802Garage]

Incorrect. People keep making blanket statements like this without proper knowledge. Even the stepper drivers are rated for 165C, for example. The thermistor which gets hottest on the board now is rated to 200C. There are many components which can tolerate high temperatures for years.

[@sjtonic]

@@802Garage Please show an example of a consumer grade stepper driver rated for 165C Regarding "normal 125C operation": Quote: "The ideal operating temperature for FR4 sheets is between -40°C to 130°C. Within this temperature range, FR4 sheets maintain their mechanical and electrical properties, making them suitable for various electrical applications. However, at temperatures above 130°C, FR4 sheets may start to experience thermal degradation." And the author 'missed' to measure the temperature of the triac on the board. Based on the thermal image it is at least the same as the thermistor or higher than that. Could please provide a name of a consumer grade triac rated to work at 125C+? Just to save you some time: Tj listed in the datasheets is not the temperature of the package.

[@802Garage]

​@@sjtonic I mean okay if I have to hold your hand. The Plus 4 uses TMC2240 drivers. From the data sheet for the product, the thermal protection temperature threshold is 165C. Obviously that's not the ideal operating temperature, but it makes the point. Ideal operating range is listed up to 125C, which is still higher than the 120C you incorrectly stated. The thermistor on the board is rated for 200C as I said, which you chose to ignore. Obviously if that component was going to melt the PCB it wouldn't even really be an option eh? You're vastly over simplifying and making blanket statements in an area you aren't that knowledgeable on. Even a quick search could have told you "The typical operating temperature range of a thermistor is −55 °C to +150 °C, though some glass-body thermistors have a maximal operating temperature of +300 °C." Yes, a typical FR4 sheet is rated to around 130C. However there are many formulas. A lot of standard sheets are rated to 140C before there would be any possible issues, 150C and 170C high temp formulas are also prevalent. Regardless, the component hitting 120C is not even touching the FR4 sheet nor embedded in it of course, and you're neglecting the heat dissipation properties of the material as well. I could quote you numerous sources here too, but on all of the SSR failures we have seen, the PCB has not even appeared to show damage, only components above it. Do you know the exact formula of the circuit board used here? Have you measured the surface of it with a thermal probe? Do you actually have any reason to suspect it is overheating? I didn't think so. The triac is a BTA41-1000BW which is rated to 125C operating temperature and 150C max junction temperature. I personally measured mine with a thermal camera during operation as well and it never went much over 80C. You can't draw much of a conclusion from his thermal image because he likely also wasn't set to the high temperature viewing range, given the lack of variation in appearance over a certain temperature. I would highly doubt it was over 100C and either way it's within spec. Haven't been any issues with the new board yet, even with higher software power settings up to 0.7 like the original firmware, though I wouldn't recommend using that. There are a lot of people who have been monitoring and analyzing this issue for a while now. Jumping to conclusions and making incorrect blanket statements doesn't help anyone.

[@sjtonic]

@@802Garage 1/ Your statement: Even the stepper drivers are rated for 165C, for example Manufacturer datasheet: Operation temperature: -40°C to 125°C Oops! 2/ Hint: a thermistor used as inrush current limiter and placed on a PCB and a thermistor used as a temperature sensor in a hotend are not the same. 3/ FR4 is rated to 130C. Seeing the shortcuts made by QIDI I would not be surprised that they used a low quality FR4 board that could not withstand even 130C. Skipped all your BS without a single source. 4/ I do trust you with your "measurements". No. 5/ Just one simple question: Have you ever been paid by QIDI or their associates or been provided with any of their products for free or with a discount?

[@802Garage]

@@sjtonic 1. You didn't read the data sheet. Shutdown doesn't happen until 165C. 125C is the max optimal. Which is still beyond 120C and I quite literally answered "Please show an example of a consumer grade stepper driver rated for 165C" which I was correct. Oops! 2. What you said doesn't negate anything I said. You have a fundamental misunderstanding here as well. The specific thermistor on this board is rated to 200C as I have said multiple times. 3. Once again I literally quoted numerous sources to you. There are FR4 blends rated to 170C and beyond. This is a single search away. I cannot give you links as KZbin would delete the comment. 4. I don't care what you trust because you think you can make a better determination from a guess based on a video of a thermal camera you don't understand. I have more data than you. 5. I received my Plus4 from Qidi for free as a tester. My agreement is that I am allowed to say anything I want or nothing. I have absolutely zero requirements from Qidi and I could have even just sold it upon receipt. I have spent at this point tens or over 100 hours determining issues with the printer and helping people in the community. All this has absolutely nothing to do with circuit board ratings, component ratings, or data sheets. If you want to pretend facts don't matter because I got a free printer, that's your problem, not mine. 6. I have been critical of Qidi in numerous comments as well as in the community and directly to them since this issues was discovered. I told them they needed to address it publicly, I told them they needed to send out notices, I told them they could get in trouble with the CPSC, I told them this was harmful to their reputation and that they should be handling it more quickly and with more transparency, and I also told them when previous solutions were inadequate. I have made all of those statements publicly as well. 7. The difference between you and I is that you have a senseless vendetta and I have no issue stating that Qidi messed this up. They did not handle the situation as well as they could have and I hope they don't repeat their mistakes with the next printer. They did not test this aspect of the printer enough and there are other flaws with the printer as well. It's also a great printer for the money aside from those flaws. It's still not the printer I recommend to everyone depending on their needs. 8. You ignored half of what I said because I am factually correct and all you want to do is argue, not actually come to reasonable conclusions. When people make incorrect statements, I often respond, regardless of company or topic. Your original statement was incorrect. Period.

[@chemicalcorrosion]

This is something that the consumer should NEVER have to do. Poor design, poor testing, poor QA. If it’s not a Bambu, then I’m not buying it.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

A consumer doesn't need to do this, they have options listed in their announcement. Hey if you like Bambu, go for it, Bambu has also had issues and was forced to do a complete recall on their A1s. Bambu has done a great job with their printers, I can't take anything away from them, they've also created an entire Ecosystem too. I'm looking forward to seeing what their next printer looks like! QIDI is really competing with the X1E but at a fraction of the cost, and to keep the costs down, they've had to decide where to save money, and in this case, they made the wrong decision, I'm confident that they'll recover, as long as they take care of their customers. The PLUS 4 is quite a bit more capable than the X1C IMO, it doesn't have color/multi-mat yet, so it is lacking in that area, so we'll see what happens when they release their version of the AMS. Thanks for your thoughts.

[@802Garage]

Funny enough this board is nearly identical to the bed heater board in a Bambu printer. ;)

[@stew675]

So you must have been absolutely rabid about the A1 cable issue then, right? Piss poor design and QA. If it's a BambuLab then I'm definitely not buying it! See, it all sounds just as stupid when it's not what you want to hear about your favorite brand, huh?

[@chemicalcorrosion]

🤦🏻‍♂️🤣😂

[@TheNadOby]

Interesting, may it be that the distance should be shorter and probably pressure on the displacement should be applied to slow the reaction. Also moving a little in the direction of the messer might be helpful as well. Not a Messer practitioner looking at it from the longsword perspective

[@woodcat7180]

Get your self in ER immediately, you are having a stroke!

[@TheNadOby]

@woodcat7180 hahaha i was answering another vid when it jumped to the next one. No need fo ER yet

[@TheNadOby]

@@woodcat7180 it was about fighting with swords, as you can guess

[@woodcat7180]

@@TheNadOby Good to know 🙂. Fare well.

[@NeedItMakeIt]

Haha, I was lost, glad I read the comments below!