I drove BYD Atto 3 until the battery died

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[@aXimo]

I love it how you open the hood to made the situation even worse even thou it’s an electric car and it doesn’t make any sense 😂

[@nadnerb2k]

Nice follow up ☺️ I commented about the 4% to 0% being likely battery calibration, I think you've comprehensively proved that's what happened. It might be an idea for BYD (and any others) to trigger a "calibrate battery" notice whenever a set period of time has gone by without the battery going below a certain percentage. Thanks for this; very useful info if I ever end up with a flat Atto 😊 Have read on owners forums that if you leave the car off for a while, it'll go further when you restart it. Not something I really would want to test but your multiple consecutive restarts would seem to suggest this might be possible.

[@hadtopicausername]

Even better if the car's software could just handle it automatically.

[@nadnerb2k]

@@hadtopicausername I'm sure it would. Given that this is a common challenge for LFP batteries in general, it appears that software alone isn't enough. Software can only deal with what inputs it gets.

[@fishndive1961]

@@nadnerb2k Teslas have LFP batteries and they don't have this problem. BYD is trying to make the range look great by being too optimistic. They need to add some bottom buffer into their display and make a lot more noise before the car just switches off in the middle of the road.

[@Arpedk]

Great to see everything checks out on the Atto, but damn drivers need to know 0 km is 0 km, that is a very small buffer :)

[@himekawafuka]

Thanks to you, I laughed while watching KZbin for the first time in a long time. Thank you🤣

[@B.O.Z.5]

10:32 love your sense of humor

[@jarsmoreira]

at around 3:30 minutes in the video, I believe that on BYD's, the red and blue line on the power meter is always there. Also I think that one should try to keep the meter in the blue line, in order to considered "economic" driving, and not an indicator of power limit.

[@lexkranen9201]

Hey Bjorn, I watch your videos for several years now and sparked my interest in everything EV related. Thanks to you I work as a Product Owner at Heliox now. Thank you for your awesome content and remember to always ABC: Always Be Curious!

[@jeffsykes5190]

I recently drove my BYD Atto 3 to 0% (by accident) and was able to continue in the restricted mode (max 70km/h) for an additional 5km while battery was at 0% / 0km. So my experience a little different to this. Not sure why

[@stephenclay6852]

Good test and interesting to see what happens when you force it down to empty. But nobody should do this with your own car not if you wish to conserve your battery life anyway.

[@bavariancarenthusiast2722]

One day....Björn will build a car with an Ecoflow battery back :) Awesome review as always!

[@TechChannel1000]

@Bjørn Nyland - could you please review BYD Seal ?? interested in battery charging speed, any overheating issues and if it really deliver 600km range - Single motor long range version.

[@malakudi]

Lifepo4 (LFP) discharge cut-off voltage should be 2.5V. It is weird it goes even lower than 2V.

[@celeron55]

It's completely safe to take LFP down to 2.0V. 1.5V is probably the point at which you might need to replace the battery. For NCA/NCM/whatever 2.5V is the point at which you may need to replace the battery.

[@freas8520]

Why is the temperature difference in the battry so high? Is it air or liquid cooled?

[@dxutube]

You're not alone, we're all watching.

[@tobimai4843]

Lowest Cell voltage 2.1 WTF they are murdering these cells

[@MidlandCruiser]

Dear Bjorn. love your vieos, watched a lot of them. I currently own a Hyundai Ioniq facelift 38.3Kwh, and unfortunately you didn't make this sort of zero test with that car, you did it with the 28 though. I just thought I ask if it would be possible somehow to do it, if you can get your hand on one. I didn't dare to go below 10% with it for now. Do you know by any chance if it would just drop to zero and stop or is there a bottom buffer to drive after it hits zero? Thanks if you take the time to answer....keep up the great work you do for the EV community worldwide..

[@CampGareth]

If you have a charger somewhere safe you can test this yourself by running the battery down low then using the heating while stationary to go down to 0%.

[@timberthewolf733]

"freaking Chinese bugman" 😂

[@Blasterxp]

I think it is really usefull you can drive a flat battery for a couple of 100meters, so you can drive it up a flatbed truck, of trailer. Better this, then briked.

