I Enlarged My First Grid Pattern! | The Mock-Up Process for a 1600s Doublet [CC]

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I've been on a mission to try out new techniques and enlarging a grid pattern was next on the list! I battled my dyscalculia and came out on top, and then spent the rest of the week turning the standardised pattern into something that actually fitted me!
This is the next stage in preparation for my version of Aziraphale's Tudor costume, but I have something else waiting in the wings for it first...
For those who wish to see more, you can find me on twitter / dolthalion and Instagram www.instagram....
Project links:
Playlist: • Project Announcement f...
Trunk-Hose structure: • Shaping the Figure, 15...
Mentioned in the video:
The Tudor Tailor by Ninya Mikhaila and Jane Malcolm-Davies www.etsy.com/l...
Music:
Music from filmmusic.io
"Winter Chimes" by Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
License: CC BY (creativecommons...)
Dungeons And Dragons by Alexander Nakarada
Link: filmmusic.io/s...
License: filmmusic.io/s...
Music from filmmusic.io
"Kathrin" by Sascha Ende (www.sascha-end...)
License: CC BY (creativecommons...)

[@catzkeet4860]

I'm 57 and when I was at school dyslexia hadn't been heard of/wasn't believed to be real, so having the same kind of issue except with numbers really wasnt taken seriously, but whenever people asked why I was so bad at math, I'd just say, numbers are hard to read, kinda like dyslexia but with numbers... I used to call myself a numerical dyslexic... I didn't even know it was a thing til I was in my 30's! Can I just say it's reassuring to hear so many people saying they too have this issue. Thanks for the video Gilbert, it's nice to see the whole process, impediments included.

[@judithcollins3744]

The coat looks so smart. You should use that pattern many times for historical events, and maybe in some modern fabrics for every day. It fit you perfectly. GREAT job! You could start a comeback in men's fashions. xx

[@linr8260]

I have to say, I admire the patience necessary to do four mockups. Good luck on the finished versions!

[@CarynOMahony]

Team Dyscalculia, unite! You've now made me less scared to try enlarging patterns myself. Thank you for that. And well done on your doublet mock up, it's looking really promising.

[@lilalicat32]

It looks really good. The fit is good and you could totally rock a waistcoat with a fancy shirt or t shirt.

[@HandyHelons]

I’m very very excited to see the projects!!! I’m having a go at trousers and shorts because I was super anxious about them but since I watched your hand sewing videos I feel braver because if I can’t do the curves on the machine, I can now hand sew them!!

[@autumn7143]

Your process makes so much more since than those others use. I’m dyslexic and dysgraphic so your process rings with the fact that I tend to do everything backwards first. Thank you so much for this.

[@charlythompson9281]

That mock up went so much easier than the trunk hose! You’ll be done this next piece in a fraction of the time, which just be really exciting for you!

[@amyjanefrater1447]

Aziraphale Schmaziraphale! You should definitely use this pattern to make a history-bound jacket AND a waistcoat for yourself. You look so smart. Reminds me of the Beatles in their Nehru jackets. This video is chock-full of interesting things, from an good overall approach to using a grid pattern, to lots of little bits. Bravo.

[@HandyHelons]

You are so brave! I have dyslexia and I’m just in awe of how you approached this and that you were brave enough to share with us. Thank you! It looks AMAZING!!!!

[@annafatima]

Looks really good and the difference with skirts and shoulder adjustment were so fun to see! Thanks for every minute.

[@TheEconWoman]

You so could pull it off! I love the idea of using this pattern for history bounding. Nice job all around.

[@rachelboersma-plug9482]

I never realised that "lengthen or shorten here" marks were actually a form of slash & spread. Now I'm a whole lot more comfortable with the concept.

[@playme129]

I noticed the upside down technique. But who's to say which is up and which is down? Great job on pattern copying and adjustments! I think you're tutorial is the most useful I've seen, ever, for altering a pattern. I need to return to making some of my own clothes so that they fit and are the fabrics I want. My problem being that I am two sizes larger in the bottom half than the top half; dresses are especially difficult. Thanks for a wonderful video, Gilbert.

[@mrs.knecro7044]

I’m quite late on this but I think something I’ve been putting off trying is sewing with knits. I finally told my self we are going to do it! Got some fabric soft elastic and a pattern to make some underwear and then spur of the moment project I messed up my sewing machine and my shop is closed until the new year. 🤦‍♀️ Up side I guess I’ve pre washed all my fabric and am going to make a copy of my pattern so that if I want a different style I can just look at the original. I hope you and your wife had a lovely holiday and have an amazing new year ❤️

[@MaryanneNZ]

It's HAWT!! these need to come back into fashion! I feel you could benefit from a 1cm spread of both front and backs, just a split and spread, to add 2cm into front and back, to release the horizontal creasing, although I totally concede that this will probably go away in a more giving wool,with more weight!

[@jackiejames4551]

It looks great. I think you could wear any thing you want to wear. You are more than fancy enough. I transpose numbers all the time, and really have to work hard not to, as I used to be a bookkeeper.

[@ragnkja]

Who says you’re not fancy enough to pull off a waistcoat? Also, are you going to use the mock-up as a lining for one of the doublet projects?

[@judithcollins3744]

I agree, you are plenty handsome enough to pull off a waistcoat, or anything else you choose to wear. Go for it! I wish more men looked so smart in current everyday wear.

[@CraftyInTheory]

I'm avoiding dying with Indigo. I have been spoiled with Modern dyes, so trying this historical route is intimidating.

[@CraftyInTheory]

It may have taken some help...but I FINALLY used indigo. There is a learning curve there!

[@canucknancy4257]

Great video. Your explanations make it so easy to follow. I'm glad that it turned out so wonderfully. Thanks for sharing Take care.

[@rachelboersma-plug9482]

You could definitely rock a waistcoat, maybe with your Tudor shirt (or you could do a pirate one). I had my first go at the dreaded sway back adjustment this week.

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

I've used the grid technique with a custom-sized grid to enlarge a corset pattern (which fit in the dimension I measured but the waist to bust proportions were all wrong so yay for mockups. And thanks for showing your whole mockup orocedure, it's hard to know where to start fixing things when you're only just getting started with fitting!! Mockup looks great! "Builder's Bum" made me giggle, we call it "plumber's butt" on this side of the pond. I hear you about torso length, my husband and I don't have to change the car seat depending on who's driving, just the mirrors. He stands 6" taller than me, and he sits 8" taller than me but our hips are the same height... "not fancy enough to pull it off" oh boy does that one resonate. My historybounding is pretty much making housewear and undergarments in the medieval rectangles-and-gores style, I have one dress made (and it's now too warm to wear it) and am planning a pinafore for summer wear, we'll see how that goes, cause usually it's cargo pants with pockets full of tools and tshirt with holes in it and/or paint on it... I have been wanting to try some embroidery. Right now I have plans to do some chain stitch decorating of a shirt I made because that's how the one I copied the pattern from was decorated, but I'm stil deciding on the design, and I'd like to do some embroidery details on some of my handmade garments but I'm still trying to figure out which designs and which garments because if I'm going to do embroidery on a medieval garment I'd like the embroidery to match the time period of the garment and I've been spotty in my research because I've had other things going on...

[@paulotoole4950]

Stitch T shirt, cool. Dyslexics cannot read real clocks either. I want a digital pocket watch.

[@lucycannon6732]

Well done, Dolthalion, it looks great on you! Folks....stay through the end ;D

[@bekytg9393]

Yes give it ago making a waistcoat, I think it would be excellent for historybounding.... I too have a problem drafting patterns from books. Currently drafting Janet Arnold's patterns. I get my husband to look over my work. I too have difficulties with grid patterns.

[@selkiemorien9006]

It looks great so far! :D I tried the digital version of grading up once before and had the same reaction as you did to the hand grading. For me I think doing it by hand is the easier route. I struggle with with figuring out percentages way more than seeing something coming together on paper in front of me... I'm going to catch up on all of your videos now and be excited about the progress after the fact XD

[@AshLG]

***Doublet envy intensifies***

[@Dolthalion]

I know you have exactly the same pattern, so there's an easy solution!

[@rd6203]

🎵Look at me bum, look at me bum...🎵 😁 Personally, I am terrified of every technique that I haven't tried yet. 😬

[@sgussy]

Fantastic . I liked the video. Nice to see you back

[@MonaSkovJensen]

This was so great to watch! Maybe I should try scale up a pattern?

[@nanettebromley8843]

Thank you. I learned a lot from this video. I am now going to try sizing up a gridded pattern. And its going to take some adjusting :-)

[@TudorositiesbyMaureen]

Hello also a fellow dyscalculia person, the order of numbers are especially an issue. My employment deals with them all the time and had to find ways to avoid making mistakes. Were you going to make your last mock-up into a wearable mock up? It fit you quite nicely, the hard work tweaking the pattern paid off. The color did go well with the lighter colors in the pattern of the trunk hose, at least it did on film.

[@ragnkja]

If the fabric does not lend itself to that, maybe it could be put to use as a lining for one of the projects it’s a mock-up for?

[@Dolthalion]

The fabric is really cheap polyester, but I've kept all of the pieces of all the various mock ups to use them for smaller pieces of mock ups, or once they're no use for that any more, to use as cleaning rags! I normally keep scraps for embroidering on, but this fabric isn't worth using for that.

[@deannastevens1217]

Very Nicely Done!!!

[@aShadeBolder]

you're totally fancy enough to pull off the history bounding waistcoat.

[@gigglepantsiii9350]

I have a few projects that have been waiting to done, but lacking a dedicated sewing space means that it's an extra hassle to even get started, and unless I can dedicate the whole day to sewing it often feels like setting everything up isn't worth it. Why not wear the clothing you worked so hard on? Even if it's just at home or to the grocery store, make everyday moments a special occasion. Or just use the pattern to make yourself a less fancy waistcoat

[@coreygilles847]

Just trying to get my nerve up to try and make an apron dress

[@mikajlod25]

Really nice, you got some talent, I've tried the patterns straight from the book, and it did not go smooth, did not get past the mock-up part :(

[@mariebray9831]

I've got dyslexia and dyscalculia too, but love math. Do you use colours in your grid to make counting easier. The minimum would be 4 black lines and then one red line. So the red lines are 5, 10, 15, 20. I don't try to count the squares I write 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 etc. on the paper, then check I didn't miss a number or do a number twice, works for me, but maybe that's just me.

[@rd6203]

🖤🖤🖤

[@judithcollins3744]

Clever solve.

[@Dolthalion]

That's a really clever solution! I normally mark off every ten with a different mark, because then I don't have to swap out pens/pencils (because I'm lazy!)

[@miriamsargent3428]

Hi thank you for your video very interesting I was tested for Dyslexia when I was 52, and I am now 72. I now have a word for getting left a right and numbers muddled up Dyscalculiathank you for that. I have the Tudor Taylor book being interested in all things Tudor. I am making a coife for my granddaughter but it turned out very small. I have looked through the whole book and know where doe's it say whether the grids are inches or centimeters can somebody help me with this please thank you.