[@Blasterxp]

Grammar error somewhere

[@josephhealey8207]

Same thing happened to me it when from 10% to 0% within 2 kilometres after I did the first restart it travelled 1 kilometres on low power I tried to u turn to reach a garage with charger an it stopped in the middle of a 4 lane road and the brakes locked on and it would not restart for about 10 minutes after 10 minutes it travel other 30 metres.I won’t go below 20% in the future

[@LoTeZz]

I drove my atto 3 today and had 20 % and 56 km left. It was - 21 Celsius outside and it went to safe mode. Did it so that so early because on the cold or what happend? I’m have only had it for 4 days

[@Dom-bn1ru]

So how was it?

[@ramdynebix]

Bjorn, have you been impacted by the bad weather?

[@bjornnyland]

Depends what you mean by "impacted".

[@erezarbel]

How do you change odometer view to trip a and b??

[@bjornnyland]

Button on the stalk

[@netshaman9918]

lol, the question is: Can you PUSH it manually when died? ^^

[@tridrean]

❤❤❤

[@TomA-qy6jz]

It is hillarious that an EV had to low power to stop...

[@sadlogic]

It gets thumbs up even though it ran out from 4% to 0 in seconds?

[@bjornnyland]

Because it ididn't do it here?

[@georgepelton5645]

@@bjornnyland In this test only the HVAC load was used from 4% to vehicle shutdown. That was about 4 kW (IIRC, I need to watch again). When driving the load would be higher 10-20 kW depending on speed and grade. At the higher load the lowest cell voltage will drop below the minimum allowed (2.0 V) at higher SOC. This is the main reason you didn't get shutdown at 4%, IMO. I agree the battery SOC calibration may have improved, but I believe the lower 4 kW load is the main reason.

[@tridruankham2657]

♥♥♥

[@roberts.wilson1848]

is this lfp battery?

[@andrew7455]

Yep.

[@directxxxx71]

BYD is all in into LFP battery technology and manufacturing

[@bjornjohansson9900]

As I have ordered this car I am happy to see it actually scored high in one of your tests, great work as always :D

[@janetshabani-qu7hq]

Anyone trying to charge a byd atto 3 with byd atto 3 v2l dont use the manufacturer charge cable use another chargeing cable

[@zarbonida]

Why?

[@gvaley]

It seems to be a Chinese thing, because my Chinese phone exhibits the same behaviour. It turns off at 3%. Having had European, Japanese, American, and Korean phones prior to that, I was quite surprised the first time.

[@jimgraham6722]

According to the manual, the Atto3 has 1KWhr of protected capacity to avoid catastrophic battery damage. Below 20% strong acceleration and use of accessories should be minimised. I plan recharge before 15%, but once dipped down to 8%. No problems.

[@Infinion]

1kwh below 2V? seems a little hard to believe but okay

[@jimgraham6722]

@@Infinion The battery has a nominal 61KWhr. Only 60WHr is usable. 1KWhr is reserved to protect the battery. At that point the battery voltage would likely be about 380V. Any further discharge could flatten and reverse charge one or more cells, possibly destroying them. So that level of discharge is prohibited.

[@Fredric169]

Bjorn, this is not good for the battery at all. Degredation will increase significantly.

[@watataenjoyer]

9:40

[@SripalTAD]

Byd atto 3 is reasonably priced in Asian countries.

[@B.O.Z.5]

Only there. In Europe price starts at ~45k Euros…that‘s not reasonable for what you get, unfortunately

[@nadnerb2k]

​@@B.O.Z.5wow. It's $49,000-$52,000 Australian dollars down under, that's 31,000 Euro. Surely the difference can't all be shipping?

[@B.O.Z.5]

@@nadnerb2k No, it's not just shipping. BYD has adjusted the prices to the current structure in e.g. Germany (that was the price I mentioned). And this is currently also done by other Chinese manufacturers such as NIO, for example. This is also the biggest point of criticism here in Germany and it is doubted whether they can gain market access with this. (For us here) unknown manufacturers without an image, who then also call up quite high prices. Not a good way in my opinion.

[@bjornnyland]

Norway: BYD Atto 3 60 kWh: 430k NOK Tesla Model Y RWD 60 kWh: 430k NOK

[@s.kxx1956]

Doesnt mean its good

[@3kRandomChannel]

shiiieet man